How To Fix Late Timing In Bowling? All Answers

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The key to success for the late timing sequence is to have the bowling ball moving into position to start the backswing as the bowler completes the 1st step and not wait until the 2nd step starts.Three common reasons for this are: 1) the ball is too heavy to let it swing through a full arc, 2) the bowler has early timing in the start so the ball is ahead from the beginning, or 3) they do not let the ball swing enough behind them because they are intentionally trying to get the ball to the line too soon.The first rule of bowling adjustments is that you move in the direction of the miss while keeping the same target on the lane. This means that if your ball misses to the left of the intended destination, move left on the approach. If the ball misses to the right of the intended destination, move right on the approach.

  1. Slightly early timing at the foul line.
  2. Feet slightly too slow.
  3. Cutting off the backswing or forcing the ball down too hard.
  4. Body not facing the breakpoint at the foul line.
  5. Walking left or right during the approach (if that is not normal).

Why is my timing off in bowling?

Three common reasons for this are: 1) the ball is too heavy to let it swing through a full arc, 2) the bowler has early timing in the start so the ball is ahead from the beginning, or 3) they do not let the ball swing enough behind them because they are intentionally trying to get the ball to the line too soon.

How do you get out of a bowling slump?

  1. Slightly early timing at the foul line.
  2. Feet slightly too slow.
  3. Cutting off the backswing or forcing the ball down too hard.
  4. Body not facing the breakpoint at the foul line.
  5. Walking left or right during the approach (if that is not normal).

Why do I miss right in bowling?

The first rule of bowling adjustments is that you move in the direction of the miss while keeping the same target on the lane. This means that if your ball misses to the left of the intended destination, move left on the approach. If the ball misses to the right of the intended destination, move right on the approach.

What is early timing in bowling?

If the foot is still sliding as the ball arrives, it is said to be early timing (ball gets to the line in front of the bowler). If the sliding foot has stopped and the ball is not yet at the bottom of the swing, it is said to be late timing (ball gets to the line behind the bowler).

Working Through a Slump

By far the most reactions I’ve ever had to anything from myself relates to the article Mark Hammel and I wrote last December about becoming a transitional bowler. Most of the questions I get are related to the concept of pull and push instead of push and pull to project the ball onto the lane. While all elements are important to becoming a transitional bowler, I believe the concept of projecting the ball down the lane, in an inside-out direction, is one of the most important.

Traditional bowlers were taught to push the ball out and drop it into a muscleless pendulum. We were taught that since the ball was in this muscle-free environment, the backswing was a mirror of the pushaway. The difficulty with this strategy, even in the days leading up to the reactive resin phase, was that once the bowling arm muscles were engaged by knocking out a 15 or 16 pound ball, it was very difficult to fully relax the muscles and let go of the ball were swinging freely. Only a few elites have really been able to achieve this. Those few elites largely became the PBA Tour.

Modern lane conditions and bowling balls require the ball to be projected down the lane at significantly higher ball speeds than was required in the past. Before the advent of reactive resin bowling balls, the average ball speed of PBA pro bowlers was about 16 miles per hour. Today the average is closer to 19 miles per hour.

Traditional bowlers have been taught to increase ball speed in two ways. Because the backswing mirrored the pushaway, holding the ball higher during initial setup would increase ball speed to some extent. Bowlers who didn’t want to change their starting position were encouraged to back away on the approach and take faster strides to increase their ball speed. Both methods were effective, but only to a small extent.

Both traditional bowlers and contemporary bowlers began to find ways to increase both power and ball speed. Coach Joe Slowinski identified the hinge technique as a way to increase backswing height while decreasing the amount of muscle required in the bowling arm. By simply dropping the ball instead of pushing it away, the ball will reach the bottom of the pendulum much faster and with less muscle power. Because an object, when swinging on a pendulum, reaches its maximum velocity at the lowest point, it can easily be pulled back with very little effort (or muscle effort). This small pull at the bottom of the hinge results in a significant increase in backswing height and ball speed.

The slight pull at the bottom of the swing resulted in another benefit of modern bowling: an increase in forward spinal tilt. Much like the idea of ​​the backswing mirroring the pushaway in the pre-Harz days, we were also taught that the spine should remain upright with all the flexing occurring in the knees and not the spine. This, combined with the concept of the thumb leading to the ceiling, resulted in the ball being ‘pitched’, also known as the ‘finger’. As I pointed out last month, modern bowlers using modern bowling balls often drop corner pins or see the ball hook early and nose dive as a result of hitting the ball.

In order to take full advantage of this increased ball speed, it is imperative that the ball be projected down the lane as efficiently as possible. Susie Minshew’s comment in last month’s issue, explaining that the follow-through is “an extension of the bowler’s intent,” fits this concept perfectly.

