Growing Tomatoes In Clay Soil? The 68 Latest Answer

Gunky Clay is nobody’s idea of ​​wonderful garden soil. When wet, it’s heavy and slimy, and dries into chunky slabs that break into pieces. Like other extreme soil types, firm clay can be radically improved with regular infusions of organic matter and careful management. I’ve grown vegetables in clay soil all my life and we agree. I respect the needs and quirks of clay soil and it pays off with a fun and fruitful garden.

understand clay soil

The most remarkable thing about clay is its density. Clay particles are tiny, many times smaller than grains of sand, so wet clay feels smooth between your fingers rather than grainy. When the tiny particles are coated with water, they can stick together with a little pressure. If you can easily form a handful of moist soil into a ball that holds together well, you probably have clay. Another test is to mix soil with water in a jar and then watch the sediment settle. Clay soils settle in layers of fine sediments that feel like slippery mud and take hours for the water to clear.

Because of its fine texture, clay soil tends to compact, which limits the amount of soil oxygen available to plant roots and soil microorganisms. Mulches can help here, because they act as shock absorbers in heavy rain and house earthworms, which supply dense soil with air with their constant tunnel construction activity. When growing vegetables in clay soil, mulch slows down natural compaction and encourages natural soil aeration, which in turn increases plant root comfort.

Footsteps from people and pets can also compact clay soil, so it’s important to improve the soil in permanent beds that are never stepped on. There is a catch, there is very little you can do in wet clay soil – you have to be patient and wait because attempts to move wet clay always result in a sticky mess.

There are various tests of when clay soil is dry enough to work with and here’s mine. Throw a spadeful of dirt in the air and catch it with the spade. Gardening is hip when it breaks, but not when it breaks into big chunks. When I must venture into a dripping garden to gather vegetables for dinner, I walk on broad planks set up in the paths. The boards distribute my weight so that even the paths are protected a little from extreme compaction.

Good things about clay

Due to its density, clay soil holds both moisture and nutrients well. You can take advantage of clay soil’s nutrient storage abilities by using slow-release mineral fertilizers like rock phosphate and gypsum (calcium sulfate) to build soil fertility. Many gardeners believe that plaster of paris helps loosen up the solid texture of clay. Gypsum is not a substitute for organic material, but it certainly works as a simple, sustainable source of calcium.

Encouraging aeration is a constant goal when growing vegetables in clay soil, which can be easily accomplished by mixing coarse forms of organic matter into the soil between plantings. Lumpy types of organic material like garden compost, weathered sawdust, or chopped leaves improve the texture of clay better and longer than very fine materials like ground peat moss or sieved compost. When mixed into dense clay, large particles of organic matter become islands of life for microorganisms that play an important role in converting compacted clay into fertile clay loam.

After organic matter has been added to clay soil for more than three seasons, you will see dramatic changes in the soil’s texture, or crust. It dries faster after heavy rains, tears a little less in dry weather, and doesn’t require as much digging to keep it ventilated. Instead, when renovating plant beds, you can start by using a long-pronged broadfork to re-aerate the root zone. Clay soil is heavy, so using a spreader fork is less work than digging and turning a bed. Once a bed is perforated with deep holes by a wide fork, compost and organic fertilizer spread over the surface can be raked into the holes.

Best vegetable for clay soil

One of the best approaches to growing vegetables in clay soil is to stick to vegetables that like clay for the first few years of soil improvement. Lettuce, Swiss chard, beans, and other shallow-rooted plants benefit from clay soil’s ability to retain moisture, and broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage often grow better in clay soil than in loose loam because their roots enjoy a firm anchorage. Mid- and late-season sweetcorn is also a good choice, but some of the best vegetables to grow in Clay are squashes and squashes. As long as they are grown in planting holes generously filled with compost, summer squashes and small gourds seem to thrive anywhere.

Or maybe you should try rice. Clay soil is perfect for growing rice because it holds water. Without them, the world would quickly starve.

By Barbara Pleasant

Every gardener wants to grow the tastiest tomatoes, the brightest zinnias, and the healthiest shrubs, but no type of soil guarantees success for each of these types of plants. Soil type—a classification determined by the texture and relative proportions of sand, silt, and clay—determines the soil’s ability to retain nutrients and moisture, and therefore determines what it is suitable for growing. Sure, you can always guess the properties of your soil, but to help your soil produce the best crop, take a sample of soil to your local consulting agency and have it tested. For a small fee, you can find out the soil type (or soil types, as there are different grades), its pH and how it can be improved. Read on for the most common soil types, how they affect your landscaping projects, and how you can improve yours with the right products.

Understand and adjust soil pH

The pH of your soil is a measure of its acidifying capacity. The pH scale goes from 1.0 to 14.0. Values ​​below 7.0 indicate soil in the acidic range, and the lower the number, the greater the soil’s acidifying ability. Values ​​above 7.0 are in the alkaline range, and the higher the number, the higher the alkalinity of the soil. A soil pH that falls in the slightly acidic range of 6.0 to 7.0 is considered optimal for most plants and flowers. Balance overly acidic soils with products containing lime or wood ash. To reduce alkalinity, use a product that contains aluminum sulfate, urea, or elemental sulfur.

Soil Type: Clay

BEST FOR: Woody, moisture-loving perennials

Clay soil particles are so tiny that they pack tightly together, locking in moisture and nutrients but restricting oxygen and drainage. Only work clay soil when it is bone dry to prevent rock-hard lumps from forming. Amend the clay soil by adding a thick, three to four inch layer of mulch (dry leaves or bagged wood chips) in the fall, then allow it to remain on the soil throughout winter and wait until spring to top it off to edit below. In spring, before planting, incorporate additional organic matter into the soil to reduce compaction and encourage drainage.

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Most soil types, including clay, which tends to be slightly alkaline, benefit from the addition of organic matter. Organic material is often vegetable, i. H. it comes from plants or trees and includes substances such as dried leaves, straw, wood shavings and even cardboard; Animal organic matter — manure from cows, goats, chickens, and llamas — contains a variety of micro- and macronutrients for soil improvement wherever you grow (or plan to grow) crops. Fresh manure can burn any tender plants present and kill seedlings, so try applying a layer of fresh manure in late fall and letting it overwinter before plowing under in spring for best results.

