Burn Bark In Wood Stove? The 160 Top Answers

Burning Tips ~ By John Bergstrom

Wood is a unique source of renewable stored solar energy – one that is more complex and diverse than other fuels. The energy in wood exists in both solid and gaseous form. Almost half the energy in firewood is in gas or smoke, and failure to properly burn the gases present in the wood can result in energy loss and either pollution or potentially dangerous creosote buildup in chimneys.

Newer, EPA-approved wood stoves are known to burn cleanly and efficiently. And with the right understanding of how a wood stove operates, they can burn at maximum efficiency, resulting in more heat, cleaner glass, less air pollution, and a cleaner chimney.

There are two types of combustion systems in clean-burning wood stoves – natural combustion and catalytic systems. Natural incinerators burn cleanly through their simple but ingenious design of primary and secondary air supply systems and combustion zones within the firebox. Catalytic designs have a replaceable catalytic burner that lowers the ignition temperature of the wood gases, much like a car’s catalytic converter.

Most kilns today have a fire control that controls the primary air and provides glass air washing. Air enters the firebox at the top just behind the glass, sweeps the glass down to the bed of coals and finally to the fire in the furnace. When you start or rekindle fires, you cause the air at the bottom face (near the glass) of the stove to flow back into the new wood, resulting in a much more reactive fire.

The bed of coal drives the entire clean combustion system, especially in natural incinerators. Establishing and maintaining a charcoal bed is necessary for clean fires and clean glass, especially with wet or oversized wood. The maintenance and management of the coal seam results in the cleanest burning and glass. In most stoves, the combustion system is designed to burn from front to back. As the fire burns down, the most responsive fires are created by raking the coals forward from the back of the stove before refilling. A rake or hoe-like tool is almost essential for manipulating the bed of coal in front-loading furnaces. It’s not uncommon to see at least a 2-inch bed of coals raked in just behind the glass door and only dead ash in the back two-thirds of the stove when refueling.

The accumulation of ash in the firebox helps maintain higher furnace temperatures for cleaner burns and more even fires. The ash insulates and helps maintain a hotter coal bed. Many stoves don’t burn well until they have several fires of ash in the firebox. General advice for the best burns is to keep at least 3/4 inch of ash in the kiln at all times.

10 things you should never burn in your fireplace or wood stove

It can be difficult to know what not to burn in your fireplace. It seems like anything that can be burned can go straight in as the smoke and fumes rise straight up the chimney. Some items can pose a fire hazard or release a cocktail of toxic fumes throughout your home and neighborhood. We’ve compiled a list of 10 things you should never burn in your fireplace.

Sue Pike

Editor’s Note: This column first appeared in York Weekly in 2013.

Paper birch (also called white birch) is an iconic tree of the north and is probably our most easily recognized tree due to its distinctive white bark. The scientific name Betula papyrifera refers to the bark. The genus name Betula means birch, which according to Bill Casselman’s Canadian Word of the Day is a “very old Indo-European tree word, its root bherja meaning birch is the light tree, a reference to its chalk-white bark.” The words birch and bright are cognate words, words coming from the same root group in Indo-European…; Words related to white shiny, shimmering, blazing, burning.”

The species name is Papyrifera. Roughly translated from Greek, this means papyrus, which means reeds from which paper was made.

Paper birch certainly lends itself to comparisons with paper; The bark is smooth and white and combustible. It turns out that this whiteness is key to the birch’s ability to survive extreme cold. While not unique to the far north, the paper birch is a tree well-adapted to cold climates and thrives on the northernmost limits of tree growth in arctic Canada and Alaska. During cold winters, the thick, dark bark of an oak or ash tree becomes a burden, absorbing sunlight during the day and heating up only to cool again at night, usually fairly quickly. This heating and cooling can kill the cells of the cambium, the layer of cells between the bark and wood that is responsible for the trunk’s growth. Rapid temperature changes can also severely damage a tree by causing frost cracks in the bark.

The highly reflective, light-colored bark of a paper birch, on the other hand, absorbs neither solar radiation nor heat on cold winter days, thus avoiding damage caused by rapid heating and cooling.

What causes this extreme whiteness? This white powder that coats the bark is mostly made up of a chemical called betulin. The cells in the outer cortical layers contain betulin crystals arranged to reflect light and appear white. In addition to protecting against sun exposure and freeze-thaw cycles, the chemical nature of betulin also protects the tree from pests

The same betulin makes birch bark such a good fire starter. It is highly flammable. In fact, the dry form of betulinic acid can form clouds of airborne particles that can explode when ignited. Betulin is a hydrophobic (water-averse) molecule that gives birch bark its superior water-repellent properties. So birch bark is waterproof and flammable – great for starting a fire on a rainy day.

Recently, this betulin-laden white bark has attracted human interest for another reason. Betulinic acid (Betulin is a precursor to betulinic acid) is a biologically active chemical with anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antitumor properties and is the subject of medical research.

Obviously, White Birch did not think about advances in human medicine when developing betulin. This chemical has evolved over time as part of the white birch’s adaptive machinery, a tweak to the genetic code that resulted in a chemical that confers multiple benefits on this lucky tree. We are the lucky recipients of this evolutionary story; We live in close proximity to this multifaceted, brilliant white tree of the north.

Susan Pike, a researcher and teacher of environmental sciences and biology at St. Thomas Aquinas High School, welcomes your ideas for future column topics. She can be reached at [email protected]. Read more of her Nature News columns online.

Is birch good for firewood?

If you depend on wood to heat your home in the winter, it’s a good idea to use wood that burns efficiently and is readily available.

Birch is a good firewood as it burns well and produces a moderate amount of heat. It splits fairly easily and dries quickly once split. Birch bark makes an excellent fire starter due to its resemblance to paper.

Read on to learn more about birch and what makes it a great choice for firewood.

Common characteristics of birches

Birch is a deciduous hardwood with around 30 to 60 different species. They have shallow roots and typically grow in cool, moist forest soils.

They only live about 60 to 80 years and do not grow into very large trees. Most birches only grow to about 80 feet tall, huh

is nothing compared to a redwood tree, which generally grows to about 350 feet tall.

From afar, aspens are often confused with birches. Both have a white bark and look very similar. One of the easiest ways to tell the difference is to look at the bark up close. Birch bark feels chalky and peels off in thin, wispy layers. Aspen leaves are heart-shaped, while birch leaves are long and oval with roughly serrated edges.

