Is Red Light Bad For Ball Pythons? The 48 Correct Answer

by GoHerping

lighting

If you ask me, every reptile needs a clear day-night cycle. This basically means that your pet should have light during the day and no light at night. However, special lighting is not necessarily a requirement for corn snakes. Ball pythons are considered nocturnal and are most active at night. This means ball pythons don’t get much, if any, UV rays in their natural habitat, meaning UVB (ultraviolet-B) lighting is definitely not necessary. Despite this, many people have noticed positive changes and effects when their ball pythons are given access to UVB lamps.

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However, the second debate comes into play when it comes to albino ball pythons. Albinism causes animals’ eyes and skin to become more sensitive to light, so it’s possible that UVB is actually irritating your albino snake more than it’s doing her or her good.

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My personal suggestion for this would be to stay on the safe side and keep UVB away from albino ball pythons, at least for now, as we know it’s not necessary, but there are still questions as to whether it will harm the more sensitive morphs.

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Anyway, yes I suggest you give your ball python some light. Whether that’s by adding an LED panel or fluorescent bulb to your enclosure, or simply giving your snake indirect window lighting. Just giving the animal a way to tell night from day is great.

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Using bright lights at night is also something I strongly recommend you avoid. Even if this red bulb is labeled as a “night” bulb, reptiles can actually see it and are unlikely to be grateful for it. Additionally, according to many experienced keepers, bright red light is known to be irritating to reptiles in general.

Although our hobby is still young, there are still many myths about caring for reptiles. These generally stem from fundamental misunderstandings and outdated practices from the early days of the hobby, when reptile care was mostly guesswork and resources extremely limited. Here are 15 of the most common myths in our hobby and brief explanations of why they’re not true.

Select housing

MYTH #1: Reptile enclosures at pet stores are a good example of how to house your new reptile

Many people treat reptile enclosures in pet stores like serving suggestions on feeding boxes – they see the reptile in the pet store display case and automatically assume that this is the best way to house it. Unfortunately, reptile enclosures at pet stores are often far from the “best” in any category – they’re often too small, too sparsely decorated, and overcrowded to start with. They are designed to keep the reptiles alive (just barely in some cases) and present the reptiles as merchandise.

If you’re looking for enclosure inspiration, you’re better off joining a *quality* Facebook community dedicated to your reptile and scrolling through sample enclosure images for inspiration.

MYTH #2: Reptiles get stressed in large enclosures

Nature has no walls. If reptiles were inconsolably stressed when they found themselves in a large room, they would all be dead by now. However, in wide, open spaces where there are no places to hide, they tend to become stressed because it triggers instincts that help them say they are in danger and will be eaten by a predator. This can easily be remedied by ensuring the enclosure (regardless of size) has plenty of options for the reptile to hide as needed.

While certain species are more tolerant of wide open spaces (e.g. bearded dragons) than others (e.g. ball pythons), all reptiles benefit from having hiding places in their enclosure. By creating multiple hiding places in a large enclosure, the reptile can regulate temperature and explore comfortably while knowing there is always a nearby loophole.

MYTH #3: Multiple reptiles can be kept in the same tank to save space

Very few reptiles are truly social. Most are territorial and prefer to live alone for most of their lives, away from chance encounters and the breeding season. This means they don’t get “lonely” and don’t need “friends” to share their space.

If you want to have multiple reptiles, you will need to purchase them in separate enclosures. If you can’t afford to fully outfit multiple enclosures, then you can’t afford multiple reptiles, and trying to do otherwise is a selfish practice that will ultimately cause your pets to suffer unnecessarily.

MYTH #4: Reptile kits are a great way to get everything you need for your new pet reptile

This is one of the most common reptile care myths and many new reptile owners fall into its trap. Reptile kits are a marketing gimmick by reptile product manufacturers designed to sell more products. They are not all-in-one, comprehensive reptile care kits. Most are generic and not specific to the needs of any individual species. They also tend to cut corners and use inferior materials to keep kit costs down. In some cases they are downright horrible and not suitable for use with reptiles.

