How To Make A 4Afe Faster? Quick Answer

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A narrow-valve, DOHC, 16-valve carbureted engine, the 4AF, was produced from 1987 to 1990. Power was 94 hp or 70 kW at 6000 rpm and 135 Nm at 3600 rpm. Then came the 4A-FE and 4A-GE engines, which, due to their adaptability to large increases in power, were popular with engine builders and enthusiasts of high-performance Street cars were extremely popular.

The two generations of the 4A-FE engine can be recognized by the external shape of the engine. The first generation 1987-1993 featured a label on the head that read “16-valve EFI” and fuel injectors in the cylinder head. The second generation had a higher profile cam design, a cam cover with ribs along its entire length, and fuel injectors in the intake manifold runners. Mechanically, the engines on the last few models received redesigned pistons, intake ports and intake manifold, as well as upgraded ECU and air flow meters for induction.

Toyota designed this engine with fuel economy in mind. The 4A-FE is basically the same as the 4A-F, the most obvious difference being the EFi (Electronic Fuel Injection) system, denoted by the letter “E”. The engine was superseded by the 3ZZ-FE, a 1600cc engine with VVTi (Variable Valve Timing Injection) technology.

The 4A-FE differs from the 4A-GE in terms of power and performance. Although both engines have the same displacement and both are DOHC engines. The first obvious difference is that the valves were spaced 22.3° apart, compared to 50° on the G-series engines. The second is that it used a “slave cam system”, meaning that both camshafts are geared together and driven by one camshaft sprocket, causing both camshaft sprockets to be rotated by the timing belt. Although the valve angle is closer to what is considered ideal for performance in some racing circles, its other design differences and low-rpm tuned intake means it has about 10% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. The 4A-FE engine design improves fuel efficiency and torque, but sacrifices performance. Although not as powerful as the 4A-GE, both engines are known for the power they produce from such a small displacement compared to most other engines in their league.

The fourth generation of the 4A-GE engine was produced from 1991 to 1995. It has silver cam covers with chrome lettering, hence the nickname ‘Silver Top’, as with all other variants, for the distinctive Tapat cover. This engine again features a completely new cylinder head that uses 5 instead of four valves per cylinder. It uses the Toyota Variable Valve Timing system on the intake cam, an increased compression ratio (10.5:1), and the intake system was replaced with a short manifold with individual throttles, and Toyota retained the impeller air flow meter. The previous 16-valve head used a heavily curved intake port, while the 20-valve engine used very vertical straight ports for breathing. This engine delivers 118 kW at 7,400 rpm with 162 Nm of torque at 5,200 rpm.

For more information CLICK HERE “Toyota Engines / Engine Parts / Engineering” or Call Center: 0861 7777 22

Of all the great qualities a Corolla has, horsepower doesn’t top the list. Totally understandable that you’d want to add some zip!

Highly recommend that you have it done at the shop. Otherwise you risk making mistakes that can permanently damage your engine. It is possible to modify a Toyota Corolla with a turbo kit. However, unless you are an experienced mechanic or have done it successfully before, you will have to do it in the workshop. Otherwise you risk making mistakes that can permanently damage your engine.

A Toyota Corolla turbo kit costs between $1,000 and $5,000 depending on what’s in the kit and who is installing it. Work with your mechanic to decide which kit is right for you. If you have the knowledge of the parts you need, you can also build the Toyota Corolla Turbo kit yourself to save money.

Are you thinking of modifying your car with a Toyota Corolla turbo kit? Don’t forget to inform your insurance company. Your premium may go up a bit, but in the event of an accident, your conversions are covered like the rest of your car.

The 2023 Toyota GR Corolla will likely be one of the most anticipated vehicles to be unveiled this year. Thanks to all-wheel drive and a 300 hp 3-cylinder turbo engine, it is significantly more powerful than the average front-wheel drive Corolla hatchback. Here’s everything you need to know about the latest entrant.

The Toyota Corolla has been the best-selling car in the world for quite some time, largely because it’s inexpensive and economical. However, since its original production in 1966, Toyota has experimented with a few high-performance car versions. While these performance-oriented variants of the Corolla only saw limited production runs, the company has made a bold move with the latest iteration of the vehicle.

The all-new Toyota GR Corolla, recently announced, is the company’s most powerful Corolla yet, featuring all-wheel drive and a whopping 300hp engine. Although the engine is a supercharged 3-cylinder, the new GR Corolla should be more powerful than the standard hatchback.

How is the GR Corolla different from the Corolla Apex?

Toyota currently offers a variation on the standard Corolla, the Apex. Although the Apex has stiffer suspension and an optional manual transmission, it shares the same engine as the standard hatchback. On the other hand, the GR Toyota Corolla has a much more powerful engine that makes it a very different car.

In addition, the GR is only available with a 6-speed manual gearbox. There is no automatic transmission option on the new GR.

Why the name “GR”?

Toyota seems to have chosen the initials GR at random, but the truth is much more interesting. GR in GR Toyota Corolla stands for Gazoo Racing, Toyota’s official racing team, so you know they mean business with this team. According to the reports, Toyota’s President Akio Toyoda, a keen racing driver, was personally involved in the development of the new GR.

Design and features of the Toyota GR Corolla

One of the most interesting features of the car is variable all-wheel drive. The system allows the driver to choose how much power is sent to the rear and front wheels. According to the company, the front wheels can receive up to 60% of their total capacity and the rear wheels a maximum of 70% of their power. The ability to direct power to a specific wheelset allows for better control and makes the car much safer, especially for newer drivers.

Another attempt to improve handling is evident in the fenders, which protrude from the body and give the car a wider stance. The roof is made entirely of high-quality carbon fiber and helps reduce the weight of the GR Corolla. The vehicle also has a fairly low center of gravity as it is ground heavy, which helps improve the car’s handling.

The doors and hood are made of aluminum, further reducing weight. Aerodynamically designed front fenders allow air to flow through the body of the car, significantly reducing drag. Also, the car has three exhaust pipes in the back which give it a unique look.

Performance and Competition of the GR Corolla Hatchback

There’s quite a bit of competition for the Toyota Corolla in the performance sedan market. The most popular cars in this segment include the Volkswagen Golf R and the Honda Civic R. The compact performance sedan has its roots in rallying. Traction and agility are very important as the rally racer has to drive on twisty dirt roads.

The company paid special attention to the design of the car to improve the Toyota hatchback’s performance and handling in a rally racing environment. According to the company, the variable four-wheel drive system was developed by GR as a rally racer.

Although not much is known about the pricing of the new Toyota Corolla, it will come in two variants. The basic version is called “Core” and the full version “Circuit Edition”. Production is slated to begin later this year at Japan’s dedicated GR manufacturing facility.

It should be interesting to see how the GR Toyota Corolla performs in real-world conditions and if it can be a viable option in the power sedan market.

I will continue to edit this as soon as I have time.

After answering many of the same questions many times, I decided to create a thread that lays out the basics. This gives people a good starting point to set out on their journey to find more information and ask more informed questions.

As always, the “use the search button” suggestion still rings true. There is a lot of good information out there and the more you find the more knowledgeable you will be. It helps a lot to get different people’s perspective, and sometimes one person’s explanation can help you understand something better than another. There is also a lot of bad information out there as well as outdated information that was the best we had at the time but is no longer relevant or maybe even accurate. Use your best judgment out there to decide which is which. If you ever question any information or want to know more about it, then ask.

It is also very beneficial to publish and draft a game plan before acting. The prior research gives you a great deal of information and keeps cranky old farts (even if they’re just metaphorically old) from having to answer the same old questions over and over again. Setting out your game plan before you act may allow us to identify misinformation or outdated beliefs or concepts. This will help you achieve your goal with the most power, fun, happiness, and success with the least amount of money, frustration, and failure.

