Is Olive Oil Safe For Rabbits? The 48 Correct Answer

Although constipation in rabbits can be somewhat temporary and relatively easy to cure, it can sometimes require much more specific and careful treatment. In this post we will see how to recognize the signs of constipation in rabbits and what treatment is best for them.

¿What are the causes of constipation in rabbits?

There are several causes that can trigger constipation in rabbits. Naturally, these animals need to be evacuated several times a day, so a problem of gastrointestinal stasis, known as constipation in rabbits, can lead to serious health problems.

Some of the triggers of constipation in rabbits are the animal’s lack of physical activity, high levels of stress, stressful situations, bad food or other related diseases or pathologies.

signs of intestinal obstruction

Symptoms of constipation or intestinal obstruction are usually easy to spot in rabbits. Basically, our pet is allowed to stop eating as usual.

Rabbit deposits are small and round with an average length of 1 cm in diameter. If you don’t see these stools in your sandbox, the rabbit may have stopped defecating.

It is also possible to find very small stools with yellowish slime in your sandbox.

The abdomen of constipated rabbits is usually inflamed and lacks the distinctive sound of peristaltic stool.

Also, the rabbit is likely lethargic, lacking energy, or lying in its cage. You can also grind your aching teeth.

Treatment of constipation in rabbits

As soon as the signs of constipation in the rabbit are identified, it is expedient to take our pet to a consultation with the veterinarian to determine the severity of the pathology.

The specialist doctor can use an X-ray to analyze the condition of the intestine and determine the best possible treatment alternative.

Once an obstruction or intestinal obstruction is diagnosed, the veterinarian may prescribe medications that reduce gas production to relieve the animal’s pain.

The vet may also prescribe antibiotics to reduce the amount of bacteria that have become lodged in the rabbit’s intestines and prevent the animal from voiding normally.

Occasionally, treatment may include an intravenous injection of fluids to soften the mass found in the intestines.

Feed quality is critical when treating constipation in rabbits. The vet recommends consuming fresh hay and green vegetables, which help normalize bowel movements.

With a balanced diet and constant physical activity, the risk of intestinal obstruction or constipation in rabbits can be avoided. Remember that eating fresh hay is essential to keep your digestive system functioning in optimal conditions.

Olive oil is often touted for its potential health benefits, which include lowering cholesterol and helping to balance blood sugar levels. The oil can also help treat constipation. Constipation refers to the slow movement of stool through your intestines. You may only have a few bowel movements a week. The accepted norm is one bowel movement per day, but your individual habits may vary. When constipated, the stool becomes hard and dry. This can make it difficult to have a bowel movement. Abdominal pain is a common symptom of constipation. The laxative effects of olive oil are generally mild. Most people can also consume the oil without any side effects. Even if it only provides mild relief, it may be worth adding this healthy oil to your diet.

What Causes Constipation? Constipation has many possible causes. This can make it difficult to figure out what is causing your particular case of this. The cause can be as simple and easy to fix as a poor diet or as serious as colon cancer. Benign causes of constipation include a low-fiber diet, poor hydration, and a lack of regular exercise. Sedatives and drugs that lower blood pressure can also cause constipation. Underlying diseases can also cause constipation. Both Parkinson’s disease and multiple sclerosis include constipation in their list of health complications. In many cases, severe constipation is related to a problem in the digestive tract. For example, an anal fissure or a narrowing of the colon can cause constipation. Neurological problems, specifically affecting the nerves around the colon and rectum, and problems with the pelvic muscles can also cause constipation. Olive oil is considered a healthy fat because it contains mostly monounsaturated fats. The body uses these fats to improve cardiovascular health. It’s also better for weight loss than saturated fats or trans fats, which can contribute to weight gain and other issues.

How to Use Olive Oil for Constipation You can buy several different types of olive oil at most grocery stores. Extra virgin olive oil is considered the purest because it doesn’t undergo much heating and chemical processing. Because olive oil is not a drug, there is no standardized recommendation for its use as a laxative. In a study published in the Journal of Renal Nutrition, researchers found that daily doses of olive oil were effective at improving most symptoms of constipation in people undergoing hemodialysis for kidney disease. Doses started at 4 milliliters and increased as needed. You can try a spoonful with a glass of orange juice or a cup of warm milk. The oil can also be used as a salad dressing or as an ingredient in cooking. If constipation is a common problem, you should start sprinkling it on salads, cooked vegetables, or eggs to increase its presence in your diet. Read more: 6 Natural Cures for Constipation »

Are there any side effects? Small doses of olive oil are well tolerated by most people. Because it may have natural laxative properties, olive oil consumed in large amounts can contribute to diarrhea. Olive oil packs a lot of calories into a small serving. A tablespoon, for example, has almost 120 calories. If you’re counting calories carefully, remember to include olive oil in your count. If you have diabetes, you should speak to your doctor before using olive oil in this way. Olive oil can lower your blood sugar levels.

Risk Factors to Consider Adding a little more olive oil to your diet or trying a spoonful here and there to treat constipation probably poses no risk, even if it doesn’t fully address the constipation problem. If you’ve consumed olive oil in the past with no problems, adding more to your diet or taking it as a laxative should be fine. You should consult your pediatrician before giving olive oil to your baby. Read more: 5 Safe Remedies for Constipation During Pregnancy »

Outlook If olive oil doesn’t help, consider taking an over-the-counter laxative. Many of these products work within a few hours, so you shouldn’t take these if you don’t have ready access to a bathroom. If you’ve tried olive oil or other treatments and are still constipated a few days later, make an appointment with your doctor or a gastroenterologist. If you have not had a bowel movement for a week, you should see a doctor. You should also see a doctor if your bowel movements are painful or produce little stool.

People have used olive oil for thousands of years for its nutritional, health, and other benefits. Researchers have linked its use to lower rates of heart disease, cholesterol, obesity, and many other conditions.

The definition of constipation is when a person has fewer than three bowel movements a week, or when their bowel movements are dry, hard, small, or difficult to pass. It’s a common digestive problem that can affect people of all ages.

Constipation is a common problem, and there’s some evidence that olive oil can help relieve it.

Share on Pinterest A spoonful of olive oil every day can help relieve constipation.

When the stool is hard and dry, it doesn’t move easily through the intestines. This is constipation.

Olive oil can be a safe and healthy way to get stool moving again and relieve constipation.

The fats in olive oil can help smooth out the inside of the intestines and make bowel movements easier. It can also help the stool hold more water and keep it softer.

A tablespoon of olive oil taken on an empty stomach in the morning can relieve constipation in many healthy adults.

However, people should not take more than a tablespoon, as it can cause diarrhea and cramps.

Constipation is common among people undergoing dialysis. A 50-person study published in the Journal of Renal Nutrition in 2015 found that olive oil, flaxseed oil, and mineral oil were all equally effective at relieving symptoms in this group. People consumed 4 milliliters (mL) of olive oil per day.

A team reporting in the World Journal of Gastroenterology in 2012 found that “Olive oil and sweet almond oil can act as emollients when their intake exceeds the absorption capacity of the small intestine.”

They recommended a good intake of fiber to prevent constipation in the first place.

