How To Keep Raccoons Out Of Deer Corn? Best 51 Answer

Learn how to identify raccoons and how to get rid of raccoons in your yard with these helpful tips.

What are raccoons?

Raccoons (Procyon lotor) wear masks over their eyes because they might even rob a bank vault. These imaginative animals are second to none in stamina and imagination (unless it’s a squirrel on a bird feeder).

Raccoons are great climbers, swimmers, jumpers, and runners. Their five-toed paws make them very dexterous, and their agility can enable them to outwit any human invention put at them to deter them. If they don’t break into your yard, they might try to climb up your chimney to use as a den.

Raccoons don’t hibernate during the winter, but they burrow during severe weather, causing them to lose a lot of body fat in northern areas. They often live in hollow trees during the warm season. Raccoon populations often include many juveniles, and families stay together for about a year.

What do raccoons eat?

Raccoons are nocturnal and omnivores, which means they will eat everything from maggots to crayfish, as well as any plants and vegetables you have in your garden. They develop a liking for fruits like apples, peaches and pears, especially in the fall, but they also enjoy a variety of vegetables like corn, potatoes and peas.

Although wild raccoons prefer areas with trees and a water source, more and more of them are raiding gardens because gardens are an easy food source. You will be even happier if you have a water source and some forest near your yard.

These bandits could steal your hunting season

Removing this threat will improve wildlife numbers

By Matt Dye

All avid hunters and landowners know the three basics of growing and keeping most wild animals on their property: food, water, and cover. Habitat improvement usually results in an increase in the quantity and quality of wildlife species using the property. But what do you do when your country has great habitat, year-round food sources, and plenty of water, and your wildlife numbers are still not increasing as you dreamed? The answer might be catch! Consistent trapping will likely lead to increased populations of ground-nesting birds (quail, turkey, etc.) and deer, allowing your country to show more of its potential just like you dreamed it would.

During my studies I had the unique opportunity to acquire additional credit points in autumn 2011 by doing an internship with Dr. Grant Woods graduated. I had to complete an independent study conducted by my college professor with one of Dr. Woods and I designed a project that focused on a specific aspect of wildlife management. As we were developing the project, I asked Dr. Woods for his goals for his “Proving Grounds” — his own 1,500-acre ranch in southwest Missouri. One of his goals was to increase his turkey population. On this highly managed property, Dr. Woods has developed year-round productive forage plots, great nesting habitats, acres of mature oaks, and reliable water sources. Although all of these habitat components worked in favor of wildlife, the turkey population was not very high.

The next step that would allow the turkey population to approach country carrying capacity was to get serious about trapping. dr Woods and his family have captured many different types of predators over the past eight years. For now, I would focus solely on catching as many raccoons as possible in the fall of 2011.

With a large predator population on a property, it is very difficult for ground-nesting bird populations to develop. Raccoons are opportunistic feeders, so when they smell food, they’ll follow the smell to find the source. When a raccoon finds a turkey nest, previous research has shown that it helps itself to a simple meal. Not only will they devour the eggs, they may even kill the turkey. This predation reduces future turkey populations by reducing potential brood and brood stock. This also applies to quail, grouse, ducks and pheasants in the United States. If you’re not a bird hunter but value your herd of red deer, then stop because catching predators applies to you too!

A big wild boar raccoon is one of the meanest and meanest creatures in the forest. Raccoons can be immensely stressful for a herd of deer. If you use game cameras to monitor surveys or at baiting sites, you will most likely be documenting raccoons frequenting the sites you set up for deer. Raccoons are very aggressive towards deer and will even run adult bucks away from bait spots. Just like humans, deer expend energy when under stress and during times of great anxiety.

As antlers grow during the summer, excess food not being used by a buck’s body systems is directed towards growing antlers. When a buck expends energy stress via raccoons, less is left over to be used for growing antlers.

In late spring, a young fawn is just as vulnerable to a large boar raccoon as the hen in her nest. Large male raccoons can easily weigh in excess of twenty pounds. When a large raccoon encounters a six-pound fawn, it’s likely to fail the defenseless meal. Whenever a 20-pound raccoon takes on a 6-pound fawn, I bet the raccoon every time. Trapping is a great tool for reducing raccoon numbers and creating a more favorable balance between this predator and multiple prey species.

Given the importance of carnivore management, my insights will not only help you become a better forest worker, but a better wildlife manager as well.

Much of this data could not have been collected without the help of Duke Trap Company. I have used two of their trap types: a cage trap design and a dog proof trap. Both of these traps can be bought cheaply, but are still extremely effective at catching raccoons. The aspect I liked most about the dog-proof style trap is that it is “target specific”. Whether you’re catching 2,000 acres or 20, you don’t have to worry about catching your neighbor’s beloved pet. That’s because the design of the trap doesn’t allow a dog to steal your bait or trigger the trigger. A dog-proof Duke trap can be placed anywhere you desire and is not time-consuming to set up.

If you have a trap, how can you attract raccoons to the site? I have found that inexpensive dog food works well. Dry dog ​​food is easy to bait your traps and can be sprinkled around the trap site to draw the raccoon’s attention to your set. One last tip: cover your dogproof trap with a metal can. This stops crows from stealing your bait, but raccoons have absolutely no problem twisting off the can to operate your trap. This increases your catch rate without wasting a precious “trap night” because the bait was stolen.

If you don’t have enough time to catch the target, I would suggest focusing your efforts on the new moon. Based on my experience and that of Dr. Woods, more raccoons are caught during times when the moon is in a certain range of illumination. I went again the data of Dr. Woods and checked the moonlight for data that he had caught raccoons. I found that although each phase of the moon was represented and successful, a strong trend was noted during the new moon.

About 36% of the raccoons caught over the past eight seasons have been caught on less than 12.5% ​​of the lunar surface illuminated. If the lunar surface is less than 12.5% ​​illuminated, which is only 27% of a full lunar cycle, then the 36% catch rate during that time becomes more significant. This trend holds true over years of catching and many different weather patterns.

The moon has a strong correlation with the movement of raccoons. If your time to catch is limited, then wait for “prime time” to set your traps and check the new moon forecast. The data suggests that this is the best time to successfully capture raccoons.

Using data collected during the first four weeks of the fall 2011 fishing season and comparison to previous data from Dr. Woods, I was able to show how successive years of trapping the same property for raccoons altered their age structure. The data from Dr. Woods suggest that the majority of raccoons, both male and female, ranged between 10.1 and 15 pounds. Since most adult raccoons weighed between 12 and 20 pounds, Grant continually took adult raccoons each year, but what has changed since January 2004?

During my time spent trapping the test site, my data collection showed that something was changing in the raccoon population. I caught more raccoons that weighed less and also had a wider range of raccoon weights than previous years’ data. As I tried to understand and diagnose the reasons for the change, it finally hit me! After years of trapping raccoons, a “vacancy” remained on the property. This meant that after Dr. Woods had trapped the long-established raccoons who called his property home, now had trapped the younger raccoons trying to fill the “void.” We use the young raccoons to fill in the spaces created by removing the older resident raccoons. That was great news for a younger trapper like me. I had the opportunity to catch young raccoons that were not yet raised.

