Heat Cable Clips For Metal Roof? Top 50 Best Answers

understand ice dams

Winter can be beautiful and picturesque, but it can also wreak havoc on buildings. Those sparkling icicles hanging from your roof could be hiding a big problem: ice dams.

An ice dam is a ridge of ice that develops at the edge of the roof and prevents snow from running off the roof. Ice dams tear gutters from their anchors, loosen asphalt shingles, and warp and rot wood sheathing. Snow water builds up behind the ice dams and seeps into walls and attics, resulting in damp insulation, dripping ceilings, stained sheetrock and peeling paint. If not corrected quickly, mold and mildew will soon follow.

Ice dams cause millions of dollars in damage to buildings every winter. So how can you prevent ice dams? Read on to learn RHINO’s ice dam prevention tricks.

What causes ice dams to form?

First, let’s understand how ice dams work.

In winter, most buildings are heated inside. As heat rises, the roof becomes warmer than the outside air. This heat melts the bottom layer of snow that runs off the sloping roof. However, the eaves are much colder than the rest of the roof because this area is not heated by internal heat. If the outside temperature falls below freezing, the water in the gutter or on the edge of the roof freezes and icicles form.

Over time, the water thaws and freezes repeatedly, creating a dam of ice. Soon the ice dam is higher than the water level of the melting snow on the roof. This water reservoir collects under asphalt shingles and causes them to buckle. Water then begins to seep through the roof, damaging the walls, ceiling, insulation, and contents of the home or building.

Ice Dam Prevention

So what can you do to prevent ice from forming on a roof and ice dams from forming?

REMOVE SNOW

Your first line of defense in ice protection is simply preventing snow from accumulating on the roof. Use an ice rake to gently and evenly remove snow from the roof so that one part of the roof does not support more weight than another part. Leave a small amount of snow on the roof. Scraping down to the roof surface can damage the shingles or roofing. (CAUTION: Be careful not to get large amounts of snow swept down on you! Heavy falling snow and debris can cause serious injury.)

AVOID GUTTER

Avoid gutters in areas with heavy snowfall. Although gutters do not create ice dams, they do allow water and ice to concentrate along the roofline. If gutters already exist, run heating tape or cable through gutters and downspouts to prevent ice build-up. Check with your insurance company to see if your insurance coverage allows the use of heat tape or cable.

ADD INSULATION

Heat rising to the roof melts the snow. Adding insulation to the roof or attic reduces heat loss and prevents ice dams. Seal any air leaks that could cause warm air to rise up the structure to the roof, especially near chimneys, ceiling vents, valleys, and skylights.

INCREASE VENTILATION

Adding small vents in an attic prevents warm air from pooling under the roof. However, if the roof or attic is properly sealed and insulated, vents are not necessary.

ADD A METAL ROOF

A low-friction roofing material can better shed snow and eliminate ice dam problems. With metal roofs, snow slides off the structure more easily. (CAUTION: In extremely snowy locations, large amounts of sliding snow and ice can be dangerous.)

ICE SOCKS

In a pinch, fill a sock or old pantyhose with a non-caustic ice melt. DO NOT use rock salt! Carefully place the sock over the ice dam. (CAUTION: DO NOT attempt this on a ladder! Use a snow rake or broom to position the sock from the ground.)

Let the professionals do the ice dam removal

Preventing ice dams is the best thing you can do for your home or building. However, if ice dams have already formed, do not try to remove them yourself. Removing ice dams can be extremely dangerous. It is best to allow professionals who are better prepared and equipped to carry out the snow removal safely.

Prevent ice dams with RHINO Steel Buildings

If you live in a climate where ice dams are common, consider a RHINO Steel building. Steel buildings typically do not have eaves overhangs, so ice dams are far less likely to form. In addition, the smoother metal roof on a steel building sheds ice, water, and snow more easily, making it less prone to ice dam formation.

RHINO steel buildings meet or exceed all snow loads, wind loads and local building codes for the life of the structure – guaranteed. Additionally, RHINO’s extra-thick Pro-Value insulation system keeps warm air inside instead of letting it radiate through the roof.

Call RHINO today at 940.383.9566 to learn more about designing a metal building that prevents ice dams and meets all of your other building needs.

Best ice melter for roofs

Melting ice is a very sensitive issue, especially in countries that experience winter seasons where snow and ice fall from the sky throughout the day. Winters can get awful if you don’t have the right gear to deal with all that follows. Excessive snow or a layer of ice underneath and even the endless cycle of slides and falls can make your winters pretty wistful. People are looking for simpler and easier ways to tackle the problem without causing additional damage.

Unless you invest in roofing ice melting solutions, there is a high chance of damaging the shingles. Many people are looking for the best ice melting products that have no negative or significant side effects on their environment, pets and even damage to their properties e.g. Roofs. Safe Paw has proven to be the best rooftop ice melter.

Get ready for winter with the ONLY pet-safe ice melter you can trust

What problems does ice on the roof cause?

While icicles look nice, they could pose a significant problem for you if they are allowed to remain.

They can crack your shingles and cause a leak in your home.

They can block your gutter and roof system.

A broken icicle can suddenly injure someone walking under it.

They can eventually cause fungal build-up in areas around the clapboard or chimney.

Although there can be a ton of other problems, these are the ones that almost everyone remembers. The best thing is to invest in Ice Melting, which is safe for shingles, and see the magic happen.

Safe Paw is a brand that can help you safely de-ice your roofs without damaging them. It is 100% salt and chloride free, making it safe for the environment, your roofs and your home in general.

Get ready for winter with the ONLY pet-safe ice melter you can trust. BUY NOW ON AMAZON.COM

Consider the following when purchasing ice melter for your roof:

First, determine the type of material or finish your roof is made of. Some of the ice melt used can be corrosive when applied and come in contact with certain specific materials.

Determine the level of safety in using such ice melting chemicals on your roof. Some of them have negative effects on pets, green plants and their effects can sometimes be fatal.

Read the instruction manual carefully before using the chemicals and apply them in the right amounts, or hire a professional to do the work.

Ice melting for the roofs assures you that you don’t have to climb on the roof to remove the ice. Ice Melt can be used without climbing onto the roof, which is always slippery and wet when it’s snowing.

Best ice melt on roofs

Safe Paw The original and #1 pet and child safe ice melt for over 20 years. Guaranteed to be environmentally friendly – will not harm waterways and sensitive wetlands. buy now

What kind of salts do people use as roof ice melting solutions?

They have an icy roof covered with a layer of snow; How are you?

The most common solution for many people is to use salts. These can be in any form or type – liquid or solid, magnesium or acetate, anything.

But you need to know what kind of salt is available in the market. At the same time, not all people are interested in chemical-based salts. Some prefer natural roof ice melting solutions like Safe Paw, but we’ll walk you through availability in the market.

The most common compositions are:

1. Sodium Chloride or Rock Salt or Halite The most common type of road salt, sodium chloride, also known as rock salt or halite, is widely used by people across the country. It consists of irregularly shaped crystals. Being relatively inexpensive, they are the most preferred type of deicing salts. However, they only work below 20 degrees Fahrenheit and will damage the expansion and contraction of the tiles and shingles caused by frost. In addition, they are quite toxic to surrounding vegetation, leaving a whitish residue on driveways and foliage as they dry. It makes your surroundings look very messy. As temperatures get closer to freezing point, the ice melting capacity decreases. 2. Magnesium Chloride Another popular ice melter for roofing is magnesium chloride. It has low toxicity and is less corrosive than any other chemical-based counterpart. However, it does not mean that it is also 100% safe. It is less irritating to skin, animals, vegetation, the environment, concrete, metal, etc. However, it only works up to 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything above or near zero degrees will cause the shingles and concrete to expand and contract, damaging them and making it an expensive proposition for you.

