Glue Gun Wax Sticks? The 127 Latest Answer

Tips for using sealing wax

Although a seal can be made right on the spot, we strongly recommend, especially if you are making a lot of seals, that you make them on a baking sheet, aluminum foil, or wax paper first. The seals can then be easily removed and glued in the desired places with standard glue.

That way you don’t ruin your envelope if the seal doesn’t come out to your satisfaction. This also allows you to make the sigils in advance and makes it easy to add ribbons or other embellishments to the final location under the sigil. With wax seals, practice makes perfect! Don’t worry if you ruin a seal or waste some wax. Unsatisfactory seals or wax residue can be re-melted again and again until you get a perfect seal. You can use a spoon, glue pot, or heating tool to remelt the waste wax. You cannot “waste” sealing wax. By mixing different colored wax parts and chunks, you can create unique and beautiful “marbled” seals.

To make a wax seal, gently but firmly press the stamp straight (vertically) into the melted wax. Wait about 30 to 45 seconds for the wax to set, then gently rock the stamp back and forth and pull up. Phoenician brass seals do not need to be oiled before being pressed into the molten wax. Other manufacturers’ seals may need to be oiled. Simply smear the surface of the seal (stamp) with some oil. You can also apply colored or metallic ink to the stamp surface for a beautiful and decorative look. Simply tap the seal lightly on an ink pad before pressing into the hot wax. The ink is automatically transferred to the wax seal. The heat tool mentioned in some techniques is also referred to as an embossing tool. It is available at any craft or stamp store. It looks like a hair dryer or a heat gun. Be extremely careful when crafting seals. Melted wax, flame, hot glue gun, hot glue pot, heating tool can cause burns.

WAX CANDLES

To create a seal with sealing wax candles, light the end of the candle and drip the wax onto the paper, creating a wax puddle of the desired size. push in the seal. When dripping the melted wax, it’s important to hold the candle at an angle with the flame end lower than the other end, but not so much that the melted wax flows onto the flame and snuffs it out. Also keep turning the candle so that the candle melts evenly. But don’t turn too fast or too abruptly; otherwise the flame will go out. This is a little tricky and may require some experimentation and practice. Alternative methods are: USE A SPOON: Hold the candle in the bowl of a spoon held over a heat source (make sure the spoon is heat safe and not used for food). Melt enough wax in the spoon and pour it on the desired spot. push in the seal.

WITH A BUTANE LIGHTER

Candles or sticks can also be melted by holding the flame of a butane lighter in the flame and dripping the wax onto the desired area. push in the seal. HOW TO USE A HEAT TOOL: Hold the candle in one hand at an angle and point downwards. Using a heat gun, blow hot air on the bottom end. When melted wax forms a puddle of the desired size, press the seal in.

GLUE POT METHOD

Candles, sticks, medallions, scraps of broken candles, sticks, medallions, etc. can be melted in a glue pot (available at most craft stores). When the wax has melted, grease two spoons with vegetable oil. Use one spoon to scoop up desired amount of melted wax and use the other spoon to scrape off desired area. push in the seal. Teflon-coated glue pots work best for this purpose.

WAX UTILIZATION WITH THE HEATING TOOL

Gather scraps of wax in a pile, just enough to make a seal. Apply heat with a heater, being careful not to let the puff of air blow the wax pieces off. To control the flying wax you can use a rubber O-ring or some sort of appropriately sized barrier around the pile. You can also tilt the weapon and use the air blast to control it. Push the stamp in when the wax melts. Mix different colored waxes to create a “marbled” seal.

NOT RECOMMENDED FOR CHILDREN

This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff. Our trained team of editors and researchers validate articles for accuracy and completeness. wikiHow’s content management team carefully oversees our editorial team’s work to ensure that every article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. This article has been viewed 29,796 times.

Article overview

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To make hot glue wax seals, first light a flame and hold it up to a glue stick to melt it. Try holding your lighter or match at an angle so the glue doesn’t drip directly on it. Place your envelope under the glue stick to catch the melting glue. You can also press the end of the glue stick against the hot glue to spread the glue if needed. Once you’ve gathered enough glue to make a large coin, dampen your wax seal stamp with a damp rag. Finally, press the stamp into the glue for about 5 seconds to form the seal. For more tips including how to make a hot glue seal with a glue gun, read on!