Woody perennials like wisteria usually do well in unmodified clay soil. Because clay is rich in nutrients and is frequently altered to improve drainage and airflow, you can even expand its growing capacity to accommodate a variety of vegetables, shrubs, and flowering plants.

Soil type: Sandy

BEST FOR: Drought tolerant plants

Sandy soil is made up of crushed rock particles and does not hold the amount of moisture or vital nutrients needed to grow many vegetable and flowering plants. Homeowners with sandy soil should mix in organic matter every spring and fall to expand the ability to grow. The added organic matter acts like a sponge to absorb and retain moisture, making it available to plant roots for longer.

Depending on the type of rock particles and other matter your soil contains, its pH can range in the acidic or slightly alkaline range. If your soil is sandy and you have no intention of changing it, limit your garden landscape to plants that will thrive even if their roots dry out between waterings. California poppy, crape myrtle, cleome, gazania, yarrow, and cosmos all thrive well in sandy soil with regular watering.

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Soil type: muddy

BEST FOR: Humidity loving plants

If you live in an area that was once a riverbed, chances are you have muddy bottom. More fertile than sandy soil, silt particles are very fine and soft, making this soil type a top choice for growing lush vines and flowers that thrive in moist soil. Its pH can vary from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. The disadvantage of silty soil is its tendency to compaction, which reduces drainage and prevents oxygen from reaching plant roots. To reduce compaction problems, add a few inches of compost or composted manure and work it into the top six inches of soil before planting in spring. Apply additional compost around the plants during the growing season, and in late fall spread a layer of dried leaves or other mulch over the soil bed and allow it to overwinter.

The best plants for unaltered muddy soil are those that can tolerate “wet feet” (meaning a mostly damp root system), including all types of willow trees, dogwood trees, many types of irises, peonies, roses, and many types of grapevines. With just a few tweaks to improve drainage, muddy soil is great for growing vegetables.

Soil type: loamy

BEST FOR: All plant species

If there’s one near-perfect soil type, it’s clay in the eyes of a gardener. Loamy soil is a balanced mix of clay, sand and silt. It drains well and is rich in nutrients. Homeowners with naturally clay soil can grow virtually any type of plant. Depending on pH levels, which can vary, you may need to add either an acidic or alkaline fertilizer if you’re growing acid-loving plants like blueberries or alkaline-loving plants like wisteria. A light application of dry leaves or mulch, about 1 inch thick, is usually all that is needed to keep loamy soil healthy. Spread the leaves or mulch over it in the fall and let it naturally decompose over the winter. Until it sets in spring before planting.

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Vegetables, annual and perennial flowers, and most types of shrubs thrive in loamy soil.

Soil type: calcareous

BEST FOR: Alkaline-loving plants

Calcareous soils have an average pH of 7.5, making them best for bulbs, tubers and flowering shrubs that thrive in alkaline soil. Calcareous soils, often found in areas with strong limestone formations, dry out quickly in hot weather, making frequent watering a must. If you want to grow a greater variety of plants, you will need to amend the soil by adding organic matter such as composted manure or peat and working it into the top 20cm of soil. When wet, calcareous soil clumps together, making cultivation difficult. So wait until it is dry to incorporate organics.

Base-tolerant plants like lilies and lilacs can thrive in chalky soil, but even with a change, it’s difficult to grow acid-loving plants like blueberries, azaleas, rhododendrons, or heather.

Good rid of the cucumbers of a few decades ago — those fatty, green, spiky, hard-skinned, and acid-producing fruits that were once served with iceberg lettuce and bottle dressing. Today’s cucumber is a culinary and garden delight — and for good reason: Cucumbers come in all shapes, sizes, colors, and flavors, and they’re one of the easiest crops to grow. The cucumber is one of the oldest fruits in agriculture and is the most commonly cultivated in the world. It has adapted to different climatic zones and today includes unique varieties. From bush to pickling to seedless, no garden is complete without a cucumber (or two or three).

Cucumbers grow almost everywhere

Once established, cucumbers thrive in a range of soil types — from dense loam to slightly sandy loam — although all soils should be well-drained. It’s a good idea to wait for warm weather to plant cucumbers as they are sensitive to soil temperature. When starting from seed or transplanting seedlings, make sure the soil is at least 65°F or they may not survive. Remember that heavier soils stay cool in spring, especially in wet conditions, while sandy soil textures are lighter and warm up faster. Cucumbers that are somewhat heavy feeders will benefit from the application of compost incorporated into the soil prior to planting.

Choose a sunny spot and remember that cucumbers like to spread. Expect their vines to easily stray 5 to 6 feet from the center of the plant and set the fruit farther out along the vines as the season progresses. When planting your garden, avoid crowding cucumbers or you will find their vines darting down paths and creeping into beds where they don’t belong. Cucumbers are natural climbers and trellising is a great space-saving strategy. If you let them climb, the chances of a larger harvest and better quality fruit are good, as the trellis keeps the cucumbers off the ground where they would be susceptible to pests and diseases.

In New England, we started our first round of cucumber transplants in the early days of June, sometimes earlier once the threat of frost has passed. As it can still get a little chilly at night at this time of year, we protect the plants with a floating row cover supported by wire hoops. The tires prevent the row cover from resting directly on the new plants, which is particularly important on windy days as the cover can damage the plants by roughening them or breaking their stems.

Cucumber plants have extensive root systems, making them adept at finding the water and nutrients they need. Water the plants deeply but not too often. Withholding watering encourages plants to establish deeper root systems while they seek moisture. Cucumbers grown in well-drained soil need about an inch of water per week.