In order to fulfill the bowler’s intention of projecting the ball further down the lane, two things must happen. First, the bowler must have sufficient spinal tilt to project the ball outwards instead of up, and second, the hand must remain behind the ball longer and pivot through the ball rather than around it. This is called release timing.

Increased release timing is not a matter of late or early as with traditional timing. Traditional timing measures where the ball is in relation to the sliding foot’s stop. If the foot is still slipping when the ball arrives, it’s called early timing (the ball hits the line before the bowler). When the sliding foot has stopped and the ball is not yet at the bottom of the swing, it is said to be late timing (the ball reaches the line behind the bowler). Despite the fact that USBC’s new, modernized vocabulary is less judgmental, referring to early timing as “reel timing”, late timing as “leverage timing” and timing that is neither early nor late as “neutral timing”, the basic concept has not changed.

Trigger timing isn’t a question of early or late, it’s simply a matter of the time that elapses between the point the thumb leaves the ball and the point the fingers leave the ball. Historically, this time was very brief as the hand began spinning around the ball. The transitional bowler rotates his hand through the ball instead of around it, increasing the time the fingers remain on the ball. How much extra time? I really have no way of measuring actual time, but we can extrapolate relative time by analyzing how much forward spinal tilt increases from the point the thumb leaves the ball until the fingers have also stepped out.

The term “release timing” was born in the days after the WSOB Cheetah Championship. I had seen Ritchie Allen dominating much of qualifying on this pattern where projecting the ball onto the lane is just as necessary as any other pattern most of us see.

Sitting behind Ritchie I couldn’t see his traditional timing but I could see his fingers were still in the holes when the ball was a considerable distance in front of him. I thought that made him a perfect example of the early timing that I think is typical of contemporary bowlers. From the side view, where timing can be more easily judged, Ritchie appears to have neutral timing, with the ball and foot arriving at the same time. However, I clearly observed his fingers staying in the ball when the ball was well in front of him and so the release timing was born.

Bowlers who have incorporated a longer release time have reported two benefits. First, everyone reports an increase in ball speed. In some cases this increase is very significant, as in the case of an older bowler I know who increased his ball speed from 15-1/2 mph to 18 mph! The other common result is that you have to move to the right to play the same lane condition. That doesn’t mean the ball is less sticky; it means it’s snagging further down the track. This can be very good in lane conditions where bowlers can play areas of the lane longer before having to face the ball return.

While working with pictured bowler Mike Tucker to modernize his game, I was able to gain some valuable insight into the things I was teaching. Mike is a very accomplished bowler who was able to provide some important feedback on my directions. On the day these photos were taken, our main work was getting Mike to pull the ball back off the bottom of the swing. Interestingly, when Mike could feel the pull, he hadn’t waited for the ball to hit the ground to pull it back. When he actually pulled off the bottom of the swing he couldn’t feel it and threw a really good shot. The other thing I noticed was that when he pulled early or didn’t pull at all, the result was less spinal tilt, more upward motion on release, and more corner pin leaves.

Another effect Mike commented on was that if he could project the ball properly onto the lane, he could see the ball’s slope change as he made his violent turn towards the pocket. This is the effect of keeping the ball in the oil longer and using the dry behind the pattern rather than the dry on the outside of the pattern. He also noticed that he had moved a full arrow to the right with both his feet and his aim.

Watch out Mikey I think he likes it!

How do you get good at bowling?

How anyone can become a better Bowler!
  1. Pick the right ball. A good ball should be comfortable in your hand and weigh about 10 percent of your body weight. …
  2. Choose your spot carefully. …
  3. Develop good timing. …
  4. Hand and wrist action. …
  5. Finish the way the pros do. …
  6. Practice makes perfect.

Working Through a Slump

Are you ready to surprise your friends with your bowling skills? Or do you just want to make sure nobody notices that you don’t know anything about bowling? The great thing about bowling—aside from being one of the few sporting pastimes that allows you to feast on nachos while enjoying a drink or two—is that most newbies get the hang of it quickly.

Let’s review some bowling basics if you’re just learning to bowl.

Choose the right ball

A good ball should be comfortable to hold and weigh about 10 percent of your body weight. In other words, if you weigh 180 pounds, don’t choose the ball that weighs nine pounds. The ball should have some weight.

Choose your place carefully

Those little arrows and dots on the roadway are meant to help guide you. Remember to pick the same spot each time. A smooth movement at the beginning helps with timing.

Develop good timing

Each step in your approach should correlate to where your arm is relative to your swing and where the ball is when you release it. Take the same number of steps each time and focus on where the ball is in relation to those steps.

