How To Get A Stuck Arrow Out Of A Target? All Answers

The best arrow pullers for everyday use

The most useful “trick” for drawing arrows safely is an arrow puller. An arrow puller is a tool we all wish we could do without. Either we should never miss so we never have to pull an arrow out of a tree or wooden target frame, or targets should all be easy targets that can be drawn with two fingers. Now, in the real world, all my pencils have erasers, and I always carry an arrow puller to help me safely pull stubborn arrows off targets and, ahem, occasionally wooden target frames. You can try to draw stuck darts with your bare hands, but this increases the likelihood of bending or breaking your darts.

Standard arrow pullers do multiple things at once. They give you a better grip on the arrow shaft, and they increase the effective diameter of the arrow shaft you draw to provide an easier grip, and they protect the arrow from being bent by the grip of your fist by adding extra stiffening. Many different arrow pullers are available. The most popular variant of a folding cylinder, my favorites of which are the Third Hand Pro Puller and the Cartel, which is nice and handy, even more so than my Third Hand Puller.

For some people, the large diameter arrow pullers are overkill and they prefer to use different materials to get a better grip on their arrows, including simple rubber can openers and grippy shelf liners. These are cheap, readily available, and can get caught between tightly packed arrows.

Standard distance of the arrow puller

Using an arrow puller follows the same safety rules as when drawing arrows by hand. Make sure there is no one behind you or to the side where they could be impaled by the arrow’s nock end if it suddenly released. Also, make sure you’re dragging the arrow *past* your body, not towards it. First remove any non-seated arrows. Grip the arrow shaft as close to the target as possible to avoid bending or breaking the shaft. Be sure to pull the arrow straight out, preferably with one hand on the target and one on the arrow puller. If attempting to pull out an arrow with two hands, make sure the butt is fully secured and that you are also secure and will not fall if the arrow unexpectedly releases.

Alternative arrow pullers

One product that attempts to add leverage is the Double D Archery Products Arrow Puller, which allows for a vertical grip for added pulling power. The vertical grip gives extra leverage but reduces control when the arrow finally breaks free and can encourage the bad habit of drawing the arrow straight at the shooter. Therefore, archers using such a puller must take extra care to pull the arrow out in a safe direction, away from their face and body and away from other people.

At $32.50, it certainly costs more than a handy shelf liner, but it’s an interesting addition to the tools that make dart-drawing easier. For now, I stick to using the standard articulated cylinder arrow pullers because of their simplicity, effectiveness, and because of the parallel grip’s tendency to pull the arrow away from one’s body.

Extreme arrow pulling

In our JOAD program, we use light draw weight bows, so we don’t often encounter this situation. Our arrows don’t go very deep into wooden frames. However, heavier weight bows often do. And some types of targets, especially “3D” foam targets, can be very difficult arrows to hit. If your arrow is in a wooden frame and you use screw-in tips on your arrows, you may have the option of unscrewing the shaft and leaving the tip in the wood. (Remember that twisting carbon arrows to loosen them can damage the arrow. Always check your carbon arrows before shooting them.) To remove arrows in stuck wooden frames, another option is to use a screw next to screw the arrow into the same wood grain with a percussion drill. This can relieve the pressure on the arrow enough to remove the arrow with an ordinary arrow puller. Don’t try this trick with a target pad, just the frame! And be sure to remove the expansion screw when you’re done.

If you are deep in a 3D target or target pad, please try to safely remove the entire arrow. Dots left in clusters will be hit by other arrows, dealing damage. Also, try not to damage the targets and target frames when removing arrows. One person on an arrow saving rampage can ruin a target or target frame for everyone.

A great looking tool for safely removing hard-to-draw arrows is the Hamskea Arojac Arrow Puller, which is designed to securely grip a wide range of arrow diameters and pull them straight out with mechanical ratcheting leverage. It looks like it could be a great tool for big clubs to save arrows. It might be a little heavy and a bit pricey for the average archer at $130, but for people who regularly shoot at targets that are difficult to draw arrows from, it can be a good long-term investment.

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Bones exhumed from a Dominican monastery in Exeter have shown that arrows fired from a longbow caused injuries as fatal as modern gunshot wounds.

The remains examined were most likely soldiers who died in battle, were driven out and reburied in consecrated sacred ground.