The best places I know to find information on promoting the 4AGE is

www.mr2oc.com

www.club4ag.com

www.mr2.com

I am active on all of these forums under the name yoshimitsuspeed and try to help answer questions as much as possible. I used to be the most popular site on MR2OC.com until it was bought by Autoguide and became a corporate site with profits as the main driving force. I’m partially on the MR2.com forums now.

There are also some good books on general turbo theory and implementation.

The one I know personally is Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. It was written a long time ago and also contains some outdated information, but it’s still a good introduction to the topic. I know there are other very good ones out there, but I have no personal experience with them. I will add more as other people recommend them.

One of the most common questions is how much boost a 4AGE stock can take, or how much boost this or that setup can take.

This is an impossible question to answer, and more importantly, it is not the important question to ask. Boost doesn’t make horsepower, boost is the air that doesn’t make it into the engine. The mass of air moving through the engine and the efficiency with which the engine moves that air through it, along with fundamentals like fuel and timing, ultimately makes power. How much boost an engine can take depends on so many variables that it can’t even come close to being answered unless some of the variables are filled in with meth-injected race gas and perfect tuning. You might as well blow it up at 6 PSI if you got it wrong.

measuring devices and sensors

Different gauges have different importance levels for different builds.

Broadband AFR indicator

In my opinion, this is essential for any build beyond light mods. NA or Turbo If you are significantly affecting the amount of air flowing through your engine, you should be able to monitor the ratio of fuel flowing through the engine.

We have a range of gauges available. What is on our site is only a fraction of what we could get as it would take a ridiculous amount of time to add all the gauges we can get from Autometer, AEM, Defi, Innovate and others. If you don’t see it on our website, contact us. We can probably get it.

http://matrixgarage.com/store/wideband-gauges

knock monitoring

This is the second most important meter for voting. If you’re running a low comp GZE longblock at 10 PSI with conservative timing, that might not be a very important benchmark. If you’re doing a turbo build on a stock NA 4AGE, this is a pretty important indicator. For one, the NA control unit does not have a knock sensor. So if a detonation occurs, the controller can’t do anything about it. Second, run boost on higher compression pistons, which are relatively weak. While the NA pistons are known to need some lift, they are not at all forgiving when it comes to knocking.

Running Boost on an NA Smallport, Silvertop or Blacktop with stock internals and a knock sensor is all the more important due to the very high compression they run. I wouldn’t consider these very good beginner builds as you have very little margin for error before something pops. However, with the right attention to detail, they can all be enhanced.

I’ll call it a gauge for convenience, but there’s a range of options, from DIY detcans in the $20-$50 range to knock lights in the $150-$250 range, such as pull timing, relocate to protect your engine. Finding the right balance between cost and security is your choice. There are also professional detcans like the Haltech Knock Ears. Detcans are known as one of the best knock monitoring systems but the J&S has a headphone jack and for the price it’s the easy pick for me.

On a Largeport NA Turbo I would highly recommend this even for a 6-8 PSI build. I’d say it’s essential for anything beyond that.

For the smallport or 20-valve 4A-GE, I’d say some sort of knock monitor is essential before throwing positive air pressure at them.

It may seem expensive now, but compare the cost to blowing up an engine and these components seem very cheap.

Last is a pyrometer or EGT (Exhaust Gas Temp) gauge. . Again, if you’re doing a GZE long block with low boost and a conservative tuning, this isn’t a very important benchmark. The more you plan to push your tune, the more important it becomes.

A pyrometer is most important on the high compression builds as lagging the timing will result in higher EGTs. Higher EGTs will melt pistons and valves. On a high compression setup you may need to retard the valve timing to keep the engine from knocking. As you do this, you’ll need to monitor your EGTs to make sure you don’t start melting things.

On a NA Largeport at around 6 PSI, I’d say that’s not a particularly important gauge. As long as you’re able to maintain stock timing and good AFRs, your EGTs are probably fine. If you want to keep pushing the NA pistons and/or the ECU this becomes more and more important.

On a turbo SP or 20 volt build I would find this crucial for any boost.

Well these are just suggestions and many people have run aggressive builds without them. Some successful, some less. The question you want to ask yourself is whether you’d rather risk it and have a much greater potential for serious and expensive engine damage, or would you rather play it safe and spend a few hundred bucks on monitoring equipment to increase your chances of getting one great success greatly reducing damage.

Next, let’s talk internals.

People will often ask what do I need to do X-Power or drive X-Boost.

The first answer, and the only one that’s easy to answer, is a good tune.

So I’ll start with one of my favorite 4A-GTE quotes by John Welch from http://www.wcengineering.com/. John has a long history of boosting 4A-GEs and getting very impressive performance numbers from them.

“I’ve ridden a bone stock 3-rib block with about 60,000 miles on it (bone stock, 9.4:1 compression, oil pump, stem, stem, stem!!! like it’s removed from a 1986 MR-2 that’s in a front end found wreck, not opened, no seals replaced, no rings replaced, NOTHING REPLACED ! STOCK ! ) Engine ran great. 4th place in my race with about 30 cars in my class.

When I installed the engine (late April 1994) I was running a fully built 8.0:1 engine. I adjusted the timing a few degrees and lowered the boost to 15psi. I needed it for ONE race and that was all I expected from it, it kept going, every race after that I expected last… and it kept going. Please do not ask for a horsepower number as this engine has never been on a dyno.

After pulling it out I gave it to a friend who was local oval racing in a Corolla and drove it N/A. He raced it for four seasons before an oil-related retirement.

So the question was:

“How much boost and horsepower can a 3 rib block hold?”

Answers:

It all depends on your budget and tuning.”

The three rib block is the weakest 4A block. It has the weakest crank, some of the smallest rods and weak pistons.

That’s not to say that everyone should try to do this, it just emphasizes the importance of a good tune and what you can do with it. People have been blowing up much more robust builds with a lot less boost.

Since they are the weakest link of all NA 4AGEs, let’s start with the pistons.

As can be seen above, the NA pistons can take a decent amount of boost when properly tuned.

If someone is looking to get into boost on a budget and has a healthy engine, I often recommend starting with the NA pistons. I will also recommend starting with a low boost and building up as you gain knowledge and skill. You can decide to play it safe, or you can decide to see what it takes before something lets go. With the right mindset and monitoring, you’d probably be quite surprised at how much it will last.

If you’re already getting into the engine to rebuild it or build it from scratch, you should just start with good pistons. The OEM 4AGZE pistons have proven to be a good choice. People have exercised a lot of power over them. The downside is that the large port GZE pistons have a compression ratio of 8.1:1. Even for a very low boost by today’s standards.

I’m a fan of high compression. The more compression you run, the more power per lb of boost you get. It also improves off-boost performance, coil and gas mileage. It also means the turbo doesn’t have to work as hard and in some situations it allows you to run a smaller, faster spooling turbo.

For 200-250 WHP onpump throttle I’d like to see in the 9.5:1-10.5:1 range depending on cam, tuning and how comfortable you are pushing the limits.

At 250-300 hp I would probably get down to 9.5:1 to 10:1. At this point, cams become much more important and larger cams allow you to run a slightly higher static compression ratio. To say 300 hp, a person might opt ​​for 9.5:1 compression and standard cameras with 30 PSI Boost. Another person might choose to do it with 12:1 compression, 296 cams and 7 PSI Boost. I personally don’t think the former is a good way. Most will likely choose something between these two extremes.

When it comes to aftermarket pistons we have quite a few available. The CP 9:1 pistons aren’t bad for low compression setups. They could be brought a little higher with the head shaving.