Can children use olive oil?

Babies and children with constipation should not take olive oil.

Instead, the American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP) recommends a small amount of apple or pear juice, Karo syrup, or mashed prunes for infants.

Toddlers and older children can find relief with high-fiber foods like prunes, apricots, and whole grains.

If dietary changes don’t help, children should see a doctor for additional treatment.

Other health benefits of olive oil

In addition to helping with constipation, olive oil appears to have other health benefits.

It’s a staple of the Mediterranean diet, and this diet has been associated with reduced risk of certain diseases and longer life.

Olive oil contains phenolic compounds that have anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects.

It can help reduce the risk of degenerative diseases like Alzheimer’s or Parkinson’s, as well as diabetes, heart disease, certain cancers and arthritis.

The American Heart Association (AHA) recommends olive oil intake for better heart health due to its heart-healthy monounsaturated fats.

The Dietary Guidelines for Americans 2015-2020 recommend that for adults over the age of 19, 20 to 35 percent of their daily calories should come from fat and less than 10 percent of that should be saturated fat.

Olive oil also contains vitamin E, an important nutrient that helps prevent the production of free radicals and has a role in supporting the immune system, among other things.

Although several types of olive oil are commercially available, extra virgin olive oil may have the greatest health benefits. When an oil is said to be “extra virgin,” it means the fruit was simply pressed to extract the oil.

Other types, such as “light” olive oil, may have been extracted using chemicals or other processes. This allows some of the natural olive compounds to be refined and filtered out.

Other oils to treat constipation

Using oils to relieve constipation is not a new trend. Castor oil has been used to treat constipation for years, although its effects differ from the mild effects of olive oil.

Castor oil affects the muscles in the gut, causing them to contract and move. This often stimulates the intestines to make a bowel movement.

Sometimes people use castor oil to induce labor in a late pregnancy because it can cause the uterus to contract.

Pregnant women should not use castor oil for constipation without first asking their doctor if it is safe to use.

Mineral oil and flaxseed oil help soften stools in a manner similar to olive oil.

Pet rabbits may have access to many items such as small parts of children’s toys, carpets, cords, plastics, and buttons on remote controls, etc. All of these may seem appealing to rabbits and may not be noted as missing by owners until the rabbit begins to show clinical signs on closer inspection to show discomfort.

Clumping clay-based cat litter, when used in litter boxes, can also be ingested and cause clogs. For this reason, only non-clumping cat litter, such as e.g. B. pressed wood chips can be used.

Rabbits can also eat things that are part of their daily diet that can cause constipation. The seeds of apples, carob seeds, which were formerly common in muesli-like rabbit foods, and corn chunks have all been cited as causes of intestinal obstruction in rabbits. However, in order for an obstruction to develop, there must be a concomitant underlying disease, such as dehydration or reduced intestinal motility.

Today, however, apples, granola and corn are no longer part of a healthy rabbit diet.

Essential oils toxic to cats, dogs, rabbits, birds

Essential oils toxic to all pets

Essential oils are the highly concentrated version of the natural oils found in plants and have been used to improve physical, mental and emotional health for thousands of years. In addition to aromatherapy and alternative medicine, today there is a growing trend to use essential oils in cleaning products, food and beverage flavorings, herbal remedies, perfumes, personal care products and as air fresheners. However, pet owners should be aware that essential oils can pose a health risk to their pets.

Exposure can be through licking and ingestion, absorption through skin contact, or inhalation from oil diffusers. Call statistics from the National Pet Poison Control Center show a trend away from skin contact poisoning toward inhalation toxicity as more homes use essential oil diffusers for aromatherapy. Essential oils are particularly toxic to cats because they lack an enzyme in their liver that is necessary for the metabolism and elimination of toxins. Cats are also more sensitive to phenols and phenolic compounds found in vegetable oils. The higher the concentration of essential oil (i.e. 100%), the greater the risk of toxicity.

The same is true for dogs, especially puppies and adults with liver disease. Rabbits, guinea pigs, and small pets are also at risk. Because of their particularly sensitive airways, birds are at particular risk when using essential oil diffusers.

Essential oil concentrates known as pet venoms include:

Cinnamon, Citrus (d-Limonene), Clove, Eucalyptus, Pennyroyal

Peppermint, Pine, Sweet Birch, Tea Tree, Wintergreen

Ylang Ylang

The best advice in households with pets is to only operate the oil misters in areas that are inaccessible to pets for short periods of time.

The Pittsburgh Spay & Vaccination Clinic is a state-of-the-art, full-service suburban veterinary facility operating in the Pittsburgh area since 1980. We provide diagnostic, medical, surgical and dental care for dogs, cats, ferrets, rabbits and other pocket pets in the Pittsburgh area.

Need a refill of your pet’s medication? Visit our online pharmacy

Once approved, the medications will be delivered directly to your address.

While rabbits are cute when you see one hopping through the woods or into someone’s yard, they’re a lot less adorable when they’re eating the plants, flowers, and shrubs in your yard that you’ve painstakingly grown from scratch. So what can be done to keep these cute little flower eaters at bay?

Rabbits have a strong sense of smell, which they use to find accessible food sources. They can take advantage of this trait by using scents they don’t like, such as garlic, vinegar, chili powder, robbery urine, sulphur, blood meal, chives, lavender, geranium, and wax begonias.

Read on to learn more about what smells rabbits hate and how to use them, plus other tips and tricks to get those pesky furballs to stop eating your plants!

Just to add – if you shop through links from Pest Pointers, we may earn affiliate commissions if you make a purchase. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.

Why do we have to evict rabbits?

It can be cute to watch a little bunny hop and frolic around your garden. However, it will be a lot less attractive if they’ve eaten some of the plants you’ve been working hard to care for all season.

So unless you’ve turned your yard into a wildlife sanctuary, there’s a good chance you want to keep rabbits away from all those plants, flowers, and shrubs that you’ve put so much time and effort into.

The most common solution gardeners use to repel rabbits is to use unpleasant smells to get them to stay away. Not only is this an easy do-it-yourself solution, it’s also repeatable over and over again.

Put simply, we will “sniff them away”!

While it may depend on what type of fragrance you are using, usually using the “sniff away” method, you simply spray the fragrance onto the area around your garden or flower beds. Make sure the fragrance you apply smells strong, and if you’re using a spray bottle, make sure you’re spraying the soil around the plants, not the air!

Now that we know what to do, your next question might be: Why is this method so effective?

Why do rabbits hate certain smells?

Why does this work? Well, mainly because rabbits, like many wild animals, have an extremely keen sense of smell and are easily put off by seemingly unpleasant smells and tastes. Bunny noses are extremely sensitive, which is one of the main reasons why rabbits are often seen twitching in the air with their little sniffers.

Basically, this is how they sense potential predators. While this ability helps them stay aware of their surroundings, it also makes the membranes in their nostrils incredibly sensitive and easily irritated.

Because a rabbit’s nose is so sensitive, they won’t want to hang around or eat in an area that’s full of unpleasant odors. While predator smells will scare them away (we’ll get to that in a moment), most other smells will “annoy” them rather than frighten them.

