Haynet Filler Stand Diy? The 135 Top Answers

Fast Facts Horses have evolved to eat frequent, small meals of food and spend over 14.5 hours in the pasture each day.

Hay nets with small and medium-sized holes: slow down feed intake. Increase the time it takes adult horses to eat a hay meal

eating behavior

Horses have evolved to eat a few small, feed-based meals throughout the day. They often spend more than 14.5 hours a day on the pasture. But many of today’s horses:

Spend a lot of time in stables or dry plots

Get two large meals a day

Limited chance of foraging

Many horse owners try to mimic a more natural feeding pattern by providing free access to hay. But that often leads to obesity because the horses eat too much.

The University of Minnesota studied the effects of hay net design on the rate and amount of forage eaten by horses. They wanted to see if the hay net’s design mimics more natural feeding without causing weight issues.

Testing Hay Nets Eight adult horses were fed in individual stalls of each of the following: Ground Free

Large Hole Hay Net (6 inch openings)

Medium Hole Hay Net (1.75 inch openings)

Hay Nets with Small Holes (1.0 inch openings) Horses had access to hay in the nets for two 4-hour periods: 7:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Daily. Grass hay was fed twice daily at 1% body weight throughout the experiment. Open All | All close plus sign (+) if content is closed, “X” if content is open. How Nets Changed Eating in Horses Mean feeding rates and intake of horses fed 1% body weight twice daily for four hours Perforated net 2.4 lbs/hr 89% Small-hole net 1.9 lbs/hr 72% A second study showed that horses fed from the medium hole net took a little over 5 hours to eat the hay meal. Horses fed from the small-hole nets took 6.5 hours to eat the meal. Both the control and the large network resulted in consumption times of 3.2 and 3.4 hours, respectively. Plus sign (+) if content is closed, “X” if content is open. Benefits of Hay Nets In adult horses, small and medium-sized nets are effective in: Reducing feed intake

Reducing the amount of food eaten

Increasing Total Forage Eating Time We can estimate that using small or medium-sized hay nets to feed in a stall twice a day would allow horses to forage for 10 to 13 hours a day. This more closely mimics a horse’s natural grazing behavior. Small and medium-sized hay nets are a simple and inexpensive way to increase feeding time when forage feeding horses. The use of the small and medium-sized hay nets is not practical for all horses. Horses need time (usually 4 to 5 feedings) to get used to eating from the nets. Authors: Krishona Martinson, Extension Horse Specialist, Emily Glunk, Former PhD Student, College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Sciences, and Wanda Weber, Research Associate

feeding guidelines

When feeding the horse, there are three general guidelines to follow.

Feeds should be fed at least twice a day. The feed should be fed in evenly distributed amounts. Feeding should be done near or at the same time each day and at evenly spaced intervals throughout the day.

Let’s look at the reasons farm managers, nutritionists, and veterinarians follow these guidelines.

In the wild or in the pasture, horses often eat while they graze throughout the day. This is because their stomachs are small and cannot digest large amounts of food at once (see the Digestion section). Although this is the ideal way to feed a horse, it is difficult for horse owners to feed multiple times a day. However, feeding a large grain meal will result in digestive upsets such as: B. colic, due to an overload of starch in the colon. To prevent digestive problems, if total grain intake exceeds 0.5 percent of the horse’s body weight, total grain intake should be split and fed into two to three feedings per day. Feeding small meals frequently allows the small intestine to digest more starch, so less reaches the large intestine, thereby reducing the incidence of colic.

A horse’s total feed intake should be divided evenly between the number of feeds and fed at or near the same time each day. Infrequent meals or a sudden change in diet can cause changes in gut motility and blood flow, leading to an increased risk of colic. This mainly occurs in horses that are stabled or kept in a paddock. The risk of this type of colic can be reduced by:

Keep food available at all times

Feeding two to three smaller meals throughout the day

Feed the horse as little concentrate as necessary in one feeding.

Individual feeding programs should be designed for individual horses to meet their nutritional needs and maintain appropriate body condition.

Ashley Griffin, University of Kentucky

Horses in Australia generally eat pasture (when available) and all horses should spend around 18 to 20 hours a day grazing and grazing. A horse’s stomach empties in about 25-30 minutes so it is very important that it is provided with a constant supply of roughage in the form of hay or pasture to maintain optimal intestinal and mental health. When pasture is not available, hay is essential to provide this necessary roughage. For this reason, slow feeding horses is a crucial management tool. As a horse owner, you need to make sure you encourage this constant feeding by using a slow feed hay net and following other necessary rules to keep them in their best condition.

Domestication has changed the natural diet and lifestyle of horses. A thorough understanding of horse nutrition and feeding basics is key to ensuring they are healthy and happy at all times. Every horse is different, as is their individual workload, and you must assess their needs and diet to meet those nutritional requirements.

Feeding them properly is one of their basic needs. It may sound simple and quick, but it’s important to remember that there are guidelines you must follow to keep them in tip-top shape. Below are some rules to get you started:

1. Use a slow feed hay net

Using a slow feed hay net not only reduces hay waste, but also makes your horses healthier. Slow feeding has many benefits including improving horses’ physical and mental health.