It comes in flake and pellet form. 3. Calcium Chloride Another commonly used deicing agent, calcium chloride, is available in liquid, pellet, and flake forms. Pellets are commonly used for household and living environments, while liquid-based salt and flake are used for major adjustments or overhauls. It works down to -30 degrees Fahrenheit but must be used very carefully. This is because it has a higher concentration of chlorides and can cause skin irritation when in contact with the human body or a pet. They’re melting the ice fast; However, they are not entirely harmless to vegetation, roofs and concrete. They are also exothermic and can cause cracks on the roof or around the chimney when the temperature fluctuates. The safest roof meltdown today is Safe Paw. It will help you get clean and green foliage without salt and chloride composition and keep your property safe. 4. Potassium Chloride and Urea Both are again one of the most common ice melts used in cold regions of the country today. However, while perceived as safe, they may not serve your purpose as a completely natural and eco-friendly roof snow melting solution. Urea is effective up to 15 degrees Fahrenheit and potassium chloride is effective up to 12 degrees Fahrenheit. They are both irregularly shaped whitish crystals. They may not attack vegetation or concrete directly, but will leave a whitish residue once dry. As with other chlorides, it can damage concrete due to the thaw and freeze cycle. 5. Blends Blends are a combination of any of the above chemicals and rock salt. Since each deicer has a different melting point, when mixed with rock salt they give off more heat and speed up the ice melting process. However, here comes the tricky part. Due to the freezing and refreezing process, the metal or concrete will inevitably expand and contract, eventually damaging it. In addition, each of the chemicals are quite corrosive and can also affect the environment. For example, magnesium and sodium chloride can be combined to lower the melting point to about -12 degrees Fahrenheit. However, it can melt snow faster and eventually damage vegetation, stairs, driveway, and sidewalk. Blends are also a popular choice among people due to their quick melting process. Today, however, with more conscious buyers in the market, attention has shifted to more natural roof melters like Safe Paw. Get ready for winter with the ONLY pet-safe ice melter you can trust. BUY NOW ON AMAZON.COM

Instructions for use for each ice melter

Always read the label and directions before using roof ice melter. You need to keep in mind the amount needed on different roof types, area, etc. Every roofing need is different depending on the size of the house.

Applying ice melt makes all the difference. You can’t apply it randomly or spread it all over the roof. It has to be done methodically and carefully, otherwise you may overuse or underuse it. This can lead to high repair costs after the ice has melted for an extended period of time.

The instructions also offer ways to protect you from the products if your eyes or nose or other parts of your body come into direct contact with them. Whether human or animal, we are responsible for our own safety.

The instructions in the owner’s manual also direct us to cleaning the product off the driveway after it melts off the roof and trickles down. It helps you keep your vegetation and driveway clean and residue-free.

Get ready for winter with the ONLY pet-safe ice melter you can trust. BUY NOW AT PETCO.COM

3 things to consider before investing in a rooftop snowmelt

Effectiveness Normal rock salt or chloride based ice melts are more effective than naturally occurring ingredients. In addition, prolonged use can damage the tiles and shingles, making them difficult to handle and expensive to replace. The effectiveness of each ice melt depends on the time it takes to melt the ice on the roof and the amount that may be needed. Application Care must be taken when applying roofing ice melt solutions. There is a high chance that the shingles will corrode if the ice melt is not used properly. For example, rock salt may not damage the asphalt shingles all that much, but it will rust the nails used to hold them in place. Instead, Safe Paw is the best solution for melting roof ice as it is made from 100% eco-friendly materials that are pet and child safe. You only need ½ the amount of rock salt, but with a triple effect. Protect Your Plants As soon as the chloride-based ice melt mixes with water, it runs down the sloping roofs and falls onto the plants and flower beds around you. Therefore, it makes sense to invest in an ice melter that won’t damage your watercourses, gutters, and hardened concrete after the ice starts to melt.

Benefits of using Safe Paw Ice Melt for your roof

This eco-friendly snow and ice melter is safe to use and does not pollute the environment and can also be used on plants.

It contains a traction agent that prevents falls and ensures that there are no slips

Preserves and protects your roof; By knowing and understanding your roof; Safe Paw is designed to protect floors and roofs. It is the best product not to destroy your roof

Ice melt products are mostly made up of chemicals. Safe Paw consists of traction devices that prevent falls and slips. It also has a modified crystal compound that has a dual effect when used. It melts the ice and protects your roof adequately for over three days. It also contains a special glycol blend. Safe Paw is also salt-free and safe to use is guaranteed.

Ice melting chemicals are available at supermarkets, hardware stores, hardware stores, and other retail outlets. You can buy Safe Paw at the same locations. Safe Paw has green pellets in appearance and can be used to differentiate it from the other ice melt products.

Tips for choosing the best ice melter for your roofs

Know your roofs and surfaces well before buying ice melting products

Always wear protective clothing to protect yourself.

Choose an ice melt product that has the least negative impact.

Make sure you put waterproofing material under your roof to prevent water from seeping in.

The best tip for using ice melting products on your roof is to ensure ice dams don’t form and Safe Paw provides that security by attracting sunlight during the day which provides more heat output and therefore a high rate of ice melting.

Using a proper roof shingle ice melt safe will go a long way in protecting your brickwork and gutters. Safe Paw’s proprietary traction agent provides slip protection, lasts 72+ hours on the surface, and is salt-free, chlorine-free, and acetate-free. It’s proven safe for your foliage, concrete, brick, asphalt, metal and the environment at large. Despite having several products available in the market, Safe Paw has become the preferred choice for many buyers due to its effects.

We want to help you protect your home and environment step by step.

Buy Safe Paw ice melter for your roof today.

Get ready for winter with the ONLY pet-safe ice melter you can trust. BUY NOW AT CHEWY.COM

Other Ice Melting Products

As the weather turns colder, it’s a good time to do some routine maintenance on your home, such as: B. Cleaning your gutters to prepare for the winter season. Is your roof in good shape and ready for another snowy, frigid Midwestern winter?

One of the difficulties of living in a climate prone to snow and ice storms is the formation of ice dams on your roof. Ice dams are the accumulation of ice and snow around the edges and eaves of your roof. This can create beautiful icicles – and damage to your roof, broken gutters and water ingress.

What Causes Ice Dams?

After a significant snowfall with sustained temperatures below freezing, your roof may be covered in a thick layer of snow. Your roof should ideally be the same temperature or colder than the outside air so that snow melts and evaporates from the outer layer or runs off an outer, icy crust. Often, however, the heat from a home seeps through your ceiling, into the attic, and through the roof. This makes the roof warmer than the outside temperature and melts the bottom layer of snow sitting on it. On sloping roofs, the melted snow trickles down the roof – under the snow cover. But the edges of the roof are colder as they hang over cold air instead of sitting on top of the heat permeable house. When the runoff reaches the colder edges, it freezes, blocking further runoff like a dam.

Over time, this iceberg builds up; it can happen extremely quickly, especially if your gutters are clogged. As the ice dam grows, it prevents water from draining off the roof, giving it a great opportunity to seep between the seams of your clapboards and into your home. This can cause damage to your roof structure and insulation, water ingress and harmful mold growth. The ice blockages can also damage gutters and create hazards for people and animals below.

How can heating cables help prevent ice dams?

Heating cables, also known as heating tape, heating wire or roof ice cable, are heating cables that can be attached to your roof. If you’re having trouble with ice building up on the eaves of your home and ice dams forming, running heating cable in problem areas seems like a great solution to melt the ice.