This was even better news for Dr. Woods and wildlife managers like him. Trapping reduces the number of predators that will be present during the fawn/nesting season. Annual trapping is a must, however, as raccoons will fill this gap until the following fawning/nesting season. If your state regulations allow, catch just before these times, this will only ensure a better survival rate for your turkey and deer.

Another piece of data supporting my theory that capture changed the demographics of the resident raccoon population was the change in sex ratio in captive raccoons. As with most animal populations, the females control the population size. As shown in the graph below (Annual Raccoon Catch), the sex ratio of raccoons caught on Dr. Woods are caught, changed. I only caught a few mature females. As the sex ratio of captive raccoons shifts in favor of males, the resident raccoon population appears to have declined and young males disperse on the property annually. This is encouraging news for Dr. Woods and his goal to increase the number of surviving turkey poults and fawns!

What is striking in the above table (Annual Raccoon Capture) is that the number of male raccoons captured far outweighs the number of females. The main reason for this is the timing of Missouri’s fishing season—it coincides with raccoon mating season. Wild boar raccoons travel far and wide in search of a mate. As they travel further, they are more likely to encounter traps. That is why many males are caught every year. Although they emerge every year, turkey poults and fawns are less likely to be hunted if caught just before or during breeding and fawn season.

Trapping for several years in a row allows managers to reduce the number of predators on each property. My data suggests that there will be a decline in the resident population and younger raccoons will try to “fill the gap”.

Raccoons are fierce predators. If left alone, these omnivores can and will eat turkey eggs, adding additional stress to your herd of deer. They can cause significant damage to your prized hunting ground.

Don’t overlook the catch. It is an important management tool. Ignoring this tool likely means more resources are devoted to other aspects of your wildlife management program. It may take a few years for the majority of larger raccoons to be extinct. However, trapping is a valuable management tool. The skills and knowledge I learned from trapping, reading signs, etc. have made me a better deer hunter. Manage to improve the quantity and quality of deer and turkeys on your property and consider trapping your property today.

Header Photo Credit: Leisa Hennessy | Dreamstime.com

Sure, raccoons are kind of cute, but know this: If they feel threatened, a raccoon can be dangerous, especially if they’re carrying a disease (e.g. rabies). Proceed with caution and remember that there are professionals who are trained to deal with raccoons and other creatures. Your local government most likely has an animal control department with field operations aimed at helping residents cope with wildlife.

Of course, if you’ve been frustrated by repeated incidents or feel the need to take action immediately, read on to learn how to safely and effectively get rid of raccoons, whether they’re a nuisance under your roof or solely outdoors cause.

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How to get rid of raccoons outdoors

Raccoons are scavengers; If they’re hungry, even mere scraps of food left out in the open can lure them onto your property. Therefore, to eliminate a raccoon problem, it is important to keep discarded food waste out of sight and to contain or mask their odor as much as possible.

Buy and use containers with lids that close tightly and snap together. Also, consider double bagging any trash that will spend at least one night outside before your next scheduled trash pickup appointment.

Any food – even pet food – left outside can attract raccoons. If you must feed your pets outdoors, only feed them certain times of the day and remove anything that isn’t being eaten.

If you and your family love to cook and/or dine outdoors, always take the time to clean up afterwards. This is where it pays to be thorough; As a precaution, hose down and wipe down your picnic or patio table at the end of a meal. For best results, use a cleaner that contains bleach, a chemical that goes a long way in eliminating odors.

Note: Bleach works so well at eliminating food odors that you might even pour some over any garbage bags that have been left outside in an unsecured bin.

How to get rid of raccoons indoors

While raccoons can make a real mess in your yard, scattering trash in all directions over a surprisingly large radius, they can wreak even greater havoc indoors, putting your family’s health and safety at risk.

To get rid of raccoons in the house, you might be tempted to use poison. Ethics aside, this might not be the wisest route, because when the poison takes effect and the animal dies, it’s left with a foul smell and mess that I’m sure you won’t be happy to clean up – assuming you can even find the dead raccoon and that it is in an accessible location.

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How do you make sure raccoons get out and stay out? You must determine the entry point of the animals. Typically, raccoons enter through the eaves or through openings at the foundation level. Once you find the access point, the next step is to make your home inhospitable.

Raccoons love the dark, so a strategically placed flashlight can be a deterrent.

Since they are also put off by strange noises, playing a small radio can help keep them at bay.

Finally, raccoons hate the smell of ammonia, so keep a saucer full of the stuff (or a rag dipped in ammonia) near the creatures’ entry point.

Within 48 hours, the raccoons will likely be off the premises thanks to one or all of the above tricks.

Once you are sure your visitors have left the building, the final step is to seal the entry points to prevent them from returning. Walk around your home regularly over the coming weeks and months to look for signs of the presence of pests. Also, be sure to secure garbage bags and clean up after outdoor meals.

Raccoons in your yard can be a real problem. These urban scavengers are voracious and will eat almost anything. Raccoons have eaten potatoes from gardens, fish from koi ponds, and wires from phone booths. They are also the main vectors of rabies in the United States, along with several other potentially dangerous parasites.

You definitely want to keep raccoons off your property if you can. Traps are provided, but they can be cruel and inconvenient for animals to clean. Poison is dangerous for all small animals that come to your property. If at all possible, it is best to discourage raccoons from even getting onto your property.

Don’t give them a reason to visit

One of the most effective ways to deter raccoons is to simply give them no reason to visit your home. Raccoons are almost always on the hunt for food, so it starts with taking food away from them.

Bring trash cans

Trash cans are irresistible to raccoons. In the wild, these animals forage and brush for food in burrows, and to the raccoon, a trash can looks and smells like a burrow full of edibles. Getting a trash can with a lockable lid is a good first step in keeping raccoons out of the trash can, but they can usually still smell the trash and come from everywhere. Try bringing your trash cans indoors at night, either in the garage or in a shed. You may also want to toss empty tuna cans and other potentially attractive pieces of trash in plastic bags to curb their odor before throwing them away.

Don’t miss any pet food

Many people leave food for their dogs and cats on their porch. As a general rule, you can assume that raccoons will happily eat anything your pets can eat. If at all possible, never leave a bowl of food where raccoons can see or smell it. If you must feed the pets on the porch, set out the dishes around noon when the raccoons are mostly asleep and bring them back as soon as possible to limit the time they are outside. Bird feeders are less risky but can still attract raccoons to your yard. In addition to eating seeds and other snacks, raccoons may be attracted to the birds hanging around your bird feeders. If this is the case, consider bringing your bird feeders indoors at night.

Actively avert them

If removing the potential attractions from your yard isn’t enough to stop the raccoons from passing by, you may need to take a more active role in repelling them. Most chemicals and mechanical traps pose risks to other wildlife. Fortunately, there are several less dangerous ways to actively repel and keep raccoons away.