Think about it like this. If you go to a restaurant looking for a buffet but the whole place smells strongly of rotten eggs, you probably wouldn’t want to eat there, right? Well, the same goes for rabbits. If they detect an odor that is unpleasant or irritating to them, they are unlikely to stay and taste the buffet you call your garden.

So, what smells do rabbits hate so much? Let’s look at that next.

A quick note on using scents to repel rabbits. Of course, fragrances need to be reapplied regularly to repel our furry friends, especially after heavy rains. Use common sense if a particular scent needs to be repeated often (usually 1-2 times a week depending on how strong the scent is naturally or what product you have.)

Garlic keeps rabbits away

Garlic’s pungent, pungent aroma may smell great to you when simmered in your favorite pasta sauce, but it’s a huge turnoff to rabbits.

You can use a simple pre-made garlic spray or just make your own by mixing some with some raw eggs and pouring the mixture around your plants and garden. It’s fairly common to add mint to this concoction to make it even less attractive to rabbits. Yuck!

If you don’t like the idea of ​​having to mix this yourself, take a look at the Safer Brand Critter Ridder: Deer and Rabbit Repellent. It’s formulated with a base blend of rotting whole egg solids, capsaicin, and garlic, which are actually three of the individual scents we’re talking about on this list!

In general, it’s best to go for pre-formulated products because you’re getting a product that’s already been tested and that others have used, rather than seeing if you got your mix or concentration right.

Rabbits hate vinegar

Like garlic, the pungent smell of vinegar is a powerful deterrent to rabbits. If you want to use this home remedy, simply dilute some white rice vinegar in a spray bottle with water and spray generously around your plants.

Many farmers also swear by soaking corn on the cob in vinegar and placing it near target sites as the corn on the cob will hold the scent a little longer. While it makes your yard smell like a bag of salt and vinegar chips, it keeps the rabbits away!

Be careful not to spray vinegar directly on your plants as it can cause wilting. You should spray this all around your plants, right away from their roots.

Sprinkle chilli powder around the plants

Ah yes. Good old-fashioned chili powder. Makes you want a hot bowl of chili, yes? OK maybe not.

Sorry, a little hungry as I write this. Back to repelling rabbits from your garden!

Chili powder works similarly to hot sauce by irritating and inflaming the membranes in a rabbit’s sensitive nose. Sprinkle chili flakes around the base of your peonies and other garden flowers is quick, easy, and effective.

Basically, chili powder has an active ingredient called capsaicin that causes all of the irritation we mentioned. If you’ve ever taken a large whiff of raw quality chili powder, you know what I’m talking about here.

Try looking for a large bag of chili powder at your local wholesale store and sprinkle the mixture around your garden 1-2 times a week to keep the scent at its peak.

Predator Scents: Scare rabbits away

As we mentioned earlier, rabbits have such sensitive noses that they can sniff out potential predators. A rabbit’s natural enemies are primarily coyotes, bobcats, bobcats, and wolves in the wild. So another common rabbit repellent would be to buy the urine of one of these animals and spread it between your flowers and other plants (not directly on the plants, of course).

While it might not smell appealing to you either, these scents will undoubtedly make rabbits take a triple shot before they even think about venturing into your garden.

When choosing a scent, make sure you choose one that is a natural predator for the rabbits in your area. While a predator’s urine will increase your chances of repelling rabbits, if they are unfamiliar with the smell in your area, it may not do you any good.

Let’s take a closer look at some predator scents and where they live:

coyotes

Coyotes, like bobcats, are found across the continent. However, they are mainly found in the southern part of the United States.

So if you live in the Southeast or Southwest, coyote urine can be an excellent go-to resource for repelling rabbits.

Since they can be found everywhere, it’s a good bet to use coyote urine instead of one of the other predator scents, as there’s a very good chance that an intruding rabbit will know what a coyote’s presence looks like.

One of the more reputable coyote urines on the market is PredatorPee Original Coyote Urine. It comes with scent labels so you can spray the label yourself and place it near your plants where the scent itself will last a bit longer when infused with the label.

bobcats

Bobcats are native to North America and can be found anywhere from northern Canada down to Florida. In short: If you live in the United States, Bobcat urine is an excellent way to keep rabbits away!

Lynxes

Lynx are also native to North America but are typically found in the northern parts of the continent. So it’s best to use this scent if you live above the Mason-Dixon line, in the mountains, or somewhere that gets cold on a regular basis.

wolves

Wolves are typically found in similar locations to lynx: cold, mountainous, or in more northerly areas, particularly the northwestern United States or Canada. Wolf urine is also the most difficult to find, so most people choose to use lynx or bobcat urine instead.

Rabbits don’t like sulfur

You can find dried sulfur at most garden supply stores, and it’s easy to sprinkle around the base of your plants. Again, the strong smell of sulfur is key.

Sulfur mimics the smell of rotten eggs (mentioned in the garlic section), which rabbits loathe because of their sensitive noses.

If you go the sulfur route just make sure if you have a dog you keep them away from where you are spreading the sulfur – they will sniff and may want to dig in those areas!

Blood meal to deter rabbits

blood meal or rather dried blood. is an excellent option as it also acts as a natural fertilizer for your plants, adding healthy nitrogen to the soil. in the

As with sulfur, be sure to keep dogs away from the area where you spread blood meal. While rabbits might not like the smell or taste, dogs love it!

An article published on the Michigan State University Extension states that while dried blood can be used to repel rabbits (along with deer), the blood loses its potency after a rain and must be reapplied.

If you’re interested in taking a look at a quality blood meal product for your plants, check out Burpee Organic Blood Meal Fertilizer, which is ideal for green garden veggies!

The scent of chives drives rabbits away

Because chives are such a strong smelling plant, using this herb to repel rabbits is always a brilliant idea. The scent quickly irritates rabbits’ sensitive sinuses.

Rabbits several feet away can quickly smell the pungent odor emanating from chives, similar to the pungent odor of garlic. Better still, when the gardening season is over, you can harvest the chives and use them in your cooking, so again it’s a win-win for you.

Rabbits hate lavender

While we’ve already mentioned that rabbits are connoisseurs of almost every plant and flower, there are a few flowers that rabbits turn up their noses at for some reason.

Lavender happens to be one of them.

A more flower-friendly option for diffusing an artificial scent would be to plant a large crop of lavender next to your peonies. While humans like the calming scent of lavender, rabbits despise lavender because of the strong smell and bitter irritation it imparts to them.

Positioning lavender near your affected plants is a win-win. You can enjoy the look and aroma of the fresh lavender, and it will keep those pesky furballs away!

Geranium keeps rabbits away

Geranium is another smell and taste that rabbits dislike. Considering that one of the most popular candle and perfume scents is geranium, it’s clear that people don’t feel that way. Most people love the smell and look of a bunch of fresh geraniums in their garden, so planting some to ward off rabbits is definitely a win-win!

Rabbits do not like wax begonias

Wax begonias tend to be less common in gardens than geraniums or lavender. Still, they’re another beautiful plant that rabbits just turn up their noses at! It is mainly due to the texture and also the strong scent of the plant itself.

