Heat Rock For Gecko? The 230 Detailed Answer

Many experienced reptile keepers will be quick to enthusiastically advise newcomers to avoiding heat rocks. Despite this common knowledge, however, they are still sold in stores and bought by the naïve new reptile owner. If Heat Rocks are supposed to be that bad, why are they still around? Could this be another misunderstanding of folklore attitude?

The answer is, they really are that bad. Here’s why:

First you need to know a little bit about how reptiles work:

Reptiles have an internal thermostat that dictates their behavior based on their current body temperature in relation to their metabolic needs. While they are commonly referred to as “ectotherms,” ​​it is more accurate to say that reptiles are poikilotherms. Unlike thermoconformers, which cannot control their body temperature at all and adopt the same temperature as their surroundings, reptiles actively control their body temperature, alternating between warm and cool zones to maintain a desired core temperature.

This optimal temperature varies depending on the animal species, current metabolic needs and health status. For example, a uromastyx has a higher optimum temperature than a crested gecko. Another example: A ball python that is digesting a meal is likely to maintain a higher temperature than one that is not.

Reptiles evolved to receive and use heat from the sun, either directly (sunspots) or indirectly (sun-warmed objects). In some cases, they get both at the same time, such as when they sit on a rock during the day. When they bask in a sunspot, they receive uniform heating in the form of deep-penetrating infrared-A and infrared-B from above.

When they “bask” on a sun-heated object at night, they absorb infrared-C thermal energy, which gradually cools as their body absorbs the heat. Infrared-C does not penetrate very deeply into animal tissues, making it a less efficient method of warming up the reptile, but most reptiles that rely on infrared-C (ambient heat) to warm up are smaller and/or nocturnal and/or have a lower optimal body temperature to reach.

What’s So Bad About Heat Stones?

Now that you understand a bit about how reptiles work, let’s talk about how heat stones interact with a reptile’s ability to thermoregulate.

Heat Rocks are artificial rocks with a heating coil inside that automatically shuts off when a certain surface temperature is reached. Sounds perfectly safe, doesn’t it? Well, it’s more complicated than that.

Heat stones produce infrared-C radiant heat, which, as mentioned earlier, does not penetrate very far into animal tissue. This means that when a reptile lies on a heat stone, only its skin gets hot and it’s up to its blood to carry the heat away from the skin and circulate it to the rest of the body. In other words, this heat is concentrated on the part of the reptile that is in direct contact with the heat stone, and this effect is magnified when the heat stone is smaller than the reptile’s body. When the air is cold, a reptile’s metabolism is slow, which means the heart beats slowly and the blood doesn’t move through the body very quickly. This means that when a cold reptile is lying on a heat stone, its blood may not be moving fast enough to carry heat away from the skin fast enough to prevent overheating. And that’s how burns happen.

This assumes that the heating stone in question is heated evenly and is functioning properly. However, just like with heating mats, hot spots can develop or the device can fail and overheat.

Shouldn’t reptiles be able to feel the pain of their own burning flesh?

Yes and no. The skin of reptiles perceives temperature differently than that of a human. While they can sense sudden, significant changes in temperature (touching a very hot or very cold object) and respond appropriately, they cannot feel their skin slowly warming or cooling. And even if the flesh on its belly starts to burn, the reptile will not move away from the heat stone unless the rest of the reptile’s body has reached the target heat temperature. They may not even realize that the heat stone is the cause of their pain.

This isn’t because reptiles are stupid, it’s because their bodies didn’t evolve to gather heat by sitting on small, hot surfaces that continuously generate heat, especially when the ambient air temperature is relatively low.

Is there a way to make Heat Rocks safe?

The short answer is that it’s best to avoid heat rocks altogether.

If you wish to provide “stomach warmth” to your reptile, use a heating pad that is larger than its body, connect this heating pad to a reliable thermostat and place the probe on the surface where the reptile is receiving the heat.

Better yet, mimic nature by placing a large, flat rock (such as a flagstone or slab of slate) under a halogen heat lamp so the reptile will lie on a warm surface and receive warm air and deep penetrating infrared A and – B

Already have a heat stone? Remove the cord and enjoy as a heat-free decoration.

Many leopard gecko owners face the problem of keeping the tank sufficiently warm. In this post, we will discuss how to tell if the leopard gecko tank is too cold, how to increase the temperature in a leopard gecko tank, optimal tank temperatures, leopard gecko cold tolerance, and insulating the UTH under the tank.

What are ideal temperatures in a leopard gecko tank?

The temperature on the ground on the warm side near a sun spot should be 88-92 degrees Fahrenheit (31.3-33.3 degrees Celsius).

near a sun spot should be 88-92 degrees Fahrenheit (31.3-33.3 degrees Celsius). Equal temperatures (88-92) should be right under a leopard gecko’s warm, dry skin.

. The air temperature 4-6 inches off the ground on the warm side should be 80-83 degrees F (26.6-28.3 degrees Celsius).

4-6 inches off the ground on the side should be 80-83 degrees F (26.6-28.3 degrees Celsius). The temperature in a leopard gecko’s wet fur must be between 28 and 32.2 degrees Celsius.

Inside a leopard gecko, it needs to be between 83 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (28 to 32.2 degrees Celsius). The air temperature 4-6 inches off the ground on the cool side should be 73-76 degrees Fahrenheit (22.7-24.4 degrees Celsius).

4-6 inches off the ground on the side should be 73-76 degrees Fahrenheit (22.7-24.4 degrees Celsius). The night temperature in the tank should be between 19.4 and 23 degrees Celsius.

the tank should be between 67 and 74 degrees Fahrenheit (19.4 to 23 degrees Celsius). Unless you are an experienced keeper wanting to induce brumation (breeding purposes), keep the winter temperature the same.

How do you monitor temperatures in a leopard gecko’s tank?

To monitor temperatures in a leopard gecko’s tank, place at least 2 thermometers in the tank. One should walk slightly off the ground on the warm side and 4-6 inches off the ground on the cool side. You also need to measure the temperature in the air temperature on the warm side.

Therefore, placing another thermometer 4-6 inches off the ground at the warm spot is very beneficial. If you can’t place 3 thermometers, place 2 and get another infrared gun thermometer to monitor temperatures in the skins and other spots of the tank.

An infrared gun thermometer

Be sure to choose a digital thermometer with such a probe. They are more accurate than analog thermometers. Also, infrared gun thermometers like this one are very accurate and easy to use (just point to get the temperature).

How do you heat a leopard gecko’s tank?

Leopard geckos are crepuscular, meaning they don’t need a bright or UVB light in the tank (although you could install a 2-5% UVB light).

To heat a leopard gecko’s tank you will need to place an under tank heater under the tank in the warm spot and optionally a heat emitting ceramic bulb on top if the tank does not get hot enough.

For the light, you can use a low-wattage incandescent bulb, e.g. B. a white incandescent lamp to mimic day and night. In the summer, turn the lights off to 14 hours of light instead of 10 hours.

Reduce to 10-12 hours on vs 12-14 hours off in winter. But that’s not necessary and the light from the windows might be enough for your leopard gecko to know when it’s day and night. This is more beneficial for dark rooms or for more inactive leopard geckos.

If your house is warm enough or you have a small tank, you may only need an under-tank heater (UTH). A heat dissipating ceramic bulb is only required in tanks larger than 20-30 gallons.

Leave UTH on for 24 hours and turn off the bulb for the night unless the mat is not heating the tank properly and it gets colder than 67 degrees F (19.4 degrees Celsius).

Here you will find a ceramic heat-emitting lightbulb. Make sure your leopard gecko can’t touch it – place it in an overhead light fixture like this one.

Leopard gecko heating mat

A heat mat is often the best way to keep a leopard gecko’s tank warm. A heating mat goes directly under the terrarium, below the warm part of the tank.