It’s better to think of starter kits as a head start than a one-time solution. They’re a quick way to accommodate an impulse purchase, but you’ll likely need to buy more accessories and even upgrade the case itself later.

lighting

MYTH #5: Reptiles can’t see red light

Reptiles can see red light. Most – if not all – reptiles can actually see more colors than humans. This is because they are tetrachromats, meaning they have at least four types of cone cells (color receptors) in their eyes. This allows them to see UVA light, invisible to humans, alongside the full spectrum of visible light we know as rainbows. This includes red light.

The use of red (or other colored) light bulbs in a reptile’s enclosure will bathe its surroundings in that color and affect its ability to see properly. It can also disrupt their sleep patterns, which in turn can negatively impact health and appetite.

MYTH #6: Nocturnal reptiles shouldn’t get light because it hurts their eyes

Nocturnal reptiles are exposed to the same sun as diurnal reptiles, and their eyes can adapt to bright conditions. The difference is that they see better at night, possibly better than during the day. Daylight doesn’t cause them pain – it just makes them sleepy.

Providing a light source during the day can help nocturnal reptiles regulate their sleep-wake cycles and associated hormonal rhythms. Both nocturnal and diurnal reptiles should always have access to shady areas where they can recover from light exposure and rest in a safe environment.

MYTH #7: Albino reptiles should not be given light or they will become blind

Albino reptiles have eyes that are more sensitive to light. They can appreciate darker conditions, and UVB lamps need to be weaker for albino reptiles than their normally pigmented counterparts.

However, most terrarium lights are nowhere near as bright as actual daylight, so they are still safe to use. Indeed, avoiding the use of halogen heating or UVB lighting for fear of photodamage denies reptiles the benefits of shortwave infrared and UVB exposure.

MYTH #8: Nocturnal reptiles do not benefit from UVB

This is one of the most persistent myths about reptile care. Multiple studies have shown that nocturnal reptiles are able to synthesize vitamin D3 when exposed to UVB light, meaning they 1) benefit from UVB exposure and 2) need it. This is because vitamin D3 synthesis is a self-limiting system that only “turns on” when the body needs more vitamin D. So if the reptiles in the study make vitamin D3 when exposed to UVB, it means they didn’t have enough vitamin D to start with.

It is also known that terrestrial vertebrates in general are all capable of synthesizing vitamin D3 through exposure to sunlight and generally do not get enough from their diet even when supplemented. To date, there are no legitimate studies demonstrating that a specific species of reptile does not benefit from UVB exposure. Until a species is found that proves otherwise, it is safe to assume that all reptiles will benefit from UVB supplies in captivity.

MYTH #9: If a reptile can stay alive without UVB, it should not be provided

Denying a reptile access to UVB and relying only on diet and supplementation is an inaccurate approach to reptile health. Because science does not yet have an accurate method for dosing vitamin D3 by body weight for each species in captivity, we have no way of knowing if the amount of vitamin D3 we are giving our reptiles through supplements is sufficient. This makes the practice of supplementing or relying on diets with whole prey to provide all the vitamin D a reptile needs very imprecise, especially considering that whole prey can themselves be vitamin D deficient .

When people don’t get enough vitamin D, we become depressed, are more likely to get sick (especially respiratory infections), slow down healing, feel tired, and can experience bone and muscle pain. Although humans and reptiles are very different in many ways, the way we use vitamin D at the metabolic level is believed to be quite similar in all terrestrial vertebrates. It can therefore be assumed that reptiles with vitamin D deficiency show similar symptoms but cannot communicate this to their keepers beyond reduced activity and fertility.

MYTH #10: All UVB lamps are the same

When it comes to UVB lamps, there are many individual differences between brands and even between different types of lamps. Brand and lamp type affect the strength, longevity, safety and reliability of a UVB lamp.

