Is A Fogger Good For Crested Geckos? The 48 Correct Answer

Crested geckos are considered good reptiles for beginners because they are relatively inexpensive and easy to care for. They are comfortable at room temperature, can be housed in attractive terrariums or simple plastic tubs, and will eat a commercial diet that costs less than $20 a year to feed a single gecko. Below is some basic information to get you started!

Aside from being fun for beginners, crested geckos can be intriguing to experienced reptile keepers because of their wide variety of morphs or physical characteristics. They are extremely manageable and each has their own individual personality. They make a great practical pet or display pet for their equally nocturnal keepers.

New gecko care sheet

Whether you bought your first crested gecko from a pet store, a local breeder, or a trusted online source, there is an adjustment period for your new addition. It’s best to do your research BEFORE you bring home a new crested gecko! Although these geckos are easy to care for, they should not be viewed as a disposable pet. It is believed that with proper care they can live 30 years, so your new friend will have a long-term responsibility.

Make sure you have all your supplies ahead of time, such as B. Housing, decoration, food for crested geckos and insect dust. This will help ensure your new crested gecko has an easy and healthy transition into your care.

Crested Gecko Quick Start Guide Adult Size 4-5 inches KRL (without tail) 8+ inches overall (including tail) Weight Adult 32-60+ grams Tail 2-5 grams Temperature Range 70-82 Daytime Temperatures 65-75 Nighttime Temperatures Humidity Range 50-75 Daytime 75-100 at night after spraying Tank Size 20 gallons (US) +10 gallons per additional gecko Lighting Type Not required, but… Low UVB recommended Food Type Commercial Diet 3 times weekly Live food recommended twice monthly Activity Level Nocturnal Moderately active Lifespan 15+ years Low risk of disease

Crested Gecko Care & Feeding

It appears that some geckos adapt to new foods, flavors, and textures more slowly than others. Even those who have always eaten CGD (Crested Gecko Diet). Remember, they don’t always eat every day or on your schedule. First, rule out any possibility of disease, as this can reduce a crested gecko’s appetite. It’s a good idea to have a poop done for your new crested gecko. That means sending your vet a fresh fecal sample! This can be difficult if your gecko isn’t eating.

A typical feeding schedule is to offer a commercial (or supplemented homemade) diet every other night, and once a week you can offer pollinated and well-loaded insects such as crickets or roaches. Fresh fruit treats or fatty insects like waxworms can be fed once or twice a month, but make sure they make up 10% or less of the total ration.

If they’re just being stubborn, it’s important not to use baby food or sweeten the mix with honey or fresh fruit, as they may always be on the lookout for the sweet stuff, which isn’t as good for them as CGD. In my opinion I would rather skip a few meals to get them on CGD than give them an imbalanced diet which can lead to MBD and other health problems.

You can try hand-feeding them if you’re concerned about the weight, but this can result in them only eating if you let them “baby.”

Once they start eating CGD on their own (no sweeteners, no hand-feeding), you can offer pollinated crickets as a treat once a week. Just follow the label directions for mixing CGD if you are also feeding insects.

Here’s a simple guide to making sure your crested gecko is eating the right food from the start. Results may vary with other meal replacement powders. Please browse our nutrition section for tons of information on feeding, treats and dietary supplements.

temperature humidity

Crested geckos respond well to room temperature. You can overheat if given too much light or if you live in a warm area without air conditioning. A good range is mid-60s to mid-70s. Warmer temperatures result in more activity, increased appetite and increased growth.

Although they are nocturnal and do not require special lighting, crested geckos require a photoperiod, around 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. Increasing and decreasing depending on the season is fine; However, this may limit your breeding season to the summer months. Tighter control of lighting (and heat) can allow you to have a breeding season at any time of the year – but make sure the females get at least a 4-month ‘cooling off’ break between seasons. Check out our Heating & Lighting guide for more tips.

Crested geckos are a tropical species but don’t need constant high humidity; in captivity this can lead to respiratory infections. Heavy (80-90%) at night and lightly misting in the morning, allowing 50% drying during the day is sufficient. However, it’s a good idea to keep a bowl of water in the enclosure, especially if you live in an arid climate. Misting also encourages eating, so be careful not to skip this nightly routine. If you travel frequently or tend to forget, you can set up a hooded gecko tank with an automatic spray system like MistKing to spray once a night. or stronger at night and lighter during the day (morning works well).

It’s a lot easier to keep the room humidity at 50% than trying to mist every closet throughout the day to keep the humidity level up. Proper ventilation is essential to health, so make sure your tubs are properly ventilated too. This shouldn’t be a problem if you run a humidifier in the same rooms as your crested geckos.

quarantine

If you plan on eventually placing your gecko in a semi-natural vivarium, consider giving it a brief quarantine period in an appropriately sized Kritter Keeper on paper towels first to ensure it’s eating and pooping – which bodes well for a healthy one gecko is! That means they eat even when you don’t think they will.

It is absolutely necessary to quarantine new arrivals before placing them in the same enclosures as other crested geckos!

14 days should be the shortest quarantine time for a new gecko. One to three months is recommended before introducing them to other geckos.

Please read our website for more information! We have entire sections dedicated to housing, handling, health, feeding and breeding Crested Geckos!

Last modified: Mon 11 Nov 2019 at 09:35

Mister or Mister? Which one should I use?

Welcome to the Fogger and Mist buyer’s guide. They look similar, they function similarly, they even serve a similar purpose, but the subtle differences can make all the difference in your application. The purpose of this guide is to explain what misters and atomizers are, their differences, and when and how to use them. Our goal is to help you choose the most suitable solution for your needs.

Pictured: DIG Misting Nozzle on Barb. Pictured: DIG EXL Series Foggers

What are foggers and misters?

Misters and atomizers are irrigation devices that focus primarily on reducing temperatures and controlling humidity, rather than soil saturation. They produce water at lower volumes but operate at higher pressures (PSI). The low water volume in combination with the high pressure creates a mist/fog effect. While drip emitters and sprinklers are designed to wet the soil for plant intake.

The small water droplets allow for rapid evaporation, cooling the air and creating more moisture. Although these devices are popular in nurseries and greenhouses, they can also be used in a variety of applications.

Pictured: DIG Pot and Basket Mister with stake. Pictured: DIG Misting Nozzle on Barb

What is the difference between Foggers and Misters?

Think of the difference between a foggy morning and a light haze in the air. The fog, you might feel a few light drops and soon you might even be slightly covered with water. Fog, on the other hand, you can traverse and feel the temperature difference and possibly a humidity change, but you won’t feel as wet as if you walked through fog.

One of if not the most important aspect of these watering devices is the difference in the size of the water droplets. The unit of measure used to determine water droplet size is a micron. A micron is defined as 1 millionth of a meter or 1 thousandth of a millimeter (quite small!).

For size comparison, a single human hair is about 0.004 inches in diameter, or about 100 microns. For volume comparison, if you were to break up a gallon of water into water droplets, say 50 micron droplets, that would create about 68 billion fog droplets.

Fog particles are generally 50 microns or less (0.002 inch) in diameter. While fog droplets are composed of larger particles, 50 to 100 microns (0.002 to 0.004 in) in diameter.

Here is a brief table of the differences between atomizers and foggers:

Feature Fogger Mister Ideal for plants prone to root diseases ✓ ✗ Propagation from seeds and unrooted cuttings ✓ ✗ Propagation from rooted cuttings ✗ ✓ Cooling and humidity control ✓ ✓ Produces 50-100 micron droplets ✗ ✓ Produces 50 micron or fewer droplets ✓ ✗

When should I use both, or are there times when both could be used?

