Hamster Cage In Closet? Quick Answer

Do you have a pet hamster? One thing that is important to be aware of is that your tiny fur ball can become very ill if they get too cold! In this article, a veterinarian from Aurora, CO discusses the dangers of the common cold to hamsters.

ideal temperatures

Different species of hamster have slightly different needs, but in general you will need to keep the little Hammie’s habitat between 65 and 75 degrees. Hammie needs to be in a place that has adequate ventilation but is not very drafty. Even if you freeze for just a few hours, your pet could be in danger! It’s very important that your little pal has at least one hiding place to go into: this can also help him stay warmer. We recommend keeping a thermostat in or near your pet’s cage. If the room doesn’t stay warm enough, you may need to use heaters. Ask your veterinarian for more information.

Warning signals

If Hammie gets too cold, he may start shaking or lose interest in his food and water. He might also seem lethargic. If your little furry ball’s tiny feet, ears, or nose feel cold, it’s likely that he’s too cold. Your little pal may also start having trouble breathing if he gets cold.

hibernation

If little Hammie gets too cold, his body may try to hibernate. This is very dangerous for your little friend! Because pets don’t really know how to hibernate properly, they often become severely dehydrated. Unfortunately, this can prove fatal. It is worth noting that the risks of hibernation and subsequent dehydration apply mainly to Syrian hamsters. Dwarf hamsters don’t hibernate, but they can still get very sick if they get too cold.

What to do when your hamster is hibernating

If you know or suspect your hamster has hibernated, contact your veterinarian immediately. It can be somewhat difficult to determine if a hamster has hibernated or died. In general, hibernating hamsters are limp, while those that have already died become stiff. Sometimes hamsters can be woken from hibernation with warm water and gentle massage, but you will need to consult your veterinarian for advice and instructions on what to do.

Do you have questions about caring for a pet hamster? We can help! Please contact us, your pet clinic in Aurora, CO, anytime!

Most of the time, hamsters take care of themselves – they don’t need as much personal play time as, say, a puppy. That doesn’t mean you can leave him to his own devices all the time. Hamsters need your attention every day – every night, actually – and if you don’t give it to them, they will complain. Since hamsters are nocturnal animals, this means they’ll be vying for your attention if you’re trying to count sheep. To keep his cage in your room, you need to give him some attention before bed – take him out of the cage to play or hang out. That way, he won’t spend all night chewing on the bars and whining for your love. If your hamster hasn’t arrived for the “night” after waking up, it’s another good time to play with him.

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Caring for a hamster includes providing a cage with bedding, food, and water. You should provide a cage large enough for your hamster to get enough exercise each day and have access to plenty of mentally stimulating toys.

Hamster Cage Sizes

For Syrian hamsters, the minimum area per hamster is 900 square inches or 40 inches by 22.5 inches. The height should be 24 inches to allow for several inches of bedding.

Chinese hamsters and dwarf hamsters require at least 700 square inches of floor space. This equates to approximately 40 x 17.5 inches per hamster. A cage height of at least 24 inches with 6-8 inches of bedding is optimal.

The ideal cage for multiple hamsters is one that has a large enough floor space for each hamster’s needs. Syrian hamsters prefer to be kept alone and should not live together. Dwarf hamsters require ample space to house more than one and should only be kept singly or in pairs. Be sure to check sex and separate males and females to avoid unwanted mating, and monitor interactions as there can be aggression between cagemates.

The best hamster cages

The best cages for hamsters are escape-proof and allow for adequate ventilation. Cage materials can include wire mesh, fish tank, and plastic.

The best hamster cages have a tank bottom and a wire top. The bottom of the tank can be plastic or glass to provide space for digging. A snap-on wire mesh top allows for easy cleaning and prevents leakage. Cages made entirely of wire lack sufficient depth for burrowing. Also, substrate and bedding can be pushed out of the wire cage, creating a mess. Wooden cages are more difficult to clean and are easily chewed. Cages made entirely of glass provide insufficient ventilation. The glass is also very heavy to lift, making them difficult to move and clean.

Recommendations for the best first hamster cage include the Savic Hamster Heaven Metro Cage, which comes complete with a selection of accessories. Ferplast’s Duna Space two-story gerbil cage is another great option that includes several accessories.

Are crittertrail cages bad for hamsters?

The popular crittertrail cages are not recommended for hamsters because they are too small. They also lack adequate floor space to run around and the running wheel is too small for larger hamster species like the Syrian hamster, which could contribute to back injuries. The connecting hoses have multiple connecting joints that can trap bacteria from the typical messes that happen when the hamster roams the pathways. This can serve as a breeding ground for fecal bacteria as well as ammonia gas from urine.

DIY hamster cage

A DIY hamster cage can be made from a large plastic bucket. Be sure to measure the inside dimensions to ensure the floor space is at least 450 square inches.

Using a Dremel cutting tool, utility scissors, or box cutter, cut out and remove the center flat portion of the lid. Place marks for holes about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the raw edge. Use a small drill to make the holes for the zip ties. Place a wire mesh over it and use wire cutters to cut it to fit over the window in the lid. Secure the wire mesh panel to the lid with a zipper. Remove the excess ribbon by trimming the tabs short. Place your choice of substrate, bedding, feeder/water dispenser and accessories in the container.

