How To Keep Bedding Dry When Camping? The 128 Correct Answer

Tent condensation manifests itself either as frost on the inner surface of your tent or as droplets of moisture being transferred from the inner tent to your clothing and gear. This is undesirable, especially in winter, as it can get your gear wet and reduce its insulating properties

Here are a few camping tips to limit the amount of condensation in a single or double wall tent.

Ventilate your tent

The best way to prevent moisture from building up in your tent is to help it escape by airing your tent. If your tent has a front door and an inner fly screen, you can open the outer door fully and still prevent snow from getting in by keeping the screen closed.

Alternatively, it is best to leave both vestibules wide open to avoid frost forming inside. In my experience, venting through a smaller hole is far less effective at reducing condensation or frost build-up.

Don’t cook in your tent

If you can avoid it, do not boil or melt snow in your tent. This makes it just a Turkish steam bath. If the weather is just too bad to avoid this, try digging a hole under your tent’s porch, if you have one, and cook in it with the door to the tent closed behind you.

Do not bring snow into your tent

If you bring snow inside your tent, you increase the chances that it will melt and increase the internal humidity in your tent. Brush any snow off your boots, back, ropes and gloves before entering the tent. If you have an antechamber in front of the main door, leave any gear that doesn’t need drying there. If, despite these precautions, you bring snow into your tent, sweep it out carefully.

Don’t exhale into your sleeping bag

It’s tempting to tuck your head into your sleeping bags on those long winter nights. Do not do it. Keep your face away from the pocket and avoid breathing moisture into your insulation. You can breathe out a liter of water at night: not only will that affect your isolation, but you’ll have to carry it all next day as extra backpack weight if it stays locked in your bag.

Dry your sleeping bag in the morning sun

If it’s sunny in the morning, open your sleeping bag and dry it in the sun on your tent. Many down sleeping bags have a dark colored inside for precisely this purpose, in order to absorb as much solar radiation as possible and to speed up drying. It is undesirable to bring a wet or damp sleeping bag back into your tent on a following night as this will cause condensation and retain less body heat.

Place wet gear in a dry bag

Don’t try to dry large items like pants or a sweater in your sleeping bag at night. Instead, put them in a stuff sack, close it, and stuff it in your sleeping bag to keep the contents from freezing. If necessary, you can use your body heat to dry these garments by wearing them the next day.

These are some basic tips for staying dry in a winter tent. If you can recommend others, please leave a comment.

How can you prevent condensation in your tent?

Here are our top tips for a dry night!

Air your tent!

The most effective way to prevent condensation is to ventilate your tent and reduce the internal humidity of your tent by encouraging good airflow. Examine your tent for low and high ventilation options and open them to let the moist air flow out. If weather conditions permit, leave the top and bottom portions of the door open, mesh panels can remain fully zipped closed. If necessary, also ensure that the ventilation openings at the back of the tent are fully open. Make sure that the ventilation openings are not blocked by bags or sleeping bodies.

Store wet things outside

Towels, boots, rainwear, swimming trunks, sweaty friends… keep damp, wet gear out of the tent. Use an awning, tarp or hub to store wet gear.

Don’t touch the sides

When pressure is applied to the tent walls of a polycotton tent, water can seep through. Keep bags and other items away from the tent walls and remember that condensation can collect at the base of the AirBeams.

Never cook indoors

Primarily for safety reasons, but cooking also releases large amounts of moisture into the air. Do you remember the extractor hood in the kitchen at home?

Turn off heaters

Further heating of the air inside the tent increases the water vapor in the air, since warm air can hold more moisture (our techies talk about dew points and percentage humidity), and the warmer the tent, the more moisture is released into the tent through evaporation and perspiration . Instead of heating the tent, warm up with the right clothing and good sleeping bags.

Pitch where there is a natural breeze

Sheltered areas are more prone to condensation. Set up your tent so that the vents line up with the prevailing winds.

Don’t stand too close to the water

Rivers and lakes can increase humidity. Pitching your tent a little farther from water sources can help reduce condensation.

Take spare towels with you

In some weather conditions, condensation is difficult to avoid. Cut it down with the steps above and pack a spare towel to just wipe away.

rain happens. But you don’t have to spoil your camping experience. Here are some tips for camping in the rain to keep you happy and dry when the liquid sun falls from the sky.

1. Find the right campsite

Choose a campground with a small elevation that is not on a river or lake. It’s no fun waking up in three inches of water during a downpour. Even better, having your tent facing the morning sun makes it easier to coax yourself out of your sleeping bag on rainy mornings. And definitely not under a tree. Long after the rain has stopped, raindrops will continue to drip on your head and falling branches could injure you if the wind picks up overnight.

2. Brighten up the night

Lights can help improve the ambiance under the tarp or tree canopy. Bring LED string lights to drape around the campsite, light some candles that flicker sweetly in mason jars, and pack a good camp lantern and flashlights. Remember to bring plenty of extra batteries; Lithium batteries are particularly reliable in cold weather. If you think you’re going to be late, attach reflectors to the trees near your tent to help you find your way back after dark.

3. Create an outdoor living room

When the day’s activities are done, don’t let everyone retreat to their tents – create an outdoor living room. Create a camping rain shelter by putting up a tarp or two overhead and one on the ground. Then set up camp chairs, take care of the ambient lighting, bring out the drinks and snacks, and get the music and games going. Cards Against Humanity, anyone?

4. Power (food) for the people

After you return from your hike, keep the wet and cold at bay with some home cooking. A cup of hot cocoa is enough on rainy afternoons. Aztec hot chocolate with chili goes even further. Do you have a great campfire pizza or a Dutch oven lasagna recipe? Now it’s time to clear that up. We humans need more calories to maintain body temperature when it’s cold, so make sure the carbs come. It’s always nice to throw some veggies into the mix, but do yourself a favor and prepare them first in your warm home instead of peeling and chopping them in the cold.

5th layer up

The right camping rainwear and a good layering system will help regulate your body temperature, wick away moisture while you’re active, and retain body heat when you’re cooling down. Choose polyester or wool base and mid-layers under a waterproof jacket or rain poncho. Cotton is never a good choice because when it gets wet, it stays wet, causing your body temperature to drop quickly. Make sure to pack an extra set of underwear and woolen socks in a waterproof bag to hang out at camp if you want a dry change of clothes and a hot cup of coffee to warm you up.

6. Opt for orange

Driven in the drizzle during hunting season? Don’t forget to wear bright colors like red or orange. You don’t want to be mistaken for a deer or a waterfowl, so leave your urban color scheme at home and show off that orange parka that will really make your eyes pop.

7. Hang up, then hang up

When your clothes are soaked, it might be tempting to toss them in the corner and curl up in your sleeping bag. Consider hanging wet clothes first. You’ll thank us tomorrow if you have dry clothes that don’t smell of mold. Pack a clothesline and stretch it under a tarp or the porch of your tent so you can hang all your wet clothes to dry. If you take the time to control the humidity factor, your journey will be much more comfortable.

Pro tip: if you’re in dire need of dry clothes, put some damp clothes in your sleeping bag. Your body heat will dry them overnight.

8. Add a bivy sack

If the ground is wet and cold, add a bivy sack to stay warm. This extra layer of insulation protects your sleeping bag from moisture and can also help retain a bit of heat.

You can also double up sleeping pads to keep you warmer. Once you’ve snuggled up for the night, try to leave your face unprotected. Breathing into the sleeping bag can cause the down insulation to get wet, affecting performance. Better yet, choose a synthetic bag that will insulate even when wet.

9. Preheat to 98.6 degrees

So that you don’t have to put on cold clothes, preheat them to 98.6 degrees! Put tomorrow’s clothes in a small, breathable bag and stuff it in your sleeping bag to keep it nice and warm against your body overnight. Warm clothes to wear in the morning make chilly mornings so much better.

10. Knock out the hand warmers

Poor circulation can be a factor when it’s humid outside. Knock out the hand warmers. Stuff a few in your boots to make breakfast a little cozier, then ride into your morning hike on those warm, happy feet.

11. Flip and sip

Ever wake up to find your water bottle has frozen overnight? Turn your water bottle upside down. Water always freezes from above. If temperatures dip below freezing overnight, turn your water bottle upside down so the ground freezes instead and you can have at least a few sips in the morning.

12. Save the day with spats

Consider wearing rain pants or pack gaiters. Wet leaves and morning dew can quickly get you wet and even soak your pants. Rain pants and gaiters can save the day.

How do you stay dry when camping in the rain? Share your camping tips and hacks in the comments below.

You can find more camping tips here.

If you’re new to camping or haven’t camped in a while, there might be a few things you’re wondering about as you plan your next camping adventure. You will surely be considering what to put under your camping tent or whether you even need a groundsheet or tarpaulin.

Setting up camp is an essential part of the camping experience and since the camping tent is your shelter for your wilderness trip, setting up and staking your tent properly is key to your comfort. Every tent is a little different and your setup has a lot to do with your camping gear, the weather and the location of your campsite. Some forego using a ground cover, but this is not recommended.

Whichever ground cover you choose, make sure you pitch your tent on high ground. Scan the campsite and select the area that is higher than the rest.

TripSavvy

How to set up your ground coverage

Putting some form of ground covering or tarpaulin under your tent is essential to the durability of your tent and to keeping it warm and dry. Different terrains require different solutions for your tent and ground cover. There are a few important things to consider when pitching your tent and deciding what type of ground cover to use.

Put a tarp under your tent in woods and fields, but be sure to fold it so it doesn’t overhang the edge of the tent. If the tarpaulin extends too far, even dew will run down the tent walls and collect under your tent.

