Hay Nets For Goats? Top 50 Best Answers

Using slow feed hay nets is one of the most effective ways to reduce hay waste. It is also associated with many benefits including improvements in the physical and mental health of horses. Mesh slow feeders are safe, durable, easy to fill and go anywhere. Round bale hay nets are particularly good for allowing natural husbandry or grazing behavior by allowing the horses to eat on top of the round bale and graze around the bottom of the round bale.

It also extends the life of your round bale and reduces your labor as you don’t have to lay out the bales as often. It ensures that your dear companions always have something to eat. Studies have shown a reduction in hay waste of up to 46%. Below is a good example of what happens without a hay net, showing the hay being spread out and eventually used as a toilet and bed.

If you have never tried using round bale hay nets, you may be wondering what happens to the excess net when the horses eat the round bale. This is one of the most frequently asked questions we receive from our customers. And the answer to that is pretty simple…nothing!

The excess mesh does not cause any problems for the horses or livestock using it. There is no problem with excess netting as the hay spreads down within the confines of the netting. The net is still tight until there is hardly any hay left in it.

Check out the photos below to see what happens during start up, mid use and towards the end of round baling.

This photo above shows how little hay can be wasted when using a GutzBusta® hay net.

The hay can only spread as far as the net allows. To contain the hay net even more you can add a hay ring or other boundary/physical barrier to enclose both your round bale and the slow feed net around it. These 2 things working together are even more effective at saving on hay waste, contain the hay and are a fantastic idea for shod horses. Below are 4 ways to keep your round bale netting in a physical barrier that will increase the effectiveness of the hay netting and safety wise is a must for shod horses.

Feeding your goats can be confusing! How Much Hay Should You Feed Your Goats?

Can they eat whatever they want, or is there a healthy limit? The answers depend on your goat!

A goat cannot eat too much hay. Given a choice, a goat will eat what it needs.

As a goat novice, you will no doubt come across tons of information about feeding goats, but what is the right way for your goats?

Don’t have any goats yet? Read my article Buying your first goats.

Let me get one thing straight: good quality hay or pasture depending on the time of year is the foundation of your goat’s diet!

All goats should include hay or other feed in their daily ration. How much hay they should eat depends on the goat and the type of hay.

Before we get too far into that, there are a few things that can trip you up if your goats are eating too much hay: 1. Show goats and 2. Nutritional value of your goat ration (any forage she eats).

For show goats: In this article I am talking about commercial goats, not show goats. For a show goat, a big hay belly doesn’t get you a top ranking! So if you’re interested in showing goats, you’ll need to look elsewhere for your information! If she eats all her hay, that doesn’t mean your goat is getting the nutrition she needs! Being full and being fully nourished are two different things! Make sure you give your goats good quality hay, not just hay! Quality matters!

So, with the exception of show goats, your goat can have as much good quality hay or graze as it wants. How much she needs and if she can only eat hay will be covered next.

Do you want a feed budget for your goats? Read my article Goat Keeping and Raising Costs.

Two of our goats, a mother and daughter couple, are relaxing in the sun. These are Boer-type goats and need more than just hay to grow well, although this time the deer only raised one young.

Your goat eats 3.5% of its weight in hay every day

You should let your goat eat as much hay as she wants to eat, she knows the right amount. If you’re a numbers person, go with 3.5% of your body weight as a starting point and adjust from there based on observations.

What’s the deal with hay and goats? Hay has the long fibers that are critical to their digestion.

Goats are ruminants, like sheep and cattle, so they need longer fibers for their digestive system to function properly.

The need for hay is particularly critical if your goats are fed concentrates, grain or pellets.

The hay balances out the higher energy intakes so that your intestines can function optimally. Your goat will meet her own hay needs if you let her by giving her hay of free choice!

Raising Goats: Herd care will give you an idea of ​​your basic management required for your new herd.

Your goat can live on good hay

Technically yes. In reality, this is a simplified answer since you have to consider the quality of the hay.

Can your goat live on only good quality hay (no grain)? Maybe.

Yes, if the hay is of high quality and more than meets your daily calorie needs, that means it depends on the goats you have.

If the hay is of poor quality, no, it is not suitable for your goats (whatever kind of goats you have)!

The lighter framed goats and the slower growing goats are more capable of just eating hay and do well, think Kiki or Spanish goats.

Larger bodied goats like Boers and fast growing goats like Young Goats need more than hay to grow well.

This is how you can tell if your goat needs better hay

How can you tell if your goat needs more than just hay? Look at the goat! Is the goat spunky, tail high and curious with a nice sleek coat of hair? If so, she’s fine!

If her hair is rough and she doesn’t have a lot of zip, you’ll need to adjust her ration. Get her other hay or consider giving her some concentrates.

Some goats need more than hay

Any goat with high energy demands, such as Goats that are lactating, growing kids, and heavier-built “meat-type” goats will need to eat more than just hay.

These goats will require additional energy, likely in the form of grain, to grow or produce optimally.

Without grain, these goats won’t be able to get the daily calories they need to be healthy.

If you don’t want to supplement the hay with grain, get a lighter-built goat that doesn’t need the extra calories, like Kiko or Spanish.

This species of goat can feed itself without the extra calories that other breeds of goats require.

They still need a high-quality diet of hay or grass, but typically don’t need a grain supplement.

The main point here is to provide hay (and possibly grain) to optimally care for the individual goats you have.

Not what your neighbors have or the guy in an article you read, your goats.

Goat breeds are very different, so it is only logical that the needs and appropriate feeding regimen of these goats are also very different.

Don’t worry, with a little observation you will soon be able to see if your current hay is working for your goats or if you need to change it.

Here’s a great chart explaining the different dietary needs of goats. Keep in mind that the company that made the chart sells feed (so they figure all goats must get some of the feed they make!), but it’s a useful chart nonetheless.

These two smaller breed goats are pets. They are fully grown and eating a maintenance diet. While they have plenty of pasture to roam, they still have access to free choice of hay. Not all goats in this herd are small, it’s a mix of goat sizes with a few donkeys in there. The hay is always available, so all the goats and their donkey buddies get plenty to eat.

2nd or 3rd cut of hay is best for goats

Second or third cut hay is generally of higher quality than first cut hay. This relies on high-quality, promptly produced hay harvest.

Every cut made well is better than a bad cut later. For example, a good first cutting is of higher quality than a second cutting that has been rained on several times before it could be pressed.

Well made hay for the first cut can be great for your goats! Or it can be done late, raining on trash that’s really only good for mulch or bedding!

Don’t get bogged down in the cutting, it’s the quality that counts!

1st or 2nd cut hay? shows you the specific differences so you can judge the cut of the hay you buy for yourself.

This is how you can tell if your goats like the new hay

If you’re not sure how your goats will like a new hay, try getting a few bales first. Do they eat the new hay willingly? How much waste, like stalks, is left in the feeder?

If the new hay works well for you, then get more! We are always very frustrated when we buy a load of hay that is not what the seller promised or my animals just don’t like it!

Start with a few pads and increase in size once you see whether your goats like it or not.

Start with a nice second cut grass hay

A safe place to start would be a nice second cut grass hay or a mixed alfalfa and grass hay. Nothing stalked or with mature seed heads on it.