Plant a crop of this near your rabbit-friendly plants and it will help keep them in check. Note, however, that the scent of begonias tends to be pungent on sunny days, so you might not smell as strongly of rabbit-repellent on those cloudy, overcast days.

In case they’re not sold on begonia, geranium, or lavender plants, here are a few other plants that rabbits don’t like the smell or taste of:

catnip

snapdragons

Leek

Black-eyed Susanne

thimble

All of these are plants that rabbits in the wild do not typically eat. However, since some of these plants do not carry strong odors themselves, we do not recommend using them alone to keep rabbits off your lawn. While they may not eat those particular plants, they may simply eat around them.

That being said, you really only need to plant these flowers if you like the way they look, or as extra protection against rabbits after using another solution.

No smell is the best rabbit deterrent

Here’s a little bonus you can and SHOULD try – fragrance-free.

Okay, let me just get this straight. You should definitely use scents to deter rabbits, but there are other things you can do with your property to deter rabbits and other pesky critters in the long term.

In conjunction with some of the scents mentioned above, you can essentially rabbit-proof your garden for the long haul with ease.

Rabbit proof fence

Since rabbits are known not only for their noses but also for their wild hopping abilities, installing a fence may seem like a wasted effort.

According to the University of California’s Integrated Pest Management Program, cottontails and bush rabbits won’t be able to jump a two-foot fence (a rabbit might be able to, but most likely only if it’s being chased by a dog.)

Basically, as long as you install a fence that’s over two feet tall, you should be good! While this is a very effective solution, it is also time-consuming. This can affect the aesthetic appearance of your garden.

Make sure you get a quality galvanized chain link fence when getting a fence and install at least 2 feet to keep rabbits out.

Get a dog!

If you’ve been looking for an excuse to get a dog, here’s one! As we mentioned before, rabbits have a strong sense of smell and are suspicious of other animals’ urine.

So if your dog pees anywhere in your yard, rabbits will smell it!

Since dogs are not natural enemies of rabbits, urine alone does not have the same effect as the lynx or coyote urine discussed earlier. However, they will be able to smell that another animal lives in the garden and that alone can help scare them away.

The sound a dog makes is the other key indicator for a rabbit that another animal is now living in your yard. Aside from barking, dogs will sniff, growl, and make noise as they trudge through your yard. Often these noises will help deter potential rabbit intruders.

Get rid of the low hanging brush

If your yard is filled with ground-level shrubs, sprawling moss or clover, or other low-hanging, creeping plants, this is the rabbit’s best territory.

Because rabbits do most of their foraging at dawn and dusk, they prefer to head to places where they can easily hide from coyotes, lynx, foxes, and other animals that might see them as a tasty snack .

Of course, one of the solutions to getting rid of rabbits is to get rid of the places they like to hide in and get them not to venture into your yard in the first place.

If your yard doesn’t have a suitable spot for a rabbit to snack on in peace, they’re less likely to choose your yard as their new favorite lunch spot. While this may mean getting rid of some plants you like, the payoff for your garden can be worth it.

packing!

Hopefully your flowers and plants will be rabbit-proof after applying one or a few of the suggestions above.

There’s a reason “sniffing away” remains the most popular solution among gardeners, it can be a quick and effective strategy for keeping rabbits away from your plants and making your harvest (or just your flowers) all the more fruitful.

However, if for some reason you find that using scents to repel rabbits isn’t for you, be sure to check out one of our other options! No matter what, you deserve a rabbit-free, thriving garden.

So your next step is to figure out which solution works best for you, and then get to work! Whether it’s a smell, a fence, or even adding a new furry friend to your family, you’re well on your way to having a gorgeous rabbit-free yard.

references

Johnson, W.V. (1964, March). rabbit control. In Proceedings of the 2nd Vertebrate Pest Control Conference (1964) (p. 15).

Henke, S.E. (1995, April). Effects of coyote control on their prey: a review. In Symposium Proceedings – Coyotes in the Southwest: A Compendium of Our Knowledge (1995) (p. 27).

Sullivan, T.P., Nordstrom, L.O., & Sullivan, D.S. (1985). Using predator odors as repellents to reduce feeding damage by herbivores. Journal of Chemical Ecology, 11(7), 903-919.

Williams, S.C., & Short, MR. (2014). Evaluation of eight repellents to deter eastern cottontail herbivore in Connecticut. Human-wildlife interactions, 8(1), 12.

Knowing what is safe and what is not safe to feed rabbits can be difficult. We know that the bulk of your rabbit’s diet should consist primarily of hay with small amounts of pellets and green leafy vegetables, but can you take that further? Is there any other food you can offer your rabbit for a bit of variety?

We were recently asked by a curious owner what types of fruit they could feed their rabbit. One of the fruits mentioned was coconut and we thought this would be an interesting topic for you to take a closer look at to see how safe it is for you to feed your rabbit coconut as a treat.

So can rabbits eat coconut? No, rabbits cannot eat coconut. The meat is very sweet and has a high fat content, which is nutritionally very bad for rabbits. It also contains the wrong phosphorus to calcium, which can lead to serious stomach problems. Rabbits cannot handle the contents of the coconut and should not be fed to rabbits in any form.

Overall, coconut is not a good choice for rabbits. However, it can be prepared in many different ways and here we will explore the variety of methods that coconut can be consumed and whether any of these methods might be suitable and safe for your rabbit.

Can rabbits eat coconut meat?

Coconut meat is just way too sweet for rabbits to safely consume. It also has a very high fat content that helps to pack on the pounds.

But that doesn’t mean your rabbit isn’t ready to eat it. They sure are.

Coconut is very palatable to rabbits and they will happily gobble down every last bit given half the chance. This can often be a problem as it discourages them from eating their regular food like hay which is a key part of their diet.

The content of coconut meat does not fit well with the nutritional needs of rabbits. Rabbits require a calcium to phosphorus ratio of between 1:1 and 1:5:1.

Calcium excess above this range can cause them to have trouble absorbing minerals adequately. Low phosphate levels can lead to delayed growth, reduced conception rates, and weak bones.

Coconut does not supply these two chemicals in sufficient amounts for rabbits, making it an unsuitable treat for your rabbit.

Can rabbits eat coconut oil?

Our furry friends tend to gain weight very easily and as responsible owners we should not encourage our rabbit to eat an unhealthy diet (which is entirely our choice).

A study done specifically on rabbits showed that including 9% coconut oil in a rabbit’s diet for 12 weeks significantly increased cholesterol levels, to the point where our furry friends were harmed.

Coconut oil is unnecessary for rabbits and can certainly do more harm than good. Also, coconut oil is not very palatable and your rabbit is likely to wrinkle their nose at the prospect of eating it.

No fear! It’s not all doom and gloom.

Coconut oil is being used more and more these days to help with chronic skin conditions like dermatitis. Research has shown that coconut oil is safe to use in small amounts on rabbit skin as a topical treatment.

Coconut oil contains MCFAs (medium-chain fatty acids) that help prevent skin infections and speed up cellular repair processes.

For example, if your rabbit gets a scratch or cut on their skin, coconut oil can help soothe and protect them while helping the wound heal much faster.

