How To Flatten Exhaust Pipe? The 128 Correct Answer

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Can you drive a car with a bent exhaust?

1. The Toxic Exhaust. The possibility of toxic exhaust fumes leaking into your car’s ventilation system represents the largest reason for not driving with a broken or damaged muffler. You put yourself and others in serious – and potentially fatal – danger if this occurs while you drive.

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

Many people wonder if it’s okay to drive around with a damaged or broken muffler. Some people even assume that there are situations when it’s okay to ride with a muffler hanging halfway down, taped on, or no muffler at all. Here are just a few of the reasons why you should never ride with a damaged muffler.

1. The toxic exhaust

The possibility of toxic exhaust fumes entering your car’s ventilation system is the number one reason not to drive with a broken or damaged muffler. You are putting yourself and others in serious – and possibly fatal – danger if this happens while driving.

A damaged muffler doesn’t always indicate a problem with your entire exhaust system, so chances are you’re missing out on this particular hazard. Nevertheless, you should not take any risks with it.

Even without an exhaust leak, the carbon monoxide that your muffler normally emits and carries away from your vehicle can still rise and enter your car. CO can cause dizziness, headaches and nausea when inhaled. These are all things that you want to avoid in general and especially when driving. In extreme cases, you or someone else can lose consciousness completely.

2. The terrible smell

The CO from the tailpipe is just one of the gases your car produces. While CO has no odor, the noxious smell of these other gases will irritate you.

In some cases, people may find the odor itself repulsive, even if they are not directly at risk from the toxins in the exhaust fumes. Exhaust odors that your muffler doesn’t eliminate can become a dangerous distraction while driving.

3. The terrible noise

Your muffler reduces the noise level of your car engine. A damaged or broken muffler can create noise that can really distract you while driving. The noise, often referred to as an exhaust hum, can cause legal problems for you too. Many municipalities issue fines to drivers with broken, noisy mufflers.

The sound of a damaged muffler can also cause hearing problems for people inside the car as well as those who hear it outside the car. Cases of permanent hearing loss do occur, particularly among vehicle occupants who spend significant time in the vicinity of noise.

4. The reduced fuel consumption

Your defective muffler can affect the effectiveness of your exhaust system. The broken part can prevent your car from effectively extracting the exhaust gases from your engine and will adversely affect the performance of your car engine. In return, your car produces higher emissions and loses fuel consumption.

The longer this goes on, the more damage your car will take. You pay more for gas and consumables because you have to fill up more often. You’ll also pay more for repairs if you turn the exhaust problem into an exhaust problem or the exhaust problem into an engine problem.

5. The environmental damage

Your muffler helps reduce air pollution caused by your car. The environment doesn’t just mean the natural world around you. The environment also means the people who populate the world.

Your muffler doesn’t directly reduce emissions, but it’s an important part of the system that does it. A failing muffler can reduce the effectiveness of your exhaust system in a number of ways, resulting in greater toxic emissions from your car. These emissions can harm your family, friends and anyone who is near your car while it is running.

There are other reasons not to drive with a damaged silencer. However, each of these reasons alone should give you the incentive to have your muffler repaired and the exhaust system checked immediately.

How do you flatten a square tubing?

To do this, right-click on an interior face of the tube and click Select Tangency. The Power Select command will select a few too many faces and the faces of the bends to be flattened must be deselected by clicking on both the inner and outer faces of the bend. Finally, select Delete and Patch.

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

This topic grew out of a recent customer question on how to get a flattened or unbent version for bent square tubing. Her goal was to get an unbent length to work with and locate holes along the pipe. The easiest way to achieve this for both native SOLIDWORKS and imported parts is to use the Insert Sheet Metal Bends tool to smooth the main bends.

It should be noted that this article is part 1 of a two-part series and is geared towards “simple” bent tubing or tubing that is only bent in one plane, as pictured above. For more complex cases (e.g. bends in multiple planes as shown below) please read part 2 of the series (coming soon). However, please start reading this article as it covers important pre- and post-processing techniques used in Part 2.

Disclaimer: The calculations performed by SOLIDWORKS to determine material strain or bend allowance are specific to sheet metal construction and may not be accurate for hollow tube/pipe. While this method gives you a better approximation of the unbent length compared to the length of the bent centerline (the sketch that would be used for a Weldments part), consider creating test parts to determine an appropriate bend allowance value for the most accurate results to determine.

Before turning the design into a sheet metal part, some pre-processing is required. The first step is to remove any extra rounded faces of the pipe, since the Insert Bends command will take these sheet metal bends into account. Also, any end cuts on the tube must be removed/suppressed as these will result in a shortened tube after flattening.

To remove excess curved faces, you can use power select to quickly select all faces and use the Delete Face command to remove them. Open Power Select from the Select drop-down menu.

Select faces in the Choose what section. In the Filters and parameters box, scroll all the way down and select Surface type. Select cylinder, cone and torus. Click New Search to find and select all faces that meet these criteria, and then click Close. This keeps the selection intact.

Now start with the Erase Face command. These can be found in the right-click menu under Faces, the Edit in Place or Faces command manager tabs, or Insert > Face > Delete Face.

All internal surfaces of the pipe must be selected in the PropertyManager. To do this, right-click an inner surface of the pipe and choose Select Tangency.

The power select command selects a few faces too many and the faces of the bends to be flattened must be deselected by clicking on both the inside and outside faces of the bend. Finally, choose Erase and Patch.