Due to the size of the water droplets, atomizers and nebulizers can be used in various applications to achieve more precise results. There are specific uses for fog machines, just like there are specific uses for atomizers. However, there are also applications where both would be suitable.

One of the most noticeable differences in recommended uses between misters and atomizers is where they’re used. Foggers are mainly recommended for indoor use. Atomizers, on the other hand, are mainly recommended for outdoor use. That being said, we realize that every system is unique and there will always be exceptions to every rule.

When and why you would use smoke machines:

Mist is a fantastic alternative to mist in certain applications for many reasons including germination and propagation in greenhouses. This is because misting can provide a more even wetting of the plants in your greenhouse without over-saturating the soil, reducing disease and fungus growth. Fog can penetrate deeper into leaves and is often more efficient than fog. Essentially, the very purpose of a greenhouse is to create a controlled environment for optimal plant growth and development; and in that regard, foggers are also great for cooling the environment.

Misters are recommended for plants prone to root disease, propagation from seeds and unrooted cuttings. This is because foggers are better at controlling and building up moisture, keeping the root area and foliage moist without completely saturating the soil.

Misters are used in overhead applications and are generally mounted or suspended from the overhead supply line of a greenhouse, nursery or hoop house.

Here are some examples of using foggers in different applications:

For greenhouse applications this includes: evaporative cooling, propagation, pesticide application and fungicide application

Orchard: evaporative cooling, foliar treatment, pesticide application and fungicide application

When and why would you use Mister:

Pictured: DIG Ocean Breeze Kit. Pictured: DIG Ocean Breeze Kit

Mist is commonly used for temperature control in outdoor areas such as decks, patios, pools and animal shelters/pens, and for some irrigation applications. The small droplets are perfect for delicate plant foliage, such as ferns or some ground covers, where traditional sprinklers can damage the plant structure too much.

One application that spray mists are particularly recommended for is the propagation of rooted cuttings. This is because fog covers the leaves and stems to stay constantly moist but not soggy.

Nebulizers, when used for cooling purposes, should be mounted higher, about 8-12 feet above the head for best results. It is also recommended to install the atomizing nozzle at an angle of 90-120 degrees to the ground. Ideally, you want the fog to evaporate before it even hits the ground.

Spraying plants, as mentioned earlier, can be done overhead or on a riser above the plant canopy and it is often recommended to install it at a 70 degree angle or upright to allow the mist to fall easily on the plants, before evaporation occurs.

For densely planted areas or for maximum cooling effect, it is recommended to place the atomizers close together for full, overlapping and even coverage. It is not recommended to use them in windy areas, as the small droplets can be easily dispersed in the air, even in low to moderate winds, the wind can negatively affect the uniformity and performance.

One of the main advantages of nebulizers is that a relatively large number can be operated at the same time. It is recommended to space them every 2-4 feet for optimal coverage. As a note, you should confirm that the tubing or main line in your system can handle the volume of water (GPH) you will be using, as this will dictate the limitations on how many nebulizers can be installed in one line.

Times when both could be used:

Pictured: Antelco Vari-Jet Mister on Flex Assembly. Pictured: DIG Fogger on a barb bow

Atomizers and misters can be used in pots, hanging baskets and anywhere overhead watering is recommended. These are great for plants that need constant humidity or a specific humidity level. They are both available with barbed or threaded connections, making them compatible with a variety of different systems.

How do I choose a mist or atomizer?

There are a few factors to consider when looking for a fogger or atomizer; including the purpose of the device, droplet size, water volume and PSI range.

First, you should determine, based on your application, whether you are looking for evaporative (mist) temperature control or humidity (mist) control.

Next, you should consider the droplet size (measured in microns) that best suits your needs. Again, use the application to best determine if you want larger or smaller droplets. Do you want to water the plants, cool the air or control the humidity? Different droplet sizes correspond to different effects.

Third, you should consider the amount of water you need. When you’re cooling an area, the volume of water isn’t usually a big issue as it evaporates before it hits the ground. However, if you’re watering the plants or controlling the humidity, the amount of water (gallons per hour) produced by the watering device plays a role.

The final factor to consider is pressure (PSI). Many foggers and atomizers operate at a higher pressure range to achieve the desired performance. The higher pressures create the fog or fog-like effects. Whether you have an existing system or are installing a new system, you should ensure that you can provide the pressure required to operate the equipment.

Reptiles of all types require certain conditions to survive and thrive as pets, and a mist and humidifier is a must-have accessory for any reptile enclosure. High humidity is biologically essential for most amphibians and reptiles and prevents problems such as dehydration, respiratory diseases and skin shedding.

A spray bottle is commonly used among reptile owners to add moisture and moisture, but this will not be enough in the long run. A fogger and humidifier will make the job a lot easier and keep your pet’s cage at a constant level of humidity to keep them healthy and happy.

Finding the right mister and humidifier for your beloved pet can be stressful, but don’t worry! We’ve compiled this list of in-depth reviews to help you find the right one for your unique needs.

A quick comparison of our favorites for 2022

Image Product Details Best Zoo Med Reptile Fogger Terrarium Humidifier Easy to Install Leak Proof Valve Easy Refillable Bottle Check Price Best Value VIVOSUN Reptile Humidifier Adjustable Flow Rate Automatically shuts off when water runs out Adjustable hose with suction cups Check Price Premium Choice REPTI ZOO Reptile Mister Fogger Large water capacity Adjustable and customizable spray nozzle Built-in timer Check price Evergreen Reptile Humidifier/Mist Adjustable mist output Auto shut-off when tank is empty Easy setup Check price PETSPIONEER Reptile Humidifier Timer and memory function Large tank capacity Auto-off function Check price

The 6 best foggers and humidifiers for reptiles

1. Zoo Med Reptile Fogger Terrarium Humidifier – Best Overall Check Price at Chewy Check Price at Amazon Simply plug in the unit, fill with distilled water, adjust the output flow to the desired setting, and place the adjustable hose in your case. It has a leak-proof valve and an easy-to-refill bottle for a mess-free setup. It produces a massive amount of fog and doesn’t spit water into your tank like many other foggers do.

Keep in mind that this smoke machine doesn’t have a built-in timer, so you’ll have to turn it on and off manually. The pipe has no attachment to attach it to the case and if it is not held perfectly vertical water can drip out of the pipe.

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Disadvantages

2. VIVOSUN Reptile Humidifier – Best Value Check price at Chewy Check price at Amazon It has a tank that can hold 2.5 liters of water and automatically shuts off when the water is gone. Vivosun has a completely silent operating unit, and the amount of mist up to 300ml per hour can be adjusted to suit your individual needs. The fog tube is also adjustable in length and features a suction cup for easy attachment to the tank. The water in the tank lasts up to 24 hours at the lowest level, so you don’t have to constantly refill it.

Some users report that accordion tubing can become saturated with moisture fairly quickly and leak if not placed properly. This buildup of moisture will eventually prevent the mist from coming out properly, and that keeps it from the top spot on our list.