Common varieties of birch used as firewood

There are many different species of birch, but the white birch, gray birch, yellow birch, and black birch are the most common species used for firewood.

White birch, also known as paper birch, owes its name to its thin white bark, which often peels off the trunk in papery layers. It doesn’t burn as hot as other birch species, making it one of the less desirable types of birch firewood. You’ll find White Birch primarily in the Northern States and Canada.

Gray Birch is most commonly found in the northeastern states of America. It only lives about 30 years and is commonly planted as a landscape tree.

Yellow birch is much harder to split than the others and dries slower due to its high sap content. Also known as swamp birch, it can be recognized by its silvery-yellow, smooth bark. It grows in the Appalachian Mountains.

Black birch is probably the most desirable firewood within the birch family as it produces the highest heat due to its dense fibres. It is also known as Mountain Mahogany, Sweet Birch, and Cherry Birch. Black Birch is most commonly found in the eastern states of America.

Working with birch firewood

All types of wood can be used as firewood, but some are better than others. In addition to examining how much heat is being produced, you also need to consider the aroma of the wood. Most woods produce fruity, nutty, or piney scents.

Birch wood has a unique smell. Yellow birch gives off a wintergreen aroma when burned. Some people say Gray Birch smells like incense when it burns. Most species of birch have a slightly sweet smell that most people find pleasant.

Is birch sap messy?

Birch sap is not dirty, especially compared to working with pine trees that get sap everywhere!

Birch sap is better known for its sweet taste. In the spring, a birch can be tapped for syrup just like a maple!

How hard is birch to split?

Birch should be split and stacked soon after falling as it tends to rot faster than most species. If you don’t have the time to split and stack it right away, at least have it broken down into smaller pieces and lifted off the ground until you can access it again.

A birch’s bark is so dense that it tends to retain moisture and rot from the inside out. You may consider scoring/slicing the rind while bucking if you need to store it before splitting.

The older the birch, the more difficult it becomes to split, as older birches tend to be more stringy. Additionally, birch trees growing in a garden and exposed to the wind will have a heavier grain, but you will have a harder time splitting them than a birch tree growing in a wooded area.

How long does birch take to season?

Birch can mature in 1 year or less if split and stacked immediately. Black Birch can season even faster. Yellow Birch takes a little longer.

To get the most energy out of your firewood, the wood should be seasoned. Seasoned firewood is described as having 20% ​​moisture content. A good rule of thumb is to cut firewood this year for use next year.

Burning green wood reduces the amount of heat generated by the fire. As the green wood burns, the energy generated by the fire is used to evaporate the moisture, resulting in wasted heat.

Buy an inexpensive, easy-to-use moisture meter like this to ensure your split wood is ready for the fire.

Does birch burn clean?

Birch is good firewood and burns similarly to Cherry, which has a BTU of 20 million per string. When birch is well seasoned, it doesn’t have a lot of smoke and doesn’t throw a lot of sparks.

Save the bark because it’s a great fire starter! Remember, birch bark peels like paper!

Depending on the species, birch produces between 20.3 and 26.8 million BTUs per string.

On average, a birch cord roughly corresponds to the following common heat sources:

22,710 cubic feet of natural gas.

258 gallons of propane.

170 liters of heating oil.

6,902 kilowatt hours of electricity.

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. A BTU is the amount of energy required to heat one pound of liquid water one degree Fahrenheit.

A cord of firewood is equivalent to 128 cubic feet of wood. Typically, firewood is cut into 16-inch lengths and tightly stacked in three rows, 4 feet high and 8 feet long, for a total of 128 cubic feet.

How does birch compare to other types of firewood?

Birch falls somewhere in the middle in terms of BTUs per cable. At the high end would be Eucalyptus at 34.5 million BTUs per cable and Osage Orange at 32.9 million. At the low end you have Ohio Buckeye at 12.1 million BTUs per cable and Linden Basswood at 13.8 million.

Fire quality, amount of smoke and creosote.

Green wood tends to smoke and smolder, creating the potential for creosote to form in the chimney. Creosote is nothing but a condensation of small, unburned particles contained in the smoke that coats the chimney’s surface as it exits. The creosote will stick to the sides of the chimney and can ignite and cause a chimney fire.

All wood produces creosote. Hardwoods like birch burn slower and lower, allowing the smoke to linger in the chimney longer, giving more opportunity for creosote build-up. You can reduce the amount of creosote by properly seasoning your firewood.

The pros and cons of burning birch as firewood

advantages

Splits fairly easily and dries quickly once split.

Birch bark makes an excellent fire starter due to its resemblance to paper.

Disadvantages

Vulnerable to rot if left unspilled for very long.

Other general uses

Native Americans have used birch bark canoes for hundreds of years because they are waterproof and rot resistant.

Birch is used to make popsicle sticks, toothpicks and toys.

Another use for birch bark is to make tea. In particular, black birch, its twigs and young bak have a rich evergreen aroma.

There are many different types of firewood to choose from. However, not all options are available to you as some trees only grow in certain parts of the country. In my opinion, if birch is available to me, I would not miss the opportunity to use it as firewood.

Tell me what kind of firewood you prefer in the comments below.

This is one of the questions that smokers and grill masters constantly discuss. If you want to use wood for smoking, does it matter whether the bark is still attached to it or not?

Some claim that it doesn’t matter that the bark imparts no off-flavors at all. Others report a slightly bitter taste when the food has been smoked with bark wood. There is also an intermediate group that peels off the bark when it is easy to remove or is already peeling but otherwise leaves it alone. Finally, there are some who say they’ve never thought about it either way.

In short, it’s a matter of personal taste and convenience – at least mostly. In some cases, leaving the bark on can be risky. That’s because bark can absorb and retain dangerous chemicals as well as other pollutants. The contact doesn’t have to be new, either: even when chemical use has ceased, nearby tree bark can still contain high concentrations of residue built up by airborne particles. Therefore, if you plan to use wood for smoking and are unsure where it came from, or you know the trees were near a facility that uses a lot of chemicals, it’s a good idea to buy the wood remove bark before use.

Are there any other factors to consider when deciding whether or not to remove the bark? As mentioned above, personal taste can also play a role. Some people claim that the rind can impart a slightly bitter taste to food, while others say they don’t notice any difference at all. If the bark peels off easily, be sure to remove it. If it’s difficult to remove and you trust the wood source, you might want to leave it on just to see if you can taste the difference or not.