The research team found that the injuries received from arrows completely penetrated the human skull, causing small entry wounds and large exit wounds. The darts would spin clockwise as they hit the victim, acting like a drill cutting through bone. Gun manufacturers predominantly have rifled barrels so that the bullets rotate clockwise in the same direction.

Excavations at the monastery were carried out by Exeter Archeology prior to the construction of a shopping area. The team analyzed 22 bone fragments, 3 teeth, a complete skull, a left femus, a right tibia and a left humerus. All bones showed traumatic injuries, most likely caused by arrows.

Radiocarbon dating of the remains shows them to date from 1482 to 1645 AD. The shin with the stab wound has been dated to AD 1284–1395 and the skull to AD 1405–1447, suggesting that the injuries to the skull and leg were suffered by different men.

The English longbow was a deadly medieval bow type used by the English and Welsh for hunting and warfare. The longbow was a crucial weapon of war against the French during the Hundred Years’ War, most famously at the Battle of Agincourt in AD 1415, where approximately 1,500 gunmen and 7,000 longbowmen defeated the 14,000-15,000 strong French army.

Professor Oliver Creighton, a University of Exeter archaeologist who led the research, said: “These findings have profound implications for our understanding of the power of the medieval longbow; for how we recognize arrow trauma in the archaeological record; and where sacrifices were buried.

“In the medieval world, death by an arrow in the eye or in the face could have special meaning. Spiritual writers sometimes viewed the injury as a divinely ordained punishment, the most famous instance being the ‘dart in the eye’ suffered by King Harald II on the battlefield of Hastings in 1066. Our study brings into focus the horrific reality of such an injury.”

UNIVERSITY OF EXETER

Frontispiece – Jean Froissart – From Chapter CXXIX of the Chronicles of Jean Froissart

interruption. You have a projectile flying with enough power to punch through layers of metal, your bones won’t fare well.

Pulling out an arrow alone is generally a very bad idea. Pushing through is actually worse. This will do more damage than just pulling it back out. Removing it will also remove any obstructions that are slowing down your bleeding. Like removing a blade, drawing an arrow carries the risk of increased bleeding and death. Leaving it there and moving around isn’t a good idea either, as you’re likely to do more damage. (Not as much as punch through, but that’s still not something you want to mess with.)

If your character thinks the arrowhead is poisoned, he must decide which is more dangerous, exposed to more poison, or bleed out immediately.

While I’m not an expert on toxicology, I suspect by the time the arrow has been poisoned it will be too late. That’s sort of the point. Getting hit by an arrow is already a life-threatening injury, and there’s no real way to mitigate that blow, so the toxins that actually have a home on an arrow are the ones that just make you terrible and fast die. You could theoretically lace an arrowhead with mercury or something, but there’s just no reason to. It is passively dangerous to the archer and will not make the arrow more deadly. This will give you things like snake or frog venoms that will kill in minutes even if the arrow is removed. These are usually complex protein toxins that do all sorts of horrible things to people.

In some cases there is no treatment, and in others you need to administer a specific antidote as soon as possible. These are not interchangeable, you need the right antidote, not a random concoction.

This is compounded by the fact that most fat-based poisons attach to an arrowhead. This will easily wipe the arrowhead, especially when stuck in a wound.

So your character is probably a toast.

-Strength

It’s safe to say that most bowhunters use mechanical broadheads. It’s also safe to say that most bowhunters believe that mechanical heads fly like their field tips. There’s no question that most mechanical heads fly much like a feldspitze, but chances are they don’t fly exactly like a feldspitze.

The majority of broadhead companies make a training head designed to fly just like their broadhead, but this is not always the case. I’ve tested dozens of different broadheads and dozens of different dummy heads over the years; Some of them fly perfectly and just like the others and some don’t. Many practice heads fly differently than field tips. To ensure you tack on opening day, I’ve provided a few tips below that will help bow hunters achieve pinpoint accuracy.

SHOOT FIELD POINTS THE MAJORITY OF THE YEAR

For starters, practice shooting at field points for most of the year. There are a few reasons for this. Field tips are inexpensive, easy to replace, and won’t chew up a target like a broadhead or training head. I photograph field tips six to nine months a year.