Hand and wrist action

Throwing a straight ball is one of the first goals for any new bowler. It helps to keep your wrist and arm straight throughout the movement. Beginners often swing their elbows back and forth – a good way to end up with the dreaded gutter ball.

Finish like the pros

Keep your arm and wrist straight and release the ball as it passes your foot. It’s a good idea to have your throwing hand finish at shoulder height or higher. Enough practice and you’ll be able to finish in a balanced position.

Practice creates masters

Your score may not improve dramatically overnight, but if you focus on these tips – and less on the nachos and drinks – you should see improvement over time.

And if you can’t wait to use these tips to bowl your best game ever, please visit North Bowl and get on your way to enjoying the number one sport in America.

How do you fix an early release in bowling?

In order to delay timing at the release, most bowlers need to delay their timing earlier in the swing. This can be achieved by one of two things: lengthening the time to complete the swing, or using faster footwork to shorten the approach.

Working Through a Slump

What used to be called “early timing” is now commonly known as “reel timing.” Roller timing is the result of the swing reaching the foul line before the slide is complete. While there are several examples of bowlers on the PBA Tour who have/had this timing – such as Marshall Holman, Chris Barnes and Robert Smith – timing too early often results in a loss of balance and rpm.

To retard the timing of the release, most bowlers need to shift their timing earlier in the swing. This can be accomplished by one of two things: increase the time to complete the swing, or use faster footwork to shorten the approach.

To lengthen your swing, work on launching the ball later or using more extension on the pushaway. Both can be processed by using the ball start drill. For faster feet, consider leaning more forward in the stance to create more forward momentum during the approach.

The cause of early timing can also be mental. Investigate with a trainer whether too much thinking could cause you to slow down and control your movements.

Where should I aim when bowling?

Focus, but not on the pins.

Instead, pick one of the arrows in the middle of the lane and aim to have your ball roll right over it. If you’re a right-handed bowler, aim for the second arrow from the right. Lefties, aim for the second arrow from the left.

Working Through a Slump

Bowling has a long and thoroughly masculine history.

But if you’re like me, your contribution to this legacy of manhood was nothing special. That said, I’ve been a pretty sad bowler for most of my life. I enjoyed bowling with my friends and reveled in male camaraderie, but being a competitive guy, it was hard to enjoy a game while being thrashed by everyone else.

And I’ve rarely experienced the sheer joy and ecstasy of throwing a strike. There’s nothing quite like seeing all ten of those pins disappear from the lane. So lately I’ve been trying to improve my game. With practice, reading, and advice from people who regularly strike, I’ve been able to improve my strike ball. I don’t bowl perfect games by any means, but I get three or four strikes in a game now.

To help my struggling fellow bowlers, I’ll share a few tips on how to bowl a strike.

Be flexible. Flexibility and adaptability are essential to consistent bowling strikes because every lane you bowl at is different. Why? Have you ever crossed the foul line and found yourself on your butt? This is because bowling lanes are oiled and the amount of oil and how it is distributed around the lane can vary from lane to lane. Heck, the oil pattern on a single lane can change during gameplay. Changes in oil quantity and pattern can cause your ball to break differently. So be prepared to adjust your approach.

The key is in the pocket. The key to consistent shots is to angle the ball into the “pocket.” For a right-handed bowler, the pocket is between the one-pin and three-pin. For a left-hander, it falls between the one-pin and two-pin.

Choose a lighter ball. Yes, I know. You want to show off your manly strength by hurling an 18-pound ball down the lane like the thunder god Tor. And yes, it’s fun to see the pins fly in the air when a heavy ball hits them, but if you want bowling strikes, consider going a little lighter. To throw punches you want the pins to hit each other and not just fly up in the air. Heavy balls make pins fly in the air; lighter balls make the pins hit each other. Today, many pros use the 14 1/2 or 15 pound balls because of the advantage that lighter balls offer. Go on. Use this girl ball without shame.

Concentrate, but not on the pens. The pens are your target, but you don’t want to focus or aim at them. Instead, choose one of the arrows in the middle of the lane and aim for your ball to roll directly over it. If you’re right-handed, aim for the second arrow from the right. Left-handed, aim for the second arrow from the left. Since most of the lane oil is in the center of the lane, throwing your ball out will give it more traction down the lane.

Align your approach. In front of the foul line you will see three rows of dots running parallel to the lane – one row just in front of the foul line and two rows slightly behind. Use one of these last rows to line up your approach to the foul line (which one you choose depends on how many steps you take before releasing the ball). If you’re right-handed with a slight hook, place your left foot directly to the right of the center point. If you are left-handed, your right foot should be placed directly to the left of the center point.