Soap the yard

Raccoons use their excellent sense of smell to forage for food, and some scents are really effective at repelling them. The ingredients in Irish Spring soap are generally effective in keeping raccoons and other small mammals out of your yard. You can sprinkle soap flakes around the edges of your property to create a barrier for them, as well as place more concentrated piles near potential food sources, preferably under a shelter to keep out the rain. Cayenne pepper has a similar effect to many other herbs and spices.

Install deterrent lights

Another option to try, and one without potentially toxic chemicals and strong odors, is a repellent light. Repellent lights shine a colored beam, usually red, across your garden at night to keep the unwanted animals away. Many nocturnal animals, including raccoons, have eyes that are sensitive to this type of light, and the flash disturbs them enough to keep them away without fencing or chemical deterrents. Ideally, the light you use should be battery operated, easily rechargeable, and portable so you can place it next to a garden, trash cans, or the chicken coop, whichever the raccoons seem to be most interested in.

Nite Guard Solar Repellent Lights are ideal for this job. We understand how much damage raccoons and other pests can do to your property, which is why we have developed a lightweight, portable deterrent lamp proven to deter raccoons from entering your property at night.

Our repellent light has a long-lasting solar panel on top that charges the battery during the day, even in cloudy weather. When the sun goes down, the onboard sensor automatically turns on the flashing red light that stays on all night. When the sun rises the next morning, the light turns off and the charging cycle begins again. None of this requires any special effort or time on your part. Just put the light where you need it and leave it there.

To learn more about Nite Guard solar lights, click here.

Raccoons are smart, quirky animals to watch from afar, but they’re not creatures you’d want to share space with.

Raccoons will root through your trash, destroy your lawn and yard, damage your home’s building materials, eat birdseed and pet food, and even transmit diseases that can be dangerous to you and your pets.

Luckily, you don’t have to live with destructive raccoons forever.

Here at Smith’s Pest Management, we specialize in providing raccoon control services to residential and commercial property owners in California’s San Francisco Bay Area.

In this post, we share our top tip on how to get rid of raccoons once and for all.

Let’s dive in.

How to recognize that you have a raccoon problem

Raccoons are nocturnal, meaning they are only active at night. As a result, their presence can be difficult to detect.

The best way to tell you have a raccoon problem is to pay attention to the clues they leave behind.

Here are a few things we recommend keeping in mind:

Advice on feeding raccoons. Raccoons are messy, gluttonous eaters and will leave a trail after eating. Common signs of raccoon feeding include knocked over trash cans, damage to your lawn or garden, empty, spilled, or shifted pet food bowls, disturbed compost piles, and empty or broken bird feeders.

. Raccoons are messy, gluttonous eaters and will leave a trail after eating. Common signs of raccoon feeding include knocked over trash cans, damage to your lawn or garden, empty, spilled, or shifted pet food bowls, disturbed compost piles, and empty or broken bird feeders. Sense. Raccoon and possum tracks look similar. Like humans, raccoons walk flat-footed and have claws on all their toes. The distinguishing feature is that raccoon tracks move in a diagonal track pattern, like deer do. Their tracks have a longer heel on the back foot and are typically 2 to 3 inches wide on the front feet and 3 to 4 inches long on the back feet.

Raccoon and possum tracks look similar. Like humans, raccoons walk flat-footed and have claws on all their toes. The distinguishing feature is that raccoon tracks move in a diagonal track pattern, like deer do. Their tracks have a longer heel on the back foot and are typically 2 to 3 inches wide on the front feet and 3 to 4 inches long on the back feet. feces . Raccoon droppings are cylindrical with broken or rounded ends. They tend to be dark in color, although color will vary depending on the animal’s diet. The droppings typically contain berry seeds and may contain signs of litter.

. Raccoon droppings are cylindrical with broken or rounded ends. They tend to be dark in color, although color will vary depending on the animal’s diet. The droppings typically contain berry seeds and may contain signs of litter. Strange noise. At night, you may notice strange noises around your property. Raccoons make sounds like meowing, whistling, and growling.

Regardless of what raccoon signs you notice, it’s important to deal with the problem promptly.

Raccoons can be very harmful and waiting too long to address the problem will only make the infestation worse.

How to get rid of raccoons humanely and naturally

When it comes to raccoon removal, we always advocate humane removal over lethal methods.

If you have a raccoon problem, you can use the following steps to manage the raccoon population on your property:

In the attic

If you have a raccoon in the attic, chances are it’s a female with babies. Females searching for nest sites will rip off fairings, vents, and more to find a safe spot.

To get rid of a raccoon in the attic, follow these steps:

Find out if there are babies. Before taking steps to get rid of the raccoons, determine if they are a mother raccoon with babies. If so, leave the raccoons where they are for a few weeks to allow the babies to grow. Otherwise they die without their mother. Next, you can install one-way doors to get the raccoons out of your attic. Once they’re gone, they can’t re-enter. To encourage them to leave, place a loud, battery-powered radio in the attic or place a bowl of apple cider vinegar near their nesting site. Alternatively, you can hire a pest control professional like Smith’s to take care of the problem. We will humanely relocate the mother and her babies, making sure none of the raccoons are harmed in the process.

Before taking steps to get rid of the raccoons, determine if they are a mother raccoon with babies. If so, leave the raccoons where they are for a few weeks to allow the babies to grow. Otherwise they die without their mother. Next, you can install one-way doors to get the raccoons out of your attic. Once they’re gone, they can’t re-enter. To encourage them to leave, place a loud, battery-powered radio in the attic or place a bowl of apple cider vinegar near their nesting site. Alternatively, you can hire a pest control professional like Smith’s to take care of the problem. We will humanely relocate the mother and her babies, making sure none of the raccoons are harmed in the process. Set live raccoon traps to catch and remove all raccoons present. If you wish to do this, contact your local fish and wildlife authority first. They can provide you with traps and help you relocate the raccoons safely.

Catch and remove any raccoons present. If you wish to do this, contact your local fish and wildlife authority first. They can provide you with traps and help you relocate the raccoons safely. Seal all gaps and openings in your attic, including vents and gaskets. If you have raccoons in the attic, you need to figure out how they got there. Thoroughly examine the house to find the entry point the raccoons are using. Use galvanized hard wire braid to seal these access points.

If you have raccoons in the attic, you need to figure out how they got there. Thoroughly examine the house to find the entry point the raccoons are using. Use galvanized hard wire braid to seal these access points. Remove all food, water, and bedding materials raccoons may be using.

Under the house or deck

Again, a raccoon living under the house or deck is usually a mother with babies.

Female raccoons generally have their babies between January and June, so care should be taken to remove the raccoons without orphaning the babies.

Here are a few tips:

Use live traps to catch and remove the mother raccoon and her babies.

to catch and remove the mother raccoon and her babies. Once the raccoons are gone, clean up the nesting area under the house or deck. Remove all bedding material.

under the house or deck. Remove all bedding material. When the room is clean, seal all access points.