Hay nets for horses are recommended by veterinarians to help them reduce the incidence of colic, stomach ulcers, stall loads and reduce obesity. A slow-feeding hay net can greatly regulate the amount of hay consumption, resulting in better body weight. An unexpected phenomenon that many customers have reported to us is that by using our GutzBusta® hay nets they have noticed that overweight horses lose weight and lean horses gain weight.

Horses that spend a lot of time in their stable or yard can quickly become bored. By using slow feeders you allow them to eat hay all at once instead of big bites, focus more on their food and be happier with something in their stomach all the time.

If you use a hay net, check it regularly for repairs. Occasionally, people eagerly cutting the bale string while the bale is in the net, or horses eagerly eating or scratching can cause the net to puncture a small hole. A small hole can turn into a nose-sized hole or a head-sized hole if not fixed quickly. You want to prevent this from happening, so you need to make sure you invest in a durable hay net for your horses or livestock. Fix the hole immediately or take the hay net out of service until you fix it lest you teach your horse how to put nose-sized holes in the net.

Our GutzBusta® hay nets are made from durable materials that are UV stabilized and heat treated in 60-ply polyethylene mesh. These types of slow feeder nets are safe, easy to fill and can be used anywhere. We’ve been making these products for over eight years now and we know how the mesh behaves over time. That’s why we’ve generously sized our nets to keep them easy to fill for the life of the hay net.

This net does not absorb water, therefore its properties do not change when it rains and the net does not take on any additional weight when used to soak hay. A quick shake and it’s practically dry again.

GutzBusta® 3cm small hay net

2. Always provide access to clean water

Keeping horses hydrated is very important to their diet. However, simply giving them water is not enough. You also need to make sure it isn’t contaminated and your water supply is as clean and uncontaminated as possible. For example, if you use an automatic drinker, water trough or bucket, always check for green algae or other debris like a dead bird that fell in and drowned. Dams are a good source of drinking water for horses, but make sure the water depth is sufficient so horses are not forced to drink the muddy, putrid water of an almost empty dam.

Remember that the water consumption of horses depends on their body weight. According to Kentucky Equine Research, horses of similar body weight and breed may have different intakes. An idle horse can drink 3 to 7 liters of water for every 220 pounds (100 kilograms) of body weight. This equates to about 4 to 9 gallons for a 500-pound horse. Apparently this intake increases drastically in a hot Australian summer. Horses at work also drink more.

3. Consider weather conditions

When it comes to feeding horses, it is important to consider the time of year or weather conditions. This depends on each horse’s requirements, but in general horses need more fiber in the winter as they need extra energy to stay warm and maintain their body temperature. As the old hands say: “Fodder is as good as a carpet!”

Experts agree that horses should receive at least 1.5 to 3% of their body weight in some form of hay, feed cubes or combinations. Their eating habits or eating habits should also be carefully monitored during the colder months. Some weight loss in the winter is normal, and it’s actually not a bad thing to have a little weight loss in the spring while grazing in the pasture. Winter weight loss is not ideal for older horses or broodmares, but not bad for paddock dressage or ponies.

The summer season is also a challenge for horses. You sweat a lot and your body temperature rises, so you have to adjust your water intake during the hot summer months. Electrolytes and salt licks can also be beneficial for your horses. These help replace the minerals lost through sweating.

4. Feed them by weight, not cookies

Some horse owners tend to feed their horses hay biscuits. Although easy and convenient, feeding should always be by weight. Just like water intake, food intake also depends on body weight.

A horse should eat about 1.5 to 2.5% of its body weight. Therefore, a 1,000-pound horse that is working moderately should be fed 25-25 pounds of feed per day. If your horse is overweight, it is advisable to feed it 1.5% of its body weight per day.

In the spring and often in the fall, horses tend to become overweight or obese because they consume more calories or more sugar from grazing. This can predispose them to the dreaded and painful condition of laminitis. If your horse or pony is already locked away from the spring pasture and only fed hay, weighing the hay instead of feeding it per biscuit will help you determine how much it should be eating.

Again, using slow-feed hay nets comes in handy. You can load the nets with the right amount of hay for your horses in any amount that suits your individual needs. You can also regulate the feeding rate by choosing a net hole size that suits your individual horse or pony as our hay nets are available with 3cm, 4cm and 6cm holes. At GutzBusta® we also offer a hay scale that is perfect for our slow feed hay nets. With this tool you can determine how much hay your horses should be given based on their lifestyle.

GutzBusta® hay scale

5. Look for hay alternatives

Hay shortages are a real problem, especially in a drought. When supply is insufficient, owners look for alternatives to keep their horses healthy. But you don’t have to worry because there are various hay substitutes that you can feed your horses.

Beet pulp is a good source of fiber. Some horse owners find that they eat less hay when they feed their horses beet pulp. It can also be incorporated into forage or hay. Feed pellets, on the other hand, contain dried alfalfa or grass blends engineered to replace hay. But nothing is as good as hay if the right pasture is not available.

If you are looking for other hay substitutes, you can try soybean hulls. A study shows that soybean hulls stimulate cecal fermentation and are sometimes a great substitute or supplement to lengthen your hay when supplies are running low. These are rich in fiber and are well accepted by most horses. Both beet pulp and Maxisoy have their positives and negatives, so it is up to the owner to consider all of these things and make the best decision based on your individual horse or pony.