When camping on the beach, put a tarp inside the tent rather than under the tent. Sand camping is very different and in heavy rain water will seep into your tent if it doesn’t float if you put a tarp under the tent. Unless you are on a sandy campsite in a low spot, a tarp under the tent is not necessary as water quickly seeps into the sand.

A third way to place a tarpaulin is to put it over the tent and possibly in combination with an inner and/or sub-tarpaulin. Also, think about the wind, as wind makes it harder to hold a tarp over a tent and also sometimes blows rain sideways, possibly through the side seams of your tent. So place your tarps for maximum protection.

About waterproofing

Tent walls should breathe and are not waterproof, only water-repellent. Both fly and floor should be covered with waterproof protection when purchased. Be sure to use seam sealer on all seams of new tents, and about every year before the first camping trip of the season.

Ground Cover Options

Some tents offer the option to purchase a pitch. However, these pitches can be expensive as they are designed for the specific tent and provide the most suitable option. If you can afford it, it’s a good option. Then use your tarp for extra protection over the tent or around camp when the weather takes a turn.

Whichever option you choose, always use a ground cover under your tent. This will prevent moisture from seeping through your tent and getting your gear wet, protecting the life of your tent. Abrasive ground wears down the floor of any tent, no matter how tough it is, so a ground cover or tarpaulin protects the tent.

A gentle patter-pattern on your fly can be a soothing natural sound when you’re lying in your tent at night. However, when these drips form inside your tent, it becomes an extremely uncomfortable resting place. And under the right circumstances, the culprit – condensation – can infiltrate even the most sophisticated shelter.

So how do you prevent condensation? The answer boils down to three strategies:

Choose an optimal place to pitch your tent (answer: under trees) Minimize additional sources of moisture in your tent Ventilate, ventilate, ventilate

When warm air meets a cold surface, condensation can occur. You see this effect in a mug of cold beer on a hot day. The same thing can happen in a tent: warm air inside flows to the rain tent, which is cooler because the air outside is cooler. The result is condensation on the underside of your fly. This water can then soak through your tent fabric or drip through a mesh window.

Strategy #1: pitch on dry ground, preferably under trees.

Trees are your friend because the air underneath trees tends to be warmer (as opposed to say a wide open field) so your fly will be warmer too. In addition, condensation occurs on the foliage instead of on your tent.

Strategy #2: Minimize the additional sources of moisture in your tent.

Moisture in a tent comes from three places:

The existing level of moisture in the air itself (humidity) Moisture added to your internal airspace by each nightly breath Moisture added by wet items you may have in your tent

Once you have chosen a spot to pitch your tent, the humidity level will be set. And even though you exhale moisture throughout the night, not breathing is not an option. But you can control whether you store or hang wet clothes in a tent. If condensation control is the goal, dry things out during the day (and never let a soaked dog sleep in your tent).

Strategy No. 3: Ventilate early, often and extensively.

The air inside the tent is almost always wetter than the outside air, so you want to replace the inside air with the drier outside air. Ventilation strategies include:

If there is a light breeze, pitch the tent with the door facing in. Guy the tent taut and tension the rainfly to maximize the airspace between it and the tent wall. Open all rain screen doors and roll up sections; Only use them when it starts to rain. Open all rain protection openings, especially the opposite ones for cross ventilation. Open all inner tent windows.

It’s rare for your flysheet to be dry in the morning, but if you follow these tips, most of the moisture should be kept out – where it belongs.

Yes, it is actually due to capillary action. Since there are already great answers from Dynadin and Aravona and Snow Crash I would strictly limit the scope of my answer to why and how it happens, just to clarify how capillary action comes about.

The basic property of water molecules is to stick together, we call this cohesion, and these molecules also tend to stick to anything that comes in contact, this we call adhesion. Physics defines capillary action as the movement of water molecules (in layman’s terms, water as a whole) within the spaces of a porous material or surface due to adhesion, cohesion, and surface tension. The cohesive property of water causes it to inhibit surface tension, a property that liquids inhibit in order to conserve as little surface area as possible.

The best example to explain this would be half a glass of water on a hard flat surface and you wipe it off with tissue paper. Tissue paper is fibrous and therefore porous.

As Dynadin explained (quote from his answer)

With older tents, the water column was usually quite low. In addition, the base materials were often untreated, cotton, nylon, etc. When touched, capillary action could not be prevented, so the inside of the material became wet.

which clearly explains why water drips through. The one claim that I think everyone has overlooked is surface tension, which comes into the picture along with the sorptivity of the tent fabric. The technical term (when viewed specifically with capillary action) for what we vaguely refer to as permeability, or the amount of leakage that can take place, is sorptivity, which Wikipedia defines as:

Measure of the capacity of the medium to absorb liquid through capillarity

Mathematical (and harder to look at)

V = AS(t1/2)

Where V is the volume of water absorption, A is the surface area exposed to the water, S is the sorptivity of the tent surface, and t is the time you set up the tent while something is touching the wall.

One question: Have you ever bought a cheap rain jacket? Gets wet on elbows first than belly.

Give it a try, take a cloth that isn’t really rainproof. Put it on a jar as a filter. Pour water quickly, faster and in more volume than the cloth can filter and drip underneath. You should see water being collected, slowly filtered, and then collected in the vessel below. Now somehow put your hand in the vessel and insert the filter cloth from the inside, the water shall be collected faster than before. End of the game, throw away the water to the plants.

What does capillary action have to do with something touching the tent from the inside?

It has everything to do with the porosity and sorbency of the surface and the surface tension of the tent fabric.

Is sleeping comfort in a tent even possible?

Apparently it is.

Maybe I’m not the right person to answer that question… Personally, I’m still searching for the secret formula for a good night’s sleep in a tent!

But over the years I’ve definitely found some solid tips for making sure the night is as comfortable as possible and I’ll share those with you here!

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The Most Comfortable Way to Sleep in a Tent It seems that the magic formula for comfortable sleeping in a tent involves these 7 things. It’s a balance and a game of priorities…especially when you’re carrying your tent and sleeping gear on your back! Your sleeping mattress A pillow and blankets The sleeping position and angle Temperature Lights and sounds Your ability to relax And eliminate things that bother you, like sleeping peacefully…. may be? But because I’m sure you’re here for more than a simple list, let’s get into the details! I would say that a good quality sleeping pad and sleeping bag are some of the camping essentials that are worth investing the time and money in to ensure you find the best solution for your camping needs.

If you’re in a hurry, I prefer to sleep on an air mattress with bed linen and pillows from home, with blankets or carpets under the air mattress and on the tent floor. But this setup isn’t always possible, and there are other factors as well…hence all options and discussions below.

1. Let’s start with the camping sleeping pad:

What to sleep on when camping? Well, that sure is a tough question!

You need to consider a variety of camping beds: foam pads, inflatable pads, air mattresses, camping beds, or even mini camping bunk beds! Oh, and you can always skip the mattress and sleep right on the floor if you’re that adventurous!

Some camping mattresses are very affordable, under $40, and some will cost over $300. Is convenience directly related to price? Not necessarily. More expensive mattresses have other properties, such as B. light weight and compactness, a higher insulation value, size, material and the like.

If you’re not used to sleeping on camping mattresses, you might find them quite uncomfortable as they don’t really offer much padding. Side sleepers often complain of sore hips when sleeping on thin inflatable camping mattresses. Instead, air mattresses and camp beds are often preferred by adults.

Kids, on the other hand, seem to be content with foam pads and small camping mattresses. In a pinch, kids can even sleep on yoga mats, foam squares, or even folded blankets when temperatures are warm. (My 3 year old preferred to sleep on his bedroom rug rather than his bed for a whole year!)

Read more about camping with small children here if you are looking for more tips and suggestions for young camping families.

Whatever mattress you choose, read more about warmth and temperature below because your mattress matters when camping in cool climates.

My personal experience tips: If you tend to sleep on your side, you’ll want a thicker mattress (perhaps consider something in the 3-4 inch thickness).

If you sleep in cooler temperatures that can approach freezing, get a mattress with as high an R value as possible for the price, weight and size of the mattress (in my opinion, don’t look at anything below 3 R value)

If you can try the mattress in the store, do it! Roll over a little to hear what it sounds like and if those sounds will wake you or your campmates

If you’re sleeping with someone you want to snuggle up with, get a double mattress…otherwise one of you will inevitably wake up and find yourself sandwiched between the mattresses Tent for my double air mattress, I’ll bring that! In my opinion, good quality air mattresses are the most comfortable way to sleep in a tent.

However, if you’re hiking or don’t have room for an air mattress in your tent, you need to find a camping mattress that’s right for you.

While I’m always amazed at how many Foamies I see strapped to backpacks on the trail, I personally don’t find them ideal. (By foamie, I’m referring to the eggshell-shaped pads or the pads that look like yoga mats.)

These are some of the best sellers on Amazon, but these aren’t my top picks. Please note that I would not consider any of these very popular sellers for cool weather tent camping. Their insulation R-values ​​are all below 2. I also don’t trust them to be very comfortable as they are quite thin and the quilts look like they’re going to sag which means there’s less cushioning if that weight is applied to the pad itself.

(But I can’t be entirely wrong as I’ve never slept on one of these, so if you have one and love it please let me know!)

Super Popular Sellers, but NOT MY RECOMMENDATION:

What is the most comfortable sleeping pad for camping?

This is the camping mattress that I have. It’s a Therm-a-Rest Neo Air Ultralight. I tend to sleep on my side. I find this mattress to be quite noisy when I move, but it’s thick and seems more comfortable than mattresses I’ve used before. However, I sometimes wonder if a little more thickness would be nicer. And the R-value on this Neo Air is over 4, which means I’m usually very warm in it.