Using ‘human harassment’ to keep raccoons from coming back. Raccoons love spaces under houses and decks because they are dark, quiet, and safe. Using floodlights to illuminate the space and placing store-bought odor-based deterrents (or homemade options like vinegar, dirty cat litter, or ammonia) reduces the attractiveness of these environments and makes raccoons less likely to return.

In your yard or garden

When raccoons settle on your lawn or yard, they are usually foraging for food.

Raccoons looking for larvae, for example, will uproot grass, flowers, and landscaping to reveal their favorite food sources.

This can quickly cause thousands of dollars in damage to your flowers, shrubs, and grass.

To get rid of raccoons in your yard or garden, we recommend the following:

Invest in a professional forage treatment. If you’re based in the San Francisco Bay Area, Smith’s Pest Management treats your lawn and yard to get rid of larvae and other food sources for the raccoon, and encourages raccoons to go elsewhere (and stop tearing up your grass). For best results, we recommend enrolling in an annual lawn pit treatment program that will prevent larvae from returning each summer and keep your property raccoon-free. Contact us to learn more about this service.

. If you’re based in the San Francisco Bay Area, Smith’s Pest Management treats your lawn and yard to get rid of larvae and other food sources for the raccoon, and encourages raccoons to go elsewhere (and stop tearing up your grass). For best results, we recommend enrolling in an annual lawn pit treatment program that will prevent larvae from returning each summer and keep your property raccoon-free. Contact us to learn more about this service. Use home remedies like ammonia, vinegar, ground garlic, cayenne pepper powder, blood meal, or dirty kitty litter. Sprinkle the natural raccoon deterrent in high traffic areas to make the space less attractive to raccoons.

such as ammonia, vinegar, ground garlic, powdered cayenne pepper, blood meal, or dirty cat litter. Sprinkle the natural raccoon deterrent in high traffic areas to make the space less attractive to raccoons. Use motion-activated light or sound deterrents. These deterrents detect movement and emit loud noises or bright flashes of light to keep raccoons off your lawn and yard.

On the roof

Raccoons are excellent climbers, and while finding them on your roof can be alarming, for many homeowners, this is a common experience.

When raccoons spend time on your roof, they can damage your shingles or roofing material, enter chimneys and vents (causing dangerous fire hazards), and more.

Here are a few clever ways to get rid of them:

Trim the trees, vines, and landscaping around your home to reduce “bridges” on your roof.

around your home to reduce “bridges” onto your roof. Eliminate food sources that raccoons may return to, including trash, compost, pet food, and bird seed.

that raccoons may return to, including trash, compost, pet food, and bird seed. Place sheet metal around the edge of your roof and around the bases of the trees on your property. This will deter raccoons without hurting other animals like your outdoor cats.

around the edge of your roof and at the roots of trees on your property. This will deter raccoons without hurting other animals like your outdoor cats. Install an electric fence strip on all fences that are near your home or roof.

in your walls

If you have a raccoon in the wall, the situation can quickly become stressful. Raccoons in the wall make noise at any time of the night and can damage your insulation, wiring, and more.

Here are some tips to get rid of a raccoon in the wall:

Hire a professional pest control company like Smith’s. Getting rid of raccoons in the wall is a tall order and can be dangerous for both you and the raccoons if you try to do it yourself.

like Smith. Getting rid of raccoons in the wall is a tall order and can be dangerous for both you and the raccoons if you try to do it yourself. Once the professional pest control company has removed the raccoons from your wall, you can work to identify the entry points and seal them off to prevent future intrusions.

At the bird feeder

Figuring out how to keep raccoons away from bird feeders can feel like a daunting task. Their large size, excellent climbing ability, and maneuverable hands allow them access to most bird feeders.

Luckily, it’s possible to put an end to raccoons at your feeding stations.

We recommend the following:

Hang your feeders as high as possible. The Humane Society recommends hanging birdhouses on poles ½ inch in diameter or less, since raccoons can’t climb poles that thin.

. The Humane Society recommends hanging bird feeders on poles ½ inch in diameter or less, since raccoons can’t climb poles that thin. Hang feeders from wires suspended between two trees. Make sure the bird feeders are far enough away from each tree that raccoons cannot jump on the feeder.

. Make sure the bird feeders are far enough away from each tree that raccoons cannot jump on the feeder. Add store-bought raccoon guards to pole-mounted feeders.

to mast mounted feeders. Purchase raccoon-resistant bird feeders.

In the chimney

A raccoon in a chimney can be a serious fire hazard, as bedding and nesting materials are often highly flammable.

So what keeps raccoons away?

Follow these tips to get rid of raccoons in your chimney:

Hire a professional to remove the raccoons from the chimney. A professional pest control company like Smith’s can remove all raccoons without killing them or damaging your chimney.

to remove the raccoons from the chimney. A professional pest control company like Smith’s can remove all raccoons without killing them or damaging your chimney. Once the raccoons are gone, clean the room they left behind. Remove any nesting material or other items left by the raccoon in the chimney.

. Remove any nesting material or other items left by the raccoon in the chimney. seal the chimney. Use a spark arrestor or chimney cap with heavy-duty wire mesh. This will cover the chimney hole and make it inaccessible to raccoons.

In your chicken coop

Raccoons are voracious chicken predators and will do anything to gain access to an endangered chicken coop.

To keep raccoons out of your coop, follow these tips:

Use hardware cloth to cover the chicken coop windows. This cloth is tough enough to withstand raccoon attacks.

. This cloth is tough enough to withstand raccoon attacks. Bury the hardware cloth 2-4 feet deep around the perimeter of the coop to discourage raccoons from burrowing into the coop. Consider running the cloth up the chimney as well if the coop is accessible by climbing.

around the coop to keep the raccoons from digging into the coop. Consider running the cloth up the chimney as well if the coop is accessible by climbing. Install complex latches and locks on the chicken coop doors that raccoons cannot open.

in a tree

A lone raccoon in a tree may not be a big problem, but a nest of raccoons will be. Remove raccoons from a tree with these tips:

Place live traps in the cage and remove the raccoons.

to imprison and remove the raccoons. Attach sheet metal or raccoon protection to the trunks of your trees to discourage climbing.

on the trunks of your trees to prevent climbing. Clean up fruit or nuts that have fallen from the tree to remove food sources for raccoons.

How to deter raccoons: 9 DIY control methods

Would you like to control the raccoons on your property without hurting them?

Here are nine humane DIY ways to deter raccoons.