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3. REPTI ZOO Reptile Mister Fogger — Premium Choice Check price at Chewy Check price at Amazon The REPTI ZOO TR05 is a complete fogging solution, giving you everything you could want in a fogger and humidifier. It has a massive 10 liter water tank that’s clear so you’ll know when it’s time to refill. The super silent pump works quietly to provide your pet with a quiet and comfortable environment. It features a special 360-degree timed spray nozzle with a multi-angle setting that sprays water at timed intervals to closely mimic your pet’s natural habitat. The setup can run up to 20 nozzles, making it ideal for large enclosures. A built in timer and adjustable push button give you the ultimate in customization to meet the needs of any reptile. The water bottle can be refilled easily and quickly from the top.

This is a premium product with a premium price tag. The high cost keeps it from the top two positions on our list.

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4. Evergreen Reptile Humidifier/Fogger Check price at Chewy Check price at Amazon This humidifier and fogger from Evergreen Pet Supplies features adjustable mist output control of up to 300ml per hour to allow for a fully customized environment for your reptiles . The water tank holds up to 2 liters of water and features a leak-proof valve for mess-free refilling. The device turns off when the water runs out, the output hose can be up to 5 feet long, and there are two suction cups so you can securely place the hose wherever you need it. This device is also quick and easy to set up, so you can be using it right out of the box in minutes.

Refilling the water bottle is a little tricky as you have to remove the hose and tank and then flip the whole thing over and fill from the bottom. You probably have to do this on a daily basis, so it can get tiresome. Several users report that this device is leaking heavily.

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5. PETSPIONEER Reptile Humidifier Check price at Chewy Check price at Amazon This PETSPIONEER reptile humidifier has an intermittent timing function for the mist frequency, and the timer has a memory function, so you don’t have to reset it every time he turns off. Refilling is easy – water is poured in at the top to allow for a clean fill – and the tank has a large 4 liter capacity giving up to 12 hours of misting time at around 300ml per hour. It also has an auto shut off function when the tank is empty and works quietly. The fog tube itself comes in two separate pieces that keep your tank setup neat and tidy, and it can be extended up to 5.3 feet with handy suction cups for easy installation.

Some users report that this fogger started leaking shortly after purchase, both from the tube and from the machine itself, and with such a large reservoir that it can create a mess in and around your reptile’s enclosure.

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6. Coospider Reptile Fogger Check price at Chewy Check price at Amazon This Coospider fogger features a large 3 liter water tank and an adjustable hose that extends up to 6.3 feet with two suction cups for easy and safe installation extends. It also has an auto shut off feature when the water runs out and an indicator light to let you know when it needs to be refilled. A rotating, adjustable mist function on the front makes adjustment a breeze, and mist output is constant and even, delivering a fine, cool mist.

Refilling the water can be difficult as refilling requires complete disassembly of the unit. Some users report leaks from the bottom of the water tank and the mist hose. Although the machine produces a large amount of fog, the dial doesn’t have much variation in settings. It also takes up a lot of space due to the hefty tank.

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shopping guide

Most reptiles need a high humidity enclosure to stay healthy and happy. They can have serious health issues when trapped in dry tanks, such as hair loss issues and respiratory problems. Reptiles are cold-blooded, so they cannot regulate their own body temperature. This means they rely entirely on the ambient temperature and humidity of their environment to stay healthy. For this reason, a humidifier and fogger are must-have accessories for your reptile friend.

Why buy a fog machine?

Many reptiles, naturally living in humid environments, do not drink from a stagnant reservoir of water, instead deriving their hydration from the moisture in the air. The easiest way to achieve humidity in your reptile’s enclosure is with a simple hand held spray bottle. Of course, with a large enclosure or multiple enclosures, this can be difficult every day. If you have a large pet or time is an issue, an automatic fogger is a far better option, both for you and your pets.

A fogger will automatically provide the moisture your pets need, consistently creating the essential droplets of water on the side of the tank for them to drink from. An ultrasonic humidifier is preferred as it does not heat the mist but instead provides a cool mist.

There are a few important things to consider when purchasing a fog machine and humidifier.

Adjustable functionality

Ideally, you want the fogger to be adjustable, as different reptiles have different humidity and wetness requirements. An adjustable machine allows you to control both the flow rate and the amount of mist entering the enclosure to meet your pet’s unique needs.

An auto shut off feature is also important as running without water in the tank will quickly burn out your machine.

capacity

The larger the capacity of your machine, the longer you can run it before it needs to be refilled. The bigger the tank the better, but a bigger tank takes up more space. Ideally, the tank should be easy and quick to fill, with the fill point at the top. Some tanks require you to disassemble the machine to refill, which can be messy and very inconvenient. The mist coming out of the tank will create moisture in the exit hose, and this hose should be tight to avoid mess.

Hose

The hose on your fogger should be adjustable so you can place it in the ideal spot in your reptile’s enclosure. Machines that come with suction cups on the hose also make installation much easier and quicker.

Instructions for using humidifier and fogger

Always use distilled water. Aside from being free of chemical toxins, distilled water is free of calcium and other minerals that can quickly clog your machine and prevent it from working properly. You should never give tap water to your reptiles as it contains heavy metals and chlorine, among other things, which are potentially harmful to your reptiles. If it’s an emergency, you can use tap water in conjunction with a dechlorinator, which removes some chemicals from the water.

Aside from being free of chemical toxins, distilled water is free of calcium and other minerals that can quickly clog your machine and prevent it from working properly. You should never give tap water to your reptiles as it contains heavy metals and chlorine, among other things, which are potentially harmful to your reptiles. If it’s an emergency, you can use tap water in conjunction with a dechlorinator, which removes some chemicals from the water. Use a timer. While decent humidity is essential for your reptile’s enclosure, constant misting is not healthy for most. Your enclosure needs to dry, and a timer prevents the fog machine from running all the time without you having to do it manually.

While decent humidity is essential for your reptile’s enclosure, constant misting is not healthy for most. Your enclosure needs to dry, and a timer prevents the fog machine from running all the time without you having to do it manually. Use the smoke machine at night. When possible, the fogger is best used during nighttime hours, as daytime fogging can drive the temperature in your reptile’s enclosure dangerously high.

When possible, the fogger is best used during nighttime hours, as daytime fogging can drive the temperature in your reptile’s enclosure dangerously high. Familiarize yourself with power cord safety. It is common for foggers and humidifiers to leak from both the machine itself and the hose. By hanging the power cord coming from the machine in a U-shape between it and the outlet, any drips will collect below instead of flowing towards the outlet and there is a risk of electric shock.

Conclusion

The winner of our tests for the best reptile mist and humidifier is Zoo Med’s Ultrasonic Mist Humidifier. Easy to set up, it features a leak-proof valve, an easy-to-refill bottle for a clean setup, and an adjustable flow knob for a specific fit . This gives your reptile a perfect humidity controlled environment.

The best reptile blower and humidifier for the money goes to the Vivosun. With its 2.5L water tank volume, adjustable flow rate and silent operation, it offers you excellent fog quality that won’t break the bank.

Choosing the right fogger for your reptile can be a stressful experience as you want a product that will both perform well and offer consistency to your pet’s needs. Hopefully our in-depth reviews have helped narrow down the options so you can find the best nebulizer and humidifier to meet your pet’s unique needs.

At first glance, there doesn’t seem to be much of a difference between high-pressure fog pumps and fog pumps. Each consists of fine droplets created with the right combination of flow, pressure and nozzle size. But the difference is so big that it’s important to emphasize where they’re best and how to achieve them.

Here we’ll cover how mist and fog pumps differ – and how they might not be – when it comes to droplet size, coverage, accuracy, and other factors so you can understand where each is best suited. We will also help you determine the correct pump and nozzle size.

What is the difference between shoeing and shoeing?