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So why the importance of beverage labels, you might ask? There is a constant joke in our household that you have to keep an eye on your wine glass or someone (or in the case of our family, several people) will mistake your glass for theirs and end up drinking out of all the drinks. This is especially true when cooking together in the kitchen.

Needless to say, marking your glass has become fairly common at our gatherings, and the holidays are the perfect excuse to spice up table settings and skip the plastic Sharpie-initials cup (though I’m not judging – there are times for all these things).

This time of year can be too busy and a little stressed, so let’s focus on the basics that make a holiday happy hour in addition to our sly customization. Whether setting the table for two or inviting your entire crew, here are a few things to keep in mind to make your gathering feel extra special:

Stick to a color theme: We can all get a bit heavy-handed with decorating this time of year. When designing my perfect happy hour, I like to keep things fairly simple and focus on spending time with my guests. For a polished look, pull out a few tabletop elements in a cohesive color palette — rust and emerald is my kind of color combo, especially since they work for both Thanksgiving and Christmas. Gotta love decor that can do double duty! Pick a few select items, like a new serving tray, table runner or cocktail napkins, that will pair your spread with your chosen color theme.

Add a little freshness: You don’t need to be mad about spending too much on a centerpiece when botanical clippings from the garden and a few fresh flowers from the grocery store can go a long way. Consider this an opportunity to play with textures and mix and match a few different items like berries, twigs, blossoms and even floral fillers… as long as they’re all in the same color story, they’ll look sophisticated and even better on the budget.

Make it Personal: This is where the DIY drinkware comes into your decor plan. What I love about this particular project is all the different creative things you can do with it. Different wax stamp designs, different color combinations… to the velvet ribbon or the gilded gold!? The sky is the limit and it really is so much fun that you can create your own unique happy hour style with this simple yet unexpected personalized pop.

Okay, we’ve got our style game plan… now it’s time to sip some wine (I’m serving Decoy Pinot Noir) and get ready to bring the crafty to your celebration! Trust me this DIY is pretty easy and you only need a few supplies which I have outlined below.

Ready to fire up those glue guns and start this holiday bliss!? Let’s go!

Recently we blogged about how to make traditional wax seals; However, it is also possible to create artificial wax seals and that’s what we’re going to share with you today.

You may be wondering why anyone would want to make an artificial wax seal. Well, if you want to create a seal but don’t have sealing wax handy, then you need an alternative.

In this blog post, we share three ways you can make a beautiful faux wax seal that you and your recipient will love.

How to make a wax seal with a colored pencil

To make a crayon wax seal, you must first select one or more crayons for your project.

Next, chop small pieces from the crayons you want to use for your seal and place them on a metal spoon.

The next step is to melt the wax on the spoon, which you can do over a candle or a burning gas stove. Alternatively, you can hold a crayon directly over a flame over your envelope and let it drip.

If using a spoon, allow the wax to cool slightly and slowly pour onto your envelope. Then use the handle of the spoon to stir the wax to get the desired size, shape and thickness.

If the wax is still very liquid, let it work for a few more seconds and then press your stamp into the wax with a little pressure. Leave the stamp in place for 10 seconds and then remove it.

Chalk wax seals are as vibrant as traditional sealing wax seals, so you’ll no doubt be amazed at the result.

How to make a wax seal with a glue gun

Another method of creating a “wax” seal is with glue. While clear glue is the most popular type, glue gun glue is also available in a wide variety of colors.

Choose your glue and then heat a piece of it in your glue gun for a few minutes.

When it’s done, use it to create a small circle of glue on a craft mat – and then fill in the circle with glue as well. When creating the circle, pay attention to the size of your stamp.

Your circle will look messy on the mat, but don’t worry; The result will be unique, and that’s what wax seals are all about.

Press your stamp into the center of your circle of glue and hold for about five seconds. Then remove the seal.

If the glue sticks to the sealant, wait for it to set completely and peel it off – it won’t break.

You could now add some color to your seal with acrylic paints, food coloring, or permanent markers if you used clear glue.

Finally, you can stick your seal on your envelope or other project.

How to make a wax seal with clay

A seal can also be made out of clay if you don’t have wax available – or you might prefer to make one out of clay.