Heating cables melt channels through already formed ice dams to minimize ice build-up. Ideally, they can help snowmelt flow off your roof rather than pooling behind the dam. This can help prevent water from entering your roof deck and home. They are usually installed in patterns along the eaves, in roof valleys, around chimneys and skylights, and in gutters or downspouts. They can be a helpful tool when used as part of a comprehensive snow and ice removal plan to deal with roof leaks. They are particularly useful for very limited problem areas where you cannot address the underlying cause of ice dam formation. However, if you have widespread ice dams in your home, you likely have problems with your attic insulation, ventilation, or roof.

The most common areas of the home where ice dams form are

In valleys of the roof

On flat roofs

Around chimneys and skylights

At the eaves (by far the most common spot)

Heating cables are often the first things that come to mind for homeowners trying to deal with ice dams. First of all, it is very important to understand that heating cables do NOT prevent ice dam formation or eliminate it altogether. They merely melt channels through the ice dams formed to minimize the amount of debris and partially remove snow from the area. To prevent ice dams, you must address the root cause of the problem.

Advantages of installing heating cables

When installed properly and professionally, heating cables can be very useful in minimizing water accumulation behind ice dams. While not a permanent solution, they are a good choice when you need a quick fix. They are also much less expensive than sealing attic air leaks, installing proper insulation, and creating proper ventilation systems. The biggest benefit is the simple fact that heating cables protect your gutters from filling up with ice, breaking off and damaging your roof.

Disadvantages of installing heating cables

Heating cables require electricity to work. Leaving them on all winter is sure to increase your utility bills. You also need to monitor them to make sure they aren’t overheating or using more power than necessary. Heating cables can protect your home from ice damage, but they’re not pretty and can reduce curb appeal. Since they don’t address the underlying problem, this approach could become more expensive in the long run.

Most often, ice dams form due to poor attic insulation or ventilation, improper roof installation, or roof damage. All of these factors contribute to a roof that stays warmer than 30°F in freezing weather. Have a roofer do an energy audit before freezing and snowy weather sets in. Following their recommendations for reinforcing specific areas of your attic or roof insulation can make a world of difference in preventing ice dams. Subscribe to our blog for more tips on preparing and protecting your home for winter conditions!

How much do you know about which clips to use with the specific metal roofing system you are installing? Did you know that using the wrong clip can damage or damage the entire metal roof?

It’s true: something as small as a clip can have a significant impact on a roof’s performance and overall integrity. For this reason, it is important to know what a metal roof clip actually does and what different types are available for different panel styles.

At Sheffield Metals we work with roofing contractors every day to ensure their teams install the correct clips on every project. In fact, we even offer a full line of accessories (including clips) that we recommend for use with our sheets and coils, which is why we think it’s important to educate you about clips.

Expect to discover the following in this article:

What is a metal roof clip?

The types of clips

Popular clip manufacturers

Pros and cons of using a system that requires clips

What are metal roof clips?

First, let’s define a clip: it’s a hidden anchor that attaches a metal plate to the substrate (roof deck or other material beneath the metal plates) with fasteners. Clips are also sometimes referred to as cleats.

Clips can be available in a variety of metal materials and gauges including:

Galvalume®

Galvanized steel

Stainless steel

copper

aluminum

Galvalume and zinc plated clips are the most commonly used in the industry. However, stainless steel clips are recommended for use near shore and with zinc and copper plates. Depending on the type of metal plate system, clips can fit a variety of metal gauges, typically ranging from 26 to 18 gauge. Or clips can be supplied in a combination of two different strengths for two piece clip systems. Always ensure that the clip used on your (or your customer’s) roof conforms to the manufacturer’s recommendations and tests for your roof type; particularly in terms of potentially dissimilar metals, location (particularly bay, swamp and other coastal applications) and profile.

For the purposes of this article we will focus primarily on clips for standing seam metal roofing systems, but clips can be used as fastening anchors for a variety of other building and roofing materials including:

wall systems

Metal tile systems

Bermuda panels

Flat lock panels

clips and technology

We’re often asked if clips are constructed, and the answer is, sort of.

What is referred to as a “technical clip” is a clip specified for use in a technical metal roofing system that has been tested to meet strict guidelines and industry standards. Just because a clip is used in engineering, it must still be installed per the manufacturer’s recommendations or the design report (i.e. clip spacing, number and type of fasteners) for the design to be valid.

On the other hand, there are UL rated clamps that are used in a UL rated build number. However, this does not mean that a clip without a UL stamp has not been used in a UL recognized system.

Additionally, the clip used was often not tested in a metal roof assembly, meaning the clip or system was not engineered. This varies depending on the panel system and manufacturer. For standing seam applications we recommend using a system that has a clip interface and using a system that has been tested together whenever possible.

Contact the manufacturer or supplier for more information on the technology associated with the clips you are interested in.

Types of metal roofing clips

You might see a clip and think it just looks like a piece of metal that, once installed, you’ll never see again. That’s partly true, but there are actually numerous different types of clips that work and function differently. In this section, we’ll dive deeper into the five most common clip categories.

To reiterate, a clip’s performance is a direct reflection of how well the manufacturer’s requirements and recommendations are followed by installers.

Expansion and contraction clips

What It Is: An expansion and contraction clip is a metal roofing clip that attaches to the deck and has a moving slide that attaches to the male leg of the panel prior to hemming, which allows for the thermal movement of a metal roofing system required. These clips are also known as slider or butterfly clips, depending on the style.

When used: Normally, expansion and contraction clips are used in mechanically seamed metal roofing systems because without a moving clip the panels would not be able to expand or contract, especially when the system is double interlocked (180 degree seam).

Additional Considerations: Expansion and contraction clips are the more expensive clip option, especially when compared to the price of a fixed clip. Also, extension clips sometimes come unassembled when purchased, requiring each piece to be assembled by hand.

Fixed clips

What it is: A fixed clip is exactly what it sounds like: a clip that attaches to the male leg of the panel and then bolts and fixes directly to the subsurface or roof deck. This type of clip is fixed, has no slider, and does not expand or contract with the roof panels.

When used: Fixed clips are suitable for use in snap closure systems (flanged/nail systems without fasteners) or short length mechanically seamed systems. Most engineered snap fit panel systems are designed to expand and contract independently as the panels are not attached to the structure directly through the metal on the roof deck. Fixed clips also work with short mechanical systems, as thermal movement is not a major concern for panels less than 20 feet long. Mechanically seamed systems with long panel runs should not use fixed clips.

Additional Considerations: One of the key benefits of installing fixed clips is that they are cheaper than expansion and contraction clips, which should be noted in the contractor’s bid or bid. Fixed clips can also be a useful component on longer panel runs or barrel roofs when you want to intentionally secure the panel in a specific location to force expansion and contraction in two directions (as opposed to just in the eaves direction in a typical installation) .

Floating Clips

What it is: A floating clip is a clip that floats or lifts the metal plate off the substrate by about a half inch or an inch. Floating clips can expand and contract, or installed as fixed clips as well.

When Used: Floating clips are typically installed in open frame applications (mechanically lined systems) to create a space for compressed ceiling insulation. If you are not using ceiling insulation, floating clips can help reduce noise and purlin rattle that can occur when there is insufficient clearance between the purlin and the panels.