CP 9:1 16 valve 4A-GE

CP 9:1 20 valve 4A-GE

For the past six months we have worked very closely with Arias on their 16 valve pistons and I believe they are now by far the best design available off the shelf. We can also make custom pistons using everything we’ve learned designing these pistons.

The best part is that these pistons come at a great price too.

For a boost build you would most likely go for the 9.5:1 pistons or the 10.5:1 pistons. You can then shave the head to achieve the desired compression ratio.

One thing to pay special attention to is the squish gap, which is the distance from the piston to the squish band on the head. The closer you can get this to around 0.6-0.8mm, the better off you’ll be. Therefore, you should not use thicker head gaskets to reduce compression. Choose your plunger to get as close to your goal as possible. Shave the head a little if you want a little higher. Then select your head gasket thickness to set the desired squish gap.

The rest of the 4AGE is notoriously rugged. The original 3-rib version is the lightest of the generations, including a smaller, lighter crank and smaller bars. This engine still rarely sees unexplained failures, even when pushed well beyond its original design criteria. However, it should be noted that the early cranks and rods will not work with later pistons, including GZE pistons and the aftermarket pistons mentioned above. You might as well get a 7 rib short block or long block as the block is also stronger. If you can find a 4AGZE shortblock or longblock at a decent price, this can be a great route. If you can only find a 7 rib NA block, remember that the only difference between the 4AGE and 4AGZE are the pistons. There are a few ancillary differences. For example, most NA blocks don’t have the bung for the knock sensor drilled. However, they all have the bung. So if you need a knock sensor, you can drill and knock it yourself. Just be careful not to drill through the block.

The only other motor that has small bars is the 20v Blacktop. Many people will tell you not to operate these rods in a supercharged engine. They will tell you this because the rods look small and people assume the push is hard on the rods.

Normal amounts of boost are not harsh on rods. As explained in Maximum Boost, the most stressful time in the life of a piston rod under tension is on the exhaust stroke, when the piston is stalled at the top of the cylinder and snapped back in the other direction by the piston rod. This force is so great that the air and fuel in the cylinder actually acts as a cushion on the compression stroke, reducing tension on the rod. The only time this may not be true is during detonation or pre-ignition where cylinder pressure builds up too early. So the strength requirements for the bar are more dependent on how fast you want to spin the motor. If you want to rev over 8500 then you might want to consider replacing your blacktop bars with something better. Above 9000 it would be good to go with a quality forged rod.

Crank ladders help strengthen the main caps. Tomei crank cabin ladders are an option. We decided we could make a design that was at least as good and cheaper, so we did it. Ours have rounded all corners to eliminate voltage spikes that could cause failure.

http://www.matrixgarage.com/products/matrix-garage-crank-ladders

We have rod options from fairly affordable like the Crower Sportsman rods to medium rods like the Crower BC625+ rods and the Tomei rods to the Carrillo rods used in Formula Atlantic.

Next we will talk about engine management. The path you choose will likely be influenced by where you start and where you go.

You can charge almost any ECU a little. How much depends on many things.

Before you even order turbo components, you should have a broadband ready to install. It would be good to have it installed a while before the boost so you can get used to how the car behaves in stock guise.

Same goes if you upgrade from GZE to GTE or even throw to a larger SC pulley.

NA 4AGE ECU

The NA 4AGE can generate a few pounds of boost with minimal adjustments. The AFM and FPR add fuel to compensate for the added air. Once you get above 5-6 PSI, those components alone don’t have the ability to compensate enough. At this point, you need to decide if you want to start throwing time and money at the ECU, or if you should just step up to something better. Both have their advantages. As you move up to something better, don’t waste time and money on something you’ll replace later. On the other hand, starting with the stock ECU gives you time to become familiar with AFRs and basic tuning principles before having to learn to tune aftermarket engine management. If you have someone else tune for you, none of this is irrelevant.

The 16V NA ECU has been upgraded to 8 PSI on numerous occasions with minimal fueling changes. In addition to your broadband, you’ll either have to play with different sized fuel injectors or an adjustable FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). One of these coupled with AFM tweaks should get you in the 8 PSI range fairly easily. That doesn’t sound like much, but you’re seeing a performance increase of around 50% and in lightweight small cars like the AE86 and AW11 it makes a significant difference. Many people would be very happy here. Even better than an adjustable FPR is an FMU. These units increase fuel at a much higher rate as boost pressure increases.

A knock monitor is highly recommended at this point, especially since the NA control unit has no knock monitor. A J&S protection would be even better, but the only downside is that there are some full blown engine management systems for a similar price. However, many engine management systems do not have such advanced knock monitoring and prevention systems as the J&S.

I have set 8 PSI as the practical limit for the NA Largeport 4AGE ECU. It has been done and documented by others and was intended to be relatively cheap and easy. I’m confident you could get a lot more boost with a combination of injectors, FMU, AFPR and possibly some other stuff, but at this point you’ve spent as much time and money as many engine management options that will give you a lot more control.

Large port 4AGZE ECU.

Many people think that this is a logical step in the evolution. Why not just install a GZE ECU and sensors or why not just buy a GZE Longblock with ECU and wiring.

The US GZE ECU, as well as some other design markets’ AFM ECUs, have a major handicap called low-end leanout. Below 3500 rpm the AFM signal is clipped. This means that if the engine takes in more air than below 3500 rpm, the engine will lean because the ECU does not recognize the increase in airflow. You can add a Gruntbox that uses the cold start injector to add more fuel and counteract the lean on the bottom end. For people who already have the GZE ECU in their car and want a moderate boost this may be an acceptable solution, but if you don’t already have it in the car then the time and money to buy the ECU and to install, sensors, and Gruntbox will exceed the cost of some of the cheaper engine management solutions like Megasquirt.

If you start with a 4AGZE and want to upgrade it, all you need to worry about is the turbo kit until you reach the GZE boost levels. If you want to run beyond 8 PSI, you’ll need to decide whether buying a Gruntbox and going with what you have is the best route, or whether you should upgrade to something with more control.

Smallport 4AGZE ECU

I have no personal experience with this controller.

I’ve heard that there is a drop in power at around 5500 rpm. One theory I’ve heard is that it responds to an incorrect tap and pulls the timing. You will also be limited to how much boost you can ride before maxing out the MAP sensor. As with the LP ECU, I wouldn’t go very far to install this ECU. If you’re trading in a full SP GZE and just hoping for near-stock performance levels, this might be your best bet. If you’re looking a lot beyond that, I’d at least consider the other options before hooking them up.

Next are the map-based ECUs, including the smallport ECU and the silvertop and blacktop ECUs. I’m not familiar with running Boost on any of these devices. I’m confident that each of them could add a little boost, but combined with the high compression of the engines they come with and the aggressive timing maps to make them sporty, I’m confident there is one careful and patient person to see what could be done with these setups without injuring the engine. If you haven’t already wired the ECU to the car, it would probably be a better choice to just wire the aftermarket engine management from the start.

If you have a GZE control unit and wiring in the car, you can run a BT or ST with a GZE control unit and GZE electronics.

This is actually a pretty good combo as the GZE ECU can only handle about 8-9 PSI before leaning out and that pushes a 20 volt stock pretty hard. I’ve now run a stock internal Blacktop on a GZE controller with 7 PSI Boost for 10,000-15,000 miles. With this setup I would consider broadband, knock monitor and pyrometer mandatory. Even with the GZE ECU in the car, this may or may not be a good way to go. If you don’t already have a GZE controller I would say it’s definitely not worth the time or money to go down this route.

We have a range of affordable engine management options that work great for many builds.

First I’m going to talk about piggybacks. This can be an affordable and acceptable solution for some.