To make a clay wax seal, you need to roll a conditioned ball of polymer clay and then smooth it out with an acrylic block, piece of glass, or something similar.

Once your clay is about 5mm thick, lightly spray water onto your stamp and press firmly into the center of the clay circle.

Carefully remove the stamp and then place the seal in the oven at 135°C for 45-60 minutes.

Let your seal cool, then stick it onto your envelope or project and it’s done.

Have you tried any of the wax sealing methods above? Let us know how it went in the comments!

Yes, you can send letters with wax seals through the United States Postal Service (USPS). The Post says wax can be used to seal packages as long as the seal is “sufficient to detect tampering.”

https://pe.usps.com/IMM_Archive/HTML/IMM_Archive_20080512/imm/immc2_018.htm

Are wax seals damaged in shipping?

The problem is that wax isn’t exactly strong and durable. After changing hands, going through different service bands, clenching at the bottom of stacks of mail and packages, and general rough handling of the delivery, the wax can be disfigured.

The best way to mail a wax letter is counterintuitive in terms of aesthetic presentation, but it’s still necessary. If you are sending a letter that has been sealed with wax, you should put it in a larger envelope, preferably one that has bubble wrap on the inside.

Delivery services often offer a “hand” delivery service (AKA Hand-Cancelled Mail, see below) for an additional fee, which means they are not pushed through machines or otherwise treated with any degree of carelessness. It’s still a risky proposition, as you’re entrusting a wax seal to a series of faces you’ll never see and never know.

If you feel this is the way to go you can always give it a try, perhaps with a test letter to see how it’s handled and whether it’s worth paying the extra fee or not. Otherwise, it’s probably best to put it in a box or protected envelope before sending it on its way.

Cost of sending a wax seal

On Twitter, the U.S. Postal Service is aware that wax seals may require additional postage. This is because wax used to seal envelopes weighs more than regular envelope glue. If an envelope weighs more than 1 ounce, you need to pay $0.20 for each additional 1 ounce.

What is hand stamped mail?

Most letters that go through the postal service go through automated sorting machines. However, due to the nature of the sorting machine, non-standard envelopes can be damaged. USPS offers a workaround for this issue that allows the mail to be sorted by hand. They call this hand cancelable or non-workable surcharges. The current fee for this service is $0.30 more.

More sealing wax coverage

Home Application of Sealing Wax & Tools

Dealing with sealing wax & tools

For someone new to wax sealing, many questions can arise – we get it!

The concept for wax sealing is:

Place hot wax in the area you want to seal

Pressing a decorative surface into the hot wax

Let these two pieces rest together long enough for the impression to soak into the wax.

Melting the wax can be done in many different ways:

Drain from a wicking sealing wax stick.

Melt a wickless stick of sealing wax over a flame and “smear” the wax onto your project

Pre-melt wax and apply with a spoon

and our favorite – with a glue gun to “point and shoot” your wax right where you need it.

We have listed our different methods of melting and applying wax below in the hope that the explanations will be clear and the process will be a fun exercise without any confusion.

Light the wick of the stick and hold it like a candle (vertically) until you see the wax around the base of the wick begin to melt. The melting wax provides the fuel to keep the flame lit. Slowly tilt and hold the wax stick at a slight 20 degree angle (lighted end down). Hold the wand squarely on and over the area where you wish to place your sigil and allow the melting wax to draw onto the project, creating a pool large enough for the sigil coin. If you find the wax getting solid while you are still melting the wax, move the candle around the area to mix hot wax with the cooler wax. Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick (or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax. Emboss with your seal and lift straight up. If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal. For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove.

Notes on sealing wax with wick:

Sealing waxes with an included wick are ideal for creating seals on demand

– You can easily select any color in your collection with no melters required.

One can easily use this type of wax on the go.

Available in a wide range of beautiful colors.

Can be slow for large projects unless you melt the sticks.

Contamination with wick weed is possible.

We also use candle style sealing wax with our melting pot which allows us to melt the wax with no soot contamination, re-melt and reuse our mistakes and mix colors for a custom look.