It may seem an elementary question, but it is important to first understand how nebulizers and nebulizers differ. It mainly depends on the droplet size:

Mist pumps produce ultra-small droplets, around 1-10 microns.

Mist pumps produce slightly larger droplet sizes, around 10-100 microns.

Because fog has smaller droplets, it basically floats in the air and randomly settles on surfaces without any rhyme or reason. A nebula does not have enough mass to maintain a constant speed through the air. It can be helpful to imagine the smoke from a cigar or the steam from a pot of boiling water. It is nearly impossible to determine the nebula’s trajectory or where it will land. Simply put, Nebula lacks accuracy and goes where it pleases.

A nebula, on the other hand, has droplets just large enough that they don’t “float” away. Instead, a fog pump can aim its trajectory and direct the fog onto surfaces or areas with relative accuracy. This is critical in applications where even coverage is required, such as: B. Herbicide applications where overspray could damage surrounding vegetation or result in non-compliance with environmental regulations.

High pressure mist pump applications

Common applications for mist pumps are:

outdoor cooling. For outdoor venues, whether it’s a large festival or the average patio, mist fans help provide relief from hot temperatures through evaporative cooling.

dust suppression. A fine mist forms a “curtain” or barrier within a zone. To overcome dust control challenges, you want the droplets to be similar in size to the dust particles so that they stick to them. Therefore, it is important to understand the type of dust particles you are working with.

Disinfection. When disinfecting surfaces, accurate coverage is critical to ensure all pathogens are destroyed. An atomizer can precisely control the distribution of chemicals, but it’s important to use a chemically compatible pump.

greenhouses. When propagating small seedlings, a fine mist is perfect to suppress fungal diseases and maintain the right moisture level in the growing medium, while a regular sprayer could damage fine plant tissue.

pest control. Combined with the right flow rates, pressures and nozzles, atomized mist droplets are accurately dispensed to ensure strict compliance with regulations for mosquito control and other pest control products.

fertigation and herbicide application. Mist pumps enable the delivery of potentially harmful chemicals with pinpoint accuracy and consistent spray patterns to promote optimal growing conditions.

Applications for high pressure mist pumps

In general, the need for a smoke machine is not that common, but there are applications where it is desirable.

moisture control. Some environments require high humidity, from greenhouses to animal enclosures in zoos, and nebulizers are a great solution.

special effects. Whether it’s a theatrical performance meant to mimic the streets of London or an outdoor water feature trying to create a tropical, mist-like atmosphere, foggers help add visual interest.

The importance of choosing the right nozzle

The first step to getting the coverage you want is choosing the right pump. If you don’t use a pump with the right PSI and flow rate, you’ll end up with larger droplet sizes. Often a pump produces more flow than necessary, necessitating the use of a regulator.

From there, however, it comes down to filtering out the difference between creating a mist and fog by choosing the right nozzle size. A mist requires a smaller nozzle than a mist.

To get the right droplet size you need to build up enough back pressure created by the nozzle. It is the combination of pressure, flow and the nozzle working together that results in either fog or haze. This underscores the importance of using a pump performance chart when determining which nozzle size to use.

Choosing the Best Mist and Mist Pump

In case you haven’t guessed it, high pressure fog system pumps and high pressure fog systems are typically one and the same. However, you must choose a high-pressure pump designed to produce the right amount of flow and pressure, and choose the right nozzle to achieve the desired droplet size. The flow and pressure must also be constant without cycling or pressure spikes that result in poor coverage or droplet “spitting”.

One of the best pumps for fogging and nebulizing is the Pumptec 113C Series pump – originally designed to provide evaporative cooling in fog tents for the Atlanta 1996 Olympics. Its generally low flow rate of 0.25 GPM with a pressure of up to 1000 PSI combined with a 0.008 (0.2mm) nozzle creates perfectly sized atomized droplets for misting. Changing the nozzle to 0.004 (0.1mm) will produce even smaller droplets resulting in a mist.

The 113C Series pump’s compact size and battery powered capabilities make it ideal for stationary or portable applications, and its durable design and components ensure it will last for many years. It can also be customized for specific applications.

Mist pumps have many benefits, but as you can see there is a lot to consider depending on the application. To learn more about the different types of pumps and where they fit best, check out our pump comparison cheat sheet below. Then speak to one of our pump experts to discuss flow rates, pressure, nozzle sizes, chemical compatibility, and other considerations when choosing a fog or mist pump.

Crested geckos (Correlophus ciliatus) are very popular reptiles to keep as pets. These lizards can occasionally stop eating for a period of time, which can be worrying for their owner. So how long can crested geckos go without food?

Crested geckos can go up to 3 weeks without food. After the second week, however, a veterinarian should be consulted. Crested geckos can only survive 3 days without water. Crested geckos can stop eating for many reasons, but environmental stress is a common causal factor.

In this article, we’ll examine what your crested geckos should be eating and drinking. We’ll also learn more about the reasons crested geckos may stop eating normally.

How long can crested geckos go without food?

Crested geckos, like many reptiles, don’t need to eat every day. In fact, it is advisable to only feed them every other day. The best time to offer food is in the evening when they are most likely to eat.

Crested Gecko Age How many times a week should they eat? How long can they go without food? Cub 0-2 months 6-7 times a week after the first moult. 2-3 days (but possibly up to 6 days, right after hatching). They eat after the first moult. have food ready. Baby Juvenile 2-6 months 5-6 times a week 5 days. Visit the vet after 3 days. Adolescents 6-12 months 4-5 times a week. 1 week. Visit the vet after 5 days. Sub-adult 12-18 months 3-4 times per week. Food intake can drop drastically during this time. 2 weeks or so. Visit the vet after 1 week. Older adults 18 months and older 2-3 times per week. 3 weeks. Visit the vet after 2 weeks.

How long can adult crested geckos go without food?

Crested geckos can stop eating for a number of reasons, and this is usually not a cause for concern. However, if the gecko continues to not eat for 2 weeks, it’s time to consult the vet. It’s possible that the vet will advise you to continue monitoring your crested gecko, but at least the problem will be noticed and the vet can respond quickly if the situation worsens.

In most cases, the gecko will resume feeding before 3 weeks have elapsed. They usually stop feeding when introduced to a new habitat or when changes are made in their environment. It may take a few weeks for them to get used to this change.

You can help them with this process by making sure the humidity, temperature, lighting levels, etc. are correct. You should also disturb your gecko as little as possible.

How long can a juvenile crested gecko go without food?

Young crested geckos, from hatchling to hatchling, need to be fed more frequently than subadult and adult geckos. You can offer food to young crested geckos every day. Offer food in the evening when they are most likely to eat and remove it during the day when they are less active.

As they get older, start punctuating your feeding schedule with days off. Eventually, when they are under-adult, they should only eat every other day.

If you notice signs of obesity, or your weighing schedule shows your baby is gaining weight too quickly, feed him less often.

Since young crested geckos have to eat more often, you should not leave them without food for so long, even if they refuse to eat. Call the vet earlier for advice. You can consult the chart above for some useful guidance on when to involve the vet.

Note, however, that newborn hatchlings may not eat immediately. It usually only starts eating after the first shed. This is generally around 2-3 days after hatching but can take longer.

Nevertheless, you should ensure that your young animal has access to fresh food and water.

Juvenile crested geckos cannot go as long without food as adult crested geckos older than 18 months.

Can my crested gecko become overweight or underweight?