Fruit should be harvested often

Once the plants bloom, keep an eye out for tiny fruits forming on the vines. The first fruits will set close to the base of the plant and then further out as the plants grow. Consult your seed catalog to make sure you know the ideal crop size for each strain you’re growing. Some cut cucumbers, for example, are ready to harvest when they are 8 to 10 inches long, but shorter cut varieties like Boothby’s Blonde never grow longer than 4 inches. If left on the plant for too long, cucumbers will become plump, bitter, and dingy. It’s a good idea to check the plants every other day once you start harvesting. Be extra vigilant during a heat wave; Cucumbers ripen quickly when temperatures reach 80°F to 90°F. Remove overgrown or imperfect fruit from the vine, as they use up valuable energy rather than making room for new fruit to form. When harvesting, carefully break or cut the stem with a small serrated knife to avoid tearing the vine and reducing future blooms and fruit.

Cucumbers can be overwhelming when all of your plants have the same plan. For this reason, it is worth considering multiple planting rows for a prolonged and manageable harvest.

Be proactive to deter the cucumber beetle

The main pest of cucumbers is the striped cucumber beetle. It feeds on cucumber stalks, leaves, flowers and fruits. In addition, the beetle can transmit diseases such as bacterial wilt. Defense is the best offense when it comes to the cucumber beetle. Here are four recommended strategies:

Use a row cover

A floating row cover creates a physical barrier that prevents the beetle from finding your plants.

Dip plants in kaolin clay

Spray or dip the plants in a solution of kaolin clay (brand name Surround) before planting and once a week during the plants’ first month in the garden. A white film dries on the plants, leaving a sticky residue. The beetle is busy tending to itself and tries to remove this debris rather than eating the plants.

Apply mulch

If you mulch anything in your garden, make cucumbers a priority. Mulch with straw, hay, plastic, or landscape fabric to discourage the beetle from laying its eggs in the soil beneath the plants. Mulch also deters weeds, retains moisture, and protects the soil.

Clean at the end of the season

Once your cucumber harvest is ready, incorporate healthy fruit residue into the soil so it breaks down quickly and thoroughly. However, plant remains should be removed as they could harbor overwintering beetles. It’s best to bag and throw away the removed plant debris rather than adding it to the compost heap.

Kate Donald is a certified organic grower and co-owns Stout Oak Farm in Brentwood, New Hampshire with her husband Jeff.

CORVALLIS – When you walk around the garden on a wet day, do your shoes get stuck in the mud? Could you make ceramic pots out of the soil in your garden? Chances are you have clay soil, one of the biggest challenges for the home gardener.

Finely structured clay soils are difficult to work up and develop into a good seedbed. When the clay is dry it tends to be very hard and lumpy. When wet it tends to be very sticky and difficult to handle. It seems like a gardener’s nightmare.

But clay soils have their characteristics, says Linda Brewer, a teaching assistant in the Department of Soil Science at Oregon State University.

“Loamy soils contain huge amounts of plant nutrients because they have increased cation exchange capacities,” Brewer said. This allows them to retain nutrients, fertilizers and pesticides.

Another advantage of clay soils is that they adhere very well to water.

“Clay soils hold huge amounts of water at very high tensions because the spaces between the clay particles are so fine,” explains Brewer. “The largest particle of clay is more than 1,000 times smaller than the smallest particle of sand.”

The best way to improve clay soils is to thoroughly mix organic materials with existing soil, Brewer explained.

Bark, sawdust, manure, leaf soil, compost, and peat moss are among the organic additives commonly used to improve clay soils. Two or three inches of organic matter should be spread out and rototilled, forked, or dug into the top six or seven inches of your garden beds.

“Clay soils are highly structured at the atomic level, much like crystals,” Brewer said. “A lot of sand cannot be added to a clay soil to change its texture. The large sand particles usually provide a surface for the tiny clay particles to adhere to. The result can be a harder-to-manage soil than the original clay.”

When a large amount of organic matter is added to the soil, microorganisms multiply rapidly. Because they build their bodies off the same nutrients that plants use, soil nutrients may be relatively unavailable for a period of time after manure or compost has been added. This condition can last until the organic matter is broken down and nutrients are released.

To overcome the temporary lack of nutrients, gardeners might try adding nitrogen-poor organic matter to the soil in the fall, or smaller amounts at a time in the spring when the warm weather will quickly collapse. Or sprinkle in some fertilizer like ammonium sulfate at the time of tillage to provide an immediate source of nutrients.

Organic material in the soil serves as food for earthworms, insects, bacteria and fungi – they convert it into soil nutrients and humus. This decomposition process makes materials available as food for growing plants. In finely structured clay soils, organic matter forms aggregates of soil particles, improving drainage and facilitating tillage. Earthworms are especially helpful in making and keeping soil porous and well-draining, Brewer said.

Fertile soil with a good topsoil does not result from one or more additions of organic material, but from a consistent soil building program. “Repeated additions of organic matter change the physical properties of clay soils on a broader scale, but these additions must be regular to sustain the changes,” Brewer said.

“There’s no rest for people who garden in clay,” she said, laughing.

Carrots have a reputation for being difficult to grow in the clay soils of Georgia. With a little knowledge and a few tricks, home gardeners can successfully grow carrots, according to experts at the University of Georgia Extension.

Carrots are a cool season crop and now is the time to plant them. Start by choosing a spot where the seeds will get eight to 10 hours of sunlight.

According to Bob Westerfield, UGA Extension’s vegetable specialist, the key to growing carrots is to start with heavily modified, well-drained, organic soil. Carrots like a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Cultivate and change soil

Prepare the site by milling to a depth of 10 inches. If your garden consists of hard clay soil, Westerfield recommends growing carrots in containers or raised beds at least 8 inches to 12 inches tall.

Fill the beds with a rich mixture of compost, manure and topsoil. If you prefer to grow carrots the traditional way, like in soil, add 6 inches of sandy topsoil or other organic supplement.

There are two schools of thought on how to plant carrot seeds: plant in traditional rows or define an area – e.g. B. Raised beds in community gardens – and spread the seeds. In any case, place the seeds on the soil bed and sprinkle about half a centimeter of soil over them. Consider mixing in some radish seeds when planting.

Carrot seeds are very small. To ensure good seed-to-soil contact with such small seeds, it’s a good idea to lightly tamp the soil down. A tamper is useful for applying just enough pressure to make contact without compacting the soil.