My camping mattress – the Therm-a-Rest Neo Air Compact, weighs 12 oz

R value – 4

warmer versions available

easy to inflate and comfortable Available here at REI! Available here on Amazon!

After seeing many reviews and trusting the Big Agnes brand, I want to try this Big Agnes AXL air pad. The insulation value is lower than my backpack mattress, but in warmer temperatures it seems to be much appreciated for its comfort.

And I stumbled upon this roll-up memory foam mattress and thought it looked great…as long as it’s actually waterproof and there’s room in the vehicle and tent.

Or (my preferred choice) just a regular air mattress if you’re car camping and have space in the tent!

Top Rated Camping Air Mattress: Durable, Puncture Proof

Top rated reviews

Comes with an air pump

Anti-slip floor (handy in a tent) Available online here!

2. You must have a pillow and comfortable bedding

The best camping pillows:

If you’re car camping, I would suggest just bringing your favorite pillow from home. You will appreciate the comfort and the space will be worth it.

If you are hiking in your gear or space is very limited, you can opt for a camping pillow instead. The two main types are compact small pillows or inflatable.

Here’s a great guide to the best backcountry camping pillows.

A few pillow tips from experience: Here, too, the pillows from home are best

If you choose a compact camping pillow, be sure to clean and store it properly, as sleeping on something that smells of mold isn’t comfortable

In a pinch, you can tuck your clothes into a pillowcase and turn it into an instant (probably lumpy) pillow

Try sleeping on your pillow at home first to see how it feels

Listen to the noise your pillow makes against your ears – will it bother you or wake you up? Super Camper Tip: If you’re camping in cool weather and have a jacket with you, you can fold it up into a pillow. Fluffy down jackets would be great for this! Check out the video below and I’ll show you how to turn your puffy into a super comfy pillow!

Comfortable tent bedding tips:

Just like my suggestion that you bring your pillow from home, for the linens my first preference is to use regular linens!

But sleeping bags seem to be the standard when it comes to camping bedding.

Is it getting too hot for sleeping bags? Do small children have to sleep comfortably with an adult and can that happen in a sleeping bag? Are your sleeping bags warm enough? In cold weather, I like to put a sheet in my sleeping bags. I also prefer to sleep in a sleeping bag liner or with a sheet because I really don’t like the slippery material of my sleeping bag on my skin!

If the weather is warm enough, it might be better to use sheets and quilts if you need warmth throughout the night.

If you are handy with a sewing machine, making a double sheet into a one person sleeping bag is a good idea for warm/hot weather camping. Simply fold the double sheet in half and sew two-thirds of the way around, leaving the top and bottom open. This sheet sack will keep you comfy but won’t get overly hot. And if it cools down overnight, you can add a blanket or quilt for extra warmth.

Some camping bed tips:

If possible, use sheets and blankets like you would at home. They’re less cramped and will feel familiar or get a special camping quilt set

Don’t bring anything that takes a long time to dry (in case of moisture, unexpected leaks, or minor accidents).

If you’re car camping and have space, it doesn’t hurt to bring an extra blanket or three just in case

We try to make ourselves comfortable in our tent with the kids and all our belongings

If you must use a sleeping bag, make sure you choose one suitable for the temperatures. And if you like to sleep on your side with your legs drawn up, make sure you have space in your sleeping bag to do so.

I like the new camping sleep system that Big Agnes has. Their sleeping bags have sleeves that the camping mattress slides into. This keeps the sleeping bag in place, so as you toss and turn through the night your sleeping bag stays in place and you don’t wake up tied up with your mummy hood on your face and the zip tucked under your back!

Big Agnes sleep systems are definitely more expensive than your regular camp gear, but in terms of your comfort, I wish I had gotten one of these!

3. You probably sleep on the ground when camping…

And the ground is usually uneven, lumpy, and inherently uncomfortable.

So, in order to have a more comfortable night’s sleep, you need to make sure that the floor you sleep on is level and free of lumps, rocks and the like.

Even if you use a mattress or sleeping pad, make sure that you first choose a location that is as flat as possible. If this is not possible, orient your sleep so that your head is higher than your feet.

Read this post for more tips on choosing the best campsite.

You should also make sure you clear the immediate area of ​​any large and tricky rocks and branches. This not only protects the floor material of your tent, but also prevents you from feeling lumps when you put it down.

4. The temperature

I envy you if you’re lucky enough to camp somewhere with mild daytime temperatures and warm nighttime temperatures. If that’s the case, you can probably skip this section!

But if you’re camping like me, where the temperature can drop to near freezing, then you’ll understand how important warmth can be to your sleep.

Nothing will stop you from sleeping like cold feet or a cold you just can’t shake.

So the best remedy here is to prevent this from happening in the first place.

The simple steps to staying warm when sleeping in a tent: Make sure your sleeping mattress is insulated. An R-value above 3 is good, above 4 is even better. The better camping mattress both reflects your body heat back to you and provides an insulating layer against the cold ground. Use a well-fitting mummy sleeping bag that is rated for freezing temperatures. Wear the mummy sleep hood around your head and wear a hood if necessary. Wearing thin gloves can help if your fingers get cold at night. Be sure to change out of your day clothes and into dry (preferably moisture-wicking) clothes for sleeping Don’t overdress in your sleeping bag. You don’t want to sweat. Use a hot water bottle at your feet or some activated “hot hands” to keep the bottom of your sleeping bag warm and toasty. Would you like to read more details and tips: You can visit this post entirely dedicated to discuss how to keep warm while sleeping in a tent here!

Tips for cooler nights and air mattresses: Normal air mattresses do not insulate or reflect heat. These are a few things I’ve done to stay warm while staying comfortable:

Place thin foamies, foam squares, or very thick wool blankets under your air mattress on the floor of the tent

Cover your air mattress with thick wool blankets, then cover with a fitted sheet to keep that insulating layer in place

I’ve even put thin insulating camping mattresses on top of my airbed and under a fitted sheet when I’ve been camping and the temperature unexpectedly drops. (This can be a little less comfortable, but better than being on the floor I find)

Now, if you sleep in a warm/hot climate, you will worry about being cool and comfortable at night. Consider forgoing sleeping bags and just using a sheet bag or warm-weather sleeping bag like this one. Be sure to air your tent as much as possible, or even sleep outside if you’re up for it.

5. Light and sound distractions

Ear plugs and eye masks!

Yes, it’s that simple.

If you think you would benefit from earplugs I would suggest that you simply pick up what is recommended at your local pharmacy. I even find that the muffle of my hood is sometimes enough to muffle outside noise.

As for an eye mask, you want to make sure the mask is comfortable enough that it won’t bother you while you sleep. You can get these in a variety of materials and styles… happy browsing for a super cute one!

I would suggest you take a look at Etsy and support a small artisan if you buy one.

6. Can you relax?

When I usually sleep in a tent, it’s because I spent the day hiking. And if that’s the case, I get to bedtime, I’m usually tired enough to fall asleep.

But what if you just lie in the tent and stare at the roof?

Are you someone who meditates or does yoga? Maybe you can practice deep breathing at home to help you when you’re in the tent?

I think a good strategy is to organize your bedtime like you do at home:

If you tend to read before bed, bring a book

If you like taking a bath before bed, perhaps you could take a hot shower (if that luxury is available at your campsite).

a cup of tea or a glass of wine?

If you like watching a show before bed, make sure you download something to your phone and have enough battery power to watch

Mom Camping Tip: To help my kids fall asleep in the tent (and help them ignore the weird noises outside), I often played them an audio book. I prefer to choose classic literature to lull them to sleep, or if they’re too interested they might fight sleep to listen to the story!

When camping with your kids, making sure your little ones fall asleep is probably one of the biggest factors in whether you can relax enough to fall asleep yourself.

I’ll be honest it doesn’t seem to matter how comfortable I feel at night. When I sleep in a tent with my children, I often wake up to all the noises. I check their blankets, feel how cool or warm they are, straighten them if they’ve slipped out of their sacks or slipped off their pads, lull them back to sleep when they wake up, and so on and so on until Morning …

So the more comfortable I can make everyone in the tent, the better my sleep will usually be.

This is me in the tent (in the middle of the night), lying awake for hours… trying to convince myself I’m warm and comfortable… while she sleeps blissfully next to me!

7. Finally, try to eliminate all things that bother you… like bugs… and pee trips

Have you ever woken up in the middle of the night to hear a mosquito in your ear? Then you just lie there and listen to it seek the best landing…while trying to cover any exposed skin or unsuccessfully smack you in the face every time you think it’s landed.

Or maybe you woke up and realized you need to pee… you roll over and hope the feeling goes away. Maybe you can ignore it and go back to sleep? But really, instead you just lie there and think about not thinking about having to pee?

I’m sure there are tons of other annoyances that can keep us from getting a good night’s sleep. But those are the two biggest ones that bother me!

I like to take a few minutes before bed to get rid of any mosquitoes that have made their way into the tent. I also try not to drink any water in the evening, hoping not to be woken up and having to leave the comfortably warm tent. Sometimes that works, most of the time it doesn’t.

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A few more tips for “sleeping comfortably in a tent”:

Space: Make sure you have enough space in your tent for yourself, everything that needs to be accommodated in the tent and your sleeping place – without anything touching the sides. If you’re worried about rolling into people or onto your sides, you’ll sleep less well.

The groundsheet: (I find this helps me “feel” more comfortable in the tent, but it doesn’t really affect my sleeping comfort.) When we camp in the car, I like to lay thick blankets or rugs on the bare, unused groundsheet , especially in the door area. Maybe it feels more comfortable? Maybe my feet and hands and buttocks are a little warmer when moving? Either way, I prefer something downstairs in the tent.

A blanket below also makes it easier to keep the tent cleaner as the blanket or carpet can be lifted and shaken out.