PRACTICE HEADS

When archery season is around the corner, I’ll switch to practice heads. It may be an overstatement, but I like to weigh each of my practice heads to make sure they weigh the same as my field points. It’s sometimes amazing how big the difference in weight is between field tips and practice heads. After I know the weight matches, I start shooting practice heads about 6 weeks before the start of the season. This gives me enough time to tweak my sights if there are discrepancies in accuracy between my field points and my practice heads. If I have 6 darts with dummy heads, sometimes 3 or 4 of them fly perfectly and one or two don’t. Sometimes the total weight of an arrow is off. In this case, I weigh my arrow, test it and adjust if necessary. In some cases, another dummy head is enough to get the arrow flying properly.

PRACTICE WITH REAL POINTS

I’ll be shooting my practice heads up to the season and practicing with a real broadhead occasionally. Many bowhunters don’t want to go without a real broadhead when practicing because they are so expensive, but practicing with a real broadhead is a must to ensure an arrow flies properly. Sometimes a mechanical head doesn’t fly exactly like a practice head, so it’s important to shoot a real broadhead during practice. Bowhunters who shoot fixed blade broadheads usually shoot them at a target a few times before the season, knowing that field tips and fixed blade broadheads do not always fly the same. Mechanical broadheads, on the other hand, don’t always shoot at a target with a broadhead because they don’t want to ruin a target or a broadhead. Practicing with a real mechanical head is a must for me. I want to know exactly where the arrow will hit before I go hunting.

SHOOT AT DIFFERENT RANGES

What I’ve found over the years is that most broadheads fly the same as a field tip or practice head at 20 or 30 yards. Beyond 30 meters things change. Shooting practice heads, field tips, and broad tips at various ranges in backyard shooting is a must if your goal on Opening Day is to be on point. By practicing with field tips, practice heads, and broadheads throughout the summer, you’ll be ready on opening day.

One reason many bowhunters prefer to only shoot field tips is that they do the least amount of damage to an archery target. If you’re looking for a new target that field points and broadpoints can beat, check out Morrell Targets’ High Roller Target. The High Roller foam offers easy dart removal and will not shred when shot with broadheads. The High Roller is lightweight, portable and durable.

By Jon E Silks

Bowhunters have long wondered how much foam will aim against blunt broadheads, so we created a test to investigate.

Our practical bowhunting test series is designed to do just that – practically. This fifth part focuses on how shooting at foam targets affects the sharpness of your broadhead blades.

Many bowhunters I know don’t hunt with a broadhead unless it’s fresh out of the box. These archers would not dream of using a headshot again on their practice target, and some of them would even criticize other bowhunters who did so. After all, we’ve drilled this way of thinking into ourselves for a very long time. The question is, where does this thinking come from, and does it still have merit?

Years ago, when hunting bows were significantly slower than they are today, bowhunters would use bales of hay, homemade cardboard mats, sand pits, leaves lying around in the yard, or whatever else they could find to check the accuracy of their settings. There were a few issues with these goals. First, some of the materials, like hay bales and cardboard, wouldn’t always stop the arrow.

So you hit the dirt or other objects behind it. Second, you never knew what might be lurking inside the target. We found gravel in hay bales, rocks in sand pits and of course if you walked through and hit the ground you could come across pretty much anything. It’s not hard to imagine broadheads becoming blunted or damaged during such practice sessions.

Today, however, virtually all broadhead practice is done with some type of manufactured foam target. These targets come in a variety of shapes, sizes and prices, but the bottom line is modern broadhead targets are made from materials that ensure a clean and consistent hit for our arrows.

Still, no ethical bowhunter would break into any material with a broadhead shot unless he or she was supremely confident that the head would still perform as well – or very nearly – as a brand new head straight out of the box. That’s where this month’s test comes in; We have created data that sheds light on the effects of foam targets on blade sharpness.

The three targets used in our test represent three different designs. The Rinehart Mule Deer Target (left) features the company’s signature self-healing rigid foam, the GlenDel Full Rut Buck (right) features a multi-layer foam core, and the new Delta ShotBlocker Ultimate (center) is made from heat-sealed layers of foam.

experimental setup

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We started with the hard-hitting Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo, perfectly tuned by Len Marsh at Macrotech Archery in Baltimore, Maryland to shoot 28-inch Easton Full Metal Jacket arrows that weighed 465 grains, including 100-grain field points. The draw length was set at 28 inches and the draw weight at 68 pounds. We used an Archer Xtreme Titanium Recon arrow rest and a standard string nock loop. This setup produced an arrow speed of 290 fps, resulting in 86.86 foot-pounds of kinetic energy.