As with anything, it is up to the owner to do their own research as to what is appropriate for them and the unique situations of their horses and other livestock.

These are just some of the common hay alternatives that you can use to feed your horses. Note that when making changes to your horse’s diet, always make sure to do so gradually. Sudden food changes can lead to colic or indigestion.

Whether you’re switching to slow feeding or want to waste hay, a hay net can be a great solution. Slow feed hay nets are lightweight, portable and easy to use, but choosing a hole size can be overwhelming. To make this decision a little easier for you, we’ve created a quick hole selection guide with answers to some of the most common questions we get.

Small Holes 1-1.75″

To slow consumption and avoid as much waste as possible, stick with a hole that’s 2 inches or less.

Ideally, you want to ensure a continuous supply of hay 24/7. By holding the food in front of your horse longer, you can help prevent or alleviate many digestive, metabolic, and behavioral problems. To help prevent colic and ulcers, we recommend hay nets with 1.75″ holes when feeding round bales and 1-1.5″ holes when feeding flakes or small squares.

For minis, we recommend a 1″ hole. Known for getting overweight, most minis require a smaller hole and smaller portions.

90% of horses have no problem with 1.75″ holes. If your horse has a relaxed/easygoing personality, then we recommend starting where a larger hole and thicker material comes into play.

Medium/large holes 2+”

Larger holes (2+”) are ideal for horses that have struggled with small holes in the past. If your horse has destroyed a hay net with 1.5″ holes then you can be fairly certain that it will do the same with a net will make with 1.75″. In this case, we recommend increasing the hole size by at least 1/2″, if not more, and consider using a thicker mesh.

Horses that tend to be destructive in the pasture or stable also tend to be harsh with nets because they tend to get frustrated with small holes. In this case, in addition to a larger hole, we also recommend using a thicker mesh such as our Heavy Gauge Net. Larger/heavier breeds such as those from the Draft or Warmblood families tend to do better with larger holes and thicker netting.

Horses with special needs, such as the blind or seniors with dental problems, are good candidates for big holes. A larger hole will make feeding time much easier for them and ensure they can get enough. Most horses in this category do well with a 3 inch hole.

Horses exposed to harsh winter conditions can also benefit from larger holes. Because extreme temperatures increase calorie needs, you want to make access as easy as possible. Smaller holes can cause additional stress by creating frustration.

Cattle generally do better with 3-inch holes. Retrieving hay through smaller holes can be challenging as they have no upper teeth and rely on their tongues to grab forage. In addition, cattle are ruminants. Their digestive system is completely different from that of horses. They’re not as prone to colic and ulcers, so slow feeding through small holes isn’t as important.

Another factor to consider is the type of feed you are using. Large holes are the best choice for hay that is long, coarse, or thick like alfalfa or straw. Thick stemmed feed can be difficult and sometimes impossible to pull through hay nets with small holes.

Be prepared

Finding the right hay net can take some trial and error. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different hole sizes. There is no one size fits all and no net is indestructible.

Horses are very similar to humans. They have different personalities, different levels of patience, and different learning speeds. Plan some time in the beginning to help your horse understand the new feeding concept.

Holes can occur. Although most horses adapt easily to slow feeding, some will become frustrated and destroy anything in their way at mealtime. Typically, this behavior wears off after the first 30 days. However, this is when you are most likely to encounter holes in your web. Luckily, hay nets are easy to repair and the hay savings and health benefits far outweigh the occasional hole.

Find out what fits your nutritional program. Check out our full range of nets, feeder kits and hole sizes. If you need help choosing, give us a call. We’re happy to help.

Showing your horse promotes a healthier, more regulated digestion.

(Dusty

Proper involvement of dressage horses can be a difficult and often daunting topic of discussion. Many dressage facilities do not allow large participation. Some top dressage horses find almost no turnout. The financial investment in these horses can make taking them to a larger field daunting for the owner fearing the worst. Will the horse come back in one piece? Will he still have all his shoes?

Grazing a horse has many advantages. As with us humans, fresh air, light and exercise increase well-being. It makes a horse happier and happier in general. Many top dressage riders have discovered the benefits of pasture, including the mental break it offers the horse, especially when engaged in stressful training or traveling frequently during show season. I always tell my clients that the horse needs time to be a horse. Just as you need time to relax after a stressful day at work or a soothing shower after a hard workout, horses need their paddock time to roll, gallop, snort and whinny. The rolling, bucking, kicking, and any other acrobatics your horse performs around his field may make you hold your breath (or cover your eyes) as you watch, but these natural movements help him stretch sore, tight muscles and realign his spine and help his respiratory system clear the arena of dust. All of this promotes healthy muscle repair after a workout. It is important that horses are still allowed to be horses when the time is right.

Showing your horse promotes healthier, more regulated digestion as the stomach can produce less stomach acid and the production of stomach ulcers is reduced. All mammals’ digestive systems are different and designed to function based on the animal’s natural diet and environment. Before domestication, horses roamed freely and grazed continuously 24 hours a day. Their stomachs are relatively small as they are designed to eat small meals throughout the day. Most horses that are kept in a stable are fed two to three times a day as this is manageable for the condition. This results in larger meals to ensure the horse’s nutritional needs are met.