Insert your wax stick into your mini or standard size glue gun. Bring the gun up to temperature. Placing the gun on a piece of foil will keep any drips or strings away from your work area. Do a few sample draws to get a feel for the amount of wax you want to use for your seal. A 3/4 pull of the trigger should produce enough wax for a .75 inch diameter stamp. Two pulls of the trigger create a full seal for the larger 2″ seal coins. Wait 10-15 seconds before stamping the wax with your seal to get better definition in the wax. Experiment to find the right wait time for the conditions in your area. Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax – or place your stamp on an ice pack to chill it. Emboss with your seal and lift straight up.

If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal.

For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice (we use a freezer pack) before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove.

This method of sealing wax is useful for projects large or small.

Hot glue wax is very economical to use.

Alternating 1″ slugs of different colors of glue gun wax create a unique marbling effect.

Changing wax colors with a glue gun requires a little bit of wax.

The wax melts in a plenum inside the gun and new colors mix with the old until enough new wax can flow through to clear the color.

until enough new wax has run through to clear the color.

This can create some fun combinations when planning your colors!

If it’s important that colors don’t mix, consider the following:

– Cut pieces of less used colors to melt them in ours

– Using the Glue Gun Wax as a wickless sealing wax and melting it near a flame. – Match a color to a glue gun. – Cut pieces of lesser used colors to melt them in our melting spoon. – Use the glue gun wax as a wickless sealing wax and melt it near a flame.

We also use glue gun sealing wax sticks with our melting pot which allows us to reuse our mistakes as well as change and mix colors.

Insert your Faux Wax Stick into a standard sized glue gun. Use a second stick in the gun to propel the first one. Bring the gun up to temperature. Resting the gun on a piece of foil or a glue gun pad will keep any drips or strings away from your work area. Do a few sample draws to get a feel for the amount of wax you want to use for your seal. A 3/4 squeeze of the trigger creates enough wax for a standard 3/4 inch seal. A full pull of the trigger creates a full seal for the larger seal coins (1.1″). Wait 10-15 seconds before stamping the wax with your seal to get better definition in the wax. Experiment to get the find the correct wait time for the conditions in your area Emboss with your seal and lift it straight up.

Does not use any animal products in its production and is considered vegan.

Artificial wax is very economical to use.

A glue gun is the best application method.

Fake wax handles the shipping process better than real waxes.

Synthetic wax adheres to almost any surface without fail.

Faux Wax is a plastic polymer that creates a bright and shiny look.

We use Faux Sealing Wax Sticks with our Seal Non-Stick + Freezer Cold Packs

Alternating 1″ slugs of different colors of glue gun wax create a unique marbling effect.

Changing wax colors with a glue gun can be challenging.

The wax melts in a plenum inside the gun and new colors mix with the old until enough new wax can flow through to clear the color.

until enough new wax has run through to clear the color.

This can create some fun combinations when planning your colors!

If it’s important that colors don’t mix, consider the following:

– Assignment of a glue gun to a color.

– Cut pieces of lesser used colors to melt them in our melting spoon

– Using the Glue Gun Wax as a wickless sealing wax and melting it near a flame.

Standard size glue gun

synthetic wax

Have a heat source available, such as B. our soy candle .

Place 3 or more sealing wax beads (or a piece of wax stick) in a melting spoon and hold over the flame, our wax melter, or a heat gun until the wax is almost completely melted. The melted wax should resemble cold honey.

Pour the melted wax onto your project and emboss with your favorite wax seal stamp. Wait a few moments before embossing to get better definition of the wax and prevent wax thinning.

Experiment to find the right wait time for the conditions in your area.

Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick (or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax.

(or highlighting ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax. If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal. For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove. Notes on Pearl Sealing Wax:

Useful for big or small projects.

Pearl wax is the most economical of our waxes.

It’s easy to practice sealing on aluminum foil, parchment paper, or a silicone baking mat and re-melt the wax in the melting spoon to use again.

Create new colors and marbling effects by blending colors together.

We use both the Pearl Wax and Melting Spoon in conjunction with our Crucible, Soy Candle and Wax Melter – allowing us to reuse our bugs as well as change colors and mix. Seal non-stick

melting spoon n

soy candle

Take your time and hold the wax over the flame of a candle, but not close enough to burn (about 1 inch); a burned wax forms a streaky seal and is difficult to handle.