This is where your leopard gecko lies down in the warm hide to digest food by touching the ground with its abdomen. A heater mat is the best heating device for a leopard gecko’s tank with most substrates such as paper towels and carpet.

With ceramic tile substrate, you can have a ceramic lamp overhead that heats the ceramic tile. At the end of the day, your leopard gecko will come out and absorb the heat from the tiles.

That doesn’t mean you can turn it off overnight though – only if temperatures stay warm. Other substrates don’t really retain heat, so underfloor heating is a better choice.

Be careful with heat-emitting ceramic bulbs if you have a very small tank (e.g. 10 gallons) as they can get too hot. In general, a 10-gallon tank is far too small for an adult leopard gecko, and creating a temperature gradient in such a small tank is difficult if not impossible.

Summary: With a 20-30 gallon tank, you probably only need one UTH to heat the tank. If temperatures are still low and with larger tanks, get a ceramic heat-emitting bulb on the warm spot. Check temperatures with thermometers and infrared heat gun, and add another heat source if temperatures are still low.

Which watt heating mat for leopard gecko?

When choosing the wattage heating mat for a leopard gecko’s tank, it all depends on the size of the tank. For example, a heater mat that is suitable for the tank of a 10-20 gallon leopard gecko is an 8 watt, 8×6 inch mat.

If you have a 25-30 gallon tank, it is better to get a larger heater mat, e.g. B. 8″x12″. Heat mat size is often more important than wattage, and the larger the wattage, the larger the mat.

An under-tank heating mat should cover 1/3-1/2 of the surface area of ​​a leopard gecko’s tank and should be placed under the warm side of the terrarium to create a temperature gradient.

Calculate 1/3 to half the tank length and get the appropriate heating mat. It is better to place it in a corner (middle, top or bottom of a corner – everything is fine) to create a temperature gradient in a whole tank.

An 8″x 6″ under-tank heating mat can be found here. Please remember that the heating mat must be connected to such a thermostat in order to regulate the temperature as it can get too hot!

A thermostat has a probe that you need to place on the floor where the mat is underneath. The probe detects the temperatures and when the temperature rises above the maximum it turns off the heating.

Setting up a Leopard Gecko Heat Mat

Step number 1: Attachment. After purchasing a heating mat for your leopard gecko’s tank, you will need to install it. Please note that most of the heating mats you buy are self-adhesive.

This means that it will stick permanently to the tank and you should not move it once it is set up or you will damage the heating element inside. A heating mat should be placed under the tank, under the warm spot of the tank and it should cover 1/3-1/2 of the tank.

If you want to permanently attach the heating mat to the tank, stick it to a corner that will later be a warm side of the tank. A heat mat also has rubber feet that raise the bottom of the heat mat off the floor to allow airflow. Without airflow, the bottom of the tank will crack.

If you want to attach the heating mat without a sticker, attach it with a heat-resistant adhesive tape, e.g. B. Gaffer or aluminum tape.

Step number 2: Connecting the heating mat to a thermostat. After installing the heating mat, make sure to connect it to a thermostat. Then place the probe of a thermostat directly on the bottom of the tank where the heating mat is underneath.

You can get underfloor heating with a thermostat here.

Leopard gecko shell isn’t hot enough

Have you tried everything and the tank is still cold? There may be few reasons for this. Let’s discuss some tips and tricks you can do to make the leopard gecko tank hotter.

Is your house very cold? If this occurs, move a tank to a warmer location or use a heat mat and heat-emitting ceramic bulb, but only for tanks 20-25 gallons or larger.

If an under-tank heater isn’t getting warm enough, it may be defective. Most under-tank heaters can heat up to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, so check to make sure the mat is working properly.

Most owners have a glass tank for their leopard geckos. Glass terrariums don’t retain heat well, so consider covering or laying on top of the heating mat with a heat-resistant and fireproof material such as Styrofoam. Don’t forget to raise the tank 2 inches off the ground for airflow.

You can also isolate UTH under a leopard gecko’s tank. Place some aluminum foil (shiny side up) between the table/stand and the UTH. The foil with the shiny side up should be on the bottom of the UTH and will help retain and conduct heat upwards.

Are you sure you’re checking the tank bottom temperature? This is where the tank is hottest and deviates from the air temperature.

Have a large leopard gecko tank that is 40 gallons or larger? In this case, you will need to use a larger heating mat and a heat-emitting ceramic bulb. For extra large tanks you will probably need to use a heating cable instead of a pad and secure it with aluminum tape.

Leopard gecko feels cold?

Some owners become anxious because their leopard gecko feels cold to the touch. Thing is, leopard geckos are cold-blooded lizards and ecotherms. This means they rely on outside heat to stay warm. Unless your leopard gecko was lying on the hot spot, you might feel cold when you pick it up.

This is because the human body temperature is around 97-98 degrees (36.6 degrees Celsius), making leopard geckos cool-chill to the touch. Your body temperature depends on where you’ve been and may feel different to you at different times. If the temperature in the tank is optimal, you shouldn’t worry too much about it.

Leopard gecko cold tolerance

Leopard geckos are cold-blooded lizards and need external heat to survive or they will die. Their preferred body temperature is around 30 degrees Celsius.

Depending on a situation — like shipping or a power outage — your leopard gecko can survive a few days without heat if the room temperature is at least 60 degrees (15.5 degrees Celsius).

When shipping in extreme cold, a long shipment could kill your leopard gecko, but insulation and heat packs should help keep the box warm.

Thanks for reading this post and check out the complete guide to setting up lighting, heating and humidity in a leopard gecko tank here.

How can you tell if your leopard gecko is cold and are there any associated risks? What temperature is too cold for Leo and what measures should you take if your enclosure is too cold. Get the answers and advice you need to ensure Leo stays safe and healthy all year round.

Prolonged cold spells can be detrimental to a leopard gecko’s digestion, growth, immune system, and overall health. Leopard geckos rely on their environment for temperature control. Proper enclosure setup and plans for power outages and seasonal changes keep Leo safe and healthy.

What happens when a leopard gecko gets too cold?

Leopard geckos cannot regulate their body heat without an external heat source, so they are forced to change their behavior to cope with the energy shortage.

Drastic behavior changes and health concerns can arise that can be life-threatening to your lion if left uncorrected. If leopard geckos respond to touch, they should be fine; If you don’t respond, the issue may be more worrisome and require immediate attention.

Leo’s movements are slower.

Cold temperatures will slow down your leopard gecko’s internal processes and make its movement slower. Not only do you move less, you sleep more often. You will usually find them resting in their hides where it is warmer and safer.

Leopard geckos instinctively hide when they are cold as they would not have the energy to outrun their enemies or hunt for their prey in the wild.

Digestive and impaction problems

In an ideal environment, your leopard gecko would move between the warmer and cooler areas of your enclosure to maintain the perfect temperature for digestion.

A typically cold environment affects Leo’s ability to digest efficiently and appropriately. Digestive issues deprive Leo of the nutrients and energy he needs to stay healthy and active and, if persistent, can lead to illness or death.

Digestive issues can also affect Leo’s ability to eliminate waste and lead to Impact. It’s possible to correct the impaction by giving your gecko a warm bath and abdominal massage, but severe cases may require veterinary attention or surgery.

Decreased appetite and risk of dehydration

Leo’s sluggish behavior when it’s cold will also reduce his appetite. Because they move less and sleep more, they eat less and prefer to use up their fat and energy stores. This lack of food and nutrients can negatively impact the lion’s growth rate.

As with brumation, lion can use all of the fat stores in their tails to survive longer when hiding or resting in prolonged cold temperatures. Eating or digesting is considered too much high-energy activity.

In severe cases, lions can develop stick tail disease, in which tail stores are depleted and the tail looks more like a stick than a tail. This is a sign of significant weight loss and requires professional veterinary attention.