Your hamster can then be placed in the enclosure and the lid attached to complete your DIY hamster cage.

Enrichment of the hamster cage

Provide enrichment throughout your hamster’s cage by mimicking materials found in the wild, including:

Fodder and enrichment feed

Scatter hamster food across the floor of the enclosure instead of being limited to one food bowl. Place fruits and veggies on a treat stick to make eating more difficult. Offer a selection of safe herbs, leaves, and flowers to eat weekly. Offer dried plants and seeds in sprays, including millet, flax, wheat, oats, quinoa, and sorghum (occasionally) to mimic foraging for food in the wild.

Deep litter for digging

At least 25cm of litter is ideal for large hamsters. This allows the hamster to mimic digging behavior in the wild. Certain bedding materials such as aspen flakes, hemp shavings, and Care Fresh may not allow proper tunnels to last. Adding soft layers of hay between layers of bedding can improve tunnel stability. It’s also important to compact the bedding to help with stability.

Be sure to provide bedding over a large enough area of ​​the enclosure or the entire floor. Adding a cork tree or other tunnel halfway into the bedding can be a starting point for a building system. Some hamsters need time to figure out that they like this behavior.

Different materials to touch and deepen

Provide a dig box with either corncob litter (watch for signs of ingestion and remove if necessary), coir, cork granules, beech shavings, or cushion moss/peat moss

sand bath

Sand is used for cleaning, digging, rolling, or some hamsters use it as a litter box. Avoid using dust and powder substrates. Chinchilla sand is too dusty. It is best to use play sand or reptile sand without the addition of coloring agents or calcium. Be careful to avoid sand from dollar stores or craft stores. Make the enclosure big enough to dig and roll in, e.g. B. a glass casserole dish. Something with a lip or lid can be good to hide under.

pipes and branches

Tubes and branches are used to hide in or under. Examples of this are cork and grapevine wood. Each piece is unique and natural, textured to keep hamster nails groomed. These can be found in the reptile section of pet stores. Other common items are bamboo roots, birch reeds, and terracotta reeds.

platforms

Provide a shelf for heavy items for hamsters to hide under. These need to be at least 3 inches high for a dwarf hamster or up to 6 inches for Syrian hamsters to fit comfortably underneath.

hideouts

Offer a basket, ceramic, or wooden box to hide. Fill your hamster’s cage halfway full to make him feel safe and secure. This can be accomplished with several items made of wood, terracotta clay, ceramics, and cardboard. Avoid items that contain nails or are made of soft wood or leather that can ooze resin. Make sure the entrance is large enough – 2 inches (Dwarf) or 3 inches (Syrian). A multi-chamber hideout can also be purchased or created from scratch.

Frequently asked questions about hamster cages

Which is better for a hamster – cage or tank?

A tank is better as it allows for more substrate and bedding to be provided for digging and digging.

What is the best cage for a Syrian hamster?

A Syrian hamster will need a cage with a mesh or wire top (1/2 inch or less clearance) and a deep plastic or glass tank floor that is 40 x 22.5 inches to allow for at least 10 inches of bedding.

What is the best cage for a dwarf hamster?

A dwarf hamster needs a similar cage that measures 40 x 17.5 inches with 6-8 inches of litter.

Featured image: iStock.com/JD Bang

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Should you let a hamster out of its cage? Almost every hamster owner asks this question at some point. When your little furry friend is standing at the bars of his/her cage, staring out from between the bars with that adorable pathetic expression that just screams, “Let me out of here!!!” you’re only too tempted to grant him his freedom. Ah, but should you?

The basic answer to the question, “Should you let a hamster out of its cage?” is yes, absolutely. Like all other creatures, hamsters need exercise. Most hamster owners release their pets from their cages on a daily basis, and many experts recommend giving them that freedom at least once a week. Much like humans, hamsters are happier and healthier overall when allowed to roam freely outside of their steel-reinforced enclosures.

Now wouldn’t you like to know how to accomplish this feat in a way that preserves the life and safety of your precious pet at all times? We all know that the outside world is full of potential risks for small, defenseless animals; Dangers and obstacles that you can even find in your own home. How can you ensure your hamster’s stays are fun, uneventful, peaceful, and most importantly, safe? Now read on for some essential tips and tricks on how to coordinate the perfect Hammie’s Day Out for virtually all hamster species, including Syrian, Dwarf/Roborovski, and Siberian….

Should hamsters be allowed free rein in the house?

In a word: no.

In two words: Hell no.

As previously mentioned, even ordinary household furnishings and objects can pose a great danger to your furry friend, who is very quick on his feet and once released can be difficult to contain.

These potential hazards can include:

Other pets

A pet that could become a predator and sees your hamster as a potential luncheon. Your dog or cat could use their size advantage to stalk your hamster with the aim of chasing, biting, or maybe even eating.

leftovers

Just like dogs and cats, hamsters should not be allowed to eat human food; Edibles that are not intended to be consistent with their diet and to support their health. But try to tell that to your hamster, who will no doubt try to pounce on and gobble up any little morsel that comes their way.

Random Objects

Similarly, your ever-hungry Hammy may consider misplaced balls, buttons, needles, toys, or other small items as treats; devour them before you or another family member can stop them. A number of health problems can result, ranging from choking to serious digestive problems.

sockets

Just as you would your children or younger siblings, you want to protect your hamsters and other pets from all outlets and fixtures in your home.