When a marble-sized amount of wax has gradually softened but is not dripping, apply to the area to be sealed in a circular motion, rubbing around and down until you have a circle of the right size and thickness, and pull then straight up and apply the seal. The result should be a clear impression.

If you want a little more control, cut or break your stick into pieces, place in a melting spoon and hold over a flame. (sootless soy candle or gas stove).

Allow the wax to almost completely melt and stir from the flame with a toothpick until all of the wax has melted. This creates a thicker viscosity. If you hold the spoon over the flame until the wax is completely melted, the wax may become too thin when pouring. If this happens, allow the wax to cool until it thickens, then pour it out.

Emboss with your seal.

Bring the crucible up to temperature by plugging it in and waiting a few minutes. Add as many wax beads or wax sticks as you like. Once the wax has melted, use a toothpick to remove any wicks in the wax. You can always add more wax.

Add as many wax beads or wax sticks as you like. Once the wax has melted, use a toothpick to remove any wicks in the wax. Using a melting spoon or other scoop, scoop out your wax and pour onto your project. A full melting spoon is enough to create a complete seal.

A full melting spoon is enough to create a complete seal. Wait 10-15 seconds before embossing your wax for better seal definition.

Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick (or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax.

Emboss with your seal and lift straight up.

If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal. For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove.

Notes on our melting pot:

You can use candle sealing wax, glue gun sealing wax, and wax beads with this method. (Just remove any wicks from the melted wax). Synthetic wax is not recommended for use in crucibles.

Synthetic wax is not recommended for use in crucibles. Useful for large and small projects.

You can practice on a non-stick silicone pad or parchment paper and keep re-melting the wax and re-using your mistakes.

You can mix wax colors in the pot.

Requires electricity.

crucible

melting/pouring spoon

Silicone non-stick pad

Ink highlighting

When creating your seal, you can use our highlighting ink to highlight the embossed areas of the wax simply by rubbing the ink onto your seal coin.

Melt your wax and prepare it with your seal.

Using even pressure, dab/brush your dry seal onto/over the ink pad.

Spread the ink on your seal by gently stroking the surface of the ink pad to remove any mottled appearance of excess ink.

Using even and gentle pressure, press your seal into the wax, allow the wax to set for a moment and lift the seal straight up to loosen it.

Then clean your seal with a damp cloth.

Using highlighting ink will help rid your seal coin of any wax and will help reduce production times on large projects. Our usage estimate is that around 40 seals can be highlighted per ink pad.

You may notice the ink beginning to dry or pool on the face of the coin. This is not a problem, but we recommend making sure this residue does not build up in the engraved area of ​​your seal and that the residue is removed before using a different color of ink or before embossing wax that you do not wish to highlight on which to appear target.

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This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff. Our trained team of editors and researchers validate articles for accuracy and completeness. wikiHow’s content management team carefully oversees our editorial team’s work to ensure that every article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. This article has been viewed 29,796 times.

Article overview

X

To make hot glue wax seals, first light a flame and hold it up to a glue stick to melt it. Try holding your lighter or match at an angle so the glue doesn’t drip directly on it. Place your envelope under the glue stick to catch the melting glue. You can also press the end of the glue stick against the hot glue to spread the glue if needed. Once you’ve gathered enough glue to make a large coin, dampen your wax seal stamp with a damp rag. Finally, press the stamp into the glue for about 5 seconds to form the seal. For more tips including how to make a hot glue seal with a glue gun, read on!

Home Application of Sealing Wax & Tools

Dealing with sealing wax & tools

For someone new to wax sealing, many questions can arise – we get it!

The concept for wax sealing is:

Place hot wax in the area you want to seal

Pressing a decorative surface into the hot wax

Let these two pieces rest together long enough for the impression to soak into the wax.

Melting the wax can be done in many different ways:

Drain from a wicking sealing wax stick.

Melt a wickless stick of sealing wax over a flame and “smear” the wax onto your project

Pre-melt wax and apply with a spoon

and our favorite – with a glue gun to “point and shoot” your wax right where you need it.

We have listed our different methods of melting and applying wax below in the hope that the explanations will be clear and the process will be a fun exercise without any confusion.