Leo can also stop drinking when he’s cold, leading to dehydration and related elimination issues if continued for long periods of time.

respiratory infections

Leo is more prone to respiratory infections in a cold environment.

If Leo is acting more lethargically, losing weight quickly, or breathing with his mouth open, you may need to see an exotics vet to rule out an infection. Bubbling saliva in your gecko’s mouth is another less common symptom to watch out for.

Your lion will be frequently treated with antibiotics and probiotics and should recover over time. If it becomes severe, supplemental hydration or assisted feeding may need to be administered by a professional veterinarian. An untreated respiratory infection can be life-threatening.

Leo is hypothermic

Your Leo should only suffer from hyperthermia in extremely cold conditions. This probably won’t happen in your usual case environment, even in colder situations.

The symptoms of a hypothermic lion would be similar to a cold lion, but would be more severe.

Your leopard gecko is sedentary, inactive, and may not move at all. You may notice Leo lying on his stomach for long periods of time or showing signs of disorientation. Weight loss, sunken or closed eyes, stuck scales, and not eating or drinking would be other signs of hypothermia.

Hypothermia is extremely dangerous for leopard geckos, and if left untreated or conditions not addressed quickly, Leo can die an agonizing death.

Is Leo cold when he feels cold?

Numerous lion owners mistakenly assume that because they are cold-blooded creatures, their lion should always feel cold to the touch.

Leo’s preferred body temperature is around 86 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius), and if you touch your Leo and it feels cold, the tank temperature may very well be too cold. The lion’s body temperature adjusts to that of its surroundings and is a reasonable indication of whether it is hot or cold.

The cool side of your leopard gecko tank should be around 73 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 26 degrees Celsius) and 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (26 to 29 degrees Celsius in the warmer enclosure area). Maintaining this pool temperature ensures that Leo is not too cold or too hot.

How long can lion survive the cold?

This question is a common concern for new Leo owners, especially if they face power outages or extreme weather conditions.

Leopard geckos can tolerate the cold for up to a month if temperatures stay above 15 degrees Celsius and they have enough tail fat reserves. Temperatures below that would certainly result in serious illness and death.

How to protect Leo from the cold

Invest in up to 3 thermometers and a thermostat and heat mat to regulate the heat in Leo’s enclosure.

A thermometer near the bottom of the pen and thermometers 4 to 5 inches off the ground on the warm and cooler sides of the pen will help you monitor Leo’s surroundings and adjust your thermostat setting if necessary.

In colder weather, a larger case may require a larger heater mat or heat-dissipating ceramic bulb. It may also be helpful to move your enclosure to a warmer part of your home during the winter.

Investing in a generator as a backup power source is extremely valuable and reduces anxiety. The use of heat packs, hand warmers, or heated water bottles is not recommended unless you are experienced in using them, as it may result in gecko burns or injury. Transport Leo’s enclosure to your heated car or a friend’s house for a few hours.

In extreme cases, keeping Leo in your hands and close to you can help to hold his warmth in the short term.

Final Thoughts

Leo can withstand the cold for a short time, although not to the extreme. Prolonged exposure to a cold environment will adversely affect your leopard gecko’s health and, in extreme circumstances, can lead to hypothermia or death.

Regularly monitor tank temperature and Leo behavior, and plan for power outages or extreme weather conditions. Leo will recover quickly if temperature issues are addressed promptly and veterinary advice is sought.

Imagine your leopard gecko is cut off from its heat supply – all due to a power outage caused by a really bad storm. Imagine the power outage lasts a few days and temperatures start to drop. Now you’re wondering… How long can leopard geckos go without heat?

How long can leopard geckos go without heat? Leopard geckos can survive a few days without heat, but only if the room temperature stays above 60°F. Lions can tolerate temperatures of at least 60°F. Lions are at risk of health, even death, when exposed to temperatures below 60°F for long periods of time.

Lions need warmth to survive, and it’s best to avoid a situation where your leopard gecko is without warmth. Extreme temperatures are detrimental to leopard geckos and will definitely not produce positive results.

Read on to learn more about the temperature your lion can tolerate and what to do in an emergency.

How long can leopard geckos go without heat?

Leopard geckos originate from dry, arid areas and are used to very hot weather.

Leopard geckos are cold-blooded, small creatures that absorb heat from their external environment. Your body relies on heat that is supplied from the outside.

In the wild, lions absorb heat from the sun-warmed rocks. In a cage, lions receive heat from heater mats, CHEs, and UVB bulbs. Using all of these devices will simulate your lion’s natural environment.

Leopard geckos in the wild sometimes slow down and brumate during the winter months. Brumation, particularly in leopard geckos and other reptiles, is the mammalian equivalent of hibernation.

When the temperature drops for an extended period of time, leopard geckos slow down, suffer brumation, and survive on fat stored in their tails.

Leopard geckos can potentially survive at least a month without heat. They survive on their tail fat reserves, provided temperatures are kept in the normal 60°F range.

Of course you should not test this theory! In addition, extremely low temperatures can have serious consequences for your lion.

Possible health risks

If your leopard gecko is exposed to cold temperatures for too long, the following health risks are likely:

1. Stick tail disease

This disease refers to rapid weight loss in leopard geckos, which can be caused by low temperatures, among other things. The fat stores in their tails are reduced up to the vertebrae until they resemble stick-like tails.

Rapid weight loss in geckos requires immediate professional help to determine the cause and necessary treatment. Be prepared that fecal and blood samples may be taken from your Leo to determine the cause.

2. Impaction

An impaction occurs when an obstruction in a leopard gecko’s stomach or intestines cannot be passed and its digestive system is not functioning properly. Lions that are constantly exposed to the cold have problems with their digestive system.

Impaction can be treated with a warm bath and gently massaging your lion’s abdomen. A drop of olive oil or mineral oil can also be given orally to help. A visit to the vet is mandatory if the obstruction is not resolved, and surgery may even be required to save the lion’s life.

3. Respiratory infection

Prolonged exposure to cold temperatures puts your lion at risk of respiratory infection. If your lion seems lethargic, is breathing with his mouth open, and has blocked nostrils, he may have a respiratory infection.

Weight loss, loss of appetite and salivating are other symptoms.

You should see a vet immediately as respiratory infections are bacterial infections that require both antibiotics and a probiotic to clear them. Lions recovering from respiratory infections may need extra hydration and feeding assistance.

These health risks are very likely if your leopard gecko is exposed to cold temperatures for long periods of time.

contingency planning

Any leopard gecko owner should have a contingency plan in place, especially if you live in extremely cold weather conditions and are prone to power outages. You will have your Leo’s best interests in mind by developing an appropriate plan.

Leopard geckos don’t respond very well to cold temperatures. You may find that their bodies move slowly and sluggishly, they exercise less, their appetites are reduced, they don’t drink water, and they tend to sleep more until temperatures rise again.

There are a few steps you can take to keep your Leo warm during extended power outages.

A generator as an additional power source should definitely be considered. Backup generators are a fantastic option and one of the best things you can implement for your Leo.

If you have frequent power outages or your Leos are housed separately in a family home, generators are a must!

In the event of a momentary power outage, you don’t have to worry too much about hypothermia. Hypothermia in lions is relatively rare. Drowsiness and a normal growl are normal for your Leo when the temperature is low.

If your Leo responds to touch, they are fine. On the other hand, if your Leo doesn’t respond to stimuli, you would have to be a little concerned. Loss of the ability to climb and cling, or a disoriented gecko is a concern and professional help should be sought.

Actions to avoid in your contingency plan

Heat packs or hand warmers should be avoided as your lion could suffer horrible burns and even die if they come in direct contact with them.

Fireplaces should be avoided as this could potentially damage your lion’s cage, expose them to extreme heat, burn them and suffer from extreme heat stress.

Plastic bottles filled with warm water is common advice that should not be followed. The risk of respiratory infection is indeed increased as the bottle could be spilled in the cage and the bedding could be doused.