All test shots were hand fired at 10 yards and all hit a “fresh” spot on the targets. Three targets were used, representing three different manufacturing processes.

These included a Rinehart mule deer target featuring the company’s signature self-healing rigid foam, a GlenDel Full Rut Buck featuring a layered foam core with a thin outer layer of rigid foam, and a new Delta ShotBlocker Ultimate target constructed from heat-sealed layered foam. Rexpid, New Archery Products (NAP) and Innerloc Broadheads blades were used.

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Before testing, we sent 14 brand new, freshly out of the box blades to the Cutlery & Allied Trades Research Association in Sheffield, England for initial sharpness measurements. These readings served as the basis for comparing the sharpness of the same blades after testing. CATRA is the same provider we use for other tests and is one of the few sources in the world that offers accurate, standardized sharpness tests.

To estimate how much sharpness is lost when shooting in foam, we tested in increments of one shot, seven shots, 14 shots, and 30 shots. We chose these numbers with a specific purpose. A single shot is theoretically all it would take to verify that your bow is zeroed and your arrow and head are flying properly.

Seven shots would be more fitting for a bow that needs a slight adjustment or two, and 14 shots is about the number you need to get things back on track when things really get out of whack. We also chose to test a blade after 30 shots as an example of what you might experience after repeated practice sessions with the same broadhead.

Once our testing was complete, we sent the same blades back to CATRA to be re-tested for final sharpness results.

The results

Before discussing the results, we need some context to understand the numbers/values ​​assigned by CATRA.

First, let’s outline the procedure used. Each sample blade was tested using CATRA’s REST (Razor Edge Sharpness Tester) machine, which pushes the blade into standard 3mm rubber test media at 0.1mm per second and measures the peak force in Newtons required to cut the media.

The lower the number, the less force is required to cut the test media and the sharper the blade. So if you look at the result graph, the additional force required to cut after the test shots are fired is equal to the amount of blunting that occurred.

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To put the results in context, note the following:

€¢ Standard razor blade: 0.3 N

€¢ Typical hunting knife: 1.5-2.0N

€¢ Out-of-the-pack sharpness range of 13 brand broadheads in our recent fixed blade broadhead test: 0.86-2.69N.

Blade sharpness was measured before and after testing using the Razor Edge Sharpness Tester machine at the Cutlery & Allied Trades Research Association in Sheffield, England. BOWHUNTING has used CATRA for a number of tests as it is one of the few sources in the world for reliable, accurate sharpness data.

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What the numbers mean

So what can we learn from the results? Well, the most obvious thing we’ve learned is that shooting in foam actually dulls broadhead blades. However, the dulling that occurs is very small. In fact, it’s safe to say that the level of dulling of the blades – even after repeated firing – is significantly less than many bowhunters would expect.

It’s also important to note that the blades in our test were still quite sharp, even after repeated shots. Note that none of the sharpness values ​​after the test were above 1.94N. And if you do the 30-shot test, that number shrinks to 1.51N.

The sharpness of all the blades in our test after test compares very well to the brand new out of the box sharpness of the 13 heads in our recent fixed blade broadhead test – big brands trusted by thousands by thousands of bow hunters – that ranged from 0.86 to 2.69N. And considering that a typical hunting knife ranges from 1.5 to 2.0N, all of the blades in our test were still razor sharp even after multiple shots.

Second, while many bowhunters may not consider firing their primary broadhead at a foam target regardless of the data, there are actually situations and reasons that justify relying on the information here and throwing a confirmation arrow or two into range send. A situation that qualifies is forgetfulness; If you have a memory like mine, this is a real possibility.

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Let’s say you arrive at your hunting destination, far away from the nearest bow shop, and realize you forgot your practice heads but remember your foam portable target. Based on these results, I wouldn’t hesitate to take a single shot with one of my broadheads to confirm accuracy. If it still bothers you a lot, just move the confirmation arrow to the last spot in your quiver.

Another reason to get some practice shots with your hunting heads – one I can relate to personally – is for general cash flow. When I first started bowhunting I had so little money that I used a match clipped to my sling as a sight pin! Many broadheads are relatively expensive, and spending $30 or $40 on an additional pack of “training heads” may not be the best option if, based on our data, you can confidently shoot a couple of your hunting heads to check setup and still expect killers can performance.