Add a motion activated sprinkler. If you have raccoons in your garden or yard, consider adding a motion-activated sprinkler. The sprinkler detects the crawling raccoons and pours a gush of cold water over them. Use ultrasonic deterrent devices. Ultrasonic deterrents are a great way to get rid of raccoons without harming them. These small, affordable, and unobtrusive devices use sound (or a combination of light and sound) to deter raccoons. Some emit hunting sounds of predators, while others emit frequencies only raccoons can hear. Secure trash cans. Garbage is an ideal food source for raccoons. Make sure your trash is sealed. If you store your trash can outside, make sure it’s in a heavy-duty bucket with a secure lid that snaps in place. Even better, keep your trash cans in a garage or enclosed outdoor shed whenever possible. Pack your rubbish in raccoon repellent bin liners. If, despite your best efforts, raccoons are still getting into your trash, consider purchasing some rodent-resistant trash bags. These bags are made with strong-smelling essential oils like camphor and mint that repel raccoons. The aroma keeps them out of your trash cans without harming the raccoons, your kids or pets. Make your own raccoon repellent. Raccoons have highly sensitive noses and are easily put off by certain smells, such as pepper. Mix a gallon of water with a few drops of liquid dish soap and a bottle of hot sauce (or an entire spice jar of powdered cayenne pepper). Spray the mixture anywhere you’ve noticed raccoon activity. Use ammonia. Ammonia, a common household cleaning agent, mimics the smell of urine, which raccoons hate. Soak some rags in ammonia and leave them anywhere you’ve noticed raccoon activity, or just leave a bowl of ammonia near raccoon entry points to your home. Remove animal and bird seed. Any outdoor pet food or bird seed should be brought in each night. Use fences to protect areas of high interest. Raccoons are creative, intelligent creatures that forage for food in compost heaps, gardens, fish ponds and more. To keep raccoons out of these areas, install electric fences around them. We recommend erecting a fence with two wires – one 6 inches off the ground and the other 12 inches off the ground. This prevents damage from raccoons without harming the animals. Never feed raccoons. Raccoons can look cute and make convincing beggars, but you should never put food out for raccoons. Even feeding a single raccoon will only attract more raccoons on the street.

How Do Pest Control Experts Get Rid of Raccoons?

Sometimes getting rid of raccoons is a task that only a wildlife control expert can do. How our team can help:

Initial assessment. First we start by assessing your problem areas. Our experienced pest control technicians will inspect your property to determine how raccoons invade and what damage they are causing. We will locate their entry areas and create a plan to solve them. To catch. While we are serious about getting rid of your raccoon problem, we always take a humane approach. To remove raccoons without hurting or killing them, we set up safe live traps to catch the raccoons. We monitor and check these traps daily and will relocate the raccoons as soon as we catch them. exclusion methods. Finally, we will prevent future raccoon infestations by installing lockdown barriers to prevent raccoons from coming back. We use commercial grade foreclosure methods that have been proven over time and will not negatively impact your property.

Are raccoons taking over your property in the San Francisco Bay Area? We are here to help!

Tired of dealing with raccoons on your property? Our team is here to help.

Smith’s Pest Management offers comprehensive raccoon control services and uses various environmentally conscious techniques to get rid of raccoons and help you reclaim your outdoor space.

We service residential and commercial properties in Northern California, from Marin to Monterey.

sweetcorn

introduction

For varieties grown in the UK, sweetcorn comes in three main colors: yellow sweetcorn; white candy corn; and two tone. Many other colors of sweetcorn are available, but these can have different culinary uses and require longer, hotter summers (than usual in the UK). Sweetcorn requires no special care, has a relatively short growing season, and will thrive in most summers—requiring constant warmth rather than plentiful sun.

Sow in a warm environment such as a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill

Planting depth: 2.5 cm

Planting distance: 40cm between plants, 40cm between rows Harvesting sweet corn may require a net (or cage) to prevent birds, mice, rats and squirrels from eating it first

Pick when the tassels have turned brown (try opening a cob to test maturity)

sow

(inside) sow

(outside) Harvest

(fresh) harvest

(saved) January February March April ✔ May ✔ June July August ✔ September ✔ October November December

=jar,=freeze,=store =jar,=freeze,=store

sorts

The main decision when growing sweetcorn is choosing the right strain for your growing conditions. There are three main types: Normal

Enriched with Sugar (or Extra Tender Sweet)

Super Sweet Super sweet strains are said to be twice as sweet as regular strains. Sweetness level is not the only consideration, however. In general, sweeter varieties are less hardy and require hotter weather to mature and reach their full sweetness. They are suitable for warmer parts of the UK and for hot summers. Better results can be achieved on colder plots when growing “regular” sweetness varieties. The challenge of combining high levels of sweetness with the ability to weather the UK summers well is why many sweetcorn varieties are F1 hybrids. Hybrids are crossings of at least two different strains with the intention of retaining the best traits of both. Varieties of candy corn can pollinate each other, which can alter the flavor of the candy corn produced. To avoid this, it is recommended to only grow one variety of sweetcorn in your garden or allotment. For varieties grown in the UK, sweetcorn comes in three main colors: yellow sweetcorn; white candy corn; and two tone. Many other colors of sweetcorn are available, but these can have different culinary uses and require longer, hotter summers (than usual in the UK).

View all varieties in the allotment garden shop

Growing

Sweetcorn is a frost sensitive plant and should therefore be planted outdoors under shelter or after the last frosts. Plants grow vertically, so applying thick mulch or using biodegradable weed control fabric can significantly reduce the amount of weeding needed around plants. For this reason, some people choose to grow squash and corn side-by-side, as the spreading squash will cover the soil around the tall corn plants and has the added benefit of helping to retain moisture in the soil.

It is recommended that sweetcorns be planted in a trellis formation rather than in a row to maximize the chance of wind cross pollination. I leave a distance of about 40 centimeters between the plants in all directions.

On my plot, candy corn is relatively pest free until the very last moment when the candy corn is ripe. At this stage, rats, mice, squirrels, and even deer are potential predators. Covering the crop with netting and making sure there are no gaps in the netting at ground level can help prevent an attack. To minimize the risk of animals getting to the corn first, it’s better to harvest candy corn as soon as the tassels on top of the corn are turning properly brown.

Sweetcorn tastes best when cooked and eaten as soon as possible after harvest, otherwise the natural sugars in the corn turn into starch.

gallery

What ate my corn?

Wildlife damage to corn is widespread in Michigan. Follow these grower tips to help determine what kind is causing what kind of damage.

Deer

Deer begin eating or hitchhiking corn beginning at emergence. As long as the growth point remains undamaged, the plant will continue to grow to growth stage V5. From V6 to before tassel, deer leaves graze. Deer damage during this time can include a full bite of the stalk below the tassel and in the center of the growth vertebra.

Damage to the ears during their development causes a telescopic envelope as they mature. Feeding young spikes during late vegetative growth will of course result in almost total yield loss for this plant.

During the reproductive stages of corn, deer damage is concentrated in the silk phase, milk phase, and maturity. When silking, deer bite into the tender corn silk. The effect on yield depends on whether the damage occurred before pollination or not. Feeding is usually done before pollination because the silk dries out quickly after pollination. Silk feeding prior to pollination affects yield.