Add water and wait

Now water the seeds and be patient. Carrots take several weeks to germinate. Carrots need regular watering unless it rains consistently. Provide about an inch of water every seven to 10 days if possible. Carrots grown in raised beds or containers may need more frequent watering as they tend to dry out quickly. Overhead watering works, but drip irrigation or drip hoses save moisture and help prevent leaf diseases.

Once carrot plants emerge, thinning is essential. If the carrots get too cramped underground, they can wither. Thinning can be time consuming, especially when planted, but don’t skip this step. Instead of pulling up plants to thin out your bed, use scissors to cut off seedlings at the root. This will minimize disturbance to the remaining plants. The goal should be about 2 inches between the carrot plants.

When the carrot tops are about 3 inches tall, Westerfield recommends adding pine straw, wheat straw, or other organic mulch around the plants to reduce weeds and conserve moisture. Look for the total “days to harvest” on the seed packet. Pull a carrot sample or two just before harvest, Westerfield said. Carrots should be at least half an inch in diameter when harvested. When harvesting, be very careful not to damage your crop.

As the soil cools, carrots actually get sweeter. Some gardeners leave the carrots in the ground over the winter with good results.

Not just long and orange

The shorter or medium-length carrot varieties produce the best quality in gardens with heavy soils. The longer varieties prefer sandy soils.

When choosing a variety to plant, remember that carrots don’t have to be orange. The Chantenay Red Core is reddish while Purple Haze is obviously purple. Danvers 126, Scarlet Nantes and Nantes are all recommended orange varieties. Look for carrot seeds at feed and seed stores, hardware stores, and large retailers. There are also several strains that can be ordered through seed companies such as Burpee and Johnny’s Selected Seeds.

“With carrots, you’re never quite sure what you have until you pull them out and see the golden nugget on the other end,” Westerfield said. “I’ve had years where I’ve produced superb carrots and other years where mice and voles have eaten my precious crop.”

For more information about gardening in Georgia, contact your local University of Georgia Extension representative at 1-800-ASK-UGA1.

Preparing soil for garden image by Cherry-Merry from Fotolia.com

The tiny particles found in clay soil hold water well, but they provide plants with little oxygen. Clay soils tend to warm up more slowly in spring and are more difficult to work with than clay soils. If you work clay soil while it is wet, it will turn into a cement-like lump that will be compacted and damaged. Clay soils tend to retain nutrients better than sandy soils, which means less fertilizer is needed, although the nutrients aren’t always available to plants.

Identification Soil consists of sand, silt or clay particles. Sand particles are the largest and clay the smallest. Silt particles are somewhere in between. To determine the type of soil in your garden, scoop up a handful of moist soil and form it into a ball. Smooth it into a band between your fingers. If the tape breaks before it is an inch long, you have clay or silt soil. If it breaks between 1 and 2 inches, the soil is clay. If it breaks at 2 inches or longer, the soil is clay. The tiny particles found in clay soil hold water well, but they provide plants with little oxygen.

If it breaks between 1 and 2 inches, the soil is clay.

Soil Test Before adding fertilizer to clay soil, do a soil test. Soil testing is available from local district extension offices or commercial laboratories. Dig up eight to 10 samples from different areas of your garden, mix the samples, and send them to the lab in the kit. A professional lab test will not only reveal the type of soil you have, but also the pH level and the need for changes, such as: B. Gypsum to lower the pH or phosphorus.

Changes The best fertilizer for clay soil is organic material, such as manure, compost, and moistened peat moss. Spread 2 inches of each material along the bottom and to a depth of 12 inches each fall. Work the soil when it is slightly damp but not soggy. Working on wet clay soil will further compact it. Organic additives not only improve the drainage, aeration and structure of clay soils, they also add nutrients such as nitrogen. Before adding fertilizers to clay soil, do a soil test.

A professional lab test will not only reveal the type of soil you have, but also the pH level and the need for changes, such as: B. Gypsum to lower the pH or phosphorus.

Cover Crops Plant cover crops like hairy vetch, grain rye, crimson clover, rye, and oats in the fall when you’re harvesting your vegetable crops. Cover crops grow over the winter and are cut down or plowed under in the spring. As they decompose, they improve soil structure and add nitrogen, according to Fine Gardening. Legume cover crops fix nitrogen in the soil, making it more available for vegetables the following spring.

Due to its density, clay retains moisture well. It also tends to be more nutrient dense than other soil types. This is because the particles that make up clay soil are negatively charged, meaning they attract and hold positively charged particles like calcium, potassium, and magnesium.

Perth soils are often low in clay and consist of only sand, so adding 1-5% clay to soil mixes has numerous benefits:

• It was shown that the water content of clay-enriched soils was twice that of non-enriched soils in areas with little irrigation;

• Added clay increases soil moisture retention rates;

• The clay can spread when wetted and reacts with other soil components;

• The clay has a high cation exchange capacity which helps the positive and negative ions in the soil work together;

• You only need a small percentage of 1-5% to make a big difference in soil profile.

With the water allocation rates and cost of water being used in community parks, gardens, lawns, golf courses, etc., this is becoming quite a problem for all park managers and athletic field superintendents.

Richgro adds bentonite clay to the mixes, which is a high quality calcium bentonite clay quarried in an area 250km north of Perth. By mixing in or adding small percentages of clay into the Richgro range of landscape and lawn products, the soil becomes so much more beneficial to the end user.

Case Studies:

City of Bayswater – Use a lawn mix with bentonite clay added to help the lawn support and recover from stem nematode damage.

Deep Green Landscaping – Use bentonite in your roofing and garden mixes to give the soil the best chance to hold water and nutrients, especially in new plantings.

Environmental industries – adding a small percentage of bentonite clay to their landscape mixes has proven to be a winner for them in newly planted areas with fewer plant losses.

Wetting agent with bentonite clay

Richgro supplies a commercial granulated wetting agent containing 50% granulated bentonite. This offers much more than just keeping water and nutrients in the soil profile longer; It’s a great long-term benefit and the tone will be there forever.

Richgro also manufactures many specialty mixes for customers for use in landscaping, roof gardens, lawn fertilization, nematode suppression, horticulture and general gardening.