On the other hand, the risk of injury is arguably higher when you expose your horse. Injuries can occur when grazing on uneven surfaces, deep underground, wet sand, mud or slippery surfaces. Even when competed with other horses, herd dynamics and hierarchy can pose risks in the struggle for dominance.

How long should a horse be mated? This depends on his individual needs and the nature of the switch surface. Unless the horse has an injury to rehabilitate, most will do well with prolonged use, even 24 hours a day. The shorter turnout time at most boarding houses and training facilities is usually due to a larger number of horses than the paddock can accommodate, so turnout is rotated. Also, many horses may do better with night or day exercise, depending on their individual health needs. Some may have difficulty sweating or breathing problems that require less engagement time than average horses. If the ambient temperature is too hot or too cold, this can result in the horse using its energy to cool or warm itself, which can reduce its energy for training and performance.

If you suspect your horse is prone to metabolic issues like insulin resistance or Cushing’s disease, he may need less or no grazing to maintain his health. Excessive weight gain, poor hoof health, poor coat or even laminitis can be signs of an underlying metabolic disease. Contact your veterinarian about these concerns. There are many tests that can be performed to help determine these diagnoses and the best treatment plans.

If the ground is very sandy or the run area has been grazed, sand consumption is a problem that can cause sand colitis or sand enteritis. Symptoms of sand colitis include mild, chronic colic (stomach pain), diarrhea, and weight loss. Feeding the horse on rubber stall mats and feeding it a psyllium product will help reduce the amount of sand he may ingest. Psyllium is a bulk laxative that settles in the villi of the colon to sweep out the excess sand. When the pasture has been grazed to the point where the horse has little or no grass to eat, supplementation with grass hay and/or alfalfa hay is recommended. As with all of your nutritional and pasture management needs, consult your veterinarian for the best plan for your horse.

What is the best time of day to vote? If the horse is white-faced like many Paints, or has a large white patch on the face, the risk of squamous cell carcinoma or severe sunburn is high. In these cases, night participation is usually recommended. A fly mask does not always fully cover the area and only some fly masks actually provide UV protection. There are some products that offer UV protection in the form of ointments.

When your horse arrives at a new stable, you may have a choice of individual exercise or shared pasture/paddock. Because horses are herd animals, there will always be a social order that must be established among the horses at the first joint display. There will be one dominant horse, and the rest will find their place in the pecking order over time. Ideally, introduce one new horse at a time to pasture dynamics under supervision. Horses must figure out the order of dominance in their own way, which often involves biting and/or kicking.

As a dressage rider, I know that alone is enough to instill fear in any owner. However, once the order is established, horses are generally more comfortable and mentally stimulated when they come out together as it is more in line with their natural herd mentality. However, some horses can become overly attached to their herdmates.

Every situation is different and should be closely monitored in the early stages. Examine your horse thoroughly (both sides) when it comes back from the field. Missing shoes? Any bite marks? Any new wounds? Any swelling? Is he healthy at walk and trot? Various combinations can be made until the best herd scenario is found.

Any time a change is introduced, whether it’s a new flock or a new feeding routine, the change needs to be incremental. When it comes to feed and exercise, the horse’s gastrointestinal system is quite sensitive and can be overwhelmed by switching too quickly. I recommend a feed change over a period of 14 days.

When introducing voter turnout, the same approach is ideal, although not always followed. If there is lush grass in the new field, a grazing mouth is helpful when grazing time is not limited but grazing is not desirable. If the horse is suspected of having metabolic problems, it may be necessary to graze until the early hours of the morning or not at all to reduce the horse’s carbohydrate intake. Your vet can advise you on this.

Most horses enjoy being exposed. You must weigh the risks and benefits for your individual situation to ensure your horse stays safe but happy and content. Consulting your veterinarian and trainer together as a team can help you come up with the best plan possible.

Ciera Guardia, DVM, received his PhD in Veterinary Medicine from Texas A&M University. As a teenager and throughout her student career, she was a competitive FEI dressage rider and assistant trainer at Windy Knoll Farm in Magnolia, Texas, under USDF “S” Judge Fran (Dearing) Kehr. As an FEI Registered Attending Vet, she operates Guardia Equine Sports Medicine in Cypress, Texas.

We know that horses have to eat either grass or hay. When horses eat grass, you need to keep an eye on their condition and make sure they’re not overeating or undereating. Horses can overeat grass, especially when the pasture is lush, but it’s also easy for a horse to become overweight from eating hay. And sometimes not enough hay can mean a horse loses weight. So what is the right amount of hay for your horse?

How much your horse needs depends on its weight. According to the Ontario Department of Agriculture, an adult horse should eat about 12 to 15 pounds (5.4 to 6.8 kg) of hay per day. That’s 1.5% to 3% of its body weight if it weighs around 450 kg. This is a very rough average and horses may need more or less depending on their metabolism, workload, what else they eat and the time of year. Ponies require significantly less, while large draft breeds can eat 30 pounds (13.6 kg) or more per day.