Light the wick of the stick and hold it like a candle (vertically) until you see the wax around the base of the wick begin to melt. The melting wax provides the fuel to keep the flame lit. Slowly tilt and hold the wax stick at a slight 20 degree angle (lighted end down). Hold the wand squarely on and over the area where you wish to place your sigil and allow the melting wax to draw onto the project, creating a pool large enough for the sigil coin. If you find the wax getting solid while you are still melting the wax, move the candle around the area to mix hot wax with the cooler wax. Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick (or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax. Emboss with your seal and lift straight up. If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal. For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove.

Notes on sealing wax with wick:

Sealing waxes with an included wick are ideal for creating seals on demand

– You can easily select any color in your collection with no melters required.

One can easily use this type of wax on the go.

Available in a wide range of beautiful colors.

Can be slow for large projects unless you melt the sticks.

Contamination with wick weed is possible.

We also use candle style sealing wax with our melting pot which allows us to melt the wax with no soot contamination, re-melt and reuse our mistakes and mix colors for a custom look.

Insert your wax stick into your mini or standard size glue gun. Bring the gun up to temperature. Placing the gun on a piece of foil will keep any drips or strings away from your work area. Do a few sample draws to get a feel for the amount of wax you want to use for your seal. A 3/4 pull of the trigger should produce enough wax for a .75 inch diameter stamp. Two pulls of the trigger create a full seal for the larger 2″ seal coins. Wait 10-15 seconds before stamping the wax with your seal to get better definition in the wax. Experiment to find the right wait time for the conditions in your area. Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax – or place your stamp on an ice pack to chill it. Emboss with your seal and lift straight up.

If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal.

For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice (we use a freezer pack) before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove.

This method of sealing wax is useful for projects large or small.

Hot glue wax is very economical to use.

Alternating 1″ slugs of different colors of glue gun wax create a unique marbling effect.

Changing wax colors with a glue gun requires a little bit of wax.

The wax melts in a plenum inside the gun and new colors mix with the old until enough new wax can flow through to clear the color.

until enough new wax has run through to clear the color.

This can create some fun combinations when planning your colors!

If it’s important that colors don’t mix, consider the following:

– Cut pieces of less used colors to melt them in ours

– Using the Glue Gun Wax as a wickless sealing wax and melting it near a flame. – Match a color to a glue gun. – Cut pieces of lesser used colors to melt them in our melting spoon. – Use the glue gun wax as a wickless sealing wax and melt it near a flame.

We also use glue gun sealing wax sticks with our melting pot which allows us to reuse our mistakes as well as change and mix colors.

Insert your Faux Wax Stick into a standard sized glue gun. Use a second stick in the gun to propel the first one. Bring the gun up to temperature. Resting the gun on a piece of foil or a glue gun pad will keep any drips or strings away from your work area. Do a few sample draws to get a feel for the amount of wax you want to use for your seal. A 3/4 squeeze of the trigger creates enough wax for a standard 3/4 inch seal. A full pull of the trigger creates a full seal for the larger seal coins (1.1″). Wait 10-15 seconds before stamping the wax with your seal to get better definition in the wax. Experiment to get the find the correct wait time for the conditions in your area Emboss with your seal and lift it straight up.

Does not use any animal products in its production and is considered vegan.

Artificial wax is very economical to use.

A glue gun is the best application method.

Fake wax handles the shipping process better than real waxes.

Synthetic wax adheres to almost any surface without fail.

Faux Wax is a plastic polymer that creates a bright and shiny look.

We use Faux Sealing Wax Sticks with our Seal Non-Stick + Freezer Cold Packs

Alternating 1″ slugs of different colors of glue gun wax create a unique marbling effect.

Changing wax colors with a glue gun can be challenging.

The wax melts in a plenum inside the gun and new colors mix with the old until enough new wax can flow through to clear the color.

until enough new wax has run through to clear the color.

This can create some fun combinations when planning your colors!

If it’s important that colors don’t mix, consider the following:

– Assignment of a glue gun to a color.

– Cut pieces of lesser used colors to melt them in our melting spoon

– Using the Glue Gun Wax as a wickless sealing wax and melting it near a flame.

Standard size glue gun

synthetic wax

Have a heat source available, such as B. our soy candle .