Your Tent: Make sure you choose a tent that suits your needs. Your choice has a big impact on how warm or cool the inside of the tent will be.

This post will help you understand all the different tent options and possibilities and can help you buy the best tent for your family.

Humidity: you want to be dry! Here’s another post worth reading (How to Stay Dry When Camping and Camping) because trust me, if you want to sleep comfortably in a tent, you want that tent to be dry!

And the most important tip for a good night’s sleep?

Exercise: Yes, I suggest that one of the most important factors in knowing whether or not you will sleep comfortably in your tent is to try it first!

Would you rather find your camping mattress extremely uncomfortable at 3am in your backyard (or on your living room floor)…where you can just quit and go to your bedroom…or at 3am at the campsite on the first night of a five day trip Trip?

It will be much easier to play around with your sleep setup at home before the trip. Try your sleeping bag, mattresses, different pillows, different clothes and bedding. Maybe practice sleeping with earplugs or an eye mask if you want to try those.

Then when you have your setup as good as it can be then it’s time to try it out at the campsite!

Much luck! And if you know another special secret tip for the most comfortable way to sleep in a tent, please let me know in the comments below!

happy camping,

The weather forecast looks a bit drizzly for your upcoming camping trip? Fear not, rainy camping is no problem if you have insider tricks and tips to impress other campers. We’ve put together a comprehensive list of ways to make life easier when camping in the rain.

1. Prepare and check everything

Make sure your unit (tent, caravan, etc.) is waterproof. When you buy your first tent, a covered porch is really handy for storing wet items.

2. Stay grounded

Pack an extra groundsheet when camping your tent for extra protection, one for under your tent and one for the ground inside.

3. Let it air out

Your camping unit must be adequately ventilated to avoid condensation. The smallest amount can result in a damp tent and a cold night.

4. Keep it airy

Open up your vents, it might seem like the opposite of what you should do on a rainy day, but you need to let the fresh air circulate.

5. Keep an eye on the weather

If you want it to take a turn in the middle of your stay, you’ll need to pack for different conditions. There’s nothing worse than being far from home and unprepared!

6. Wrap it up

Bring plastic bags of all shapes and sizes to protect items from getting wet and to store wet shoes and clothes.

7. Stay dry when setting up

If you pitch a tent in the rain, you’ll be pretty unhappy if the inside and your belongings get wet in the process. See if the rain stops, you may be able to wait half an hour for the downpour to stop. If you have to pitch up in the rain, try to keep your things in a sheltered place or in the car.

8. Dry your quarantine tent

Don’t let anything wet get into your living areas.

9. Take off shoes

Make sure everyone in your group takes shoes that can be easily put on and taken off and left in your porch or awning. This prevents wet footprints in your living area.

10. Pack your rain gear

A waterproof jacket and pants are great when the weather is lousy. You can go outside without getting your clothes wet. Waterproof clothing can also be used as an extra layer on cold nights when you want to pack light.

11. Pack plenty of spare socks

Cold, wet feet are the worst. Pack plenty of extra pairs and make sure you keep a dry pair to only wear in the tent.

12. Choose carefully where to pitch your tent

You want to stay away from large bodies of water, muddy puddles, ditches, etc.

13. Pitch your tent correctly

Position the door of your tent so that it faces against the wind. When you open your door, you get less windswept rain in!

14. Try to get a parking space near the restrooms

You don’t want to hike to the facilities when it’s wet.

15. Stop and enjoy the view

Rain does wonderful things with the forest, have your camera ready.

16. Quick drying towels

Google them, thank us later.

17. Pets

In wet weather, it can be difficult to bring furry companions with you on your camping adventures. You tend not to pay attention to keeping the inside of your device dry.

18. Tent Tension

Make sure your tent is tensioned enough to prevent water from pooling on your flysheet.

19. Don’t touch the sides of your tent

Keep everything off the walls, including sleeping bags, or you’ll end up with a soaked tent.

20. Take extra blankets with you

Use them to keep warm or to layer under your sleeping mats as insulation.

21. Don’t pack your down sleeping bags

These are useless when wet, use synthetic alternatives in wet weather.

22. Don’t pack cotton clothes

They take a long time to dry and leave you wet and cold longer than synthetic alternatives.

23. Cook outside, eat inside

Don’t cook in your tent no matter how much rain falls. Windshields can be purchased to protect gas stoves. You can eat inside, but please never cook inside.Unsure what food to take with you on your trip? Be sure to read our list of essential camping foods

24. Be careful on forest roads

Rocks can be slippery, fords can form and rivers flow with rapid undercurrents. If the weather is really bad, a day at the campsite with a game of cards and a good book can be a good choice. Check out our favorite forest walks

25. Rain is not the end of a journey

It can be the beginning of an adventure. Camping in the rain is a skill, learning how to stay dry and carrying on as usual will make inexperienced campers jealous. Look back to the times you sat in a cold, wet tent and share your rainy-day wisdom with fellow campers.

26. Remember to dry wet items

Including your tent before packing it up for the next trip.

Continue to learn how to make your own DIY tent footprint.

If you’ve already read our in-depth guide to choosing a tent and found your perfect backcountry structure, you might be wondering if you need a footprint for your tent.

Or if your tent came with one, should you really take it with you on your next trip?

Tent footprints, often called groundsheets, can be a point of contention among backpackers and campers alike.

But is a tent footprint worth it? Do you really need a pitch for your tent?

The simple answer is yes. Also, the other simple answer is no.

Read on to learn everything you need to know about footprints and groundsheets. Let us help you decide if a tent footprint is worth it for you.

Before you buy a tent or groundsheet, use our Deal Finder to search over 40 outdoor gear websites for deals.

A ground sheet (or groundsheet) is a lightweight sheet roughly the shape of the outline of your tent floor that lies beneath your tent and forms a barrier or additional layer between your tent floor and the ground.

These are often additional or optional pieces of equipment. However, tent manufacturers are increasingly including groundsheets in the price of their tents.

Footprints are often made from the same material as your tent, but from a thicker thread – referred to as higher “denier”.

Although the floor of your tent is made of extremely durable nylon or polyester, it will take a lot of wear and tear.

Some terrain will wear down your tent floor much quicker than others. Exposed granite and sandstone can act like sandpaper on the floor of your tent; may wear thin spots or holes fairly quickly.

Oftentimes, small sharp rocks and twigs will cause small holes in your soil as well.

Quality tents are designed to work well even without a groundsheet. However, once holes start to show, your tent’s ability to keep you dry and warm becomes progressively compromised.

A footprint can be worthwhile here.

A footprint acts as a protective layer against these abrasions, adding a barrier between you and the sometimes cold or damp ground.

Tent footprints can significantly extend the life of your tent. Considering that a backpacking tent can cost $300 or more, a footprint of $40-50 or less might just be worth it.

If you let your tent floor wear out, you can also use a tarp or bivy bag.

When the footprint wears out, it can be replaced at a much cheaper price compared to your tent.

As an added bonus, tent prints are useful for many other purposes.

As we discussed in another article, tent footprints, as well as old rain flies, can be used in a number of useful ways:

Groundsheets for bivouacking or when you just don’t feel like pitching the tent.

They make excellent tarpaulins for sorting gear

Perfect rope tarps for the crag

for the rock Picnic blankets in a comfortable size

Additional rain protection

Additional thermal insulation layer/windscreen

Can be looted to mend other gear like tents and backpacks

Your tent may come with a footprint, but most tents have an adapted footprint that is available for purchase.

Like tents, footprints are made from either nylon or polyester. In a previous article we talked about the properties of nylon compared to polyester.

For the most part, nylon is a stronger material, more stretchy, and less water-resistant. Polyester is less stretchy, much more water-repellent and better able to withstand UV damage, but is slightly heavier and less abrasion-resistant than nylon.

Considering the purpose of your footprints is to protect you and your tent from moisture and abrasion, most would find a polyester groundsheet to be a better option (disregarding the weight).

denier

Similar to tent material, the Footprint product specifications list the “denier” of the fabric (denier is not as critical in double skin tents as the inner tent is protected by the rain fly).

Denier is a measure of thread strength. In the case of tent footprints, think of denier as a “stability” factor. The higher the denier, the stronger the product becomes.

The purpose of your footprints is to be a protective shield, so (all things being equal) you should get a higher denier fabric when available.

denier by numbers

For example, the universal footprint for the MSR Hubba Hubba NX is $45 from Backcountry. It weighs 7.0 ounces and is made of 68 denier polyester.

The footprint for the Nemo Hornet weighs 6.9 ounces, is made of 75 denier nylon, and retails for $49.

For reference, the bottom material of the Hubba Hubba is 30 denier nylon and the top micromesh is 15 denier.

Nylon is lighter than polyester. While the Nemo Footprint is denier, the overall weight is still lighter than the Hubba Hubba Footprint.

This is a situation where polyester doesn’t always mean more durability.

All to answer the question, “Is a footprint worth it?”

Considering they are ultra light, cheap and extremely adaptable; a tent footprint is definitely worth it.

Let’s say you’re convinced you’re searching online for the best pitch for your tent.

There is one more consideration to take into account that could save you a decent amount of money.

Though fairly important, tent prints are simple things. what are they anyway A sheet under your tent. Do you really have to spend 40-50€ for this?

The answer is a clear no.

There are a few alternatives to the manufacturer-supplied footprints that perform better, are more versatile, and save you money.

Before we dive into the DIY options, it’s important to know how to size the footprint of your DIY tent.

Footprints should be cut about 1-2 inches smaller than the actual outline of your tent on all sides.

The reason for this is puddling. If a footprint extends beyond the edge of the tent, it can act as a moisture trap.