Yes, crested geckos can become obese or underweight. It’s important to weigh your crested gecko and track its growth or body changes over time. Weigh your gecko about once a month.

An efficient way to weigh a gecko is to provide a container large enough to fit on the scale. Tare the scale so that it reads zero with the container on it.

Then place the gecko in the container and close it. Wait for a stable reading and record the gecko’s weight. Track changes over time.

If the gecko’s weight only changes by a few grams or stays the same, everything is fine. However, if rapid weight loss occurs, you need to contact your veterinarian.

Signs of overweight or underweight in crested geckos

The crested gecko’s tail should appear rounded. While young geckos may be slimmer and show their rib cage, this is a sign of underweight in an adult gecko. The gecko should appear rounder as it grows.

An overweight crested gecko will show signs of fat in its legs. The legs should not have fat chubs and buns.

How much should my crested gecko weigh?

Age of the crested gecko Approximate healthy weight 0-2 month hatchling 1.5-2 grams 2 month hatchling 3 gram 3 month hatchling 4 gram 4 month hatchling 5 gram 5 month hatchlings 7 gram 6-9 month hatchlings 9-17 gram 9-12 hatchlings Months 16-30 grams Adolescent 12-18 months 30-50 grams Adult 18+ months 35-55 grams 65+ grams = obese

Why isn’t my crested gecko eating?

The most common answer is that your gecko is stressed by the environment and has simply stopped eating for a short time. However, there may also be signs of illness or natural bodily functions that are preventing your gecko from eating. Let’s take a closer look at what could be wrong:

Ecological damage

A common reaction to moving to a new habitat is that a crested gecko will stop eating. It may take up to a couple of weeks for the problem to resolve itself, but should be fine.

Check that the temperature, light and humidity in the habitat are correct. Make sure the habitat is an appropriate size. The key is to ensure that the habitat meets the crested gecko’s needs and disturbs it as little as possible while your pet settles in.

social stress

Your gecko may be subject to bullying if it’s part of a group. This social stress could cause him to stop eating. Lack of food can be more chronic than environmental stress because the cause of the stress is ongoing.

Check your gecko for scratches and bites. Observe the behavior of the group.

If you find your gecko being bullied, separate them from the group. The gecko may take some time to recover and eat again after being separated.

Spill

It is very common for reptiles to stop eating during their shedding period. If your crested gecko has stopped eating, wait about a day for the shed to finish before worrying unduly.

impaction

In the unfortunate event that your gecko ate something it couldn’t digest, it could get stuck in them. This is called impaction and is dangerous.

Signs of impaction include very sudden weight gain as food builds up in the digestive tract, coupled with constipation. A crested gecko should go to the bathroom 3-4 times a week. The abdomen may look swollen and the gecko will suddenly stop eating.

If this happens, try gently massaging your crested gecko’s abdomen. Only feed him liquid foods and try to increase hydration. If the impaction isn’t over within a few days, call the vet.

You can avoid impaction by only feeding invertebrates that are narrower than the width between your gecko’s eyes. It is also advisable to avoid loose substrates that could be choked. This is especially important for young crested geckos.

disease and infection

This is also a possible cause of your gecko not eating. Watch out for vomiting, diarrhea, foul-smelling faeces, and lethargic behavior. If you suspect your pet is ill, you should call the vet.

parasites

The signs of parasites in your gecko’s digestive tract are similar to those of other diseases. If you notice your crested gecko having problems with vomiting, diarrhea, or constipation, intestinal parasites may be present. Often the waste products smell much worse than usual.

Contact your veterinarian with this problem as soon as possible. It would be very useful to collect a fecal sample and take it to the vet appointment as it will likely need to be tested.

mouth rot (ulcerative stomatitis)

Mouth rot occurs when tiny cuts around your gecko’s mouth become infected. It’s a fairly common health complaint in crested geckos. Signs of mouth rot include redness and mucus around the mouth.

The infection must be treated with antibiotics. Contact your vet if you notice these signs.

This is what a healthy gecko mouth should look like. As you can see there are no sores or infections in the mouth or on the “lips”. Also, there is no slime to indicate that this crested gecko has mouth rot.

stage of life

Young animals usually only eat after the first molt. Don’t worry if newborn geckos don’t eat for the first few days.

Juvenile geckos, approaching adulthood, eat a large quantity. You need to gain a lot of weight in a short period of time. After that, they may suddenly decrease their food intake. This sudden reduction can be alarming as you are used to your gecko eating more.

However, it can be completely normal. Continue to monitor their weight and body condition to see if they are starting to lose weight or just keeping it off.

Seasonal Changes

Related to environmental stress, seasonal changes in crested geckos can also lead to periods of non-feeding. Although geckos are in captivity, they are still sensitive to the changing seasons. In the fall and winter, they may show decreased appetite and activity.

breed

In many species, the males are often very fixated on mating rituals at the beginning of a breeding season. Even in separate enclosures, geckos are likely to notice the presence of other mature geckos nearby. They may stop eating when they sense an opportunity to mate.

In addition, women may stop eating in the days leading up to ovulation or egg laying. Related to social stress, they may also stop eating if they don’t get a break from the attention of male geckos in their enclosure.

Wrong diet

Your crested gecko may have stopped eating just because you fed it the wrong things.

Crested geckos are omnivores, which means they can eat both meat and plants. In their natural habitat, their diet consists almost entirely of a variety of insects. However, they also eat some fruits.

In captivity, Crested Geckos thrive very well on high quality premixed powdered foods. This is often referred to as CGD (Crested Gecko Diet). These contain the perfect balance of nutrients, vitamins and minerals.

Avoid feeding CGDs that contain wheat, bran, or rice as these bulk foods are not suitable for your gecko.

Crested geckos have been shown to survive just fine on this premixed diet alone, but that doesn’t mean it’s a good idea to feed them CGD exclusively.

Research has shown that juvenile crested geckos gain more weight when fed a natural diet of calcium-dusted roaches with papaya than when fed only a CGD powder mix. (Atamian, 2020).

In addition, a varied diet is important to be mentally stimulated. Wouldn’t you get bored of eating if you only got soup every day?

Including live invertebrate foods in your gecko’s diet will also give them better nutrition and physical and mental stimulation.

Fruit can be given more as a treat, as quality CGDs should contain all of the vitamins found in fruit. Let’s delve deeper into what fruits, invertebrates, and feeds we should be feeding.

What live feed should I give my crested gecko?

Here is a list of safe invertebrates to feed your crested gecko live:

grilling

grasshoppers

cockroaches

stick insects

blowflies

nutri pits

snails

Waxworms (high in fat)

Silkworms (rich in fat)

A good rule of thumb is to release invertebrates into the gecko’s observed habitat. Give the gecko as many as it will eat within 15 minutes.

Do not leave insects in the terrarium after this point, as hungry insects could bite your gecko’s sensitive skin. With a little trial and error, you’ll learn the approximate amount your gecko needs.

Juvenile and subadult crested geckos have the same diet as adult crested geckos. Of course, they should be fed smaller pieces of food.

Some owners prefer to feed a higher percentage of live food over CGD to youngsters. This is because evidence suggests that high protein intake supports growth and weight gain during the growth phase.

Which Invertebrates Should You Avoid Feeding Your Crested Gecko?

Mealworms and superworms are not the best choices to feed your crested gecko as they have a tough exoskeleton. This can be difficult for the crested gecko to digest.

Avoid feeding invertebrates that are wider than the distance between your crested gecko’s eyes. This distance is an approximation of the width of your gecko’s throat. Prey that is wider can lodge in the gecko’s throat or digestive tract, causing an impaction.

