Hand Made Bird Tables? The 135 Top Answers

Taking the time to tend to the wildlife that finds its way into your yard is one of the best ways to keep your yard beautiful and full of life.

One way to do this is to create spaces for wildlife. Examples of other pet-friendly projects we have at DIY Doctor include bird feeders, ponds, compost piles, bug hotels, and flower beds.

These are just some of the ways you can help local wildlife thrive in your garden while having the added bonus of being aesthetically pleasing and/or beneficial to you and your garden.

For this project we will consider bird tables; how to build one, what type of birdhouse is best for your garden and different designs for your birdhouse.

There are many different styles to choose from, from the very simple to the very ornate, as well as different materials to choose from.

A simple bird table versus an elaborate bird table – image courtesy of Pinterest

bird table plans

Before you start thinking about the design of the birdhouse, you should first consider the following:

Size – How big or small you should make your bird table. Too small and you run the risk of fighting between the visiting birds, but too large can overwhelm your garden and invite predators, so you may prefer bird tables for small birds over large ones

– How big or small you should make your bird table. Too small and you run the risk of fighting between the visiting birds, but too large can overwhelm your garden and invite predators in, so you may prefer bird feeders for small birds rather than large ones. The most commonly used material is wood, as it is versatile, easy to work with and aesthetically pleasing. However, other materials such as metal, plastics and polycarbonate have become very popular in the last decade

– What to make your bird table out of. The most commonly used material is wood, as it is versatile, easy to work with and aesthetically pleasing. But other materials such as metal, plastics and polycarbonate have also become very popular over the last decade for preventing cats from coming to the table. The straighter and smoother the post, the more difficult it will be for these animals to climb onto the table. Alternatively you can hang the table by a chain from a branch or similar but be aware that squirrels may be able to climb down the chain wherever you decide to hang it

– The table stand not only serves to elevate the table off the floor, but also keeps squirrels and cats from getting to the table. The straighter and smoother the post, the more difficult it will be for these animals to climb onto the table. Alternatively, you could hang the table by a chain from a branch or similar, but be aware that wherever you have hung it on Clean Finish, squirrels may be able to climb down the chain – remember to make sure there aren’t any There are sharp edges that birds could injure themselves on, and that the material you end up using – be it wood or metal or something else – doesn’t contain splinters or rough parts that could snag birds

– Just remember to make sure there are no sharp edges that birds could hurt themselves on, and that the material you end up using – be it wood or metal or something else – doesn’t have any splinters or rough parts that get caught in the ground Catch Bird Layout – The default layout is a flat platform with edges and some sort of roof. This can vary and as mentioned above there are many designs to choose from. A simple layout can be just as effective, if not more so, than an extravagant one

After the above points have been considered and thought through, you can start thinking about the design and construction of your bird house.

Bird Table Ideas – Choose a design for your bird table

When it comes to what type of bird table to choose, there are a few key points to consider; the number of birds you want to attract, what type of birds you often find in your yard or in your area, what type of yard you have and what aesthetic you are aiming for and where you will be setting the table.

This is important so that the table not only suits you and your garden, but also the birds it caters to.

As mentioned above, the basic layout is a platform with a roof, and most designs are basically an amalgamation of these and other details. Some have walls or pillars to support the roof, others have no roof at all. It really depends on your own preferences.

Different bird feeder designs for small birds and hanging bird feeder integration – image courtesy of Pinterest

Some designs include additional feeders hanging below the platform to accommodate a wider range of species, and some even have additional platforms lower down for birds that prefer to feed closer to the ground.

Some designs include nesting boxes and while these can be cute we think it’s unwise to encourage birds to feed in someone else’s nesting area – it might get a little out of hand.

Bird baths are also a common addition to a bird table, which again can look attractive but will ultimately likely cause more chaos and possibly cross-contamination between the birds’ bathing water and the food source.

For best results in attracting garden birds and to ensure their feed does not become contaminated. You should choose or design a bird feeder that keeps food as dry as possible and make sure it’s easy to clean.

When shopping for a bird table there are many to choose from, from the simple to the elaborate.

You can buy a bird table at most hardware stores, as well as sites like Amazon and eBay, and if you have the money, there are retailers who sell beautiful custom made bird tables that are masterful and adorable in their own right.

Intricate and Intricate Bird Table Designs – Image courtesy of Pinterest

However, here at DIY Doctor, we encourage you to build your own bird table. It may seem daunting, but with a little patience and hard work, you can have your own beautiful handcrafted bird table to show off to all your friends and family.

Build a bird table

Below we show you two different simple designs for a bird table that even the most inexperienced DIYer could put together, along with a list of materials and tools to use.

For these designs, we will focus on wooden birdhouses as they are the easiest material to start with.

The most common woods used for bird feeders (and houses or crates) are cedar, pine, and walnut as they are easier to work with and do quite well in outdoor conditions.

Pine is cheaper than most other woods, which is why it’s so popular.

Other common woods include oak, mahogany, and cherry for their sturdiness and vibrant color, but these can be significantly more expensive.

Plywood is also often used, specifically for the platform base and roof as it is a cheaper alternative, but we would recommend using marine grade plywood to ensure some weather resistance.

Ultimately, the type of wood you use really depends on how much you want to spend on the bird table and what you want the finished look to be.

As a general rule, the wood used should be pressure treated to resist rot and decay and to prolong the life of the wood.

This treatment also helps protect the wood from termites and fungi and provides some protection from the elements.

The finished bird table can be left untreated as it would be safer for the birds that come to feed there. However, if you wish to seal the wood, we recommend using a natural, non-toxic wood preservative such as tung oil, which will help protect the wood and would be safe for wildlife.

Tung Oil made from Natural Oils and Safe for Wildlife – Sold here at the DIY Doctor Store

After you’ve chosen your wood and decided whether or not you want to treat it, the next step before actually building the table is deciding whether to stand it on a post or hang it. Both have pros and cons, so the decision is up to you.

A stand requires more wood and therefore more money, but a chain can rust or let squirrels get to the table.

A hanging table also needs a place to hang, such as. a branch or wall mount, and must contend with wind that could rotate or otherwise unbalance the table.

On the other hand, a post needs to be sturdy and stable so that it won’t fall over, and it needs to be difficult for pets and squirrels to climb on.

Hanging and Freestanding Bird Table – Image courtesy of Pinterest

Once all of the above decisions have been made, you are almost ready to start building.

The next step before assembly is to choose a design and cut your wood.

If you have a circular saw, jigsaw or table saw in your possession, you can easily do this at home.

When using such devices, remember safety precautions and use safety goggles and gloves. As always, remember the old crafting tip of the builders. measure twice, cut once.

Always check your measurements before cutting as this will save you a lot of trouble later.

We have projects on using a circular saw and also using a table saw as well as using a regular handsaw and also using a miter saw.

Don’t forget to check out our woodworking and carpentry prep project to make sure you’ve got all the bases covered.

You can also cut the wood with hand tools, but if for some reason you can’t cut your wood at home, most home improvement sheds and retailers offer a free, or sometimes for a small fee, wood cutting service.

Check beforehand which ones offer this service and remember to have all your measurements ready.

Building a bird table: Method 1

This first bird table design is simple and includes a platform, a roof, four pillars and two dowel rails for the birds to perch on. It is a substantial size, allowing for many birds to feed at once, or for shyer species to have space to feed.