In a rainstorm this will cause water to pool and run between the footprint and your tent floor. This potentially allows more water to enter the main tent than if the footprint weren’t there at all.

Remember to cut your footprint smaller than your actual tent outline.

Painter Tarps

The heaviest option here, a simple clear plastic painter’s tarp, can be purchased at any hardware store. You will receive a lot of material that you can cut to any dimensions.

Advantages:

Inexpensive

Adjust the size

Absolutely waterproof

Disadvantages:

Very difficult

Bulky

Best for:

Autocamping or walk-in campsites

Big tents

When weight doesn’t matter

Polycro

Available from Gossamer Gear or Six Moon Designs, Polycro is the lightest of all ultralight plastics.

Polycro is clear, it looks like a plastic painter’s tarp, only much thinner.

Polycro has an extremely high strength-to-weight ratio, meaning it’s puncture and abrasion resistant as well as waterproof for such a thin layer.

A standard Polycro sheet, 96″x48″, weighs a virtually invisible 1.6 ounces (45 grams).

Advantages:

Waterproof

Extremely light

Continuous

Clear

Disadvantages:

Expensive

More fragile than other options

Best for:

Ultra light backpack

Tyvek

You know that stuff that looks like white paper they wrap houses in during construction? The stuff is nearly indestructible, it’s cheap, it’s waterproof, and it’s pretty light, too.

Tyvek has a high robustness factor. Compared to the other options, it is much more puncture resistant. Tyvek is also waterproof.

It can be a little bulky to pack, but is light enough that you can simply roll it up and clip it to the top of your pack or to one of the outside straps.

You can find scrap lying around at job sites, or you can buy a 3’x165′ roll at a hardware store for $66 (~$2.5/foot). Some stores will also cut you a piece to the desired length.

If you just want one piece of groundsheet size, Six Moon Designs also sells Tyvek groundsheets.

Compared to Polycro, an 84″ x 84″ piece of Tyvek weighs 6.5 ounces (184 grams). Still very light, just not the lightest.

Advantages:

Inexpensive

Indestructible

Waterproof

Disadvantages:

Heavier than Polycro

A bit bulky

Best for:

Any backpacking or camping situation where weight is not a priority.

summary

What is a tent footprint? A footprint is a groundsheet that conforms to your tent outline and acts as a barrier between your tent floor and the ground. What is a footprint used for? A footprint protects the floor of your tent from wear and tear. It acts as a barrier between your tent and the ground, preventing moisture and cold from entering your tent. Do you really need a tent footprint backpack? You don’t need a footprint for backpacking. However, a footprint increases the longevity of your tent, prevents moisture and cold from entering your tent, and is relatively lightweight. On a backpacking or camping trip, footprints can be used for a variety of other purposes including rain tarps, gear sorting stations, windbreaks, picnic blankets and more. What is the best footprint for DIY tents? Tyvek and Polycro are two affordable and lightweight options for creating your own footprints. Tyvek is more durable and cheaper, while Polycro is much lighter but more expensive and fragile than Tyvek. Both options are waterproof.

So is a tent footprint worth it? We think so.

“You are crazy.”

“That sounds like ZERO fun.”

These are just some of the questions you might ask when letting your friends know you’re planning a winter camping adventure.

It’s no secret that winter camping can be challenging. But there is an aura surrounding the experience that draws us back again and again. You may have seen some images on Instagram of sparkling snow falling over a cozy, warmly lit tent; Maybe you’ve been to an REI workshop, tested an all-season tent and felt inspired; Perhaps you love skiing and spent years staring at that distant peak and wondering how to get there without a helicopter, until you realized that given enough time, your own two feet can take you to the land promised by winter.

I’m not here to answer why; and I will certainly make no guarantees of fun. I know I love it, some hate it – it’s all in your attitude. What I can do is outline and address the challenges you face and provide you with some strategies for dealing with those situations that I hope will make your winter camping experience more enjoyable and safer.

Challenge #1 Moisture Management

It’s a constant struggle. Unfortunately, there is no way to make moisture problems in the mountains go away, especially in winter. With a few tricks, however, this can be managed:

Layer your outerwear

As you move through the mountains (or even flat terrain) you will generate heat. While you might start out in a baggy down jacket, it’s very likely that within five or 10 minutes you’ll want to ditch all but a base layer and flimsy gloves. Please do this. If you let your other layers (especially down) absorb sweat, they won’t do their job when you want to take a break and pack back in.

If you notice layers starting to get damp before you take them off, don’t stuff them in your backpack where the condensation will marinate. Tie them around your waist, somewhere out where the breeze and sun can dry them. You will surely feel cold – it’s winter! – but cold is better than damp in this situation.

Air your tent

Ensure ventilation! Many people think that winter camping means they should close the hatches once inside. This is how your tent becomes a sauna. A very, very cold, damp sauna. Even when it’s snowing or the temperature has dropped below zero, I leave a few vents open. Zipping the vestibule while leaving your tent door partially open greatly increases airflow while still protecting you from the wind and the elements.

Many all-season tents, like NEMO’s Tenshi 2P, are equipped with a condensation curtain. It might seem cumbersome or cumbersome at first, but setting it up before you go to sleep will protect most of your tent from moisture while you sleep. There is no way to completely eliminate condensation, but this will make a big difference and help contain it.

Use your available heat source

There’s a great source of heat you can’t go anywhere without – yourself! Specifically, I’m talking about the foot of your sleeping bag. It’s the best heater/dryer combo in the backcountry. It’s so effective that frequent winter campers and mountain climbers sometimes even buy extra long sleeping bags so they can throw their socks, fleece, ski boot liners, gloves – all that gear – down there and your 98.6 degree oven wicks away the moisture and can warm up for the next day. Just don’t put anything really wet there. Moist, not dripping.

Challenge #2: The Exception to Challenge #1 – Drink Plenty of Water

You won’t feel thirsty early on. It’s cold and the moment you stop moving you’re getting colder by the second (See Challenge #1). However, it is imperative that you hydrate. Mountain air is typically naturally dry.

The number of days I’ve woken up damp with condensation but feeling parched and cracked at the corners of my fingers is more than I can count. Luckily you are surrounded by water. Unfortunately, you have to work for it.

Melting snow into water over a stove is a laborious but necessary evil. You need it for drinking, cooking, and cleaning… in that order. My advice: do it whenever you feel like having the time – fill another bottle, another half bottle, every little bit counts. That way, when you’re really thirsty or hungry, or about to go to bed, you don’t sit around the stove for an extra 10 minutes and take care of something that could have been done earlier.

Two tips to speed up the process:

Add a little water to the pot you are melting the snow in. Snow is a great insulator and packed in a pot takes a long time to melt; Adding water at the beginning speeds up the process significantly.

Remember that big stove you have at the bottom of your sleeping bag? Fill up another bottle with a mixture of snow and water right before bed. Make sure it’s capped tight and stuff it in there – you’ll have all the water by morning.

Challenge 3: The sun is a double-edged sword

On the one hand, a sunny day in the mountains will dry your clothes, skins, and tent better than any of the tricks I mentioned above. You’ll feel warm and alert and ready for the day ahead. There’s no substitute for hanging your damp items from a line or draping them over your tent for an hour or two while you let the warm rays warm your hands and face.

However, don’t get too excited to get a tan. By all means, enjoy the sun and the warmth, but watch your exposure—treat the sun reflecting off the snow the same way you would a day at the beach. Use sunscreen (most climbers prefer something with zinc oxide) and protect your eyes – snow blindness is a common problem for the unprepared that can be prevented as easily as sticking tape “blinders” to the sides of your regular hiking sunglasses.

But the rewards will move you

Winter camping isn’t as easy as pitching a tent under the stars on a warm summer night. You’ll encounter a more intense version of many of the same situations you would encounter camping in any other season, as well as a range of challenges unique to winter camping and mountaineering.

However, after battling the cold and the elements, you’ll find that amidst the challenges there are unique rewards – the quiet stillness of freshly fallen snow, the solitude in places crowded in summer, the warmth and comfort of one temporary accommodation. These are the moments we seek, the moments to connect with ourselves and our friends that we rely on.

I myself come back with a renewed sense of gratitude every time I go to winter camp. The feeling of that first hot shower upon returning, a slight shiver as you gaze at the snowfall behind your windows, a rising gratitude for all the little comforts we take for granted – and that alone is what keeps me cold coming back to the hotel every year .

Matt Tufts is a Vermonter exploring west from his truck with a true passion for being outdoors, living simply and sharing good stories.

Winter camping may look fascinating in depictions and illustrations, but in reality it has its own buzz. One of them is the need to wash and clean despite the low temperatures.

After just a few days of camping you only feel dirt and earth on your body. Finding little stalks and leaves in your hair, and worse, smelling of smoke all night, with muddy feet and greasy hands from cooking.

I was there.

So if you have the guts to make it without a shower, kudos to you!

And unless you have superpowers, you can’t shower with cold water when it’s freezing outside.

So how do you shower while camping in winter? To shower in winter, you need a way to heat the water and have it flow from above. You can boil water on flames and take a gravity shower with any bottle or container. When it’s sunny outside, you can use a solar camping shower. Propane tank showers are also popular with campers.

But that’s not it. Showering when it’s too cold outside can sometimes be difficult and dangerous. Not only can it make you sick, it can be deadly in extreme scenarios.

Let’s find out the best way to take a shower while winter camping.

Challenges of the common cold in the wild

Why is it so difficult to show off when camping in the cold? In summer you can dip into any flowing creek and treat yourself to a nice and refreshing swim, but in winter that’s not an option for most.

Extreme Cold and Hypothermia: Hypothermia is a condition in which body temperature drops to extreme levels to cause cardiac arrest and respiratory failure. If you also take a shower with cold water while cold camping in the windy outdoors, you run the risk of hypothermia.