Some invertebrate species have higher fat content than others. Crickets, grasshoppers, roaches, nutri pits, and the like can often be included as staples in your gecko’s diet. Limit the use of silkworms and waxworms as they are so high in fat.

It is possible to overfeed a crested gecko as it stores fat in its tail and can become overweight.

Do not feed live invertebrates unless you have gutted them. Gut loading means feeding and hydrating the invertebrates for 24 hours before giving them to the gecko.

The gecko not only eats the live food, but also the entire contents of its stomach. This is a great way to provide extra moisture and nutrients. Special intestinal loading mixtures or plants can be used.

Never feed wild-caught invertebrates to your gecko as they can transmit diseases or pollutants. This could make your pet very ill. It is always advisable to buy live feeds from a reputable seller.

What fruits can I feed my crested gecko?

Again, there is a lot of discussion about this. A good rule of thumb is to feed “as a treat.” However, for some pet owners this means several times a week and for others once a month.

Since you feed your geckos once every other day, that makes a total of 3 or 4 feedings per week. My advice then would be to incorporate fruit 2-4 times a month.

So once a week or once every two weeks. This is a conservative and safe recommendation so don’t overdo it.

Fruit is usually delivered to crested geckos mashed. You can put it in the same type of food bowl you would use for water or CGD mix. Fill the bowl with the same amount of fruit as if you were giving the CGD mix.

Here is a list of safe fruits to feed your crested gecko:

blueberries

pears

papaya

strawberries

mango

raspberries

Cowardly

blackberries

Grapes

apples

melon

cherries

pomegranate

What Fruits Should You Avoid Feeding Your Crested Gecko?

Never feed your crested gecko citrus fruits or bananas. These fruits can inhibit calcium absorption or cause diarrhea.

Also, never feed avocado as it contains persin (a fungicidal toxin) and this could be harmful. Star fruit is also a bad idea since it contains such high levels of oxalate. Rhubarb is also poisonous to crested geckos and many other animals.

It’s easy to give your gecko too much fruit and accidentally provide high levels of oxalic acid or vitamin C. This is especially true as modern CGD blends are comprehensive and meet all the nutritional needs that the fruit could have provided.

Do not give your gecko unwashed fruit. It could be coated with harmful chemicals like pesticides. Always rinse it out first.

While there is some disagreement among Crested Geko enthusiasts as to which fruits are beneficial or harmful, everyone agrees that citrus fruits should be avoided. The most popular and commonly fed fruits seem to be papaya, mango and berries.

Could a crested gecko starve?

Generally, a crested gecko does not starve. It has a biological survival instinct and will not refuse food to the point of starvation without reason. Crested geckos, in particular, are fairly hardy reptiles and don’t tend to get sick frequently or die easily.

If your crested gecko has not eaten for a long period of time and is losing weight, you may worry that it will literally starve to death.

By this point, you should already have consulted the veterinarian. However, there are many potential issues that you can address and try to resolve so your gecko can start eating again.

How long can crested geckos go without water?

Crested geckos can only survive 3 days without water. Therefore, stopping your gecko from drinking is a much more serious problem.

There are 3 ways to provide your crested gecko with water:

First, you should always have a fresh supply of drinking water in the habitat.

Change it when you feed the gecko (every other day) unless it looks a bit dirty, in which case change it sooner of course.

Second, you should mist the enclosure to maintain proper humidity.

60-80% humidity is a good level for the habitat to reach when sprayed with water. The tank should dry out to at least 40% humidity between sprays.

Depending on factors like the size of your tank and the substrate you choose, you may need to spray daily or even more frequently. Crested geckos are more likely to take in water by licking droplets from their bodies or their surroundings than by drinking from deep in the water bowl.

Finally, crested geckos can absorb water from the bodies of invertebrates that you feed them as live food.

It’s important to give your invertebrates a good load of live food, giving them a good meal and liquid before feeding them to the geckos.

Can crested geckos survive on vacation without food?

The short answer is no, you can’t. Despite the fact that crested geckos can go up to 3 weeks without food, that doesn’t mean it’s okay to go away and not feed them.

Geckos can stop eating for a variety of reasons, and some of them are nothing to worry about. However, this must be because the gecko decided to stop eating, not because you are depriving it of food.

Also, keep in mind that geckos can only survive for about 3 days without water and need frequent spraying to keep them hydrated. In addition, they can get sick or injured, and when you’re on vacation you wouldn’t be there to notice and take care of them.

If you’re going on vacation, make sure a friend who knows crested geckos visits them every day. You can check if your beloved pets are doing well, give them treats and send you updates!

If you want to know what you can do with your crested gecko on vacation, read our article about it here.

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As if their unique spiny, ruffled, and tongue-in-cheek charm wasn’t enough, crested geckos naturally change color to become even more beautiful before your very eyes. Read on to find out what this process is called and why it takes place.

What does “cheer on” mean?

Crested geckos are nocturnal, so when they wake up in the evening, it’s their time to shine! When your Crestie wakes up, he or she will fire, signifying an intensification of their skin tones. This is when your gecko has the richest variation in pigmentation and color.

Think of booting up as similar to booting up a computer, turning on a cell phone, or starting a car. When it’s active, it’s “fired!” If you want to see your gecko change color in the aquarium without disturbing him or her, install a blue or black light.

What is “shoot down”?

It follows that if a crested gecko ignites at night when it is most active, it will ignite during the day when it’s time to go to sleep. Firing is a form of stealth. Because it’s lighter during the day when crowns are dormant, a lighter color helps them blend in during times when they’re less active and more vulnerable.

Think of it firing much like the human torch that would say, “Flame out!” when he was done fighting crime for the day. Some Cresties seem to be firing up or down all the time, which is perfectly normal. But remember that they also change color in response to stress and mood.

Are you looking for someone to look after your crested gecko in the evening? Contact us to make arrangements for a pet sitter to check on your Crestie at night.

—

Candace Elise Hoes is a pet sitter and blogger at Katie’s Kitty. She is a graduate of the MFA Writing Program at the California College of the Arts.

Image by Karen Arnold from Pixabay

As a new Leo owner, you’re probably wondering how to keep him hydrated and comfortable. They provide him with water and ensure that the temperature in the habitat is appropriate.

You’re wondering if your leopard gecko could use a little fog too, especially in muggy weather conditions. But is fogging necessary?

Do leopard geckos need to be sprayed? Yes, leopard geckos need the occasional misting to keep them hydrated and to aid in shedding. Misting also increases humidity and moisture levels in the habitat to ease the arduous shedding. Foggers are available as both manual and automatic systems.

Your leopard gecko’s moisture needs should be met with occasional puffs of mist either directly on the body or in the habitat. He will be able to lick small drops of water running down his head to help with hydration and loosen his old skin.

Read on to learn more about spraying your leopard gecko.

1. Do leopard geckos need to be sprayed?

Leopard geckos originate from arid or non-tropical terrain; However, they do enjoy a little mist to keep cool and content. It is recommended that adult geckos be sprayed twice a week or when they are preparing to molt. Moisture or wet boxes eliminate the need to spray adult leopard geckos.

Cubs and baby Leos up to three months of age need to be misted daily, even with moisture or a damp box. Because baby lion skin sheds frequently, it’s important to keep it moist to facilitate shedding.

A baby lion doesn’t necessarily need to go into a damp or damp box to molt at this stage. It happens especially when they share habitat with a hostile habitat partner. To help them, along with the molting process, fogging is required.