As a reminder, only use coconut oil as a topical treatment for your rabbit. Do not allow them to consume this oil which can have some disastrous long-term effects such as: B. the promotion of high cholesterol levels.

Can Rabbits Eat Dried Coconuts?

Feeding your rabbit dried coconut is a very similar scenario to feeding it fresh coconut meat. Although this product is a dried version, it still contains the same very high fat content as fresh coconut.

This can lead to your rabbit becoming overweight if fed regularly and not getting the right balance of calcium to phosphorus that your four-legged friend needs to stay fit and healthy.

Dried coconuts are available in a variety of supermarkets and you can be assured that this is a highly processed food that has been tailored to human taste buds.

This means that the dried coconut that is bought in stores is likely to have many extras, such as added preservatives and sugar, to make that product more palatable to humans. This is not ideal for your rabbit and anything that contains added sugar must be avoided.

Dried coconut variety is also quite difficult for rabbits to swallow. It is very dry and does not contain much moisture. This can get stuck in your rabbit’s throat and can pose a serious choking hazard.

As you can see there is no benefit to feeding your rabbit dried coconut and with so many other delicious fruits and products on the market it is an unnecessary source of food that is best avoided for the health and well being of your rabbit .

Can rabbits eat coconut shells?

Rabbits can’t technically eat the husk of coconuts, but they’re probably good at trying! Coconut shells are extremely difficult to eat and don’t break easily. A rabbit is unlikely to be able to sink its teeth far enough into the shell to even break it, let alone eat it.

Coconut shells can be a wonderful toy for your rabbit to play with. They can have hours of fun rolling the shell around which can be a great boredom buster when in their cage.

Just make sure they aren’t having too much fun as coconut shells can be quite heavy and you don’t want your rabbit to get injured during playtime. You can reserve this activity for complete silence when they leave their cage to exercise so you can keep a good eye on them.

Coconut shells can be great for sharpening your rabbit’s teeth. They often use items that resemble coconut shells, such as B. Pieces of wood to keep their teeth healthy, sharp and in top condition. This is perfectly safe for your rabbit to chew on and has the potential to be a lot more durable than a piece of wood.

Some things to keep in mind when using a coconut shell as a toy for your rabbit:

Buy organic so you know it’s free of pesticides

Check the shell regularly for cracks that can cause splinters and pose a risk to your rabbit

Make sure your rabbit is in a large cage, as coconuts are a decent size and can take up valuable space

Consider using this as a toy when your rabbit is moving so you can keep a good eye on them

Can rabbits drink coconut water?

Coconut water is becoming a much more popular drink these days and many supermarkets carry a wide range of human consumption brands. Most brands contain just a touch of calcium, phosphorus, sugar, fat, and fiber, which means that in small doses, these are fine for your rabbit.

That doesn’t mean this is a great drink to give your rabbit frequently, and it should never be given as a direct substitute for fresh, clean water. Regular water must be available to your rabbit at all times, and coconut water must be offered as a treat rather than a permanent solution.

Rabbits seem to love the taste of coconut and will drink this throughout the day without a second thought. It can keep them from drinking their regular water, which can become a problem.

Owners have found that coconut water can be especially helpful for rabbits that suffer from dehydration and refuse to drink water. Coconut water is so delicious that you just can’t resist a sip.

There are definitely some benefits to this drink, but it’s a smart idea to limit your rabbit’s access and try to stick to plain water.

Can rabbits drink coconut milk?

No, rabbits should not drink coconut milk. This creamy drink is way too greasy for our furry friends and not a healthy choice for them.

Coconut milk contains an average of 23% fat, which is way too high. Rabbits generally don’t get much exercise and as such are unlikely to be able to burn it off sufficiently.

Obesity is a common problem in rabbits for precisely this reason, and as responsible owners we need to be careful about what type of food we feed our rabbits.

Next: Can Rabbits Eat Grapefruit?

Rabbits rely heavily on their sense of smell. In the wild, rabbits are constantly sniffing the air. They do this to recognize food and to check if predators are nearby. Pets have the same instincts, so you’ll find that your rabbit’s nose is rarely still.

A rabbit’s sense of smell is up to 20 times better than that of a human. Rabbits are constantly sniffing, splitting their upper lip as they do so. This allows for a better reading of the scents in the air. Your rabbit is constantly looking for smells that warn of potential threats such as predators.

A rabbit’s excellent sense of smell can be both negative and positive. While their sharp nose keeps your pet safe, they are also extremely sensitive. Strong artificial smells and dust will irritate a rabbit’s nose. Avoid using scented chemicals around your pet and clean your rabbit’s hutch regularly.

Do rabbits have a strong sense of smell?

Wild rabbits have such a sharp nose that they can smell food buried underground. Also, a rabbit can smell predators long before they are visible. This, coupled with their speed, keeps wild rabbits alive.

You will surely notice that your pet twitches its nose regularly. This is because she sniffs the air around her. A domesticated animal is less at risk than a wild rabbit. Your pet will still be careful. She retains survival instincts.

Rabbits don’t just use smell to spot threats. Your pet can also use its sharp nose to sniff out friends. Your rabbit will learn your scent and start considering you safe. She will also recognize the presence of other rabbits.

Rabbits use their sense of smell to communicate. Like many animals, rabbits sniff each other out at first sight. They release pheromones that are too subtle for a human nose to detect.

Because she has such an excellent sense of smell, your rabbit’s nose is sensitive. Be careful to aggravate their nasal mucous membranes. Avoid wearing perfume or cologne when handling your rabbit. Also, do not use strong air fresheners.

When a rabbit’s nose becomes excited, it can lead to an upper respiratory infection. Dust and other small particles can also cause these concerns. A healthy rabbit will usually recover. Nonetheless, these health concerns are worrisome.

How does a rabbit use its sense of smell?

You will find that your pet rabbit seems to be sniffing constantly. When your pet moves their nostrils up and down, this is called “nose blinking.” As Pet Helpful explains, quick sniffing will help a rabbit get more information about an odor.

Watch out for excited sniffing. This could mean your rabbit is too hot. She tries to get more air. If the temperature is neutral, a smell has piqued your rabbit’s interest. She tries to explain if it is a threat.

If your rabbit seems calm, take a good look at them as they sniff the air. You will notice that her upper lip separates. She wasn’t injured. This is an organic feature of your pet’s anatomy.

By opening his cleft upper lip, your rabbit allows more air molecules into his nose. Twitching your rabbit’s nose stimulates these molecules. Messages are then sent to your rabbit’s brain.

Based on these messages, your rabbit will react. If she catches the scent of a predator, she flees and hides. When she smells her favorite human, she will run to greet you. When her nose spots food, she doesn’t hesitate to examine it further.

Rabbits also have the Jacobson’s organ, which many animals use to improve their sense of smell. This organ is located in the palate. This organ is used when an animal picks up a new, interesting smell in the air.

Most animals open their mouths to gain access to the Jacobson’s organ. This does not apply to rabbits. They use the same split lip technique we just discussed. If your rabbit’s mouth is open, this indicates that it is having trouble breathing.

How important is the sense of smell for a rabbit?