Expected Power Loss

You can prepare for an expected power failure as follows:

1. Adjust feeding

You should avoid feeding your leopard gecko 24 hours before an expected decline in performance. When temperatures drop, food cannot be processed in the gut, leading to illness and death.

2. Clean bowls and fill with water

Clean water should be provided. Enough water should be bottled and reserved for a few weeks as pipes could freeze and burst, also the water supply could be contaminated during a flood. Tap water should not be used during a power outage.

3. Additional beds

You can add more substrate to the cage to help retain heat and keep the cage warmer a little longer. Your lion will also be able to burrow to better regulate temperature rather than being left uncovered.

4. Put the cage in a limited space

Placing the cage in a narrower space such as a closet or bathroom will retain heat longer than a larger space.

5. Increase thermostat

If you increase the temperature on the thermostat by 1 to 3 degrees before the power failure and remove the programmed temperature drop, the cage will stay warm longer after the power failure. You can also leave the lights on overnight for extra warmth.

6. Use a candle space heater

In special cases where your leopard gecko is sensitive to temperature, not feeling well, or if the temperature is below freezing, you can make a candle heater.

Candle space heaters should be placed in an enclosed space out of reach of children and other pets. It is the safest means of maintaining heat during a power outage, but should only be used when necessary.

beginning of the power outage

Immediately after a power outage, you should turn off all electrical equipment to prevent possible light bulb explosion due to a power surge when power is restored.

You can place towels or blankets over your cage to retain heat after the lights are put aside.

In the first 12 hours after a power outage, your leopard gecko should cool down, but you should do nothing and avoid uncovering the cage to retain heat.

After 12 hours to 3 days of power outage there is no need to worry and you can top up water once a day, check for wet substrate and also check on your lion to make sure he is alright.

Do this as quickly as possible to prevent more heat from escaping and creating a stressful environment.

After more than 3 days, or if your Leo is a little stressed, you can use body heat, lukewarm water, indirect heat from a fireplace, or heat from a car to warm them up.

After the power returns, you can turn on all heat sources and gradually warm up your Leo if he has experienced extreme cold. The food should be reintroduced slowly once your lion is active.

You should also monitor your Leo to see if he is showing any symptoms of a respiratory infection and seek treatment immediately if it is obvious.

Conclusion

Leopard geckos can survive a few days without heat provided the temperature stays constant at 60°F.

Be careful to avoid extremely cold temperatures as this can be detrimental to your lion’s health and even fatal. Luckily, there are things you can do to help retain heat when you’re stuck in a cold disaster.

Many novice and even advanced reptile keepers take time to understand their lizards’ activities and behaviors and what they mean. In this post, we will talk about leopard gecko body language, 14 different behaviors and their reasons. Leopard geckos are curious and fun reptiles, and it’s always interesting to see them do different things. By understanding leopard geckos’ behavior, you can learn more about their intentions, problems, and even emotions!

Why does a leopard gecko dig?

Leopard gecko may dig for a variety of reasons. The most common reason a leopard gecko digs is because it’s instinct – they dig if they want to fit in and hide there. Leopard geckos will dig when only loose substrate is available. Both males and females will dig and this is normal.

Female leopard geckos will also dig when pregnant or pregnant. A week or a few days before oviposition, she begins searching for a nesting site to lay eggs.

For this reason, it is important that you create a nest site or two with loose substrate. She will find that she is actively digging there in order to later lay her eggs slightly buried in the substrate. She will also dig while laying eggs.

As long as your leopard gecko is eating well and defecating, you shouldn’t be concerned about digging behavior.

Why does a leopard gecko climb onto the tank glass? Also called “wall surfing”.

There’s nothing wrong with your leopard gecko trying to climb the glass. There can be a few reasons why a leopard gecko climbs onto the glass.

One of them is when the tank is too small and there is not enough space to explore. So it’s trying to get out there and see what’s out there. Some leopard geckos are uncomfortable in a 10 gallon tank or smaller. Switching to a larger tank might fix the problem. An adult leopard gecko needs a tank that holds at least 15-20 gallons.

enough space to explore. So it’s trying to get out there and see what’s out there. Some leopard geckos are uncomfortable in a 10 gallon tank or smaller. Switching to a larger tank might fix the problem. An adult leopard gecko needs a tank that holds at least 15-20 gallons. Another reason for wall surfing can be a lack of terrarium furniture for your leopard gecko to climb on and it could get bored. Add some accessories and see if it gets better.

Another possible reason can also be a breeding interest – your leopard gecko may want to escape to find a potential mate.

Leopard geckos don’t understand that glass is the barrier, so they try to “break” it. Don’t worry about this behavior, it’s part of a learning and acclimatization process. Most leopard geckos try to get through the glass and then stop trying after a while.

Some terrarium settings may be wrong. If the tank is too hot and there is no temperature gradient, your leopard gecko may try to escape. Humidity and bright light can also stress your leopard gecko.

If you keep several leopard geckos together, one of them might feel threatened and try to flee. Watch them closely and separate them to avoid mishaps.

Why does a leopard gecko flick its tongue?

Leopard geckos often flick their tongues and this is normal behavior. This is actually a sign that your leopard gecko is healthy, active, and curious – it uses its tongue to learn about its surroundings. A leopard gecko will flick its tongue to taste food, substrate, and even terrarium accessories. It’s also normal for your leopard gecko to lick your hand when you’re handling it.

The thing is, leopard geckos have a Jacobson’s gland that helps them detect not only taste, but whether the object is alive. So tasting helps them learn about the environment they live in and new things they see.

Why do leopard geckos bite each other’s tails?

Leopard geckos living in the same tank may compete with each other. Seeing leopard geckos biting each other’s tails is a sign of dominance. Leopard geckos will attempt to dominate and tail biting is a warning sign.

If this happens, house each leopard gecko separately, otherwise they could hurt each other when you’re not around. Both men and women can do it at any age.

This can happen when you introduce a new gecko to the tank – and others may not accept it. Another time tail biting can occur is when leopard geckos are mating.

Leopard gecko makes squeaky/chirping sounds and noises

Leopard geckos are often quiet and make no noise at all. But sometimes you might hear them squeak or chirp, but what does that mean?

Your leopard gecko has a voice. And when it makes those noises, it wants to warn you that it’s uncomfortable, anxious, or unhappy with what you’re doing. Both young and adult leopard geckos can do it. They usually do if you handle them.

Why does a leopard gecko hide in a hideout all the time?

New owners might be concerned if their leopard gecko is in a hideout for most of the day. But spending most of the day in hiding can be normal because leopard geckos are crepuscular reptiles. This means they often go dormant during the day (it gets very hot in their natural habitat) and come out in the evening – at dawn and dusk.

But there may be other reasons why your leopard gecko is constantly hiding. If it’s been in hiding for more than a day, something might be wrong.

You have just brought your leopard gecko home and it is not yet comfortable with its surroundings.

Temperatures in the tank can be too hot, lights can be very bright and humidity levels can be too low/too high. Check if everything is set correctly.

Your leopard gecko might be sick. It may be infected with parasites or have other problems. Look at your leopard gecko and see if anything looks unusual – tail shape, is your leopard gecko skinny, any wounds, what does feces look like?

Leopard gecko tail wags and shakes reasons and meanings

Leopard gecko slowly wagging its tail – this means your leopard gecko is on the hunt. You may notice your young or even an adult gecko doing this if they chase after crickets or other insects while feeding. It raises its tail and then slowly moves it from side to side.

– this means your leopard gecko is on the hunt. You may notice your young or even an adult gecko doing this if they chase after crickets or other insects while feeding. It raises its tail and then slowly moves it from side to side. When a leopard gecko quickly shakes the tip of its tail – a very common behavior just before attacking prey.