Follow the steps below to build your own bird table just like this one

Measure and cut your wood

Cut your wood to size using the measurements below. This design uses a 25mm (1 inch) thick wood for a stable and sturdy table.

Remember that one roof panel overlaps the first, so make one panel 25mm longer on the short length to allow for this.

Cutting plan for our bird table design

Base: 350mm x 500mm

350mm x 500mm Roof 1: 250mm x 500mm

250mm x 500mm Roof 2: 275mm x 500mm (including 25mm overlap)

275mm x 500mm (including 25mm overlap) Edge (x2): 40mm x 500mm

40mm x 500mm Columns (x4): 25mm x 25mm x 200mm

25mm x 25mm x 200mm Dowels (x2): 12mm x 210mm

Use a miter saw or miter gauge to cut the correct angle for the pillars. This will ensure that the roof is flush against the pillars.

The slope of the miter cut points outwards from the table and there is a dowel between each pair to form a rail.

Measure 40mm up from the base of the column and drill a 13mm diameter hole in the column.

Don’t drill all the way through the post, halfway through should be enough.

Sand down any rough edges and splinters that may be left on the wood for a smooth finish.

Assemble the base

Lay the base on a flat surface and place the two edge panels on either side of the platform.

The edge plates should form a slight lip above the surface of the platform.

This is to prevent seed and feed from spilling over the edge and provide the birds with a perch while feeding.

To avoid splitting the wood, pre-drill for the screws first – learn how to pre-drill and countersink screws here.

Apply wood glue to each edge board and use four evenly spaced wood screws on each side to attach the edge boards to the base. Set aside and let dry.

Assemble the roof

Lay the smaller of the two roof panels on a flat surface and lay the other flush against it at right angles. Use a ruler to get the right angle.

Apply wood glue to the joint and use four more wood screws to hold it together. Allow the glue to dry completely before moving it.

For a clean finish, countersink the screws so they are flush with the wood (see link above for countersinking screws).

Attaching the columns and dowels to the base

Measure 125mm from the edge of the platform on the long side (i.e. the side without side panels).

Mark where the outside of your pillars will sit and drill a hole from under your platform to the top.

Apply wood glue to the base of the column and place on the platform with the miter facing outwards.

Drill a wood screw from below to attach the column to the base.

Before attaching the adjacent column, apply some wood glue to the hole previously drilled and insert the dowel.

Do the same for the other column and insert the dowel before screwing the second column. Do the same for the last two columns.

Fastening of the roof

When the wood glue has dried and all the pillars are in place, lay the roof on the pillars and position it so that the gable end is parallel to the edges of the platform.

The sides of the roof should stick out a little bit over the edge. Apply wood glue to the top of the pillars and then screw the roof firmly onto the pillars.

Assembling our bird house after cutting all the components

Build your bird table: Method 2

This second design is a bit more complex but still easy to do.

This bird table design includes a platform, a roof that serves as a lid and a clear acrylic feeder.

This way you can fill the trough with the birdseed of your choice and the trough will dispense it evenly on the table.

It’s a very clever design, not only for its simplicity when you disassemble it, but also for the way it allows for a constant flow of food without being overly messy.

Slightly more complex bird table design with feeding trough

Measure and cut your wood

As with the first draft, measure your wood and cut to size.

As in the plans above, this design uses 25mm thick wood which allows the table to support the weight of the acrylic and bird seed which can become quite heavy once the trough is full.

Again, remember to consider the thickness of the timber (25mm) in the overlap that occurs with the roof panels, as in the bird table plan above.

Cutting plan for bird table with feeding trough

Base: 254mm x 254mm

254mm x 254mm Roof 1: 140mm x 280mm

140mm x 280mm Roof 2: 165mm x 280mm (including 25mm overlap)

165mm x 280mm (including 25mm overlap) Edge (S) (x2): 40mm x 254mm

40mm x 254mm Edge (L) (x2): 40mm x 280mm

40mm x 280mm Walls (x2): 140mm x 210mm

140mm x 210mm Acrylic (x2): 3mm x 229mm x 120mm

The walls of the table are then cut into an elongated pentagon to form the traditional wide-to-narrow shape.

After you cut your wood, sand the edges to remove any rough pieces or splinters that may have been left on the wood.

Design the walls

The walls consist of two forms; an inverted trapezoid and a right isosceles triangle, one forming the shape of the trough, the other the roof.

There are a few different ways to calculate how this shape should be drawn, but the easiest way we’ve found is this:

Locate and mark the half and quarter points on your wood for your walls (see diagrams below). Using a protractor, mark a 90° angle from your halfway point on the top of the board (lines a and b) to the adjacent edges of the board. Use a straight edge to draw the lines. This creates the right triangle that supports the roof. Using a straight edge, draw a line from the quarter point at the bottom of the board (lines c and d in the image below) to where the first two lines (a and b) meet the edge of the board. This will give you the inverted trapezoid shape and the whole shape should look like an elongated pentagon. Cut off the excess wood. To ensure the boards are identical, line them up neatly and secure with a clamp or double sided tape and use a circular saw, handsaw or jigsaw to cut both at the same time. To create the slot for the acrylic you can use either a router or a table saw. If using a table saw, lower the saw blade to 10mm (so it doesn’t cut all the way through) and set the fence 10mm from the edge of the saw blade. Most blades are thinner than the acrylic, so you may need to pass the board over the saw side by side twice to create a dado cut, and then carefully sand the edges of the cut. If using a router, use the guard and a straight edge to ensure the dado is straight

Cutting plan for cutting side panels for bird feeders

Assemble the base

Lay the base on a flat surface and place the edge panels against the baseboard.

As with the previous design, these edge panels create a slight lip on the platform to prevent bird seed from falling over the edge and to provide a perch for the birds.

There are four panels of two different lengths and they need to be placed on opposite ends so that the shorter lengths are between the longer lengths.

Drill holes for the screws, apply wood glue to the edges of the base, attach the shorter panels first, and secure the panels to the panel with three or four wood screws.

Then adjust the longer edges. You can use a corner brace to hold the corners together or use another wood screw to screw in from the longer length into the shorter ones. Set aside and let dry.

Assemble the roof

As with the previous design, the two roof sections overlap to form the roof, but instead of screwing the two boards together and screwing into the supports, this roof is hinged to form a lid, allowing you to lift one side and feed into the trough pour.

Since the roof panels overlap at the joint, you will need a hinge that is longer on one side to screw into both panels. Two 4″ (102mm) T-Hinges should be sufficient and able to support the weight of the wood.

Lay the boards side-by-side and place the T-hinges on top of them, evenly spaced.

The long side of the T-Hinge should be on the board that will form the lid, i.e. the board that will be lifted, which is the wider of the two, overlapping its counterpart.

Screw the hinges to the boards and test if they open easily. Adjust if necessary.

Attaching the walls to the base

The trough walls are placed on the inside of the base and attached to the shorter of the two edges.

Measure and mark the center of the base and the center of the walls and align the two making sure the dado slots are facing inwards.

Glue and screw the walls in place and fasten through the platform from below and through the outside edges to hold the walls securely in place.

Be careful to place the screws so they don’t accidentally hit each other. Two from the bottom and three from the side should work just fine. Do this for both walls.

To create the gap between the base and the acrylic to allow the food to flow onto the table, cut a piece of scrap wood the same length as the base of the walls (about 70mm) and about 20mm wide and stick it flush to the base and walls.