During the milking phase, deer remove cores by scraping an ear along its length with their lower incisors (teeth). You can also outline ripe corn stalks. Signs of deer damage are a small number of stems that have been knocked over and are in the same direction. This damage is usually dealt by deer running through the area instead of feeding on the corn.

raccoons

Raccoons damage corn by climbing on the stalks and breaking them to reach the ears, pulling back the pods and partially eating the cob. Damage almost always occurs after the corn has started its reproductive phase and lasts until harvest. Corn damaged by raccoons will lie down in many directions, and the number of stalks knocked over is usually greater than the number of stalks knocked over. Raccoon damage to corn results in shredded husks and muddy cobs.

Wild Turkeys

Wild turkeys can be blamed for crop damage, but this is not usually the case. They will most likely eat insects and trash grain and will not deal the initial damage.

Marmots (woodchucks)

While groundhogs damage soybeans, they are not usually responsible for much damage to corn.

For a deeper dive into this topic, read the Purdue University Extension publication on Corn and Soybean Crop Depredation by Wildlife.

Raccoons are cute until they throw trash all over your front yard and dig up your lawn. And if you let them get away with it, they will never stop. So how can you kick out those scruffy little roommates without hurting them? How to humanely keep raccoons out of your garden.

9 tips to keep raccoons out of your yard

When raccoons venture into your yard, they’re looking for three things: food, water, and shelter. If they don’t find any, they have no reason to stay here. The best way to prevent raccoons in your yard is to make sure they don’t find what they’re looking for.

But if you already have raccoons on your property, you can still use certain scents and other methods to repel them. Follow these tips to make your yard “raccoon-proof” as much as possible.

1. Secure trash cans

A raccoon’s primary food source on your property is your trash can. These critters are smarter than you think, and they’ll knock over your trash can or open the lid to get at the tasty morsels inside.

To prevent this, keep your trash cans tightly closed. Get a lock for the lid, tie it down with bungee cords, or place heavy weights like cinder blocks on top. If possible, keep garbage cans in a garage or shed and keep the door closed at night. The less accessible your junk is, the better.

Even if raccoons can’t get to your trash, the smell can attract them. If you’re throwing out particularly smelly waste, like raw meat, seal it in a plastic bag first to contain the odor.

2. Remove possible food sources

Aside from trash, raccoons may find food in compost piles, bird feeders, pet food bowls, or just on the ground if you have trees that produce nuts or fruit. Find all possible food sources on your property and remove them if you want the raccoons to stay away.

For compost heaps: Get a compost heap with a secure lid. Keep it in a garage or shed if possible. If you don’t want to use a trash can, consider installing an electric fence around the pile. Regular fencing is not enough to deter raccoons – they are avid climbers.

For Bird Feeders: Raccoons are nocturnal, so if you bring your bird feeders inside at night, raccoons will not reach them. Alternatively, you can hang the bird feeder on a thin pole that raccoons can’t climb, or fit a raccoon shelter around the bottom of the pole.

For pet food bowls: Never leave pet food out overnight. It’s best to feed your pets indoors (or in the garage), but if that’s not an option, make sure you get their bowls inside before dark.

For nut and fruit trees: get rid of fallen fruit and nuts as quickly as possible, ideally every day. You never know what night raccoons will show up looking for a feast.

3. Protect your fruits and vegetables

Having a vegetable garden, berry bush, or fruit tree in your yard could be another important food source for your local raccoons. You probably don’t want to get rid of your yard just to prevent raccoons, but you can still put up a barrier to keep them out.

The most effective way to protect your prized fruits and vegetables from raccoon attacks is to build an electric fence around your yard. In this case, an electric fence is not really a “fence” but a strip of electric wire. The shock of an electric fence should be enough to deter raccoons, but not enough to seriously injure them. Erect a strip of electric fence around your yard about 6 inches off the ground and another about 12 inches off the ground (to keep the raccoons from jumping over it).

WARNING: An electric fence can be dangerous if you have pets or small children playing in your yard. Instead of an electric fence, you could try growing plants with prickly vines or thorny branches around your fruit and veg to keep the raccoons out. Just watch out for the thorns when gardening!

4. Block access to hideouts

Raccoons like to seek shelter in dark, enclosed spaces. This includes spots like the crawl space under a deck or porch, under the roots of a large tree, or anywhere the brush is thick enough to provide cover.

Identify any hiding spots on your property that would be good homes for raccoons and either remove them or erect a barrier to keep the raccoons out. Block off spaces under your house with chicken wire, tin, or another durable material that raccoons won’t tear easily. Keep bushes clean and trimmed to reduce cover.

5. Eliminate water sources

As you survey your property for potential food sources and hiding spots, also look for things the raccoons might use as a watering hole. For example, do you have a swimming pool, koi pond, bird bath or other water features? Or is there a bin or container in your yard that could fill up with water when it rains?

If you have a raccoon problem, consider covering water features (including swimming pools) with a durable material, at least at night. This is especially important for fish ponds – not only do raccoons drink the water, they also go fishing!

If you successfully eliminate all sources of food, water, and shelter, raccoons will no longer have a reason to be in your yard.

6. Treat your lawn for maggots

Have raccoons dug holes in your lawn? They likely hunt maggots, tiny beetle larvae that live in the soil and eat grass roots. Take care of your food problem first, and the raccoons might just disappear on their own when they find their favorite all-you-can-eat buffet is closed.

In addition to holes in your lawn caused by raccoons and similar predators, other signs of a maggot infestation include:

Yellowing or browning grass

Grass that pulls itself out of the ground with little resistance

A spongy feeling when you walk on the grass

If you notice these symptoms, learn how to get rid of maggots in your lawn. That could also be the key to getting rid of your raccoons.

7. Deodorants

Raccoons have a keen sense of smell, allowing them to sniff out your trash from miles away. But you can use their sharp noses to your advantage. There are many pungent smells that confuse their senses and act as raccoon repellents.

Here are some smells raccoons hate and how you can use them in your yard:

Store-bought deterrents: There are many products you can buy online or at your local garden center to repel wildlife like raccoons. They usually come in the form of liquid sprays.

There are many products you can buy online or at your local garden center to repel wildlife like raccoons. They usually come in the form of liquid sprays. Predator Urine: The smell of predator urine — like wolves, coyotes, or lynxes — fools raccoons into thinking your property is unsafe. Believe it or not, you can easily find predator urine for pest control online and at some garden centers. Whichever predator is most common in your area, use that animal’s urine. The smell of a known predator is the most effective way of keeping raccoons away.

The smell of urine from predators — like wolves, coyotes, or lynxes — fools raccoons into thinking your property is unsafe. Believe it or not, you can easily find predator urine for pest control online and at some garden centers. Whichever predator is most common in your area, use that animal’s urine. The smell of a known predator is the most effective way of keeping raccoons away. Vinegar: You can dilute the vinegar with water to make it go further, or use pure vinegar for a stronger smell. Be sure to put the liquid in a spray bottle and spray it around your property.