Possible escape routes

Free roaming hamsters might run headfirst through an open door or window, dog door, or other portal. So how do you contain a hamster without a cage? Well, that leads us to our next point of inquiry, which just so happens to be…

How do you isolate and protect a hamster without a cage?

How do you cage a hamster without actually – erm – caged it?

Well, when it comes to controlling and protecting a hamster without a cage, you have a number of options.

playpen

While a playpen is an enclosed space, it tends to offer more space than a cage and is not covered or locked in any way. and believe it or not, specialized hamster pens are available on the market today. Turn a pen into your hamster’s playground with toys and treats.

Hamster in the playpen:

boxes

A large box might make a useful playground for a cageless hamster; provided that the box is large and capacious and has no lid or lid. Otherwise the box could remind the hamster too much of its home cage.

Enclosed spaces or spaces

Some hamster owners choose to let their prized pets roam free in spaces or spaces that do not contain inherent hazards or potential exits and escape routes. This can be bathtubs, storage rooms, laundry rooms, etc.

How do you know when it’s time to get your hamster out of the cage?

Some hamster owners reserve pre-determined play times for their pets; They may let them out of their playpens first thing in the morning, after dinner at night, etc. Others wait for their hamsters to tell them they are ready to play. Not verbally, of course; and if you actually hear these or other real words gushing out of your hamster’s mouth, you might want to read a very different kind of self-help article.

But seriously folks; Your hamster has their own unique ways of communicating their need for freedom. These include:

bar rattle. Just like restless prison birds in those old black and white gangster movies, a restless hamster can climb the bars of his cage and let you know in no uncertain terms that he’s more than ready for his (temporary) release. Haunting and repetitive noises. If your hamster squeaks or hisses loudly and repeatedly, he may be telling you he’s ready to run! Constant movement in the cage. Hamsters running, pacing, the length of their cage may feel cramped or cramped; thus signaling the need for their release. Hamster wants to be free:

How can you make a hamster’s playtime more enjoyable?

A hamster playpen – or heck, an empty bathtub – can be transformed into a playground with just a few changes and additions. This could include:

toys . Fill your hamster’s play area with the balls, dolls and other different toys that make him happy.

. Fill your hamster’s play area with the balls, dolls and other different toys that make him happy. treats . Try sprinkling some of your hamster’s favorite treats into his crate or enclosure.

. Try sprinkling some of your hamster’s favorite treats into his crate or enclosure. You. Do this for the time being to bond with your beloved Hammy. Stroke, play and cuddle to your heart’s content.

Hamster playing with toys in the playpen:

Should I go outside with my hamster?

Pet owners often find removing their hamsters from their cages a challenge; should they even dare to take them out of their homes?

This is a tricky proposition as it is virtually impossible to walk a Hammie on a collar and leash (try it once and tell us we’re wrong). And they fear that their hamster will run into the street.

However, what you can do is:

Carry the hamster outside and hold your pet for the duration of their playtime. Only do this if you are 100% sure you won’t let her go even if she bites or scratches you! Always keep a small cage or container with you for emergencies.

Take your hamster’s playpen outside where he can get some fresh air while still being in a safe, protected area.

Allow your hamster to run around on the floor of your enclosed patio area or fenced backyard; provided, of course, that area does not contain a swimming pool or other potential hazards. Make 100% sure your hamster has nowhere to get lost or get out of the enclosure and fully supervise them at all times.

Hamsters playing outside:

Remember – never put your hamster in a situation where he or she can dart away and disappear. If you ever take your hamster outside, you must be in 100% control of the hamster and the enclosed environment you release him or her into. If you’re not sure – or you’re not an experienced owner – stick to indoor safety.

When should my hamster go back in the cage?

Some pet owners choose to incorporate their hamsters’ playtime into their daily routine; Allow 20-30 minutes each day for your restless pets to roam freely outside their cages. Others look for these surefire signs that their hammies are ready to become homies. These include:

attachment. If your hamster is clinging to you or trying to hide in the palm of your hand, then he might be a bit suspicious of the outside world. Fatigue. When your hamster is yawning, whimpering, or closing his eyes, relaxing, or snuggling up in his enclosure, he may be ready to retire to his bed. Enough game for one day! Nervousness. If your hamster hisses, twitches, or is generally restless (much like your aunt after too much coffee), then they may be craving the safety of their cage.

We’re sure your feisty, playful hamster is ready to take on the world; but the real question is, is the world ready to take on your hammie?!

What is free roaming? Why should I let my hamster roam free?

Free running, as the name suggests, is when you allow your hamster to roam freely in a large enclosed space such as a room. Running around allows your hamster to exercise and explore spaces other than its own cage.

It’s generally fine for Syrians to roam around freely in a room, but it’s recommended that Dwarves or Roborowskis roam around in a smaller area like a playpen, as they’re smaller and faster, making them harder to track . There is also a higher chance that they will get stuck in gaps, e.g. B. between cupboards or under furniture. However, as long as your hamster is easy to handle or your room is hamster-proof, it’s fine to let your hamsters roam free, regardless of species.