You know, the worst case scenario is that a bowhunter decides not to shoot that practice shot based on bad information and then takes a bad shot in the field because his equipment is broken. With the data we’ve gleaned from this test, I’d much rather they take a practice shot or two and have confidence in their gear.

If you have the money to buy extra broadheads specifically for practice use then by all means stock up. However, if you find yourself in the situations described above, based on our data, you should have the confidence to fire off a few practice shots and still go out and hunt the trophy of a lifetime.

Blade mark indicator Initial sharpness indicator Number of shots indicator Sharpness after test indicator Target change indicator Blade 1 indicator 0.85 1 1.15 0.3 GlenDel blade 2 1.19 1 1.19 0 Rinehart blade 3 1.01 1 1.04 0 .03 Rinehart Blade 4 1.10 1 1.24 0.14 GlenDel Blade 5 1 1.36 0.08 Delta Blade 6 0.89 7 1.39 0.5 Glendel Blade 7 0.99 7 1.41 0, 42 Glendel Blade 8 1.23 7 1.51 0.28 Rinehart Blade 9 1.30 7 1.29 -1.01 Rinehart Blade 10 0.92 14 1.34 0.42 Glendel Blade 11 1.27 14 1.40 0.13 RINEHART 12 0.92 Glendel 114 1.27 14 1.40 0.13 RINEHART 12 0.92 Glendel Blade 11 1.27 14 1.40 0.13 RINEHART 12 0.92 0.92 Glendel 11.27 14 1.46 0.52 GlenDel Blade 13 1.14 14 1.19 .05 Rinehart Blade 14 1.29 30 1.94 .65 Delta

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So we’re all geared up for the hunting season and got a brand new bow and a bunch of brand new arrows. You start thinking, “Can I hit with these things?” We all know that field tips are for shooting targets and broadheads are for shooting animals. But can you use broadheads to shoot at targets?

It is best to only shoot foam targets with broadheads and use field tips for all other target types.

Field tip practice gets you used to shooting field tip arrows, so it would make sense to practice with broadheads to get used to shooting broadhead arrows.

Luckily, you can use broadheads to shoot at targets, but depending on the material the target is made of, you could risk breaking or blunting your broadheads.

Let’s look at some of the different types of targets and how they can affect a broadhead.

hay bales

If you ask anyone interested in archery what would be the cheapest thing to use as a target, one of the most common answers will be: a haystack. Haystacks are fairly common and easy to get. That’s why they’re probably one of the most popular targets to practice on.

A well-wrapped hay bale is fairly dense, but if you shoot an arrow at it, it hits with enough force to penetrate the hay bale very deeply very easily. That means you could lose an arrow deep in the haystack or damage your fletching (either feathers or vanes).

That being said, you won’t do much damage to your broadhead if it’s a fixed blade. The reason for this is that straw and hay are fairly easy to cut through with a sharp blade.

There is a much higher risk of damage with a mechanical broadhead and for this reason it is not recommended to shoot hay bales with mechanical broadheads.

In general, it’s better to use a hay bale as a backstop to your main target or filler with some kind of outside target (like cardboard). In this case, you would only have to worry about finding your arrows. But as far as damaging your broadhead, I’d say the risk is minimal.

cardboard targets

Many of us archers don’t live in rural areas or have access to hay bales. So when we start thinking about ways to make goals, the obvious choice is cardboard.

When it comes to making a target out of cardboard, the basic method is to stack pieces of cardboard on top of each other to form layers, and then shoot the thing.

The only question is: which side are you shooting at? There are two basic options: Shooting into the end grain OR shooting with the flat side (across the front sight).

If you choose to shoot the end grain of the box, you can expect a higher chance of one of your broadhead blades being bent or broken. The reason is that the cardboard sheets were tied tightly together.

When you shoot the arrow at the target, the blades have to break these layers apart and work against the force that is pushing the layers together.

If the broadpoint does not come to rest so that the blades are perfectly aligned with the layers of cardboard, a bending force will be exerted on the blades, causing them to break.

For this reason it is not recommended to shoot the end grain of a stack of cardboard with fixed blade broadheads. For the same reason it is also not recommended to shoot at the end grain of a cardboard target with mechanical broadheads.