If you consistently hit the pocket with this approach, you’ve found your bat. Keep approaching from this point. If you miss left, move slightly left on approach. If you miss right, go right. Yes, that seems kind of counterintuitive, but a right bowler misses the left because their ball hooks too early. The same applies to a left-hander. Moving in the direction you missed and aiming the same arrow will propel the ball farther down the lane before snagging the pins. Try it. It works out.

Make your approach. Begin your approach to the line. The four-step approach is the most common approach used by the pros, but if the Fred Flintstone Twinkle Toes thing works for you, then go for it. Keep an eye on your aiming arrow at all times and make sure you walk in a straight line.

Keep your arm straight. As you swing back, keep your arm straight and close to your body. Your hand should reach shoulder height.

step of power! The power step is the penultimate step in your approach and gives your body a little extra momentum, increasing the leverage of your arm swing and allowing you a greater release of the ball. If you’re right-handed, your power step will be with your right foot. Left, with the left. Your power step leg should have a nice bend that will help you slide onto your left foot. Be careful not to cross the foul line!

Release the ball at the bottom of your downswing. You want to schedule the release at just the right time. Too early and you may lose speed, too late and you will make the ball bounce.

bend it. Remember that for bowl strikes we want the ball to hit the pocket and to do that effectively we need some curve to our throw. This will take some practice to perfect, but here’s some general advice to get you started. If you’re right-handed, rotate your thumb to a 10 o’clock position as you release the ball. If you’re left-handed, rotate your thumb to a 2 o’clock position. This gives your ball a bit of spin as it races towards the pins.

follow through. A mistake many new bowlers make is not to continue after releasing the ball. If you don’t get through, the ball’s rotation will be reduced and consequently accuracy will be reduced. As soon as you release the ball, keep your arm in the pendulum motion until your hand is above your head.

be like frank Take it easy. No rush. It’s easy to get in a hurry, especially when you’re getting nervous. Ensure a slow and smooth approach and release.

Fist Pump/Air Pistols/Jesus Quintana Dance. Revel in the sweet sound of a strike with a celebratory fist bump. Or you can take the classic Pistol Pete air pistols and pretend to shoot all the pins with your fingers. Better yet, do the Jesus Quintana Dance out of the Big Lebowski:

Where should I stand when bowling?

A good rule of thumb for a right-handed bowler is to place the inside of your left foot on the center dot, and for a left-handed bowler to do the same with the right foot. Then stand with the other foot slightly behind it and about 2 inches apart.

Working Through a Slump

Now that you know what to aim for when bowling, it’s time to learn proper stance, which is crucial to ensure a good approach and release of the bowling ball. This article will get you started by explaining how to properly set up for your shot.

Distance from the foul line

Since you want to release the ball right at the foul line (without crossing it, of course), you need to make sure you start at the right distance. Luckily, the lane markings in the approach area will help you and you can find the right spot with a simple exercise.

Walk to the end of the approach area and stand approximately 2 inches from the foul line, facing away from the lane. Then take 5 regular steps back to the seating area. This is the distance you should start with.

Put your feet up

At this point, use the guide points and the boards to line up your feet. Your starting point should be the same for every first ball you throw.

Because every bowler has a slightly different trajectory, some bowls being relatively straight and others hooking the ball into the pocket, there are no easy answers as to where to place your feet.

A good rule of thumb for a right-handed bowler is to place the inside of his left foot on the midpoint, and for a left-handed bowler to do the same with his right foot. Then stand with the other foot slightly behind and about 2 inches apart.

As with many things in bowling, you will adjust your foot placement based on trial and error.

Correct posture

Assuming you know the basics of the bowling grip, put your fingers in the ball and use your non-bowling hand to support it from underneath. Now it’s time to get your body in the right position for a good bowling delivery.

Your posture should be relaxed, upright and balanced. Your knees should be slightly bent, as stiff joints will not move as easily. Keep your head up and stare straight ahead at your target.

You should be holding the ball at about waist height, although the exact position depends a bit on the bowler. Feel free to hold it a little higher if that feels more comfortable, as long as you don’t hold it all the way up your shoulders. Never hold a ball below your waist.

Most importantly, be sure to keep the ball on the same side of your body as your bowling hand. (That means right-handed bowlers should hold it to the right.)

Many bowlers like to keep the ball centered, but this is problematic because it forces you to move your arm in an uneven plane. As you will learn, the bowling motion shot is like a pendulum, and keeping the ball to the side facilitates a smooth shot.

Next article: Mastering the Bowling Approach

How do bowling timings work?

This can be achieved by one of two things: lengthening the time to complete the swing, or using faster footwork to shorten the approach. In order to lengthen the swing, consider working on a later ball start, or using more extension in the pushaway.