Tips:

CLAY CHANGES

When planting in sandy soil, it is important to incorporate a clay additive such as bentonite. Clay-based additives make soil more friable and help retain both moisture and fertilizer, saving you money and protecting our precious rivers from excess nitrogen pollution that can cause problems in waterways.

SOIL CHANGES

It goes without saying that our nutrient-poor soils need soil conditioning. A ratio of between 30-50% soil conditioner to 70-50% soil is usually recommended; The amount depends on the quality of your soil. Soil conditioners are available in bags or bulk from Richgro. Also manure is often added to the planting hole which I would recommend our mixed manure as the 3 types of animal manure are incorporated into the bags with composted sawdust.

Always mix soil conditioners and clay additives thoroughly with the existing soil and use water to achieve a chocolate-like clay texture. Never plant directly into a hole with unmixed soil conditioner or compost. Your plant roots will burn and most likely it won’t be long before the plant dies.

Clay soil is very dense and does not allow water to drain away easily. When watered, it only seems to collect on the surface of the soil. It is also extremely rich in minerals and contains little to no living organisms. To plant a vegetable garden, flowers or trees in the clay soil, you must change the clay soil.

Ways to change clay soil without tillage

There are many ways to change clay soil for the better. Better yet, you don’t have to work clay soil to change it. Here are a few things you could do:

integration

This is the best way to modify the soil without tillage. You need to poke holes in the ground, making sure they are relatively deep and a couple of inches wide. Remove the clay and dispose of it appropriately. Finally, fill the holes with compost or other organic matter. Over time, this will change the chemical composition of the soil.

dig

This is similar to milling but does not require a milling machine and can be spread out over a period of time. Dig a hole in the area you want to improve and fill it with old food scraps. When the hole is full, cover it with some clay or good soil if you have any. This stimulates microorganisms to bring the soil back to life.

mulching

If you have a lawn that needs frequent mowing, it is in your best interest to purchase a lawnmower with a mulching function. Sprinkle the mulch over the clay soil or use it as an organic matter for binding.

Top layer dressing

Adding a layer of “good” soil mixed with mulch or compost will change the clay structure slightly, but this is by no means a long-term solution.

liquid aeration

Liquid aeration products can work wonders on clay soils, but should never be used as the sole soil amendment method. This is more of a chemical solution and one that not everyone is a fan of, especially if you want to grow organic plants and vegetables.

Plants that grow well in clay soil

Sometimes the best way to combat the problem is to accept it. There are many beautiful plants that thrive in clay soil. For example, Japanese forest grass is a great ground cover that helps the soil. Here is a list of our top 10 favorites:

May 26, 2016

onion family

Onions and their relatives are an important part of many cuisines around the world. They are considered a staple in most kitchens. There are many species and cultivars that can be grown and all prefer loose soil, full sun and regular moisture.

grow onions

Onions grow best in well-drained and cultivated sandy loam soil. For clay soil, work in compost to loosen compaction. Heavier soil will not allow onion bulbs to grow to their potential.

Follow your soil test recommendations for fertilizer. Sidedress plants by lightly placing a nitrogen fertilizer next to the plants in June.

Water to keep the soil evenly moist but not wet.

Mulch to keep soil moist and remove weed competition.

Plant bulbs early to get as much leaf growth as possible. Plant them after the soil has thawed in spring, when you can turn it easily with a shovel.

onion terms

Sets are small bulbs grown from seed in the previous year. Each set should be no more than a half to three-quarters of an inch wide, less than a dime in diameter. Large sets often go to seed and cause the bulb to stall growth. The quality of the bulb will be reduced. Place sets one to two inches deep in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Sets should be spaced two inches apart in the row. Cover with an inch of soil.

Onions can be grown from seed but often produce irregular bulbs and are only suitable for early maturing varieties.

family members

Onions are one of the most commonly grown vegetables in home gardens. Onions are classified according to:

pear shape; flat, round or spherical.

Colour; white, yellow or red.

sharpness; sweet or spicy.

The onion’s response to day length; short, medium and long.

In Michigan, the most commonly grown onion is the hot, yellow ball variety. They are best suited to Michigan’s cool conditions. Of the three onion colors, the yellow ones keep best.

Shallots are propagating bulbs that divide into a clump of smaller bulbs that resemble tulip bulbs. Many varieties do not form seeds. Shallots have a mild, delicate onion flavor and a pink outer skin when peeled. Shallots are grown from cloves, small shallot bulbs. Harvest when the tops die back in summer. Shallots can overwinter in the garden, but it is better to remove the clumps of cloves and replant a row of the small cloves in the fall. Shallots can be cooked or served raw.

Leeks are grown for their thick, white stalks, which have a sweet, mild onion flavor. They don’t form bulbs. Leeks can be served raw or cooked. They can be roasted or added to stews or soups. Start leeks indoors four to six weeks before planting for harvest in the fall. Leek is biennial. If left until next year, they will produce flowers and seeds, and the taste will become unpleasant. Leeks from seed take about 130 days to harvest.

Spring onions are known by a variety of names. They are also called shallots, scallions or scallions. In England they are referred to as Welsh onions and in the southern United States they are referred to as “bladed onions”.

The top of the above-ground bunch bulb is eaten, and the bulb that develops at ground level is not much thicker than the stem. Most spring onions have white stems with green, hollow, tubular leaves. There is also a bunch onion with dark red to purple stems and green leaves.

These bulbs can be grown from transplants for a same year harvest. Plant them in a furrow four to six inches deep. As the plants grow, gradually fill in the furrow or heap soil around the plants. This will increase the amount of white space in the lower part of the plant. They are ready for harvest after very little growth. If you start from seed, you can start in spring or in September for an early harvest next year.

Chives are grown for their leaves, which have a delicate onion flavor. The leaves are cut and chopped and sprinkled over many dishes or mixed into dips. They are served uncooked, as their delicate flavor does not stand up to cooking. The bulbs are not used. Chives have round, hollow, tapering leaves and grow in clumps. They produce edible purple flowers in late spring or early summer. Chives are perennial and easily grown in flower gardens that serve dual functions as ornamental and edible plants. They can be bought as seeds or transplants.