This gives the acrylic something to sit on so it doesn’t slide all the way down. Sand down if necessary.

Now you can slide the acrylic panels into place. If they’re a little tight, sand down the edges until they slide down smoothly.

Make sure the top of the acrylic sheet is flush with the top of the walls or just slightly under, otherwise the roof will not be flush with the walls.

There is no need to add glue to hold the acrylic in place as you may eventually want to take it out to clean or replace it.

Fastening of the roof

Once the platform, walls, and acrylic panels are all in place, place the roof on top of the walls and adjust so that there is an even overhang on either side.

Use two screws on either side to attach the roof to the walls. Do not use glue on this part as you may want to remove the roof to clean or replace the acrylic.

Assemble bird table with feeding trough

These two bird table plans will not only leave you feeling satisfied and fulfilled, but will provide you with countless hours of bird watching from the comfort of your own home.

It’s a great way to start woodworking and it’s very rewarding.

There are many great designs from rustic to fancy and many other helpful tutorials and videos.

Why not try building your own beehive using the methods detailed in our project, or even try building your own bat box if you enjoyed this project.

Use wood that will not split or disintegrate when wet – sustainably sourced, exterior grade plywood 0.5cm to 1cm thick is ideal.

Any cheap piece of solid wood makes an excellent bird table.

There is no maximum size, but don’t make the table too small or the birds will fight and the shyer species will be kept away: 30cm x 50cm is about right.

A rim of about 1 cm around the edge prevents food from being bumped or blown away. Leave gaps at the corners to allow rain to drain and make cleaning easier.

Before assembly, sand it smooth to remove crevices that may harbor dirt and disease. It is best to leave the table untreated. If it needs treatment to extend its life, use a water-based preservative and ensure it is dry before use.

A few nails or hooks in the edges of the table are useful for hanging nut or seed food or fat balls.

A roof provides some protection (from rain, snow, and hunting sparrowhawks) to feeding birds. Some birds even sleep on a table with a roof at night. It also provides a dry place for seed bins and nut bins. However, a roof can discourage the shyer and larger species from visiting, and in most cases an open table really does do just as well.

Download a plan to build your bird table. (JPG, 74KB)

If possible, set up several different feeders to reduce the number of birds in one location, and move your feeders around regularly to prevent a build-up of bird seed and droppings that might contaminate the ground below. You can find more information on the hygienic maintenance of feeding tables here.

Aesthetics aside, here are some things to consider when choosing a bird table:

Size – Too small a table will result in more fighting than feeding. An area of ​​about 3-4 square meters is ideal.

– Too small a table will result in more fighting than feeding. An area of ​​about 3-4 square meters is ideal. Material – Most bird feeders sold in stores are made out of wood, but in recent years an increasing range of metal, plastic and polycarbonate tables and bird feeders are available. While these look less natural, they are easier to keep clean and are worth considering.

– Most commercially available bird feeders are made from wood, but in recent years an increasing range of metal, plastic and polycarbonate tables and bird feeders are available. While these look less natural, they are easier to keep clean and are worth considering. The Post – The smoother and straighter the post, the harder it is for cats and squirrels to climb – metal posts are ideal. Avoid knobbly, rustic ones that offer handy paw holds.

– The smoother and straighter the post, the harder it is for cats and squirrels to climb – metal posts are ideal. Avoid knobbly, rustic ones that offer handy paw holds. Safety – Check that there are no sharp edges that could endanger birds’ feet and that there are no moving or ‘shearing’ joints where a bird could become trapped.

– Check that there are no sharp edges that could endanger birds’ feet and that there are no moving or “shearing” joints that could trap a bird. Design – A base platform with edges and drainage channels with or without a roof is by far the best. Avoid bird feeders with a nest box on the roof – it is not advisable to encourage birds to feed in someone else’s nesting area. ‘Rustic’ thatched bird tables quickly become bare in spring when the birds take the straw to build their nests. Some bird tables include a bird bath in the table top. These generally result in the food getting wet and the water turning into soup and are not recommended.

– A base platform with edges and drainage channels with or without a roof is by far the best. Avoid bird feeders with a nest box on the roof – it is not advisable to encourage birds to feed in someone else’s nesting area. ‘Rustic’ thatched bird tables quickly become bare in spring when the birds take the straw to build their nests. Some bird tables include a bird bath in the table top. These generally result in the food getting wet and the water turning into soup and are not recommended. The Birds You Want to Attract – If you want to make sure smaller birds get a peek into your bird table and exclude larger birds like wood pigeons and collared pigeons, you can consider an adjustable bird table. The RSPB’s ‘Adjus-Table Bird Table’ allows you to slide the feeding platform up and down for three different roof heights.

If possible, set up several different feeders to reduce the number of birds in one location, and move your feeders around regularly to prevent a build-up of bird seed and droppings that might contaminate the ground below. You can find more information on the hygienic maintenance of feeding tables here.

The best way to secure a bird table to the ground is with anchor pegs. Anchor pegs can be easily tucked into the lawn or perimeter, keeping the bird table secure and allowing you to easily move it around if needed. It is difficult to attach a freestanding bird feeder to a patio or pavement without damaging the surface, so it may be better to choose a different bird feeding option for this type of garden.

As of this writing we have weather warnings for storms throughout next week. With climate change, high winds and harsh weather are becoming a commonplace for us here in the UK.

High winds wreak havoc in the garden and there’s nothing worse than looking out the window and seeing your bird table on the ground. For starters, having to keep picking it up is a fagot. And finally, if it keeps falling over and over again, it will be damaged.

So this week we’re taking a quick look at the best ways to secure your bird table to the ground to save time and prevent damage.

How to secure a bird table to the ground

Before we get into fixing your table to the floor, there are a few other things to consider.

Choosing the right bird table.

Buying a new bird table will save you time and hassle in the long run by choosing one that is less likely to tip over and that is easier to secure to the ground.

Choose a stable, reasonably heavy table, light, flimsy models will be blown over at the first gust of wind.

If you want it to stay upright, the base of your birdhouse should be wider than the top. It should also be difficult. Some models feature twist-out feet for added stability.

flat feet. Check for flat feet on a new feeding table. These offer additional stability and make it easier to attach the table to the floor.

Not too big. A tall bird table can be an impressive garden feature. But the higher the table, the more likely it is to tip over. If you have a lot of shelter in your yard, then you might be okay with a very tall bird table. If your garden is more exposed, stick to something smaller. Most birds are perfectly happy feeding on a table 4 or 5 feet high.

Choose the right position

Before you decide where to place your bird table, take a moment to think about how the wind blows through your garden. Most gardens have windy spots and more sheltered areas.

If you can choose a place that is sheltered from the wind for your bird table, it will be less likely to fall over. The birds also prefer to feed in more sheltered areas.

It seems obvious to say, but we’re going to do it because we’ve seen it done: don’t put your bird table on a slope!

Prepare the site

After you have decided where you want to place your new bird table, prepare the site.

Make sure the site is level. Even minimal bumps can make your bird table unstable, especially if it’s a tall one. Check your site with a spirit level and level it if it’s uneven.

Cut or remove the grass. Most people choose to place their bird table on the lawn. If you go this route, trim the grass very tightly before setting up the table. This helps with stability. Some people even remove the sod just below the table and replace it with a piece of sand or gravel. This means you don’t have to move the table every time you cut the grass.