Finally, there are also some concerns about temperature control. Barkwood is known to cause more flare-ups than skinned wood due to the volatile texture of the bark itself. This is potentially detrimental to the finished product, as smoked foods taste best when the temperature remains constant throughout the long process. While minor flare-ups aren’t a cause for concern, it’s something to consider, especially if the bark has grown heavily due to moss or lichen.

“To bark or not to bark?” is just one of many questions in the ongoing debate about how to make the best smoked meat. Have fun experimenting!

Get the best types of firewood for smoking from the best firewood supplier in the area. Call Wisconsin Firewood at 414-769-9663 and we’ll point you in the right direction. We’re easy to find on the south side of Milwaukee.

Is there an easy way to peel off tree branches to be used as walking sticks?

Andy Rae: It’s best to pick them in spring when the sap is rising. Gently prying off the blunt edge of a 3-inch rim, the rind will peel off instantly. Spatula. If you are forced to peel branches in winter, or after the bark and sap have dried, you can loosen the bark first by applying heat and water, most effectively in the form of steam. A steam box works just fine, but you could improvise something simpler by pouring boiling water over the chopsticks. While the wood is hot, take the same dull knife and start prying. It’s a fair bit of work, but you’ll still get that beautiful smooth surface created by nature underneath.

Mike Van Pelt: I would suggest a razor horse, drawknife and spokeshave. The razor horse offers excellent control and easy adjustment as you strip the bark. A curved spokeshave would help maintain the shape of the rounded branch.

As an Amazon and other program affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Wood chips are multifunctional and versatile. Here are the best uses for woodchips from a chipper:

Mulch for Landscaping Composting Covering Mud Grilling and Smoking Food Making Pathways Animal Bedding Playground Cushions Making Fires Erosion Control Building Raised Beds Growing Mushrooms

Don’t know what to do with wood chips from the hacker? Are you thinking of throwing them away?

Before you do that, you should read my 12 best uses for woodchips!

We throw things away quickly without ever trying to find an alternative use for them. Wood chips may look useless, but in reality they are every gardener’s gold.

Want to find out how to make them your gold too? Continue reading! The best uses for wood chips are listed and explained below.

The 12 best uses for wood chips from a chipper

Use wood chips as mulch

One of the best and easiest ways to use wood chips is to use them as mulch in your garden and landscaping.

Benefits of using wood chips as mulch

Wood chips bring many benefits to the soil. They help regulate temperature by keeping it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

Wood chips absorb water and help the soil retain moisture, even in summer. By using wood chips as mulch, you don’t have to water your prized plants as often and lower your water bill.

Last but not least, wood chips naturally decompose, improving the nutrient content and soil texture.

To get all of these benefits, place a 3-inch layer of wood shavings around your shrubs and on top of your flower bed. Just stay away from the base of the plants to allow the stems to grow and breathe.

Things to watch out for when using wood chips as a mulch

Just be careful that wood chips can cause nitrogen deficiencies in plants with shallow roots, such as seedlings and annuals. I recommend putting a layer of fall leaves on the bottom before mulching. Leaves protect the roots and provide essential nitrogen to plants in need.

I also don’t recommend using wood chips on disease-prone plants like tomatoes and roses. These easily contract fungal spores, which tend to live in wood.

You also shouldn’t worry about mulch made from woodchips attracting insects. Mulch provides a home for many beneficial creepy crawlies like earthworms, ladybugs, and spiders.

But what about termites? Mulch won’t attract termites, but it can provide a home for them if you already have them. This only becomes an issue if you have mulch right by your house. You can try to eradicate them with this termite killer if you notice them.

Want to know how to get rid of termites in mulch? Click here for more on the subject.

Watch this video to discover more reasons to use wood chips:

Turn wood chips into rich compost

Taking from nature and never giving back is a bad trade. Turning wood chips into rich compost is an amazing and clever way to give back.

How to compost wood chips

Converting woodchips into compost takes time and patience. Wood is a tougher material that takes longer to decompose than food scraps, grass clippings, and leaves.

Adding wood chips to your compost bin or pile will temporarily slow down the decomposition of all compost. That’s why it’s important to make your wood chips as fine as possible to speed things up.

Feed your compost pile gradually if you have a lot of wood chips on your hands. Also, make sure you add enough nitrogen-rich waste to the compost as well. This way you don’t throw the composting process off balance.

It’s worth the wait! Woodchips add a lot of carbon to your compost, making your soil ready to bear fruit and vegetables season after season.

Lay sidewalks and paths

Thinking of running paving stone walkways through your yard? Try reusing wood chips instead!

How to make a walkway out of wood chips

Laying a walkway out of wood chips is not difficult at all. Simply place 5 to 6 inches of wood shavings between raised plant beds, rocks, or any other path boundary you create. This way your wood chips will not spill onto your grass.

That’s it! You are done! What an amazing organic and eco-friendly idea!

Of course, you’ll have to refill your paths with fresh chips every year as the old ones start to crumble. But that shouldn’t be a problem, because wood chippers are in full swing every spring and autumn.

Not sure if your old shredder will make it through this season? Find a new one with my best shredder reviews.

You can create wood chip walkways between your garden beds to keep your boots muddy, or connect different landscape areas to give them an artistic look. It’s your decision! Get even more inspiration for your entrance area here.

Best of all, wood chips prevent weeds from growing—you just need to lay them thick enough. Even paving stones can fall victim to weeds! If you are looking for a safe and organic solution to your weed problem, I recommend trying ECO Garden PRO Weed & Grass Killer.

solution to soil erosion

Wood chips are a great temporary solution to soil erosion. Use them to create a barrier in areas where your lawn is being eroded by heavy rain and wind.

Build up low areas of soil by working wood chips into the soil. The wood chips will soak up water and hold the floor in place.

Of course, this is not a permanent solution to soil erosion. Wood chips decompose over time and lose their grip. If you come up with a better solution, collect the used wood chips and add them to No products found as a high-carbon “brown”.

Use wood chips to cover up mud

Do you have a lot of unsightly mud on your lawn? Instead of trying to sow Bermuda grass over the affected areas for the tenth time, you can try to cover it with a thick layer of wood shavings.

Problem solved!

Wood chips are free and multifunctional. They will slowly biodegrade so you will be mud free for several years.

Wood chips add another natural element to your garden and make it look dynamic. With wood chips of different types and colors, you can let your creativity run wild and create pretty shapes on your lawn. Decorate the area with herbs and potted plants and you have a pretty botanical centerpiece.

Click here for more ideas!

And here are some other clever ways to cover up mud in your yard.