Garlic chives have flat leaves like garlic and leeks. The taste is very similar to garlic and the tips are harvested like regular chives. They grow taller than regular chives. Garlic chives are perennial plants with edible white flowers. Remove seed heads before they are mature to avoid an excessive number of seedlings in your garden.

Common garlic is usually grown from cloves, which are parts of the bulb. To grow larger bulbs, start the cloves early in the fall and mulch in the winter. Garlic will not grow unless it is watered regularly or has weed competition.

Elephant garlic is another species grown for its large cloves and mild flavor. Growing conditions for garlic are generally the same as for onions: full sun, well-drained soil, and regular moisture or watering.

harvest

Onions are done growing when the tops fall off and are dry. Leave the bulbs in the ground for a week or two to allow them to develop a thick skin. Then dig up and remove the soil stuck to the bulb, but don’t wash it yet. Dry the onions completely before storing them. Hang them by their stems or place them on newspaper in a single layer. Do not dry in the sun. Spanish onions are very prone to sunburn. Remove flowers as they appear.

Originally developed by Lee Taylor and adapted by Gretchen Voyle. Reviewers Bridget Behe, Jennie Stanger and Mary Wilson. Updated 4/29/09

The Snarky Gardener loves to grow potatoes, although heavy clay soils dominate his northeast Ohio region.

I recently came across an article online about growing potatoes in the Penn State Extension Office garden. I decided to read it through despite having successfully grown her for the past 10 years or so. According to this article (much to my chagrin) I’ve been doing it wrong all along.

“Potatoes do best in soil that is well-drained, loose, and rich in organic matter. Soil that is too sandy, rocky or loamy is not good for potatoes.”

That’s true, but we don’t always have perfect conditions. My research found mention of taters that were formerly used to break up clay soil, particularly in areas previously covered with grass. I believe the process of piling up soil and organic materials around growing plants aids in the soil building process. I’ve used both straw and fall leaves to cover the stems with beautiful results.

“The soil should be tilled at least 10 inches deep or double shoveled and raked. The pH for growing potatoes is around 5.5 to 6.0, which is lower than most vegetables because potatoes prefer more acidic soil.”

Um – I don’t usually till and all that shoveling and raking sounds like work to me. I usually just dig a small hole or use my hoe to go east and west to make a furrow. Then I drop seed strands in and cover them with soil and/or leaf mulch. pH has never been a big issue for my little garden spirit.

“Seed potatoes or supermarket potatoes should not be used as seed potatoes, only use certified seed potatoes that are government inspected.”

This rule isn’t usually broken unless I’ve dumped stored potatoes and extra soil to bury them in. I’ve been known to plant a variety of potatoes I’ve seen at the farmers market when I haven’t seen them anywhere else. That being said, I recommend buying certified seeds whenever you can.

Potatoes need 1.5 inches of water per week, more during dry periods. Do not water from above, use drip irrigation or a drip hose. Weeding potatoes is essential for disease and pest control, but you can grow potatoes with plastic mulch. The mulch can be cut every 12 inches with a bulb planter and planted by hand in rows about 18 inches apart. Drip irrigation works well with this planting method.

I usually only water my garden when we are in a drought. Spuds I’ve grown in the past seem to have survived well without the water. Chopping and mounding the dirt around the potatoes naturally keeps the weeds down. Also, I’m not one to use non-organic materials for mulch, but if you’d like, be my guest.

“Potatoes can get early blight, which is small circular brown spots with a target-like spot in the middle. This will kill plants and is caused by plant debris overwintering in the bed you plant them in. Plant rotation is extremely important for potatoes. Do not grow in the same bed for 4 years. Tidy up the garden in the fall.”

I try not to grow members of the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplant, and ground cherries) in the same location for 3 years, which is the minimum time most experts recommend. I can’t always achieve this as I grow LOTS of tomatoes and taters. To keep all this in order I use the planner software GrowVeg.com. This platform lets me know if I’ve grown anything from the same family in a given location in the last 3 years. I don’t always take the advice (especially with legumes like beans and peas), but the nightshade family gets my respect.

“Common scab is caused by a bacterium that can remain in the soil for a long time, even if no potatoes have been planted in that spot. The main cause is decomposing material, e.g. B. Plant material that is not cleaned. Using an acid-based fertilizer can sometimes help, or finding another spot to plant.”

Snarky Gardener tubers were infected with scab a few seasons ago. They tasted good, but there was a problem. After researching the issue and doing a soil test the following year, I traced the problem to a high pH (7.4). I haven’t planted any nightshade in that area since then, nor have I seen scabs on my taters anywhere else.

My takeaways from the Penn State Extension Office article:

I’ve been growing potatoes in our loam in Northeast Ohio for the last ten years. Aside from a small general scab issue, I’ve had little to no problems. I appreciate advice from people who have FAR more experience and knowledge than the Snarky Gardener. The article was written with “maximizing potato yield” in mind. My garden designs tend to minimize labor, ground disturbance (“low-tail”), and “off my property” inputs. This means I may not get the biggest or best harvests, but I will always get something. And isn’t that the goal of every gardener?

I’ve also learned that I’m not good at following directions (never have, never will). For me, gardening is as much an art as it is a science. Not being allowed to try out our own systems and practices takes away the fun of gardening. And I’m all about having a great time in my garden, even if it’s hard work sometimes. Nothing beats growing crops, harvesting produce, and eating meals prepared with foods you grew yourself (even if you don’t follow the directions).

By the way, here’s a really cool interview with Ruth Stout planting potatoes. It’s that easy.

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My childhood home was on a bluff overlooking the Mill Creek Valley near Quincy. The view over the idyllic fields and pastures was probably the reason why my parents bought the property. It’s a sight that still puts me in a trance when I visit family. However, the cliff that our house stood on was made of thick, red gumbo clay!

My parents sent me out with a shovel to dig holes, much to my childhood delight. After all, what better entertainment for a child! I assume now that they knew the ground was so heavy; my digging would not bring me to China as I had hoped. Instead, my holes were only a few inches across. Still, I scraped away with my oversized shovel. Who needs TV when you’ve got a shovel and an active imagination?