You can dilute the vinegar with water to make it go further, or use pure vinegar for a stronger smell. Be sure to put the liquid in a spray bottle and spray it around your property. Ammonia: Buy ammonia (a chemical found in urine) online or at a hardware store that sells pesticides. Dip rags in the ammonia and place them around your property or leave uncovered bowls of ammonia.

Buy ammonia (a chemical found in urine) online or at a hardware store that sells pesticides. Dip rags in the ammonia and place them around your property or leave uncovered bowls of ammonia. Garlic: Crush garlic cloves and leave them in containers on your property, or mix garlic juice with water to make a repellent spray.

Crush garlic cloves and leave them in containers on your property, or mix garlic juice with water to make a repellent spray. Cayenne Pepper: Sprinkle a generous amount of dry cayenne pepper around areas where raccoons may roam, or mix a full can of cayenne pepper with a gallon of water to make a spray.

Generously sprinkle dry cayenne pepper around areas where raccoons may roam, or mix a full can of cayenne pepper with a gallon of water to make a spray. Blood Meal: Buy blood meal, a powder made from dried animal blood, online or at a hardware store. Sprinkle the powder generously over your property.

Buy blood meal, a powder made from dried animal blood, online or at a hardware store. Sprinkle the powder generously over your property. Cucumber Plants: Try growing cucumber plants in your garden. Raccoons hate their smell and as an added bonus you can eat them! Plant cucumbers around the border of your garden to deter raccoons from messing with the other vegetables.

Try growing cucumber plants in your garden. Raccoons hate their smell and as an added bonus you can eat them! Plant cucumbers around the border of your garden to deter raccoons from messing with the other vegetables. Irish Spring Soap: Grate or break up pieces of Irish Spring soap into flakes. Distribute the flakes or chunks generously over your property.

Flake or break Irish Spring bars of soap into chunks. Distribute the flakes or chunks generously over your property. Peppermint Oil: Mix several drops of Peppermint Essential Oil with water to create a repellent spray. You could also spray pure peppermint oil for a stronger scent, but that would get expensive very quickly.

Mix several drops of peppermint essential oil with water to create a repellent spray. You could also spray pure peppermint oil for a stronger scent, but that would get expensive very quickly. Epsom Salts: Sprinkle generously around your property with Epsom salts.

You don’t have to douse your entire yard with these scents to irritate the raccoons’ noses and make them disappear. Apply the scents near food sources, enclosed spaces, and other places where you might expect raccoons. You can also apply the scents around your property to create a border of sorts.

Important to note: Raccoon repellent scents don’t last forever. For lasting results, you need to reapply the scents every few days. For this reason, odor deflectors are not a viable long-term solution. But they can be good for scaring the raccoons off your property, giving you the ability to secure your trash cans, tidy up your yard, trim bushes, and generally make your property less attractive to the raccoons so they don’t have a reason to have come back.

Warning to pet owners: just as these scents irritate raccoons, they irritate cats, dogs, and other outdoor roamers. Your pets may not want to go outside with these smells in the garden.

8. Motion activated lights and sprinklers

Motion-activated lights and sprinkler nozzles are usually easy to install and can be effective at deterring raccoons. Place these motion-activated deterrents in strategic locations where the raccoons are sure to trigger them, such as B. next to your rubbish bins or under your patio.

Motion Activated Light Products:

Motion Activated Sprinkler Products:

9. Anti-noise devices

Sonic pest repellers are electronic devices that emit a high-pitched sound that humans cannot hear but drive animals insane. These devices are designed to keep out many types of wildlife pests, not just raccoons. The sound can temporarily disorient animals, but does not cause permanent damage.

Pet Owner Warning: Sonic Pest Repellers will also disorient your pets when they go outside. However, the noise does not penetrate walls, so it should not bother pets as long as they are indoors.

Sonic pest repellent products:

How to keep raccoons out of your home

If raccoons are regulars in your yard, the worst-case scenario is that they get into your home and stay there. But there are steps you can take to secure your home and keep raccoons out.

Seal Entrances: Seal or cover all possible entrances into your home. This includes dog or cat doors, air vents, and even your chimney (which you can cover with metal mesh or a mesh with holes in it). Walk around your house and check for openings big enough for a raccoon (if a cat can fit through, a raccoon probably could too). Always keep windows and garage doors closed at night.

Remove Bridges: If you have tall trees or poles near your house, raccoons can climb them and use them as a bridge to get onto your roof and possibly into your house. Hold back the branches of tall trees so they don’t hang over the roof. There should be no path from the ground to your roof.

Signs that you have a raccoon problem

Raccoons are nocturnal animals, meaning they are only active at night. Unless you’re a night owl yourself, you may never actually see them on your property. But in daylight, these common raccoon signs can alert you that you’re harboring some scavengers.

Feeding clues: overturned garbage cans and/or rubbish thrown everywhere, broken or overturned bird feeder, unexplained holes in lawn and garden (from digging to maggots), missing fish in pond

Overturned trash cans and/or trash thrown everywhere, broken or overturned birdhouses, unexplained holes in lawn and yard (from digging for larvae), missing fish in pond Raccoon tracks: 2-3 inches wide, shaped like a hand with five toes on each paw, can possibly see small claws on the tips of each toe

2-3 inches across, shaped like a hand with five toes on each paw, small claws can be seen on the tips of each toe. Raccoon droppings: Usually cylindrical in shape and no longer than 3 inches, they vary in color and consistency

Usually cylindrical in shape and no longer than 3 inches, they vary in color and consistency. Loud noises from outside: At night you can hear them rummaging, growling or running across the roof

At night, they can be heard poking around, growling, or running across the roof Scratch Marks: May leave small claw marks on trees, woodpiles, and other structures they might climb

FAQ about raccoons

1. What do raccoons eat? Raccoons are omnivores, which means they eat both meat and plants. In the wild, they eat things like berries, nuts, seeds, eggs, insects, fish, and even small mammals. In a residential neighborhood, they’ll eat just about anything remotely edible, including your trash and compost. 2. How do you keep raccoons out of a chicken coop? The easiest way to keep raccoons out of your chicken coop is to cover the windows and any other openings in the coop with heavy-duty metal cloth (a type of metal wire mesh).

If you suspect raccoons are entering through the coop door (they’re smart enough to do so), install a new lock or deadbolt that’s too complicated for them to figure out. 3. Do mothballs drive away raccoons? Mothballs are hit or miss as a raccoon deterrent. They are also dangerous for the raccoons and any other critters that might nibble (including your pets) as they contain chemical pesticides. 4. Do raccoons transmit diseases? Not always, but raccoons can transmit diseases like rabies and distemper. If you have pets that go outside, it’s important to keep them up to date on their vaccines in case they come into contact with a sick raccoon (or other wild animal).

When to call a pest controller

If raccoons are still roaming your yard despite these DIY methods, the only option left is to forcefully capture and remove the raccoons (without hurting them, of course).