It is argued that a rabbit’s most important sense is their hearing. However, the smell is a close second. A rabbit’s sense of smell is crucial for many reasons:

Rabbits have good eyesight, but not perfect. Their vision is also tailored to detect movement. Your pet will smell potential dangers before they see them.

Rabbits have excellent hearing. This allows your pet to be startled regularly by loud noises. She will sniff the air and associate a smell with a sound. This will tell the rabbit if it needs to be scared.

Rabbits are naturally curious and territorial. Your pet will always want to explore and claim new, uncharted territory. With her sense of smell she will know if it’s safe.

Your pet leaves its scent on everything it comes across. She does this by rubbing her chin on an object or you. Humans cannot detect this smell, but rabbits can. It means the rabbit has claimed the item or person.

, or you. Humans can’t smell this, but rabbits can. It means the rabbit has claimed the item or person. A male rabbit that has not been spayed will emit a musky odor around a female. Female rabbits pick up this smell. A neutered rabbit will flee or attack. An intact woman is likely to welcome the attention that is to come.

Baby rabbits are born with their eyes closed. Most baby rabbits don’t open their eyes until they are ten days old. Until then, they rely on their sense of smell to find their mother’s teat and food.

Rabbits can do without their sight, but their sense of smell will always remain critical. When your older rabbit stops sniffing the air, take heed. It indicates that their health is declining.

Rabbits vs. human sense of smell

The human nose consists of around five to six million olfactory receptors. A rabbit has up to a hundred million of these cells. This means that a rabbit’s sense of smell can be twenty times stronger than that of a human.

Also, humans lack the Jacobson organ that rabbits use. According to the American Association for the Advancement of Science, humans can perceive up to a trillion odors. With that in mind, imagine how many different flavors a rabbit can perceive.

Because of this, your rabbit seems to be seeing things that you are not. When your rabbit stares into the distance, it doesn’t “see” anything. She uses her powerful nose to figure out what she smells.

Rabbit vs. Cat’s Sense of Smell

A cat’s sense of smell is inferior to that of a rabbit. Cat noses are limited to about eighty million scent receptors. This is still far superior to a human, but it cannot be compared to a rabbit.

Remember that cats are natural predators. This means that a cat hunts with its nose. We may not be able to smell a rabbit, but a cat can. Keep this in mind if you keep both animals in the same household.

Luckily, a rabbit is likely to smell a cat first. This gives the rabbit time to run and hide. Since rabbits are constantly on the alert, your pet will move at the first warning sign.

Rabbit vs. Dog’s Sense of Smell

How does a rabbit’s sense of smell compare to that of a dog? Canines have long been considered the gold standard for sniffing animals. Dogs can follow a scent trail for miles.

Canines have certainly beaten rabbits in this regard. Dog noses are believed to contain three hundred million olfactory receptors. Your dog will perceive aromas that even a rabbit cannot.

However, dogs use their noses for different reasons than rabbits. Dogs are hunters and rabbits are prey. Both animals will likely perceive the aroma of each other. You will then react differently.

While a dog’s nose is stronger, a rabbit is better at picking up smells. When a dog is relaxing or dozing, it may ignore a smell. Rabbits don’t have that luxury. Your pet is always alert to smells and ready to hide when necessary.

What smells do rabbits like?

If you want to fill your home with scents that your rabbit will find pleasant, consider these:

Meal . Rabbits think with their stomachs. When your pet smells food, they will be attracted to it. Sugary fruits are particularly popular. Just remember that many human foods are toxic to rabbits.

. Rabbits think with their stomachs. When your pet smells food, they will be attracted to it. Sugary fruits are particularly popular. Just remember that many . roses . Just like sweet foods, sweet-scented flowers will attract a rabbit. Roses in particular will be a rabbit magnet. Consider trimming the thorns of your rose bushes just to be safe.

. Just like sweet foods, sweet-scented flowers will attract a rabbit. Roses in particular will be a rabbit magnet. Consider trimming the thorns of your rose bushes just to be safe. Other rabbits. This isn’t necessarily a smell your rabbit will like. It depends on the particular rabbit. She’ll want to know what marks that other rabbit left.

. This isn’t necessarily a smell your rabbit will like. It depends on the particular rabbit. She’ll want to know what marks that other rabbit left. remedies for pets. This is a product designed to calm and soothe animals through scent. Pet Remedy consists of valerian, basil, sage and vetiver. Together, these scents are appealing.

. This is a product designed to calm and soothe animals through scent. Pet Remedy consists of valerian, basil, sage and vetiver. Together, these scents are appealing. your own waste. It’s not hygienic, but rabbits take comfort in the smell of their own urine and feces. After cleaning, leave a small amount of used bedding and bedding in your pet’s coop.

. It’s not hygienic, but rabbits take comfort in the smell of their own urine and feces. After cleaning, leave a small amount of used bedding and bedding in your pet’s coop. You. Once you bond with your rabbit, they will enjoy your smell. They are viewed as a source of comfort and joy. Don’t be surprised if there is a rabbit lying on your unwashed laundry.

What smells do rabbits hate?

Because of their keen sense of smell, your rabbit will dislike more smells than they like. The wrong flavor can cause stress in your rabbit. Be careful when exposing them to any of the following odors.

predators . Rabbits are aware of the threat of predators. If you have cats in the house, their smell will upset your rabbit. Outdoors, think fox or coyote urine on your lawn.

. Rabbits are aware of the threat of predators. If you have cats in the house, their smell will upset your rabbit. Outdoors, think fox or coyote urine on your lawn. lavender . This plant has a reputation for having a calming effect. With rabbits, it has the opposite effect – your pet will loathe the smell. Avoid lavender room sprays or scented candles.

. This plant has a reputation for having a calming effect. With rabbits, it has the opposite effect – your pet will loathe the smell. Avoid lavender room sprays or scented candles. onions and garlic. Many people dislike these smells. Onions and garlic are among the most effective natural repellents against rabbits.

Many people dislike these smells. Onions and garlic are among the most effective natural repellents against rabbits. Spicy scents. Rabbits also don’t like spicy smells like chilli powder or mustard. Do not leave open jars of these products lying around in your kitchen.

Rabbits also don’t like spicy smells like chilli powder or mustard. Do not leave open jars of these products lying around in your kitchen. perfumes and air fresheners. Strong chemicals will irritate a rabbit’s nose. Don’t douse yourself or your home with artificial flavors.

It may take a little trial and error to find common ground with your rabbit’s nose. If she lives indoors, you may want to cover up any natural animal scents. However, think about your rabbit.

Imagine living next door to a heavy metal band that rehearses all day. The noise would drive you crazy. The same goes for a rabbit surrounded by bad smells. She can’t turn her nose off, and that will constantly scare her.

A rabbit’s sense of smell is like a superpower. These animals have evolved over centuries to trust their noses to keep them alive. Trust your rabbit’s sense of smell just as much.

If your rabbit seems excited by a smell, then action needs to be taken. Reassure your pet and reassure them that you will protect them. Just because you can’t see a threat doesn’t mean your rabbit can’t smell it.