Plants should barely start flowering to be top nutrition. If you see mature seeds, it was made late and has a lower forage value than hay made at peak nutrition.

Still not sure which hay to buy for your goats? asking around

Ask folks at the local farm store or join an online group and ask other goat farmers or other ranchers in your area for advice. You will know the bang.

Don’t forget to check online ads too!

A word to the wise: Whenever possible, buy hay from people who raise livestock. They will have made the best possible hay for their own animals and will sell the extra.

In our experience, people who only grow hay for sale but do not feed produce poorer hay than someone who keeps livestock.

One bale of hay feeds one goat for 10 days

The quick reply is about 10 days. The specific answer involves a bit of math.

This depends on how much your goat weighs and how much the bale weighs. In general, your goat should be getting 3-4% of its body weight in hay per day, let’s say 3.5%.

We say the goat in question weighs 130 pounds just to give an example of how to calculate the amount of hay per goat per day.

130 pounds x 0.035 = 4.55 pounds of hay per day

For a simple calculation, if you have a 45 pound bale, you have enough hay for your goat for about 10 days per bale.

Most small square bales weigh between 40 and 50 pounds each. You’ll need to weigh at least one of them individually to get a more accurate weight when you need it.

Another option is to take a flake of hay, the sections of hay that the bale easily breaks into when you cut the string, and weigh some of them.

Don’t dwell on it too much, after a few weeks you will develop an eye for how much hay your goat needs and be able to guess just by looking.

Feed alfalfa to goats with high energy needs

If your goat has very high energy needs, feed them alfalfa! Goats I think of are milking and growing children.

Non-growing goats fed a maintenance ration do not require such high-energy feed. I’m sure they would love to have some, but they don’t need them!

Maintenance goats, like pet or early-bearing goats, do not require as much energy as lactating or fast-growing market kids.

Since a higher energy hay like alfalfa is generally more expensive than a lower energy hay, giving the alfalfa to the goats that need it will save you money.

Is timothy or alfalfa hay best?

Feeding timothy or alfalfa depends on what you are feeding for: growth, milk or husbandry?

A maintenance goat will do well on timothy and it will be a great long fiber for a higher maintenance goat that also gets some concentrates.

Alfalfa is perfect for growing children and nursing females as it is so high quality and tasty.

Provision of more than one type of hay

Another thing to consider is giving your goats some of each type of hay.

For example: Give a pet goat mostly grass hay, like timothy grass, and supplement with alfalfa as more of a snack.

They could give the main feed of timothy in the morning and give the bonus dessert flakes of alfalfa in the evening once they’ve spent the day eating timothy hay.

If you give the alfalfa first, they ignore the timothy or pull it out of the feeder to look for the last bits of alfalfa!

Tips for Choosing Quality Hay is an article I wrote to give you details on what to check to see if you’re getting your money’s worth!

What is the best hay trough for horses? It’s an important and popular question… and one that sparks endless debates, both in horse stables around the world and on horse forums around the internet. This article is our mustard on the subject.

It is important to note that this is by no means a complete list of horse foods. There are far too many feeders on the market for one article to compare them all. (One popular e-commerce site alone lists almost 500 results for the search “horse hay feeders.”)

We’ve tried to compile a list of horse hay feeders that spans a number of dimensions: price, bale type, materials, feeding location, and more. To compile our list of the “best” horse hay feeders, we took into account user reviews, product innovation and our own professional opinion. We hope it provides you with a helpful starting point as you search for the best hay feeder for your horses!

Farmco HF608SF

Link: https://www.farmco.ag/horse-feeders/slow-hay-feeder/

Type: Covered Steel Indent

Bale Size: Large Round

Feeding Place: Outdoor

Material(s): Painted steel, woven polyester

Pros: Slow feed function, easy to use, keeps hay off the ground, keeps hay covered, trough catches waste, durable steel construction

Cons: Expensive, requires a pickup or loader to place bales

It goes without saying that we are biased towards our own products! We have worked hard to develop a range of horse feeders based on years of customer feedback and trial/error. We are pretty happy with the results and would be lying if we said we don’t think our feeders are among the best out there. 🙂

The HF608SF is one of our most popular models. It is constructed with a heavy-duty steel frame, a trough for bale retention and waste collection, and a 29-gauge steel roof to keep hay dry during consumption. Woven polyester slow-feed panels with 2.5″ holes prevent horses from wasting hay; The plates are placed on the sides of the bale and move with the bale as it is eaten.

While the height of the trough protects the bales from soil moisture, it means adding hay requires a loader or pickup truck bed to roll the bales off.

The most common complaint about this horse feeder relates to its price. The all-steel construction means the cost of the HF608SF is well above the cost of simpler feeders such as B. Hay nets. But even at this price point, users often find that the hay savings on the feeder pay for itself within several years and the feeder itself is built to last for decades. The HF608SF is available direct from Farmco or through our dealer network. Due to the size/weight of this feeder, we recommend requesting a quote for accurate pricing that includes current freight charges.

Heavy gauge round bale hay net by Texas Haynet

Link: https://texashaynet.com/products/heavy-gauge-round-bale-net

Type: hay net

Bale Size: Large round or large square bales

Feeding Place: Outdoor

Material(s): Knotted nylon webbing

Pros: slow feed functionality, easy to use, affordable

Cons: Hay is on the ground, an entanglement hazard for shod horses, needs repairing if holes appear

Photo: Texas Haynet

The beauty of the Texas Haynet is its simplicity. Made from knotted nylon mesh, this horse hay feeder is simply a mesh bag with a drawstring tie at one end. This allows the hay net to be used as a standalone feeder or to modify other feeders such as bale rings or haystack feeders.

Texas Haynets come in a variety of sizes, but their most popular horse hay feeders are their large bale nets, which can accommodate round bales up to 6’x6′ and square bales up to 3’x4’x8′. Texas Haynets are available in standard and heavy gauge configurations. Mesh hole sizes can also be selected, with 1.75″, 2.5″ and 3″ options to choose from.

On the other hand, hay nets still expose the forage to rain and soil moisture, which could be a problem in wetter locations. Although reviews are generally positive, some users complain that the Texas Haynets develop holes after several days or weeks of use. However, the company includes repair string with every hay net it sells. Texas Haynets are available in retail stores across the United States, major online e-commerce sites, and their own website.

Big bale buddy

Link: https://www.bigbalebuddy.com/big-bale-buddy.html

Type: Haysack/Haywrap

Bale Size: Large Round

Feeding Place: Outdoor

Material(s): Woven Polypropylene

Pros: Affordable, retains leftovers

Disadvantages: Hay lies on the ground, very specific to the bale size, does not always stay in place when the bale is eaten up

Photo: Big Bale Buddy

The Big Bale Buddy is perhaps the best horse hay feeder from Canada. Designed for simplicity and made from bright green woven polypropylene, this feeder is essentially a large pouch that is placed around the bale. Horses eat hay through the opening at the top of the manger. The pouch is designed to move down when the pad is eaten, catching waste and retaining it to avoid excess waste.

The Big Bale Buddy is available in multiple sizes: small (bales up to 4ft 4″ in diameter), large (bales up to 5ft 2″ in diameter) and extra large (bales up to 6ft in diameter).