There are two main types of piggyback. There are those who modify the signals that go into the ECU. These intercept the signal from things like TPS, MAP, AFM and the like, for example, and then modify the signal that goes to the ECU. These piggybacks should be avoided as they have many handicaps. They are also useless for the low-end leaning that the 4A-GZE has and can also change ignition timing in unpredictable ways.

The other type intercepts the signal coming from the ECU and going to the injectors and ignition. This gives you much more precise control over fuel and ignition, and allows you to compensate for things like lean low-end.

We carry the AEM F/IC. If you want to go piggyback, this is for you. We can also get a Tweaked Performance plug and play adapter harness so you can hook up the F/IC to the factory harness and ECU and get started.

http://matrixgarage.com/store/engine-management-tuning-tools

The DIYPNP is more for those familiar with a soldering iron and circuit boards. This kit is not particularly challenging but can be daunting for those with very little experience. However, if you decide to make the jump, there’s plenty of documentation and support out there.

The Megasquirt PNP is more expensive, but comes fully assembled and is literally ready to plug and play. You can get it with basemaps, which should get you close, but this still requires fine-tuning once it’s hooked up.

AEM EMS4 is another affordable option. It includes all the features most 4 cylinder tuners require. It also comes with top-notch software and support. We can also get a Tweaked Performance plug and play wiring harness that allows you to connect this EMS directly to the stock wiring harness.

We can also get LINK ECUs which are great value for money and we get great prices for them. Email us for a quote.

Selection of the turbo and the surrounding components

This decision depends on many personal factors. You need to balance price, availability, long-term availability, compatible components, and your goals.

You might be thrilled that you found a great deal locally on a weird turbo, but if you base your system around it you’ll be able to find a header and downpipe to match, or a replacement, if it fails? Will you be able to upgrade to a larger turbo when it no longer meets your goals, or downgrade to a smaller turbo when you find it’s too big and sluggish?

One concern is product compatibility.

It’s wise to see what distributors are available before delving too deeply into turbos, as this will likely affect your options.

Our Regal turbo manifold is available with DSM/MHI flange and T25/T28 flange. These are both great options as they have a range of size and price options. We also offer a downpipe for these turbos.

We also have a Subaru TD04 13T in the shop which would allow us to make an off the shelf mani and downpipe manifold for a similar price.

We will be making custom manifolds for other turbos but will need the turbo to ensure it is positioned correctly. The cost depends on many things like the availability of flanges and the difficulty of manufacturing.

Before I made the made-to-order mani I’m selling now, there were very few options, especially for the landscape layout. Unless someone could custom make something themselves, they would be limited to running a turbo that matched one of the few headers available.

The final question is how much money do you want to spend and how leading do you want to be?

Used turbos can save you a lot of money and for most of us they fit our goals well. From now on I will refer to these as JYD or junkyard dogs.

Buying a used turbo always involves risks. You could put it in and get 100,000 miles out of it, or you could blow out the bearings the first time you step on them. Careful purchase, and preferably careful first-hand inspection, can greatly increase your chances. There are many websites, pages and threads for inspecting a turbo so I won’t go into them here. Another option is to rebuild the turbo yourself or have it rebuilt. We have a turbo remanufacturer and can also source rebuild kits for those who wish to do it themselves.

The other option is to buy something nice and new off the shelf. This is very nice because the Turbo is brand new and you can be sure that it will last you a long time without any problems. Unfortunately, many new turbos cost more than the cars we intend to put them in. That can be a big pill to swallow.

If you decide to buy a new turbo, we can guide you in the right direction.

There are also radial bearing turbos and ball bearing turbos. BB turbos are generally more expensive. They spin more freely and last longer with proper treatment, but if there’s a problem you generally have to replace the entire bearing cartridge, which isn’t cheap. For most of us, these turbos may not benefit enough to be worth the extra cost. This is especially true for people looking to get a moderate boost on a budget. The BB turbo can shave milliseconds off spool time, and the bigger the turbo and the longer the spool, the more impact it has. For anyone looking for less than 180hp/litre and a turbo that can do that, I don’t think a BB turbo is worth the extra cost unless you are serious about driving or in other situations, where milliseconds actually matter.

Garrett makes many good turbos ranging from under 100 horsepower to over 2000 horsepower. They are there and know their stuff when it comes to making good, solid, reliable turbos, so we decided to focus on continuing their lineage.

We currently only have a few turbos on our site but can get anything they make.

http://matrixgarage.com/store/turbos-flanges-and-other-turbo-related-com…

Wir können auch eine Reihe anderer Turbos erhalten, darunter Turbonetics, HKS und andere.

Wenn Sie sich für einen gebrauchten Turbo entscheiden, welchen wählen Sie?

Natürlich möchten Sie eine, die Ihren aktuellen Bedürfnissen und Zielen entspricht. Wenn Sie genau wissen, wie Ihr Auto am Ende aussehen soll, kann das ausreichen. Wenn Sie glauben, dass Sie irgendwann wachsen möchten, sollten Sie eine Reihe von Turbos finden, die dieselben Flansche verwenden, sodass Sie nicht viel ändern müssen, wenn Sie einen größeren oder kleineren Turbo erhalten. Der wichtigste Teil sind die turbinenseitigen Flansche für Ihren Krümmer und Ihr Fallrohr. Sie haben gutes Geld für diese Teile ausgegeben und das Letzte, was Sie wollen, ist, Ihr System neu zu gestalten und andere Teile zu kaufen oder die vorhandenen zu modifizieren.

Da im Folgenden viel über MHI-Turbos gesprochen wird, werde ich kurz auf ihre Größe und Bewertung eingehen. Es gibt eine Bezeichnung, die mit TD beginnt, dh TD04, TD05, TD06. Dieser gibt Aufschluss über die Größe des Turbinenrads. Eine größere Zahl bezieht sich auf ein größeres Rad.

Als nächstes sehen Sie so etwas wie 13T, 14B usw. Dies sagt Ihnen die Größe des Kompressorrads.

Das Letzte, worüber Sie reden hören, ist x cm Turbinengehäuse. Dies ist dasselbe wie das A/R bei anderen Turbos. Anstelle eines Verhältnisses von Fläche zu Radius beziehen sich die Mitsu-Turbos nur auf den Bereich, in dem die Schriftrolle beginnt. Eine größere Zahl bedeutet eine größere Oberfläche, die einem größeren A/R entspricht.

Es gibt viel mehr Informationen zu diesen Turbos, die leicht verfügbar sind. Einer der besten Ausgangspunkte ist hier.

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Mitsubishi Turbos waren schon immer mein Favorit. Erstens, weil ich zuerst in der DSM-Szene auf aufgeladene Autos gekommen bin und zweitens, weil die Turbos sehr gute Einheiten sind, die die oben genannten Anforderungen erfüllen. Es gibt einige Turbos, die alle die gleichen Flansche haben.

Diese reichen von einigen kleineren TD04, wie sie beim 3000GT zu finden sind, bis hin zu einigen TD06, die zu ziemlich großen Stückzahlen fähig sind. Es gibt auch ziemlich viele Mix-and-Match-Optionen, die leicht verfügbar sind, was bedeutet, dass Sie relativ einfach mit Ihren eigenen Kombinationen spielen können. Ein Nachteil der geflanschten DSMMHI-Turbos ist, dass die meisten oder die kleineren Optionen älter und schwerer zu finden sind. Turbos der ersten und zweiten Generation von Eclipse, 3000GT und frühen Evos sind allesamt großartige Turbos, kommen aber auch von Autos, die älter als 18 Jahre sind. Dies bedeutet, dass sie schwerer zu finden sein werden und im Allgemeinen mit längerer Zeit auch mehr Verschleiß auftritt. Sie sind definitiv nicht mehr so ​​zahlreich wie vor 10 Jahren.