At this point, the Insert Bends tool located on the Sheet Metal tab of the Command Manager can be used. Start Insert Bends and select a flat face that is along the same set of faces as the bends to be flattened. Click Ok and the process is complete.

Note that if the bent tube must have features such as holes or end cuts, converting it to sheet metal removes these features. After using the Insert Bends tool, these entities can be recreated by reusing the sketches, rearranging the FeatureManager design tree, or using the Convert Entities command (particularly useful for imported parts).

You may also find that the end result does not have the same appearance as the original hose. If this is important, converting elements or reusing the original sketches (depending on how the bent tube was originally created) can be used in conjunction with the “Cut-Extrude” command to fix this.

When using a profile like the one above, be sure to select the Reverse to Cut option in the Cut/Extrude PropertyManager.

At this point you have a part that can be detailed in a drawing while still having parametric control built into the part. Also remember that the Delete Face function needs to be updated as new sections are added to the part. Remember to watch part 2 of this series to see the additional techniques for handling more complex cases. Visit our YouTube channel for more information, request a SOLIDWORKS 3D CAD quote, or contact us at Hawk Ridge Systems today. Thank you for reading!

How can I fix my exhaust without welding?

How to Seal the leak
  1. Apply an Epoxy Bond. If the hole is small enough, you can use epoxy to seal the leak. …
  2. Wrap it with Exhaust Tape. An exhaust tape is an ideal solution if you are dealing with a larger hole. …
  3. Use an Exhaust Clamp. …
  4. Cover the Hole with an Aluminum Patch.

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

How to repair an exhaust pipe without welding

Last updated on

An exhaust leak can affect the smooth running of the engine and result in poor fuel economy. Leaks are usually marked by loud noises. However, they can also cause the engine light to come on or release toxic fumes into the cabin. If your exhaust is severely corroded, you may need to buy a new one. But if you’re only dealing with a small leak, there’s no need to incur unnecessary expense. With locally available materials, you can fix any leak without calling in a welder.

materials

You don’t need to buy expensive materials to seal leaks. You can purchase all of the materials below from your local store without breaking the bank.

gloves

gloves sandpaper

Sandpaper metal wire brush

Metal wire brush soapy water

soapy water putty

Putty muffler bandage

Exhaust bandage exhaust clamp

How to find the leak

Fixing a leak is easy when done right, but it’s usually the hardest part. You can confirm a leak by listening for changes in the noise when the engine is idling. If you are certain the pipe is leaking, use one of the following methods to flush the leak out.

Examine the pipe

Jack up the vehicle and inspect the muffler for signs of holes, cracks, scratches or rust. Speed ​​bumps, potholes and other debris along the road can catch on the exhaust pipe and cause damage. So don’t forget to check the underside of the vehicle for leaks.

If the damage is not visible, run your hand over the pipe with the engine running. If there is a hole, you can tell when the outflowing air hits your hand. However, never put your hand or any part of your body on the hot exhaust surface to avoid burns. Also make sure the brakes are on before sliding under the car.

Plug the tail

Use a pair of gloves to plug the end of your exhaust and start the engine. After making sure the emergency brakes are on, depress the accelerator pedal. Pressure builds up in the exhaust system. And when the only escape route is blocked, the fumes escape through the leaks. You can spray soapy water along the exhaust pipe to spot small air bubble leaks faster.

If you don’t want to keep your engine running, you can create positive pressure in the exhaust system by forcing air into it. A leaf blower, air compressor, or shop vacuum will do. If your vehicle has two exits, make sure you seal one of them first. Also, make sure the engine is cold before pumping cool air into the exhaust. Rapid cooling can deform or crack parts of your vehicle.

preparation

Before attaching the exhaust pipe without welding, you must first clean the area to create a good bonding surface. Use sandpaper or a metal wire brush to remove dirt, grease or rust. Next, use a towel to wipe the surface with isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the areas you just scraped.

How to seal the leak

You can use four different methods to stop a leak. Which one you choose depends on the type and size of the damage. Let’s dive right in.

1. Apply an epoxy bond

If the hole is small enough you can seal the leak with epoxy. Once you’ve cleaned the surface, stir the epoxy to mix it evenly before applying to and around the hole. You can use a wooden dowel to spread the sealant around the affected area. Different products have different curing speeds. So be sure to read the instructions to know how long to let it dry before starting the engine.

2. Wrap it with exhaust tape

An exhaust band is an ideal solution when dealing with a larger hole. Wrap the tape around the hole, making sure it sticks out a few inches on either side. Cover the hole with at least two layers of tape to ensure an effective seal. Because different exhaust tapes require different application methods, be sure to read the instructions beforehand. Some require you to heat the engine first, while others require it to be wet before applying.

3. Use an exhaust clamp

If the hole or damage isn’t big enough, you can cover it with an exhaust clamp. The process is straightforward. You just need to wrap the clamp around the whole thing, attach the screws and tighten to cover the hole. Since the clamp is made of stainless steel, you should expect it to outlast the exhaust pipe.

4. Cover the hole with an aluminum patch

You can use an aluminum patch to cover any size hole. Once you’ve examined the extent of the damage, use heavy-duty scissors to cut a slightly larger patch of aluminum. You may only need to cut a small piece of aluminum for small holes. For larger areas, wrap the aluminum around the pipe for an effective seal.

Cover the area around the leak with epoxy. Apply enough to seal the patch but not so much that it drips down the exhaust pipe. Depending on the damage, apply the patch directly over the leak or wrap it around the exhaust pipe. Next, use a wooden dowel to apply epoxy along the edges of the patch. When you wrap the patch all the way around the pipe, secure it with hose clamps at both ends.