– very common behavior just before attacking a prey. Leopard gecko has a standing tail – it does it to deter predators or when stressed. You should not touch your leopard gecko when it is raising its tail and moving it from side to side. Try to approach the tank slowly and after a while put your hand down in the terrarium. Your gecko should calm down and understand that you are not trying to threaten him. It could also be hiding or coming to lick your hand to learn more about you.

– it does it to deter predators or when stressed. You should not touch your leopard gecko when it is raising its tail and moving it from side to side. Try to approach the tank slowly and after a while put your hand down in the terrarium. Your gecko should calm down and understand that you are not trying to threaten him. It could also be to learn more about you. Your leopard gecko might also quickly shake or wag its tail in the presence of a female. This is part of breeding behavior and the male wants to show that he has seen and acknowledged a female.

. This is part of breeding behavior and the male wants to show that he has seen and acknowledged a female. Leopard geckos may feel threatened or insecure around you or another reptile in the tank. The usual behavior in these situations is to approach the ground, raise the tail and slowly move it from side to side.

Don’t try to touch your leopard gecko when it’s wagging its tail (not to be confused with excitedly wagging its tail during the meal). Your leopard gecko is probably very stressed and may bite you. Let him calm you down and only then approach his tank.

Why does a leopard gecko lick its mouth?

You may notice your leopard gecko opening its mouth wide and licking its mouth and food more than usual. If your leopard gecko cannot hold the food in its mouth or is having a hard time, it can be a sign of a problem.

This can be a symptom of weak jaws that develop with calcium deficiency and MBD. Try feeling the leopard gecko’s jaws very lightly to see if they feel soft and spongy.

Another reason a leopard gecko might lick its lips is because of mouth rot or abscesses. Examine the leopard gecko’s mouth to see if there is any redness or sores. Mouth rot is painful and your leopard gecko might have trouble feeding.

Leopard gecko sleeping with one eye open

Sometimes you may see your leopard gecko sleeping with one eye open. This is normal behavior and you should not worry about it. If they don’t keep their eyes closed during the day, it’s not a sign of a problem.

Leopard gecko always poops in the same place

One very good trait of leopard geckos is that they will choose a spot or two to defecate on regularly. This is very good behavior as it makes cleaning easier. Leopard geckos are defecatory, meaning they choose a spot to poop regularly.

How can you tell if your leopard gecko is happy?

Your leopard gecko needs to be happy being active, climbing branches and rocks, eating and pooping regularly. A healthy leopard gecko will also sleep during the day, using its hiding places when necessary and not trying to escape.

Happy leopard geckos like to hunt, explore, and walk slowly around the tank. You could also choose a spot to bask and lie down on flat surfaces to absorb heat.

Why is my leopard gecko suddenly becoming aggressive?

If your female leopard gecko suddenly becomes aggressive toward you and other geckos, she may be a “hot lady.” Hot females are often mean and aggressive – they will try to attack you while you are feeding and have a breeding problem.

Hot females are believed to be produced when incubated at higher temperatures. But in reality, some leopard geckos might be more aggressive than others, including females.

Another reason leopard geckos can be aggressive is improper tank temperatures. Very cold temperatures are likely to make your leopard gecko angry and lethargic.

If the temperature is too high, a leopard gecko will try to hide a lot and climb the jar to escape.

The breeding season can make leopard geckos aggressive. Males will be aggressive with each other and can fight.

What is the breeding behavior of leopard geckos?

During the breeding season, leopard geckos can become more active and even more aggressive. Males become more active and angry as they search for a mate. Common and common breeding behaviors in leopard geckos include tail wagging and vibrating, pacing and chasing after a female and attempting to approach her.

Males become territorial and fight with other males. Even women will compete with each other and try to show dominance.

There is often one alpha female in a group and few females can reject another female. Therefore, it is always a good idea to introduce females to each other at a young age, before sexual maturity (about 40 grams).

Why does a leopard gecko water?

Soaking is normal for leopard geckos and helps in shedding the skin. But if you notice your leopard gecko doing this too often, it could be a sign of one or more problems.

If your leopard gecko is drenching a lot, it may mean that it is having trouble molting, is trying to cool off in a hot tank, or is trying to get rid of something in its skin (e.g. mites).

It can also mean that the molting box isn’t moist enough or that your leopard gecko is dehydrated. Be sure to check these factors if soaking happens too often.

Thank you for reading this post! Be sure to read our next post on leopard geckos, where we cover leopard gecko shedding and tail injuries.

Rocks are an important part of any reptile’s life. They provide a sense of security, hiding places and also help regulate your reptile’s body temperature.

Although the type of suitable stones can vary, it doesn’t matter if you have lizards, snakes, turtles, fish, frogs or toads. The procedure for cleaning the rocks for your vivarium is the same!

Stones can harbor bacteria, viruses, pathogenic fungi, and parasites that can cause problems for your pet and eventually lead to illness.

Therefore, it is really important to thoroughly clean the stones you bring from the forest, field, garden or beach before putting them in contact with your pet.

These risks can be minimized by properly disinfecting stones before placing them in your terrarium.

So what are the best ways to disinfect rocks for a terrarium?

Here is my favorite way to clean rocks for my reptiles:

1. Scrub the stone thoroughly with regular tap water and vinegar or soap – no harsh chemicals needed in most cases!

2. Rinse the stone with clean tap water.

3. Put the stone in boiling water for at least 10 minutes. Make sure the entire stone is covered, or use a lid (the steam will do the job).

4. Remember to let it cool down before putting it in the cage.

This method is simple and enough to kill 99% of all bugs hiding in most rocks. However, if you want to be 100% sure that there is nothing living left in the rocks you collect for your pets, you can use more efficient methods like kiln sterilization (see below!).

Some people buy rocks from pet stores to use in their reptile’s habitat. These stones are usually disinfected before sale.

However, some stones may have been close to other animals in the store or had contact with staff who were caring for sick animals. To ensure your reptiles have a safe environment, you must disinfect the stones yourself.

While the general method listed above is fine for most stones, find it out in nature. Not all stones can handle the rough process of cooking for 10 minutes without stopping.

If you wish to sterilize fragile rocks such as siltstone, sandstone, mudstone or lava rock they may find it difficult to withstand boiling and you should opt for kiln sterilization as detailed below.

How do you sterilize lava rocks?

Different stones have different properties and some are more fragile or porous than others. Lava rocks are particularly porous, which may require extra care when disinfecting for your pet!

I admit it – lava rocks look really cool in any terrarium or aquarium!

However, due to the porous nature of lava rock, it requires extra care when sterilizing for use in your pet enclosure.

Although lava rock can be relatively fragile, extra care must be taken to thoroughly clean every small tunnel of porous rock.

Soils harboring fungal spores can be hidden in the porous lava rock and therefore need to be treated fairly harshly. Because of this, properly cleaning the most fragile lava rocks can be a challenge, but I’ll try to explain how I do it.

In general, boiling isn’t enough to kill fungal spores, so you’ll either need higher temperatures or more harsh chemicals.

Using chemicals, one solution is to thoroughly soak the lava rock in either bleach or hydrogen peroxide overnight.

Be sure to shake the stones and turn them a few times to allow the liquid to reach all the pores of the stones.

However, this method does not 100% kill any spores that may be hiding in the deepest cavities of the rocks, so you may prefer to expose the rocks to higher temperatures in an oven.

How are stones sterilized in the oven?

The oven is a great way to sterilize stones. However, there are some challenges to consider!

The oven is in many ways the most efficient way to sterilize stones, as it can reach temperatures much higher than boiling water, which no living organism can survive.

As for how to clean and sterilize stones for your pet in the oven, the methodology is not much different from sterilizing equipment in a microbiological laboratory.