Leider kehrte der Evo 4 die Richtung des Turbos um und wurde Twin-Scroll. Das bedeutet, dass sie mit keinem der älteren Turbos kompatibel sind. Sie sind auch nicht mit viel anderem kleineren oder größeren kompatibel. Der Evo 10 ging zurück auf die Standarddrehrichtung, hat aber immer noch den EVO-Twinscroll-Flansch.

Der DSM T25 ist eigentlich ein Garrett-Turbo, hat aber ein DSM / MHI-Auspuffgehäuse, so dass er mit demselben Mani und Downpipe verschraubt wird. Es ist ein großartiger Turbo für diejenigen, die eine schnelle Spule und weniger als 250 PS suchen. Sie opfern ein gutes Stück Top-End-Einschränkung für die schnelle Spule, aber es ist oft den Tausch wert. Es ist auch der häufigste Turbo, den ich auf 4As gesehen habe.

Subaru-Turbos sind mir kürzlich aufgefallen, weil Subies so zahlreich sind und ich erwarte, dass die Turbos noch einige Zeit da sein werden. Viele von ihnen sind auch MHI-Turbos, die ich sehr mag. Leider verwenden sie eine andere Turbinenseite. Ich mag das Flanschdesign der Subie-Turbos viel weniger, insbesondere die Tatsache, dass sie nur ein Drei-Schrauben-Flansch zum Mani sind. Trotzdem sind die Subie TD04s ziemlich verbreitet, ziemlich billig und eine ziemlich anständige Option für alle, die weniger als 250 PS suchen. Sie sind immer noch ein TD04, was bedeutet, wenn Sie ein gesundes TD04 DSM-Turbinengehäuse finden, können Sie es auf einen Subie TD04 setzen und es auf einem DSM-Flanschmani betreiben. Es gibt bei weitem nicht die OEM-Variationen, die die geflanschten MHI-Turbos haben, aber es sollte einen ordentlichen Strom gebrauchter After-Market-Turbos aus der Subaru-Community geben, was bedeutet, dass Sie wahrscheinlich einige interessante Optionen finden könnten. Wenn Sie ein TD05- oder TD06-Gehäuse mit Subie-Flansch finden, bedeutet dies auch, dass Sie viele der anderen MHI-Turbos betreiben können.

Eine weitere nette Option sind die Garrett T25/T28 Flanschturbos. Diese Turbos sind in einer Reihe von Autos zu finden und immer noch ziemlich zahlreich und billig. Sie sind bei einer Reihe von Nissans wie dem 300 ZX und SR20 zu finden. Einige sind kleiner und gut für vielleicht 250 PS. Einige können Sie in die 300er bringen.

Ein weiterer sehr verbreiteter Flanschtyp ist der T3/T4.

Ich bin mit diesen Turbos, ihren Optionen, ihrer Leistung oder ihren OEM-Anwendungen völlig unbekannt.

Es gibt viele Informationen zu diesen Turbos online.

Ich werde auch alle Informationen hinzufügen, die jemand anderes über diese Turbos oder andere gute Optionen hat, die ich übersehen habe.

Neben dem Krümmer und dem Fallrohr ist eine der größten Hürden für den durchschnittlichen Heimwerker der Ölablauf in die Pfanne. If you are asking yourself if you can just use the oil cooler drain already in the pan trust me that you cannot. The diameter is too small and it will cause the oil to back up in the drain and flood the turbo. It is also on the low side. You want the drain as high as possible and definitely above the standing oil level. ½” is the absolute smallest line you will want to use. I highly recommend ¾” or 12 AN. This gives the oil a large passage and more area to flow through.

Most lines you find online are 1/2”. They will also require you to fabricate the bung in the pan.

I offer the service of modifying your pan with a 12 AN bung and building a steel braided 12 AN line to perfectly fit your turbo.

http://matrixgarage.com/products/4age-turbo-oil-drain-and-pan-modification

With the right measurements we can also build you an oil drain that will mate to your pan if you can modify it yourself.

We can get AN bungs and any other fabrication supplies you may need.

A couple other notes.

There needs to be a substantial drop on the oil drain line. The drain side is not pressurized and needs to flow freely into the pan. Oil that has passed through the turbo also becomes very frothy and won’t drain as easily. Any transverse manifold for the 4A puts the turbo very low. You have to make sure there is enough angle on the drain line. This also means there isn’t enough room for an adapter plate to run a different turbo on a different flange.

The reason you need such a big line and steep angle from the turbo is because turbos are designed to have oil lightly splash over the bearings and quickly drain. If any oil starts to build up in the CHRA it will start to leak past the seals and into the intake or exhaust. This will cause the car to smoke and won’t take long to damage the seals. The oil drain line also needs to sit as high as possible on the oil pan. If it’s submerged in oil it can back up the line.

Oil feed line. I can make an oil feed line for just about any application. I haven’t found it to be worth advertising it much since there are so many large scale production feed lines out there much cheaper than I could offer them. Be wary though. Remember that this is one place where you don’t want to cheap out or half ass things. Almost all AW11 turbo fires are related to oil dripping on the exhaust manifold. This is something you do not want to happen to you. The oil going into the turbo is under high pressure and sits right next to the header which can get extremely hot. On that note route the oil line as far away from the header as possible and don’t be afraid to use some heat shielding if you are at all concerned.

Piping turbo to intake.

You want to use metal for your piping. I highly suggest something that cannot oxidize and flake material into the intake. For this reason I never use mild steel intake side. Stainless steel and aluminum works great and aluminum will generally be the cheaper, lighter and easier of the two.

I prefer not to cheap out on parts or materials but there are times I just can’t justify the added expense. I have fabricated with, welded and run piping from Burns stainless as well as CX racing and no name ebay brands. The cheaper CX racing and no name piping welds just as well works just as well and usually comes with a nicer finish. I love to shop local, buy USA etc but this is one place where I buy the cheaper stuff. Since the no names are no names I can’t speak for them in general but I have been happy with all piping I have gotten from Cxracing and ebay. I can now get kit’s and individual pipes from CX racing.

One thing to remember is pre compressor the air is moving faster but after the compressor it is moving at about the same speed as when the motor was NA it’s just much more dense. For that reason post compressor you don’t need bigger piping when you run more boost.

One of the most important things though is having as few diameter changes as possible. For this reason 2.5” works pretty well for most 4A builds. There are a lot of piping kits available in that size, it’s pretty close to but slightly larger than the diameter of the AFM and there are many intercooler options in 2.5” inlet and outlet.

If you use a JYD intercooler with smaller then you may be better off trying to match piping closer to that. I would never recommend going smaller than your AFM or throttlebody diameter.

Water lines

Not all turbos are water cooled but these days most are.

For the 16 valves it’s easy to route the coolant line running to the throttlebody to the turbo. Make sure the water flows to the TB first and then to the turbo. The TB uses the coolant temp to control the idle speed. If you route the coolant from the turbo to the TB it will mess with your idle due to it changing the temp of the coolant.

20 valves don’t have coolant running to the TB. On mine I teed into the heater line inlet and outlet. I don’t have any proof on how well this flows but I do have about 15k miles on the used T25 I threw on this setup and it’s still doing great.

Intercooler selection

This is another huge variable in the build. You can spend anywhere from nothing to thousands of dollars on your intercooling.

I would recommend running IC on any turbo build. If you want to run low boost this could be a cheap used OEM intercooler found at the junk yard or on ebay. If you want to run moderate to high boost I would put a little more thought into your system. Hot air is one of the greatest enemies of a boosted system. One of the hardest parts on MR cars is getting airflow. Front engine cars can do great by just sticking a big A2A IC in front of their radiator. To do that on a MR car would require 30 feet of piping.