Conclusion

A leak in the exhaust pipe is not only annoying, but also poses many risks. It can fill your cabin with toxic fumes that can make you sick or fall asleep at the wheel. In addition, it can disrupt the normal running of the engine and affect the entire system. Hopefully you have learned about the different ways to identify the leaks and how to fix exhaust pipes without welding.

Luckily, all of the methods listed above are DIY-friendly and don’t require expensive materials. So the next time you find a leak in your exhaust, you won’t have to call in the services of a welder. You can fix the problem yourself without spending a lot of money.

Leaks are also common in car exhaust manifolds and headers. You can read more about it here.

Selected image source: AndrzejRembowski, Pixabay

How do you bend a pipe without creasing it?

How to Bend Pipe Without a Pipe Bender
  1. Step 1: Pack Your Pipe. The first thing to do is to plug one end of the pipe. I used a small carriage bolt that fit snugly in the end. …
  2. Step 2: Bend! Clamp one end to a form. …
  3. Step 3: Finish It Up. Cut the deformed end off.

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

Sand bending has been used to bend tubing of all sizes for decades. Not just little things. You need to wet it to make it compact, but one end (usually the long end away from the bend) needs to be left open whether you use heat or not. If you heat it when sealed it will explode and hot sand burns are no fun (ask a foundry worker). When you bend it, sand has to be shifted and go somewhere, so one end has to be left open.

If you make multiple bends, you’ll need to redeposit the sand between bends or you’ll buckle it. voice of experience. If you look at the intricate designs in F1 exhausts etc from the 70’s and 80’s (pre titanium days) they were all hand made from one piece of pipe.

Can you straight pipe without welding?

If your exhaust pipe corrodes extensively, you may need to buy a new one. But if you are only dealing with a small leak, you don’t have to incur unnecessary expenses. With locally available materials, you can fix any leakage without involving a welder.

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

How to repair an exhaust pipe without welding

Last updated on

An exhaust leak can affect the smooth running of the engine and result in poor fuel economy. Leaks are usually marked by loud noises. However, they can also cause the engine light to come on or release toxic fumes into the cabin. If your exhaust is severely corroded, you may need to buy a new one. But if you’re only dealing with a small leak, there’s no need to incur unnecessary expense. With locally available materials, you can fix any leak without calling in a welder.

materials

You don’t need to buy expensive materials to seal leaks. You can purchase all of the materials below from your local store without breaking the bank.

gloves

gloves sandpaper

Sandpaper metal wire brush

Metal wire brush soapy water

soapy water putty

Putty muffler bandage

Exhaust bandage exhaust clamp

How to find the leak

Fixing a leak is easy when done right, but it’s usually the hardest part. You can confirm a leak by listening for changes in the noise when the engine is idling. If you are certain the pipe is leaking, use one of the following methods to flush the leak out.

Examine the pipe

Jack up the vehicle and inspect the muffler for signs of holes, cracks, scratches or rust. Speed ​​bumps, potholes and other debris along the road can catch on the exhaust pipe and cause damage. So don’t forget to check the underside of the vehicle for leaks.

If the damage is not visible, run your hand over the pipe with the engine running. If there is a hole, you can tell when the outflowing air hits your hand. However, never put your hand or any part of your body on the hot exhaust surface to avoid burns. Also make sure the brakes are on before sliding under the car.

Plug the tail

Use a pair of gloves to plug the end of your exhaust and start the engine. After making sure the emergency brakes are on, depress the accelerator pedal. Pressure builds up in the exhaust system. And when the only escape route is blocked, the fumes escape through the leaks. You can spray soapy water along the exhaust pipe to spot small air bubble leaks faster.

If you don’t want to keep your engine running, you can create positive pressure in the exhaust system by forcing air into it. A leaf blower, air compressor, or shop vacuum will do. If your vehicle has two exits, make sure you seal one of them first. Also, make sure the engine is cold before pumping cool air into the exhaust. Rapid cooling can deform or crack parts of your vehicle.

preparation

Before attaching the exhaust pipe without welding, you must first clean the area to create a good bonding surface. Use sandpaper or a metal wire brush to remove dirt, grease or rust. Next, use a towel to wipe the surface with isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the areas you just scraped.

How to seal the leak

You can use four different methods to stop a leak. Which one you choose depends on the type and size of the damage. Let’s dive right in.

1. Apply an epoxy bond

If the hole is small enough you can seal the leak with epoxy. Once you’ve cleaned the surface, stir the epoxy to mix it evenly before applying to and around the hole. You can use a wooden dowel to spread the sealant around the affected area. Different products have different curing speeds. So be sure to read the instructions to know how long to let it dry before starting the engine.

2. Wrap it with exhaust tape

An exhaust band is an ideal solution when dealing with a larger hole. Wrap the tape around the hole, making sure it sticks out a few inches on either side. Cover the hole with at least two layers of tape to ensure an effective seal. Because different exhaust tapes require different application methods, be sure to read the instructions beforehand. Some require you to heat the engine first, while others require it to be wet before applying.

3. Use an exhaust clamp

If the hole or damage isn’t big enough, you can cover it with an exhaust clamp. The process is straightforward. You just need to wrap the clamp around the whole thing, attach the screws and tighten to cover the hole. Since the clamp is made of stainless steel, you should expect it to outlast the exhaust pipe.