How to move freely

Here are rules to follow when your hamster is free-roaming in your room:

Monitor your hamster’s movements at all times. Syrians have the dexterity to climb into closets, windows and other enclosed spaces. They also have the power to climb onto high platforms such as chairs and curtains. Some hamsters will also try to bite wood or fabrics like curtains. Keep an eye out for your hamsters to protect them. Choose a well-ventilated room or an unused bathroom with closed doors. Add toys, tunnels, hideouts and treats around the room. You can also add a sand bath (if your hamster is potty trained) since he can pee when he’s free to run. Add hiding spots if your hamster gets overwhelmed by the large space. Add an exercise wheel or flying saucer for your hamster to run on for extra stimulation.

Security:

Keep the following items out of the reach of hamsters: electrical and telephone cords.

Medicines, plants, food and cleaning products

Anything you don’t want your hamsters to come into contact with Block off any areas you don’t want your hamster to enter Use a heavy object to block off areas like closets, gaps, or dangerous areas Keep other pets out of the house from entering the room

Like playpen?

Choose a sufficiently large playpen. Here are some recommended playpens:

There are a number of interactive hamster toys to choose from. Place a puzzle house in the cage for your hamster to explore. There are also cardboard mazes that provide both entertainment and chews. Make sure the toy you choose is made for hamsters. Never add small toys made for children as they can choke your hamster or cause an intestinal obstruction. One of the best interactive toys you can give your hamster is a hollow ball. Hamsters love rolling around the house and exploring all the different attractions. Plus, it’s great exercise.

Ideally, keep a dwarf hamster in a stable environment with a temperature of around 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Hamsters can experience more heat and slightly cooler temperatures, but a temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit or less can chill a hamster and make them ill in a short time. Attach a thermometer to the case to monitor the temperature. While you’re at it, get a hygrometer to measure humidity. Your hamster’s habitat needs about 40 percent humidity to maintain supple skin. Add a shallow pool of water to the enclosure if the humidity is too low. These ranges apply to all dwarf hamsters, including the winter white or Djungarian and other so-called cold climate hamsters.

Hamsters are wide awake all night and it’s only natural that by day when it’s light they’re exhausted. Most hamsters use light hours to close much-needed eyes. If you have children who want to play with a pet all day, for example, a hamster may not be the most appropriate animal for your specific lifestyle needs. It’s not uncommon for Hammies to feel quite grumpy when they can’t sleep during the day or are woken up unexpectedly. Some of them even bite when disturbed from their daytime sleep, so it’s important to keep children out of these situations. Always be aware of a hamster’s natural need for daytime sleep. If this is not the case, not only could this lead to temperament problems in your hamster, but possible health problems as well.

Did you know that hamsters can catch a cold? Your little pet can get sniffles, just like us. Unfortunately, chicken soup and Netflix marathons won’t do much for your little pal. In this article, your local Welland vet goes over some of the basics on how to tell if your pet has a cold.

prevention

As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. The best way to keep your hamster healthy is to provide them with a clean and suitable habitat. Make sure your pet’s cage is not too close to drafts, especially in winter. Hamsters are very sensitive to temperature so you should also keep him in a room with the right temperature which would be between 60 and 75 degrees. Another thing that can sometimes make hamsters sick is if they get water in a bowl, as bowl water can easily become contaminated. When you are sick, avoid touching your pet as your little furry ball could catch your cold.

symptoms

Hamsters with a cold often show the same symptoms as humans. Your pet may sniffle or sneeze, and their little nose may run. You may also find that your pet seems a little lethargic: maybe they just curl up to sleep and don’t want to do much. His small body may feel warm and he may be thirstier than usual. Watery eyes, matted fur and eye or nose discharge also indicate a cold in hamsters. When the cold is severe, Hammie’s fur can become very matted and he can lose his appetite. A word of caution: It’s important to note that these things can be symbolic of other diseases as well. So if you notice any of these symptoms in your pet, contact your vet immediately for a proper diagnosis.

treatment

There is still no cure for a cold. Once your vet has confirmed that your furball has a cold, they may prescribe antibiotics, but this will help with the symptoms of the cold, not the cold itself. There are a few things you can do to help your pet recover faster. First, you should clean and disinfect his cage and everything in it, and change his bedding. Next, make sure his cage is warm enough. You can also try offering your little pal some warm milky water and honey. Ask your vet for specific amounts and feeding schedules.

Should hamsters live alone or be kept in pairs?

Have you ever worried that your hamster will get lonely if you leave them alone?

Are you wondering if having one more hamster – or more time with people – will make your hamster happier and keep him from loneliness?

In this article we will learn all about hamster loneliness and if you should be worried if your hamster lives alone.

Do hamsters get lonely?

The simple answer to this question is no; Hamsters don’t get lonely.

Although they are often kept as pets today, hamsters were originally desert animals. In the desert, resources like food and water are limited, so hamsters have evolved to protect their territory and resources from other hamsters.

Should hamsters live alone or be kept in pairs?

Because they are so territorial, it’s generally best to only keep one hamster per cage.

Adding more than one hamster to the same enclosure could lead to some really nasty fights. Possibly even to death! This is especially true for Syrian hamsters.

Dwarf hamsters are more sociable than Syrian hamsters, but you have to be careful. If you decide to keep a pair of dwarf hamsters, it is important to introduce them to their cage at the same time and at a young age.