There are some other options. Some have done roof mount ICs and or roof scoops to route the air into the IC. This does however increase the frontal area of the car and add drag. It also makes it pretty apparent that your car has been modified. This may be very undesirable in some areas or for some people. Others have moved their exhaust and put the IC under the trunk. This has it’s own pros and cons. To actually get good flow you have to cut up your trunk and somewhere for the air to flow out of the trunk, it’s still likely to see some heat from the exhaust. It’s also very susceptible road debris and other things that could damage it. Many have gone water to air and then run the heat exchanger to the front of the car or in my case to each side of the car. This adds cost and complexity but is a very good way to get the efficiency of your IC as close as possible to that of front engine cars.

What intercooler you choose will have to be a balance of cost, effectiveness, space requirments and simplicity. If you are looking for a decent amount of power this isn’t somewhere you want to cheap out. We are happy to assist you in choosing the best intercooler for your build.

Choosing a turbo that’s right for you.

I’m not going to get into the details of all the variables that effect the performance of a turbo. There are entire websites, books, and forums devoted to that. I also respect that it can all be pretty overwhelming at first. Doing the research and finding those websites, books, threads and forums will help you out greatly. I also understand how it can be overwhelming trying to learn everything like compressor and turbine maps and what everything means.

I will recommend a couple websites that will help you fake it till you make it.

This will plot out your inputs on various turbo maps. One thing to beware of is that all those inputs have a huge effect on the result so the more you learn and understand the more accurate the calculator will become. It is still just a reference. It also only has compressor maps. It does not address the turbine map but few things do. It’s rarely even possible to get a true turbine map.One of the best things you can do at that point is research the turbo on educated sites and find out what it has been proven capable of.

At that point start asking questions of your own.

http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/

This page will help you calculate intake temps.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

And this page helps understand why and also how it pertains to the compressor map.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-adiabat1.htm

There is also a ton of other good information on that forum.

Garrett also has their own boost advisor. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/boostadviser

If you want any input or help choosing your turbo we are happy to help.

The 5A engine family was on the Toyota conveyor from 1987 to 1999 and was actually a reduced volume variation of the 4A and the successor to the 3A engines. After the 99th, the 5A-FE modification was inherited by Chinese automakers, who continue to replicate it to this day. There were three modifications in the lineup – 5A-F, 5A-FE and 5A-FHE. They all had the same cylinder block (1498 cm³), cylinder-piston group (bore 78.7 mm, stroke 77 mm), cylinder head with 22.3° inlet and outlet manifold and DOHC 16V. The differences were mainly in the supply and intake systems, which is due to the different performance indicators.

specifications

Manufacturer Kamigo Plant

Shimoyama plant

Engine Works Deeside

Plant North

Tianjin FAW Toyota Engine’s Plant No. 1 Also called Toyota 5A Years of production 1987-… Cylinder block Alloy Cast iron Fuel system Carburettor/injector configuration Inline Number of cylinders 4 Valves per cylinder 4 Piston stroke, mm 77 Cylinder bore, mm 78.7 Compression ratio 9.8 Displacement, cc 1498 Power, hp 85/6000

100/5600

105/6000

120/6000 torque output, Nm/rpm 122/3600

138/4400

131/4800

132/4800 Euronorm — weight, kg — fuel consumption, L/100 km

– City

– Freeway

— combined 6.8

4.0

5.0 Oil consumption, gr/1000 km to 1000 Recommended engine oil 5W-30 / 10W-30 / 15W-40 / 20W-50 Engine oil capacity, liters 3.5 Oil change interval, km 10000

(better 5000) Normal engine operating temperature, °C – Engine life, km

— official information

– real –

300+

Common problems

Gasoline burnout. The problem can be solved by replacing the lambda probe. If there is soot on the candles, black exhaust and vibration at idle, you need to check the absolute pressure detector. Excessive fuel consumption with vibration. The nozzles need to be flushed. The revolutions are interrupted and freeze. Correct the idle valve and clean the throttle valve. You also need to adjust the sensor. The engine does not start, and there is also an instability of revolutions. Thermal sensor defective. interruption of sales. Throttle module, KXX, spark plugs, injectors and positive crankcase ventilation valve need to be cleaned. The engine suddenly stops. The reason is the fuel pump, distributor and filter. Rapid oil consumption (more than a liter per thousand km). It is necessary to replace the rings and valve stem seals. knocking of the engine. Piston pins are defective with high mileage. The valve clearance needs to be adjusted.

These and other problems arise due to the high mileage and durability of the 5A motor. Therefore, it is better to buy a copy, the resource of which does not exceed the base of 300,000 km.

block and crankshaft

Crankshaft Radius: 42.75mm;

Crankshaft pin diameter: 48.0 mm;

Counterweight outer diameter: 69.0 mm; and,

Arm Thickness: 16.75mm

cylinder head

suction and throttling

camshafts and valves

valve overlap of 8 degrees;

intake duration of 224 degrees; and,

Exhaust duration of 224 degrees.

The 1762 cc 7A-FE engine had a cast iron block with an 81.0 mm bore and 85.5 mm stroke. Compared to the 4A-FE, the deck height of the 7A-FE cylinder block has been increased by 15.4mm to accommodate the increased stroke. The 7A-FE engine had a knock sensor boss on the upper rear of the cylinder block. The 7A-FE engine had a vanadium steel crankshaft with the following specifications: To reduce vibration, the crankshaft pulley had torsional and longitudinal dampers. The 7A-FE engine had an aluminum alloy cylinder head mounted on a metallic head gasket that used two layers of stainless steel. The cylinder head used plastic area mounting bolts. For the 7A-FE engine, the intake manifold has been integrated into the intake air chamber. In addition, the length of the intake manifold and the diameter of the duct have been designed for increased torque at low to medium engine speeds. The 7A-FE engine had a conventional throttle body, with throttle opening being determined by the amount of accelerator pedal effort. The 7A-FE engine had dual overhead camshafts that used a belt and gear drive. The 7A-FE engine had four valves per cylinder, actuated by solid cup-type valve lifters. To adjust the valves in the 7A-FE engine, the camshaft had to be removed. According to the table below, the 7A-FE engine had:

automobile engine

The Toyota E engine family is a range of in-line four piston engines and uses timing belts instead of chains. The E-motors were Toyota’s first multi-valve engines designed for economy, practicality and everyday usability (rather than performance). Like many other Toyota engines from this period, the electric motor series features a cast iron block and an aluminum cylinder head. Electric motors are lighter than previous Toyota engines due to the hollow crankshaft, thinner cylinder block casting and several other reductions in the auxiliaries and engine itself. Carburetor versions include a redesigned variable venturi carburetor. All of these changes improved economy and emissions.[1] The members of the electric motor family range from 1.0 l to 1.5 l. The E family supplanted the K engines in most applications. Many parts of the electric motor series are interchangeable.

1E [ edit ]

The 1E is a 1.0 L SOHC 12-valve carbureted engine (999 cc). Bore and stroke are 70.5 mm × 64 mm (2.78 in × 2.52 in). The compression ratio is 9.0:1. It appeared in 1985. Power goes to around 55 hp (41 kW) at 6,000 rpm, while torque is 102 N⋅m (75 lb⋅ft) at 3,500 rpm.

Bore x Stroke: 70.5 mm × 64 mm (2.78 in × 2.52 in)

Displacement: 1.0L (999cc)

Valve Clearance: Inlet: 0.2 mm (0.01 in); Outlet: 0.2mm (0.01 inch)

Ignition timing (with vacuum advance off): 10 degrees BTDC

Oil capacity: 3.2 L (3.4 US qt)

transmission

applications

2E [ edit ]

Toyota 2E engine.