Build raised beds

Wood chips are an excellent natural material for building “lasagne” raised beds. They can be used as a nutrient rich filler for your raised beds.

Lasagna beds are simply made from layered brown and green materials to allow for on-site composting. Wood chips act as the “brown” carbon-rich layer, while “nitrogen-rich green materials” include grass clippings, food scraps, coffee grounds, egg shells, and animal dung.

Use wood chips for smoking and grilling

If you love cooking outdoors, you’ll love this idea!

You can use different types of wood chips for grilling and smoking. Different types of wood chips impart different smoke flavors to your meat. Here are some classic options to experiment with:

If you’ve never tried smoking food before, you can get started with this beginner-friendly steel charcoal smoker. You will love it!

Use for animal litter

Is straw too expensive in your area? Do not worry! You can use wood chips as animal litter.

Wood chips are a cheap alternative to straw. They can be used as bedding for cattle, horses and other livestock.

Wood chips are hygienic and generate very little, if any, dust, keeping your livestock clean and healthy.

This type of natural bedding is best when the moisture content of the woodchips is kept at around 20 percent. Keeping an eye on moisture is easy with this wood moisture meter from Tavool. It will help you keep track of your game.

Before using wood chips as bedding for the first time, consult a veterinarian or other expert in the field.

Put wood chips in your chicken coop

Are you running out of material for your chicken coop? Have you tried it with wood chips?

Wood chips are an excellent upholstery material. But you can’t use just any type!

You should only use hardwood shavings for a chicken run. Bark, pine, and other softwoods are not safe for your flock as some of these types of materials can attract harmful mold or cause bumblebees.

By using safe hardwood, you can quickly solve the mud problem in your chicken coop. Lay out the material 2 inches thick. They will make the area look more appealing and give chickens something to peck and rummage through.

Rake up old wood chips and replace with new ones when the flooring needs a refresh. But don’t throw it away! Add it to your compost pile as it is high in chicken manure.

Use wood chips for fire

Did you know that you can use dry wood chips as fuel for your small camping stove?

Wood shavings may not work well in traditional wood stoves, but they sure can ignite a flame in any small stove that works with sticks and twigs. I especially like this one from Amazon.

You can also use wood chips for your gazebo with a fire pit inside. Just make sure you follow all the safety precautions that you can read about here.

It’s never been easier to roast marshmallows late into the night!

Use wood chips as playground padding

Do you have a small playground in your garden for your children? You can make her little corner safer by padding the bottom with wood shavings.

Wood chips can be used as padding material under jungle gyms and swings. Wood chips level the uneven ground and create a softer surface to fall on. We all know how painful it is to fall on concrete and pavement.

Most importantly, wood shavings keep your yard from becoming a muddy mess from all those busy little feet running around.

Use wood chips to grow mushrooms

Have you ever thought about growing mushrooms? You can! Use wood chips to grow mushrooms at home.

Wood chips are one of the natural substrates that fungi like to grow on.

Some species love to grow on tree trunks, others on sawdust, and some even on coffee grounds.

Of course, there are also those who prefer woodchips to everything else, like vinecap mushrooms, also known as garden giants.

How to build a mushroom garden

To get you started, you must first purchase a Wine Cap Mushroom Spawn, which you can purchase on Amazon.

Soak your wood chips in a barrel of water for a week. Hardwood shavings work best. Avoid using softwood, pine, and other softwoods unless they have aged well or make up only a small portion of the total mushroom patch.

After that, you can dig a 4-inch deep hole in the ground in a shady spot, preferably under the base of a tree.

Place cardboard in the bottom of the hole and place wood chips on top.

Break open the brood and sprinkle them over the wood shavings. Now cover it with another layer of scraps.

All you have to do is water your little mushroom garden occasionally during dry weather and wait for the mushrooms to start growing.

You will learn more about how to grow and harvest mushrooms from this video:

FAQ

Are wood chips good for the garden? Wood chips are good for the garden. A building material for raised beds, they prevent soil erosion and suppress weed growth. However, they are coarse and should not be used near seedlings and plants with shallow root systems.

Which wood chips are bad for the garden? Wood chips that are generally bad for the garden are black walnut, tree of heaven, and eucalyptus. These trees leach chemicals that can suppress seed germination or kill seedlings when it comes to some vegetables.

Is it okay to use fresh wood chips as a mulch? According to some farming experts, using fresh woodchips as mulch is not okay. A thick layer of fresh mulch placed directly on top of the soil can result in a loss of nitrogen from the soil. Allow the fresh wood chips to mature for at least 3 months before using them as mulch in your garden.

Do woodchips become dirt? Wood chips become dirt through the decomposition process. You can add wood chips to your nitrogen-rich compost pile and watch them slowly biodegrade into substrate over the course of four or more years.

Do wood chips kill grass? Wood chips will only kill weed if applied thickly. By laying 12 inches of wood chips on a mowed lawn you can kill it completely to create a garden, but light layers of mulch will not damage your grass.

Turn wood chips into your newfound gold

Now you know exactly what you can do with wood chips using my 12 ideas. Wood shavings are often someone’s junk, but you can make it your treasure with a little creativity.

Together we saw that wood chips have many uses. They can be used as a mulch, added to your No products found or make you the second best meat smoker in town with this Realcook smoker.

These are just some of the uses I found. Do you have any in mind? Let me know in the comments below and don’t hesitate to ask any questions!

Last update on 07/26/2022 at 09:59 am / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Fire protection

Fire becomes a big problem, especially in the Hinterlands. In this photo, the beautiful ranch house is surrounded by a well-watered courtyard with a plane tree in the center. Outside of this 75-100 foot ring are natives that have relatively high water content. Note the dark green Baccharis pilularis “Pigeon Point” (coyote brush). This is a great groundcover and has fairly good fire resistance as it is on most fire department safety lists. We surrounded this landscaping with a 10 foot wide road that completely circles the house. Not only does it look like a pretty country lane, but it serves to create a firebreak and allow access to trucks and equipment. In a fast-moving inferno, they could cover fires along the perimeter of the access road. The fact that virtually all weeds have been removed also makes this landscape a lot safer.