Other Considerations: One of the downsides to using a levitating clip is that since you’re levitating the panel an inch or a half inch above the surface, you’ll have to adjust the flashing panel to accommodate the gap. To reduce the likelihood of oil pockets and other potential metal roofing problems, installers must create a level surface for the panel to be installed, which is more time consuming, labor intensive, and expensive. Like a standard fixed clip, a floating fixed clip is not recommended for mechanically seamed panels over 20 feet.

batten clips

What it is: Batten clips install between two adjacent male legs (there are no female legs with batten profiles) on each side of the panel. Once the batten clip is secured to the substrate, a batten cap that extends over both adjacent panel edges snaps onto the clip on either side and is either snapped or mechanically hemmed in place.

When used: Batten clips are used exclusively for batten panel systems, also known as T-seam and snap cap.

Additional considerations: Expansion and contraction are possible with a batten clip, especially if the panels are not mechanically connected to each other. It is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using a batten clip, or indeed a clip, as it can cause a roofing system to fail if installed incorrectly. Like fixed clips, batten clips are cheaper than expansion and contraction clips.

stollen

What It Is: Cleats are the clips used to anchor a metal wall system. Think of it as a flat fixed clip that attaches to the male leg of the wall panel, attaches to the wall substrate, and then the female legs go over the clip to snap or snap into place.

When used: Studs are typically seen in wall systems. See the SMI WAV Panel Profile for an example of using a stud.

Additional Considerations: Depending on what type of wall panel system you are installing, studs can allow for expansion and contraction of the wall system since the panels are not directly attached to the structure. Cleats are also used throughout metal roofing (valley detail) and flat roof metal cladding installations. We would like to make a clear distinction here that we are specifically referring to studs used in wall applications.

Manufacturer of metal roof clips

Like most products, many different companies make brackets and studs that are used in metal roofing and walling systems. For reference, here are some of the most popular ones:

Schoolmaster Metal Products Inc.

SFS intec

BPD – A Logan Stampings Company Clip Finder – BPD has a feature on their website called Clip Finder that allows you to locate the correct matching clips based on profiles provided by roll forming companies (including New Tech Machinery). Even if the clip fits, be sure to check with the panel manufacturer for applicable technology for the system.

AMSI supply

Pros and cons of using clips

We think it’s important to give you the full scope of what using metal roofing and wall system brackets/clamps entails, which is why we want to go through some of the most notable pros and cons of using brackets.

Benefits of using clips

Thermal Motion/No Pinned Plates – As mentioned, problems can arise when you restrict the expansion and contraction required for proper thermal motion of a metal plate, such as Using the right clip, installed correctly, is one of the best ways to avoid thermal movement issues.

– As mentioned, problems can arise when you restrict the expansion and contraction required for proper thermal movement of a metal plate, such as Using the right clip, installed correctly, is one of the best ways to avoid thermal movement issues. Aesthetically Pleasing – Standing seam metal roofing is becoming increasingly popular in architectural applications due to its modern and clean look. And since the clips are hidden under the bezel, you don’t have to worry about spoiling the sleek look you might be after.

– Standing seam metal roofing is becoming increasingly popular in architectural applications due to its modern and clean look. And since the clips are hidden under the bezel, you don’t have to worry about spoiling the sleek look you might be after. Engineered Systems Available – Without the use of a metal panel system that requires clips, it is difficult to get a concealed fastener/flange metal roofing system to pass the rigorous testing that engineered metal roofing goes through, as all the parts that make up an engineered metal roofing system are important Parts that cannot be forgotten.

– Without using a metal panel system that requires clips, it is difficult to get a metal roofing system with concealed fasteners/flanges to pass the rigorous testing that engineered metal roofing is subjected to as all the parts that make up an engineered metal roofing system are important Parts are that you can not forget. Multiple Options to Choose From – While the type of clip is fairly strict based on the profile you are installing, the size (height and width) of the clip varies dramatically. No matter the size, you can find a clip that fits your application.

Disadvantages of using clips

Installation Dependent – We’ve mentioned this throughout this article, but we’d like to reiterate the importance of proper clip installation. If one or more mistakes are made when installing the clips, it can lead to failure of the entire metal roof or wall system. Therefore, if you are an architect or builder, choosing a reputable and qualified roofing company is one of the most important tasks.

– We’ve mentioned this throughout this article, but we’d like to reiterate the importance of correct clip installation. If one or more mistakes are made when installing the clips, it can lead to failure of the entire metal roof or wall system. Therefore, if you are an architect or builder, choosing a reputable and qualified roofing company is one of the most important tasks. More expensive – Remember: clips are another expense. If the budget is already tight and you think you can’t buy clips, it may be worth looking into a metal roofing system with exposed fasteners, a mounting flange system, or some other material that doesn’t require clips. In addition to clips, the cost of fasteners must also be considered.

Remember: clips are another expense. If the budget is already tight and you think you can’t buy clips, it may be worth looking into a metal roofing system with exposed fasteners, a mounting flange system, or some other material that doesn’t require clips. In addition to clips, the cost of fasteners must also be considered. Time-Consuming and Labor-Intensive – Installing clips can lengthen an installation as installers must fasten each one and ensure the spacing is correct. This slower process could also result in a higher price.

Final Thoughts on Metal Roofing Brackets and Clamps

All in all, clips are an essential part of any metal roofing system and should not be overlooked during the installation process. If you’re ever wondering what type of clip to use, always ask for the manufacturer’s recommendations for the profile you’re installing.

As a reminder, there are five types of clips for different metal roofing systems:

Expansion and Contraction Clips – Used in long-running, mechanically sewn systems

– Used in long run, mechanically seamed systems Fixed Clips – Used in snap lock systems and short run (less than 20 feet) mechanically seamed systems

– Used in snap closure systems and short run (less than 20 foot) mechanically folded systems. Floating Clips – Used in open frame applications

– Used in open frame applications. Batten Clips – Used for batten profile applications (T-seam and snap cap).

– Used for batten profile applications (T-seam and snap cap) Cleats – Used in metal wall systems

At Sheffield Metals we have been distributing metal coils, accessories (including clips), roll forming machines and engineered roofing and walling systems for almost 20 years. In fact, all of our tech systems have recommended clips that have been tested and proven in extreme weather situations.

If you have any questions about clips or any other part of a metal roofing system, contact us today to speak to our knowledgeable and helpful technical department!

Credit: Photos.com/Photos.com/Getty Images See more photos

Although it may seem counterintuitive, metal roofing can be attached directly to your building’s roof structure without the need for, and expensive, plywood panels. As long as the inside of your roof is protected from moisture build-up, an underlay isn’t necessary, although homeowners who want to heavily insulate their home may install plywood to protect their investment.

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Attachment to purlins

For many applications, a layer of plywood under your metal roof is an unnecessary expense. Metal roof panels fastened to purlins (horizontal pieces of wood or metal attached to roof trusses) designed for “architectural purposes” are structurally sound when installed in accordance with your roof manufacturer’s instructions and local building codes. The spacing of your purlins depends on the expected snow and wind load. In most parts of the United States, center spacing is no more than 24 inches, although your roofer or civil engineer can help you determine the proper spacing for your site. 1″ x 4″ or 2″ x 4″ boards are commonly used for purlins, but never use treated wood as this will corrode the steel roof and fasteners.

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prevent condensation

In a barn, shop or other outbuilding, you can attach your metal roof directly to the purlins. However, in a residential application, condensation is a problem. Moisture can build up on the inside of your metal roof when warm, humid air in your building meets the cold metal of your roof. This condensation can collect and drip onto drywall or indoor furniture. If you omit plywood on a residential build, install a vapor barrier between the purlins and the metal roof, or plan to spray closed-cell foam insulation between the rafters to eliminate the temperature difference between the air in the building and the metal.