Place 3 or more sealing wax beads (or a piece of wax stick) in a melting spoon and hold over the flame, our wax melter, or a heat gun until the wax is almost completely melted. The melted wax should resemble cold honey.

Pour the melted wax onto your project and emboss with your favorite wax seal stamp. Wait a few moments before embossing to get better definition of the wax and prevent wax thinning.

Experiment to find the right wait time for the conditions in your area.

Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick (or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax.

(or highlighting ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax. If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal. For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove. Notes on Pearl Sealing Wax:

Useful for big or small projects.

Pearl wax is the most economical of our waxes.

It’s easy to practice sealing on aluminum foil, parchment paper, or a silicone baking mat and re-melt the wax in the melting spoon to use again.

Create new colors and marbling effects by blending colors together.

We use both the Pearl Wax and Melting Spoon in conjunction with our Crucible, Soy Candle and Wax Melter – allowing us to reuse our bugs as well as change colors and mix. Seal non-stick

melting spoon n

soy candle

Take your time and hold the wax over the flame of a candle, but not close enough to burn (about 1 inch); a burned wax forms a streaky seal and is difficult to handle.

When a marble-sized amount of wax has gradually softened but is not dripping, apply to the area to be sealed in a circular motion, rubbing around and down until you have a circle of the right size and thickness, and pull then straight up and apply the seal. The result should be a clear impression.

If you want a little more control, cut or break your stick into pieces, place in a melting spoon and hold over a flame. (sootless soy candle or gas stove).

Allow the wax to almost completely melt and stir from the flame with a toothpick until all of the wax has melted. This creates a thicker viscosity. If you hold the spoon over the flame until the wax is completely melted, the wax may become too thin when pouring. If this happens, allow the wax to cool until it thickens, then pour it out.

Emboss with your seal.

Bring the crucible up to temperature by plugging it in and waiting a few minutes. Add as many wax beads or wax sticks as you like. Once the wax has melted, use a toothpick to remove any wicks in the wax. You can always add more wax.

Add as many wax beads or wax sticks as you like. Once the wax has melted, use a toothpick to remove any wicks in the wax. Using a melting spoon or other scoop, scoop out your wax and pour onto your project. A full melting spoon is enough to create a complete seal.

A full melting spoon is enough to create a complete seal. Wait 10-15 seconds before embossing your wax for better seal definition.

Dab your seal in our Seal Non-Stick (or Highlighting Ink for a dimensional look) to prevent the seal from sticking to the sealing wax.

Emboss with your seal and lift straight up.

If you’re not using a non-stick product and find that the wax won’t separate from the seal, simply let your seal rest on the wax until the wax has completely cooled, then lift off your seal. For strong waxes, we recommend putting your sealer on ice before embossing the hot wax – this will set the wax quickly and make the sealer easy to remove.

Notes on our melting pot:

You can use candle sealing wax, glue gun sealing wax, and wax beads with this method. (Just remove any wicks from the melted wax). Synthetic wax is not recommended for use in crucibles.

Synthetic wax is not recommended for use in crucibles. Useful for large and small projects.

You can practice on a non-stick silicone pad or parchment paper and keep re-melting the wax and re-using your mistakes.

You can mix wax colors in the pot.

Requires electricity.

crucible

melting/pouring spoon

Silicone non-stick pad

Ink highlighting

When creating your seal, you can use our highlighting ink to highlight the embossed areas of the wax simply by rubbing the ink onto your seal coin.

Melt your wax and prepare it with your seal.

Using even pressure, dab/brush your dry seal onto/over the ink pad.

Spread the ink on your seal by gently stroking the surface of the ink pad to remove any mottled appearance of excess ink.

Using even and gentle pressure, press your seal into the wax, allow the wax to set for a moment and lift the seal straight up to loosen it.

Then clean your seal with a damp cloth.

Using highlighting ink will help rid your seal coin of any wax and will help reduce production times on large projects. Our usage estimate is that around 40 seals can be highlighted per ink pad.

You may notice the ink beginning to dry or pool on the face of the coin. This is not a problem, but we recommend making sure this residue does not build up in the engraved area of ​​your seal and that the residue is removed before using a different color of ink or before embossing wax that you do not wish to highlight on which to appear target.

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