How to feed hay

Having small amounts of hay available that can be fed frequently mimics the natural grazing instinct and is healthiest for your horse’s mind and body. So try not to feed your horse all day in one meal. It will likely gobble up the best parts of the meal, leaving the least palatable ones, and then trample the rest into the ground. For the healthiest digestive system and the happiest horse, it is best to always have hay available. Most horses regulate themselves, but many do not. Some horses need to limit hay feeding to prevent obesity. Such horses should be fed small, more frequent portions. For many horses, all they need is hay, and they don’t need concentrates like oats or sweet feed, or extra-rich hay that contains legumes like clover and alfalfa.

Small square bales

However, the next question is: how much is that for a small square bale? What you need to do is weigh an average bale of hay. It should weigh about 60 lbs or 23 kg. The exact weight depends on how dry the hay is, how long the bales are and how dense the hay is baled. Next, count how many flakes are in the bale. The flakes are the easily separable sections that form when a square bale is picked up by the baler. It’s usually around 12. Now divide the weight of the bale by the number of flakes in it. You can now calculate the approximate number of flakes you should be feeding your horse each day. So if a flake weighs about four pounds, you need to feed your 1,000 pound horse five flake every day. Remember to feed as many small portions as possible.

ponies and draft horses

Because ponies have slower metabolisms than horses, they require a lower percentage of their body weight in hay unless they are working very hard, which few ponies do anymore. Small ponies may only need a few flakes a day to keep them in good condition. Conversely, some draft horses, particularly those that work hard, require rather more than the normal ratio of hay. This is why it is so important to regularly monitor your horse’s condition and make adjustments based on the time of year, heat or cold, workload, age, hay content and general health of the horse.

Horses have evolved to frequently graze on small amounts for up to 15 hours a day. But today horses and ponies are often stabled for part or all of the day and fed a limited supply of preserved forage such as hay or haylage. This ultimately restricts their natural feeding pattern. If not addressed appropriately, it can increase the risk of illness and/or abnormal behavior.

In the past, the quality of forage such as grass or hay was too poor to meet the high energy needs of working horses, so their diet was high in grains. Grains are now commonly included in daily rations, although they are now more common in complementary feeds. However, this may mean providing less feed, particularly for performance horses.

If the nutritional or behavioral needs of chewing or eating food are not met, the horse’s health can suffer. Possible consequences are gastrointestinal diseases such as ulcers, colic and diarrhea or the development of behavioral problems. These needs are now better understood and have been agreed upon in the form of recommendations recently published in the scientific journal ANIMAL.

“Significant changes to the recommendations for feeding hay or haylage to horses have been agreed,” explains Dr. Pat Harris. “We now have a much better and deeper understanding of the nutritional needs of horses, so it seemed prudent to update the guidance for anyone who feeds horses to reflect this.” Harris, director of equine studies at the WALTHAM Center for Pet Nutrition, joined other equine nutrition experts to review the extensive research. “Together we have agreed to update the recommendations which we hope will ultimately improve the health and welfare of all horses.”

In Europe, haylage is increasingly being used as feed. It is not uncommon for owners to underfeed haylage, as it is commonly used to replace hay on a weight-for-weight basis, or when there are concerns about possible weight gain or undesirable behavior due to its higher energy value. As the new minimum feed intake recommendation based on this review rises dramatically from 10g to 15g dry matter per kg body weight (gDM/kg bw), it is all the more important to ensure horses are given adequate feed, particularly haylage.

But what does that actually mean?

“Ultimately this means increasing the minimum amount of hay for a 350kg pony from almost 4 to almost 6kg per day (assuming 90% dry matter) or increasing haylage from 5kg to 7.5kg (assuming of 70% dry matter). ‘ emphasized Dr. harris.

Obviously, with a larger Thoroughbred horse, the increase in the daily amount of haylage is more dramatic.

A 550 kg whole blood needs another 4 kg to reach the minimum recommendation of almost 12 kg (at a dry matter content of 70%).

In order to further replicate natural feeding behavior, food should ideally be freely available throughout the day. If this is at least not possible, horses should not be left without an opportunity to feed for more than 4-6 hours. Although different recommendations have been made for horses that require a drastic reduction in caloric intake, the need to forage and chew still remains important.

To read the full overview paper,

Harris et al., 2016. Review: Feeding preserved forage to horses: current advances and recommendations. ANIMAL. Available online.

What is dry matter?

Dry matter (DM) is the content of a forage or roughage that remains after the water or moisture has evaporated. Hay typically has the highest dry matter content, with the new terminology defining this as over 85% DM. Haylage has a much lower DM content, which according to this new publication can be as high as 50%.

How do I find out the dry matter content of my hay or haylage?

For commercial haylage, the dry matter content may be listed on the feed bag or may be available from the company’s website. However, haylage and hay purchased direct from farmers are unlikely to have this information. There are a number of feed analysis services that can give you basic nutritional information for a small fee.

What does g DM/kg bw mean?

“g DM/kg bw” means how many grams of dry matter you should feed per kilogram of your horse’s body weight.

How do I calculate how much TM my horse gets?

To calculate the minimum value for your horse, multiply its body weight (in kg) by 15. This is how many grams of TM it needs per day. If you know the dry matter content of your feed, multiply the grams by 100 and then divide by the dry matter percentage. For example, if a 500 kg horse is fed haylage with a dry matter content of 70%, it needs 500 x 15 = 7500 g DM per day. For this horse’s haylage, this would mean feeding 7500 x 100 ÷ 70 = 10714g or 10.7kg of haylage per day.