There have been some complaints from reviewers about the Big Bale Buddy’s sizing. A number of users found the feeder difficult to place on their bale while others found it was not tight enough and allowed hay to squirt out while the bale was being eaten. However, the majority of the feedback seems to be positive. Through multiple distribution partnerships, the Big Bale Buddy is available in retail stores around the world, on major online e-commerce sites, and on its own website. The company has also released a line of hay net feeders.

High quality slow feeder hay bag for horses from Derby Originals

Link: https://www.derbyoriginals.com/collections/hay-bags/products/71-7125

Type: hay net bag (individual)

Bale size: flakes

Feeding place: indoor/outdoor

Material(s): Reinforced nylon webbing

Pros: slow feed functionality, affordable, can be placed in individual boxes

Cons: Requires frequent refills, difficult to close

Photo: Derby Originals

The Derby Originals brand claims to be the originator of the 4-sided hay sack concept… and they have a patent (#D742078) to back it up! This product, which is considered one of the best slow feeding hay sacks for horses, is made of reinforced nylon fabric and has 1.75 inch square holes. The feeder is available in six colors: Black, Hunter Green, Petroleum Blue, Royal Blue, Purple and Red.

Due to its size (22 x 25 x 8 inches), this horse hay feeder is best suited for 1 or 2 horses at a time. It can be hung in a paddock area or in individual boxes. Depending on the size of the hay bales to be fed, the automatic feeder has a capacity of 2-3 hay flakes at a time.

Some users have expressed frustration with the fasteners on the feeder, noting that they can be difficult and time consuming to close. Others have mentioned their horses outsmarting the Velcro and gaining direct access to the hay. Overall, however, the generally positive reviews make this one of the best slow feed hay bags for horses.

Derby Originals products are available in retail stores across the United States, major online e-commerce sites, and on their own website. The Superior Slow Feeder Horse Hay Bag is one of several Slow Feed hay bag designs available from the company.

36 inch slow feed hay net from Weaver Leather

Link: https://www.ridethebrand.com/catalog/item-detail/35-4043/

Type: hay net bag (individual)

Bale size: flakes

Feeding Place: Indoor

Materials: poly rope

Pros: Low price, simple design, easy to carry

Cons: Requires frequent refills, limited shelf life

Photo: Saddlery Bahr

Weaver Leather is best known for their leather harness and riding gear, but they also have a wide range of horse accessories including this popular hay net feeder. If you’re looking for simplicity, it’s hard to find a better slow feed horse hay net. The minimalist design of this hay sack features a poly rope mesh with holes approximately 2 inches in size and an easy drawstring closure at the top.

This hay sack feeder for horses has a capacity of around 1-2 flakes of hay depending on the size of the bale. Once filled, the bag is simply hung up or fixed with the drawstrings. The feeder is available in 6 colors: black, blue, lime green, pink, purple and red.

Many users mention portability as a big plus for this feeder. It can easily be taken to the street for shows and easily moved between trailer and stand.

At the time of writing, the different colors of this product had received over 1500 combined reviews on a popular e-commerce site, with an average rating of over 4.5 stars. Some users complained about the product’s durability, but the vast majority found it to be good value for money. Weaver Leather’s Slow Feed Hay Nets are available in retail stores across the United States, major online e-commerce sites and on their equestrian-focused website under the Ride the Brand® brand.

6-Flake Extended Day/2-String Bale Net by Freedom Feeder

Link: https://freedomfeeder.com/products/extended-day-net

Type: Hay Net Bag

Bale Size: Flakes/Small Square

Feeding place: indoor/outdoor

Material(s): nylon mesh

Pros: Simple design, fits the entire small bale

Cons: Durability, hanging system requires two attachment points

Photo: Kensington Products

Freedom Feeder® is a hay net feeder made from premium DuPont™ nylon mesh. Net hole sizes of 1″, 1.5″ and 2″ are available. The company recommends larger hole sizes for aggressive feeders and smaller sizes for the slowest feeding action.

The Freedom Feeder® is one of the best medium sized slow feed hay bags for horses. It marks a middle ground between large bale hay nets and small individual hay bags. This particular feeder has a capacity for 6-8 hay flakes or a medium sized small square (2 row) hay bale; Weight-wise, the capacity is around 50 pounds.

Some users have complained about cracks in the mesh that needed to be repaired in order to continue using it. According to the company, horses who are just learning to eat from a hay net or slow feeder are most likely to snap. The feeder also requires two contact points for proper assembly, which can be a challenge with some fence or coop designs. However, the majority of reviewers found this to be one of the best slow feed horse hay nets they have used. The 6-Flake Extended Day/2-String Bale Net is available on major online e-commerce sites and on the Freedom Feeder® website.

Slow Feed Hay Ball Feeder Toy by Equi-Essentials

Link: https://www.ridingwarehouse.com/Equi-Essential_Slow_Feed_Hay_Ball_Feeder_Toy-Large/descpage-ESFH.html

Type: Hay Feeder Toy

Bale size: flakes

Feeding place: indoor/outdoor

Material(s): plastic

Pros: Durable, combines feeding and entertainment

Cons: Limited capacity, time-consuming filling

Photo: riding camp

In addition to feeding horses, many owners also have to think about entertaining them. This slow feeder toy serves both purposes, providing horses with a source of food and keeping them busy for several hours at a time. Available in 4 colors (Blue, Red, Green and Purple), the Equi-Essentials Slow Feed Hay Ball Feeder Toy is one of the best horse hay slow feeder toys on the market.

The design of this feeder toy is a roughly spherical plastic sphere measuring 16 inches in diameter. Hay is loaded into the feeder through a single 4-¾ ​​inch diameter hole which is capped after filling. Horses access the hay through 12 holes that are 2-¾ inch in diameter.

The company claims the feeder holds up to 7 pounds of hay, although various reviewers have found the real world capacity closer to 2-3 pounds. However, this product is not designed to be used as a primary source of feed, but rather to relieve boredom in horses.

The Slow Feed Hay Ball Feeder Toy is available through several horse specific online retailers as well as major e-commerce websites.

HelixFeeder by KiwiFeeder

Link: https://kiwifeeder.com/products/collapsible-slow-feeder-for-horses

Type: Collapsible

Bale size: flakes

Feeding place: indoor/outdoor

Material(s): plastic/synthetic fabrics

Pros: Collapsible, adjustable hole size, portable, slow feed functionality

Cons: Durability, relatively new product with limited field feedback

Photo: Kiwi Feeder

The HelixFeeder might be the newest design on this list. Developed in Canada in the mid-2010s, this is one of the most innovative small horse feeders in recent memory.

A collapsible body and adjustable feeding holes are two outstanding design features of the HelixFeeder.

The body of the feeder is made of corrosion-resistant, UV-resistant plastic. It is designed to collapse as the hay is eaten, meaning the feeder is always roughly the same size as the amount of feed left. According to the manufacturer, the feeder can hold up to 50 pounds of hay. However, the collapsible design means it works just as well with just 10 pounds of hay.

Horses eat hay from the HelixFeeder through a plastic slow feeder plate on top. This slow feed panel can be adjusted to find the optimal feed rate for each individual horse. If an animal eats too quickly, the holes can be made smaller; If it is too difficult for the horse to get the hay out, the holes can be made larger.