4. Cover the hole with an aluminum patch

You can use an aluminum patch to cover any size hole. Once you’ve examined the extent of the damage, use heavy-duty scissors to cut a slightly larger patch of aluminum. You may only need to cut a small piece of aluminum for small holes. For larger areas, wrap the aluminum around the pipe for an effective seal.

Cover the area around the leak with epoxy. Apply enough to seal the patch but not so much that it drips down the exhaust pipe. Depending on the damage, apply the patch directly over the leak or wrap it around the exhaust pipe. Next, use a wooden dowel to apply epoxy along the edges of the patch. When you wrap the patch all the way around the pipe, secure it with hose clamps at both ends.

Conclusion

A leak in the exhaust pipe is not only annoying, but also poses many risks. It can fill your cabin with toxic fumes that can make you sick or fall asleep at the wheel. In addition, it can disrupt the normal running of the engine and affect the entire system. Hopefully you have learned about the different ways to identify the leaks and how to fix exhaust pipes without welding.

Luckily, all of the methods listed above are DIY-friendly and don’t require expensive materials. So the next time you find a leak in your exhaust, you won’t have to call in the services of a welder. You can fix the problem yourself without spending a lot of money.

Leaks are also common in car exhaust manifolds and headers. You can read more about it here.

Selected image source: AndrzejRembowski, Pixabay

How much does it cost to straight pipe a car?

The average cost for straight piping a car or a truck is around $1,000 to $2,000. This includes the straight pipe kit and the installation charges. If you choose to do it yourself, you’ll save about $100 to $200.

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

Disclosure: We may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Many people are interested in directly piping their car but are unsure of where to start or what the cost might be. To help you learn more about straight piping your vehicle, we’ve done our research to share with you the costs involved.

The average cost of directly piping a car or truck is around $1,000 to $2,000. This includes the straight pipe kit and installation cost. If you choose to do it yourself, you’ll save about $100-$200.

In this blog post, we talk about the cost of directly piping a vehicle and some of the factors that affect the price. We also give you some tips on how to keep the costs as low as possible. So if you’re thinking of piping your car or truck directly, read on for more information!

What is a straight pipe exhaust?

A straight pipe exhaust is a type of exhaust system that uses a series of straight pipes to direct exhaust gases away from the engine. Straight pipe exhaust systems are commonly used in racing cars and high performance cars as they allow the engine to breathe more freely and produce more power.

However, straight pipe exhaust systems can also be quite noisy and may not be legal in some areas. They can also lead to increased vibration and wear on engine components. Therefore, straight pipe exhausts are not suitable for every driver. But for those looking to maximize performance, a straight pipe exhaust can be a valuable addition to their car.

Benefits of straight piping your car or truck

Nowadays it is not uncommon to see a car on the road with a straight exhaust. But why do people choose to pipe their car directly? There are a couple of reasons.

Improvement in horsepower

The main benefit of using a straight pipe exhaust is that you will see increased performance. The system reduces engine back pressure, allowing it to operate unhindered by other systems restricting exhaust flow.

This allows your engine to breathe better. They, in turn, allow gas to flow into the cylinders of your car. This also means better fuel efficiency!

A straight pipe exhaust makes your vehicle stand out from the crowd

If you want to make your vehicle stand out, installing an exhaust system with chrome-plated pipes is a perfect option. The finishing touches on these parts gives it that sleek look and gets people’s attention before they even see what kind of engine power is under the hood!

A two-pipe system can also be selected instead of a sporty look; Both options come with red, blue or green colored welds that enhance the exterior design of any vehicle and emit a great sound.

Appreciate the authentic engine sound of your vehicle

Straight pipes give the car a deeper, more aggressive sound. It often sounds louder than other setups, but they also give you the true sound of your engine. It also increases the attractiveness of your car when you participate in racing games.

Reduce your vehicle’s weight profile

One of the best ways to optimize your fuel economy is to use a straight pipe exhaust. It was specially developed for racing vehicles and racing cars, so you can do without both mufflers and catalytic converters.

Mufflers are heavy components that slow down performance. Removing them gives drivers more freedom to fine-tune their rides. Straight pipes usually weigh less than standard exhaust systems. That means they often perform better too.

Disadvantages of straight piping on your car

It will make your car very noisy

Removing the muffler increases the noise level of your engine. As much as it can increase your vehicle’s appeal, your neighbor might not like it. That’s why you should consider the tolerance of your neighbors and the areas you drive around before piping your vehicle directly.

It can get pretty expensive

The total cost of directly piping your car can put a dent in your budget. Consider that you would have to pay for at least the straight pipe exhaust kit, the equipment and the installation fees. Even if you choose to do your own straight pipe project, the kit and equipment can still be quite expensive.

Decreased resale value

Due to the fact that straight exhaust cars are illegal in certain states and even countries, the resale value of your car will be affected. That’s because certain laws prohibit most types of vehicle customization.

Bad for the environment

A vintage exhaust system has a catalytic converter and muffler to reduce emissions from your vehicle. It also reduces the noise level of your car inside and out. Removing them to install straight pipe harms the environment in two ways. Since you would have to remove them when you were about to pipe your car, this contributes to noise and air pollution.

How much does it cost you to straightpipe your vehicle?

Straight pipe kit

A straight tubing set can typically range from $200 to $1,000. The model and make of your vehicle are the main factor in determining the cost of the kit.

Check out this universal straight exhaust pipe on Amazon.

If you’re looking for a straighter exhaust pipe, consider an aftermarket option. Upgrading your exhaust system offers many benefits including improved performance and weight savings. Aftermarket options are also typically less expensive than stock options.