Arcadia and Zoo Med are currently the leading UVB lamp brands in the United States. Guides such as the UV Tool, Arcadia Lighting Guide, and Zoo Med’s Choosing the Right Lamp guide are helpful in determining how to use your UVB lamp properly. Remember that terrarium screens typically block 30-50% of UVB output, reducing the effective distance of a bulb.

For maximum precision, use your UVB lamp with the help of a Solarmeter 6.5

heating

MYTH #11: Some reptiles need abdominal warmth

It is a common and persistent belief that certain reptiles, particularly nocturnal and crepuscular ones, require warmth directly on their bellies to properly digest. It’s hard to say how this myth started, but what reptiles really need is for their core body temperature to reach a certain point before they have enough energy for proper digestion. It does not necessarily depend on whether the heating is from above or below. The decision of whether to use a heat mat or a heat lamp to warm your reptile will depend on factors other than providing “belly warmth”.

MYTH #12: All heat lamps are the same

Unfortunately, choosing a heat lamp isn’t as easy as running to the pet store and snagging the first one that has a picture of your reptile on it. There are actually several different types of heat lamps, each with different characteristics:

halogen flooding. This lamp produces a lot of strong Infrared-A (strongest), smaller amounts of Infrared-B and some Infrared-C (weakest). It also produces warm white visible light and the most heat per watt. Halogen heat lamps generally have many different wattages to choose from.

light bulb. Incandescent bulbs produce less heat per watt than halogen bulbs, and instead of having a dome shape, they typically have the shape of standard incandescent bulbs. These produce warm white visible light and are available in different wattages.

Coloured. Colored heat bulbs are typically incandescent heat bulbs made from blue, red, or “black” colored glass. They are usually advertised as “night” heat lamps and produce a subdued, colored light. Colored heat lamps are available in different wattages.

Ceramic radiant heater. Ceramic radiant heaters (CHEs) produce primarily infrared-C and are most effective at heating the surrounding air rather than the ground. They produce no visible light and are available in a limited range of wattages.

Deep Heat Projector. Deep heat projectors (DHPs) produce some infrared-A, a lot of infrared-B, and some infrared-C. They are similar to ceramic radiant heaters in that they produce no visible light, are available in a limited wattage range, but do a better job of heating the floor.

Whatever you choose, make sure it’s the best to meet your reptile’s needs

MYTH #13: Reptiles need warmth at night

In nature, heat is mainly supplied by the sun. The earth is warmed by the sun during the day and cools after sunset. Although this heat can linger after sunset in the form of radiant heat from sun-heated rocks, roads, and similar surfaces, this heat typically does not last much longer than the first two hours.

A nocturnal heat supply beyond the first two hours after “sunset” is therefore unnatural and can upset the day-night rhythm of a reptile. In fact, it is speculated that this nocturnal cooling promotes the health of reptiles.

The exception to this is certain tropical reptiles, which experience warm nighttime temperatures in their natural habitat. These reptiles may need a light-free supplemental heat source throughout the night to ensure adequate nighttime temperatures are available.

MYTH #14. Reptiles die if they don’t have access to heat for even a few hours

A common concern of hysterical reptile owners on forums and Facebook groups goes something like this: “My bearded dragon’s heat lamp broke and I won’t be in the store until tomorrow. What can I do to keep my baby warm until then?”