No Running Water: Running water is plentiful in warm summers, but if you’re camping in the north during winter, running water may be hard to find. Your next best option is to melt snow (if the area isn’t completely dry).

Lack of Privacy: It’s not advisable to shower in your clothes during the cold, breezy outdoor winters. The wet towels can retain water and cause extreme hypothermia by increasing heat loss from the body. For this reason, if you want to take a shower, you have to do it completely naked, which compromises the privacy of sensitive people.

Heat up cold water: It’s freezing outside and you can’t shower with water jets. You must first warm it to a normal or warm temperature. That requires some kind of heating arrangement.

Regaining body temperature after a shower: Getting a cold shower is half the battle. Half the part is getting your body temperature back, unless you’re planning on dying shivering.

With these challenges in mind, let’s discuss how to take a shower when cold camping in winter.

#1 Get a shower tent

First things first, shower tents!

These tents are in most cases quite non-binding. It depends on the type of shower you use, the amount of privacy you like, the number of people you are camping with and the campsite.

Most people don’t use shower tents because they think it will add weight and make them spend a few bucks more.

I would suggest a shower tent because it gets very cold when showering in the wilderness. At times, temperatures drop below the comfortable range. and because of the low temperature, you are more prone to fever, flu, and nausea.

Shower tents not only provide privacy, but also restrict airflow, and because of the insulation, you’re less likely to get cold and it provides a more comfortable environment for bathing.

#2 Find a suitable place to bathe

This is for those times when you don’t have a shower tent or prefer not to buy one and choose to shower in the wild.

Again, privacy isn’t the only reason you need a proper site.

First, let’s talk about why you need one?

In winter, campers are often vulnerable to conditions like hypothermia, which can be more dangerous when camping alone.

As discussed above, hypothermia is a medical condition in which your body temperature falls below normal body temperature, which is 37 degrees Fahrenheit. This lowers your heart rate and can cause symptoms such as confusion and convulsions. If not treated promptly, it can also lead to death.

The right place to bathe is the one that gives you good sun exposure or at least some warmth and limited wind flow.

Sunlight keeps your body warm and helps you dry quickly, while restricted airflow avoids excessive loss of body heat.

Such suitable bathing places can be found between rocks or a small place well surrounded by tall trees.

#3 Find a shower that suits you best

Several shower systems have been invented and used around the world for long camping trips.

You will find solar energy showers, gas and battery showers and tanks. Some campers even opt for handcrafted showers and sponge baths. It all depends on how you like it and what you find comfortable.

Here are some popular options to choose from.

Propane heated shower

Propane heated showers are my personal favorite option and I have several reasons for that.

This compact, portable and easy-to-use device will make you feel like you’ve never left home. It essentially uses propane gas to heat the stored water to a controlled temperature. Most campers carry propane with them for cooking and heating during winter camping and it can also be used to power those water heaters.

The heating temperature can be as low as 114.8℉ or less depending on your comfort. To use this you will need to find a running water hose or you can use a suitable water pump powered via your car or RV.

This option has two disadvantages. 1- It adds extra weight to your backpack. 2- these heaters are not cheap. Check out this one from Camplex. It’s fairly affordable (compared to others) and does the job pretty well.

This option is ideal for people who don’t mind packing heavy or camping out of their car or RV. For light campers we need to look for something more traditional.

Solar Energy Showers

Solar powered showers aren’t great, but can work if you’re camping in a cold but sunny location.

Solar showers are much cheaper than electric or gas showers, but they are highly dependent on the amount of sunlight they receive.

It’s nothing fancy, just a dark poly bag that you can hang out in the sun for about an hour and it will warm the water inside to a tolerable temperature.

The dark/black bag absorbs heat to increase the temperature of the stored water. All you need is to hang the device on a higher spot or in a shower tent and take a warm bath.

Coleman’s solar showers are the most efficient solar showers that have good storage capacity with an easy to use hose and shower system.

Do-it-yourself gravity showers

Gravity showers are super easy and simple, making them hard requires a few of your efforts.

All you need is a water container/bottle with the capacity you need for showering. Then use a needle or sharp object to poke a few tiny holes in the cap or bottom of the container. The location where you make the holes will depend on how you mount your bin. Mount the bottle or container at a higher point and allow the water to flow by gravity.

For hot showers, you must first heat the water in a saucepan or vessel over a gas or wood flame and pour into the vessel.

The downside is usually restricted water flow due to the uneven holes, but it’s the best and cheapest alternative to an expensive portable shower.

#4 tips for effective showering in cold weather

Conserving water: Unless you have a running water stream (which is unlikely in the winter), water is your most prized possession. When you shower, watch out for every drop of it. If you use an overhead shower, you can turn it on only when needed to maximize water usage.

Use unscented national soap: when you are in nature, care for it as it cares for you. Use organic, eco-friendly soap to avoid environmental damage. Chemicals in regular soaps are often harmful to plants and other life forms. Also, use unscented soaps to avoid attracting insects.

Keep Dry Clothes Close: Immediately after showering, you need a dry towel to wick water from your body and warm, dry clothes to reclaim your body heat. Therefore, before showering, make sure your towel and dry clothes are at arm’s length.

Regain Body Heat: After you have showered and changed into dry clothes, lie under a warm blanket or blanket to regain normal body temperature as quickly as possible. You can also sit near a wood fire to warm up. When winter camping, make sure you insulate your tent so they’re comfortable inside after a cold shower. (Read our article on ways to insulate your tent for winter camping.)

What are some of the best alternatives to camp showering in cold weather?

In fact, this is the most frequently asked question about winter camping.

Campers usually avoid showering in the wild when the trip is short, as many campers don’t have the courage to shower in such low temperatures, nor do they have the right equipment to warm up the water.

Here are some alternatives to avoid a freezing winter shower.

sponge bath

We all know about sponge baths but didn’t really think it would work outside of hospitals did we? A sponge bath doesn’t require you to be completely nude and can be a good option. You also feel fresh and better.

All you need is a soft sponge and a pot of warm water to feel like new again.

wet wipes and dry shampoo

Damp cleaning can provide a feeling of freshness.

If you can, wash your hands and footparts to remove dirt and use baby wipes to clean your body and use dry shampoo on your hair and you’re good to go.

swimming in the lake

This is not very suitable for winter camping but can be really refreshing and energizing in light winters.

Just be sure to dry off and put on warm clothes once you get out of the lake to avoid hypothermia.

Conclusion

Going camping when it’s literally freezing outside is a brave thing indeed. And the thought of taking a shower can literally give anyone goosebumps

So if you don’t know how to do it without putting your life in danger, it can be difficult.

The only tip is not to try to be bold and give your body the warmth it needs and only shower when necessary. Because no one wants to get sick miles from home in the middle of nowhere.

Recommended Camping Gear: I’ve compiled a list of my favorite camping gear in one place. The selection is based on my own personal experience camping with them over many years as well as feedback from other campers. Check them out on my Recommended Camping Gear page

If you’re new to camping or haven’t camped in a while, there might be a few things you’re wondering about as you plan your next camping adventure. You will surely be considering what to put under your camping tent or whether you even need a groundsheet or tarpaulin.

Setting up camp is an essential part of the camping experience and since the camping tent is your shelter for your wilderness trip, setting up and staking your tent properly is key to your comfort. Every tent is a little different and your setup has a lot to do with your camping gear, the weather and the location of your campsite. Some forego using a ground cover, but this is not recommended.

Whichever ground cover you choose, make sure you pitch your tent on high ground. Scan the campsite and select the area that is higher than the rest.

TripSavvy

How to set up your ground coverage

Putting some form of ground covering or tarpaulin under your tent is essential to the durability of your tent and to keeping it warm and dry. Different terrains require different solutions for your tent and ground cover. There are a few important things to consider when pitching your tent and deciding what type of ground cover to use.

Put a tarp under your tent in woods and fields, but be sure to fold it so it doesn’t overhang the edge of the tent. If the tarpaulin extends too far, even dew will run down the tent walls and collect under your tent.

When camping on the beach, put a tarp inside the tent rather than under the tent. Sand camping is very different and in heavy rain water will seep into your tent if it doesn’t float if you put a tarp under the tent. Unless you are on a sandy campsite in a low spot, a tarp under the tent is not necessary as water quickly seeps into the sand.

A third way to place a tarpaulin is to put it over the tent and possibly in combination with an inner and/or sub-tarpaulin. Also, think about the wind, as wind makes it harder to hold a tarp over a tent and also sometimes blows rain sideways, possibly through the side seams of your tent. So place your tarps for maximum protection.

About waterproofing

Tent walls should breathe and are not waterproof, only water-repellent. Both fly and floor should be covered with waterproof protection when purchased. Be sure to use seam sealer on all seams of new tents, and about every year before the first camping trip of the season.

Ground Cover Options

Some tents offer the option to purchase a pitch. However, these pitches can be expensive as they are designed for the specific tent and provide the most suitable option. If you can afford it, it’s a good option. Then use your tarp for extra protection over the tent or around camp when the weather takes a turn.

Whichever option you choose, always use a ground cover under your tent. This will prevent moisture from seeping through your tent and getting your gear wet, protecting the life of your tent. Abrasive ground wears down the floor of any tent, no matter how tough it is, so a ground cover or tarpaulin protects the tent.

As an indoor grower, trying to control relative humidity can sometimes be risky and cause problems.

Experienced indoor growers know that optimal humidity in your grow tent is crucial to successfully growing indoor plants.

If the humidity in your grow tent is too high, how to lower the humidity in the grow tent.

High humidity can lead to slow growth, bud rot, fungal growth, powdery mildew, and mold.