Because the HelixFeeder is a relatively new product, it has less real world feedback than some other feeder options. Some users have complained of durability issues, although the majority of reviewers seemed quite happy with the feeder’s performance. Assuming it can withstand normal wear and tear, this could be one of the best slow speed hay feeders for small bales! The HelixFeeder is available from several horse-specific online retailers, as well as from the KiwiFeeder website.

Hay Hoops Collapsible Wall Mounted Feeder by Tough-1

Link: https://www.statelinetack.com/item/hay-hoops-ii-collapsible-wall-feeder-with-net/E015992/

Type: Hay Net Bag (Wall Mounted)

Bale size: flakes

Feeding Place: Indoor

Material(s): metal

Pros: Easy to load, compact design

Cons: Difficult to assemble frame, difficult to install mesh

Photo: Schneiders

Tough-1’s Hay Hoops series seeks to solve one of the few remaining pain points of slow-feed haynets: their difficulty in loading them. Although there are several variations of the hay hoop, they all work on the same basic principle. A metal frame is attached to the wall of the horse box, around which the muzzle of the hay net is stretched. The Hay Hoop unfolds when loading and latches flat against the wall when feeding.

There are several variations of the Hay Hoop, including a Hay Hoop II. While product variations are somewhat unclear in many online listings, one of the most important variations seems to be how the net attaches to the frame. A version of the Hay Hoop has a frame where the net is routed directly onto the frame. Some reviewers claimed the frame had to be disassembled to replace the mesh on this model. Another version includes loops (similar to those on a basketball hoop) for quick attachment/detachment of the net. Some reviewers claimed that the mesh could come loose too easily with this design.

Hay tires are most commonly sold without a mesh, allowing you to choose the ideal mesh size and material for your use. It is important to mount the frame high enough and to choose a net small enough not to pose an entanglement hazard for scratching horses.

Some Hay Hoops users have complained that initial installation is quite difficult, with one reviewer writing that it took three hours to install four of the feeders. However, other users have found them to be a huge time saver. We’ve included them in this list thanks to their ingenious design, which has a patent pending at the time of writing.

The different models of Tough-1 Hay Hoops are available through several horse specific online retailers as well as major e-commerce websites.

Farmco HF45H

Link: https://www.farmco.ag/horse-feeders/outdoor-horse-hay-feeder/

Type: Covered Steel Indent

Bale Size: Small Square

Feeding Place: Outdoor

Material(s): Painted steel, Plastic (roof)

Pros: Easy to use, keeps hay off the ground, keeps hay covered, trough catches debris, durable steel construction

Cons: Expensive

We couldn’t help but add another of our own designs as we think it’s one of the best covered horse hay feeders for small bales. The HF45H is one of our newer models, specifically designed for horse farms using small square bales.

With the HF45H we tried to build an automatic feeder that would drastically reduce waste when supplementing horses in the field. The design aims to achieve several things: keeping bales off the ground, keeping hay dry during rainfall, and catching debris that falls during feeding so it can be eaten later.

The HF45H has a steel basket that can hold up to 4 small square hay bales at a time. The basket is covered with a durable plastic roof (optional) with rounded corners to prevent horse injuries. A steel trough under the basket helps catch bits of food that fall out of the basket during feeding, giving them a second chance to be eaten.

As with the HF608SF, the main complaint we hear about the HF45H is the price. With its all-steel construction, it is not a budget feeder for horses. Still, the HF45H is one of our best selling models, indicating that grazing horse farms consider it one of the best hay feeders for their needs.

The HF45H is available direct from Farmco or through our distribution network. We recommend requesting a quote for accurate freight prices. We may also be able to direct you to a stock unit at a farm equipment supplier near you.

We hope this list has been a helpful resource! For more information, we have compiled another list of the 10 best slow feeders for horses, excluding hay net options. Best regards in finding the best horse hay feeder for your farm! Speaking of feeding horses hay, do you think it can cause overeating in horses? We’ve talked a lot about hay feeders in this article; So if you want to learn more about hay, feel free to read our article on square hay bales. If you want to learn more about the best hay feeders for cattle, our Best Hay Feeders for Cattle: 2022 Guide is a helpful resource. If you would like to better understand why a horse feeder is helpful, here is another article that may be of help. You can also read a helpful guide to metal hay fodders.

Whether you’re switching to slow feeding or want to waste hay, a hay net can be a great solution. Slow feed hay nets are lightweight, portable and easy to use, but choosing a hole size can be overwhelming. To make this decision a little easier for you, we’ve created a quick hole selection guide with answers to some of the most common questions we get.

Small Holes 1-1.75″

To slow consumption and avoid as much waste as possible, stick with a hole that’s 2 inches or less.

Ideally, you want to ensure a continuous supply of hay 24/7. By holding the food in front of your horse longer, you can help prevent or alleviate many digestive, metabolic, and behavioral problems. To help prevent colic and ulcers, we recommend hay nets with 1.75″ holes when feeding round bales and 1-1.5″ holes when feeding flakes or small squares.

For minis, we recommend a 1″ hole. Known for getting overweight, most minis require a smaller hole and smaller portions.

90% of horses have no problem with 1.75″ holes. If your horse has a relaxed/easygoing personality, then we recommend starting where a larger hole and thicker material comes into play.

Medium/large holes 2+”

Larger holes (2+”) are ideal for horses that have struggled with small holes in the past. If your horse has destroyed a hay net with 1.5″ holes then you can be fairly certain that it will do the same with a net will make with 1.75″. In this case, we recommend increasing the hole size by at least 1/2″, if not more, and consider using a thicker mesh.

Horses that tend to be destructive in the pasture or stable also tend to be harsh with nets because they tend to get frustrated with small holes. In this case, in addition to a larger hole, we also recommend using a thicker mesh such as our Heavy Gauge Net. Larger/heavier breeds such as those from the Draft or Warmblood families tend to do better with larger holes and thicker netting.

Horses with special needs, such as the blind or seniors with dental problems, are good candidates for big holes. A larger hole will make feeding time much easier for them and ensure they can get enough. Most horses in this category do well with a 3 inch hole.

Horses exposed to harsh winter conditions can also benefit from larger holes. Because extreme temperatures increase calorie needs, you want to make access as easy as possible. Smaller holes can cause additional stress by creating frustration.

Cattle generally do better with 3-inch holes. Retrieving hay through smaller holes can be challenging as they have no upper teeth and rely on their tongues to grab forage. In addition, cattle are ruminants. Their digestive system is completely different from that of horses. They’re not as prone to colic and ulcers, so slow feeding through small holes isn’t as important.

Another factor to consider is the type of feed you are using. Large holes are the best choice for hay that is long, coarse, or thick like alfalfa or straw. Thick stemmed feed can be difficult and sometimes impossible to pull through hay nets with small holes.

Be prepared

Finding the right hay net can take some trial and error. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different hole sizes. There is no one size fits all and no net is indestructible.

Horses are very similar to humans. They have different personalities, different levels of patience, and different learning speeds. Plan some time in the beginning to help your horse understand the new feeding concept.