Practice safe trailer towing with advice on tying in the trailer, how to secure your horse safely outside of the trailer and what to do in an emergency.

As with most things in life, doing what you can to prevent a trailer accident is far better than trying to fix the problem after the fact, especially if you or your horse is seriously injured. In my Large Animal Emergency Rescue Course, I place an emphasis on avoiding trailer accidents.

Far too many of these injuries result from how horses are secured in their trailers. Should you tie your horse at all? There are arguments on both sides. I’ll give you the ins and outs of tying trailers along with six tying safety tips. Then I will explain how to tie your horse safely outside the trailer and what to do in an emergency.

combine advantages and disadvantages

Advantages:

Tethering your horse in the trailer is to prevent it from injuring, rolling over and/or biting/disturbing an adjacent horse. A stray horse can seriously injure another that is unable to fight back, causing a wreck if the injured horse tries to escape the attack.

Tethering your horse will also prevent him from lying down, crawling under a partition and/or burying his head under a barrier and then panicking when he raises his head. Tying also controls the head of an unruly or aggressive horse or stallion.

Disadvantages:

Your horse may get a foot (or trailer snag) caught in the tether, then panic and injure itself. Note, however, that you can tie him tight enough to keep him from snagging your foot (and annoying his traveling buddy) and still give him enough slack to balance himself.

You could also forget to untie your horse before opening the trailer door, causing panic and injury. It is extremely important that you untie your horse before opening the door. You should also teach him a cue about unloading so he knows when you expect him to start exiting the trailer.

6 trailer safety tips

If you’re transporting your horse even a short distance, follow these tying safety tips.

• Prepare feed carefully. If your horse is tethered, provide him with hay in a bag that he cannot put his feet in or wrap around his head. When he’s not tethered, lay the hay on the ground so he can maintain a more natural head and neck position. By lowering his head, he can drain debris from his respiratory system, which helps prevent respiratory diseases.

• Avoid bungee cords. If you decide to tie your horse in the trailer, do not use a tether. This type of cord used in this way is dangerous to both horses and humans. I know of a horse that got out of a four-in-hand trailer while still hanging from the rope – then broke! I know numerous horses and people who have lost eyes and had their faces cut open with these products.

• Use a breakable tie rope. To avoid tragedy when tying down the trailer, use a tie rope that breaks under pressure, such as a tie rope. B. one made of leather or a hay cord. Or invest in a high-tech option, like Davis Turtle Snap Cross Ties or Safety-Release Trailer Tie products from JEMAL Escape Mechanisms. Attach the breakaway attachment cord directly to the attachment or ring of the trailer for it to work properly.

• Leave some slack. A myth about tying trailers is that the tie rope helps your horse balance and even keeps him from falling off if he loses his balance. That’s wrong. To see how your horse balances in the trailer, get a trailer camera and watch it balance as it turns, stops, and accelerates. Your horse needs some slack in the rope so he can use his head and neck for balance. Standing up in a trailer while driving requires constant small adjustments in his muscles, even on the freeway at a constant speed. Short ties in particular would make it almost impossible for him to balance using his own weight and normal methods, or to stand up after a fall.

• Pay attention to the ends of the rope. If you want to tie your horse in the trailer, make sure that the loose end of the tie rope cannot come out of the trailer. Outside the trailer, the end of the rope could become tangled around the axle or some other object. This scenario will likely result in a tragic death.

• Train your horse. Teach your horse to load and unload safely with the help of a renowned trainer. Train your horse specifically to yield to pressure and only leave the trailer when given a specific signal. Practice loading not only for routine trips, but so he learns this important evacuation skill. It then charges regardless of bad weather and other adverse conditions.

Note: Loading your horse into the trailer is one of the most difficult and dangerous activities you will ever attempt. Owners get crushed, kicked, kicked and run over by horses while the horses themselves get badly cut, get their heads and legs pinched and then become frightened, which contributes to their reluctance to get in the trailer at all in the future. When loading and unloading, always stay out of your horse’s way and patiently teach him how to load with the help of a professional.

Outside the trailer

Horses are notorious for putting their legs and hooves in dangerous places – and the side of a trailer has many potential traps for these fragile structures. Tragic injuries include a hoof caught between tires, through windows or in air vents, or a halter caught on a protruding obstacle such as a hasp, door hinge or bucket hook.

Other common scenarios are panicked retreats which can result in the horse falling and being hung up by the halter and tied to the trailer or even underneath. This is how you secure your horse safely outside the trailer.

• Tie up. Tie your horse higher than his withers to limit the leverage he can exert on a tie.

• Use a cable tie. Use a tag tying product that will give it more room while keeping it farther from the tag than a straight tie would do. I recommend the overhead spring tie.

• Use a safety binding. Alternatives include a mechanism that releases your horse after a certain amount of pressure is applied. I recommend the JEMAL Safety Release Trailer Tie or Safety Release Cross Tie. Safety products that will prevent your horse from getting loose include Blocker Tether Rings, the Spring Tie, the HiTie Trailer Tie System, and the Tie-Safe Cross Tie.