Working Through a Slump

What used to be called “early timing” is now commonly known as “reel timing.” Roller timing is the result of the swing reaching the foul line before the slide is complete. While there are several examples of bowlers on the PBA Tour who have/had this timing – such as Marshall Holman, Chris Barnes and Robert Smith – timing too early often results in a loss of balance and rpm.

To retard the timing of the release, most bowlers need to shift their timing earlier in the swing. This can be accomplished by one of two things: increase the time to complete the swing, or use faster footwork to shorten the approach.

To lengthen your swing, work on launching the ball later or using more extension on the pushaway. Both can be processed by using the ball start drill. For faster feet, consider leaning more forward in the stance to create more forward momentum during the approach.

The cause of early timing can also be mental. Investigate with a trainer whether too much thinking could cause you to slow down and control your movements.

Timing in Bowling. What is Good, Late, and Early Timing?

Timing in Bowling. What is Good, Late, and Early Timing?
Timing in Bowling. What is Good, Late, and Early Timing?


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Late Bowling Timing

Late timing usually means the bowler lets the ball land at the top of the backswing when the 3rd step is complete. Then the forward swing must hurry to reach the bottom of the arch so the release can occur before the final slide step is complete.

In this type of pushaway motion, the bowler takes the first step and then pushes the ball into the swing. Often the bowler holds the ball motionless in front of the body while taking the first step, delaying the time sequence.

When this happens, these bowlers should be careful not to rush their stride in order to allow enough time for the swing to complete a full swing cycle. All the while maintaining your balance and letting the release happen without rushing or coercion.

This type of pushaway motion is very common among bowlers who resist an aggressive swing motion and prefer a slower, more cautious swing motion.

Late timing can be recognized when the bowler completes step 3 and the bowling ball is still moving to the top of the backswing.

The key to success for the late timing sequence is having the bowling ball move into position to start the backswing as the bowler completes the 1st step, rather than waiting for the 2nd step to begin.

It’s also important for late-timing bowlers not to rush their strides, allowing the momentum to catch up with the strides and allowing the bowler to get into the final slide step with some time to make an accurate delivery.

Because the approach is designed as a continuous and organized motion, it is important for late-timing bowlers not to delay the start of the pushaway motion relative to the 1st step and not to prevent the ball from swinging freely into the backswing motion

A late timing swing is typically a controlled arm movement that uses more tension than an early timing free fall gravity swing technique.

A late timing swing is typically a controlled arm movement that uses more tension than an early timing free fall gravity swing technique.

Because the approach is designed as a continuous and organized motion, it is important for late-timing bowlers not to delay the start of the pushaway motion relative to the 1st step and not to prevent the ball from swinging freely into the backswing motion

It’s also important for late-timing bowlers not to rush their strides, allowing the momentum to catch up with the strides and allowing the bowler to get into the final slide step with some time to make an accurate delivery.

The key to success for the late timing sequence is having the bowling ball move into position to start the backswing as the bowler completes the 1st step, rather than waiting for the 2nd step to begin.

This type of pushaway motion is very common among bowlers who resist an aggressive swing motion and prefer a slower, more cautious swing motion. Late timing can be recognized when the bowler completes the 3rd step and the bowling ball is still moving up the backswing.

When this happens, these bowlers should be careful not to rush their stride in order to allow enough time for the swing to complete a full swing cycle. All the while maintaining your balance and letting the release happen without rushing or coercion.

In this type of pushaway motion, the bowler takes the first step and then pushes the ball into the swing. Often the bowler holds the ball motionless in front of the body while taking the first step, delaying the time sequence.

Late timing usually means the bowler lets the ball land at the top of the backswing when the 3rd step is complete. Then the forward swing must hurry to reach the bottom of the arch so the release can occur before the final slide step is complete.

Late timing bowlers usually start running before they get the bowling ball into the arc of the swing. This type of timing move gets the ball rolling when the 2nd step is complete, causing the bowler to go very slowly so as not to rush the downswing and force the ball into the forward swing.

How Flawed Timing Impacts Accuracy and What to Do About It – Bowlers Journal International – Professional Bowling Magazine

BY MICHELLE MULLEN

When bowlers come to class, it’s common to hear that they’re having trouble hitting their target. As a rule, this has nothing to do with a lack of concentration. Rather, it has to do with their timing, which affects their leverage at the line.

Sometimes it’s not so obvious why you’re missing something. When I was taking my Bronze level coaching test, I missed a question. Of course I argued for my answer.

The Question: If a right-handed bowler is late, how does he miss his target?

My answer was “left”. The answer they were looking for was “correct”. This is a great prelude to the topic of this column.

I answered “left” because at the time of the exam I had already been working as a trainer for many years. I had seen many bowlers, when they were late, correct their timing by dragging the ball to get it back in time – and therefore missing their target to the left. But the test asked which way a bowler misses without accepting the correction, so the answer was “right.” I didn’t read the assumption into it.