Good news: reptiles in the wild can survive and do without heat for long periods of time. There are many occasions when the sun is not shining and the weather is cooler than optimal, such as during winter. B. Rainstorms, cold fronts and night. As alternating heat, reptiles simply slow down their metabolism during these times and sleep until it warms up again. So if your lightbulb goes out or there is a power outage, simply stop feeding your reptile and let it sleep. As long as temperatures don’t drop dangerously low, your pet will be fine.

substrates

MYTH #15: Loose substrate (especially sand) causes impact

Geophagy is the practice of eating soil that contains materials such as soil and sand. This is known to be fairly common in wild reptiles, whether intentional or accidental. However, studies of the gut contents of wild reptiles show little to no accumulation of these materials in their digestive tracts. This means that despite the fact that wild reptiles live on and occasionally eat loose substrates such as sand and soil, no sort of “impact” is caused, although many people insist that this is the natural and inevitable result of substrate ingestion , especially sand, is .

So what’s up? For the answer we need to look at the difference between captive and wild reptiles. Wild reptiles are usually fairly healthy, albeit generally on the lean side of things. They have access to optimal sun temperatures for their species, they have access to UVB light, they eat healthily, parasites are well controlled and they are generally adequately hydrated. All of these factors affect the motility of the digestive tract, and while wild reptiles generally get what they need in these areas, captive reptiles may not be so, making them vulnerable to impact and other problems.

In fact, sometimes taking sand and soil can be beneficial. These materials contain even smaller particles of essential minerals and when ingested they act as an all natural nutritional supplement.

Sometimes it can be difficult to tell the difference between factual information about reptile care and information based on myth. If so, rate the quality of the source and information with these questions:

Am I getting this information from an expert or just a random person on the internet?

Is this information scientifically backed?

Is this information consistent with the nature of the wild habitat and ecological niche of the reptile?

Would this action improve or decrease my pet’s quality of life?

Most of the time, the common myths about caring for reptiles don’t improve the quality of life and definitely don’t hold up under the lens of science.

Snakes love to bask in the sun during the day. As a reptile owner, you may be wondering if snakes also need lights at night to keep them as safe and comfortable as possible.

Snakes don’t need lights at night. They benefit from a day-night rhythm, so they need light during the day and darkness at night. If the light is left on during the night, the snake could become stressed and lethargic and stop feeding.

Read on to learn more about the peculiarities that come with giving lights to snakes at night. They need warmth and light to survive, but only at certain times of the day.

Why snakes don’t need lights at night

Snakes don’t need lights at night, as they benefit most from a fixed day-night rhythm. Light would only confuse them and lengthen the day. Your snake will have trouble becoming comfortable in this environment as there is no clear distinction between active and resting phases.

Most snakes do well at night without lights. This choice keeps them healthy and active in their habitat without added stressors. Light is necessary but can be disruptive to the snake if used incorrectly. You won’t die, but other problems may arise.

If you don’t give your snake a proper day-night cycle, several negative effects can occur. They might get stressed in their enclosure as sleeping becomes more difficult for them, especially if they don’t have skins that offer completely dark spots.

Your entire system becomes confused as snakes and other reptiles associate light with warmth and no light with “time to hide and sleep.”

This stress can then lead to loss of appetite and lethargy, i.e. lack of energy. This trait will be visible in your snake’s activity level.

To avoid these negative effects, turn off your snake’s lights at night. Each snake needs a different amount of lighting during the day, which we’ll discuss later. Proper exposure of your snake is vital to its health.

Do snakes need a heat lamp at night?

There is a lot of conflicting information online about whether or not you should leave a snake heat lamp on at night. Although snakes benefit from warmth at night when the temperature gets too low, the heat lamp is not the best method of keeping them warm after dark.

To mimic their natural surroundings as closely as possible, turn off the heat lamp at night. Other alternatives don’t emit as much light. The light from a heat lamp can confuse your snake, so use a second option for best results.

During the day, you can use multiple heat sources to keep your snake warm. During the night you should switch to one so as not to confuse your snake with the extra light. Heat and lighting do not have to occur together in a habitat.

It’s important to give your snake the opportunity to come out of the light whenever it wants by offering skins that mimic the skins they find in nature.

Heat lamp alternatives for the night

If you want to provide a nighttime heat alternative that differs from a heat lamp, there are several options in the reptile keeping world to choose from. All of them are excellent choices and affordable options.