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Consider when to use plywood

While metal roofing does not require a plywood underlay, there are circumstances when you may want to install plywood to anticipate future roofing requirements or to provide additional soundproofing. Modern metal roofs are designed to last 30 years or more. When the metal is eventually replaced, roofs without a plywood backing will need to have the insulation replaced or repaired since it is attached to the metal. Planning for repairs three decades from now may seem imprudent, but the cost of plywood today is likely much less than the cost and hassle of re-insulating later. A layer of plywood also provides an extra layer of soundproofing against rain landing on the roof, although the air pocket between the roof and the inner drywall plays a larger role in soundproofing. If using plywood, nail it directly to the purlins and screw the metal roof panels through the plywood into the purlins according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In this installation, the vapor barrier is placed on the inside of the insulation.

Choose the right underlay material for your metal roofing project

materials for roof underlays

Underlay products for use under standing seam metal roofing systems should be carefully selected to provide a roofing system that will perform optimally throughout the life of the building. Several considerations need to be made when designing the roofing system, including ensuring that the four barriers needed in any building envelope, i.e. H. water barrier, thermal barrier, vapor barrier and air barrier are present and in the right place for a specific climate.

The long-term performance of the roof in service can be affected by several important factors including: the metal roofing system and its expected lifespan, the climate at the building’s location, the roof pitch and geometry, and the environmental conditions (temperature/relative humidity) within the building. Improper roof underlay selection can result in roof leaks or trapping moisture due to vapor diffusion or air exfiltration, which can accelerate the deterioration of hidden components, shortening their lifespan and requiring repairs. In addition, to ensure long life, the underlay should match the intended service life of the metal roofing system.

Metal structural roof panel systems are designed to span structural supports without the need for a structural ceiling. Therefore, they typically do not include a roof underlay since the installation lacks a continuous substrate or deck to support the underlay material.

A roof underlay is required for architectural metal roof panel systems to help control water leakage through the roof system during heavy rainstorms or snowmelt conditions. Enhanced roof underlays are often specified in cold climates for added protection against ice dam leakage, while high temperature underlays are designed for use in high temperature environments where the operating temperature can reach temperatures of up to 240°F. Typical materials for underlays are:

(asphalt-saturated) felt underlay

Plastic film base

Rubberised asphalt or butyl based sheet with polyethylene top layer, self-adhesive membrane backing

felt pad

The traditional and most commonly used roof underlay material on a steep metal roof is an unperforated felt underlay impregnated with asphalt. There are different types of felt backings including both organically reinforced and inorganically reinforced. In comparison to organically reinforced felt underlays, the inorganic, glass fiber reinforced felt underlay usually lies flatter and stands up better than the organic ones.

Depending on the requirements of the architect, the building regulations or the sheet metal manufacturer, one or two-layer unperforated asphalt boards are used locally.

A felt backing offers little resistance to air and moisture vapor migration and does not serve as an effective air barrier. Felt-backed metal architectural roofs are best suited for buildings with reasonable pitch and low moisture loading in dry or arid climates. Conversely, felt underlay is appropriate in conjunction with ice dam protection at eaves and other critical transitions in cold climates.

Synthetic sheet pad

Synthetic plastic film underlays are generally made of polyethylene, polyolefin, or polypropylene between 8 and 30 mils thick. Synthetic plastic film underlay is less susceptible to wind damage and lays flatter if wetted after installation. They are less sensitive to cold than felt and cost less than self-adhesive membrane pads.

Most of the synthetic film backings sold are vapor resistant and are not generally considered air barriers.

Self-adhesive membrane pad

Membrane roof underlays, consisting of either a rubberized asphalt or butyl based adhesive with a polyethylene backing sheet, are a peel and stick product designed to adhere to the roof deck. They are effective on standing seam metal roofs to protect against ice dams in the places you might expect including eaves, valleys, dormers or risers. Conversely, when compared to asphalt-based membranes, butyl-based self-adhesive membranes offer protection in high-temperature environments where the operating temperature can reach temperatures as high as 240°F. This is of particular concern for architectural metal roof assemblies, since elevated roof surface temperatures, particularly in desert climates and at high altitudes, can exceed the melting point of some asphalt-based foil membranes and damage the membrane.

These membranes are typically vapor impermeable and because they are fully adhered to the substrate and adjacent plies at the side and end laps, they withstand differential air pressure and serve as an effective air barrier material.

Choosing the correct and most effective underlay for a metal roofing system will undoubtedly result in maximum roof performance and can play an important role in extending the life of the roof and the building it protects.

Working on a roof is dangerous. Always use safety equipment and exercise caution to avoid injury and falls.

Make sure the corrugated boards are securely fastened to the rafters so the roof is solid. If there aren’t enough rafters to create a solid base for the roof, you may need to add some before placing the metal panels.

If you’ve ever dealt with split shingles and roof leaks due to an unchecked ice dam, you’ve probably considered roof heating cable as your solution. However, roof heating cables are largely ineffective for ice dams. In the following post, the Roofers Guild defines roof heating cables and outlines six reasons why you shouldn’t use them to treat ice dams.

What are roof heating cables?

Roof heating cables, for those who have never thought about it, are pretty much what they sound like: lengths of cable, tape, or wire that install on top of your shingles and heat up to keep water from freezing on your roof .

Why you shouldn’t be using roof heating cable for ice dams in 2022

Roof heating cables sound like an innovative and clever way to prevent ice dams from forming on your roof. But before you go out and pay someone to install them for you, take a minute to go through our list of reasons why attic heating cables are actually not a good idea.

1) Roof heating cables can be dangerous

Think about it; You put pieces of heated wire on your roof. According to a safety advisory from the Washington Post, citing a report by the Consumer Product Safety Commission, roof heating cables are responsible for around 2,000 building fires and over 100 injuries annually. So are roof heating cables dangerous? They certainly can. But roof safety is not the only concern associated with this de-icing method.

2) Heating cables are not a panacea

A lot of people who start looking for roof heating cables have the same misconception: they think they’re removing all the ice from the roof. That’s not how heating cables work. Roof heating cables only melt snow and ice directly around them. When they work, you usually see thin streaks, which are the clear paths where cables melt in the snow and ice.

Their function is simply to create enough space and melt enough ice to prevent ice dams and provide a channel for water flow to the gutters. That being said, heating cables won’t protect your roof if your gutters are clogged, and they certainly won’t remove all of the snow and ice from your roof.

3) Cables are additional running costs

If you have an average sized roof, you will expect an average cost of $7.25 per day to install your roof heating cables. That adds up to a lot of extra money during the winter months when you most likely have to run your heating cable for days all day. Now it can be argued that $7.25 a day is still less money than repairing a collapsed roof, which is true.

In most cases, however, homeowners do not need to install roof heating cables. Regular maintenance and a little care is enough for most homes to avoid dangerous ice dams in winter. For example, (safely) raking your roof as snow accumulates on it is an effective and inexpensive way to protect it from ice dams.

4) Roof heating cables require precise installation

If the contractor you hire to install your heating cables doesn’t have a lot of experience and the greatest possible investment in the project, your cables may very well become a bigger problem than if they were never installed at all. That’s because the ice they melt can just refreeze on other parts of your roof if not installed very cleverly and strategically. They must be placed so that all melted ice is directed to the ground or down the gutters.

5) Cables look bad in summer and spring

If you don’t live in the Arctic Circle, you don’t need your roof heating cables all year round. While snow covers most wires in the winter, the wires are fully visible to the neighborhood during the summer and spring months — think broken Christmas lights strewn on your roof year-round.

Also, uninstalling the roof heating cable isn’t exactly a do-it-yourself job. In short, it’s not worth stripping down your attic heating cables every year and then reinstalling them every winter — especially when the average cost of installing attic heating cables is $447 to $1200. So you might want to avoid the eyesore altogether.