To this day, I see many bowlers miss on the left when they’re late because that’s when they pull the ball, but I agree that those who don’t make the correction to catch up their momentum actually miss on the right. However, when bowlers miss to the left, it’s not always because they’re late, it’s often because they’re early.

These days, when bowlers are warming up for their lesson and I see they’re timing early on the line, I make the jump and ask them if they tend to miss their target on the left. They usually confirm that they do. Then they go on to explain that they pull the ball all the time. I have something to explain.

So, if a bowler can miss the left if he’s late because he ends up pulling the ball, how come he can miss the left if he’s early?

There are two reasons a player may miss on the left: 1) because he is late and draws, or 2) because he is too early and lacks leverage to project the ball.

Let’s return to a previous column (and a concept I address at the beginning of my book) regarding timing on target. Should…

the ball be there in front of you? Will you be there before the ball? You and the ball be there together?

While many choose C (which was a good answer years ago when equipment was weaker and bowlers generally needed to bowl the ball more directly into the pocket), the correct answer is B.

But remember, we’re talking about fractions of a second here. Although the timing varies from bowler to bowler depending on the style, this question alludes to the sequential movement of the body to generate power and balance on delivery. Essentially, we get power from the legs up.

I use the analogy of the baseball bat taking a step before swinging or the pitcher coming up with his lower body before throwing. The body precedes the object it projects for leverage and power. So when bowling, get your body on the line just before the ball – again, especially with today’s more powerful equipment compared to years past when the balls barely hooked. (Back then, people wanted things “together” on the line.)

So if a player is early, the ball will hit the line too early, causing the shoulders to close on the release. If the shoulders close because the ball is in front of the body, you miss on the left because your shoulders are no longer open to project the ball like the player in the test question who misses on the right when he’s late because his shoulders too late are too open on the line.

Also, if you’re early to the line and your shoulders are closed – because the ball is there early, not because you pulled it – it affects release and your ability to maintain balance. As your shoulders close, the hand tends to wrap around the side of the ball – ironically similar to pulling the ball down.

Timing it early, as your shoulders close, so does your hand. It’s not from the pull; It comes from a bad finishing position that leads to a lack of leverage on the line. And if you’re early enough, you literally can’t balance because you don’t have time to do it.

I see this problem often, especially in those who have been bowling for a long time. While there was a day when timing worked, with today’s gear you want to be able to project those balls that hook so much more than those of the past because they have much stronger covers and cores.

Typically the solution is to generate more momentum, giving the body more time to reach the line before the ball. Players who come early usually start the ball too early. Or they help the ball back on the swing too quickly and/or don’t swing it behind them enough to get to the line in front of the ball.

Three common reasons for this are: 1) the ball is too heavy to swing through a full arc, 2) the bowler has early timing at the start so the ball is ahead from the start, or 3) he is letting the Not swinging ball to ball behind them enough because they are intentionally trying to put the ball on the line too soon. That’s why understanding the desired timing at the line is so important. In my book, I go into much more detail about the causes of early timing and how to fix it.

As I said before, a mentality shift is definitely needed to adjust the timing. If the bowler who started early gets a later start, he is likely to simply get the ball from the top of the backswing to the release point because his body out of habit wants to get the ball on the crease earlier. Understanding that you want to be there ahead of the ball is key to relaxing your downswing while timing later in the beginning.

The ball is heaviest for you when it is farthest from you. To understand this, just take your ball and hold it to your stomach like a book. Then push it away from your body and hold it. It’s much harder for you when it’s away from your center of gravity. So if your ball is too heavy for you, you will have a hard time pushing it away and making it swing higher behind you. A light ball might help.

Also make sure you have a good ball seat. A poor fit or a loose thumb hole will make the ball appear heavier than it is. Additionally, a poor fit will force you to grip, creating tension in your arm and making it difficult to swing.

So to correct missing links due to the early timing problem at the line, generate more momentum. Create a larger, more patient arc that gives your body time to reach the line in front of the ball. This gives you the projection on target that you were missing – not because you pulled, but because your timing closed your shoulders.

Michelle Mullen is a USBC Gold Level Coach and the author of two books, Bowling Fundamentals and How to Pick Up Spares. Her teaching column, Foundation Frame, appears bi-monthly in Bowers Journal International. To subscribe now for much more of the industry’s best bowling news coverage and incisive teaching tips and analysis go here: https://www.bowlersjournal.com/bowlers-journal-subscriptions/

Working Through a Slump

Every bowler at every level goes through a slump every now and then. A slump isn’t just one bad night on the lanes or one bad tournament, it’s multiple bad nights or tournaments. It’s not uncommon to hear a bowler say that he or she has been in a crisis for several weeks or even months, and I’ve seen many bowlers back out of frustration.

dr Dean Hinitz wrote an article in the May 2013 issue of BTM entitled Slump Busting: Figuring Out Your Way, Beginning With an Inventory. In this article, Dr. Hinitz: “Waiting for a bowling weather change might work, but it’s an extraordinarily passive approach to changing your life. There is no reason to wait for your destiny to change when you can actually control your future.”