In addition, we created an 8ft wide apron of decomposed granite around the house, which in turn helps separate the ledges of the house from the rest of the landscape. Although we had reservations at first, the apron hasn’t proven unsightly. Low-growing materials are used near the structure. They serve to soften the edge of the apron. Irrigated plants in pots could be used to pull up the support poles under the canopies. Native wild grapes would be ideal for this.

case histories

We learned many lessons from the recent firestorms of 2003 and 2007. Much of what we observe defies conventional wisdom. People who cleared 200, 300, even 400 feet around their homes ended up with a burned pile of rubble, perhaps surrounded by lawns and palm trees that were still green. At the same time, being completely surrounded by native landscapes, many of our clients escaped unscathed despite some burns to their plants (most of which survived). We haven’t lost a single house to the forest fires yet. The difference is that the native landscapes we install are watered 2-3 times a month. It appears in most cases that the native plants, so drought tolerant, hold on to their scant moisture even in the face of flames, so they don’t generate enough heat to burn structures. Additionally, when clearing hundreds of feet of bare ground, the resulting laminar airflow can create a bowling alley effect for the embers — the only target is your house. These are hypotheses at this point and should be thoroughly tested.

In the two photos above, the buildings were being burned even though customers had cleared hundreds of feet in all directions onto bare ground. This supports the hypothesis of the laminar flow effect resulting from the removal of all surrounding vegetation structures. There is nothing to break up the flow of embers or moisten and cool.

Debris Dam After a fire there can be increased erosion, particularly from the resulting ash and debris. At the wildland interface, one of the worst reactions is to seed the affected areas, especially with grasses. This usually results in worse erosion in the second year than if nothing had been done. The non-native weeds and grasses possess poor long-term slope retention ability and are ready to burn the following summer. Instead, a better strategy is to build rubble dams across canyons, as demonstrated by T-posts and woven burnt branches. The water can pass, but the debris is held back. A bit of sandbags and ditches around the perimeter of the yard help direct the flow of water. And finally, if you must sow, do it with poppies and lupins! At least it turns out pretty and doesn’t mess up the ecology.

In these two photos, the black stain on the floor is all that remains of a rosemary stain. However, the buckwheat that volunteered right next to the rosemary still has green leaves! This shows how fireproof natives can become compared to traditional materials given the same amount of water – even buckwheat!

Here the native and drought tolerant plants had enough moisture that although they burned, not enough heat was generated to char the structure. Note the light green vine leaves over the roasted ficus in the pot on the right.

These next two photos illustrate the wonder of a property seemingly saved by the landscape! The flames didn’t enter this farm in the Lyon valley and stopped right at the edge (didn’t even burn the mulch, nor luckily its expensive solar array!). As in the next two photos, this shows the high level of fire resistance that is possible with a native landscape. However, the chaparral surrounding it has experienced severe drought conditions for more than 8 years. A neighbor across the street with another landscape designed by Cal Own saw similar results.

A fire inspector once ran tests on the shredded sequoia mulch we use. He asked us what kind of flame retardant we use! Of course none. Redwood is inherently fire resistant as long as the mulch is well consolidated. In these photos, the customer had planted a bouquet shortly before the fire. She decided to mark the new facilities with plastic flags. When the mulch smoldered, there wasn’t enough heat to melt the flags! You can see how low the burn marks are on the wall. Note the one flag that was melted by a flaming garden hose. There are unmelted flags everywhere.

Outermost layers of stems and roots of trees and shrubs

Mangifera indica) with bark of ripe mango) with lichen growth

Pinus thunbergii consists of innumerable shiny layers. The bark consists of innumerable shiny layers.

Bark is the outermost layer of the stems and roots of trees. Plants with bark include trees, woody vines, and shrubs. Cortex refers to all tissues outside of the vascular cambium and is a non-technical term.[1] It covers the wood and consists of the inner bark and the outer bark. The inner bark, which is living tissue in older tribes, comprises the innermost layer of the periderm. The outer bark of older stems includes the dead tissue on the surface of the stems, along with portions of the outermost periderm and any tissues on the outside of the periderm. The outer bark of trees, which lies outside the living periderm, is also known as the rhytidome.

Bark-derived products include bark clapboard siding and wall coverings, spices and other flavorings, tannin for tannin, resin, latex, medicines, poisons, various hallucinogenic chemicals, and cork. Bark was used to make cloth, canoes, and rope, and was used as a surface for paintings and map making.[2] A number of plants are also grown for their attractive or interesting bark coloration and surface textures, or their bark is used as landscape mulch.

Botanical description [ edit ]

Cork cell walls contain suberin, a waxy substance that protects the stem from water loss, insect invasion of the stem, and prevents infection from bacteria and fungal spores.[5] The cambium tissues, i. H. the cork cambium and vascular cambium, are the only parts of a woody stem where cell division occurs; Undifferentiated cells in the vascular cambium divide rapidly to produce secondary inward xylem and secondary outward phloem. Phloem is a nutrient-conducting tissue composed of sieve tubes or sieve cells interspersed with parenchyma and fibers. The bark is the primary tissue of stems and roots. In stems, the bark lies between the epidermal layer and the phloem, in roots the inner layer is not the phloem but the pericycle.

tree cross section diagram

From the outside to the inside of a mature log, the layers include the following:[6]

Bark of a pine tree in Tecpán, Guatemala.

In young trunks, which lack the so-called bark, the tissues are, from the outside in:

Epidermis, which can be replaced by periderm Cortex Primary and secondary phloem Vascular cambium Secondary and primary xylem.

As the stem ages and grows, changes occur that turn the surface of the stem into the bark. The epidermis is a layer of cells that covers the plant body, including the stems, leaves, flowers, and fruit, that protects the plant from the outside world. In ancient strains, the epidermal layer, bark, and primary phloem are separated from the internal tissues by thicker cork formations. As the cork layer thickens, these cells die because they are deprived of water and nutrients. This dead layer is the rough cork bark that forms around tree trunks and other stems.

Periderm[edit]

Damaged bark of a cherry tree

A secondary covering called the periderm often forms on small logs and many non-woody plants and consists of cork (phellem), the cork cambium (phellogen), and the phelloderm. The periderm forms from the phellogen, which serves as the lateral meristem. The periderm replaces the epidermis and, like the epidermis, acts as a protective covering. Mature phellem cells have suberin in their walls to protect the stem from desiccation and attack by pathogens. Older phellem cells are dead, as is the case with woody stems. The skin of the potato tuber (which is an underground stalk) forms the cork of the periderm.[7][8]

In woody plants, the epidermis of newly grown stems is replaced by the periderm later in the year. As the stems grow, a layer of cells called the cork cambium forms under the epidermis. These cells produce cork cells, which turn into cork. A limited number of layers of cells called phelloderma can form inside the cork cambium. As the stem grows, the cork cambium produces new layers of cork impermeable to gases and water, and the cells outside the periderm, namely the epidermis, cortex, and older secondary phloem, die.[9]

Inside the periderm are lenticels, which form during the formation of the first layer of the periderm. Because there are living cells within the cambium layers that need to exchange gases during metabolism, these lenticels allow gas exchange with the outside atmosphere due to their numerous cell interstices. As the bark develops, new lenticels form in the cracks in the layers of cork.