The worst option: red lights

Infrared heat lamps work the same as regular heat lamps, but do not emit a red glow. These are better for your snake if you leave them on at night. Despite this, we do not recommend them as red light can be harmful to reptiles as it can penetrate their skin.

under tank heaters

Heating pads under the tank will warm the floor of your habitat, providing your snake with a warm and cozy place to stay. These need to be applied to the outside of your tank to warm the area.

These are a great option! In combination with a thermostat, you can easily regulate the temperature.

We recommend combining this heating pad here with this thermostat to control the temperature.

Ceramic radiant heaters

Finally, there are ceramic heaters. These will warm the room without a light source, so your snake won’t be kept awake at night by the light emitted by the device.

These sources work in conjunction with a heat lamp. When night comes, turn off the heat lamp and prioritize one of these items as a heat source for your snake.

Ceramic heaters are loved by all reptile keepers who have tried them. They are cheap, work without any problems and are not complicated to use. We recommend buying this ceramic radiant heater here.

The 60 W version is sufficient for smaller tanks.

If you have a larger tank, the 100W version might be a better choice.

Common pet snakes and their light and temperature recommendations

Common pet snakes do they need a light? How much light per day? Temperature at night Temperature during the day ball python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 75 F 75-80 F Rosy Boa No, but it is recommended for environmental imitation. Varies as they spend the day in hiding 72 F 75-80 F Corn Snake No, but recommended for environmental imitation. 12 hours 68 F 78-80 F Redtail Boa Yes, they need light. 12 hours 70-80 F 80-85 F Green Tree Python No, but recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 70-80 F 78-88 F California Kingsnake No, but recommended for environmental imitations. 10 hours 72 F 88-90 F Gopher Snake Yes, they need light. 14 hours 72 F 85-88 F Western Hognose Snake Yes, they need light. 14 hours 75 F 75-85 F Milk Snake No, but it is recommended for environmental imitations. 8 hours 75-82 F 80-85 F Dumeril’s Boa No, but it is recommended for environmental imitation. 11 hours 70-75 F 80-85 F Garter Snake Yes, they need light. 10 hours 73 F 85-88 F Rubber Boa No, but recommended for environmental imitations. Natural Cycle 50-70 F 75-85 F Kenyan Sand Boa No, but recommended for environmental mimics. 10 hours 80 F 85-95 F Carpet Python Yes, they need light. 11 hours 70-75 F 80-85 F African House Snake Yes, they need light. 13 hours 70-75 F 85-90 F Woma Python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 70-75 F 85-90 F Rough Green Snake Yes, they need light. 10 hours 70-75 F 80-85 F Child Python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 70-75 F 88-90 F Brazilian Rainbow Boa Yes, they need light. 10 hours 75-80 F 85-90 F Burmese Python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 14 hours 78-84F 84-92F

Understand your snake

In order to offer your snake the most comfortable living space possible, you should know what temperatures it feels most comfortable in, how much light it needs and what warmth it prefers. This knowledge will enable you to give your snake the best life possible.

Snakes prefer a day-night rhythm that they can always rely on. Giving this to your reptile is sure to make them enjoy their time with you.

The emerging ball pythons have always been a cornerstone of reptile pets. They are a docile species that do not grow very large, are long lived (25-30 years or more) and are very easy to care for. In the 1990s, genetic variations called morphs began to emerge and captive breeding of this species became more popular. Because it was much easier to get captive-bred hatchlings to eat, captive breeding eventually became the standard and wild-caught specimens became less and less desirable. Over the next few decades, a few initial genetic morphs turned into hundreds of combinations of genes, resulting in colors and patterns never seen before. Through selective breeding, you can now find ball pythons that are all white with blue eyes, greyish purple and yellow, orange and lavender, and patterned with stripes, spots, and many other amazing combinations of patterns and colors. As more and more people have come to keep and breed these amazing snakes, they have become one of the most kept reptile pets in the world.