Holes can occur. Although most horses adapt easily to slow feeding, some will become frustrated and destroy anything in their way at mealtime. Typically, this behavior wears off after the first 30 days. However, this is when you are most likely to encounter holes in your web. Luckily, hay nets are easy to repair and the hay savings and health benefits far outweigh the occasional hole.

Find out what fits your nutritional program. Check out our full range of nets, feeder kits and hole sizes. If you need help choosing, give us a call. We’re happy to help.

Technical storage or access is for statistical purposes only.

Technical storage or access is for anonymous statistical purposes only. Information stored or retrieved solely for this purpose cannot usually be used to identify you without a subpoena, voluntary consent from your ISP, or additional recording by a third party.

Get the help you need to plan for a productive year on the homestead! Get your FREE Homestead Project Planner HERE. Thanks for the visit!

Although I’ve only been raising goats for 10 years, I believe I’ve tried just about every goat hay feeder on the market. I have my favorites and my less favorites. And just like any other goat farmer, what works for me may not be the best option for you.

To help you decide on the best hay feeding option for your herd of goats, I have created this post on various goat hay feeders available. From DIY to best buy and why. These are all options I’ve tried on our own farm, so you know they’ve been tested by a homesteader and a herd of wild goats.

I hope this will make it easier for you so you don’t have to do the legwork.

Goat hay feeders are an important part of goat rearing. Not all goat farmers feed their animals grain, it all depends on the situation and the nutritional needs of the individual animal.

However, all goats must have access to good quality hay. Whether it’s all the time or just a few times a day. Goats love hay and eat quite a bit of it every day.

Contrary to what people believe, goats are quite picky eaters and will chew the hay they like while dropping the hay they don’t like from their mouths like in a practiced dance. Because of this, you may only find heaps of wasted hay scattered around your barn.

Since hay doesn’t come cheap, it’s important to find a hay feeder that reduces this waste. Wasted hay is wasted money on the farm and our aim is to waste as little money and hay as possible.

There are many options for goat hay feeders that you can make yourself to expensive units that you can buy in stores or online. I’ve tried a handful of feeders and had my flops and my favourites.

While there are many other options, this is my list of feeds that I have used and tried over the past 10 years of raising goats.

Goat Hay Feeders – My best hay feeder options for goats

Hanging Metal Goat Hay Feeder

I bought this metal hay feeder to use in our bucks’ summer pens. This is by far the best option I’ve found for my rowdy bunch of bucks. It’s tough enough to withstand their strength and stays in place through rough use.

This feeder will also work with more than one animal in a pen, but 2 goats per feeder would be the limit in my opinion. I bought these feeders almost three years ago and they look just as good as day one.

Younger goats can squeeze in and you don’t have to worry about them getting stuck.

They allow some waste, but surprisingly not too much. I bought mine at our local feed store and found most locals wear them. Unfortunately I haven’t found any online of comparable quality to the ones I own until now.

You can find these metal feeders HERE.

If your goats have horns, this hay eater is a great option. The narrow slats allow easy access to the hay without the goats feeling the need to stick their whole head in.

Bottom line, this is a good, sturdy goat hay feeder that will hold up well to my larger bucks or goats with intact horns. Even with the weather, he is doing very well.

Hanging canvas feed bag

I just love this bag!

It is very strong and durable and perfect for the milking parlor and in our goat pen.

It doesn’t take up much space and also holds a good amount of hay. This goat hay feed bag is made from heavy duty canvas so the durability is excellent which I found quite surprising. Keep this in mind though you get what you pay for. Look at the reviews and only buy quality bags.

This particular goat hay feeding is for one animal and will not work with multiple. Because of this, it works well in a milking parlour, sick bay or birthing stall.

There is some litter, but not much if your animal is a quiet eater.

I have a hind that pulls out large amounts of hay and drops half of it as she eats. The rest of my animals eat with their heads completely in the bag, eliminating most of the waste.

I bought mine on Hoeggerfarmyard.com but the shipping hasn’t been great lately. I found this one on Amazon and it looks very similar to the one I bought from Hoegger. Like I said above, be sure to read the reviews so you’re buying a bag that’s durable to withstand a rough goat.

Bottom Line: If you have a small area, this is the perfect goat hay feeder for you. Very durable and takes up little space.

DIY pig feeder

Please Note: If your goats have horns, DO NOT use this method. Goats with horns can easily get caught in the fence and cause injury. Please refer to options 1 and 2 if you have goats with horns.

This is a do-it-yourself option that’s quick to make, easy to install, and easy to move. I use this in the corners of my main junior pen to provide multiple hay feeding areas. This is good for medium-sized groups and prevents bullying.

Simply cut a piece of pork slab and secure with fencing tacks. I lined up the panels with the small openings at the bottom and the larger openings at the top. Since most of the waste falls to the bottom of the feeder, the goats will eat from the top down, so you should have the larger opening at the top.

SLCG PRO TIP: Use the hay waste at the bottom of these feeders as bedding in your goat pens or chicken nest boxes. The small pieces of hay are ideal as bedding!

Using fence panels is a really good and sturdy option and is my go-to choice for most of my multi-pen. I will also use this in my small pens if needed, but they take up some space so be aware. Hog Panel Feeders can be cut to specific sizes with a fence cutting tool depending on space requirements.

Bottom Line: A great and inexpensive way to feed multiple goats at once. Easy to install and move with fencing nails and a hammer. Fence nails can also be used over and over again, so costs are minimal.

DIY Hog Panel Standalone Goat Hay Feeder

I LOVE this feeder!

Hubby came up with this option and it’s by far the best way to feed large numbers of goats with little to no waste. It’s easy to make and easy to move.

NOTE: This is not a good option for goats with intact horns. Please refer to one of the other options if any of your goats have horns.

Any hay that the goats throw away stays inside the feeder and falls to the ground. When I notice a buildup of discarded hay, I take out the clean hay and use it in my nest boxes in our chicken coop. No more wasted hay.

I have 6 goats in my large pen and they all eat comfortably off this goat hay feeder without incident.

Take a platter of pork and lay it flat on the floor. Stand on the panel and lift the end, creating the bend in the fence. You must be careful not to let the panel spring back, two people are best when bending the panel.

Continue working with the panel until you have created a rectangle the size you need for your flock. Attach the end with several heavy duty zip ties to secure. Place it in your pen with the small openings facing down.

SLCG PRO TIP: If you have a particularly wild bunch, you might want to secure your goat hay feeder with a few garden stakes.

Conclusion: This is a great goat hay feeder for a large herd of animals and can be used indoors or outdoors. The cost is the price of a panel and a couple of zippers. Very durable and robust. Works best in larger areas as it takes up some space.

DIY hanging goat hay feeder

This was one of my first attempts at a hanging feeder.

I used a wire basket from a chest freezer I found at a garage sale for $2.00. It was very cheap and worked a bit. Unfortunately the material wasn’t durable and it didn’t last nearly as long as I would have liked.

I think it would be more successful with smaller goats but my big girls are a bit rough and this feeder just wasn’t up to them. There is some waste with this feeder too. Use fencing nails to hang this feeder at a height suitable for your goats.

Conclusion: A great automatic feeder for smaller goat breeds. Inexpensive and easy to install. Works well in small areas as it takes up little space.