6) There are better ways to tackle ice dams

Perhaps the most important reason why roof heating cables are ineffective at preventing ice dams is that there are far better ways to prevent them. In most cases, ice dams are caused because heat escapes from inside, snow on the roof melts, and the melted snow runs down to a colder area of ​​the roof and freezes again. Fixing these heat leaks is the most effective and beneficial way to avoid ice dams — and cut your heating bills on top of that.

Heating cable and tape are designed to prevent pipes from freezing, maintain pipe contents temperature and melt snow and ice from roofs and in drains, gutters and downspouts. And some people buy the wrong item because they don’t know the difference between heating cable and heating tape.

Different flexibility

The heating cable is a little stiff, but pliable enough to wrap around your pipes and it won’t shrink; Heat tape is extremely flexible and is good for conforming to very tight contours where high temperatures are required, so it is better for tight contours and odd shaped pipes.

Various temperature controls

Heating cables come in two varieties: self-regulating or constant power. The self-regulating heating cable does exactly what its name suggests, it can automatically adjust its power output to compensate for changes in temperature. This is an advantage as it prevents it from overheating making it perfect for freeze protection on pipes.

For constant wattage heater tapes and heat tracing cables you need regulators to regulate them as they will overheat. Constant wattage heating cables do not control their own temperature. It is always “on” so an external controller must be used to control the amount of heat produced.

Nor can heating tape be cut to length or terminated on site, so it must be ordered in specific lengths.

Different use

Another difference is the way they must be wrapped around pipes. Of the two types, the heat tape is the one you need to pay the most attention to. It must be wrapped perfectly and tightly around each pipe. The reason for this is that even a small segment of tape with both sides exposed to the air, that particular segment will not transfer heat past that point and the tape will overheat and collapse.

Alarm companies serve a much-needed purpose: they provide an extra layer of protection for homes and businesses. The 24/7 monitoring of customers’ properties is intended to reduce response times for emergency services if the security system detects a break-in or fire. But it’s ironic that one of these security companies had to call a Utah fire department to be sent to the company’s own building!

According to an article in the Deseret News, Vivint Home Security in Lindon issued the “self-alarm” on the morning of March 18. More than 500 employees had to be evacuated after first responders saw smoke rising from the building’s roof. Over two dozen firefighters from five different departments were required to extinguish the blaze.

The obvious cause of this disaster? heat tape.

Heat band and fire hazard

The Lindon Police Chief said investigators believe a piece of heat tape was what started the fire. It is believed that the heating tape was hot when it made contact with some foam material under the metal roof. The heating tape was reportedly placed there to keep the gutters from freezing.

Unfortunately, heating tape has the potential to cause fires in homes and businesses. Many of these products are just non-regulating tape that plugs into a wall outlet. Leaving the heating tape activated for a long period of time – especially when temperatures are rising and/or the tape is well insulated – can cause a fire. As such, property owners who use thermal tape to prevent ice from forming in their gutters (or to melt ice that is already there) need to remain extra vigilant.

Damage can be extensive

Otherwise, your home or business could meet a similar fate as Vivint Home Security’s. Estimates of the damage are estimated to be in the hundreds of thousands of dollars. More importantly, two occupants of the building required treatment for smoke inhalation and one firefighter was injured when part of the ceiling collapsed on him (the injuries were not life-threatening, but he required surgery). Eventually, the hundreds of employees who were inside had to be transferred (or maybe even furloughed) during the repair process.

Helmet warmth = Safe gutter protection

There’s another way to clear ice in your gutters without exposing your home or business to fire damage: helmet heat.

Unlike many heat tape products, Helmet Heat is a self-regulating cable included in Gutter Helmet’s gutter protection system. Although the cable connects to a power source much like a heating tape, the big difference is that the helmet heater only activates when the ambient temperature drops below a certain temperature. Whenever the mercury rises well above the freezing mark, Helmet Heat shuts off so there is no risk of overheating. Also, since the cord is actually within the gutter cover of the Gutter helmet itself, it cannot come into contact with combustible materials on the roof or in the gutters when it is on.

Harry Helmet is an authorized installer of the Gutter Helmet and Helmet Heat systems. So if you want the peace of mind that your gutters won’t freeze over in winter and the satisfaction of never having to clean your gutters again, contact Harry Helmet today by calling toll free 1-888-5-HELMET or Call Visit Harry Helmet’s website to arrange a free no-obligation appointment.

Photo Credit #1: Deserted News

Written by Del Thebaud

heating cable

Heating cable, heating tape, heating wire… these are different names that mean the same thing. They are hot wires that run up and down your roof to melt snow and prevent ice build-up on your overhangs and in your valleys.

Heating cable has its place in the world (more on that in a moment), but I don’t usually recommend it to my clients for a few reasons:

Heat Cable Problem #1: It’s often a band-aid.

The heating cable doesn’t fix the root cause of the problem: too much snow on an overheated roof due to warm air entering your attic.

90% of the time this problem is fixable and it all starts with a quality home energy audit by someone knowledgeable about insulation, ventilation and ice dams. You’ll likely be asked to seal off spaces where warm air enters your attic – such as around lights, outlets, etc. These areas that allow air leaks into your attic are known as “attic bypasses.” Your energy consultant may also tell you to double your insulation, or increase your ventilation, or both

Heat Cable Problem #2: It’s a power guzzler.

Even a very good heating cable can increase your energy bill by around 20% depending on how often you turn it on. It’s no better for your wallet than it is for the environment. (If I’m going to incur the wrath of Al Gore, I would at least want to because I have the flashiest Christmas lights in the neighborhood.)

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Some homeowners forget to turn off the heating cable. You accidentally leave it on during the warmer months, wasting more energy and money. This also causes your heating cable to wear out much faster. Most heating cables don’t even last long initially; The average lifespan of heating cables seems to be around 3-5 years. Again, this depends on a number of factors.

(Side note: Apparently they’re making some kind of heating cable now that turns itself on and off automatically. But I don’t trust most of the technology that just came out of the lab, and even if the heating cable turns itself off in the spring, it still turns itself on pose problems in winter.)

Heating cable problem #3: Snow melts and can easily refreeze.

Anything that melts snow on your roof can create an ice dam. The cables create many zigzag channels of melted snow on your roof. Where does the melted snow go? Well, let it roll down the sloping roof and land on the ground. But in many cases it will refreeze at the edge of your overhangs or just above the heating cable. How do I know? Because not only did we install heating cables many years ago, we also removed dozens of ice dams on homes with heating cables installed each year.

Heating Cable Problem #4: The warranty is a joke in most cases.

Sometimes heating cable installers will try to sell you heating cable by telling you it comes with a “great guarantee”! What they don’t tell you is that the warranty is usually parts only, and that the parts (the cable and the tape) are dirt cheap. Labor accounts for most of the installation cost. Look for a parts and labor warranty. There’s a good chance you won’t find it, as by its very nature heating cable doesn’t last long, especially with heavy use.

If you can find a parts and labor warranty, make sure it’s offered by a company that’s been around longer than your favorite pair of socks.

Last but not least, ask the installer what happens if the heating cable doesn’t work and you still have ice dams. (Your answer might just confirm my point.)

Heating cable problem #5: It’s ugly.

Even if a heating cable works perfectly, it’s still ugly. You might as well wear Crocs while you’re at it.

Why do people take off their Christmas lights every year? Because your home looks sad and untidy with a bunch of unused cords hanging around everywhere.

But unlike Christmas lights, heating cables don’t need to be removed and reinstalled every year. It’s semi-permanent. It will stand on the protruding parts of your roof – your overhanging valleys – staring you in the face 365 days a year.