Rhytidomes[edit]

The rhytidome is the most well known part of the bark as it is the outer layer that covers the tree trunks. It consists mainly of dead cells and is produced by the formation of multiple layers of suberized peridermal, cortical, and phloem tissue.[10] The rhytidome is particularly well developed in older trunks and roots of trees. In shrubs, older bark flakes off quickly and thick rhytidome accumulates.[11] It is generally thickest and most prominent at the trunk or trunk (the area from the ground to the beginning of the main branching) of the tree.

Chemical composition [ edit ]

Cortical tissues represent between 10 and 20% by weight of lignified vascular plants and are composed of various biopolymers, tannins, lignin, suberin, suberan, and polysaccharides.[12] Up to 40% of cortical tissue is made up of lignin, which is an important component of a plant and provides structural support through cross-linking between various polysaccharides such as cellulose.[12]

Condensed tannin, which is found in fairly high concentrations in bark tissue, is thought to inhibit decomposition.[12] This could be due to the fact that the degradation of lignin in bark tissue is far less pronounced than in wood. It has been suggested that suberin in the cork layer (the phellogen) acts as a barrier against microbial degradation, thus protecting the internal structure of the plant.[12][13]

Analysis of the lignin in the bark wall during decay by the white-rot fungus Lentinula edodes (Shiitake fungus) by 13C NMR revealed that the lignin polymers contained more guaiacyl-lignin units than syringyl units compared to the interior of the plant.[12] Guajacyl units are less prone to degradation because they contain fewer aryl–aryl bonds, can form a condensed lignin structure, and have a lower redox potential compared to syringyl.[14] This could mean that the concentration and type of lignin units could provide additional resistance to fungal attack for bark-protected plants.[12]

Used[edit]

Cork, colloquially sometimes confused with bark, is the outermost layer of a woody stem descended from the cork cambium. It serves as protection against damage from parasites, herbivores and diseases, as well as against dehydration and fire. Cork can contain antiseptics like tannins that protect against fungal and bacterial attack that would cause rot.

Pine bark was used as emergency food in Finland during the famine, most recently during and after the civil war in 1918.

On some plants, the bark is significantly thicker, providing additional protection and giving the bark a characteristic prominent structure with deep ridges. In the cork oak (Quercus suber) the bark is thick enough to be harvested as a cork product without killing the tree;[15] in this species the bark can become very thick (e.g. more than 20 cm have been reported[ 16]). . Some barks can be removed in long leaves; The smooth bark of birch trees was used as a covering in the manufacture of canoes, as a drainage layer in roofs, for shoes, backpacks, and so on. The best-known example of the use of birch bark for canoes are the birch canoes of North America. [17]

The inner bark (phloem) of some trees is edible; In Scandinavia, bark bread is made from rye to which the roasted and ground innermost layer of bark of Scots pine or birch is added. The Sami people of the far north of Europe used large leaves of Pinus sylvestris bark, which were removed in spring, prepared and stored for use as a staple food, and the inner bark was eaten fresh, dried, or roasted.

Some stem barks have a significantly different phytochemical content than other parts. Some of these phytochemicals have pesticidal properties.[19]

Mechanical bark processing[ edit ]

Bark contains strong fibers known as bast, and there is a long tradition in northern Europe of using bark from young branches of the Small-leaved Lime (Tilia cordata) to make cordage and cordage, for example for the rigging of Viking-era longships be used .[20]

Commercial bark products include cork, cinnamon, quinine[21] (from cinchona bark)[22] and aspirin (from willow bark). The bark of some trees, particularly oak (Quercus robur), is a source of tannic acid used in tanning. Bark chips, which are a by-product of timber production, are commonly used in bark mulch in western North America. Bark is important to the horticultural industry because it is used in crushed form for plants that do not thrive in ordinary soil, such as epiphytes.[23]

Extraction of bark chips [ edit ]

Wood bark contains lignin; When pyrolyzed (exposed to high temperatures in the absence of oxygen), it yields a liquid bio-oil product rich in natural phenolic derivatives. The phenol derivatives are isolated and recovered for use as substitutes for fossil-based phenols in phenol-formaldehyde (PF) resins used in oriented strand board (OSB) and plywood.[24]

Bark Removal[ edit ]

Cut logs are ignited either just before cutting or before curing. [clarification needed] Such trunks, and even trunks and branches found in their natural state of decay in forests where the bark has fallen off, are said to be debarked.

A number of living organisms live in or on bark, including insects,[25] fungi, and other plants such as mosses, algae, and other vascular plants. Many of these organisms are pathogens or parasites, but some also have symbiotic relationships.

Bark Repair[edit]

The extent to which trees are able to repair gross physical damage to their bark varies widely. Some are capable of producing a callus growth that heals quickly over the wound but leaves a noticeable scar, while others, like oaks, do not produce extensive callus repair. Frost cracking and sunburn are examples of damage to tree bark that trees can repair to some extent, depending on the severity.

The patterns left in the bark of a Chinese evergreen elm after repeated visits by a yellow-bellied sapsucker (woodpecker) in early 2012.

The self-repair of the Chinese evergreen elm shows new bark growth, lenticels and other self-repair of the holes made by a yellow-bellied sapsucker (woodpecker) about two years earlier.

Alder bark (Alnus glutinosa) with characteristic lenticels and abnormal lenticels on calloused sites.

Sunburn damage to Sitka spruce

Gallery [ edit ]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Other references[edit]

Q: My wife and I just bought our first home, complete with a wood-burning fireplace. We’re excited, but don’t know exactly what kind of wood to stock. What do you recommend?

A: Congratulations on your new home and fireplace. The ambient light and cozy warmth make even the coldest nights a pleasure. On a practical level, a wood-burning fireplace can also help you reduce your heating bills a bit and will certainly come in handy in the event of a power outage.

Comparison of firewood by thermal energy

Different types of firewood produce different amounts of thermal energy. Measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs), the heat energy of firewood boils down to the amount of energy required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. Wood species that release higher BTUs per volume of wood produce a greater amount of heat.