I couldn’t agree more. Note that his prescription isn’t to take two weeks off and quit, but to take a mental and physical inventory so you can see what’s missing. I’ll leave the mental inventories to Dr. Hinitz for being the best of the best at that part of any athlete’s game. I will be working on an inventory or checklist for the physical side of your game.

Maybe with the help of this checklist you can shorten your next slump or end the one you’re in the middle of. Nothing can shorten a slump faster than a good coach. So if you have this resource available, by all means make use of it. If you’re a tournament bowler, paying a coach $100 to heal makes a lot more sense than wasting $1,000 or more on entry fees and expenses while waiting for things to change.

What are burglaries not

Break-ins are no excuse for a lack of skill. As a professional bowling coach, I have had the pleasure of helping many bowlers overcome crises. Bowlers ranging in skill levels from the PBA and USBC Halls of Fame to champion youth bowlers are all getting into slumps. I can tell when a bowler is in trouble and when a bowler is simply lacking in skill. I’ve been told many times by bowlers that they’ve been in a slump for months, although I know full well they’ve never reached the skill level they proclaim they’re slumping at.

I’m always willing to help any bowler, but we have to be honest with ourselves about our skills. If you are really in a trough, it means you are operating at a level well below what is normal for you and not below what you would like to be at.

What are burglaries

Dips are the result of one or more changes that cause you to operate at below-average levels for an extended period of time. Slumps aren’t bugs you catch like a common cold, but they can infect your game without warning. You can’t feel the slump; there is no runny nose or scratchy throat to notice. The slump is slow to creep into your game. One day you will suddenly realize that bad bowling is not an occasional thing, it is becoming the norm and most of the time you have no idea why.

There is always a reason for the burglary, something has changed. You just didn’t forget how to bowl one day, even though it sometimes feels like it. Sometimes you haven’t even changed; Maybe something in your environment has changed.

A burglary checklist

To work your way through the slump, you need to figure out what’s changed (remember it can be more than one thing). Most of the time, one negative change can cause other negative changes to follow. I created a checklist to narrow down the possibilities.

Are you reaching your goals?

Note that I said goals, not goal. Today’s game pretty much requires us to have a goal in mind and a goal near the breakpoint known as the breakpoint target. For example, the third arrow is a single point that can be traversed in any direction. When lane conditions require you to cross the third arrow and hit the seven-board at the breakpoint to generate strikes, shots that hit the third arrow but only go to the ten-board will generate more splits than strikes.

If you don’t know the answer to this question, you may have already solved your problem; it’s a simple lack of concentration. I’ve never been one to suggest bowlers stare a hole into their target with the thought that they might force themselves to hit it, but you need to focus on the game.

You need to focus not only during setup and approach, but also after delivery. Focusing on the ball as soon as it leaves your hand is the only way to gather information, such as:

All of this information is important to help you overcome a slump and make adjustments to the ever-changing road conditions. If you find yourself focusing on your front target and your eyes glaze over just after passing the ball, you’ll never know if you hit your breakpoint target or not. In order to get better, sometimes we just have to pay attention longer.

I’ve seen multiple matches on ESPN get lost because a bowler missed the hold point (without realizing it) causing the ball to fly high. The bowler makes a line adjustment on the next shot, thinking the lane would hook sooner. In this case, the line change is premature, so the bowler usually loses the rest of the game, losing the match by the ninth frame.

How do I know this happened? I know because I usually see the first miss inside the break point that causes the ball to go up. The sure sign my suspicions are correct is when the bowler moves back to where he originally was, nails his breakpoint, and hits in the ninth and tenth frames…too little, too late.

If the answer to the above question is no, this mostly eliminates environmental changes and focuses the problem squarely on your physical game. There must be at least 50 ways that something can go wrong in the physical game that can cause a bowler to start missing targets. Here are some of the most common.

Missing breakpoint target (but not the front target):

Slightly early timing at the foul line.

Feet a little too slow.

Clip the backswing or push the ball down too hard.

The body does not face the hold point at the foul line.

Walk left or right during the approach (if this is not normal).

Squeezing the ball too hard, either out of habit or through an ill-fitting thumb hole (need one piece of tape or four?).

Ill-fitting thumb hole causing thumb not to come out cleanly (tape too high in hole or to one side?).