The 2E is a SOHC version with 1.3 L (1,295 cc) and three valves per cylinder. Power ranges from 65 to 88 hp (48 to 66 kW; 66 to 89 PS) at 6,000 rpm with torque ranging from 98 N⋅m (72 lb⋅ft) at 3600 rpm to 104 N⋅m (77 lb⋅ft) Torque at 5200 rpm. It appeared in 1985 and was discontinued after 1998. The 2E engines appeared in both carbureted and fuel-injected versions (dubbed 2E-E). Released in 1986, the 2E-TE is a 101 hp (75 kW; 102 hp) turbocharged engine. A later version, the 2E-TELU, produces 110 PS (82 kW; 112 hp).

Bore x stroke: 73 mm × 77.4 mm (2.87 in × 3.05 in)

Displacement: 1.3 l (1,295 cm³)

Compression Ratio: 9.5:1

Ignition timing (with vacuum advance off): 10 degrees BTDC

Ignition timing (according to Haynes databook): 5 degrees BTDC at 800 rpm

transmission

4-speed and 5-speed manual: C40, C150, C152 (turbo model)

Automatic transmission: A132

applications

3E [ edit ]

The 3E is a SOHC version with 1.5 L (1,456 cc) and three valves per cylinder. Power ranges from 79 to 88 hp (58 to 65 kW; 78 to 87 hp) at 6,000 rpm with torque ranging from 118 N⋅m (87 lb⋅ft) at 4,000 rpm to 121 N⋅m (89 lb⋅ft) Torque at 4,800 rpm. It appeared in 1986 and was discontinued after 1994. The 3E engines appeared in both carbureted (3E) and fuel injected (3E-E) applications. Released in 1986, the 3E-TE is a turbocharged engine producing 115 PS (85 kW; 113 hp) at 5,600 rpm and 17.5 kgm (172 N⋅m; 127 lb⋅ft) of torque at 3,200 rpm.

specifications

Bore x stroke 73 mm × 87 mm (2.87 in × 3.43 in)

Compression Ratio 9.3:1 (8.0:1 3E-TE)

applications

The 3E and 3E-E engines are considered slightly less reliable than other Toyota engines, although they are also among the easiest to service engines. The most common problems in these engines are premature failure of the valve stem seal (nitrile rubber), carbon deposits on the intake valves and collapse of the oil scraper ring on the piston. Each of these conditions can lead to rough idling, stalling and fouled spark plugs and must therefore be diagnosed in a differentiated manner. At least the valve stem seals can be replaced with silicone or viton based seals which last much longer.[4]

4E [ edit ]

The 4E is a 1.3 L (1,331 cc) DOHC version. Bore and stroke are 74 mm × 77.4 mm (2.91 in × 3.05 in). Power ranges from 74 PS (55 kW; 75 PS) at 6,400 rpm to 99 PS (74 kW; 100 PS) at 6,600 rpm with 110 N⋅m (81 lb⋅ft) of torque at 3,600 rpm up to 86 lb⋅ft (117 N⋅m) of torque at 4,000 rpm. It appeared in 1989 and was discontinued after 1998. The 4E engines appeared in fuel injected applications.

applications

First generation 4E-FE[ edit ]

The first generation of 4E engines in the Starlet GI, Soleil and Corolla models were produced from 1989 to 1996. The engine on these two models produces 88 hp (66 kW; 89 hp) at 6,600 rpm and 86 lb⋅ft (117 N⋅m) at 5,200 rpm. This engine has more in common with the 4E-FTE, sharing the same throttle body and slightly larger injectors.

specifications

Bore x stroke 74 mm × 77.4 mm (2.91 in × 3.05 in)

9.6:1 compression ratio

Second generation 4E-FE[ edit ]

The second generation 4E-FE was introduced in 1996 and produced less peak power: 75 PS (55 kW; 74 hp) at 5,500 rpm but with a slight increase in peak torque of 118 N⋅m (87 lb⋅ft) at 4,400 rpm. at least The second generation 4E-FE is essentially the same engine as the first, but the intake and exhaust manifolds have been modified along with a minor ECU change to reduce exhaust emissions.

specifications

Bore x Stroke 74.3 mm × 77.4 mm (2.93 in × 3.05 in)

9.6:1 compression ratio

Third generation 4E-FE[ edit ]

In 1997 the intake manifold was changed again along with the ECU and the result was 85 PS (63 kW; 84 PS) for the Corolla and 82 PS (60 kW; 81 PS) for the Starlet. This engine was discontinued in 1999.

The first generation of the 4E-FE was the 1989 base of the 4E-FTE, a turbocharged engine producing 135 hp (99 kW; 133 hp) at 6,400 rpm and 157 N⋅m (116 lb⋅ft) of torque at 4,800 rpm. The 4E-FTE is the most powerful E-Series engine ever produced. It was made exclusively for the Toyota Starlet GT Turbo (Japan only) and its successor, the Toyota Glanza V (Japan only). However, the 4E-FTE was a very popular rebuild engine by enthusiasts for many small Toyota cars such as the Corolla, Tercel, Paseo and Sera, into which it fitted with standard Toyota parts. The 4E-FTE differs internally from the 4E-FE with stronger connecting rods, lower compression pistons (reduced from 9.6:1 to 8.5:1) and a stronger crankshaft. The cylinder head is identical to the valve train with higher lift on the intake camshaft and stronger valve springs than the 4E-FE. The 4E-FTE also features a harmonic damper instead of a regular crankshaft pulley. The turbocharger fitted to the 4E-FTE was Toyota’s own CT9 model, which features an internal wastegate and has two modes: low 0.4 bar (5.8 psi) and high 0.65 bar (9.4 psi) boost . Low-boost mode is controlled electronically by a solenoid valve and the ECU, and high-boost mode is controlled by an actuator linked to the turbocharger. The 4E-FTE also has a top-mounted, air-cooled, intercooler. The 4E-FTE is paired with the Toyota C52 gearbox (for the EP82 Starlet GT) and the C56 gearbox (for the EP91 Glanza V).

specifications

Bore x stroke 74 mm × 77.4 mm (2.91 in × 3.05 in)

8.5:1 compression ratio

5E [ edit ]

The 5E is a 1.5L (1,497cc) DOHC 16-valve version. Power ranges from 94 PS (69 kW; 93 PS) at 5,400 rpm to 110 PS (81 kW; 108 PS) at 6,400 rpm with 123 N⋅m (91 lb⋅ft) of torque at 3,200 rpm up to 100 lb⋅ft (136 Nm) of torque at 4,000 rpm. It was introduced in 1990 and discontinued in 1998. All 5E engines are fuel injected. In 1995, Toyota changed the ignition system to a distributorless (DIS) coil-on-plug design, switched from OBD to OBD-II, and began using flat-topped pistons. This ignition design uses two coils. Each coil mounts on a spark plug, but also has a wire that goes to another cylinder’s spark plug. This is known as “wasted spark design”. It is electrically similar to motors that have a coil pack. The spark plug fires in both directions (center-to-side and side-to-center). This engine uses double platinum plugs to prevent premature wear of the side electrodes. A much thinner 0.26 mm (0.01 in) head gasket is used to increase compression after the piston domes were removed, and dual-electrode spark plugs were installed on California emission models. [citation needed] In 1996 the connecting rods were changed to the same thinner ones similar to those used in the second generation 4E-FE. In 1997, a non-return fuel system was added. The crankshaft is cast and interestingly has 3E markings.

specifications

Bore x stroke 74 mm × 87 mm (2.91 in × 3.43 in)

9.4:1 compression ratio

applications

Maximum power for the 5E-FHE was increased to 110 PS (81 kW; 108 hp). The maximum engine speed was increased to 7,200 rpm in the first generation and 7,900 rpm in the second generation. It uses the 4E-FTE’s harmonic damper and slightly more aggressive higher-lift cams (approx. 8.2mm intake side and 7.7mm exhaust side), high-compression pistons (although they have a lower dome than 4E-FE pistons), cast 4 -2-1 exhaust manifold and stronger internals (including the thicker connecting rods found in the first generation 5E-FE which are factory forged and a stronger factory forged crankshaft with 5E markings).