Secure your bird table

If you set up your bird table on the lawn or in a flower bed, it is best to secure it to the ground with pegs.

These are cheap and easy to use. Simply insert the anchor pegs into the ground over the legs of your table.

They’re also easy to pull up when you need to move your table to cut grass, pull weeds, or any other reason.

These pegs get the job done with minimal cost or hassle and really are a no-brainer.

tackle hard surfaces

Anchoring pegs are a treat for securing your bird table in a lawn or border. But what if you have a courtyard or covered garden?

It will be even more important to secure the table as it will take more damage if it falls. But securing is much more difficult.

Your only option is really to bolt the table to the floor. This is a bit of a DIY job and it means the position of your bird table is permanently fixed, you have no way of changing its position once it is bolted down.

Driving bolts through paving slabs or decking boards will also damage the surface. That’s something you might not want, and if you’re renting, your landlord certainly won’t want it.

So if you have a decked or paved garden, the traditional freestanding wooden bird table might not be your best option. Luckily, there are many other attractive and practical bird feeding options that might work well.

A wall or fence mounted bird table is safe in even the strongest of winds when properly installed.

A hanging bird table can be a good option if you have a sturdy tree. Again, once tied properly in place, it won’t fall in the wind, although it sure will rock around a fair bit!

A pole mounted feeder can be placed in the center of a large planter or container and is an attractive freestanding feature without damaging your paving or patio.

Conclusion: It is best to secure your bird table with pegs on the ground

So in this article, we’ve seen that it’s easy to fix an overturned bird feeder problem by choosing the right bird feeder, choosing the right position, preparing the bottom, and getting a set of anchor pegs.

We’ve also seen that lawn is probably the best surface for a free-standing bird table. If you have a covered or paved garden, it will be difficult to attach your table to the pumpkin without damaging your hard landscape. So it’s probably better to choose a different feeding option for your garden.

We hope you found this article interesting and useful. If you have a suggestion or question, we’d love to hear from you. Please leave us a comment below.

And for advice and information, check out our garden bird blog here.

Providing homes for birds, especially cave-nesting species, is a hobby that most people enjoy. Putting up houses for the tree swallows, tits, snow buntings, screech owls and little owls that regularly visit your home is a great pastime and a means of wildlife conservation.

However, if you decide to build a birdhouse, you should do it right. Birds rarely settle in improperly built or poorly maintained homes. Worse, a poorly built bird house is a death trap for nesting birds.

The following guide is designed to help you choose the best wood for birdhouses, and then build and properly care for the right birdhouse.

Why build birdhouses?

Let’s start by understanding the benefits of building birdhouses around and outside of your home. What’s the benefit?

protection of species

Natural cavities in trees will always be important to wildlife, especially birds. Unfortunately, such houses are in short supply in some places.

For example, places with frequent wildfires and intense logging activities often leave no homes for birds. Nest boxes (birdhouses) provide shelter for homeless birds in such situations.

pest and weed control

Birds feed on garden pests like aphids, mosquitoes, spiders and other insects that can harm your garden.

In addition, birds such as finches, towhees, and sparrows feed on weeds and weed seeds, thereby slowing the spread of weeds. Therefore, inviting birds to your farm through birdhouses can increase your agricultural production.

It’s good for your mental well-being

There aren’t many better natural therapies than seeing birds flying around your property, interacting with them, and listening to them chirp throughout the day.

It’s a great way to de-stress as you go about the day. It also encourages you to spend time outdoors, which is important for your health and mental well-being.

Qualities of a good bird house

However, not all birdhouses are good. If you are serious about attracting birds to your nest boxes, you should make sure the boxes meet the following requirements:

Target a Specific Bird: Building a generic home for any bird rarely works, as each family of birds has unique needs. Therefore, you should target a bird family at your location. Use the right materials: It is crucial that you use the right building materials, paint and nails for nest boxes. Otherwise, you can expose the birds to extreme weather conditions, such as frost or overheating. For example, use galvanized screws instead of regular screws. A good nest box stays warm and dry: Making nest boxes that stay warm and dry all year round takes a combination of the right materials and the right technique. For example, you need to create drainage holes through the floor. Provide Adequate Ventilation: Air circulation is just as important for birdhouses as it is for our houses. Therefore, you must choose materials and employ techniques that allow for unobstructed airflow. Maintainability: Finally, you also need to consider maintainability. A great nest box is easy to clean and disinfect. It should also be easy to air out to dry.

What is the best material for a bird house?

Most birds prefer to build nests in birdhouses made of natural and untreated wood. It gives them a natural habitat. In addition, wooden houses are warm and cozy.

You are free to paint, stain or attach metal details outside of the home. However, the entire interior should consist of natural, untreated wood.

What about the plastic and metal bird feeders that are for sale on Amazon and eBay? Plastic, acrylic and painted and treated wood are only suitable for certain temporary applications as they attract and retain heat.

Meanwhile, metal is a poor insulator. A metal nest box exposes birds to extreme temperatures (too cold in winter and too hot in summer).

The only exception to synthetic birdhouses is concrete. Although heavy and expensive, concrete makes bird feeders practical and safe.

Best wood for bird house

Now that we know that wood is the best material for a birdhouse, let’s look at some of the best types of wood to make a great birdhouse.

1. Redwood

What we liked the most

Rick, the red color is visually stunning

Resistant to shrinkage and cracking

Naturally weatherproof

Termite and rot resistant

What could be improved

Tends to dent

All-heart redwood is expensive

Redwood is one of the types of wood that suits any woodworking project. The main reason is the availability of redwood compared to other types of wood with similar characteristics.

In addition, redwood is an extremely durable softwood and very environmentally friendly. For example, redwood stumps form new shoots easily, which encourages propagation.

In addition, redwood trees absorb up to three times more carbon dioxide from human emissions than other trees.

However, this is only the tip for the beginning. Redwood is also exceptionally beautiful. The reddish-brown heartwood and striking grain guarantee a stunning bird house.

It’s also highly resistant to moisture, so you don’t have to worry about moisture. Most importantly, redwood does not contain any toxic chemicals that could harm your birds.

The only downside is that redwood wood gets scratches and dents fairly easily. This makes it a poor choice for pecking birds like thrushes, woodpeckers, and the northern flicker.

2. Cedar

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What we liked the most

A very attractive shade of red

Nice hard grain

Exceptional machinability

Requires little maintenance (no staining required)

What could be improved

Cedar is quite expensive

It tends to fade over the years

Cedar is another excellent wood choice for constructing birdhouses. In fact, it’s the most popular choice when affordability and access aren’t issues.

Its unsurpassed insulating properties make cedar wood bird feeders warm and cozy in cold seasons and sufficiently cool on excessively hot days.

Also, cedar is lightweight, which is an added benefit when building birdhouses. You don’t want a heavy nest as the weight increases the risk of falling.

In addition, cedar wood is very dimensionally stable. It does not change size when exposed to extreme temperature changes. This is also very important as constant expansion and contraction can easily damage the nest.

Above all, cedar is environmentally stable and durable. It is resistant to insect attack, rot and vermin. Plus, it’s weather resistant and durable enough to last for many years.

3. Pine

What we liked the most

Attractive creamy white to yellow colour

Very cheap softwood

Easily editable

It is non-toxic wood

What could be improved

Not very durable

Treatment required to prevent rot

Pine is considered one of the best wood species for woodworking projects on a budget. It is readily available and very affordable. However, that doesn’t mean the quality is bad.