No crossover step or crossover too far.

Trying to put too much “stuff” on the ball (more on that later).

Missing the front target:

Early timing on the line.

feet too slow.

First step too short or too long.

Swing out of alignment.

No crossover step or crossover too far.

Clip the backswing or push the ball down too hard.

Squeezing the ball too hard, either out of habit or through an ill-fitting thumb hole.

Ill-fitting thumb hole causing thumb not to come out cleanly (tape too high in hole or to one side?).

Are you stable at the foul line?

If you are normally well balanced at the foul line, are you falling off your shot now? Check your slide step. Often a bowler will just stop stepping in on that last step. You need to step inward so your glide foot lands in the center of your body to balance on the line. This is sometimes referred to as filling the hole.

I believe your slide toe should be pointing at or slightly within the breakpoint you want to hit. If your slide toe is pointing far out from your anchor point, you are less stable. If your foot is in this position, it could be an indication that you are throwing the ball too hard or your approach is too fast.

If your timing is the culprit, it’s most likely too soon. This means the ball hits the foul line too soon, maybe before your sliding foot.

Is your ball spinning as usual?

I’m a strong proponent of always watching your ball spin as it travels down the lane. Learning to quickly focus on your ball as soon as it leaves your hand will help you determine the ball’s axis of rotation, axis tilt, and RPM. As you learn to recognize the rotational characteristics of your ball, you will know if any of these things have changed. If one of the characteristics of your ball roll changes unintentionally, it can drastically change your ball reaction.

The most common causes of a change in your ball roll are:

Earlier point in time.

An ill-fitting thumb hole that causes you to over-grip the ball or prevent a clean release.

Spin the ball too soon.

Spin the ball with the sides of your fingers instead of the pads of your fingers. Bonus tip: look at your fingers and see if you develop calluses on the sides. Bowlers with calluses on the sides of their fingers usually have too much axial tilt and often turn the ball too early.

Tournament Bowlers: It is not uncommon for only adverse ball roll changes to occur during tournaments. This makes surviving tournament slumps particularly difficult since the problems never arise during practice.

When adverse ball roll changes only happen during tournaments, it’s usually because bowlers are trying to put too much “stuff” on the ball. Tournament novice bowlers are always trying to give the ball that extra pop, lift, or punch (you choose your term) with their fingers so the ball can knock down all 14 pins. Let’s add a little more ball speed and punch while we’re at it, for good measure.

This may shock you, but even in tournaments, there are still only 10 pins in a rack. If revs don’t come naturally to you and you’re trying to get more stuff on the ball, stop. Chances are, you’re doing yourself more harm than good. If you’re a born rev monster, you might want to soften up a bit on sport shots for tournament play. This will greatly reduce your potential for under/overball reaction, the number one killer of tournament results.

Did you change your swing?

The shape of our swing can sometimes change without us knowing. Try these things to see if you can create a more effective shape:

Hold your ball in different places.

Push your ball in different directions.

Wait for the ball at the top of the swing. (Waiting for the ball at the top is probably the #1 swing killer).

Videotape a game or two and make sure every pushaway looks the same.

Use videos to analyze your game. It seems that everyone now has a smartphone or some kind of tablet. These can be used to record appropriate videos in most cases. If you don’t have any of these new gadgets, I bet one of your friends does.

Is your footwork consistent?

Remember that your footwork not only has a big impact on your timing, but also on the shape of your swing.

Video your footwork over a few games to make sure every step goes where it’s supposed to go.

Make sure you slide on the same board every time. Sometimes our feet just get lazy and tend to wander around.

Are you trying too hard?

Simply trying too hard leads to many competitive failures. The more important the competition, the harder you try. Unfortunately, trying too hard can cause you to tighten the arm swing, put more weight on the ball, and often throw the ball harder. To see if you’re a likely victim of overexertion, compare your punching power during your ten minutes of practice with your first ten minutes of competition.

When is a burglary not a burglary?

A slump is not a slump when something changes in your bowling environment that is beyond your control. I’ve seen bowlers think they’re in trouble just because the shot has changed in their league and their scores are suffering. Perhaps the signalman performed or missed a service on the oiling machine.

I’ve also seen bowlers falter simply because their equipment became soaked in oil and their balls lost all the reaction they once had. The old adage “You can’t outsmart a bad ball reaction” is certainly true.

I’ve actually seen bowlers’ physical games deteriorate as they try to get the balls going. If the bowler doesn’t realize that his old ball is no longer sticking, he assumes that he and not the ball stopped play.

If your equipment isn’t working or something else in your bowling environment is dragging your scores down, you’re not in a crisis. However, trying to rectify the situation by changing your physical play can certainly create one.

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