Using buckets and bins for hay

I am currently using a couple of buckets to feed hay to my goats that are in the outdoor pen over the summer. This gives me several inexpensive options for the goats and keeps fighting to a minimum during breeding.

This is an option to use in a pinch and not one I routinely recommend. Why? Because hay can get wet which can turn into moldy hay which can cause disease in goats. If the hay is too low this way, goats can also unintentionally poop in the bin, turning good hay into dirty hay and in turn risking your goats getting sick.

If you decide to go this route, beware of holes (and lots of them) in the ground. This allows rainwater to flow through and not settle and risk rotting the hay. Remember, goats hate wet, especially wet hay.

Bottom line: store hay under shelter if possible when the weather threatens rain, and remember to always make sure your goat’s hay is clean and dry at all times.

Over time I like to experiment with different feeders to see what works and what doesn’t. This is the current list of hay feeding options for my goats that have worked best for us. I hope you are inspired to make your own DIY goat hay feeders as it is always the best way to save money on a homestead. However, if you do decide to buy your feeders, I know that one of the options above will work great for you.

If you’ve tried a few goat hay feeders or made your own, please share them below. I’d love to see what you’ve tried and learn what worked and what didn’t.

For more great dairy goat posts, check out my Goat Breeding 101 page.

Frequently asked Questions :

1.) Why should I use Hay Chix nets? What are the advantages?

Heu-Chix nets are proven to save time, money and hay!

Reduce cleaning time in paddocks and pastures! By minimizing wasted hay on the ground, there is a lot less cleaning to do. Look at your manure pile, what does it say about your waste management?

The Hay Chix Net (formerly known as the “Cinch Net”) has been shown to reduce waste in round bales by 57%, slowing consumption to a more natural level. Want to see the University of Minnesota studies? Click here

Respiratory Health: The mesh acts as a barrier to keep your horse from burying his head in the pad!

Overall: Horses are healthier when they have the opportunity to graze 24/7 as God intended. Should your horse be limited to how much it can eat? We have developed many options to suit your needs.

2.) Why is our network the best on the market?

We have put in a lot of research (real world and university studies) to guarantee that Hay Chix nets are the best on the market.

Hay Chix nets are made from the highest quality materials and are hand sewn in the USA (Texas to be precise).

If you have any questions, our NETsperts (who have horses and use Hay Chix nets) are here to answer them!

Our nets are SECURE! The knots in our nets are fixed to prevent the holes from getting bigger.

The hoggle clasp is probably the easiest way to open and close it.

NEW! We’re always developing the next best thing to make your life easier.

3.) What is the guarantee?

Risk-free 30-day money-back guarantee

Less shipping costs from the date of purchase. If you are unsatisfied for any reason, we will return or exchange your product for the first 30 days.*

90 Day Satisfaction Guarantee

We will supply you with any repair cord or patch you need for 90 days.

For more details: click here

4.) How do I return or exchange a product?

It’s very easy! Click here

5.) I don’t have a receipt, can I get my money back?

We will accept returns without receipt if placed online or over the phone within the 30 day guarantee period, provided we have a record of the order being placed.

6.) Why do you offer so many sizes?

Every horse/animal is different! Depending on how your horse/animal in the pasture, in the stable, in the small enclosure, in the herd etc.

Every horse/animal owner is different! How often would you like to do household chores and how much would you like to be able to feed at any one time?

We have developed a range of simple feeding solutions to meet everyone’s needs.

7.) What does O, SF and SFX mean?

O stands for Original and is a 1 3/4″ small mesh hay net. This was the first size we launched. This net is designed for:

Feeding a “mixed” flock

Feeding on the go (in a trailer, stable, trail riding, at a show, etc.)

This means your hay lasts longer, waste is drastically reduced and your horse is kept busy.

Note: All netting should be properly inserted by offering optional “loose hay” with the netting until the horse has demonstrated its ability to eat from the netting.

SF stands for Slow Feed and is a 1 1/4″ small mesh hay net. This net is designed for:

The lightweight goalkeeper

This will significantly slow consumption

Drastically reduce waste

Horses are losing weight while still being content to graze on the web 24/7

Note: All netting should be properly inserted by offering optional “loose hay” with the netting until the horse has demonstrated its ability to eat from the netting.

SFX stands for Slow Feed Extreme and is a 1″ small mesh hay net. This net is designed for:

Extremely easy-care animals and animals with metabolic problems

On a strictly monitored feed feeding program

This increases the time it takes to consume the hay

This will significantly slow consumption

Note: All netting should be properly inserted by offering optional “loose hay” with the netting until the horse has demonstrated its ability to eat from the netting.

8.) Would you make smaller than 1″ SFX?

No, we currently do not offer anything smaller than 1 inch mesh. We have some customers who “double” two nets to try and make the holes even smaller. This usually works best with the SF and SFX sizes.

If you have to go to such extremes to control weight, we recommend increasing the horse training program. (We have also been in this situation personally! If you have any questions, we are always here for you.)

9.) How much does each net style last?

Micro Mini Net – is designed for 1-2 small square bale flakes

Half Bale Net (formerly known as Mini) – is designed for 4-5 small square bale flakes

The West Coast net is designed to accommodate a full 3 string small square bale

Large Bale 4′ Net – is designed for small round bales or multiple small square bales. It fits around bales up to 4×4 in diameter. (If you have a 4’x5′ bale, use the 6′ net for large bales to keep your tasks simple!)

Big Bale Net 5 – We call this our “Goldilocks” net. If the 6ft net is too big and the 4ft net is too small, then the 5ft Goldilocks net is for you!

Large Bale 6′ Net – is designed for large rounds and squares (4 x 4 x 8 and 3 x 3 x 9). This is the most common size we sell! If you have different round bale sizes, we recommend this net.

Please note:

Our nets are designed to take ANY shape you give them

This is an estimate of the hay capacity for each net

We make our nets with ample space to make them easy to fill and easy to use

10.) Which net is best suited for the horse trailer?

Most people recommend the 1 3/4″ Half Bale Net, especially if you don’t use hay nets regularly. The 1 3/4″ Half Bale Net is easy to use and can be hung anywhere or ground fed! Plus… they come in fun strap colors!

11.) Which net should I use for a large square bale?

We recommend the Large Bale 6′ net. This net FITS your 3x3x8 and 4x4x9 square bales.

12.) What are Hay Chix nets made of?

Our nets are made from the highest quality, non-toxic, UV treated DuPont nylon fabric. MADE IN THE USA. Our nets are made right in Mineral Wells, TX by horse/cattle owners like you!

Why is that important? Each mesh goes through an extensive testing process to ensure it is of the quality you want and deserve.

13.) Why does our network have nodes?

After extensive research, we chose knotted nets because they are stronger and easier to repair. Knotless mesh is like pantyhose; The run has no place to stop!

14.) Why are Hay Chix nets more expensive?

Higher quality materials

Handcrafted in the USA – materials and everything!

They last a long time. (You can buy the same cheap hay net 5 times and spend more. ‘The wise man cries once.’)

You have 30 days to try it with our 30-day money-back guarantee (Yes, you can actually use it!)

15.) How do I introduce my Hay Chix network?