I follow this protocol when I want to sterilize stones in the oven:

1. Make sure your stones are COMPLETELY dry before placing them in the oven.

2. Place your rocks on a baking sheet with a few inches of space between each rock.

3. Turn the temperature up to 200°C (392°F).

4. Allow the stones to autoclave dry for 1 hour (a fancy word for ‘bake’ that we microbiologists use).

5. Turn off the oven and make sure the stones have cooled (about 1-2 hours depending on the size of the stones).

The downside to using the stove is that it doesn’t really remove any dirt and dust that may be present and can even change the color of the stone surface as the dust is burned off.

Another risk to consider is the possibility of air or water being trapped within the rock and expanding when heated to high temperatures.

If a stone is not completely dry in the oven, there is a risk that the stone will break and, in the worst case, explode!

Is a pressure cooker good for sterilizing stones?

A pressure cooker can cook the stones at higher temperatures to ensure they are 100% sterile.

One way to avoid the risk of breaking rocks is to use a pressure cooker instead of an oven. A pressure cooker has the advantage of keeping the pressure high while still reaching high temperatures, typically up to 120°C (248°F).

Such high temperatures kill all living organisms, and the steam and water in the pressure cooker ensure that every part (inside and outside) of the rock has been reached.

For the pressure cooker, I usually add just enough water to go a quarter of the way to the lid, then place the rocks in the pressure cooker.

Just make sure the water doesn’t dry out before the process is complete.

The actual program is no different than what you would use when cooking. For rocks, I recommend 15 minutes at 248°F (120°C). We use it to sterilize devices in the laboratory in the autoclave (fantasy word for large pressure cooker) and it works.

The downside of the pressure cooker, and why people generally recommend the oven instead, is the amount of rocks you can usually put in it. A standard kitchen pressure cooker only holds a few medium or one large stone at a time, while the oven usually gets the job done in one go.

And as always, you have to be careful when using a pressure cooker, so I don’t recommend this method unless you have previous experience with pressure cooking.

The protocols shown here are only relevant for stone, and for other materials such as wood or soil you will need to use the other gentler cleaning methods detailed in this post on using wood safety for reptiles and in this post on soil sterilization for vivariums.

Can I use outside rocks on my bearded dragon?

Yes, you can use outside bricks if you carefully follow my instructions given above. In short, you must wash and sterilize the stones to ensure they are safe for your bearded dragon.

Bearded dragons love to climb rocks. They need something in their enclosure that can absorb the heat from the heat lamp and pass it on to the reptile.

Bearded dragons make great pets as they don’t require a lot of grooming and their environment generally doesn’t require a lot of attention.

However, bearded dragons need a natural or artificial habitat. Stones are often a good choice and are commonly used for this purpose.

So if you follow the instructions given here, you should be ready to collect and safely place rocks in your bearded dragon enclosure.

Conclusions

Reptiles are one of the most common pet species in homes today, with over 50 species kept in reptiles nationwide, and they each have their own unique susceptibility to outside germs.

Reptiles are fascinating creatures, but sometimes they can be quite expensive, so be careful not to kill them with a dirty enclosure right away.

Because they could lick new stones and even drool or lose their tails due to any foreign germs that may be present – make sure you use good and clean materials for your reptile or amphibian enclosure!

Decorating your own pet enclosure can be a rewarding experience, but doing it in a safe way for your pet should be your main priority, and hopefully this article has shown you how to do it!

Choosing a substrate can be one of the more confusing aspects of setting up a leopard gecko tank. There is much debate as to what substrates are safe and best suited for your specific age and size of a gecko.

Paper towels, while not as attractive in a terrarium as some other options, are one of the most popular substrates available. For hatchlings and hatchlings (less than a year old), paper towels may be the best choice of substrate. For adults, you have more choices, but with all the recommendations, it can be confusing to make a decision. Here’s a rundown of some options to choose from (and some to avoid).

paper towels

As previously mentioned, paper towels are one of the best substrates for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sick geckos), but they can also be used for an adult leopard gecko. With paper towels, you don’t have to worry about swallowing or inhaling a substrate, and they’re highly absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean, reducing the risk of illness. It also makes health monitoring (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.

The downside to paper towels is that your gecko can’t burrow into them, and they aren’t natural in their natural habitats. If your gecko doesn’t like to dig and you’re not concerned about a natural-looking environment, consider using paper towels as a substrate for your leopard gecko.

sand

Sand is where the substrate debate gets heated. Sand is considered unsafe by some due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either from accidental ingestion or intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs). Sand ingestion is a greater risk for juveniles, so using sand with juvenile geckos is not usually recommended. Other potential problems with sand include dust, which can cause breathing problems, and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand. Still, some keepers prefer sand as a substrate because of the ease of scooping out the waste, the natural look, and leopard geckos’ ability to bury their bodies in it.

Healthy adult geckos with proper supplementation are less likely to ingest sand. If you decide to use sand, only use it with healthy adult geckos (never juvenile geckos or sick geckos). Choose a fine-grain sand. To reduce the chance of ingestion, feed your gecko in a different enclosure with a paper towel to reduce ingestion of sand particles. Calcium-based sand is claimed to be digestible, but digests too slowly to be considered a fail-safe option. Any kind of ingested sand can cause an intestinal obstruction that will require a visit to the vet, if not surgery. Provide calcium in the form of a multivitamin to meet calcium needs (to prevent MBD).

Feeding prey items in a bowl can also reduce the likelihood of ingestion. If sand appears during a bowel movement, you should stop using sand immediately as this is an indicator that your gecko is ingesting it. Also watch for signs of obstruction, which may indicate the need for an urgent visit to the vet. These signs include a decreased appetite, a decrease in bowel movements, lethargy, and dark spots on the abdomen (impacted sand in the intestines visible through the skin).

Pete Rowbottom/Getty Images

paper

Like paper towels, paper sheets are basic but safe and make cleaning your leopard gecko’s cage easy. You can get brown butcher paper or plain newsprint quite cheaply and just replace the substrate when it gets dirty.

Shredded paper bedding is also available and is usually safe for leopard geckos to burrow in. They don’t pick up paper litter often, but when they do, the paper used becomes very soft and should pass your gecko with no problem.

Indoor/outdoor or reptile carpet

This is also easy to clean and poses a small risk of choking (watch out for loose threads that could potentially choke or pinch a leg), but some rugs can be a little rough for gecko skin (monitor your leopard gecko’s abdomen for redness) . Have two pieces ready to make cleaning easier. If one gets dirty, remove it for a thorough cleaning and replace with the second piece. When the dirty one is disinfected and dry, you can simply replace it).

Pre-packaged bedding for reptiles

There are a variety of reptile bedding products available, and some people use these with geckos. Some are made up of small particles that could be ingested with food, and many experts advise against them. If you choose such a substrate, take the same precautions as with sand. Shredded shells and nuts are not good options for this reason, but substrates like a soil mix or wood chips have their own concerns. Large pieces can impale your gecko or get stuck in its mouth.

slate rock

Some owners use shale rocks embedded in a small amount of sand to anchor them and fill in the spaces between the rocks. If you can get smooth flat rocks this seems like a good option for creating a natural environment that retains and distributes heat well without much risk of substrate being ingested. The amount of sand between the stones is probably less of an issue than an open sandy area.

Substrates to always avoid

Wood shavings, wood shavings, corn on the cob, walnut shells, and gravel are not good for leopard geckos. As previously mentioned, these substrate options come with a variety of risks.

Bearded dragons are native to the deserts and semi-arid habitats of central Australia. They regulate temperature by moving into the sun when they need to warm up and into the shade when they need to cool down. As they sit and bask on a warm rock, any heat gained is immaterial – they evolved to derive their heat from the sun. In an attempt to maximize their heating rate, bearded dragons stretch their bodies toward the sun to gather as much sunlight as possible. Cold bearded dragons are often very dark, which is an adaptation that helps them warm up quickly in the sun’s rays.

A heat stone is the common name for a type of heating source in enclosures for cold-blooded animals to provide heat, in the form of a fake novelty stone that plugs into an electrical outlet.