Adding one hamster after another will cause fighting as the first hamster tries to defend its territory against the second hamster.

If you have two hamsters living happily together and one of them dies, then do not add a new second hamster. They will almost certainly start fighting!

Put two hamsters in the same cage

If you decide to keep two hamsters together in the same cage, you should follow these steps to help them live happily together:

Acclimate both hamsters to a new home – not a home where either hamster has ever lived. Choose a large cage – there are many available. The cage should be large enough for both hamsters to have plenty of space – and two people should fit everything into the cage. Two food bowls, two water bottles, two hamster wheels, two roosts, etc. Go through the introduction process when they are young – don’t put adult hamsters in the same cage! Put a hamster in a small cage and put that small cage inside the larger cage. Release the other hamster in the big cage. Let the hamsters get used to each other over several days. They often sniff each other through the bars of the small cage with a hamster. Swap the hamsters every day so that they alternate between the small cage and the large cage moving freely. Wait at least a week and then – as long as the hamsters are not aggressive towards each other – remove the small cage, leaving both hamsters free to sit in the large cage. Watch the hamsters closely and put one back in the small cage if there are signs of aggression. Both hamsters are free in the main cage and are not showing any signs of aggression. If the hamsters are still aggressive after performing the above process a few times, you must accept that the introduction failed. Buy a second cage and always keep the two hamsters separate. Unfortunately, the two just don’t get along!

Should I play with my hamster?

Yes! Although this article may give the impression that hamsters are aggressive animals, they behave toward other hamsters, not humans.

Hamsters are much friendlier to people than other hamsters, so it’s okay to play with them. Just make sure they get used to interacting with you first and consider wearing thick gloves until they learn not to bite.