However, it is important to note that installing straighter exhaust pipes can be more difficult than standard options when it comes to installation. This is because they often require custom mounting brackets and hangers.

installation fee

Installation fees for straight piping on a vehicle are around $200, depending on the mechanic’s skill and experience. If you want to save money, you can also DIY your straight pipe project.

How to pipe your car directly?

Before you start your project, you need to prepare the necessary materials. This includes the following:

Straight pipe kit

tape measure

adjustable wrench

Hacksaw and HSS hacksaw blade

pipe clamps

straight blasted file

Check out this hacksaw set on Amazon.

DIY steps to install straight pipe

Set the pipe length. Use a tape measure to measure the distance between the muffler inlet and the catalytic converter outlet. Allow for an additional 6 inches of length for later connectors. Cut the pipe. Use a pencil to mark the length to be cut. Use the pipe vise to hold the pipe. Then use a hacksaw with an HSS blade to cut the pipe. Use the file to remove the cutting burr. Align and tighten the clamps. During this step you need to make sure your car is parked on level ground. Start at the carburetor or catalytic converter to ensure all parts are aligned. Finally, test your installation by starting the engine to see if there are any leaks or problems.

If you are not sure whether your DIY project went well, you’d better consult an experienced mechanic.

frequently asked Questions

In which states is it illegal to pipe your vehicle straight?

In general, straight piping for your vehicle is permitted on racetracks. However, outside of the racetracks, not all areas are tolerant of straight pipe cars. Some of these conditions include:

Ohio

North Carolina

Florida

Texas

Kentucky

Iowa

Oklahoma

Wisconsin

California

If you live in an urban area, expect to be stopped for excessive vehicle noise.

Is your car’s straight piping reversible?

Straight piping your car is technically reversible. But once you’ve done it, you can’t convert your car back to its stock form. However, if you want to go back to the classic exhaust system, you would have to remove the straight pipe system and install a brand new exhaust system.

How much horsepower does piping bring straight?

Straight pipework on your car can increase your car’s power by 5 to 10 hp.

How does a straight pipeline affect your vehicle?

Straight pipes can damage your engine to some degree. It also increases gas mileage while improving your car’s performance.

Final Thoughts

In the end, straight piping on your car is a personal choice. There are many benefits to doing it yourself, but there can also be consequences if things go wrong. It’s important to weigh all the pros and cons before making a decision. Have you ever piped your car in a straight line? If so, let us know how it went in the comments below!

Since you’re already here, you may be interested in the following articles:

Are exhaust systems universal? [For all vehicles]

Glass Packing vs Straight Tube: What Are the Differences?

Can you straight pipe any vehicle?

Any vehicle can be straight piped. Any vehicle can have its muffler deleted- if it has one. But here are the most common vehicles that we see with straight pipe exhaust or muffler deletes.

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

If you are considering changing the exhaust on your vehicle, you may have considered a straight pipe exhaust or muffler. In this article, we weigh the pros and cons of muffler deletes and straight pipes versus aftermarket performance mufflers.

Before we get into that, let’s define exactly what straight pipes and muffler deletes are.

Deleting a muffler is exactly what it sounds like – it removes your stock muffler and puts an exhaust pipe in its place.

Straight pipes can refer to deleting mufflers, but they can also refer to removing everything in the exhaust system that is not a pipe. These include resonators and catalysts.

Remember: it is illegal to operate a vehicle on the road without a muffler. The same applies to catalysts.

Common vehicles receiving exhaust deletions or “straight pipes”.

Each vehicle can be piped directly. The silencer can be deleted on every vehicle – if present.

But here are the most common vehicles we see with straight pipe exhausts or mufflers.

Modern muscle and sports cars

Modern muscle cars such as Ford Mustangs, Chevy Camaros and Dodge Challengers and Chargers have sets of center and rear resonators/mufflers. This arrangement is also common in sports cars at home and abroad.

On these cars, it is common to discard one or more sets of resonators and replace them with a straight tube.

Although this practice is common, the result is often subpar sound quality. More on that later.

trucks and SUVs

Trucks are probably the most common vehicles that are fully straight cased front to back.

This can lead to very loud noises. But long straight pipes often result in “cackling,” “popping,” and other unwanted noises.

Deleting catalytic converters is also not uncommon, but we do not recommend it as it can negatively affect sound and performance. Not to mention that it is very illegal.

Now let’s move on to the pros and cons…

Advantages of straight pipe exhaust and muffler

High flow, low back pressure

An advantage of straight tubes is that they have very little back pressure. Straight pipes offer better flow than many common performance mufflers. This can be helpful when trying to maximize performance and fuel economy.

However, high quality performance mufflers such as Paradox Performance mufflers provide just as good – and sometimes better – flow than straight pipes.

It’s noisy

Straight whistles are usually loud and often unpleasant.

Loudness can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on taste and application. Sometimes all you need or want is a loud exhaust. Straight whistles can usually deliver loudness, but at the expense of good sound quality.

It s cheap

Getting straight to the point, the biggest advantage of straight pipes and muffler deletes is that it’s the cheapest option.

While quality mufflers cost at least $80, straight pipes can be as low as $20 plus installation.

But here’s the problem (and you’ve probably guessed it): you get what you pay for.

Disadvantages of straight pipes and muffler deletions

Bad sound quality

The sound quality of straight pipes and mufflers is often very poor and simply cannot compete with the sound quality of performance mufflers.

What does that mean specifically? Here are some examples:

“Popping” and “crackling” noises.