Such factors threaten the survival of your plants, including your chances of high yields.

Your grow tent should not exceed a humidity of 70%.

So if you exceed this level, you need to identify where the moisture is coming from and what can be done to prevent it from harming your plants.

Don’t worry; Maintaining an ideally low humidity level in your grow tent could be solved by the very things found inside your grow tent.

We’ll try to share some simple tips on how to lower the humidity in the grow room without spending a lot of money!

Understand relative humidity

Let’s start with a quick science lesson: Humidity is the water vapor in the air.

The relative humidity, on the other hand, is the ratio of the current absolute humidity to the highest possible absolute humidity.

To put it simply, relative humidity is the air that is completely saturated with water vapor and can no longer hold it.

Remember that there is always water vapor in the air. The air will hold more water vapor when the temperature in your grow tent is higher.

Heat in a grow tent causes water to move faster through the air, resulting in higher humidity.

Why high humidity is bad and causes problems

So you have been told that high humidity is essential to ensure the robust growth and health of your growing plants.

Plants love high humidity.

While this is true, excessive humidity in your grow tent can do more harm than good.

If you do NOT want your grow tent to:

Become the perfect environment for bacteria and mold;

Let your flowering plants suffer from bud rot or botrytis;

Maximize the threat of pests and diseases;

Prevent transpiration or air exchange for your plants;

Promote unwanted microbiological growth;

Unclog stomata and reduce carbon dioxide uptake, which is essential for efficient photosynthesis

Make roots dormant by reducing their natural ability to absorb water;

Slow down your plants’ nutrient uptake;

Minimize your crop yield

Then it’s time to understand how to maintain low humidity levels in a grow tent.

Importance of low humidity in a grow tent

Humidity depends on the growth stage of your plant, but it’s good to know that low humidity levels in your grow tent can do wonders.

High humidity and moisture build-up in a grow tent can cause your flower or bud to rot.

Other problems with high humidity include:

White Mold: Can harass your leaves, preventing them from absorbing water, air, and light.

Rust fungus: causes rust spots on your leaves

Root Rot: Roots begin to rot if the soil is left too wet for too long.

grow tent size

One of the first things to check is the size of your grow tent as you will need to ensure that all relatively low humidity areas are covered.

For example, a 4×4 grow tent requires 40%, while a 5×5 grow tent requires at least 65%.

I can use a home dehumidifier in my 4×4 grow tent, so a compact dehumidifier that can hold 8-10 ounces of moisture daily will work in a 2×2 grow tent.

What is the best growing room temperature?

Temperature varies, but it is necessary to give you an idea of ​​how to control humidity. Make sure you have a thermometer and hygrometer.

Clones or seedlings prefer 74-78 degrees Fahrenheit, while growing plants can thrive at 22 degrees Fahrenheit.

Flowering plants require higher temperatures of 88-75 degrees Fahrenheit than ready-to-harvest plants, which do well at 65-74 degrees Fahrenheit.

What is the best humidity?

Plants thrive in all stages of their life at different humidity levels.

Seedlings or clones require 70% to 75% humidity because plants need time to allow their root systems to develop, requiring them to rely on their leaves for water uptake.

Feeding your baby plants means having lots of moisture in the air.

For this reason, indoor growers use grow trays or humidity domes to build up humidity.

Growing plants need 50% to 70% moisture as they can now absorb water from their roots and leaves.

Flowering plants need 40% to 50% humidity to achieve a comfortable breathing environment.

Harvesting indoors typically requires 45% to 50% humidity to ensure the environment is not too humid.

Humidity is an essential factor when it comes to indoor gardening.

Gardeners need to learn how to fully control humidity, especially how to lower it in grow tents.

As growers, we should be aware of what humidity levels are appropriate for different stages of plant growth and specific plant varieties.

Finally, we should be able to combine different methods of lowering the humidity in a grow tent in order to keep the relative humidity at the recommended level.

Humidity, along with temperature and light, can help growers produce healthy and robust plants with high productivity.

Here you can find out how to reduce the humidity in the grow tent

As I explained earlier, high humidity is essential, but it can also cause damage if levels get exceptionally high.

To help you reduce humidity inside a grow tent, here are tried and true methods that indoor gardeners have used:

1. Avoid overwatering your plants

One of the easiest ways to lower humidity is to protect your plants from overwatering.

Overwatering will result in more water, which could increase the humidity in your grow tent above the appropriate level.

Likewise, moist soil will leave extra water in the seed trays, which could also increase humidity.

2. Use a dehumidifier in your grow tent

You probably know our old friend, the dehumidifier.

If your grow tent is too humid, a dehumidifier can remove excess moisture from the air, lowering the humidity level.

Okay, you’ll probably have to spend more on this because a grow tent usually requires a commercial dehumidifier.

We need to invest in resources to ensure overall plant growth and yields.

If your location is already humid, I recommend using a good quality dehumidifier connected to a drain.

If you live in an area with less humidity, it is advisable to turn off the unit and empty it when it is full.

Your dehumidifier should be able to remove at least the same amount of water that your plants absorb on a daily basis.

Additionally, buying a dehumidifier with at least a one-gallon water tank capacity is great for saving you time by not having to refill it often.

Read more about how to choose the right dehumidifier for your grow tent.

I usually place my dehumidifier in the middle of my grow tent.

Some dehumidifiers have an automatic shut off feature when they are full.

Nonetheless, you can also set a timer and monitor how much water your dehumidifier is collecting.

As a result, both the inlet and outlet of a humidifier are inside your grow tent, which can cause the room to heat up.

3. Check your plant density

Plants naturally release carbon dioxide, which increases the temperature in your grow tent.

This causes moisture to build up and the humidity in the air to rise.

Increasing the number of plants can displace the air in your grow tent and prevent other areas from getting fresh air and carbon dioxide.

Read more about how to determine the ideal number of plants to fit in your grow tent.

Note that if your grow tent does not have proper dehumidification or ventilation, the water vapor emitted by your plants will become trapped.

If removing plants in your grow tent is not an option, consider moving only the plants with large leaves.

4. Remove standing water

Remember when I said you don’t have to spend a lot of money to try and lower the humidity in a grow tent?

Here’s one of the cheapest methods we can use!

As indoor growers, it is our responsibility to ensure our grow tents have proper drainage so standing water doesn’t collect on the floor and add excess moisture.

The problem with standing water is that it causes molecular oxygen to be reduced to the stage where bacteria can form and thrive.

One of our biggest mistakes is leaving water reservoirs open or allowing standing water to puddle on the ground, releasing moisture into the air.

You don’t want your grow tent to become a breeding ground for pests and bacteria.

5. Improve ventilation by adding more fans

I recommend adding more exhaust fans or speeding up the fan rotation in your grow tent to improve ventilation.

Increasing ventilation is the most practical way to increase airflow inside the grow tent.

Whenever possible, use an atmospheric controller with a humidity setting to automatically adjust the fan speed to achieve the desired humidity level.

It could also be as simple as venting a duct fan or opening a window to push moisture out of the grow tent.

I have observed that this option only works to reduce humidity when the intake air has a lower relative humidity than the air in the grow tent.

This ventilation method lowers the humidity as the positive pressure inside creates enough air movement to create a gentle breeze throughout your grow tent.

The bottom line is make sure your exhaust fan is bigger than your intake fan.

I should warn you against relying on oscillating wall fans alone; they cannot ensure air circulation because they can only reduce the temperature on the hood.

Good airflow should come from the wall, top and bottom of a grow tent.

I now suggest buying floor fans to pull air through the canopy and ensure even carbon dioxide distribution.

Ensuring a stable temperature and balanced humidity in your grow tent will result in a successful harvest.

From experience, using a hygrometer controller to power fans is reliable automation.

It increases efficiency instead of using a thermostat or timer.

ThermoPro TP65 Indoor Outdoor Thermometer Digital wireless hygrometer Temperature Humidity… Large backlit touchscreen: 4-inch LCD display has a backlit…

Wireless Temperature and Humidity Monitor: Measures indoor/outdoor…

Maximum and minimum records: All time/24 hour maximum and minimum temperature and humidity…

6. Create air holes

Making wide or narrow holes in your grow tent can regulate airflow.

To reduce humidity, create enlarged holes to ensure more air comes in than comes out.

Be careful not to let in unwanted light.

7. Buy an air conditioner

We all know that the purpose of an air conditioner is to cool the air, thereby reducing humidity.

The device uses compression and gas to extract heat from the air.

The process creates condensation, which also effectively removes moisture from the air.

However, large AC units tend to run in short cycles or short periods, creating an unreliable environment for your equipment.

On the other hand, small AC systems can increase the temperature gradually.

There’s also the problem of frequent fluctuations, which can cause the temperature in your grow tent to skyrocket.

A good air conditioner ensures that hot air is frequently replaced by cold air.

This can also be combined with a fan to maintain a cool environment in your grow tent by reducing water vapour.

Therefore, you need to choose a large enough air conditioner for your grow tent that can extract enough water from the air.

Remember to clean the filters as clogged filters prevent good airflow which then increases humidity.

8. Insulate and seal your grow tent

One of the things that can help you control humidity is making sure your grow tent is properly insulated and sealed.

I use foam insulation to create a thick barrier between the outside environment and my grow tent.

This reduces my concern that external factors pose a threat to my plants.

9. Use attachments wisely

Let me remind you that attachments like grow lights can increase the temperature in your grow tent.

Buy a grow light that doesn’t give off a lot of heat.

KingLED Latest 600W LED Grow Lights with LM301B LEDs and 10x Optical Condenser 2x2ft… HIGH QUALITY LED GROW LIGHT: KingLED grow light has the latest…

FULL SPECTRUM LED GROW LIGHT: The proportion of the spectrum has been…

COST EFFICIENT LED GROW LIGHT: Unlike the conventional HPS, …

If your grow tent has a warm environment, turn off the lights to achieve a temperature drop.