Keepers may notice that smaller reptiles prefer to rest on the heat stone most of the time as it provides constant warmth. Larger reptiles supplied with heat rocks often prefer to stay close to their rock at all times, reducing their novelty.

Pet owners and handlers now typically recommend a non-contact UTH (under-the-tank heater) or thermal tape that disperses heat through the housing substrate placed in different areas of the tank to create a more even thermal gradient and that tend to move around in their enclosure. Another popular solution is to replace normal lighting with UV-specific sunlight.

http://www.anapsid.org/hotrock.html

However, you should keep in mind that heating mats should not be placed in the vivarium. You can attach them to the side or bottom of the case.

Something that is quite confusing if you have never owned reptiles is how to provide them with adequate heat.

It is important that the gecko’s enclosure provides sufficient heat, since, unlike mammals, they cannot generate their own heat.

In the wild, geckos get their warmth by lying on sun-warmed rocks and in warm enclosed spaces; never in direct sunlight, so a heat lamp is not necessary. In fact, it’s possible to distress your gecko from too much heat. So unless you really can’t get the right temperature with a heat mat alone, you should avoid buying a heat lamp for your gecko.

The main things you need to buy:

heating mat (essential)

thermostat (essential)

Thermometer/hygrometer (recommended)

substrate (essential)

heating mat

ProRep fabric element heating mat 17×11″ 20w

The heating mat should cover about a third of the entire floor area and give the enclosure a warm side and a cool side.

This gives the gecko the ability to regulate its own temperature and choose which area it wants to be in.

Make sure you measure your own vivarium and get the most suitable heating mat.

I use: Pro Rep Heat Mat

thermostat

Habistat thermostat 600W white

To ensure that the temperature of your heating mat doesn’t get too high for your gecko, it should be connected to a thermostat that regulates the temperature of the mat you connect it to. Start by setting the temperature to around 28°C (or 85°F) – you can adjust this based on your geckos’ preferences. If they never lie there, it’s probably too hot, and if they’re inactive, eat little, or never leave that place, it’s probably too cool. The sensor should be placed on top of the substrate, near the area where your gecko’s stomach would rest (see diagram below).

I use: HabiStat Mat Stat Reptile Thermostat

thermometers/hygrometers

diymore LCD Digital Mini Embedded Thermometer Hygrometer Temperature Humidity Meter Probe for Reptiles Incubator Aquarium Poultry (Black with Cable)

Many leopard gecko owners also choose to have a thermometer to monitor the internal temperature of the enclosure and a hygrometer to monitor the humidity (it should be 20% to 40%). If the tank isn’t wet enough, a squirt of water or an airflow adjustment can usually fix it.

I use: A basic thermometer/hygrometer from Amazon

substrate

The substrate is placed on top of the heating mat but under the sensors.

Please see my posts on the substrate:

What is the best substrate for leopard geckos?

Does sand/loose substrate cause impact in leopard geckos?

Vinyl Substrate for Leopard Geckos: Review

I use: linoleum/linoleum/vinyl

I am selling vinyl substrate now: click here to buy it

Basic diagram and instructions for setting up the leopard gecko heater

Place the heating mat on the floor of your vivarium on either the left or right side. This will be the warm side. Connect the heating mat’s power cord to the “heating” socket on the thermostat Connect your thermostat to the mains power Place your substrate on the heating mat Place the thermostat sensor on the substrate, near where your leopard gecko will lie will be on the hot side of your vivarium Place your digital thermostat sensor on the substrate, close to the thermostat sensor. Finally, arrange your skins, food/water bowls, and decorations (have at least one pelt on the hot side and a damp, cooler pelt on the cold side).

This is what my setup looks like without the warm skins over it.

I am selling vinyl substrate now: click here to buy it

Choosing a substrate can be one of the more confusing aspects of setting up a leopard gecko tank. There is much debate as to what substrates are safe and best suited for your specific age and size of a gecko.

Paper towels, while not as attractive in a terrarium as some other options, are one of the most popular substrates available. For hatchlings and hatchlings (less than a year old), paper towels may be the best choice of substrate. For adults, you have more choices, but with all the recommendations, it can be confusing to make a decision. Here’s a rundown of some options to choose from (and some to avoid).

paper towels

As previously mentioned, paper towels are one of the best substrates for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sick geckos), but they can also be used for an adult leopard gecko. With paper towels, you don’t have to worry about swallowing or inhaling a substrate, and they’re highly absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean, reducing the risk of illness. It also makes health monitoring (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.

The downside to paper towels is that your gecko can’t burrow into them, and they aren’t natural in their natural habitats. If your gecko doesn’t like to dig and you’re not concerned about a natural-looking environment, consider using paper towels as a substrate for your leopard gecko.

sand

Sand is where the substrate debate gets heated. Sand is considered unsafe by some due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either from accidental ingestion or intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs). Sand ingestion is a greater risk for juveniles, so using sand with juvenile geckos is not usually recommended. Other potential problems with sand include dust, which can cause breathing problems, and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand. Still, some keepers prefer sand as a substrate because of the ease of scooping out the waste, the natural look, and leopard geckos’ ability to bury their bodies in it.

Healthy adult geckos with proper supplementation are less likely to ingest sand. If you decide to use sand, only use it with healthy adult geckos (never juvenile geckos or sick geckos). Choose a fine-grain sand. To reduce the chance of ingestion, feed your gecko in a different enclosure with a paper towel to reduce ingestion of sand particles. Calcium-based sand is claimed to be digestible, but digests too slowly to be considered a fail-safe option. Any kind of ingested sand can cause an intestinal obstruction that will require a visit to the vet, if not surgery. Provide calcium in the form of a multivitamin to meet calcium needs (to prevent MBD).

Feeding prey items in a bowl can also reduce the likelihood of ingestion. If sand appears during a bowel movement, you should stop using sand immediately as this is an indicator that your gecko is ingesting it. Also watch for signs of obstruction, which may indicate the need for an urgent visit to the vet. These signs include a decreased appetite, a decrease in bowel movements, lethargy, and dark spots on the abdomen (impacted sand in the intestines visible through the skin).

Pete Rowbottom/Getty Images

paper

Like paper towels, paper sheets are basic but safe and make cleaning your leopard gecko’s cage easy. You can get brown butcher paper or plain newsprint quite cheaply and just replace the substrate when it gets dirty.

Shredded paper bedding is also available and is usually safe for leopard geckos to burrow in. They don’t pick up paper litter often, but when they do, the paper used becomes very soft and should pass your gecko with no problem.

Indoor/outdoor or reptile carpet

This is also easy to clean and poses a small risk of choking (watch out for loose threads that could potentially choke or pinch a leg), but some rugs can be a little rough for gecko skin (monitor your leopard gecko’s abdomen for redness) . Have two pieces ready to make cleaning easier. If one gets dirty, remove it for a thorough cleaning and replace with the second piece. When the dirty one is disinfected and dry, you can simply replace it).

Pre-packaged bedding for reptiles

There are a variety of reptile bedding products available, and some people use these with geckos. Some are made up of small particles that could be ingested with food, and many experts advise against them. If you choose such a substrate, take the same precautions as with sand. Shredded shells and nuts are not good options for this reason, but substrates like a soil mix or wood chips have their own concerns. Large pieces can impale your gecko or get stuck in its mouth.

slate rock

Some owners use shale rocks embedded in a small amount of sand to anchor them and fill in the spaces between the rocks. If you can get smooth flat rocks this seems like a good option for creating a natural environment that retains and distributes heat well without much risk of substrate being ingested. The amount of sand between the stones is probably less of an issue than an open sandy area.

Substrates to always avoid

Wood shavings, wood shavings, corn on the cob, walnut shells, and gravel are not good for leopard geckos. As previously mentioned, these substrate options come with a variety of risks.