Care of the chronically ill

MARINEL HARRIMAN

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Frequently asked questions about disabled rabbits

Living with a disabled rabbit

In consultation with Marliss Geissler, DVM Your vet has just informed you that your rabbit will not recover from his current illness. You are faced with the decision of having or keeping her euthanized for as long as possible. The experience we have to share concerns the latter choice. We are by no means advocating keeping a suffering animal with a terminal illness alive for the sake of auld lang syne, but sometimes suffering is in the eye of the beholder. Think this through with the help of your veterinarian. CONVENIENCE If your pet isn’t in physical pain and you’re not interested in “killing for convenience,” you need to plan a routine that minimizes your discomfort. Your rabbit may be impaired due to injury, illness, or normal aging. The impairment is usually associated with mobility problems and incontinence. Add to this the rabbit’s peculiar function of coprophagy (discussed in HRJ Vol. I, No.4) and you will have many problems for them to solve. MEDICAL TREATMENT If your rabbit has an incurable illness, they will be given medication to slow down the illness and make them more comfortable. If the disease is protracted and chronic, you will have to deal largely with support. Most of your effort will be to keep the bunny clean and free of sores and urine burns. in preventing excessive weight loss; and in providing prescribed physical therapy. FOOD AND FLUID Discuss appropriate nutrition and vitamin supplements with your veterinarian. The specific requirement depends on the type of disease. Anorexic rabbits can be fed Nutrical or moistened pellets through a large oral syringe (or smaller ones with the ends cut off). Sometimes a rabbit that isn’t eating well won’t drink well either and can become dehydrated. Your veterinarian may direct you to give fluids subcutaneously (under the skin). MATERIALS The first necessity is a small portable cage, possibly two cages. You might want to keep them in a well-appointed large cage while you’re away from home, but then you can lug them around in something smaller when you’re home and have them next to you at the dining table or in front of the TV at night. If she’s unable to move around the house on her own, it’s your job to give her some distraction. Most paralyzed rabbits are better at drinking from water bottles attached to the sides of the cage than water bowls. On the other hand, the pellets are easier to handle in a shallow, heavy bowl no more than 2 inches deep. Her treats can be placed right on her blanket. Yes, I said carpet. One of the greatest inventions for a sick rabbit is the washable, quick-drying, soft synthetic sheepskin rug. Get a few of these and rotate them daily. Think of them as diapers. You can even hand wash them and hang dry. The padding is also helpful in preventing “bedsores”. INCONTINENCE When bladder control is lost, a rabbit’s rear end becomes soaked with urine because it cannot squirt the urine away from its body. The result is severe urinary burns and hair loss. The burn can be treated with a liberal application of Panalog. This wonderful ointment works wonders on inflamed flesh and also loosens stuck stool. Once the inflammation is relieved, petroleum jelly can be used to protect the skin from the urine. An incontinent rabbit must be kept indoors only. In a few hours outdoors, it becomes a victim of fly infestation (maggots). Rabbit fur takes a long time to dry. Because of this, I learned to give abbreviated baths, which sometimes consisted only of putting the buttocks under the running water. These tasks become routine and not a burden. WORTHY EXAMPLES Scooter spent the last year of his life with us. When he came to us, he was paralyzed from the waist down and has never been better physically. Visitors often felt repelled by him and urged us to put him out of his misery. What could we do for this hopeless animal? We could provide him with a comfortable environment near the kitchen window and we could give him physical exercise by letting him roll around on the living room floor. (We protected our rug by laying it on the floor after urinating.) The real highlight of his day, however, was his bath, which was necessary to reduce the buildup of urine and feces. My husband dried him off with a towel in front of the heater and Scooter spent a good part of the evening on Bob’s lap being scratched, rubbed and fed sliced ​​bananas. Melinda had a huge abscess in her chest. It was inoperable. Her lung capacity was so reduced that she would gasp at the slightest stress. The X-ray procedure had put her under so much strain that she had to be given oxygen. How much time does she have? Two hours? Two days? Should we put them to sleep or let them die naturally at home? Will it be painful? Does she have something to live for in this moment? I thought of her loving companion waiting for her return. We decided to bring her home. Tetracycline in the drinking water slowed the growth of the abscess enough to give her another two months during which the two rabbits ate and slept together, licked and groomed each other, and even played a little. One night she was excessively tired and died quietly in her sleep. Peggy recently came to us with an eye infection, a twisted body and an amputated hind leg. Add to that loose stools that smear on the cage floor because she can’t maneuver well enough to use a litter box or clean herself. How can we give this bunny a decent life? Gentocin drops for her eyes helped. A slatted floor helps me there, I can wipe it off with vinegar water. And since we had a good-natured, chronically ill, lonely castrated male on hand, we gave the two rabbits to each other. Nobody knows how much time they have left or what kind of suffering they have experienced. But what matters is that every precious day they experience now is a life in itself.

Rabbit ear mites, or Psoroptes cuniculi, are a common parasitic problem responsible for the condition known as ear canker. It is considered one of the most common rabbit mites and also causes infections in guinea pigs, horses, goats, antelope, sheep and cattle. Left untreated, cancer can lead to secondary bacterial infections of the skin or invade the middle and inner ear, causing neurological disorders and fatal meningitis.

Type

P. cuniculi is a large, non-burrowing mite of round to oval shape that can be seen by an infected animal with the naked eye. However, the mites often penetrate into the deeper regions of the external ear canal, where they are not visible. The mite is clearly visible when it is on the outer folds of the ear and in the pinna (ear flap). Mites pierce the skin at the base of the hairs and use bell-shaped suction cups to feed on the host’s lymphatic fluids. The mites’ mucus and feces cause an inflammatory response that causes severe itching.

life cycle

Depending on the environmental conditions, the cycle of P. cuniculi is about 21 days. Mites lay eggs in the host’s earwax or dead skin. Larvae hatch from the eggs in about four days. At this stage the larvae have six legs and remain in this stage for four days and then begin to molt. After another three to ten days, they become eight-legged protonymphs. The protonymphs then molt into adults who can mate and lay eggs.

The mites can survive four to 21 days without the host. Survival is greatest when temperatures are low and humidity is high (greater than 75%).

transmission

Rabbit ear cancer is extremely contagious and is generally spread through direct contact from an infected to an uninfected animal. Mites just crawl from one to the other. The mites can also be transmitted through contact with the environment, when an animal scratches or shakes itself, causing flakes of the mite-infested canker, which contains live mites and eggs, to fall off. Pre-existing wet dermatitis is believed to provide a suitable environment for mite infestation.

Transmission is more likely when large numbers of rabbits or other susceptible hosts are housed in close proximity, such as B. in crowded stables, pet shops, shelters, rabbit breeding facilities and wild rabbit enclosures.

signs and symptoms

A first infestation can be missed if it starts deeper in the ear canal. Owners may notice ear scratching and head shaking at this early stage. Other signs include redness, heat, and swelling of the ear canal. As the mites multiply, the infestation spreads to the outer ear and is clearly visible at this point. It is not uncommon for only one ear to be affected.

The host animal is usually very restless at this stage, frequently itching and scratching its ears and head. The self-trauma of itching and scratching damages the ear skin even more, leading to more inflammation, itching and scratching. The inflammation also causes serum and white blood cells to ooze to the skin’s surface, which traps and then dries out mites, feces, and skin cells. This leads to crusting, scabbing, and thick scales, or gray, scaly bits of skin that stick to the inside of the pinna. Under the crust, the skin is moist, hairless, and rough.