• Attach the panic lock. A panic buckle is a good idea, but attach it to the other end, away from your horse and not on his halter. If he panics, don’t get close enough to hurt him. • have a weak link. Have something in the binding system that breaks when your horse is really struggling. This can be a leather latigo, a Velcro fastener, a piece of hay cord or even a cheap metal clip. • Avoid boredom. Give your horse plenty of hay to minimize injury-causing behavior problems like fiddling, scratching, playing with buckets, etc. • Give room to several horses. If tying more than one horse, give them plenty of room so they don’t kick each other or get tangled or tangled in each other’s ties.

• Consider alternatives. If you’re staying in one place for a while, consider feeding your horse up instead of tying it to the trailer. Or use a temporary pin.

emergency measures

In Emergency Large Animal Rescue Training, I emphasize to rescuers that no one should be allowed into a horse trailer for any reason, especially a trailer that has been thrown on its side or on the roof with frightened and injured animals inside. This includes owners, bystanders and veterinarians who may want to go into this tight space to rescue the horses.

It is better to wait until trained emergency responders such as firefighters arrive at the scene. They conduct an external rescue using tools to free the animals.

Your job is to stay calm to call for help and assess the situation. By using these basic response techniques you can be extremely useful in an emergency and actually learn how to save your own horse.

At the side of the road, responders are more concerned about your safety than their horse’s – and with good reason. This is a very dangerous situation when traffic is passing.

Most horses survive trailer wrecks surprisingly well if they stay in the trailer and don’t get thrown out. They tend to injure themselves standing up, so a breakaway tie-down strap is recommended.

Rebecca Gimenez, PhD (Animal Physiology), is a Principal Instructor for Large Animal Technical Rescue. She is a major in the United States Army Reserve, a decorated veteran of the Iraq War, and a former logistics officer for the American Veterinary Medical Association’s Veterinary Medical Assistance Teams. She is an invited lecturer on animal rescue issues around the world and a veteran equine journalist.

If you grew up in the country, you looked forward to the annual county or state fair. It was the perfect opportunity to bring your prized animals out for some friendly – or maybe fierce – competition in the show ring.

If you look across the parking lot, you’ll likely see a long line of open storage trailers stretching as far as the eye can see. While these classic trailers may be perfect for transporting your prized pig or pair of heifers, they may not work as well for your horses.

Are warehouse trailers the best option for security?

Years ago when we were building a lot of production trailers, most people were looking for an open side trailer with louvers instead of windows. They wanted an open interior with maybe a center cut gate to separate the front and back.

People were drawn to the illusion of increased airflow, cooler interiors, and a certain raw build quality. It didn’t hurt that these storage trailers also saved the buyer a few bucks.

Since then we have encountered some issues with stick trailers when it comes to horses. Of course we will continue to build them for our customers. However, we would like to point out some issues that may affect your taste towards one of our other accompanying models.

Increased eye and leg injuries

First of all, those open slats in a livestock trailer can pose a hazard to your horses’ eyesight. Small pieces of gravel and other pavement debris can be thrown up by traffic and injure your horses’ eyes. We’ve heard about it many times… to the point where we recommend that you transport your horse with a fly mask when in a trailer like this.

We also saw horses with leg injuries because the side bars were too far apart. The distance between these battens should be a maximum of 2 1/2 or 3 inches to prevent a hoof from bolting. With openings this small, the airflow benefit is minimal compared to a regular window with a screen.

No supports for horses to balance –

Also, a classic production trailer doesn’t have internal supports to help your horse balance when accelerating or turning…not to mention when someone needs to hit the brakes! Without internal bulkheads to aid balance, it is not uncommon for horses to fall while being driven in a livestock trailer. This can lead to injuries.

Airflow and Temperature Issues –

Often people are drawn to the idea of ​​a storage trailer because they believe it will keep their horses cooler on a hot summer day. In reality, the type of construction material used throughout the trailer design has a much greater impact on temperature.

Using a heat reflective material like our SafeBump roof system along with a non-aluminum chassis and floor will make a dramatic difference in your trailer’s internal temperature. Even a fully enclosed trailer with windows will keep your trailer cool and comfortable if it includes the right construction materials. In addition, a fully insulated roof and side panels help keep your trailer cooler and quieter for your horse.

road noise –

Speaking of noise… imagine driving down the freeway with the windows down. The wind that rushes in is a muffled roar alongside the honk of the 18 wheeler and the squeak of the motorbike whizzing around you. Now imagine what it’s like for your horse to hear these sounds through the slats of a classic livestock trailer. Often a closed trailer is a much quieter and less stressful option!

Costs –

Many of our customers are looking for storage trailers to save a few bucks. And for some other manufacturers, pricing models can reflect these savings. But here at Double D Trailers, we incorporate ALL of our top safety features – SafeBump roof, insulated walls, non-aluminum flooring, Z-frame chassis – into every single trailer we build. It doesn’t matter if it’s a stock trailer or an enclosed trailer like our patented SafeTack Reverse Load trailer.

So for us the only real difference in price is building louvers and installing windows. Believe it or not, slatted frames are more labor intensive…so our stock trailers can actually cost more than an enclosed trailer design.

So what’s the verdict?