As a softwood, it’s easy to cut and machine, making it an even better choice if it’s your first woodworking project. The grains of most pines are also beautiful and easy to work with.

Pine wood is also moisture resistant, which means it handles outdoor conditions relatively well. It does not shrink or warp easily no matter the conditions.

In addition, it is highly elastic, so that natural movements within the wood hardly lead to changes in shape. Most importantly, pine is easily molded into various shapes. This can be an added benefit if you want to shape or otherwise decorate your birdhouse.

Note, however, that pine wood must be carefully treated with strong preservatives to prevent rot. Hardwoods like cedar don’t need this.

4. Douglas fir

What we liked the most

Lightweight and easy to use

Low shrinkage with high stability

It’s pretty affordable

Exceptionally weather resistant

What could be improved

A coarse texture makes processing difficult

You need particularly sharp tools to work on Douglas fir

The Douglas fir is one of many fir species grown worldwide. Others are the balsam fir, the Fraser fir, the grand fir and the Himalayan fir. The trees grow up to 80 meters high and have a diameter of up to four meters.

The lumber obtained from the logs is light brown with medium density. The first thing you need to know about Douglas Fir is that it is non-toxic.

Douglas fir leaf needles are even used as essential oils in aromatherapy to relieve coughs, flu and muscle aches. You may have heard of tea made from pine leaves. These properties mean the wood is safe for birds.

Douglas fir woods are also strong and durable. It also has exceptional dimensional stability, meaning it will not shrink due to weather changes. In addition, Douglas fir is resistant to insect and fungal attack, which increases its durability.

5. Teak

What we liked the most

A striking golden yellow hue

Very moisture and rot resistant

Very dimensionally stable

Highly rated for outdoor use

What could be improved

It’s a bit expensive

It’s not easy to find

Teak is a beautiful, unique wood with a natural golden honey tone. However, it is best known for its high resistance to rot, pests, and fungi in both marine and terrestrial environments.

This partly explains why it is the wood of choice for marine applications such as boat building, docks and decks. In addition, teak is very water-repellent.

The trunk contains natural oil that gives teak high moisture resistance. Don’t forget that it’s also very durable and low maintenance. It easily withstands temperature changes without changing its shape.

Unfortunately, teak is very expensive due to its many excellent properties. This is one of the main reasons many woodworkers avoid it. However, it’s a wonderful choice if budget isn’t a stumbling block.

6. Oak

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What we liked the most

Stunning natural look with a reddish brown hue

High density, moisture resistant wood

Valuable weather resistance

It stands out without painting or natural varnish

What could be improved

A bit expensive

A big heavyweight

If teak is beyond your budget, oak is a good alternative. It is a heavy, durable and long-lasting wood with exceptional strength. Both have smooth grain textures.

While teak is yellow, the most common oak, i. H. the red oak, a reddish-brown hue. However, white teak is much lighter and has a tight, even grain.

So what makes it a good choice for making nest boxes? Different things. For one thing, oak is bird-proof. It does not contain any toxins that could harm birds. Second, you don’t have to preserve oak.

The products are characterized by the absence of chemical paints or varnishes. This facilitates the natural placement/positioning of oak bird feeders.

We also love that oak wood is exceptionally strong and durable. Both red and white oak can last for many years. It’s also waterproof, so you don’t have to worry about cushioning. Unfortunately a bit expensive and heavy.

7. Beech

What we liked the most

Very affordable hardwood

Stains and polishes well

No taste or smell

birdproof

What could be improved

Poor machinability

Shrinks with temperature changes

Beech is another pink to reddish brown lumber. It features a slightly coarse texture with prominent rays and tiny pores. The straight grain gives it a contemporary feel.

Although its primary use is in furniture making, its natural properties make it a good choice for many other woodworking projects, including making birdhouses.

It is a hard and fairly heavy hardwood with high compressive strength. However, it is only moderately stiff and therefore easy to carve. It works easily with hand and power tools and has good nailing and gluing properties. It can also be colored and polished very well.

Other outstanding qualities of beech wood are its non-toxicity and affordability. It is classified as food safe (ie safe for birds) and is widely used in the manufacture of food containers as it does not impart flavor or colour. It is much cheaper than cherry, walnut and oak.

8. Cypress

What we liked the most

Durable and rot resistant

Easily editable

birdproof

Affordable and highly available

What could be improved

The characteristic odor can be repulsive

Decomposes readily on contact with soil

Finally, cypress is another good choice of wood when building a birdhouse. It is a light yellow wood with a white sapwood that looks very attractive. The straight grain pattern and medium texture are also easily recognizable.

Untreated cypress surfaces have a characteristic greasy feel. However, one of the main attractions of cypress wood is its durability and rot resistance. Cypress does not rot easily, even when exposed to adverse weather conditions.

It’s also durable enough to last a few decades. We also love that it’s very easy to work with. It accepts the equality of hand power tools and has excellent processing, bonding, nailing and painting properties. Most importantly, cypress wood is affordable.

The only downside is that cypress is irritating to the respiratory tract. Therefore, some woodworkers tend to avoid it for bird feeders. The distinctive cypress smell is another factor that can turn some people off.

You don’t need to worry though, as neither is a problem for birds. In fact, cypress is one of the wood species that attracts almost all bird species!

Can I use pressure treated wood for a birdhouse?

Unfortunately you shouldn’t. Pressure-treated wood is also known as CCA-treated wood, which means it contains chromate copper arsenate. CCA makes wood rot resistant, which is great.

However, it is also unsafe for animals, including birds and humans. Pressure treated wood can cause skin rashes, itching and even neurological problems.

This reasoning also applies to other chemically treated wood. For example, wood containing creosote is not healthy for birds, nor is wood painted with lead-based paints.

Can you use plywood for bird feeders?

Yes, you can use plywood to build a bird house. Its property of reflecting heat is very attractive. In addition, plywood is very durable and resistant to damping.

However, we recommend only marine and exterior grade plywood. These two types of plywood are sufficiently moisture resistant, so they are more suitable for outdoor construction.

Marine plywood is particularly good, although slightly more expensive than exterior plywood. If you must use plywood, learn how to waterproof plywood here.

Dos and Don’ts for Wooden Birdhouses: Tips to Keep in Mind

Building birdhouses is no different than any other woodworking project. It requires accuracy and great attention to detail. Below are some tips to guide you.

Wood is Best: Although you can build bird feeders out of plastic, vinyl, and metal, wood is the best material as it provides a natural habitat for birds. However, avoid treated wood and stay away from plywood whenever possible.

: Although you can build bird feeders out of plastic, vinyl, and metal, wood is the best material as it provides a natural habitat for birds. However, avoid treated wood and stay away from plywood whenever possible. Build the right size birdhouse: Different birds require different nest sizes. Otherwise, the space may be too small or too large and unattractive to the bird. The exact sizes for common bird species can be found here.

: Different birds require different nest sizes. Otherwise, the space may be too small or too large and unattractive to the bird. The exact sizes for common bird species can be found here. Adjust the flight hole accordingly: It is best to size the hole according to the type of bird you are targeting. For example, sparrows need 1-1 ¼ inch holes.