A good time to gently spray your leopard gecko is when they are about to shed. Remember that only a little spray is required. The gentle mist evaporates quickly and won’t harm your leopard gecko.

To avoid common problems like stuck or partial detachment, owners usually spray their leopard geckos and their habitats.

2. Shedding issues

Scale problems can cause leopard geckos to lose their toes. Scales attached to the toes dry out and the skin begins to tighten and pinch the toes.

The blood supply to the toes is restricted and insufficient oxygen supply is carried to the toes by the blood. The toes then begin to deteriorate, falling off and often leading to infection.

When the skin begins to dull, the moulting process is initiated and may be aided by gently spraying the habitat and spraying the leopard gecko directly.

When hair problems occur and skin sticks to the body, professional help should be sought. An experienced veterinarian should assess the leopard gecko and determine the course of treatment.

The underlying cause and complications should be treated and the remaining skin removed.

Leopard gecko shedding problems are largely related to humidity. Low humidity occurs when the habitat is too dry and therefore old skin cannot adequately shed. Old skin will stick to the body, which is not an ideal situation for your leopard gecko.

Problems with dry skin and hair loss will bother your leopard gecko; Fog helps to avoid this situation.

3. Misting the habitat

Misting is crucial to maintaining the right environment in your leopard gecko’s habitat and meeting their daily moisture needs.

The detachment of the skin is promoted and the moisture is perfectly maintained through the misting. Your leopard gecko may also enjoy licking up drops of water to stay hydrated.

The following points are important to remember when spraying your leopard gecko’s habitat:

Mist the habitat daily, especially if there is no source of water in the habitat. Leopard geckos need water to survive and live healthy, despite hailing from an arid environment. Water and moisture are also required for skin detachment.

Proper humidity levels should be maintained when spraying your leopard gecko’s habitat. Humidity should be kept at 40% or less. High humidity, including fogging, is the result of too much fogging with poor ventilation.

Leopard geckos can have problems moulting if the humidity is kept below 20%. On the other hand, if the humidity is too high, a level above 40% increases their susceptibility to numerous infections.

The habitat should ideally be sprayed at least several times a week, and baby leopard geckos should be sprayed occasionally.

The primary purpose of misting the habitat is to maintain the humidity level of the habitat and provide your leopard gecko with the moisture it needs. Watering and spraying the habitat should not be confused.

Misting allows the substrate within the habitat to absorb the sprayed water, rarely irrigating the habitat.

fogging methods

Two methods are available to spray your habitat and leopard gecko. You can either spray manually with a spray bottle or provide an automated system within the habitat.

4. Automated fogging

The automatic spraying system offers convenience and you avoid the risk of possibly forgetting to spray.

Automatic foggers are ideal, especially if you are unable to routinely mist your leopard gecko and lion’s habitat. It also protects your leopard gecko from potential problems that can arise if you don’t do routine spraying.

If you mistakenly forget to spray your leopard gecko and its habitat and they find themselves in a situation where they need to be sprayed, your leopard gecko could have health problems.

A habitat without moisture in the air could lead to various problems for your leopard gecko, including the loss of their life.

Life can get busy with all the demands of work or school and you will likely forget to spray your leopard gecko and its habitat. Leopard geckos are also crepuscular creatures, waking up at night and this can present a potential inconvenience when a mist is required.

An automatic misting system is also ideal for controlling habitat humidity at night, when levels tend to drop.

To protect your leopard gecko from extremely dry or hot air at night and to provide it with the humidity it needs for a successful molt, it is recommended that you install an automatic fogging system.

Leopard gecko owners who cannot maintain a constant humidity level of 20% to 40% in the habitat should install an automatic misting system.

5. Manual fogging

Manually misting the habitat is easily accomplished with an inexpensive spray bottle and is recommended unless you lead a busy lifestyle with a ton of responsibilities. Humidifying the habitat and keeping your leopard gecko cool can be done effectively with a spray bottle.

6. Avoid excessive fogging

Over-misting your leopard gecko and its habitat will result in high humidity and possible breathing problems.

A leopard gecko’s ability to breathe properly is strained when it inhales very thick, hot, and humid air. It will be detrimental to their bodies as they have very small lungs. For this reason, spraying should be done once a day or as needed.

Reducing humidity levels can become a challenge, and to avoid removing items that contain moisture from the habitat, spray the habitat once a day and once at night before saying goodnight to your gecko.

Monitoring the hygrometer after the evening spray is important to ensure the humidity drops to 20% to 40% before bed. People living in extremely humid environments may have problems with humidity levels dropping.

Respiratory infections for your leopard gecko are not an ideal situation and will require special treatment and antibiotics to resolve. Therefore, it is best not to over-fog the habitat multiple times a day.

7. Misting with purified water

Contaminated water could negatively impact leopard gecko health. Using purified water for misting is critical, as some leopard geckos love to lick water droplets off the sides of the habitat or from objects placed in the habitat.

Regular tap water and bottled water contain harmful chemicals that could endanger your leopard gecko’s health. Protect your leopard gecko’s health and avoid exposing them to potentially unhealthy water by only using purified water for nebulizing.

Bottled water still contains traces of contaminants and isn’t a much better option than tap water. Purifying the water before misting or providing water to drink is vital if you want to best protect your leopard gecko.

Our leopard geckos are much more prone to problems from drinking contaminated water.

Our bodies are stronger at flushing out toxins found in water, but that doesn’t mean we should consume unpurified water. It is harmful to health and poses an even greater risk to our leopard geckos.

Purifying water before offering it to your leopard gecko is important for longevity and a healthy life. By purifying water, you can remove most, if not all, of the chemicals found in tap and bottled water.

It would be of great benefit to look for cleaning options that are available not only for yourself but for other family members including your beloved leopard gecko!

Conclusion

Leopard geckos require moderate spraying as it helps them stay cool and content. It also facilitates the molting process and helps them drink water.

An automatic misting system will help keep your leopard gecko on track, give you the comfort you need to keep him hydrated, and help with his moult.

Just remember to avoid excessive misting and only use purified water to ensure your leopard gecko lives a long and healthy life!

lighting

Although crested geckos are crepuscular/nocturnal, they benefit from some form of light during the day. According to the UV tool, crested geckos (referred to as Rhacodactylus ciliatus in the publication) should receive 14 hours of light per day in summer and 10 hours of light in winter, each for 6 months. This helps regulate their circadian rhythms and seasonal cycles, improving activity, appetite and overall health.

Don’t bother with black/blue/red bulbs for night vision or extra warmth. Crested geckos’ eyes work perfectly in the dark, and providing light at night can actually upset their circadian rhythm. Also, nighttime temperature drops are actually healthier than providing heat at night. My opinion? Save yourself a few bucks and don’t bother.

What about UVB?

Many people will tell you that captive crested geckos don’t need UVB – they get all the vitamin D3 they need from high-quality, prepared diets. While it’s true that not having access to UVB will not necessarily kill a crested gecko, there is mounting evidence that providing UVB can significantly improve the health and quality of life of reptiles previously thought not to need it improved.

In addition, UVB lamps also produce UVA light, a spectrum of light that reptiles can see but humans cannot. You see it as an extra color. Imagine if you had to live without the rainbow of colors in the visible light spectrum and only see in black and white. Wouldn’t that be boring?

For this reason, ReptiFiles recommends UVB lighting for all reptiles, including Crested Geckos. Because crowns are crepuscular and typically hide behind leaves during the day, you don’t need anything particularly strong. We recommend the following lamps and lights:

The bracket should be mounted over the net.