Conversely, if you choose to shoot the flat side of the cardboard (across the grain) there are a few other problems for your broadheads. It is true that shooting at the flat side of a stack of boxes gives a very close target to shoot at.

However, the deeper the dart penetrates the layers of cardboard, the more difficult it becomes to pull the dart out.

The same layers that make it tight and a good dart stopper also make the dart harder to pull out, as the blades will snag on the cardboard sheets when not aligned with the cutting channel.

If the blades are not aligned with the cutting channel, there is a higher risk that one of the blades will break or damage it when you pull out your arrow. We can conclude that shooting field points at cardboard targets and saving your broadheads and some damage is best.

sand targets

If you don’t have access to hay bales and you’re out of cardboard boxes, the next most common material to make a target out of is simply a pile of dirt or sand.

If you’re not shooting at an indoor facility, you’re probably shooting outdoors. That means you will have access to a lot of dirt. It’s pretty easy to make a bunch of dirt and shoot at it to practice shooting.

When you find some cardboard boxes, you can fill them with some dirt and start shooting at them. Your local hardware store or even your gas station may have pallets of sandbags for sale and these could be used to make a target.

While this may be a good idea and easy to do with field tips, it’s not a good idea to use broadheads to shoot at dirt or sand. The reason is that you will definitely dull, blunt or break your broadhead.

Depending on the type of dirt, it can either be mostly organic material that is fairly soft, or a mix of sand and clay and organic material. It is not foreseeable how many stones, pebbles or pieces of gravel could be in this heap of earth. Any one of them could break your broadhead.

Sand is composed of silica, and silica is much harder than the blades of your broadhead. Each time you shoot the broadhead into the sand, the blade will dull and potentially your broadhead will chip or break completely.

So since you don’t know exactly what’s in the dirt, and since silica is harder than the blades, it’s best to just shoot at dirt and sand with field points.

foam targets

Now let’s move on to the best target option for shooting broadheads: foam targets. Foam can be molded into any type of shape and any type of target you can imagine.

All you need is the right shape. Foam can be made to provide just the right amount of density and just the right amount of softness so that a broadhead will not crack or dull with repeated firing.

Today, foam targets are available at most outdoor supply stores. You’ll find plain old foam blocks and tons of 3D targets in the shape of all kinds of animals. They can range in price from $30 to $3,000. I even found a 3D moose target for almost $4,000!

The point is: foam targets are fairly readily available.

The only downside is the more you shoot at them with broadheads, the shorter the target’s lifespan. That’s simply because you slash it every time you shoot at it with a broadhead.

So if you want to extend the life of a foam target, it’s best to shoot it with field points.

But if you want to shoot your new broadheads to get a feel for how much they drop and how they compare to your field points, you can definitely use foam targets for that purpose without worrying about damaging or dulling the blades to have to.

Related topics

steel plates

The latter is really not a recommendation, just a suggestion if you want to challenge yourself a little more and give a little more pleasure. Nothing verifies a hit quite like the ringing “ping” sound when you hit a steel plate.

The best part is that AR500 Steel Plates are very easy to find, so they might be a good option if you want to shoot steel targets with your bow.

And it doesn’t have to be steel either. Any metal plate you can find that provides this audible signal will do just fine.

You definitely shouldn’t be shooting at steel plates with your broadheads…unless you’re trying to break them. Only ever shoot steel plates with field tips. And only the field points you want to blunt.

If you shoot steel plates with your bow and arrows at all, make sure you are at a safe distance and the steel plates can either swing or be knocked down on impact. This will prevent arrows from ricocheting and coming back to you and hurting you or anyone around you.

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A man who was shot through the skull with an arrow by a friend while trying to knock a jerry can off his head survived with no brain damage, doctors say.

Surgeons removed the dart from Anthony Roberts’ head by drilling a larger hole around the point at the back of the skull and pulling the dart through it.

Roberts, 25, was shot dead at his friend’s home in Grants Pass, about 200 miles south of Portland, on Saturday. No charges were brought against his friend.

Paramedics saved his life by holding him down as he tried to pull the dart out himself in the helicopter en route to Portland University Hospital, Dr. Johnny B Delashaw.

“If he had succeeded, the flanges cutting through his brain would have killed him instantly,” said Delashaw, a neurosurgeon at the hospital. The arrow’s tip went 8 to 10 inches into Robert’s brain.