You should always call a professional pest control company or animal control agency to deal with live traps, as raccoons can become aggressive if provoked. You don’t want to risk getting injured or getting sick.

It is also best to have professionals remove any raccoons that do get into your home. For one, you face the same dangers as if you caught them in the wild. Second, many raccoons hiding in attics, walls, or other enclosed spaces are nesting mothers. They don’t just want to remove the mother and let their babies die. Leave it to a professional to find, remove, and relocate them all safely.

Main image credit: edbo23 | Pixabay

In the spring, many small livestock species such as goats and sheep give birth to their offspring. This is also the time of year when coyotes tend to roam around looking for mates. The combination of these two events can lead to disaster. In this article, we discuss ways you can keep coyotes away from your farm and garden. Read on to learn more about this aspect of farm safety – how to get rid of coyotes on your property.

16 facts about coyotes

To successfully deal with coyotes, it helps to understand them. Here are some important concepts to keep in mind as you work to keep coyotes out of your inventory.

1. Coyotes can travel in packs, but they can also exist as loners.

2. Packs of coyotes typically live within a 2 square mile radius. Loners typically live within a 30-mile radius.

3. If you hear coyotes barking near you, they are close enough to damage you.

4. Coyotes tend to prey on small animals such as dogs and cats, poultry, goats, sheep, piglets, calves and foals.

5. These animals are not exclusively carnivores. You will also eat different types of crops including watermelon, apple, corn and others.

6. The alpha males and females in a pack are usually the ones who kill livestock. They don’t do this for fun. They do it to feed their young.

7. Coyote tracks are notable for not being rounded like the tracks of a dog or wolf. Also, their hind feet are significantly smaller than their front feet.

8. Coyotes rest during the day and hunt at night.

9. Coyotes weigh between 25 and 40 pounds.

10. Coyotes mate for life.

11. Coyotes breed annually early in spring.

12. The gestation period of coyotes is about two months.

13. Litters usually consist of 4 to 7 puppies. Occasionally a litter can contain up to 15 puppies.

14. When the coyote population has declined sharply, litters tend to be larger.

15. Coyotes are relatively short-lived. Less than half of the puppies born actually make it to adulthood. Adults usually don’t get older than three years.

16. Coyotes are quite smart, alert, wary, and very elusive.

Mix and match livestock shelter ideas for best results

Because coyotes are smart, alert, cautious, and elusive, keeping them away from your plants, pets, and livestock can be very difficult. They’re quick learners and quick adaptors, so it’s wise to have a varied bag of tricks to use against them.

Are you looking for the best way to get rid of coyotes on your property? Here are five proven ideas to try:

1. Add a guard animal

Guard animals can be very effective at keeping coyotes away from your livestock. Some choices in guard animals include:

Big herding dogs

donkey

llamas

The trick to being successful with these animals is that they bond with the sheep, goats, or other livestock you have to guard.

Remember that coyotes are the size of a medium-sized dog, so your guard dog should be large. Some of the best dogs for livestock guarding include:

Great Pyrenees

Komondor

Anatolian

Akbash

Large mongrel dogs can also be used, but it is important to remember that any type of dog intended as a guard dog should be introduced to the flock before they are two months old. This will help ensure a good bond and make dog training easier.

Llamas and donkeys have a strong, natural hatred of coyotes and will chase them away whenever they see them. If the coyote isn’t fast enough, a donkey or a llama will trample it and kill it.

If you use donkeys or llamas as guard animals, you must be careful to keep your dogs away from your herd or you may lose them because donkeys and llamas may dislike them more than coyotes do.

Also note that occasionally a donkey or a llama may attack your stock. It is important to start with a young guard animal that will bond with your sheep, goats, poultry or other stock.

Donkeys and other guard animals:

2. Put up strong, high fences

Good fences are good neighbors and good protection for your crops and stock. The key to a good coyote fence is to make sure it touches the ground or is even slightly burrowed at all points. It should also be fairly high because coyotes are good jumpers.

Attaching an electrical wire low to the ground on the outside of the fence will also prevent coyotes from hacking their way through the fence. A barbed wire strand at the top prevents them from effectively jumping over it. This type of fencing also keeps deer away from your plants.

3. Chemical and natural repellents have mixed results

Coyote repellents can be effective, but cannot be relied upon entirely. Adding repellents to your other efforts can help.

Some examples of repellents are strong-smelling chemical solutions or the more natural urine of bears or wolves. Spraying one of these solutions around your property can’t hurt, and it can help.

Department of Wildlife offers tips to keep coyotes away

4. Lights, noise, and action can scare away coyotes

Because coyotes are so wary, unexpected sounds, movements, and lights can turn them off. If you hear coyotes barking near you, you may be able to scare them from afar by sounding an air horn each time you hear them.

If you leave a talk radio station on in your barn at night, you can (somewhat) believe people are talking in your barn and cause them to give the area a wide berth. However, this cannot last long.

It’s important to mix your audio and visual deterrents so the coyotes don’t get too used to it. Other ideas include motion-activated alarms, water splashes, scary sounds, and the like.

Just keep in mind that it’s important to change and vary these deterrents often so the coyotes don’t get used to what happens when they approach.

5. Defend individual animals

In small flocks, sheep or goats can be fitted with collars containing a bitter-tasting substance that will deter coyotes if they make it to the animals and attack.

They usually go for the throat for a kill. Collars can also come equipped with a poison solution that will kill the coyote if it attacks, but using poison is always a risky business and can have unintended consequences.

Avoid attracting coyotes

In addition to protecting your livestock, be careful not to inadvertently encourage coyotes with sloppy habits to come onto your property. For example:

Store garbage cans safely in a locked shed until it’s almost time to pick up your garbage.

Make sure your trash can is strong, sturdy, and has a tight-fitting lid.

Don’t allow discarded bird seed to pile up around your bird feeders and keep the bird feeders high so coyotes cannot reach them.

Keep your pets indoors at night and accompany your small pets when they go out during the day.

Avoid leaving water bowls for your pets in your yard.

Secure your compost by storing it in sealed containers.

Don’t leave dog or cat food out overnight.

Always keep cats indoors.

How to get rid of coyotes on your property

Avoid cruel, dangerous deterrents

Some states allow the posting of baits containing sodium cyanide; However, this is an ineffective and ruthless solution as it can also kill pets and beneficial wildlife.

Of course, hunting may be permitted in some areas. If done in a sensible, safe, and sporting manner, it can be justified. Pinching legs is cruel and despicable and never acceptable.

Overall, it’s important to understand that killing coyotes isn’t really an effective way to deal with them. Additionally, in reasonable numbers, coyotes are valuable predators of pests such as rats, mice, and rabbits.

Keep in mind that if you kill and disturb members of a pack, floaters will quickly move into their territory and start a new pack. Also keep in mind that when the coyote population takes a hit, birth rates adjust to compensate.

For these reasons, discouraging and distracting coyotes is wiser and more effective than killing them.

Coexistence with coyotes