If you have a solar meter 6.5 (recommended), the UVI at the sun branch should be between 1.0-2.0. If you don’t have a solar meter, here is a fair basis for distancing with each lamp type:

Zoo Med T8 Reptisun 5.0 – 4-6″ / 15-20cm

Arcadia T5 SO ShadeDweller 7% – 8-10″ / 20-25cm

PRO TIP: If you’re using UVB, make sure the fixture doesn’t have a piece of glass or plastic to “shield” the bulb. Glass and plastic block UVB rays, rendering that lightbulb you just spent so much money on completely useless. Naked UVB lamps are effective UVB lamps!

temperatures

Sun Area (Top of Case) – 82-85°F (28-29°C)

(Top of case) – 82-85°F (28-29°C) Cooling Zone (Bottom of case) – 70-75°F (21-24°C)

(Bottom of case) —70-75°F (21-24°C) Nighttime — 65-72°F (18-22°C)

Note that providing this temperature range is very important! Constant temperatures above 29°C (85°F) can cause stress and heat exhaustion, and constant temperatures at or below 22°C (72°F) can cause lethargy, loss of appetite and illness.

Many people claim that it’s perfectly fine to keep a crested gecko at room temperature without a heat source, but it’s important to remember that crested geckos are cycled heat, meaning they cannot produce their own body heat and rely on natural heat sources (ie: sunlight) in their environment to help them regulate their metabolism and digest food. In my experience, the most common cause of lethargy, loss of appetite, and illness in crested geckos is lack of access to a heat source.

How to heat up your crested gecko’s enclosure

The best source of heat for a crested gecko is a heat lamp. Low wattage white or clear incandescent/halogen lamps work very well.

If you’re using a small terrarium hood like the Zoo Med Naturalistic Terrarium Hood to house your lighting, I recommend the Exo Terra Daytime Heat Lamp. The exact wattage you need will depend on case size, design, room temperature, and other factors, but start with 25W and go up or down from there as needed.

If you’re using a small 5.5″ dome lamp like Zoo Med’s for your heat lamp, I recommend starting with the 25W Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot lamp. Dome lights are also compatible with dimmers, which can be a very handy feature for controlling the sun’s temperature in your gecko’s enclosure.

Keep in mind that a basking area may not be safe in enclosures that are too small to accommodate a reasonable temperature gradient (e.g. Kritter Keepers)!

measure temperature

You can ensure you are providing a proper temperature gradient with a temperature gun like the Etekcity Lasergrip 774. This gives you instant readings of temperatures anywhere in the terrarium, which is great for peace of mind – I can’t live without mine!

Keep an eye on your Crestie’s air temperatures with a quality digital probe thermometer, such as the Zoo Med Digital Thermometer and Moisture Meter, with the temperature probe placed in the sun area. Don’t use anything cheaper, like the tape thermometers commonly found at pet stores. You’ll save a bit of money, but it won’t be accurate and you risk accidentally cooking your gecko.

Difference between Foggers and Misters

As a rule, reptiles kept in artificial environments require humidity. A moist reptile habitat is necessary not only for hydration, but also for egg incubation, laying, and other reptile behaviors.

In addition, reptiles feel safe and less stressed in a comfortable environment.

There are two ways to create a humid habitat for your pet reptile: by adding a mister or by adding an atomizer. The practical difference between the two is that the nebulizers create a rainy environment and produce small droplets while the nebulizers are used to introduce mist into the habitat.

As the name suggests, reptile bugs shoot water molecules into the air, creating an effect similar to fog. Reptile foggers do not use powerful pumps, instead they use ultrasound to vaporize the liquid water.

On the other hand, mist systems spray a very fine mist of water into the case, which swirls around and creates a cloud that eventually settles. There are usually two types of fog systems; low pressure and high pressure. High-pressure nebulizers are preferred over low-pressure nebulizer systems because of their efficiency.

Both devices are often set to be activated by a timer so that a certain level of humidity is maintained more or less constant throughout the day.

Reptile Fogger Vs Mister, which is objectively better?

mist master

Mr. professionals:

Nebulizer systems can control humidity much more precisely than nebulizers

With just one nebulizer you can spray multiple enclosures of any size and position, even in different rooms. You can have different humidity levels in different enclosures by using different numbers of nozzles, and you can target nozzles at specific areas of the habitat that require more mist, creating the gradient you need.

Nebulizers add significantly more moisture than nebulizers

An atomizer is used to water plants, while a fogger is not intended to wet plants

The texture of the moisture produced by a nebulizer is noticeably more granular than the moisture produced by a nebulizer and therefore a nebulizer system helps eliminate reptile waste by rinsing it onto the substrate where it is naturally recycled as nutrients for the plants .

Fogger professionals:

Misters create a cooler environment

In most tropical areas, humidity increases during the night; If activated at night, the smoke machine would mimic this

Misters are much quieter: Many Mister models are quite loud, they certainly make more noise than a mister.

Checklist of things besides nebulizers and nebulizers to consider when creating a humid environment for your reptile pet:

TEMPERATURE: Keep an eye on the temperature; if the bulbs are too hot for the tank, the tank can dry out too quickly, but if the temperature is too low, moisture from the soil has no chance to evaporate. You can get a thermometer and hydrometer to keep track of both humidity and temperature. Zoo Med offers a digital hygrometer that works well.

HOUSING: Glass housings help to keep the humidity in the terrarium higher. Most mesh cases offer excellent ventilation, but at the cost of lower humidity.

TANK or TERRARIUM LOCATION: Make sure your aquarium is not directly next to a window or under a heater/air conditioner vent. Due to the increased air circulation, the tank can dry out very quickly.

SOIL: Keeping deep soil in the cage (at least 3 inches) will prevent it from drying out quickly, even in a tropical environment. When choosing substrate it is important to get the right one as it makes a huge difference when it comes to keeping humidity levels higher. Avoid non-porous substrates such as sand or crushed walnuts. For example, Exo Terra Exo Terra wood bark terrarium substrate is a great option.

LIVE PLANTS: Adding live plants to your pet terrarium will help increase the natural humidity levels in the tank. Do your research to make sure you find a non-toxic plant for your pet.

WATER BOWL: If you notice your reptile’s water drying out overnight, increase the bowl size. Many reptiles and amphibians are happy about an oversized bathing area. Make sure that the animal can still get out of the bowl; Drowning is always a risk – especially with young reptiles.

Conclusion

Which one you choose depends on your specific needs and taste.

Also, how much humidity you need to add to your enclosure, according to your pet’s particular needs, and according to the natural climate you already live in (which means your humidity requirements won’t be the same if you live in Miami , than if you live in Las Vegas)

As far as ambience goes, I’d rather opt for a fogger, although the sight of fog inside the case also helps create a realistic environment that’s pleasing to look at. However, fog looks way cooler to me!

However, if you want to automate, you’d better get a fog system, since foggers usually require additional hand fogging.

Also, a misting system can control humidity much more precisely.

The convenience of choosing an atomizer or mister also depends on the number of cases you have. Some smoke machines come with two pipes and can therefore serve two enclosures at the same time.

But if you have more than two pens, an atomizer might look more practical since you can use it to visit all of your pens, even if they are in different rooms.

If you can, do both. I would use the fog system early in the morning and afternoon and the fogger at night.

You can check out our best reptile atomizer review which also has an atomizer there.

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