“Raspiness” and other fart sounds.

It lacks “depth” and quality bass tone.

Overall uncultivated, unbalanced sound.

It’s noisy

As we’ve said before, volume can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on taste and application.

The problem is that whistles in particular are usually obnoxious in volume.

If you’re intentionally trying to annoy your neighbors and everyone around you, then Whistles might be for you right now.

(Yes, we’ve actually spoken to people whose main goal is to annoy other people!)

If you want the loudness of straight pipes without the poor sound quality, you’re almost certainly better off with a loud performance muffler like the Paradox Hot Tamale.

legality

Make no mistake: It is illegal to operate a vehicle on the road without a muffler or catalytic converter.

Not only that, virtually all locations have excessive noise laws. And like we said before, whistles are loud.

If you drive a vehicle without a silencer, prepare to get a ticket. Maybe even more than one!

Alternatives to straight pipes and muffler deletions

If you don’t want to deal with the downsides that come with straight pipes and muffler deletes, you need an alternative. Luckily there are many.

Aftermarket exhaust systems and mufflers can give you the sound and flow you want without the disadvantages that come with a straight pipe exhaust.

Common aftermarket exhaust manufacturers include Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Borla, Cherry Bomb, Paradox Performance Mufflers and more.

Paradox performance muffler

Paradox Performance mufflers offer industry-leading sound and flow and are made in the USA.

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Greenhouse #1: How to flatten tube ends to be used as struts in trussed greenhouse hoops

Greenhouse #1: How to flatten tube ends to be used as struts in trussed greenhouse hoops
Greenhouse #1: How to flatten tube ends to be used as struts in trussed greenhouse hoops


See some more details on the topic how to flatten exhaust pipe here:

Flattening Pipes – LS1TECH – Camaro and Firebird Forum …

Flattening a round tube to make it an oval, reduces the overall area (volume). If you think about taking it to an extreme, you can picture it. Keep flattening …

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Source: ls1tech.com

Date Published: 7/23/2022

View: 9112

View topic – Best way to flatten exhaust pipe flanges?

What’s the best way to get all the exhaust pipe flanges nice and flat? I’m talking about the triangle flanges used all through the ’75-78 …

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Source: www.thesamba.com

Date Published: 8/22/2022

View: 3777

How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe??? – CorvetteForum

You just need to be aware that flattening a round tube will increase flow restriction. The shape of the flow path is important, as well as size.

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Source: www.corvetteforum.com

Date Published: 4/21/2022

View: 4647

Exhaust pipe flattened at crossover? – Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

The remaining pressure drop is through the round exhaust pipe (complete with bends, connections, and flattened section). I’m sure that Toyota …

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Source: www.fjcruiserforums.com

Date Published: 2/12/2022

View: 5961

building my own exhaust.. need a little help

Flatening the pipe is simple. 2 short pieces of wooden 2×4’s and a bench vise. Place the pipe between the 2 pieces of 2×4 and crank down on the …

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Source: www.dakota-durango.com

Date Published: 8/16/2022

View: 1071

flatten exhaust pipe | Ford Mustang Forum

So yesterday I installed my Roush axle back exhaust. … the driver se pipe that bolts to the muffler is smashed in or flattened to clear …

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Source: www.allfordmustangs.com

Date Published: 12/18/2021

View: 3367

FLATTENED STAINLESS STEEL PIPE FABRICATION

Flatten a straight tube in a press brake. Just before the resulting oval collapses on itself, insert a strip of bismuth/cerrobend, then continue …

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Source: www.eng-tips.com

Date Published: 1/13/2022

View: 8005

Flattening PVC water pipe – TractorByNet

Blow the heat up the bore of the pipe, when it all warms up, press it with anything stout and flat. Use the floor if you want. I do it all the …

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Source: www.tractorbynet.com

Date Published: 11/7/2021

View: 122

Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

Quote: Originally posted by BitViper, if you take a 2×2 square and make it a 1×4 square, the area is the same

HAHAHAHA!!!!! You can’t be serious, can you?!? The 2×2 square has a perimeter of 8, the 1×4 has a perimeter of 10. It wouldn’t even be the same pipe! Anyway, yes if you flatten the round tube the cross sectional area will decrease. Imagine if you continued to mash it until it was completely flat. How much area would that be? Probably wouldn’t flow as well as the original pipe, would it? That being said, most of our exhaust systems are overkill for our applications. You can easily get away with squeezing some areas for extra clearance. Here is the formula for finding the cross-sectional area of ​​a Floval tube (flat oval): The original 3-inch tube has an area of ​​7.065 (radius x radius x pi) and a circumference of 9.42 (diameter x pi) Let now crush it to a height of 2 inches. Now the easiest way to imagine a Floval whistle is to break it down into simpler shapes. Let’s think of it as a rectangle with a semicircle on each side. First we can calculate the area of ​​the two semicircles (equal to a whole circle) on each side. 1 x 1 x 3.14 = 3.14. So the two semicircles have an area of ​​3.14 square inches. Now let’s find the perimeter. dia x pi gives us 6.28. The circumference of the pipe doesn’t change when you smooth it, so we take the original 9.42 and subtract 6.28. That leaves us with 3.14 inches of circumference. Half of that will be the flat spot on top, and half on the bottom, so let’s divide by 2. (3.14 / 2 = 1.57) Now let’s find the rectangular area between the two semicircles. We know that the pipe is now 2 inches high and that we have 1.57 inches flat at the top and bottom, so 1.57 x 2 = 3.14. Now all we have to do is add the area of ​​the two semicircle sections to the area of ​​the middle rectangular section. 3.14 + 3.14 gives 6.28 cross sectional area of ​​our pinched tube while the original has 7.065. Can you see the difference? Of course, this example doesn’t take into account the wall thickness of the hose, but you get the point.