5 reasons why hamsters chew on cage bars – and how to stop them

Is your hamster chewing on its cage bars? Mine does too from time to time and I know it’s awful to hear and bad for his teeth. I’m going to tell you what I know about how to stop your Hammy from chewing the cage bars and how to prevent it. Keep in mind that some hamsters just have this habit and often have their teeth on the bars (or anything else) just like that. I also tell you what to do in these cases. Table of contents So why do hamsters chew on the bars? About rodents and chewing in general Get your hamster a bigger cage A hamster’s teeth are constantly growing Anxiety/stress is a common problem in hamsters Your hamster needs your attention or is curious about something Some hamsters develop a habit of chewing on the bars of what you can do against the hamster’s chewingchew toys for the hamsterdistract the hamstertrain the hamsterplay with the hamsterwhat to do if your hamster just can’t stop chewing on the barsput the hamster in a glass containerput the hamster cage in another roomis a hamster a good one choice for a pet? A word from Teddy So ​​why do hamsters chew on the bars? Hamsters are rodents, so by default they chew on everything. Nonetheless, here is a short, no-nonsense list of the main reasons why your hamster will chew on their cage bars: Small cage – this is often a big problem as many hamsters are kept in tiny cages. Growing Teeth – Rodent teeth never stop growing, they always have something to chew and nibble on. Anxiety/Stress – Hamsters can develop this habit to cope with something. Need Attention/Curiosity – Hamsters need to see and know everything and will ask for attention. Habit – they’ve gotten this habit and it’s going to be hard to unlearn. Hammies are known to be quiet pets, but letting them chew on the bars is incredibly annoying. Aside from being a possible sign that something is wrong, it’s also bad for your teeth. Just because the metal is too hard for their teeth and they need something softer like wood to chew on. We will cover this list in this article so that you have a better understanding of why hamsters chew on the cage bars. But first, let’s talk a little bit about rodents and chewing in general so we can understand why this is happening from their perspective. About Rodents and Chewing in General All rodents – hamsters, mice, guinea pigs, rabbits, squirrels, etc. – have an innate need to chew. Your teeth never stop growing. If they don’t keep an eye on the growth, it can be deadly. So rodents have to constantly chew and nibble something. This is normal for them and is a very good habit for filing their teeth. But what about rodents? Well, your hamster doesn’t know that the sound of his chewing is terrifying to you. And yet his teeth keep growing and have to be filed again and again. Another thing about rodents, they also like to try everything with their teeth. Just as baby humans put random objects in their mouths to “learn” them, rodents will try things too. It’s just that they’ll never grow out of this phase. So be prepared for this to happen again and again. However, there are a few things you can do to reduce the likelihood of your hamster chewing on the bars. Let’s get straight to them. Get Your Hamster a Bigger Cage One of the reasons, maybe half the time, is that hamsters are kept in cages that are way too small. The hamsters end up feeling cramped and grumpy. It varies from hamster to hamster type, but the bare minimum is 24 x 12 inches and about 12 inches tall. That is 61 x 30.5 cm and about 30.5 cm high. That’s true for an adult Syrian hamster, but I’d recommend it’s the minimum even for a dwarf type. Hamsters need a lot of space, they run around a lot, they sprint on the fly and often dig. This takes up more space than you initially think. The small, square cages you can buy at the pet store – which are the ones most commonly sold when you get your Hammy – are way too small. A good guide to hamster cages can be found here. Always opt for a larger cage with plenty of floor space. Hamsters need this space and will get nervous and irritable if they don’t know where and how to get around. This is crucial, especially if you keep two hamsters in one cage. They need to be able to hide from each other, run away and have plenty of space to themselves when needed. Otherwise, they will end up chewing the bars to escape or escape or just to let out that fear and stress. A hamster’s teeth are always growing. That’s usually the problem. Hamsters are rodents, so their teeth will always grow. So you always have to put them down. There isn’t much you can do about this other than give the hamster chew toys. There is a lot more information on this in the rest of the article. Your Hammy will always try to get used to everything. Sometimes to chew, sometimes to try. But there are moments when they often chew. This is when their teeth get a growth spurt of sorts and the hammies feel an instinctive need to chew on something. The best thing you can do for a rodent, especially if you’ve noticed they’re a big chewer, is to keep them in a large glass container. There is nothing to chew there except the toys. Anxiety/stress is a common problem in hamsters A hamster is used to hiding and being alert all day, every day. That means it’s prone to stress and stress-related illnesses. This also means that they often need a way to relieve their stress. Most of the time, the hamster will chew on the hardest surface it can find – the bars of the cage. He’ll still use his chew toys, but the hard surface of the cage bars will still be interesting. Some reasons why hamsters can develop anxiety and stress can be: being scared too often – they are very easily startled being bullied by their cage mate – common new home problem – baby hamsters can sometimes be very slow to adjust to their new home poor housing – Small cage, wrong bedding, not enough food, no exercise, that can be many things. What you can do is try to make life easier for your hamster. So, if your Hammy is often afraid – from a sudden noise or when the dog looks at him, then you need to read this article. Remember that hamsters are easily scared, so some things just can’t be helped. If your Hammy is being bullied by his cagemate, you need to separate the two. This is a problem that can appear seemingly out of nowhere, even for hamsters that appeared to get along. Always keep an eye on them when you have a pair. Your hamster needs your attention or is curious about something. Hamsters are incredibly curious and will want to check everything out. Even if they are scared, they will still try to investigate that sound. Most of the time, they’re investigating or hearing things because they’re listening for predators. But a hamster will work up the courage to go to the cage bars and try to see, hear and smell why that bag is making those noises. He will sometimes ask for your attention even when you are doing something else and didn’t realize he woke up. In these cases, it’s best to give the hamster some attention, but be careful. If you hear teeth chattering and see him very excited and nervous, don’t touch him directly. A hamster with chattering teeth is not a playful one. He is curious but has an energy rush that makes him difficult to handle and has a tendency to bite. It’s best to play with him indirectly. Like a piece of paper towel through the bars and a piece of cardboard in his cage like playing with a cat. Some hamsters develop a habit of chewing on the bars. Unfortunately, this habit is very difficult to break. Mainly because it’s kind of addictive for hammies. They love the sound and feel of their teeth on the bars, as much as it might make you flinch. So getting your hamster to let go of something he loves will be incredibly difficult. The best option for this is to completely remove the bars. This in turn means placing the hammy in a glass container. For hamsters that have developed the habit of chewing the bars, no matter how big their cage gets, they will find the corners and chew on them. A few things other people have tried – blowing on the hamster, using a paper towel on its nose, or even citrus oil on the bars – don’t work. They’re just temporary relief, just for a few minutes. The hamster will start chewing again, this time with a vengeance. And in some cases, if