: It is best to size the hole according to the type of bird you are targeting. For example, sparrows need 1-1 ¼ inch holes. What is the correct height from the floor? Most birds are comfortable about four feet off the ground. You are free to go a little higher. However, keep it low enough for easier maintenance.

Most birds are comfortable about four feet off the ground. You are free to go a little higher. However, keep it low enough for easier maintenance. Protection of the ground: Make sure the sides enclose the ground to protect young birds from rain. Also ensure that the roof pitches are appropriate to protect the birds from rain.

Make sure the sides enclose the ground to protect young birds from rain. Also ensure that the roof pitches are appropriate to protect the birds from rain. Avoid perches: perches might look nice. However, they attract predators such as jays, crows, and ravens.

: Perches could look nice. However, they attract predators such as jays, crows, and ravens. Finishes: You can freely paint the exterior of the birdhouse, although unpainted nests work even better. The best choices are dark greens, natural tans, and grays found in nature. However, leave the inner surface as it is. Never paint inside the birdhouse.

: You are free to paint the exterior of the birdhouse, although unpainted nests work even better. The best choices are dark greens, natural tans, and grays found in nature. However, leave the inner surface as it is. Never paint inside the birdhouse. Ensure a strong foundation: Ideally, attach the next to a fixed point, e.g. B. a tree or post. Feel free to hang it up.

: Ideally, attach the next to a fixed point, e.g. B. a tree or post. Feel free to hang it up. Spacing Between Birdhouses: When building multiple birdhouses, install them at least 20 feet apart to prevent territorial wars. The only exceptions are wildfowl and common swallows, which have no territorial problems.

: When building multiple bird feeders, install them at least 20 feet apart to prevent territorial wars. The only exceptions are wildfowl and common swallows, which have no territorial problems. Ensure proper maintenance: You must clean your bird feeders at least once during the breeding season and disinfect them with the same frequency to prevent the spread of ovarian diseases. Also, you want to keep the birds inside warm. So make sure to keep the interior surfaces dry and comfortable.

frequently asked Questions

What is the best hole size for a bird house?

Many birds are comfortable with entrance holes that are 2.5 to 1.5 inches in diameter. Don’t make the hole too big or too small.

What is the best wood for a birdhouse?

Cedar wood is considered to be the best wood for making a bird house. Its heat-insulating properties ensure warm and comfortable nests even in winter. Cedar is also durable and affordable.

How do you make a birdhouse waterproof?

The easiest way to waterproof a birdhouse is to paint it once the paint has dried. We recommend sealing with a light coat of raw licensed oil. Just remember that approved oil seals can take up to a few weeks to dry.

What is the Best Wood for Bluebird Homes?

You can use any type of wood to attract thrushes as long as it’s ¾ inch thick and unpainted. However, white pines tend to work particularly well when targeting eastern bluebirds. Avoid chipboard or plywood.

In general, you will need measuring tools (square, tape measure, etc.), saws (miter saw, hand saw, power saw), a hammer, a drill (hand or motor), and drill bits. For materials you will need pieces of solid wood, exterior wood glue, nails, putty, exterior paint and a brush.

summary

Building nest boxes is a fun way to spend your free time while protecting wildlife. You will be incredibly proud to see how the birds live and reproduce in the nests you build.

It’s not an easy job, though, so be prepared. Above all, make sure to use the best wood for the birdhouse to give the birds the best possible home.

Pigeons are birds, right? So if we want to feed garden birds, shouldn’t we also be happy to feed pigeons? Hmm, well maybe, to a point. But if you’ve ever become popular with your local pigeon population, you’ll know there’s a moment when you just think, “Enough!” If you’ve reached that point, then read on.

This will prevent pigeons from eating all of your bird seed.

Why are pigeons a problem?

Pigeons are birds, wild animals, part of nature. So why do we see them as a problem?

Unlike many of our other bird species, pigeons are very successful. Their number is increasing. In London alone there are more than 1 million pigeons. The clue is in the name. The person who decided to make “pig” the first part of their name had watched them feed them. They eat a lot, they eat fast, and they generally don’t stop until it’s all gone. This means that feeding the birds once the pigeons have moved in can cost you a small fortune. More importantly, they don’t share. Pigeons wait for you to put out food and then suck it up, leaving nothing for the smaller birds. They scare off smaller birds. Pigeons are much larger than many of our garden birds, and while they are not apt to attack other birds, they are intimidating. Smaller birds often won’t come to your feeders when pigeons are around. They bring their friends with them. There is never just one pigeon, they are friendly birds that visit in groups. Once they know you’re providing food, the groups seem to get bigger and bigger. They hang around. Pigeons don’t just seem to eat and walk. They hang around, presumably to see if you’ll offer them anything else of interest. They are loud. They seem to be cooing non-stop, and while this might seem like a sweet, relaxing sound at first, it quickly drives you insane when repeated for hours. They are easily startled, and the sound of five out of six of them escaping your lawn is quite something. And if you have an attic bedroom like me, the sound of a big fat pigeon coming in for a heavy landing and then skittering over your head at 4am on a summer morning can get pretty annoying. They’re full of shit. Despite what you may have heard, pigeon droppings are no more dangerous from a health perspective than any other bird’s droppings. There’s just more of it. Because they’re larger birds (and maybe because they eat so much), pigeons seem to produce a lot of poo. Finding it on your laundry, your patio furniture, in the bird bath is no fun at all.

As you can see, there are many good reasons why you wouldn’t want pigeons around.

Let’s look at how to make them less welcome.

Choosing the right feeders

Pigeons like to eat on the ground. They need a horizontal surface to land on and cannot cling to vertical or angled surfaces to feed. This should give us some clues as to what type of feed is unattractive to pigeons.

Straight sided hanging feeders are the most difficult for pigeons to feed directly, if they have small perches, all the better.

BUT crafty pigeons will try to tip these and spill the seed onto the ground where they will happily suck it up.

You can buy pigeon-proof feeders surrounded by cages that are too small for pigeons to access but wide enough to allow small birds to feed.

BUT many people have found that the wire cage on the outside makes it easier for the pigeons to tip it over and scatter the seed on the ground.

A practical option is spring-loaded bird feeders, which close the feeding holes a little heavier than a small bird.

The same goes for arched and window mounted feeders like this one. The holes are just too small for a pigeon to squeeze through.

food on the floor

You may want to store your hanging feeders for the blue tits and other small birds that love them. You may also want to provide food on the ground for blackbirds and others who prefer to feed there.

But how do you keep the pigeons away?

Pretty easy actually. You need a cage that will let seeds and small birds in but keep pigeons out.

You could use an inverted hanging basket or buy one.

The main things to consider are:

Make sure your cage is appropriately sized, at least 20 inches wide. Otherwise, although a whole pigeon may not be able to get in, the eating end will, tearing up all your seeds.

hold it tight Fix the cage to the floor or the pigeons will just push it out of the way. Tent pegs or these would work well.

The other strategy that works quite well for bottom feeders is to toss the food into your borders or dense bushes. Although the pigeons will try to get these, they are much less agile than the smaller birds, so smaller birds tend to get more of the food.

Protect your bird table

Amazon does not offer a bird table that is pigeon-proof either. But there are several DIY solutions and pigeon repellents that you could try.

Make a cage out of chicken wire. Try surrounding your table with chicken wire and leave a hinged opening on one side for you to get inside. If the holes in your wire are about 4cm wide, small birds should be able to access the table but pigeons cannot.