We know what a pain heating cable is. We installed it earlier.

In the beginning, homeowners kept asking us about heating cables. Everyone wanted what seemed like a quick, easy, and cheap solution to the ice dam problem.

But we had to stop. We just had too many problems with heating cables – the ones I told you about. I do not offer services that do not represent good value for money and while it has been a very profitable business we have moved on from it altogether.

As an ice dam removal expert, I help my clients solve problems and in many cases the heating cable caused problems.

When is a heating cable suitable?

If you’ve been reading fairly closely, you might have noticed that I said, “I rarely recommend heating cables.” Believe it or not, sometimes it’s the only option, and it can be effective.

Some houses have design flaws, and sometimes the cost of fixing the design flaw is just too high. Some houses are magnets for ice dams, and nothing will keep the ice dams away. In this case, a heating cable can help you to free problem areas from snow and ice.

But you probably don’t live in this house. You should only try heating cables as a last resort. That means you’ve done the energy audit, you’ve got the insulation techs out, you’ve had your ventilation checked, you’ve sealed any air leaks in your attic, and you’re raking your roof when the snow starts to pile. A cool and clean roof is the best way to prevent ice dams.

In the event that you are still getting ice dams after all of this, you might want to have a heating cable professionally installed in those problem areas. Just know that it’s a last resort and still doesn’t always serve the purpose.

We remove more ice dams per year than probably any other company on the planet. Many of these ice dams are in homes with heating cables. I cannot in good faith recommend that you install heating cable on your roof unless you have tried every other preventative measure first (which will likely work).

This post is written by Joe Palumbo and originally published on Ice Dam Guys Blog. Follow Joe on Twitter: @icedamguys.

If you blog and would like your work to be considered for the Minnesota Blog Cabin, please submit our registration form.

As the weather turns colder, it’s a good time to do some routine maintenance on your home, such as: B. Cleaning your gutters to prepare for the winter season. Is your roof in good shape and ready for another snowy, frigid Midwestern winter?

One of the difficulties of living in a climate prone to snow and ice storms is the formation of ice dams on your roof. Ice dams are the accumulation of ice and snow around the edges and eaves of your roof. This can create beautiful icicles – and damage to your roof, broken gutters and water ingress.

What Causes Ice Dams?

After a significant snowfall with sustained temperatures below freezing, your roof may be covered in a thick layer of snow. Your roof should ideally be the same temperature or colder than the outside air so that snow melts and evaporates from the outer layer or runs off an outer, icy crust. Often, however, the heat from a home seeps through your ceiling, into the attic, and through the roof. This makes the roof warmer than the outside temperature and melts the bottom layer of snow sitting on it. On sloping roofs, the melted snow trickles down the roof – under the snow cover. But the edges of the roof are colder as they hang over cold air instead of sitting on top of the heat permeable house. When the runoff reaches the colder edges, it freezes, blocking further runoff like a dam.

Over time, this iceberg builds up; it can happen extremely quickly, especially if your gutters are clogged. As the ice dam grows, it prevents water from draining off the roof, giving it a great opportunity to seep between the seams of your clapboards and into your home. This can cause damage to your roof structure and insulation, water ingress and harmful mold growth. The ice blockages can also damage gutters and create hazards for people and animals below.

How can heating cables help prevent ice dams?

Heating cables, also known as heating tape, heating wire or roof ice cable, are heating cables that can be attached to your roof. If you’re having trouble with ice building up on the eaves of your home and ice dams forming, running heating cable in problem areas seems like a great solution to melt the ice.

Heating cables melt channels through already formed ice dams to minimize ice build-up. Ideally, they can help snowmelt flow off your roof rather than pooling behind the dam. This can help prevent water from entering your roof deck and home. They are usually installed in patterns along the eaves, in roof valleys, around chimneys and skylights, and in gutters or downspouts. They can be a helpful tool when used as part of a comprehensive snow and ice removal plan to deal with roof leaks. They are particularly useful for very limited problem areas where you cannot address the underlying cause of ice dam formation. However, if you have widespread ice dams in your home, you likely have problems with your attic insulation, ventilation, or roof.

The most common areas of the home where ice dams form are

In valleys of the roof

On flat roofs

Around chimneys and skylights

At the eaves (by far the most common spot)

Heating cables are often the first things that come to mind for homeowners trying to deal with ice dams. First of all, it is very important to understand that heating cables do NOT prevent ice dam formation or eliminate it altogether. They merely melt channels through the ice dams formed to minimize the amount of debris and partially remove snow from the area. To prevent ice dams, you must address the root cause of the problem.

Advantages of installing heating cables

When installed properly and professionally, heating cables can be very useful in minimizing water accumulation behind ice dams. While not a permanent solution, they are a good choice when you need a quick fix. They are also much less expensive than sealing attic air leaks, installing proper insulation, and creating proper ventilation systems. The biggest benefit is the simple fact that heating cables protect your gutters from filling up with ice, breaking off and damaging your roof.

Disadvantages of installing heating cables

Heating cables require electricity to work. Leaving them on all winter is sure to increase your utility bills. You also need to monitor them to make sure they aren’t overheating or using more power than necessary. Heating cables can protect your home from ice damage, but they’re not pretty and can reduce curb appeal. Since they don’t address the underlying problem, this approach could become more expensive in the long run.

Most often, ice dams form due to poor attic insulation or ventilation, improper roof installation, or roof damage. All of these factors contribute to a roof that stays warmer than 30°F in freezing weather. Have a roofer do an energy audit before freezing and snowy weather sets in. Following their recommendations for reinforcing specific areas of your attic or roof insulation can make a world of difference in preventing ice dams. Subscribe to our blog for more tips on preparing and protecting your home for winter conditions!

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Ice dams, icicles, and snow loads may look nice, but they can cause significant problems for the rest of your home and property. Ice dams form when the melting snow does not flow off the roof into the gutters and instead freezes as the temperature drops. The ice blockage slows the additional melting, which allows water to get under the clapboards and seep into the top layer of your home.

In the past, ice dams would have been worked on with a shovel and ladder, which is quite dangerous and not recommended. Luckily, thanks to innovative professionals and DIYers, there are now better ways to deal with them. Some of the most popular options include roof de-icing cables, ice dam protection products, and roof de-icing systems. These help prevent problems on roofs and alleviate problems at eaves, valleys, drains and paths caused by ice and snow.

Looking for a home improvement company? Find out how much your project will cost No real zip code.

At Legacy Service, we provide roof installation and replacement services to homeowners throughout Southeast PA, NJ and DE. If your roof is damaged beyond repair or is showing its age, you should consider replacing it. Schedule a free estimate with one of our team members by contacting us today: https://legacyusa.com/contact/.

What can a de-icing roof system do for you?

Depending on where you live, a de-icing roof system can be very beneficial for your home. Roof de-icing cables are an effective and cost-effective solution when it comes to preventing ice dams. They are also easy to install. Cables are fastened above the eaves and usually also in the gutters and act by releasing heat to prevent melted snow from refreezing before it runs off the roof. Keep in mind that ice dams can still form, but will allow additional snow to melt, which will actually protect your roof from excessive ice and snow.

You can choose from the following de-icing systems for your roof:

Heat-tracing cable – A popular brand of heat-tracing cable is GutterMelt. This is a self-regulating or mineral insulated heating tape or track used to prevent ice dams. It helps keep water flowing on roofs and through gutters and pipes.

– A popular brand of heat-tracing cable is GutterMelt. This is a self-regulating or mineral insulated heating tape or track used to prevent ice dams. It helps keep water flowing on roofs and through gutters and pipes. Metal Roof Deicing – If you have a metal roof, consider a metal roof deicing system. This product is designed to solve ice dam and snow load problems for any metal roof.