Leaving your lights dormant can also save on electricity bills.

10. Use absorbent soil

As indoor growers, we need to be familiar with the different soil types that are suitable for our plants.

The key to reducing humidity in a grow tent is using soil that can hold water underneath.

I suggest using sandy soil to minimize evaporation rates and the amount of water at the surface.

You can also opt for perlite, but sandy soil is cheaper—a friendly reminder to change soil often.

I’ve also discovered that using lime or baking soda has the same benefits as using sandy soil.

As a rule of thumb, avoid materials or soil that can generate moisture. Always choose absorbent surfaces.

11. Consider defoliating your plants

Here’s another budget-friendly route you can take. Leafy plants or plants with massive leaves can increase the humidity in your grow tent.

I usually try to cut off some leaves so the humidity doesn’t go above the recommended level.

Summarize something…

Indoor growers need to monitor both humidity and temperatures and how they affect each other.

This allows us to understand how environmental factors affect the growth and survival of our plants.

In general, plants find it difficult to perspire when both humidity and temperature are high.

As a result, growth and development slow down.

Additionally, airflow is one of the most important determinants of humidity in a grow tent.

Increasing the airflow will lower the humidity, while decreasing the airflow will increase the humidity.

Humidity must be controlled to ensure quality growth and higher yields.

Excess moisture at any stage of your plants growth can cause problems like mold and mildew.

Remember to understand the environmental factors first.

Then decide if you can spend the extra cash by investing in an air conditioner or dehumidifier.

If this is not possible, there are cheap methods such as using exhaust fans, a hygrometer control, checking ventilation, or checking plant density.

You can experiment which methods I’ve shared work best to lower the humidity in your grow tent.

Your plants will thank you if you invest in proper gardening tools, provide excellent air circulation, and control relatively low humidity levels for them.

Kimberly Sharpe lives in Florida and has been a full-time web writer since 2006. She writes for numerous online sites and publications. She has published in USA Today and eBay. She has extensive experience in indoor gardening, particularly in hydroponics and aquaponics. This includes equipment such as grow boxes, grow cabinets, grow lights and other hydroponic gardening themes.

Our guide to stopping condensation in a tent will show you how to reduce the risk mentioned above

Knowing how to stop condensation in a tent is a real boon to campers. Condensation is one of the biggest nuisances in the life of almost every camping enthusiast. We rock our campground, set up our pro-tempore palace for the night, snuggle in at bedtime, then suffer rude awakenings at an ungodly hour when things feel a little more aquatic than comfortable camping and a good one night rest is conducive.

While condensation can occur in even the best housing, and seems only slightly less inevitable than death and taxes, there are ways to mitigate the problem and perhaps eliminate it entirely.

In this guide we will show you how to stop condensation in your best camping tent…

How to stop condensation in a tent: 5 tips

1. Air!

The main cause of condensation in a tent is the heat and moisture generated by the tent occupants.

A single sleeper can produce up to half a liter of condensation per night, so a tent with 4 sleepers could get wetter than an otter’s pocket unless that condensation escapes. But how does it work? Well, the easiest way to air a tent in dry conditions is to ditch the fly and just use the tent body. This removes the most impenetrable layer of the tent and allows adequate airflow through the mesh panels in the tent walls or canopy. When weather conditions don’t allow for a fly-free pitch, it’s best to take full advantage of all the ventilation features of the tent. This means zipping up all mesh-lined windows, opening vents, leaving the doors (at least partially) open, and making sure none of the vents or doors are obstructed by the sleepers or their gear. If you’re not buying a tent yet, a model with doors on both sides of the sleeping area is the best choice for condensation-free sleeping, as discussed in more detail in How to Choose a Tent.

In dry weather, you can afford to omit the rain fly altogether (Image credit: Getty)

2. Use your vestibules for storage

One of the main causes of condensation in a tent is the presence of moisture contained in elements other than the sleepers themselves. The most common sources are wet shoes or hiking boots, damp clothing, backpacks, and even cooking utensils. In order to keep the sleeping area of ​​your tent as dry as possible, you should store all these utensils in the vestibule at night or alternatively bring a small tarp to tuck underneath when you go into the hay.

3. Face your doorway upwind

Condensation has never seen a tent it didn’t like, but – as mentioned above – those where airflow is poor are most likely to get the stuff riddled with.

Besides opening the vents and doors, the best way to optimize airflow is to ensure your tent is positioned to make the most of the breeze. That means choosing an exposed and unprotected site and orienting the door to the wind, which should help keep the air circulating inside.

Pitching even farther from the water reduces the chance of condensation forming inside your tent (Image credit: Getty)

4. Don’t stand too close to water features

Bodies of water such as lakes, rivers, ponds, streams, and wetlands can all increase humidity levels. Because of this, it can help to pitch your tent a few hundred yards away from these to keep condensation to a minimum.

5. Pack a towel

Having trouble keeping your sleeping bag dry?

That means you’re probably doing something wrong.

In this post, you’ll learn how to avoid moisture building up in your bag, how to choose a waterproof product, and more.

Sleeping bags are tailor-made for camping conditions. No wonder almost every camper uses them. However, for all the good things about them, waking up wet is not uncommon. Moisture collects on the outside of the sleeping bag due to condensation, morning dew, or wet weather conditions (if you’re more exposed to the elements). In some cases, moisture accumulation on your sleeping bag is unavoidable. Many camping experts claim that a wet sleeping bag is not the end of the world and you will only suffer a slight drop in temperature.

Nevertheless, you should take precautions to stay as dry as possible, because a dry sleeping bag is a warm sleeping bag.

Synthetic bag or down bag – advice for a waterproof sleeping bag

There’s a reason we start with the differences between sleeping bag fabric types. It’s the moment when your fabric choice could make your problem worse.

Synthetic bags

When it comes to camping in humid climates, a synthetic bag is almost always better. This is because the synthetic bags are made of tightly wound plastic fibers that offer much more water resistance than a down bag made of feathers. Not only does it offer more water resistance, but it also dries quickly. Synthetic bags also have the added benefit of being significantly cheaper.

However, synthetic bags are heavier, harder to pack and ultimately less durable. They are also less comfortable and generally less warm than down bags. Regardless, you’ll stay warmer longer in wet conditions with a synthetic sleeping bag due to its water-repellent properties.

down pockets

Down bags are made from delicate plumage found under the outer feathers of waterfowl. This plumage typically comes from geese. Their down-insulated jackets and duvets are often made of the same fine feathers. Down bags are measured in fill power. I won’t bore you with the exact mechanics of how fill power is measured – just know, the higher the fill power, the warmer the bag.

In general, down bags are significantly lighter, warmer, more compressible and more comfortable than synthetic bags. They last longer, sometimes even decades, because they can be compressed and expanded again without damaging the down interior. Unfortunately, these bags aren’t the best for wet conditions. When down gets wet, it clumps together and loses insulation. You can treat down bags with waterproof chemicals, but they won’t withstand total submersion or heavy rain.

Solutions for a dry sleeping bag

As you might have guessed, it’s up to your camping habits to avoid sleeping in a wet place. Here’s what you need to improve:

1. Use a bag cover, bivy sack, or DIY with a raincoat

A bivy sack or sack cover serves to protect a sleeping bag from rain and morning dew. Many people use bivy bags to replace their tents, an interesting choice for the novice camper but a reasonable choice for a long-distance backpacker who needs lightweight travel and weather resistance. However, it is important to ensure your cover is breathable, otherwise you run the risk of internal condensation building up on your sleeping bag. One option if you don’t want to invest in a bivy bag is to wrap raincoats around your sleeping bag, which will act as water repellent.

In fact, a great campground storage plan will solve most of the problems encountered by novice campers.

2. Use a liner before storing it in the bag

If you are backpacking in wet conditions, you can prevent your sleeping bag from getting soaked during your trip by using an inner lining. You can use a lined trash compactor bag or just use the trash compactor bags in your regular sleeping bag bin. If it’s extremely wet outside, you might even benefit from doubling down on your liners.

3. Hang your bag out to dry every morning

Your sleeping bag has already fallen victim to morning dew or condensation. So what now? If you are in a dry or windy area, you can hang your bag to dry. Synthetic bags dry faster than down bags, but both can dry in a few hours or less if they’re barely wet.

4. Avoid the urge to “wipe” the water beads on your bag.

Water beads at the top of your bag are a sign that your water repellent is working. It can be tempting to wipe those drops of water off the bag, but you should avoid this tendency. When you wipe off this water, it actually pushes moisture through your protective barrier and penetrates deeper into your sleeping bag. Instead, follow our last tip and hang the bag to dry. The water droplets either roll off or evaporate under the sun, leaving your bag dry and ready for the next use.

Learn how tent waterproofing works and see if some of these ideas could be applied to sleeping bags.

5. Air your tent

A little airflow can go a long way, especially if you forget to take everything outside to dry. Not to say that this also helps against condensation.

So don’t open those windows or close the main entrance if you have a tent with a screened-in area.

6. Store a dry tent

Sometimes people forget to dry and store their tent that has been in the tent for too long. So it’s no wonder that your sleeping bag gets wet the next time you go camping.

So take some time and take care of your tent because such mistakes can damage your camping gear.

last words

As you can see, a wet sleeping bag is mostly your fault. Yes, the fabric makes a difference, but bad habits can ruin even the most expensive sleeping bag.

So why not be a little more careful?

Remember that dry gear often makes for a comfortable camping experience. Not to say this is the number one priority if you want to stay warm while camping.