Make a fence. String or wire hanging from the ceiling of your feeding table at 4cm intervals should serve the same purpose as the chicken wire. We’ve also seen sticks stuck into the ground around the table for the same purpose. It doesn’t look pretty, but apparently it does the job.

Try out some bird tips. Bird spikes look awful and I’d be nervous about using them. But supposedly they don’t harm birds, just discourage them from landing. Therefore, spikes on the top, even at the edges of the feed table, should deter the pigeons that like to land there, while the smaller birds fly straight to the feed. You might also want to try some of these on your roof if the pigeons like to sit up there waiting for you to show up with dinner.

The right food

Would it surprise you to know that pigeons love junk food? Probably not. Pigeons like sunflower seeds in shell, corn, millet – all those things that go into cheaper seed mixes to bulk them up.

You are not so enthusiastic about:

So the more you can focus on these foods and buy the best seed mix, the less interested your pigeons will be.

If you can’t beat them, feed them

We are a gentle touch in our household. And I suppose the pigeons know. So we feed them. But we have a cunning plan.

We have cheap seed mix and cheap bread. We throw some of it on the ground in the front yard. The pigeons descend. Then we crawl around the back and put the goodies out for our other garden birds.

It works reasonably well. The little birds look in before the pigeons arrive. And we don’t spend a lot of money on pigeon feed.

If you can’t get rid of the pigeons, either because there are just too many in your area, or because you’re a gentle person like us, then offering cheap feed far away from your main feeding grounds is a good compromise.

Conclusion

Pigeons do not spread disease any more than any other bird, and they do not attack other birds. But they can monopolize your feeder. This means smaller birds may be deterred or not given a chance to get the food they need.

You can make your yard less pigeon friendly by choosing the right feeders and feeders. Or give your smaller birds a chance by feeding pigeons in another part of the garden whatever junk food they prefer.

Pigeons are far too numerous for us to hope to completely get rid of them from our gardens. But by following a few simple steps, you can give your other birds a shot at the feeders and save yourself some money.

We hope you enjoyed this article and found it useful. If you have any questions or ideas on how to keep pigeons away from your bird feeders, we’d love to hear them. Leave us a comment below.

And to read more about wildlife and garden birds, check out our bird blog here.

What is the best food for birds?

Different birds need different food to feed themselves. If you offer a variety of foods, you’re more likely to attract many species.

Household scraps such as pastries, cooked rice and breadcrumbs are eaten by many garden birds. Fruit, especially bruised apples and pears, are loved by thrushes and blackbirds.

When buying bird seed, try to get a good mix of peanuts, seeds, and live foods like mealworms and waxworms. Then you should have something to offer all birds. Good ready mixes should contain sunflower seeds, crushed peanuts, corn flakes and smaller seeds like millet.

How do I keep my bird feeders, feeding tables and bird baths clean?

When promoting wildlife in an area, hygiene is very important. Remember to keep bird feeders, feeding tables and bird baths clean to keep the birds that use them fit, healthy and disease free.

From ensuring you have the right gear and taking the right precautions to optimizing locations away from roosting, here are detailed guides and top tips.

What is the best food for birds in cold weather?

During cold snaps, your food supply can save birds’ lives. Make sure you put out food and water regularly. In bad weather, feed twice a day in the morning and early afternoon if possible.

Bird cakes and bars are great choices due to their high fat content, as are peanuts. Bird seed mixes are also rich in oils. You can also feed them kitchen waste such as fat and tallow, mildly grated cheese, boiled potatoes, pastries and dried fruit.

Can I lay out salted peanuts for the birds?

No – most garden birds cannot process salt and will die if given too much. It’s best not to offer garden birds foods that are high in salt, including salted peanuts, salty bacon, french fries and chips.

Can you feed peanuts during the breeding season?

During the breeding season, it is important to only release peanuts in metal mesh feeders. This means birds cannot ingest whole nuts, which young birds can choke on. It’s also important not to use nylon mesh bags as these can trap bird feet.

Are mealworms good food for birds?

Mealworms are rich in nutrients and make excellent food for insectivorous birds such as robins, blue tits, wrens and wagtails. They can be fed to the birds all year round. In very cold or very dry weather, when birds have trouble finding worms, insects and spiders in hard soil, mealworms are a good alternative for them.

Where should I place my garden bird table?

Bird tables should be placed where the birds are safe and can feed undisturbed. Avoid placing them near fences or thick hedges where cats can easily get to them. If there is a small bush nearby, birds can use it as a vantage point to make sure it’s safe.

And don’t forget to make sure it’s visible from a window so you can watch the birds feed.

What can I treat a bird table with?

It is best for the birds if you leave a bird table untreated. However, it will last longer if you treat it. Water-based preservatives are less toxic and won’t affect the food you lay out. The preservative should be completely dry before using the table for feeding.

Should I provide drinking water for my garden birds?

It is good to regularly provide the birds with clean water for drinking and bathing.

Water is especially important in winter, when natural supplies may be frozen, and in dry weather. Shallow containers, like trash can lids or plant saucers work well, but make sure you clean them regularly to prevent the spread of disease.

It’s summer, why have the birds suddenly disappeared from my garden?

This question is asked to us regularly in the summer. If you don’t find any dead birds, then you really don’t need to worry. In late summer, the birds are approaching the end of a hectic period: the breeding season.

Many of them go through a moulting period to renew worn or juvenile plumage. While losing their flight feathers, they are vulnerable, so hide from predators.

They rarely sing and no longer need to defend their territory, so they seem to be disappearing. Late summer and early fall is also a time of abundance for birds. The natural food supply is plentiful. For example, birds will migrate from their breeding grounds to farmland, orchards, or forests to feed on grains, berries, and weed seeds.

They may be absent from the gardens until we get the first autumn frosts so late summer is a good time to clean out bird feeders and feeding tables so they are ready for the birds to return. A 10% sanitizing solution is suitable, but rinse all feeders thoroughly before using them again.

Water tanks should be scrubbed out and wooden tables can be treated with a water-based preservative to protect them. Consider hanging the bird feeders and placing the feeding table in different spots and make sure they are cleaned regularly. This will help reduce the spread of disease among the birds that visit your feeder.

Wet bird seed can be uncomfortable for bird watchers and dangerous for birds. But how can garden watchers protect bird seed from rain and snow? It’s easy to keep bird seed dry and still provide healthy, nutritious food to the birds.

Problems with wet bird seed

Wet birdseed is not only uncomfortable; It can cause a number of problems at backyard feeders, such as:

Mold. Wet seed spoils and molds faster and encourages bacterial growth that can transmit diseases to backyard birds and even kill them. Birds are less likely to eat spoiled seed, which creates waste and even discourages birds from visiting feeding sites where there are other food sources to visit.

Wet seed spoils and molds faster and encourages bacterial growth that can transmit diseases to backyard birds and even kill them. Birds are less likely to eat spoiled seed, which creates waste and even discourages birds from visiting feeding sites where there are other food sources to visit. Odor. The musty, damp smell of wet bird seed makes a feeding station less pleasant, and while birds probably aren’t that bothered by smells, bird watchers won’t appreciate the stench. Strong odors also attract predators and food pests such as mice, rats, raccoons, and bears, which can lead to food damage and other problems.