Best way to flatten exhaust pipe flanges?

TheSamba.com Forums Forum Index -> Erkerbus -> Best way to flatten exhaust pipe flanges? View original topic: Best way to flatten exhaust pipe flanges? eche_bus Wed 15.07.2015 16:22 What is the best way to get all exhaust flanges nice and flat? I’m talking about the triangular flanges used throughout the ’75-78 exhaust system. I want to be damn sure these things all seal when put back together. None are bad enough to need hammering, but some have noticeable lows and highs that need to be lined up.

What I tried first was a long bastard file, but several hours of filing showed very little results. The file was brand new, but it didn’t seem to remove much metal at all.

So today I tried mounting my angle grinder in a vise so that the disc was horizontal. I latched the power switch so it would run continuously and then attempted to grind the flanges flat that way, pressing the part against the spinning disk. This took off more material than the file but was really quite difficult to control and seemed to deviate from flat too easily.

Two questions:

1) How flat do these flanges really have to be to seal properly? (I plan to use Hi-Temp Red Silicone Sealer as insurance)

2) What did you do well?

busdaddy Wed 07/15/2015 4:33 PM A belt sander is often effective, soggy gaskets and some bonus sealing don’t hurt either.

Tcash Wed Jul 15, 2015 5:01 pm Surprisingly the file doesn’t cut them?

As BD said, a belt sander. If you don’t have one. A local machine shop should have a belt grinder that will be used to make cylinder heads that they can run on.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7271723#7271723

Much luck

Cash

Don’t know if these are the right size.

eche_bus Wed 07/15/2015 18:44 Thank you BD & TCash –

I was really surprised that the big file didn’t cut well either, so I tried using it on some of the NOS parts and found that the heat must have hardened the metal on the old parts. It didn’t seem to make much of a difference, but then again, the NOS parts were already pretty much perfectly flat.

I don’t own a belt sander, but maybe that’s the way to go if I can’t find a machine shop to do it right away tomorrow. A lot of the little shops I knew about here have closed but I’ll give the engine builder who built our Mustang’s engine a try as they are pretty close.

When it comes to using a belt sander, a special abrasive? A recommended grain?

Also, I’m still curious as to how flat these need to be. For example, on one part I can only see a sliver (1/32 inch?) of a gap when I hold a file flat against the surface between the screw holes. Good enough or keep trying?

busdaddy Wed Jul 15, 2015 7:35 pm I usually grind until there is at least one full shiny ring, there may still be some pits or missing spots near the edge, but I like having enough to make one achieve full sealing all around. 50 grit aluminum oxide cuts through steel fairly well, but expect it to go through a few straps, especially if you tip the leading edge into the strap and it bites out a huge chunk of strap. Try a tool rental shop, they have a grinder and may even recommend the right abrasive for you.

Another option if you’re in a real machine shop is the milling machine, chuck it in and put the flange down, quick and painless, the only problem might be you don’t want to completely coat your machine in rusty funk, if sandblasted them beforehand, that would make it a lot easier. You can also have a surface grinder that will do the same.

old DKP driver Wed 07/15/2015 19:52 The BEST way ❗ Would be to take them to a machine shop that has a grinder

and let her do it.

Cylinder head finishing machines can make them perfect.

SGKent Wed 07/15/2015 10:34 pm ^^^^ what they said

The flanges have gone through thousands of heating and cooling cycles, making them fairly tempered. Even if you straighten them, the metal will thin out where it bent the most and it will be back. A file won’t work because the metal is so hard. You can also heat them red hot and tap them back with a hammer until straight. Another solution: http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=17102&cat=&page=1

oscarsnapkin Thu Jul 16, 2015 8:27 am I did mine with a belt sander and it seemed to work fine…for the most part. The Victor Reinz gaskets I bought from Bus Depot didn’t seal one or two of the joints, but the Elring gaskets worked like a charm. The Elrings appear to have a little more “padding”. I bought them from pelicanparts.com (recommended by SGK) for $3.50 each, part number 443-253-115-B-M30. I sanded mine until they were nice and shiny. There were still small pockmarks on the surface, but they seemed harmless. Some of the flanges also needed to be straightened out a bit. I put them in a vise and gave them a hit or two with a hammer. Also, the copper nuts that Bus Depot sells for exhaust manifolds are pretty crappy. The Pelican or Autohausaz ones have the nice flange style.

sixer Fri Jul 17, 2015 6:03 am When I made ours I had to “set” the screw tabs with a big hammer. I made sure they were just past flush (about 1/16″) with the inner “ring” (pipe end) so I could use a large flat file to smooth everything out until I had (at least) a full shine Ring as Busdaddy mentioned. I used copper RTV and the bus depot gaskets, assembled everything THEN tightened the bolts and currently have no leaks. I hammered the flanges slightly past flush to ensure there was pressure on the gasket is exercised, not on the tab.

ROCKOROD71 Fri 07/17/2015 06:44 Poor man’s option:

I did this job not long ago and got pretty good results with a large (about 1ft by 2ft) sheet of thick glass (got junk from a glass store). The glass is as flat as possible. Then I bought some round discs of sandpaper with glue on one side in different grit (80, 150, 300), slapped them on the glass and used elbow wax to shape all the flanges into a reasonably better shape. I made the U-pipes and exhaust manifolds like this, my “pacemaker” muffler already had good flanges. It took a while, but I did it in hibernation over the winter, one flange at a time, maybe 1 hour at a time.