Leopard geckos are gorgeous creatures with adorable little smiles and cute spots. There’s a reason they’re one of the most popular lizards to keep as pets, but what goes into keeping one of these cute little critters alive? What do leopard geckos need in their tank?

One of the most important parts of owning an animal is learning everything you need and why you need it. To best care for your leopard gecko, you will need a few things that we will discuss in this article. But don’t let it seem overwhelming, once you’ve got everything set up you won’t have any regrets. Leopard geckos are fascinating and one of the easier to care for reptiles.

What do leopard geckos need in their tank?

In a leopard gecko tank, you will need substrate, a heater, hiding places, water, a food pan, a thermometer, and a hydrometer. Now let’s talk about the specifics of each of these elements.

1.tank

I know, pretty obvious, but we have to start with the tank. When buying your leopard geckos, the size of the tank is important. If you have a baby leopard gecko, you’ll want the tank to hold at least 10 gallons. For an adult leopard gecko, the minimum tank size should be 20 gallons. If you can get a tank above these sizes that’s great too, the more gallons the better. Also, you want plenty of room for all your tank items.

Unlike other gecko species, leopard geckos are not tree dwellers. That means they are not climbers. So when you buy your tank, think length over height.

Once you have your tank, what goes in it?

2. Substrate

The first thing you will put in your tank? substrate. Substrate is a fancy word for the ground cover that goes on the bottom of the tank. Let’s look at some of the most commonly adopted substrates by leopard gecko enthusiasts.

Best substrates: tiles, reptile carpet, slate/stone, sand mats, excavated earth and if you want to keep it simple, newspaper or kitchen paper.

Each of these options has its advantages:

Tiles are easy to clean and look very “clean”. Tiles also have endless options with all styles and colors to choose from.

are easy to clean and look very “clean”. Tiles also have endless options with all styles and colors to choose from. Reptile Carpet is often used for its lightness and looks more appealing than other options. If it gets dirty, take it out and wash it well and thoroughly. However, make sure you also replace it with a new carpet from time to time to keep bacterial growth down.

commonly used for its simplicity and looks more appealing than other options. If it gets dirty, take it out and wash it well and thoroughly. However, make sure you also replace it with a new carpet from time to time to keep bacterial growth down. Slate/stone is a little more difficult to clean and takes a little more time, but Leo owners agree it’s worth it for the more natural look they enjoy.

are a bit more difficult to clean and take a little more time, but lion owners agree it’s worth it for the more natural look they enjoy. Sand mats have a nice look without worrying about bumps, and as a plus, they help file your pets’ claws!

They look good without worrying about bumps, and as a plus, they help file your pets’ claws! Dredged earth is a popular choice because, like rocks, this clay gives a very natural look. Honestly, a combination of both would make a very nice looking tank. You can shape and shape their entire habitat with dredged earth. All without worrying about the nuisance you might get with loose substrate.

is a popular choice because, like stones, this tone gives a very natural look. Honestly, a combination of both would make a very nice looking tank. You can shape and shape their entire habitat with dredged earth. All without worrying about the nuisance you might get with loose substrate. Newspaper and paper towels Once pooped up, thrown away and put down another, it couldn’t be easier. Owners who prefer convenience will love the ease of paper towels and newspaper.

The use of sand as a substrate is often not recommended. Many reptile specialists say this can lead to impactions, sand trapping and a blockage in the digestive tract. It is much safer to use mats or substrates with large pieces that cannot be picked up.

3. Heat source

Leopard geckos need to be heated. Without adequate external heating, they cannot keep warm or properly digest their food.

Unlike some other reptile tanks you may have seen, leopard gecko heating does not come from above. Your heat source comes from a heat mat that you tape to the bottom of the tank on one side. You want to create a “hot side” (87-90 degrees F) and a “cool side” (74-80 degrees F). You need a heating mat and a thermostatic controller to keep the temperatures where you want them to be.

A great combination of both a heating mat and a thermostat controller is the Aiicioo Under Tank Heater Thermostat.

It’s important to note that with a heat mat and the right room lighting, your gecko does not need a heat lamp or light. But if you want to use a heat lamp or CHE (ceramic radiant heater), you can. It just shouldn’t replace your UTH (under tank heater mat) as the main heat source. Some options are:

Che lightbulb

Fluker’s Repta-Clamp Lamp Ceramic with Dimmable Switch (with a CHE, lamp with a dimmable switch must be purchased for temperature control)

Never have a sunbathing area over 94 degrees F.

4. Hidden

Reptile skins are very important. They provide shelter when the gecko gets scared, a place to regulate its temperature if it gets too hot or too cold, and a place to regulate the moisture levels in its skin.

Leopard geckos need at least three pelts: one for the cool end of the tank, one for the warm end, and a moisture pelt.

A few favorite skins are:

climbing hideouts

rock cave

bark hideout

Moisture Skin: Moisture skin should be on the cooler side of the tank because the warm side evaporates water faster. They need this moist area to prepare their skin for shedding. The humidity in this coat should be higher than in the others. You can do this by adding damp moss or damp paper towels. Check the moisture hideout daily to make sure it’s still damp, and top off the damp substrate as necessary.

5. Water and food bowl

Leopard geckos eat live food, so it’s handy to have a bowl where food can’t easily escape. This often means a bowl with a small lip on the rim and/or higher walls. Some options are:

Living World Ergonomic feeding bowl for small animals

Anti Escape Mini Reptile Feeder

A few more nature-inspired water and food options:

tree trunk design

Reptile natural bowl

Zoo Med Reptile Ramp Bowl

Leopard geckos need access to water, but they don’t need a lot of it. Keep the water bowl small and shallow to avoid possible drowning. Replace with fresh water daily.

6. Thermometers and hygrometers

It’s important to always know the temperature and humidity readings in your tank, so having a gauge that can do both is pretty handy. You will need at least two, one for each side of the tank. As mentioned above, you need a warm side and a cool side within a certain temperature range. The humidity of the tank should be kept at 20-40%.

recommendations

REPTI ZOO reptile terrarium thermometer hygrometer

Zoo Med Labs Digital Thermometer Moisture Meter

7. Tank decorations

Shell decorations are not as important as skins. But they can enrich your gecko and be more aesthetically pleasing to you. After you have provided all the items the leopard gecko needs, you can add what you think looks good or what you think your gecko might like.

Plants are a nice addition. Leopard geckos don’t eat vegetation, so you don’t need to worry about that. However, you should still make sure they are non-toxic. Real plants can be a bit messy and distract from the tank’s humidity, so many people opt for artificial plants instead.

Rocks and logs can also add nice decoration to the tank. Again, you can choose between real and fake. Avoid rocks with sharp edges. Any real chopsticks or logs you add must ensure they do not contain parasites. A good way to do this is to dry them in the oven for half an hour.

Conclusion

Leopard geckos are a favorite for good reason. With their docile temperament and a wide variety of morphs in many different colors, they make a unique pet indeed. With the right accessories, they will accompany you for a long time.

FAQ

Can I use coconut fibers for bedding?

Due to the moisture that coir coir retains, it is not recommended as a substrate for the entire aquarium. However, coir would be great in a lion’s moisture skin.

Can you put a leopard gecko tank by the window?

Yes, but it’s probably better not to do it if you can avoid it. Placing your enclosure near a window is only okay if you keep a close eye on temperatures. Sun exposure into the tank and too much temperature rise can cause your gecko to overheat and possibly die. In winter it can get quite cold right next to a window. So don’t put your leopard gecko near a window if you have cold winters and can’t keep the tank temperature warm enough.

How often should I clean my leopard gecko tank?

You should spot clean your tank daily, with a more thorough weekly cleaning of the substrate, and a deep cleaning once a month.

Can I use a heat stone?

You should not use a heat stone with your leopard gecko. Heat stones can fail and be very dangerous to your gecko, even causing severe burns to the underside.