We recommend ALWAYS feeding “loose hay” of your choice during the first week, when you are getting your horses or animals used to your new net. EVEN IF your horses have been standing on our nets or other slow-feed nets for years. This will ensure your net lasts and your animals are comfortable and happy!

16.) Should I remove the twine or plastic netting from my bales?

YES SIR. Always remove the loop twine or netting from your pads as not only could this pose a choking/colic hazard, the twine could also come loose from the netting and snag on your animal if the pad is eaten.

17.) What is self-regulation?

Horses are natural grazing animals. They should have 24/7 access to food. However, in today’s world, we are not always taught that or how to do things. The truth is… we’re designed to eat little by little throughout the day. When we feed our horses meals and control everything they do, they can lose their natural ability to tell when they are full.

When given the choice of when to eat, the horse will normally self-regulate its body and adjust back to how it should be. You may see an increase in consumption over the first week or two, but this should settle down and the horse should begin to regulate itself.*

Don’t let your network go empty. We happily swap out the net with about 30 pounds left over and use the 30 pounds as hay of choice for the next bale of net.

18.) Self-regulation does not take place, when then?

Horses usually self-regulate within 3 weeks. Depending on your horse’s life situation; stalled or not, exercise regimen, how long between meals, etc. All of these factors can contribute to how quickly self-regulation occurs. The main thing we suggest is to keep hay in front of them and get more exercise.

19.) My horse won’t eat off the net! Why?

Some horses initially reject the net, assuming you will give them more hay of their choice. Give him time to adjust by offering free choice hay, then give him a longer time with the net (try 12 hours) and see how much your horse has eaten. Almost all horses do well on the 1 3/4″ mesh. If this happens on the 1 1/4″ or 1″ mesh, you may want to swap to a larger orifice size as your horse may become frustrated. If If this is the case an older horse that has lost its will to thrive you may also want to check out our stock 2 1/2″ opening size or talk to your vet about what you can do about his diet to cheer him up.

20.) How do I clean my Hay Chix net?

Clean your mesh with dish soap and warm water, hang to air dry. Do not use harsh chemicals such as bleach as these will break down the fibers and cause the mesh to become brittle. Another quick tip – put your mesh back in place before it dries completely! The web loves moisture.

21.) How do I store my Hay Chix net?

Some people will only use their net during the winter season. For storage, it is best to wash and dry completely. Place them in a storage container to prevent mice and other rodents from chewing and nesting. When you take it out again, wet the mesh. This moisture allows the fibers to puff up again and become stronger.

22.) Can I build my own network?

Check out our DIY mesh! Some people will make their own with our high quality material. However, we believe that we offer a high quality, easy to use, premium product at a great price. Most people find it better to buy the finished mesh from us. After all, your time is worth more than anything else!

23.) Can Hay Chix make me a custom net?

As a rule, we do not accept custom-made products. In bulk we take them on a case by case basis. Please contact us with detailed information: [email protected] so we can help you!

24.) My horse HAS horseshoes, can I use Hay Chix nets?

Yes! You can! You need to hang the net high enough to keep the horse from scratching and hooking a shoe, or place a hay ring around the net that is level with the ground. Visit our Facebook page…the sky’s the limit with shod horses!

You can use:

water tanks

Homemade feeders

tires

Boots (soft rides, etc.)

Visit our Facebook page (Hay Chix) to see some great DIY project ideas!

25.) How do Hay Chix nets differ from other sneak feed nets on the market?

It is not our business to put people down and we believe that there is usually a place in the market for everyone. Our business puts quality, service and knowledge first. We were first to market with our Large Bale Cinch Net and we have a standard set that others are trying to copy.

We have a guarantee on our products that allows you to try them out so you can see whether or not they will work with your nutritional regimen. Our nets are the ONLY university proven facts that CANNOT be generalized as other nets are not made from the same materials or hand sewn as Hay Chix nets.

26.) Which mesh size should I use?…

A mixed herd (Easy and Hard Guardians together.) The majority wins. It may be easier to add more fat and nutrients to your hard keeper and keep all your easy keeper at a good weight with the SF. If you have more hard goalies, choose the 1 3/4″ original and train your light goalies more often.

Easy Keeper(s) – We recommend starting with the SF 1 1/4″. If this doesn’t perform as you hoped within the first 30 days, you can swap out for the SFX 1″.

Foals – Foals usually do well with the original 1 3/4″ or SF 1 1/4″ mesh. If you are concerned about hooves getting caught in the net, be sure to hang the nets high enough or place them in a feeding station.

Draft Horses – Draft Horses work well with all sizes of our nets. Be sure to follow the same guidelines for insertion and determine the hole size based on the horse’s overall body condition.

Donkeys and Mules – Donkeys and mules tend to be very easy to care for, so we recommend sticking with the SF 1 1/4″. If you know your donkey/mule is dangerously overweight, you can use the SFX 1″. Pay attention to the correct introduction of the net with freely selectable hay (with any mesh size).

Goats, Sheep, Llamas and Alpacas – For the smaller foraging herd animals we recommend the SF 1 1/4″ as these animals typically have smaller snouts and are notorious for wasting hay. If the SF 1 1/4″ is not suitable If the If the job isn’t completed within 30 days, you can exchange it for the SFX 1″.

Cattle- We have developed a net specifically for cattle called the Stock Net. This net has 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ holes to allow larger herds of cattle easier access to feed at the same time.

Geriatric Horses – The original 1 3/4″ will usually be the choice for most. If the 1 3/4″ isn’t enough you can swap out for the 2 1/2″ mesh within the first 30 days.

27.) How long does a Hay Chix net last?

If we buy the raw net, we are guaranteed it for 5 years for normal use. Every herd is different and some horses are more food aggressive than others.

The typical customer orders again after about 3-5 years. Remember Hay Chix nets are easy to repair and you can order patch kits and repair thread direct from us.

28.) How many horses can eat from a net?

We recommend no more than 5 horses per round bale to give everyone enough ball time without dominance issues.

29.) Can horses tear holes in a Hay Chix net?

Yes, it’s possible. (There is a fine line between breaking strength and horse safety.) We want the net to tear if a horse/animal gets into a bad situation. The safety of the horses/animals always comes first.

If you follow our recommended guidelines for deployment and don’t let your hay nets go empty, you should have great success. Remember that horses will be toughest in the webs when they learn to eat from them. To show you how much we believe in our product, we’re giving you 30 days to make your decision if our mesh is the right choice for you.

30.) How do I stop the hole tearing behavior?

First of all; Check your nets daily so you can see if there are any new holes. Then we enclose a piece of repair yarn with each net. Use this repair thread to repair this spot as quickly as possible. If you feel the hole is too big for this repair kit, you can contact us for a patch kit or more thread (free within 90 days of purchase).

Try to patch the hole(s) immediately as this discourages bad behavior. After a few repairs, the horse usually stops. If the horse continues to poke holes in the net, email us ([email protected]) with photos. We are always there for you!

31.) Can my horse/animal have paw holes in my Hay Chix net?

While ANYTHING is possible with horses, we don’t usually see this. The horses will likely paw at the net to loosen the hay. If you are concerned about this, use an automatic feeder around the bale of netting.

32.) How do I repair the net with repair yarn?

CLICK HERE to watch a short video!