They’re not 100% perfect, still a few small pits here and there, but I think the copper gasket and the right gaskets will seal them up pretty well. You’ll look a hundred times better than before, and you really have control over how much material you lose. I have a feeling you don’t want to take off too much otherwise things might not align/seal as well. A machine shop could level them regardless.

Someone who knows better than me could say how much material is allowed to be removed, or it could be on Ratwell’s website, but I’d look before I put the pieces anywhere and find out later that you’re doubling/tripling must on the seals or something.

Hope this is useful…

dirtkeeper Fri Jul 17, 2015 6:49 am In addition to flattening my flanges I now use copper sealant on my exhaust ports and has worked really well to keep them tight long term

Randy in Maine, Friday, July 17, 2015 8:22 am. I have kind of…

http://www.harborfreight.com/17-inch-auto-body-hand-sander-1727.html

eche_bus Fri 07/17/2015 22:15 Thanks to everyone for the good suggestions and comments.

I took my exhaust parts to the engine rebuilder and he did a fairly short job as a test, sanding one of the U-tube flanges almost flat using a really big vertical belt sander. After looking at the other parts he said he could do most of them but not the heat exchanger flanges as the surrounding body panel got in the way. It would also take about a week for him to finish the parts. He also suggests hammering the flanges (as others here have done) with a small slide and flat block of steel.

So I brought the parts home and got a cheap belt sander and some belts at Menard’s (hardware store like Home Depot) and plan to see how it goes this weekend if I do it myself. I’m thinking of strapping/clamping it upside down on my bench so I can work the flanges horizontally and have a better feel for things. Will let you all know how it goes.

Malokin Martin Fri Jul 17 2015 11:18 PM As others have mentioned I’ve had good results with the copper RTV (with gasket) after submitting. You’ll just never get it off once it’s baked in… But it will seal for sure.

SGKent Sat 07/18/2015 00:08 Malokin Martin wrote: As others have mentioned I have had good results with the copper RTV (with gasket) after submitting. You’ll just never get it off once it’s baked in… But it will seal for sure.

On my 1977 stock exhaust, the copper RTV became rubbery while the red, which hardened at lower temperatures, hardened.

WhirledTraveller Sat Jul 18 2015 5:41 AM When I made mine (6 years?) before, I hammered it flat with a regular old hammer. no heat Then it was off to town with the big bastard file. You need an aggressive file to bite into the metal. They weren’t “perfectly” flat, but they were a lot flatter than before. Then I cut my own exhaust gaskets from a large sheet of exhaust gasket material I got from the local FLAPS. The kind that has a core of perforated metal and is covered with a fibrous material on both sides. about 3/32 inch thick, it will compress and cover up all manner of sins.

I just disassembled my exhaust and my gaskets fell apart quite a bit during disassembly. But they never leaked.

BusPriest Sa 7/18/2015 12:48pm I am in the process of replacing a heat exchanger on my 77 that has a crack with a used one. Got new gaskets from Autozone. You’re the guy with a metal ring in the middle. Is this filing/hammering process required for the flanges used? Or does that only apply to new items? Copper sealing is the agreed best sealing?

Many Thanks.

babysnakes Sat 7/18/2015 1:57 PM WhirledTraveller wrote: When I made mine (6 years ago?) I hammered it flat with a regular old hammer. no heat Then it was off to town with the big bastard file. You need an aggressive file to bite into the metal. They weren’t “perfectly” flat, but they were a lot flatter than before.

Mime recently. Same process.

I see I wrote “mime” well I didn’t speak while making them, just some hand gestures.

babysnakes Sat 07/18/2015 13:59 BusPriest wrote: Is this filing/hammering process required for flanges that will be used?

Yes. I should hope if you bought new ones you wouldn’t need it.

Bala Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:30 am BusPriest wrote: I am in the process of replacing a heat exchanger on my 77 that has a crack with a used one. Got new gaskets from Autozone. You’re the guy with a metal ring in the middle. Is this filing/hammering process required for the flanges used? Or does that only apply to new items? Copper sealing is the agreed best sealing?

Many Thanks.

I have used Victor Reinz’s German flat gasket and have had a number of leaks with my pacesetter. I found these Beck Arnley inner lip seals (P/N 039-6099). They ship 2 to my local O’Reilly store.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BA00/0396…;ppt=C0022

That coupled with some copper sealant and hopefully I’ll be fine. Just wanted to have that part number out there in case anyone else wants to try these.

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How Do I ‘Shape’ An Exhaust Pipe???

(1) Make a wooden insert that will fit inside the tube as thick as you want the tube when it’s flattened out as much as you want. If you want the pipe to be 1 inch thick, make a piece of wood as long as you want x 3 inches x 1 inch thick. (2) After fitting it into the pipe, sandwich the pipe between two relatively rigid pieces of material, such as a piece of wood. B. 1/4″ thick aluminum plate if you can get it. If not you can use wood but it needs to be thicker to achieve the same rigidity as the aluminum piece. (3) Position the wood pieces with tape or what however, always around the pipe, put it in a [large-enough] vise and start clamping it along its length a little at a time so you don’t get ripples in it, just go back and forth along its length until you have a nice, even shape.(4) Over a beer, brag to your amazed friends about how you made professional-looking oval-section tubing using a vise and three pieces of wood.

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