The musty, damp smell of wet bird seed makes a feeding station less pleasant, and while birds probably aren’t that bothered by smells, bird watchers won’t appreciate the stench. Strong odors also attract predators and food pests such as mice, rats, raccoons, and bears, which can lead to food damage and other problems. stickiness. Wet seeds, especially oily seeds such as black oil sunflower seeds, shelled sunflower seeds and nyjer, lumps. Large clumps can clog the feeding holes, making it difficult for birds to access the seed. Wet seed can also cause oily stains, making the feeder less aesthetically pleasing.

Wet seeds, especially oily seeds such as black oil sunflower seeds, shelled sunflower seeds and nyjer, lumps. Large clumps can clog the feeding holes, making it difficult for birds to access the seed. Wet seed can also cause oily stains, making the feeder less aesthetically pleasing. Sprout. If bird seed gets wet, the seeds can germinate and begin to sprout. Birds do not eat germinated seeds, so the seeds are not only wasted but can be thrown out of the feeder where they will sprout on the lawn. This causes unsightly growths and disturbs flower beds, lawns and gardens where bird feeders are hung.

Feeder to keep the seed dry

The easiest way to keep birdseed dry is to use bird feeders with adequate protection from rain and snow. When choosing a feeder that is sheltered on rainy days, pay attention to:

Canopy. A sturdy roof with a good, long overhang can cover feed pans or openings and keep seeds dry. Check how the roof is attached to ensure water cannot seep through gaps or holes in seed trays or bird feeders.

A sturdy roof with a good, long overhang can cover feed pans or openings and keep seeds dry. Check how the roof is attached to ensure water cannot seep through gaps or holes in seed trays or bird feeders. mesh fabric. The mesh construction promotes air circulation, so the water evaporates quickly before the seed spoils. Mesh pans or side panels under a solid roof can be ideal, but make sure they are well protected so water cannot seep in through the mesh.

The mesh construction promotes air circulation, so the water evaporates quickly before the seed spoils. Mesh tubs or side panels under a solid roof can be ideal, but make sure they are well protected so water cannot seep in through the mesh. Drainage. If a little water gets into the feeding trough, there should be adequate drainage to prevent puddles. Very small drainage holes can be insufficient in humid climates and could easily become clogged with small seeds or discarded shells.

If a little water gets into the feeding trough, there should be adequate drainage to prevent puddles. Very small drainage holes can be insufficient in humid climates and could easily become clogged with small seeds or discarded shells. feeding holes. Study how birds access the seed in the feeder. If the feed holes have small covers or are slightly recessed, less water will get into the seed and it will be easier for them to stay dry. Open bowls or wide funnels are more likely to get wet.

Ways to keep bird seed dry

While careful selection of a feeder can help ensure moisture doesn’t become an issue, no bird feeder can fully guarantee that the bird seed will remain dry, especially in areas with a lot of rain and moisture. To further protect the seed, consider the following:

feeder position. Hanging a bird feeder a few inches below a roof or awning will help keep rain off the birdseed. Positioning a feeder under a thick tree can also help minimize water intrusion. Hang the feeders high enough or place them out of reach of sprinklers and avoid windy areas where rain or snow could blow into the feeders.

Hanging a bird feeder a few inches below a roof or awning will help keep rain off the birdseed. Positioning a feeder under a thick tree can also help minimize water intrusion. Hang the feeders high enough or place them out of reach of sprinklers and avoid windy areas where rain or snow could blow into the feeders. baffles. Placing a wide baffle over a feeder not only helps protect the feeder from squirrels, but also protects against rain. Hang the cover as close as possible over the feeding area while still allowing enough room for the birds to easily reach the seed to maximize its effectiveness. A low baffle can also deter starlings or other large birds from taking over the feeder.

Placing a wide baffle over a feeder not only helps protect the feeder from squirrels, but also protects against rain. Hang the cover as close as possible over the feeding area while still allowing enough room for the birds to easily reach the seed to maximize its effectiveness. A low baffle can also deter starlings or other large birds from taking over the feeder. add drainage. When a feeder collects water in the base and the existing drainage is inadequate, it is easy to improve that drainage. If possible, widen the drainage holes or drill additional holes for more drainage. Adding a small layer of gravel or a bunch of window screens to the bottom of the feeder will also lift the seed away from puddles and keep the seed dry.

When a feeder collects water in the base and the existing drainage is inadequate, it is easy to improve that drainage. If possible, widen the drainage holes or drill additional holes for more drainage. Adding a small layer of gravel or a bunch of window screens to the bottom of the feeder will also lift the seed away from puddles and keep the seed dry. change food. Even in wetlands, seed cannot get wet once the birds have eaten it. Opt for higher quality bird seed that the birds will eat faster and there will be fewer seeds to get wet. Offering different types of food that are more resilient to moisture, such as fruit or whole nuts, can also be effective and attract a wider range of species.

Even in wetlands, seed cannot get wet once the birds have eaten it. Opt for higher quality bird seed that the birds will eat faster and there will be fewer seeds to get wet. Offering different types of food that are more resilient to moisture, such as fruit or whole nuts, can also be effective and attract a wider range of species. adjust feeding. Opt for smaller feeders that can be refilled more frequently; These feeders are easier to empty when it rains, eliminating the need to water seed. After the rain, wait an hour or two to refill the feeders to allow them to dry and the seed will stay fresher longer.

Opt for smaller feeders that can be refilled more frequently; These feeders are easier to empty when it rains, eliminating the need to water seed. After the rain, wait an hour or two to refill the feeders to allow them to dry and the seed will stay fresher longer. Dried animal food. After soaking, allow the feeders to dry sufficiently and avoid placing seeds immediately into a wet feeder. If possible, wipe the feeder with a clean cloth and make sure the feed openings are dry before refilling. This also helps keep the feeder cleaner for longer.

After soaking, allow the feeders to dry sufficiently and avoid placing seeds immediately into a wet feeder. If possible, wipe the feeder with a clean cloth and make sure the feed openings are dry before refilling. This also helps keep the feeder cleaner for longer. seed storage. Store bird seed in a dry place, preferably in an airtight container. This not only prevents moisture from damaging the seed, but also keeps mice, moths, insects and other unwanted pests away.

It is best to use different techniques to keep the bird seed dry; But beware, no garden watcher has to deal with moldy, sticky, smelly seeds or angry birds that don’t appreciate a wet meal. Dry bird seed is healthier and more attractive to birds, and also keeps a feeding station more attractive to bird watchers.

I’ve had a few palettes for a while and am wondering how to use them. I decided to build a rustic bird feeder to feed the local wildlife. Visit www.Home-Dzine.co.za for many more nifty DIY ideas for using scrap pallets.

YOU WILL NEED:

Old wood pallets or old wood

4 x 40mm cut screws

TOOL:

Drill / screwdriver + various bits

25 mm spade bit

Jigsaw, circular saw or handsaw

We no longer support IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide website experiences for browsers that support new web standards and security practices.

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I’ve had a few palettes for a while and am wondering how to use them. I decided to build a rustic bird feeder to feed the local wildlife. Visit www.Home-Dzine.co.za for many more nifty DIY ideas for using scrap pallets.

YOU WILL NEED:

Old wood pallets or old wood

4 x 40mm cut screws

TOOL:

Drill / screwdriver + various bits

25 mm spade bit

Jigsaw, circular saw or handsaw

We no longer support IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide website experiences for browsers that support new web standards and security practices.

We recommend our users to update the browser.