33.) What is the tear resistance of Hay Chix nets?

The tensile strength of our nets is 385 lbs. The Heavy Duty version weighs 619 lbs.

34.) Has my Hay Chix net shrunk?

Your Hay Chix net should not shrink. The nylon fibers tend to swell over time when exposed to dirt, moisture, freezing and thawing. This gives the mesh a thicker look and is actually a good thing!

35.) My new mesh looks thinner than my old mesh…why?

The nylon fibers tend to swell over time when exposed to dirt, moisture, freezing and thawing. This makes the mesh look thicker and even stronger!

36.) What if my horse has a dental problem?

Depending on the actual problem, Hay Chix nets can be a HUGE benefit to your horse. If your horse tends to eat his hay or is unable to chew it, using a hay chix net (usually the 1 3/4″ original) will reduce the amount of hay he ingests and the horse can it chew and swallow bite. This reduces the need for as much complete feed. If your horse has other dental problems, consult your veterinarian or equine dentist first. In most cases, horses do fine as they usually maneuver the net with their lips .

37.) Can my net freeze to the ground?

Although this is possible, the hay usually insulates the netting under the bale and the horses move the netting enough to keep it from freezing. It can freeze when there is little hay left in the net and freezing rain is forecast. To avoid this, you can secure the opening of the net to the bottom of your feeder, or use a pallet or tarp under the bale of net.

38.) I am tax exempt, do you have to charge me for taxes?

You can fax or email your tax exemption form so that we can keep it on our account file. Once we have this file, we will remove the tax burden.

39.) How can you help my rescue?

Absolutely!!! CLICK HERE to learn more about our White Horse Rehab Program!

40.) Do you sponsor people?

We get so many sponsorship requests every day. We created the Hay Chix Patch program to give everyone a fair chance!

Check out our patch program! HERE

41.) I bought a net from a retailer and would like to exchange it, how can I do that?

If it’s within the first 30 days and you have the original purchase receipt, we’ll make an exchange for 30 days. Customers are responsible for all associated costs for an exchange or return and must have an RGA number to return the product. Here’s the information you need – BACK

42.) How do I become an Authorized Hay Chix Dealer?

Please contact us at [email protected] for dealer information!

43.) Can I get a discount?

Check out our referral program, HERE!

Send your friends a 20% discount offer! If they order through your link, you will receive a $20.00 discount off their next order.

Horse owners tend to have as many opinions about right and wrong as there are blades of grass in the field. But most riders agree on one thing: hay is for horses. The type you choose and how much you feed may vary from horse to horse (as it should!), but there are a few best practices that should come into play no matter what type of hay you’re feeding or on which horse.

Safety comes first when horses are fed hay

We all agree on one thing: Horses need high-quality hay that is free of dust, mold and foreign bodies. Have your hay tested regularly (every few months or so) by your local agricultural advisory board to determine quality. You should also do a daily quality check with your eyes and nose to detect any abnormalities. Quality hay should be green and smell sweet, not dusty, faded, or moldy.

Always untie square bales as soon as you break a bale apart to inspect its contents before feeding. The string or plastic that ties hay bales together is irresistible to some horses, who may chew on it out of boredom – or even ingest it whole. This can lead to very serious health problems for horses, from mere discomfort caused by swallowing (and if lucky passing through) a long piece of string or plastic to impaction colic. For this reason, it is imperative to cut, double and knot both cords so horses cannot accidentally put a foot through or attempt to eat cords should they escape from the garbage bag.

Feed horses hay often

Hay can be a true superfood for horses. It’s one of the most common – and easiest to obtain – feed sources and can also do a world of good to support a horse’s digestive system when fed properly.

That’s because hay can closely mimic horses’ natural feeding and digestive patterns. Horses need to eat small amounts of feed almost constantly. Hay, which provides fibre, nutrients and vitamins in a relatively low-calorie dose, can be fed all year round in this way, giving horses without grazing the opportunity to eat like their ancestors. Even horses that are easy to care for can benefit from frequent access to hay if they are fed correctly.

How to safely feed horses hay

In order to get the maximum benefit from hay, it is important to provide it as often as possible. Free choice hay is ideal. If you have an Easy-Keeper, you should avoid high-protein alfalfa and clover hay, which are higher in calories than mature timothy or grass hay. You might also consider double-bagging an Easy-Keeper’s haynet so he has to work harder to get the hay. Otherwise, you should observe these general principles when feeding:

If the ground is grassy and relatively dry, consider feeding hay on the ground to mimic the way a horse grazes naturally. However, if your soil is sandy or gritty, elevate the hay when feeding over a hay net or manger, as horses can ingest sand or gravel, which can cause impaction colic. Also, consider placing mats under netting or mangers to provide extra protection when horses are poking at the inevitable bits of fallen hay.

Don’t just throw a big round bale in the middle of a horse field and expect everyone to eat from it. The pecking order dictates that the horse that is lowest on the totem pole does not get as much food as the tyrant.

If you have a pecking order problem, separate your problem horses in fenced paddocks. Or consider making several different haystacks in the same paddock separated by 15 feet or more.

promote movement. Frequent exercise (again, mimicking the action of all-day grazing) helps horses’ digestive systems work more efficiently—another good reason to spread hay into several separate piles.

If you’ve ever wondered whether or not you’re feeding hay properly, imagine the diet of your horse’s ancestors. Are you feeding hay slowly, consistently, and without grazing fights? Then you’re probably doing it right to help your horse maintain a strong and healthy digestive system.

Was this article helpful? For more like this, join our email list to be notified of new articles and get exclusive access to the FREE downloads in our e-book library.

Enter the characters you see below

Sorry, we just need to make sure you’re not a robot. For best results please make sure your browser accepts cookies.

Cattle waste 40-50% of a round bale. With our cattle hay nets you waste less than 10%

Cows are built differently than horses from the hooves up. Our livestock round bale net reduces waste without slowing down consumption.

A net for cows

Since cattle do not have upper teeth, they use their tongues to reach for food. A 3-inch hole, almost twice the size of the slow feeding net, makes it easy for them.

Forage with thick stems, such as alfalfa or straw, can be difficult to eat through small holes.

Larger holes make the stock less likely to chew through the mesh.

How much money could you save?

Average hay consumption: 23 lbs. per cow per day.

That’s just under £8,400. (over 4 tons) PER CAPITA, annually.

Before Texas Haynet, two tons of hay per cow were wasted annually.

With Texas Haynet, that waste is reduced to less than half a ton.

Different stomachs, different needs

Horses are monogastric, meaning they only have one stomach. Cows are ruminants, along with sheep, goats, deer, bison, and others, meaning they have four stomachs.

Ruminants process feed much more efficiently than horses. Digestion begins almost immediately after consumption. In addition, ruminants have the ability to ruminate for eight hours a day and continue to break down food material before it is fully digested, making them less prone to ulcers and colic than horses. Therefore, slow feeding is not a problem for ruminants. However, hay waste is still a major pain point for owners. Our cattle hay nets are specially designed for waste disposal.

Also good for special horses

Certain animals may also benefit from a larger opening. Older, blind, or horses with dental problems will find a 3 inch hole easier to use. Horses exposed to extreme winter weather conditions also benefit from the larger holes.