you have two hamsters in the same cage, they can copy each other. If one of them starts chewing on the bars, the other will likely follow suit. If that’s the case, you probably need to separate them. or stir both in a glass container. Sometimes there isn’t much you can do. But you have to try everything else before you put him in a glass tank. What You Can Do About Your Hamster Chewing Here are a few things you can actually do about your hamster chewing on the cage bars. They work, some temporarily, some permanently, depending on your hamster and the reason he’s chewing. My teddy still chews on the bars for a few minutes now and then. I usually distract him and put him in another room at night anyway so I don’t hear him when I’m sleeping. Hammy Chew Toys You can help your hamster by obtaining or making chew toys and placing them randomly around his cage. This means that your hamster will have many more opportunities to chew on solid things in its cage. Often your Hammy will need something wood-based to chew on. The bars are too hard for your hamster’s teeth, even though he likes to chew on them. So you need to provide him with some chew toys. You’ll find a whole article on hamster toys here, and you’ll also get store-bought and DIY ideas. Mineral chewing gum is actually not that beneficial for your hamster. They are marketed as a chewing aid and are intended to bring more minerals into your hamster’s diet. But the truth is, hamsters don’t need more minerals if they’re already on a good diet. This is ensured by a ready-made feed mixture. Distracting the hamster You can distract the hamster and it will work most of the time. As in, after you stop paying attention to the hamster, it probably won’t chew on the bars for a few hours, or at least enough time to fall asleep. Train the Hamster Training your Hammy is probably the best way to get him to distract himself. You can do this in two ways. First, you can use his impeller. If it’s a wheel that he can see through, such as wire mesh, you can use a piece of kitchen paper to guide your hamster through his cage and into the wheel. Then your hamster will try to get hold of the paper towel or your hand. But if you place it right in front of him while he’s sitting in the wheel, the hamster will end up running and trying to get to you. You can do this several times a day or whenever your Hammy seems restless. Let him come to the paper towel every now and then to keep things interesting. Secondly, you can train the hamster by putting him in his exercise ball – you can read more about this here. Once he’s in the stability ball, let him roam the house as much as he likes, but make sure you don’t exceed 30 minutes per session. Your Hammy needs some water and some food, and he can’t find them in the exercise ball. Also, make sure your Hammy can’t fall down stairs or your other pets can’t reach him. A barking, inquisitive dog or playful cat will startle the hamster and only worry him more. Be warned, though, exercise balls can be noisy themselves. The hamster will smack it against the furniture, walls, the corner of your coffee table, the door, anything. This allows you to either secure an area where you let your hamster roam or put up with the noise. To seal off the area, all you have to do is cover the surfaces that the ball can hit with a textile like a blanket or towel to absorb sound. Or, in the case of odd corners, you can just put a slipper in the way and the Hammy won’t be able to reach that corner. Play with the hamster You can also play with your hamster to distract him. But again, if his teeth are chattering and he looks kinda weird, it’s best not to touch him directly. Give him a puzzle toy – see an example here – or use a piece of cardboard to guide him through an obstacle course in his cage. Or you can pick him up when he seems pretty calm. Let the hamster walk over your hands, talk to him, pet him like you normally would. But if it seems like it’s about to jump out of your hands, make sure you’re really close to its cage. (If you like this article so far, you can pin it to your Pinterest board by clicking the image below. Article continues after the image.) What to do when your hamster just can’t stop latching on chew? much you can do. If you’ve tried every little thing you can think of and every other alternative you’ve found so far in this article and your hamster is still chewing, then it’s time to do something else. Move the hamster into a glass tank Your hamster has nothing to chew when it is in a glass tank. The glass doesn’t give him anything to hold on to, just plain, smooth, straight glass that he can’t do anything with. In that case, you need to give your hamster plenty of wooden-based toys to play with. He will chew on every little thing he can get his paws on. The hiding place, the toy, the food bowl, even the water bottle in some cases. So make sure the glass tank is big enough to accommodate your hamster or hamsters if you have more than one. And in this article you will find ideas for wooden beds and hideaways. You can find a lot of toy ideas here and depending on what type of wheel you had before it might need to be replaced. More information about the exercise bike can be found here. Where to find a real glass tank, see this Amazon link for an example. It’s the minimum space required for a single hamster, and you can check out the reviews too. In all honesty, I recommend buying a glass container from a pet store, or anywhere you can actually see the container for yourself. This way you can organize the transport and you have control over whether or not the glass breaks on the journey home. As you know, glass is difficult to transport safely, so it’s best to bring it with you. Still, you can check the link above to at least see what glass tanks have to offer and what price range they would be in. Put the hamster cage in another room. This is a last resort. If you don’t want or can’t afford a large enough glass tank for your hamster, then this is your other option. Glass tanks cannot be moved as easily as a cage. But a cage can be moved to a separate room temporarily or permanently. If your hamster keeps chewing on the bars and just won’t stop no matter what, you can move him to another room so you can at least have some peace. However, there are a few things to consider before moving the hamster. The temperature of the room you bring the hamster into must be constant. Hamsters need a range of between 20 and 23°C to be comfortable and anything below or above this range can make them uncomfortable. If your hamster is exposed to sudden, very cold temperatures, it may hibernate in some cases. But since it’s sudden, it can actually be fatal to him depending on how long it lasts. Here is more information on hamster overwintering and how to save your Hammy. So check on your Hammy every day to make sure he is comfortable in his room. Make sure he is safe from other pets or overly curious young children. Is a Hamster a Good Choice for a Pet? In that case, after talking about all the fuss a hamster can make while chewing the bars, you would think no, they don’t make good pets. But the truth is, at least in my opinion, hamsters actually make good pets. They are quiet most of the time and will not bother you often. It’s just that they have some very specific necessities – like chewing and temperature – which can then make them a bit iffy. A hamster is not as easy to tame – and tame – as a dog or cat and does not respond well to being mishandled or angered. For this reason, I would advise against getting your child a hamster of any kind. Children would need a gentler, more loving pet, such as a dog that can take the full force of a child attacking them or pulling their tail. You can read about whether or not hamsters make good pets here – and get a more in-depth look at why you need to know yourself and your limitations before getting a pet hamster. A word from Teddy I hope this gives you some good ideas on how to stop one of us hammies from chewing the cage bars. Sometimes we just love chewing the bars and other times we can stop if you give us an alternative. It depends from Hammy to Hammy. If you want to know more about hamsters and why we sometimes do weird things like eating our poop or suddenly getting cold, you should check out the following articles….