In our opinion, livestock trailers are best suited for transporting livestock such as sheep, goats, cattle or pigs…NOT horses. Horses are more prone to injury, far more valuable, and livestock trailers lack many of the safety features we would want them to have.

If you have any questions about the best trailer type for your own specific needs, be sure to contact Brad. He’s happy to help!

As horse owners, we find that we need to move horses from one place to another, be it a few miles or a few hundred miles. When I first started dragging my horses long distances, I was looking for helpful tips on how to do it safely. Through research and experience I have found that the better we plan and are prepared for a long distance with our horses, the more successful the outcome.

A month before the start of the trip, I carefully plan my route. I don’t like driving in a lot of traffic, so if I’m driving through busy areas, I try to plan for off-peak hours, such as late afternoons. B. at the weekend or in the morning. If I’m going to be out for more than a day, I look for stables or fairgrounds where the horses can take a nice break from the road and give themselves the rest they need. Call the stables ahead of time to make sure they have space and inquire about the type of areas they have. I prefer a nice exercise area for the horses, but some prefer indoor stables. To find places to stay, I search Google for stables or fairgrounds in the areas I want to stop at. I look at the routes and try not to go longer than 8 hours between overnight stays. I don’t have a caravan with LQ so I’m trying to find hotels near the stables. Most stables and fairgrounds have adequate space to park trailers. There’s a lot to be said for stops that aren’t too far out of your way and are easy to find, especially if you arrive after dark. Most places are very good at giving good directions and information on accommodating your horses.

If you are traveling across state lines you must have a Coggins test (which is valid for 1 year) and a health certificate. You should plan at least 2 weeks in advance to be sure of the results by travel time. For veterinary emergencies, my vet also sends in Prevail, Bute, and Antibiotic Eye Ointment. Also, keep your trailer stocked with veterinary wrap, scissors, knife, tape, fly spray, linage, and anything else you can routinely use on your horses.

The week before the trip, I make sure my vehicle and trailer are in top condition. Check the tires, check all fluids, make sure the bearings are packed and that the ground under the trailer mats is in good condition. Also make sure there are no blown fuses when hitching the trailer to your truck and that all lights are working.

Long-distance transport can be stressful for horses, but it doesn’t have to be if you plan ahead and pay attention to details. First, make sure the horse can be comfortably loaded into the trailer you will be bringing it into. Loading into a closed trailer is very different than loading into a livestock trailer. I find that the sloping trailers with bumpers are much gentler on the horse on long journeys. Also, make sure you get used to it beforehand when using the push bars for the first time. If your horse has never been ridden in the trailer, make sure you take him out on the road a few times before the ride to give him a feel for the movement.

To prevent colic and to promote water intake on the go, I give my horses psyllium for the 7 days before departure. The day before and during the trip, I add a powdered electrolyte to the grain to encourage water absorption.

When preparing for the day, I make sure I have enough hay and forage for the journey. The Cashel Hay Bale Bags are good for storing the hay and keeping it dry in the back of the truck. Or you can also store hay in the front box of the trailer if there is space. I use hay sacks to feed the horses along the way and make sure I have physical access to more hay to fill their feed troughs while I’m out. I also clip a bucket of water in front of them and use the Horse Spa Hole N Hole to keep the water from spilling while the horses can drink. I always place wood shavings on the trailer floor to absorb urine and prevent slipping while also providing a soft cushion for her legs. Most trailers have a 25-gallon water tank, so make sure it’s full to use on the road.

I also tie my horses in the trailer when towing. You can use either your lead or a harness with a safety release. I use the latter for my young horse that likes to loosen up. When tying, make sure the tie is secure, that there is enough length of rope for them to eat their hay and drink water, but not fall too far below the level of the feed trough. No one wants a horse’s legs to get tangled and panic causing real harm to the horse.

After loading the horses and before hitting the road, I do a thorough tour to make sure all doors and windows are secure, trailer running and brake lights are working, and all seat belts are in place.

On the way, I make sure the horses let the air circulate, but I don’t allow them to stick their heads out of the window. Most trailers have bars and/or grilles over the windows that allow the horse to see outside and allow plenty of air circulation. These also fall down when you need access to the horse’s head and to place more hay and water for the horses during the journey. Be aware of outside temperatures in case you need to adjust the circulation pattern.

On the way I make sure to stop at least every 3 hours to refuel and give the horses about ½ hour rest. Make sure you allow for this time when planning your trip, especially if you’re on a tight schedule (and the looser your itinerary the better, because the unexpected always happens!). I don’t unload my horses on the way. Horses are fine in a trailer for up to 9 hours as long as they have food and water, and unloading mid-journey will only significantly increase your finish time. Better get where you want to go and let them – and you – rest long.

And if you decide to hire a haulier to transport your horses, do your research and ask lots of questions! Make sure they have overnight stops when unloading, that they provide water and feed on the journey, and that they clean the trailers well between trips.

If travel becomes necessary, please consider some of these tips to ensure you and your horse have a stress-free journey!

Technical storage or access is for statistical purposes only.

Technical storage or access is for anonymous statistical purposes only. Information stored or retrieved solely for this purpose cannot usually be used to identify you without a subpoena, voluntary consent from your ISP, or additional recording by a third party.