Hard and soft firewood

Hardwood from deciduous trees produces more thermal energy than softwood from evergreen trees or conifers in most cases. Hardwoods like oak and beech are dense so they will burn longer and with less smoke when properly seasoned compared to softwoods. Hardwoods also produce beneficial hot coals that give off radiant heat for longer periods than softwoods, which burn quickly to ash.

Green wood vs seasoned wood

Another important factor when comparing the heating energy of firewood is the moisture content. Green wood, which holds more moisture than seasoned wood, produces less heat and a lot more smoke – not what most people want in the home! Seasoned, completely dry firewood is the best wood to burn in your fireplace or wood stove.

Hardwood, which is denser and typically more expensive than softwood, takes longer to season, typically one to two years, but the heat energy trade-off is well worth it.

RELATED: Solved! The right way to light a fireplace

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Wood burning safety tips

When you burn wood, but especially when you burn wood indoors, always think about safety. The following tips will help you with this.

Choose wood that offers maximum burn time while minimizing creosote build-up.

If left unchecked, your chimney walls will become coated with creosote – the highly flammable, black-brown tar residue from wood burning. This resin lining inside the chimney restricts airflow and creates a fire hazard. Creosote is also toxic and can negatively impact your health. So while you can clean a chimney with creosote remover to reduce the risk of chimney fires, it’s advisable to use wood, which produces less of the harmful substance.

In general, hardwoods like oak, ash, and beech are more difficult to light, but they last a long time.

Softwoods like fir, pine, and cedar make more smoke and therefore more creosote. However, these evergreens contain fragrant resins and oils that easily ignite even without a lighter and are perfect for lighting up. You can also try a commercial brand like Fatwood Fire-Starter ($49.95 for a 35-pound box at Plow & Hearth).

Always burn wood that is dry to the touch and seasoned (prepared for burning by allowing excess moisture to fully evaporate).

Freshly cut green wood produces more smoke, making it dangerous, especially indoors. And only burn logs that fit easily in your fireplace or wood stove. Logs larger than five inches in diameter should be split before use. If you’re cutting your own wood, remember that it can take anywhere from six months to two years to fully dry, depending on the species. Wood purchased from a supplier should be fully seasoned and ready for use.

Buy well in advance of the winter onset.

There is no fixed cost for firewood; The price fluctuates based on market factors including weather, supply and demand. A cord is the standard unit of measure for firewood and equals 128 cubic feet. Some vendors also sell smaller quantities called “face cords”. A cord can cost at least $225 for softwoods like fir. Mixed woods and hardwoods cost about $300-$600 per cord.

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While you can buy firewood online, it’s best to find a reputable local supplier.

This saves shipping costs and prevents environmental damage. For example, purchasing specific varieties from other states or countries may result in invasive species being imported into your area.

RELATED: Solved! Why mounting a TV above a fireplace is a mistake

The best types of wood for indoor fireplaces

Now that you have the basics down, here are the facts about the best wood for the fireplace.

1. Oak is one of the densest and most energetic woods, making it a gold standard for log fires.

The available heat content in firewood is measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). Depending on the subspecies, an oak cord can contain 24 to 39 million BTUs. Oak wood burns on a low flame and produces a steady, hot fire. Freshly cut oak can take a year or two to dry, so make sure you buy fully seasoned logs. Look for signs of dryness including radial cracks, dull color and odor, and loose bark.

Like all hardwoods, oak takes much longer to grow than softer woods like pine or birch. Many old-growth forests are endangered, so you’ll want to make sure your hardwoods are sustainably sourced. Look for Forest Stewardship Council certification, which sets forest management standards internationally and in the United States. Remember that oaks reproduce very slowly: only about 1 in 10,000 acorns will become an oak! The best practice is to vary your firewood sources, using hardwoods like oak in the winter and softer woods in the fall and spring.

2. Ash is one of the best overall choices, preferred for its ease of use.

It has an easy to split grain, low smoke content and a long lasting burn speed. Ash is harder to source than oak, so contact a local supplier and ask if they include ash in their mixed wood cords – and how much it costs. Complement ash with other hardwoods like ironwood, elm, hickory, oak, maple, walnut and beech.

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Ash’s low moisture content means it doesn’t require a long drying time, but settled ash is still the safest and most durable choice for an indoor fire. Seasoned logs smoke less and form less creosote. When buying tree trunks, look for grey, dusty bark and lighter, whitish wood.

3. Douglas Fir is one of the most popular softwoods for home fires and is abundant throughout North America.

Because of their rapid growth rate, Douglas firs are a preferred choice for reforestation efforts – making it easier to find sustainably sourced firewood. Douglas fir is also an energy-rich softwood. A pine cord contains about 26 BTU. Fir splits easily and produces moderate, even heat. It’s an excellent choice all year round, and nothing beats its mild, evergreen scent during the holidays. Check with a local supplier for availability and price.

4. Fruit woods such as apple, cherry and pear produce hot, fragrant fires.

These hardwoods have low flames and generate high temperatures. Their energy content ranges from 20 to 26 million BTUs per cable. Fruitwoods are great for the home fireplace, as well as outdoor grills and grills (cooks enjoy the tangy, smoky apple and cherry flavor they impart to meats and vegetables). Applewood fires in the home are particularly notable for their sweet, inviting scent.

Apple, cherry and pear are considered specialty woods and are mainly used for special occasions such as a dinner party or holiday. Commercial orchards are the primary source of fruitwoods, as fruit trees rarely grow in abundance in the wild, so their main downside is price: J.C.’s Smoking Wood Sticks, for example, are available on Amazon for $39.99 for an 11-pound box. Consider contacting a local orchard or firewood supplier, especially if you plan to use fruitwood for heating rather than just grilling.

5. For milder fall and spring weather, choose a lower heat and faster-burning softwood like birch.

However, birch is a northern species and is used by many people for warmth even in winter. As a softwood, birch has a high energy content — about 20 million BTUs per string, comparable to hardwoods like walnut and cherry. Birch fires contain beautiful blue flames, and the logs themselves are decorative, with silvery bark that can complement your home decor.

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Depending on whether you use black, yellow or white birch, the burn time and heat level will vary. The most important consideration is the dryness of the trunks. Firewood should not contain more than 15 to 20 percent moisture. With softwoods such as birch, this means a maturing process of at least three to six months.

RELATED: How to Clean a Chimney

Follow your state’s laws and guidelines for purchasing firewood.