Over the years of gardening and landscaping on this property, we have struggled time and time again with the clay soils. It was only after efforts to build raised beds and add organic matter to the land with wood mulch, horse manure and shredded leaves that we began to see a positive response from the garden and landscape plants.

First, some hard truths about clay soil:

Clay soil particles are the smallest soil particles. Sand is the largest particle of soil, with silt falling in the middle. The soil particle shape of clay is flat or plate-like; which means it’s good to stack on top of each other and create a very “solid” floor. Clay is very good at preventing water from entering the soil profile, causing runoff and erosion problems. Clay also holds water very well. Clay soils stay moist longer than other soil types.

All of these factors can create an environment that is unfavorable for some plants or the gardener.

A gardening misconception routinely repeated is digging sand into clay soil to break up the clay structure and allow for better drainage. The idea stems from the fact that if clay is the smallest particle of soil causing poor drainage and sand is the largest particle of soil causing rapid drainage, mixing the two will result in well-drained soil.

Unfortunately it doesn’t work that way.

When sand mixes with clay, a concrete-like soil structure is created. To achieve any real change in a loamy soil texture you would need to add a 1:1 ratio of sand to clay. Considering the actual volume of clay soil underfoot, that equates to a lot of sand.

It is much more practical to use organic matter to break up clay soil. Compost is your best bet, but organic matter can come from other sources like wood mulch, composted manure, shredded leaves, or even cover crops.

And sometimes the best course of action is to accept your lousy soil and use plants that prefer loamy conditions. Yes, these plants exist! Plants like columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), New England aster (Aster novae-angliae), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), blazing star (Liatris), and many others tolerate the sticky, wet mess of clay soils.

I suppose if you go with the sand method it helps having a kid who loves digging holes and doesn’t have the brains to know better.

Garden soil is much more than just dirt. On closer inspection, garden soil is a complex mixture of mineral particles, organic matter, moisture, living organisms and chemical nutrients. One of the most critical factors in a soil’s ability to support plants is its texture, which is determined by the size of the mineral particles it contains.

The ideal soil for gardening is loam or clay soil. It has a broad mix of sand, clay, intermediate mineral particles and a high dose of organic matter. Depending on the size of these soil particles, the texture can range from very porous (sandy) to extremely dense and resistant to water movement (clay).

Clay soil is common in many parts of the United States and can be very problematic when trying to start a flower or vegetable garden. While some trees and shrubs grow well in loam, most annuals, perennials, and vegetables do not have roots strong enough to push their way through dense loam. If spring flowering bulbs are your dream, forget it – most bulbs tend to rot in clay soil over the winter.

However, clay soils can be improved. With some background information and a well thought out strategy, you can grow flowers and vegetables to your heart’s content.

What is clay soil?

Clay soil is soil composed of very fine mineral particles and little organic matter. The resulting soil is quite sticky as there isn’t much space between the mineral particles and it doesn’t drain well at all.

If you’ve noticed that water tends to puddle on the ground instead of seeping in, chances are your soil is clay. Soils that consist of more than 50 percent clay particles are referred to as “sword clay”. To determine if you have clay soil or not, you can do a simple soil test. But chances are you probably already know if you have clay soil. If the soil sticks like glue to shoes and garden tools, forms large clumps that don’t separate easily, and cakes and cracks in dry weather, you have clay.

The Spruce / Sandhya Moraes

Advantages of clay soil

Even clay soil has some good qualities. Due to its density, clay retains moisture well. It also tends to be more nutrient dense than other soil types. This is because the particles that make up clay soil are negatively charged, meaning they attract and hold positively charged particles like calcium, potassium, and magnesium.

Disadvantages of clay soil

In addition to the above disadvantages, clay also has the following negative qualities:

Slow draining

Slowly warm in spring

Easily compacted, making it difficult for plant roots to grow

Tendency to heave in winter

Tendency to be alkaline in pH

The Spruce / Sandhya Moraes

improvement of clay soil

Improving your clay soil will take a little work, but the good news is that the work you do will immediately improve your soil’s structure and make it easier to work with. Most of the work is done once, although some annual work is necessary to prolong soil improvement.

It’s best to improve an entire planting area at a time rather than trying to improve the soil in individual planting holes as needed. If you dig a planting hole in clay soil, then throw a plant in it and just change the soil you use to fill in nicely, your plant will be happy for a while. But you have done nothing more than create a flower pot in the ground. Eventually, the plant begins to send out roots, which are stopped when they reach the clay walls of the planting hole. You will end up with a root bound plant that will not grow as tall or as healthy as it should.

Start by defining the growing area for your garden bed. If you’re improving an existing bed, you can dig up any plants you want to keep and set them aside in pots until your soil improvement is complete. When preparing a brand new bed, you need to go through the basics of starting a new garden bed.

To improve your soil, you need to add 6 to 8 inches of organic matter to the entire bed. You can add any kind of organic material. Grass clippings (as long as they haven’t been treated with chemicals), shredded leaves, rotted manure, and compost are all perfect choices. Spread the organic matter over the earth. This is where manual labor comes into play. The organic matter needs to be mixed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. Digging in and mixing with a shovel is a great way to do this as it moves a lot of soil without pulverizing the soil particles like plowing does. However, if digging is just too hard on your back, using a tiller is a good method.

When you’re done, your garden bed will be a few inches taller than it was originally, but that’s not a problem. Your garden bed will settle throughout the season as the organic matter breaks down. Soil structure will continue to improve as microorganisms in the soil work to break down any organic matter you have added.

The bed can be planted immediately. Plan to add more organic matter in the form of compost once or twice a year. This continues the process of improving the soil structure and compensates for any settlement that occurs.

The spruce

what not to do

Surprisingly, people often imagine that the correct way to improve dense clay soil is to add the opposite type of mineral material – sand. Because loamy soil, which is considered the ideal garden soil, is a mixture of sand and clay. Unfortunately, when sand is added directly to clay, the result is something more akin to concrete. The reason loamy soils are great for plants is that they contain a large proportion of organic matter as a base for sand and clay. Without much organic matter, clay plus sand is like a terrible garden. Clay soils are best improved only by adding compost and other organic materials.