The crusting and scabbing can spread to the head and neck and other parts of the body with grooming or untreated infestations that multiply. A hanging ear can also be due to the weight of scabs around the outside of the ear.

Left untreated, ear cancer can lead to secondary bacterial infections that increase the pain and discomfort. A foul smell in the ear is an indication of an infection. Head tilt and signs of imbalance are also indicators of secondary infection and possible chronic disease.

treatment

It is important to treat the infected animal and the surrounding area at the same time to prevent recontamination. It is recommended to also remove the infected animal from its living environment while treating the animal to give the mites and eggs a chance to die. A large box or box of clean disposable bedding is good temporary housing.

There are two main treatment options available to treat ear mites. Systemic treatments use oral, injectable, or dermally absorbed antiparasitic drugs. In topical treatments, antiparasitic medications are applied directly to the infected areas in the form of drops, powders, or oils. Systemic treatments are usually preferred because they require fewer repeated doses, are easier to administer, and produce better results.

P. cuniculi are effectively treated with avermectin drugs, including ivermectin and selamectin. Injections or oral doses of ivermectin repeated over 14 days are more effective than topical applications of the same.

Moxidectin, also an avermectin, has also been shown to be effective against ear canker mites.

Removing the crust and scab can be extremely painful for the animal and there is debate as to whether or not this should be done. With proper treatment, the medications allow the scab to be easily removed within a few days, or it will begin to fall off on its own within 10 to 14 days of treatment.

Since rabbit ear mites can live on a host animal for up to three weeks, it is important to decontaminate stalls, cages, burrows, feeding sources, and other items around the infested animal.

Physically remove all contaminated and potentially contaminated bedding. It is almost impossible to chemically decontaminate the large surface area of ​​bedding, whether paper, straw, hay or wood shavings. It is best to simply remove everything and replace with fresh, clean bedding.

Rest the animal’s environment. Leaving the area free of any rabbits or other animals for 4-6 weeks will ensure that it becomes mite free. Treat stalls, cages and bedding with an insecticide suitable and safe for the animal. Always read the label carefully before using an insecticide on an animal or its environment. Some insecticides are toxic to rabbits and guinea pigs.

Replace or move housing. Some hutches, especially those made of porous wood, are difficult to clean and remove mites once established. In these cases it may be easier to replace a hutch or cage. If the animal’s housing is nearby and accessible to wildlife populations, consider moving or remodeling to prevent wild mite carriers from coming into contact with your animals.

references

Scott, D., Miller, W. and Saunders, W.B. (2001). Dermatoses of pet rodents, rabbits and ferrets. Muller & Kirk’s Small Animal Dermatology, (6th ed., pp. 1415-1453). Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: C.E. WB Saunders Company.

Hansen O, Gall Y, Pfister K, and Wieland B (2005). Efficacy of a formulation containing imidacloprid and moxidectin against naturally acquired ear mite (Psoroptes cuniculi) infestations in rabbits. International Journal of Applied Research in Veterinary Medicine, 3(4), 281-286.

If you suspect your rabbit has ear cancer, you should take them to your vet as soon as possible because the longer you wait before treating them, the worse it will get and the longer the rabbit will suffer.

Recommended treatment consists of ivermectin injections once every 10-14 days for three treatments or moxidectin injections once every 10 days for two treatments. All contact animals should be treated even if they are not showing symptoms. Mild infections can be treated with ear drops.

Systemic treatment should be sufficient to clear up the crusted lesions on the ears, but if necessary they can be removed by soaking them in mineral oil before removing them very gently. Care must be taken not to damage the lining of the ear canal, and your vet may need to sedate your rabbit to safely perform this procedure.

Pain relievers (analgesia) in the form of a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) may also be prescribed to help with the pain and irritation the condition causes.

Ear mites in rabbits

Ear mite infestations in rabbits are caused by the parasite Psoroptes cuniculiis. They can be found in just one ear or both ears and in some cases spread to surrounding areas – the head, neck, abdomen and genital regions. The main symptom is flakes of skin on the inner ear, which turn into larger, thicker crusted lesions with surrounding hair loss. If left untreated, the lesions can become infected, putting the inner ear at risk of infection and subsequent hearing loss.

No particular breed or age is at higher risk, but the risk of getting ear mites can be increased by exposure to affected rabbits, e.g. B. in pet shops, animal shelters or households with several rabbits. The risk of infection can also be increased by contact with mite eggs laid in grass, straw or wood chip bedding.

symptoms and types

Mild to moderate itching around the ear, head and neck

Intense itching (more common) located mainly around the ears, head and neck; occasionally generalized

Head shaking and scratching

Affected areas can become extremely painful

Thick brown to beige crusty exudate in ear canal

Occasionally, brown to beige crusts and itching only appear on the ears and feet

Hair loss and peeling of the skin around the ears

Signs of an ear infection can also occur

Mites and lesions can spread to the face, neck, abdomen, perineal area and even feet with grooming

diagnosis

Your vet will initially want to distinguish between other forms of infection and causes of scratching, but if mites are present, these will be clearly differentiated by your vet. They may or may not be visible to the naked eye, but the symptoms of Psoroptes cuniculiis infection are generally recognizable as such. Your doctor will perform an examination of the ear, both visually and with special instruments. A study of exudates, the fluid that leaks/oozes from injured tissue, is collected with an ear swab and analyzed microscopically. Blood and urine can also be analyzed, usually with normal results.

treatment and care

The parasite Psoroptes cuniculiis is contagious, making it necessary to treat all rabbits that come into contact with the infected rabbit and to thoroughly clean and treat the environment in which the rabbit lives. Remove and discard all organic materials from the cage, including wood or paper products, and bedding, replacing the bedding with shredded paper bedding that can be disposed of. The cage should be thoroughly cleaned every day during the treatment period, nothing should be reused. Combs, brushes and grooming utensils must also be discarded or thoroughly disinfected before reuse, otherwise you will find that your rabbit has been reinfected.

There are special antiparasitic medications called ivermectins that can be used to remove the mites from your rabbit’s ears. The scabs on the skin should not be removed as they only expose exposed tissue. Once treatment has begun and the mites are no longer infesting the crusted skin, the underlying skin can heal and the scabs will fall off. Other ointments and preparations that can be used for the ear may contain antibiotics for any infections found on the outside of the ear. For internal infections, oral antibiotics are prescribed. If your rabbit is in pain, your vet will also prescribe a mild pain reliever.

life and management

One month after the start of initial therapy, an ear swab and physical examination should be performed. The prognosis for most patients is excellent. In cases where the infestation is severe and the eardrum has ruptured due to infection, a resulting inner ear infection can lead to permanent hearing loss. This result is relatively rare.

In any case, continue to disinfect and ensure a very clean environment for your rabbit. Contact your veterinarian if the parasites return or your rabbit hasn’t fully recovered.

“Don’t forget to plan ahead! Routine wellness appointments are in 8 weeks.”

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