This firewood map tells you exactly what to look for in your locale, including pest information. You can also check the USDA’s plant database to make sure you’re not accidentally buying an endangered species. Oleander and poisoned species of oak, ivy and sumac should never be burned as they release toxic substances.

Never burn these types of firewood inside

Moldy or rotten wood

green wood

driftwood

Poisonous wood (e.g. poison oak, poison oak)

Indoor fireplace maintenance tips

Chimney maintenance checklist to complete every fall

How to clean a chimney

How to prevent chimney fires

Q:

Between the job sites and the workshop we produce an abundance of plywood waste which we either incinerate on site or dump in a dumpster. Does burning plywood produce harmful emissions to the air? Is it better deposited?

Jim Ludwig, Tunbridge, VT

A:

Alex Wilson, editor of Environmental Building News in Brattleboro, Vt., replies: While many states either ban open burning of construction waste or at least ban burning it in more populated areas, few states differentiate between wood and processed wood products such as plywood, OSB or chipboard. Vermont is the only state I know that does that. It is illegal in Vermont to burn any type of wood except natural, untreated, unpainted wood; Plywood and related products cannot be legally burned.

According to Phillip Etter of the Vermont Agency of Natural Resources, Vermont’s ban on burning manufactured wood products is based on concerns that burning these products at low temperatures could release large amounts of formaldehyde and potentially more dangerous compounds. He says that ammonium chloride, used as a catalyst in some manufactured wood product resins, can lead to emissions of hydrochloric acid or dioxins under certain conditions.

The only studies I could find that compared the combustion emissions of natural wood to wood showed very little difference between the two. A study by researchers at the University of Wisconsin and the US Department of Agriculture’s Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, Wisconsin examined total hydrocarbon, formaldehyde, total aldehyde and carbon monoxide emissions from the combustion of natural aspen and aspen flake boards. The study simulated industrial boiler firing conditions with high combustion temperatures (1,500 to 2,400°F) and increased air intakes. In the lower temperature and excess air range, the hydrocarbon, formaldehyde and carbon monoxide emissions of the chipboard were slightly higher than those of natural wood. Low combustion temperatures and low-oxygen conditions characteristic of open combustion or wood-burning stoves have not been studied, but it is reasonable to conclude that under such conditions there is more pollution from burning artificial wood than from natural wood, simply because the burning is at higher temperatures is more complete.

Whether burning processed wood on-site is significantly worse than burning natural wood on-site is still unknown. If you are considering burning scrap plywood in a catalytic combustion wood stove, be aware that the resins in the plywood can damage the catalytic converter.

While the merits of on-site incineration versus landfill can be widely debated, the best option is to do neither. Instead, try to design buildings to optimize the use of materials. that is, design on 4 feet. modules. You should also try to separate plywood and other wood scraps on site to make smaller pieces easier to locate and try to use scrap plywood instead of 2xs for nailers, spacers in headers and the like.

When it comes to choosing firewood for your wood-burning stove or fireplace, you have many options. There are two main factors to consider when choosing the best logs for a wood stove: wood species and wood moisture content. In this post, we explain which types of wood are the best logs for a wood stove or fireplace. To learn more about the moisture content of firewood, read our how-to article Wood Stove 101: Using Seasoned Firewood.

Why does it matter what type of wood I burn?

Choosing firewood is more complicated than you think. What you burn in your wood stove is critical to the performance and longevity of your wood stove. Whether you harvest your own firewood or use a delivery service, you need to be knowledgeable about wood species when choosing firewood. The type of wood affects the performance of your stove in several areas.

1. Efficiency: The efficiency of your stove can largely depend on the type of wood you are burning. Softwoods and resinous (oily) woods can burn inefficiently. Because of this, pine, eucalyptus, birch, aspen, and a few other species are not the best logs for a wood stove.

2. Appearance: Choosing firewood from a typically resinous species can produce thick black smoke that will cloud your stove’s front glass. Once cloudy, cleaning the glass can be more difficult.

Stop messing with your old, hard-to-use wood. Shop MF Fire today!

3. Reliability: Choosing soft and resinous firewood also has a negative effect on the reliability of your stove. Softwoods and resinous firewoods produce chemicals that are severely corrosive to a wood stove’s internal components. In particular, the Catalyst catalytic combustor and combustion fan can be adversely affected over time. Because of this, hardwoods wear out wood stoves much less and are the best logs for a wood stove.

4. Safety: Burning resinous woods also poses a potential safety hazard in your home. Resinous woods produce significant amounts of creosote, which accumulates in the chimney and is the leading cause of wood-burning chimney fires.

Use the best types of firewood

So what are the best logs for a wood stove? Any non-resinous hardwood can give you a good burn, but our three favorites are:

1. Oak: Known for its long, slow burning, oak is probably the best firewood. Oak is a dense hardwood available in most regions of North America. While oak can take a little longer to season properly than other firewoods, you can’t beat the fire of well-seasoned oak in your wood stove. This is the mainstream firewood favorite for wood stoves and probably one of the best all around logs for a wood stove.

2. Maple: Maple firewood burns very similar to ash. When properly seasoned, it will produce long and even burns in your wood stove. Maple is found throughout the continental United States, making it a preferred fuelwood choice for wood stoves.

Check out our beautiful, modern and easy to use wood stoves!

3. Ash: Burns evenly and splits easily – what more could you ask for? Ash provides some of the best wood to burn in a wood stove. It is found primarily in eastern and central North America, but is also available in other wood-burning regions, including the west coast of the United States. The emerald ash borer, an invasive species native to Northeast Asia, has killed many ash trees in the United States. These affected trees are perfect for responsible firewood harvesting.

While oak, ash, and maple are our top 3, there are many other types of firewood that are acceptable for wood stoves:

hawthorn

beech

cherry

mulberry

Apple

The worst types of firewood to use

Not every wood is the same. Just as there are types of firewood that we recommend, there are also some that we do not recommend using. Most of these are not recommended as they are either softwoods, very resinous, or both! Softwoods burn quickly, efficiently and produce harmful chemicals. Resinous woods produce thick oils that blacken glass and soil the inside of your stove. We do not recommend using the following types of firewood:

Jaw

poplar

cedar

eucalyptus

alder

With this guide, choosing the best wood to burn in your wood-burning stove is easy! Do you have any questions or comments about your experiences with these or other types of firewood? Need more help choosing firewood? Leave your comments below!

Ryan Fisher is MF Fire’s Chief Operating Officer