– If you have a metal roof, you should consider a metal roof de-icing system. This product is designed to solve ice dam and snow load problems for any metal roof. Non-Metal Roof Deicing – This deicing system is installed under new or existing asphalt, tile and shingles. This makes it the ideal solution for conversions or new buildings.

– This de-icing system is installed under new or existing asphalt, tiles and shingles. This makes it the ideal solution for conversions or new buildings. Membrane Roof De-icing – This type of de-icing system is a covert solution used to control snow loads and drainage on your membrane roof. They are also used as roof de-icers.

– This type of de-icing system is a hidden solution used to control snow loads and drainage on your membrane roof. They are also used as roof de-icers. Deck Deicing Systems – This type of deicing system is used for various deck deicing applications.

– This type of deicing system is used for various ceiling deicing applications. You decide what works best for your home! Contact a roofing company for professional advice.

Cost of heated roof systems

Different types of heated roof systems have different costs. For example, the cost of installing roof deicing cables is different than the cost of installing heating tape or heated gutters. Let’s take a look at the installation costs for different types of systems:

Roof Deicer Cable – The average cost to install a heater cable on your roof or gutters typically ranges from $447 to $1,244. The price changes depending on the accessibility and size of the roof. Deicing cord, heating wire, and heating tape are all types of long, insulated products that melt ice from your roof.

– The average cost of installing a heating cable on your roof or gutters is usually between $447 and $1,244. The price changes depending on the accessibility and size of the roof. Deicing cord, heating wire, and heating tape are all types of long, insulated products that melt ice from your roof. Heater Tape – The cost of installing heater tape (also known as heating wire) varies from $12 to $20 per foot. It tends to vary depending on the difficulty of the project. If you have hard-to-reach areas, the cost of your project will most likely increase.

– The cost of installing heating tape (aka heating wire) varies from $12 to $20 per foot. It tends to vary depending on the difficulty of the project. If you have hard-to-reach areas, the cost of your project will most likely increase. Heated Gutters – The cost of installing a heated gutter system ranges from $430 to $4,000 depending on the size of your home. Installing a heated cable in your gutters (gutter deicing cable) is less expensive than installing a brand new heated system.

In the next section we take a look at the installation process for heated roof systems.

Installation of de-icing cables on the roof

Deicing roof cables are fairly easy to install. If you wish to do it yourself, it is recommended that you do your research and be fully prepared before beginning the process. It’s best to also have some installation experience under your belt. You might even want to grab a friend to help!

Eisband is a particularly user-friendly variant of the roof de-icing cable. The self-adhesive coil makes installation easy for someone comfortable on a ladder.

However, for the product to work, it must be installed correctly. If you have any doubts about the installation process, you should contact a contractor to do it for you.

Find the Qualified Home Improvement Dealer Not a real zip code.

How to use roof heating cable

You may be wondering when and how to use roof heating cable. Whether or not you need heating cables depends on the climate where you live. If you live in a warm climate where there is no snow or ice all year round, you don’t need them. But one more surprising fact: If the weather is too cold, you don’t need deicing cords either. These cables work best in “warm” cold weather, which is around -9°F. The reason for this is that ice dams are caused by snowmelt and therefore usually only form when the temperature is right around the freezing mark (32°F).

material list

Whether you plan to install the deicing system yourself or hire a professional to do it, it’s a good idea to know the list of materials used for the project. Here’s everything you need for the job:

roof clips

control panels

Power Connection Kits

downspout hanger

splice kits

fiberglass tape

end seals

thermostats

RTDs and other sensors

Before you start your electric heating cable project, make sure you have all the necessary materials together. If you are looking to replace your roof and add a heating system, please contact our Legacy Service team. We will provide you with a free estimate.

Roof Deicer Cable: Frequently Asked Questions

Ice cables, also known as roof de-icing cables, are the perfect solution to prevent snow and ice problems (especially ice dams) that could cause further damage to your roof. If you’re looking to install them in your home to help out during the winter season, you probably have a few questions.

Frequently asked questions about roof de-icing options

In this section we have answered some of the most common questions our team is asked about heating cables. Please read them to see if they answer any of your questions. If you want to replace your roof or facade, you can contact us to arrange a free consultation with one of our technicians.

How long should roof heating cables stay connected?

You should turn on your roof heating cables about an hour or two before snow is expected. This heats up the roof, allowing the snow to melt immediately. If the cables aren’t warm enough when the snow starts to fall, they can become overloaded and unable to catch up.

The cables should be left on while there is still a significant amount of snow on the roof. This depends on how much sunlight your roof receives. Some customers will be able to turn theirs off sooner than others. It is recommended that you observe how your roof performs during the first year to get a better idea later.

Can you leave heat tape plugged in?

Modern band heaters can stay plugged in if they have a built-in thermostat. The thermostat automatically turns on the power (and therefore the heating) when the temperature drops to freezing point and turns it off again when the temperature rises. Even when left plugged in, the bands don’t constantly draw current.

However, it is a good idea to ensure that the heat tape is properly installed and placed in a satisfactory location. If placed in the wrong place, it can stay wet year-round, causing cable insulation to crack and allowing moisture to penetrate.

When should you turn on roof heating cables?

Roof heating cables are designed to prevent the formation of ice dams. They work best if you turn them on about an hour or two before expected snowfall. This helps warm up the roof so the snow melts as soon as it falls on it.

Don’t worry if you’ve forgotten by then, though. Turning the heating cables on at all will prevent ice dam formation. It’s also best to leave them on until much of the snow has melted from your roof.

How much roof de-icing cable do I need?

You may need to use a roof deicer cord calculator to determine how much you need. In some of them you can enter the length of your roof, valley length, overhang width, roof type and the region you live in. Once you click calculate, you’ll be presented with the recommended cable length, bill of materials, and even potential cost.

You can also estimate it yourself. You must measure the eaves (edge ​​where the gutters attach) to determine the value of roof length.

As always, you can always consult a roofer if you are unsure of how much you need or how to install it.

Does heating tape use a lot of electricity?

The average heating tape draws power at six to nine watts per foot per hour. So if you have 100 feet of heating tape running 24/7, you can expect to add about $41 to $62 to your monthly electric bill.

Some systems are self-regulating, meaning they cycle on and off to minimize your electricity budget. However, this also means that they are more expensive to purchase and install. Ask your local contractor for details during the consultation when they install it for you.

Can heating tape cause a fire?

It depends on the type of heating tape you choose. Many of them can pose a potential fire hazard if not properly installed and used according to their instructions. For example, most cheap heating tapes can overheat and pose a real fire hazard if overlapped or insulated.

However, this can be prevented by using a quality heat tape, installing it correctly, and remaining vigilant throughout its lifespan. Contact your local roofer if you want to install heating tapes. At Legacy Service we offer roof replacements with snow and ice protection. To get started, all you have to do is give us a call.

Start your roof de-icing system today!

Winter is here, so now is the time to get started on your roof de-icing system before the next big blizzard hits. Whether you choose heating cable, heating tape, or some other method, you can rest assured that they will last for years with proper installation and maintenance.

At Legacy Service we offer all kinds of home services. Whether you need a roof covering for your house under construction, a siding replacement for a nicer and more durable house, or a window replacement to increase the energy efficiency of your home, you can contact our team. If we install or replace your roof, don’t forget to ask us about snow and ice protection.

Make sure the job is done right the first time with local outdoor professionals. We serve homeowners throughout PA, NJ and DE. Schedule a free estimate by either calling us at 215-798-9790 or contacting us here: https://legacyusa.com/contact/.