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Where should you place your hamster cage? Although some people will say you can place it anywhere, keep the following considerations in mind:

cage temperature

Noise

hamster safety

temperature

Hamsters may be rodents, but they are just as sensitive to heat and cold as we are. If a hamster gets too hot, he or she can get heat stroke. If a hamster gets too cold, he or she may hibernate.

When deciding where to place your hamster cage:

Put the cage in a place that has enough ventilation. That said, make sure fresh air can easily flow in and out of the cage.

Place the cage in a location that provides adequate ventilation. That said, make sure fresh air can easily flow in and out of the cage. Make sure the cage is on a solid and level surface.

Make sure the cage is on a solid and level surface. Do not place the cage outside.

Put the cage outside. Do not place the cage on a basement floor as it can get cold, especially in winter and at night. If you must keep your hamster in the basement, elevate the cage by placing it on a stable platform. And provide enough bedding material for your hamster to dig deep.

Place the cage on a basement floor as it gets cold, especially in winter and at night. If you must keep your hamster in the basement, elevate the cage by placing it on a stable platform. And provide enough bedding material for your hamster to dig deep. Don’t put the cage in a window where it can get too much air and sun.

Place the cage in a window where it can get too much air and sun. Do not place the cage directly in front of an air conditioner. This will blow too much cold air directly on your hamster.

Place the cage directly in front of an air conditioner. This will blow too much cold air directly on your hamster. Do not place the cage near anything that gets too hot, such as B. a space heater or a fireplace.

Place the cage near anything that gets too hot, such as B. a space heater or a fireplace. Do not put the cage in a place where it will be exposed to direct sunlight. This can lead to dehydration and heat stroke in the hamster.

Also keep in mind that the temperature inside a hamster’s cage is a few degrees higher than the ambient air temperature – especially if you’re using an aquarium as a cage.

Noise

Remember that hamsters are most active in the evening. They like to sleep during the day. So put your cage in a place that is quiet during the day so they can rest.

security

When you think of hamster safety, you probably think of your hamster escaping its cage. Yes, this is a real security issue. But there’s another important safety issue to consider when deciding where to place your hamster’s cage — other pets.

Hamsters have a good sense of smell. They may become stressed or frightened when they sense other animals around. If possible, place your hamster cage out of the reach of other pets first. If possible, place the cage in a space where other pets cannot get in or will not be allowed in.

No matter how cute you think it looks, don’t allow your other pets to rest on your hamster’s cage. This will also startle your hamster.

Pets like cats or ferrets will naturally attack and eat your hamster. Your petting reptile, such as an iguana, will do the same. Birds will peck at your hamster and injure him or her. A dog may not eat your hamster, but a dog’s paw is quite dangerous for something the size of a hamster. Also, your hamster will startle if a barking dog gets too close.

So please make sure your hamster cage has a lid and keep your other pets away from your hamster. This will provide your hamster with a safe environment.

WHAT NOT TO DO IF YOU HAVE A HAMSTER

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Have you thought about adopting a hamster? Then you should read today’s article to learn more about what not to do when welcoming this little rodent into your family. Beginners often lack experience and can make innocent mistakes that could have easily been avoided had they learned more about the true needs of these small creatures.

It goes without saying that hamsters are easier to care for than dogs, for example. Nonetheless, they too deserve a beautiful and peaceful life, so it’s best not to get carried away with the excitement of the moment. Here are some of the MOST COMMON MISTAKES that novice hamsters make, a list not to do:

1) PLACE THE CAGE IN THE KITCHEN OR NEAR AN OPEN WINDOW. Avoid putting your hamster in noisy rooms where people come and go 24 hours a day. Hamsters love quiet places, away from drafts and direct sunlight, away from the TV and kitchen, where the strong smell of food disturbs their finely tuned sense of smell. Make sure he has plenty of things to play with, a plate for his food, a source of water, a bed to sleep in, and more importantly, an exercise bike.

2) ADOPT TWO OF THEM. Hamsters don’t need company, they are loners, really selfish and they don’t like to share their things with other hamsters. If put in the same cage they could fight or mate and then you would have a cage full of hamsters!

3) Feed them only sunflower seeds. Hamsters undoubtedly need to eat sunflower seeds, but just like us, they need a varied diet of healthy foods. So prepare a good mix of seeds (soy, barley and millet), give them lots of vegetables and sometimes indulge in walnuts, almonds and pine nuts.

4) WASH YOUR HAMSTER. Hamsters should never be washed. They are very clean animals and take care of their own hygiene. What you could do is provide them with a small basin of chincilla sand. If you smell unpleasant odors coming from the cage, it might be time to change the litter box!

5) SUDDENLY WAKE HER. If your hamster is sleeping peacefully with that cute little smile under his whiskers, then leave him alone. We know it’s hard not to pat his head a little when you see him like this, but waking him up when he’s fast asleep can actually be dangerous to his health. If you want to play with him, do so in the late afternoon or evening when he is wide awake and rested.

Now that you have a better idea of ​​what NOT to do, get one. And remember, treat your hamster like family, give him lots of love and care every day!

Hamsters are wide awake all night and it’s only natural that by day when it’s light they’re exhausted. Most hamsters use light hours to close much-needed eyes. If you have children who want to play with a pet all day, for example, a hamster may not be the most appropriate animal for your specific lifestyle needs. It’s not uncommon for Hammies to feel quite grumpy when they can’t sleep during the day or are woken up unexpectedly. Some of them even bite when disturbed from their daytime sleep, so it’s important to keep children out of these situations. Always be aware of a hamster’s natural need for daytime sleep. If this is not the case, not only could this lead to temperament problems in your hamster, but possible health problems as well.

Hamsters sleep during the day, often when the entire household is away, whether at school, work, or running errands. They usually naturally retire to sleep once noon rolls around. If they sleep for a few hours, they usually get up quickly. They then usually fall back asleep only to get up in the evening – and then stay up and at it all night. If you go to bed early and wake up early for the day, you may not see your hamster awake all that often. Hamster plans often work well for people who work late hours. If your work requires you to get up bright and early, a hamster’s use of an exercise wheel could prevent you from sleeping peacefully.