Ongoing maintenance

After a season or so, it’s a good idea to take a soil sample and have it tested to determine if there are any nutrient deficiencies or pH issues. The report you get back will include suggestions on how to further improve the garden. Add in any organic fertilizers or soil amendments detailed in your report, and your bed will be perfect for growing healthy plants for years to come.

Organic matter needs to be added continuously to keep your garden from reverting to its heavy clay state. Fortunately, this becomes a self-fulfilling process as the garden plant material breaks down and soaks into the soil. Instead of cleaning your garden down to the soil line every fall, let leaves and other plant matter naturally rot and become part of the ongoing ecosystem of good garden soil. If your garden is occasionally mulched with more compost, there’s little extra work to do.

Clay soil may not be the preferred soil type for many gardeners. Many believe it is one of the most difficult soils to work with, but it is one of the most nutritious and moisture-retaining soils. It can work wonders for some plants when it comes to gardening.

By growing plants that thrive better in clay, you’ll save a lot of time changing soil or watering. Read more about the top 10 plants for growing in clay soil offered by Nurserylive.

1.The Aster Plant – Stars of the Garden

Buy aster plants

The aster plant does not require good drainage capacity and can easily survive in clay soil. They come in different colors ranging from blue, purple, pink, red, white and violet.

The mixed compost and loam of the loamy soil lends itself well to these star-shaped flowering plants. Asters are sensitive to moisture and do not like sandy soil. Planting a raised bed of aster (purple) for flowering in your gardens would be a delight in late summer and fall.

2. Rudbeckia – the most popular garden plant

Rudbeckia is a colorful daisy-like flowering plant. These perennial flowering plants survive and grow better when sown indoors in warmth.

The Rudbeckia plant tolerates a range of soils including clay soils as they are very moist. Clay soils are very fertile and rich in organic matter. These plants are so adaptable and low-maintenance that they can bloom for years.

3. Hemerocallis – a fluffy addition

Buy Hemerocallis

The Daylily – Hemerocallis looks impressive as part of the garden border. Their sweet scent and fluffy foliage remain attractive at any time of the year. Daylilies are very suitable for damp and waterlogged soil. This is possibly the safest perennial for clay.

They are easy-care plants. They grow short grass in moist soil. Its edible flowers even survive hot summers. Plant them out in spring and enjoy the refreshing sight of a row of white flowers in front of your home all season long.

4. Phlox blooms from spring to autumn

Buy Phlox Mixed Color Flower Seeds

These red beauties carry an ethereal charm. The flowers of the phlox plant bloom all season long. These plants can easily be used to cover your garden with a bed of fragrant blooms and they will attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

It grows well on the clay soil and adapts to the water needs according to the moisture available in the clay soils. Provide a well-drained clay for better growth.

5. Hosta – the most distinctive plant

Buy hosta plant

Hosta plant leaves have a thick layer of two shades that can make anyone happy just looking at them. This admirable plant is ideal for growing in clay soil. The roots of this plant require moisture and nourishment throughout the day. The loaminess of the clay soil helps it soak and absorb moisture for longer.

There are many types of hostas in different textures and green color patterns. They are an extremely easy to care for and perennial plant variety. Luckily, you can grow these distinctive plants in clay soil any time of the year to enhance your garden space.

6. The ever-bright geranium plants

buy geranium

The geranium plant is one of the longest lasting perennials you can find. The beautiful summer pink geranium plant grows well in pots and garden beds.

The clay soil with good drainage capacity, crumbly texture and enriched with organic matter is best for the pink geranium plant. The plant grows well in soil with a pH greater than 6. The loamy soil prevents nutrient leakage and creates compost for the plant roots.

7. Hydrangea – heaven at your feet

Buy hydrangea

Hydrangeas have bubbly looking blooms that are hard to resist. Some of the varieties of hydrangea can survive the moisture present in clay soil. Dig the clay soil very deep and add organic matter to the soil so the plant can beautify your garden.

Hydrangeas grow best in fertilized wetlands. It’s important to grow the hydrangea in a soil type that provides the required moisture levels and has a slow drainage capacity. Undoubtedly, these plants can be trusted with heavier soil types like clay. Other options that can be used are sandy soils as well.

8. Multicolored Hemerocallis – For a bubbly vibe

Buy hybrid Hemerocallis bulbs

The multicolored Hemerocallis plant has dense foliage that looks pretty in soft pink, fairy white, summer yellow and tangerine orange hues.

The Hemerocallis plant is a hard-pressed flower that survives and grows in soil types that can prevent nutrient drainage. The roots of the Hemerocallis plant need moisture and fertile clay soil to fully grow.

Before planting, loosen the solid clay soil so they grow faster. These will make a great addition to your flora collection. Such bold color types also make them a perfect choice for making a bouquet.

9. Honeysuckle Plant – The Treasure

Buy honeysuckle

Honeysuckle plants are known in the gardening community for their long-lasting scent. These deciduous plants require an average amount of soil moisture. They thrive in organically rich, loamy-clayey soils.

Adding natural fertilizers to your clay soil can improve their fertility. They can adapt to the moisture in the soil after a rain. When a gardener loosens the soil with a small plow, it improves water drainage capacity.

10. Heuchera plant – the exotic beauty

Buy Heuchera

Extremely beautiful, dark colored Heuchera can be a distinctive feature of your garden. The Heuchera plant is commonly known as coral bells. The dark colored burgundy Heuchera can thrive in soils with high pH levels.

Full of nutritious clay soil makes the Heuchera plants happier. A large amount of compost in clay soil is beneficial for growth. Enrich the soil with organic matter before planting. Choose this plant to add an unusual color and unique element to your garden area.

In order to get the most out of such soil types, it is important to become familiar with the different plant requirements. There is a wide range of plants that grow well in clay soil.

So, are you curious to see what planting options are available for clay soil?

We hope these NurseryLive plant recommendations have helped you choose your favourites. Read about the plants and their specifications for the best choice. Stay tuned for more details!