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Roberts, an unemployed carpenter, lost his right eye.

At a news conference at the hospital on Tuesday, Roberts first told reporters that he was walking through a park when he heard a bow being fired and then felt the arrow hit. He later told them his friend tried to knock the gallon off his head as part of an initiation into a rafting and outdoor group called Mountain Men Anonymous.

Investigators said they had no doubt the can story was true. Roberts, who is expected to be discharged from hospital in a few days, said he was drinking with friends when the accident happened.

“I feel really stupid,” Roberts said.

Having built wooden bows up to 80lbs myself and taking part in reenactments, I can say: it depends on the wood, the construction of the bow, the string and the arrow (besides the weather, geography/topography, wind and of course the archer).

Without aiming aids or visual references, a good traditional archer can maintain a narrow target of spread up to about 20-30 m when shooting at a shooting range with a steady flight of arrows at the same height, considerably less when shooting in nature their ups and downs shoots. obstacles and distractions. Traditional bowhunting is stalking, to a lesser extent with fully equipped modern compound bows and fiber arrows.

Long-range shooting, e.g., butt-gun shooting, is mass shooting. A fast archer can fly 2-3 arrows and 50 archers create a nice visual and acoustic backdrop :-). The arrows are shot at ~45°, on impact they only have their final velocity. But if the head is a long needle, it will still pierce through light armor or ring mail, or the orbit of a skull.

Long shots in traditional archery, flat and no wind, are around 200-250 yards as others have noted. My longest was ~180m with a 65lbs Osage Orange bow, natural feather arrow and forged head, Wayfarer shaft. With a much lighter fiberglass arrow it would have been a little more.

As for the range of the longbows, chronicles of the already mentioned Battle of Agincourt state that the arrows feared penetrating light armor at the joints up to a distance of 220-200 yards, although of course they were unaimed ballistic shots. I would consider that range to be the max effective range in these conditions, further would be a waste of arrows mostly imo.

Also mentioned is the wreck of the Mary Rose, which contained a cargo of staves and bows. While some specs (particularly draw weight) are still being debated, we can expect a draw weight of between 100 and 160lbs. A few replicas were made.

Further reading: Traditional Bowyer’s Bible, Volumes 1 to 4.

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1. The recommended method for removing darts from a target butt is? A. Grab the end just in front of the fletchings and pull slowly and evenly

B. Grasp the arrow shaft just near the center line and give a jerk and pull.

C. With one hand, grasp the dart near the point of entry into the target and pull it back with a slight twisting motion

D. Move the arrow from left to right to release it, then slowly pull it out.

2. What does “double arch” scoring mean? A. The scribe fills out 2 x sheets at the same time.

B. Two different archers perform the scoring individually

C. The scorer returns the score sheet to the clubhouse after the shooting and copies it properly

3. If a shooter shoots an arrow after the allotted time or out of sequence, what is the penalty? A. The archer loses the highest scoring arrow in that end.

B. Nothing, it will be considered normal scoring for that event.

C. Ten points are subtracted from the archers’ score card.

4. Why does the shooter have to sign the scorecard at the end of the round? A. It helps the recorder figure out who was on a specific target.

B. The signature is checked against the attendance list.

C. So that the recorder knows who was filming that day.

D. The shooter signs to confirm that he agrees with the values ​​of the arrows.

5. What action will the scorer take if an error is made in an arrow count during a tournament? A. The archer and scribe make the change and sign next to it

B. Nothing. Once the score is written, that’s it!

C. Request a judge to review the scorecard

6. When can you remove your darts from the butt? A. Once your darts have been scored.

B. When all archer arrows on the target have been scored

C. Once you have free space to reach your arrows.

7. Where is the X ring and what is its value? A. The X ring is actually the 10 zone and counts as 10 points.

B. The X ring is the inner zone of the 10 ring and has a value of 10 on the scorecard

8. How can you avoid injuries during goal preparation? A. When approaching the target, go in from the side to avoid arrows sticking out.

B. Have someone else do it.

C. Stand far back directly in front of the target so you can see where the arrows hit.

9. FITA targets are divided into 10 different scoring zones. Which of the colored rings has the value 6? A. The inner blue ring and the outer red ring

B. The outer white ring

C. No rings count 6

D. The inner blue ring