Some versions of the 5E-FHE (but not for the Sera) come with the ACIS intake manifold said to increase power to 130 PS (96 kW; 128 hp).

See also[edit]

Wonderful, isn’t it? It was everything we loved about performance engines of the era: high revs, scalpel-sharp response and naturally aspirated. Sure, the 4A-GE didn’t put out 500 horsepower like its other contemporaries, but it had more than enough thrust for a fun, lightweight package like the Toyota AE86.

If, like me, you’ve spent your teenage years watching the Initial D anime, you’d be familiar with the throaty, sprightly, and glorious howl of Takumi Fujiwara’s Toyota AE86 Trueno. Well, that howl is real, and it’s coming from Toyota’s legendary 4A-GE series of engines. Listen below.

My personal encounter with a 4A-GE

So today we want to appreciate what a great engine the Toyota 4A-GE really is. We’ll also tell you why we rate the 4A-GE so highly and what makes it so special.

What is a 4A GE?

The 4A-GE is a 1.6 liter, 4 cylinder, naturally aspirated family of engines (there is a supercharged variant called the 4A-GZE, but let’s focus on the 4A-GE here). The nomenclature for the engine code follows this logic:

4 – engine block version

A – engine family type

G – Double overhead camshafts (DOHC), timing belt or chain on both camshafts

E – Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)

What is the special sauce?

It may seem strange now, but when the 4A-GE was first introduced in 1983 it was way ahead of its time, being fitted with 4 valves per cylinder (and more recently 5 valves per cylinder, we’ll get to it). Most engines of this era ran with 2 valves per cylinder. You see, 4 valves per cylinder were seen more often in motorcycle engines.

For this reason, Toyota asked Yamaha, experts in motorcycles, for help in designing the cylinder head of the 4A-GE. The result? A small 1.6-litre engine that revs up so sweetly you’ll want to tie your neck all day.

Yamaha helped Toyota develop not only the 4A-GE, but also the 1LR-GUE V10 in the Lexus LFA.

photo credit

Besides motorcycle engines, only Formula 1 racing engines had a 4-valve-per-cylinder configuration. The Formula 1 engines of the time drew their power from high engine speeds, and this idea was incorporated into the development of the 4A-GE (higher engine speeds = better horsepower values). Essentially, the 4A-GE was a piece of Formula 1 technology for the masses.

4 valves per cylinder wasn’t the norm in 1983.

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The 4A-GE was more than just a connection to motorsport, it was very popular in real motorsport. It was so durable, versatile and easy to maintain that you could use it for track, drift or gymkhana (like I had) purposes.

Also Read: 15 Coolest Pop-up Headlights That Blew Us Away – AE86, RX-7, Ferraris and More!

Generations of 4A-GE – The 16-valve pioneers

Do you see the blue letters “16 Valve”?

The first three generations of the 4A-GE used a 16-valve cylinder head. The first of the three is called Blue Top (Early Bigport). This came out in 1983 as a replacement for Toyota’s 2T-G engines. It could be recognized by the silver cam cover with black and blue lettering and three reinforcing ribs on the back of the engine block.

Three reinforcement ribs on the back of the engine block.

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In the Japanese versions, which use a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor instead, power was 120 hp and 142 Nm, which is paltry by today’s standards. But the 120bhp was delivered at 6,000rpm, a testament to the rev-happy nature of this engine and powering the AE86, which weighed no more than a tonne. It’s also 15% lighter than its predecessor, the 2T-GEU.

4A-GE engine in the Toyota AE86 brochure.

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In American versions, this engine had a more restrictive impeller type air mass meter (AFM) to meet local emissions regulations. Accordingly, the performance was somewhat lower at 114 hp and 131 Nm

The nickname “Bigport” came from the large cross-section of the intake ports.

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The nickname “Bigport” came from the large cross-sectional area in the intake ports. This meant good airflow at high engine revs, but lethergy at low revs. To counter this, the Toyota Variable Induction System (T-VIS) was introduced to optimize airflow at low engine speeds. Production of the Blue Top ended in 1987.

Find the red and black lettering

The second generation Red & Black Top (Late Bigport) took over and brought larger diameter bearings for the connecting rods. The updated engine is also stronger thanks to seven reinforcing ribs on the back of the engine block instead of three.

Stronger engine block with seven reinforcing ribs on the back of the engine block

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T-VIS and AFM/MAP (market dependent) remained, but this second generation was only produced until 1988. Performance remained largely the same as the earlier Blue Top.

All red letters above now, with a new spark plug cover

Then came the final iteration of the 16-valve 4A-GE, the Red Top (Smallport). The compression ratio for this engine was raised from 9.4:1 to 10.3:1. The name “Smallport”? Well, the intake ports have been redesigned to a smaller cross-section, negating the need for T-VIS.

Above: Smallport design. Bottom: Bigport design

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Engine design improvements resulted in US versions (AFM) producing 125 hp and 149 Nm, while Japanese versions (MAP sensor) produced 10 hp more. The Red Top was produced until 1992 when an all new cylinder head was introduced.

Generations of 4A-GE – The 20 valve screamers

Silver top, geddit?

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The fourth generation 4A-GE (1991 to 1995) is also the first generation of the 20-valve engine (confused already?). The Silver Top was so named because….well, it had a silver cam cover with chrome lettering (thanks Sherlock). It brought even more improvements to squeeze out even more performance.

Variable valve timing (VVT) improved mid-range torque.

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5 valves per cylinder, variable valve timing (intake side), higher compression ratio (10.5:1). Best of all, the old intake manifold was ditched and replaced with single throttle bodies. The result? Excellent throttle response and drivability in a package that still loves to rev.

5 valves per cylinder, unusual then, still unusual today.

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157 hp now came at an exhilarating 7,400 rpm together with 162 Nm at 5,200 rpm. Curiously, the Silver Top retained the vane-type AFM system previously used in American-market 16-valve 4A GEs. This required a plenum with intake ports that are much more upright than the curved ones in the 16-valve units.

Unassuming, but redlines at 8,200 rpm.

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And onto the crown jewel of the 4A-GE family (1995 to 2000), the last iteration of the line and also the greatest, the Black Top 20 valve. Again, the name is pretty self-explanatory (black cam covers, black letters, Carry on Holmes).

Using the Silver Top as a base, the Black Top added even higher compression (11:1), larger diameter individual throttle bodies (43 to 45mm), hotter camshafts, and lighter flywheels and connecting rods. All this helped the Black Top to develop 162 hp at 7,800 rpm, along with 162 Nm of torque at 5,600 rpm. rev happy? You bet.

Conclusion

4A-GEs are synonymous with the AE86.

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If you couldn’t tell, I’m a big fan of the 4A-GE family of engines. It’s a testament to the integrity of Toyota’s engineering that you can still see these engines cruising around competing in various motorsport events. Celebrate them while you still can.

The car culture around the 4A-GE remains as strong as ever

To this day you can find aftermarket support for the 4A-GE and it remains popular with enthusiasts for not only being full of character, but also being reliable, easy to service and offering so much power for its engine size. If you want an engine to take off in motorsport, you could do worse than the 4A-GE.

My entry point to the Toyota 4A-GE

How do I know? I used to compete in Gymkhanas with a 4A-GE Black Top. In four years of competition and hard driving, it has never missed a beat. Changed the oil and it worked again. There is no such thing anymore. Therefore, the Toyota 4A-GE engine will always have a special place in my heart.