Habitat Ball pythons are found in sub-Saharan Africa in countries such as Mali, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ghana, Cameroon, Chad and Uganda. Most of their habitat are dry grasslands, savannas and forest edges. These terrestrial snakes typically hide in burrows and other underground lairs, where they avoid and estivate (summer dormancy) the African heat. The burrows they hide in are often former dwellings of the native opossums that the ball pythons used to hunt. Depending on temperatures, these snakes can spend up to 22 hours a day in their burrows, only coming out to warm up and hunt or find water.

Temperature and Humidity It is important to create a thermal gradient (a warm side and a cool side) in the cage/enclosure. This can be done with an appropriately sized Zilla heater mat, which attaches to the bottom of the tank on one side and adds adequate lighting. Ideal temperatures for ball pythons range from 75-80°F on the cool side and 80-85°F on the warm side. On the warm side, provide a basking range of 88-92°F. Using a Zilla Low Profile Dual Fixture with a Zilla 50W Mini Halogen Lamp and a Zilla Tropical Mini Compact Fluorescent UVB Lamp will provide the right heat and UV radiation for your ball python to thrive. While ball pythons do not require UVB to survive, UVA/UVB light has been shown to greatly improve the immune system, health and well-being of all reptiles, both during the day and at dusk. Be sure to place the light over the side with the heating mat to create the warm side of the thermal gradient. Spot clean the enclosure of uric acid and feces once a week. Remove all substrate every 3 months to clean and disinfect the tank and decor.

Feeding and Diet In the wild, Ball Pythons prey on small mammals such as rodents and small birds. Most hatchlings can be started with bouncy mice or fuzzy rats once a week. Food can be gradually increased as needed. Most adult ball pythons can be fed small to medium-sized adult rats once every 7-10 days. A general rule of thumb when feeding snakes is to provide prey items that are about as wide as the snake’s widest part. It should be noted that these snakes regularly refuse food for long periods of time, especially in the winter months. While this can be alarming, it is not uncommon. During this time their weight should be monitored to ensure they do not become underweight or starve.

Ball pythons are one of the most popular pet snakes in the world due to their beautiful morphs, ease of care, and docile temperaments. Your enclosure is also relatively easy to set up and maintain, requiring only heating and the right humidity level. As most ball python owners know, these pythons require a temperature gradient in their enclosure in order for them to thermoregulate and this is usually done with a heat lamp. But do ball pythons actually need a heat lamp?

Heat can be easily provided to your Python via heat pads, heat tape, and radiant heat plates, eliminating the need for heat lamps. However, a heat lamp is the easiest and least expensive way to create temperature variation, so it’s arguably the best option for novice python keepers.

Heat lamps are useful, but there are other options. Let’s look at when heat lamps are useful, why pythons need them, and other ways to give them a temperature gradient.

Optimum temperatures for ball pythons

Ball pythons are cold-blooded, so they need an external source of heat to maintain their body temperature, which would be the sun or a hot rock in nature. This is vital to their metabolism and overall health. If you provide them with multiple heat sources in captivity, they can self-regulate their body temperature as they would in the wild.

In your ball python’s enclosure, you need an ambient temperature of 82-86 degrees F, with a sunspot on one side of 95-105 degrees F. At night, the ambient temperature should ideally drop to 72-78 degrees F. It is highly recommended to keep the temperature consistent keeping an eye on a good quality thermometer and having a timer that will turn off the heater you are using if temperatures get too high. One of the easiest ways to provide this sunspot and temperature gradient is with a heat lamp, but there are other options.

Heating your ball python’s enclosure

When it comes to maintaining the right temperature in your python’s enclosure, there are several options. The best way to maintain a constant ambient temperature is with an under tank heater, but if you live in a warm area with fairly constant temperatures this may not be necessary. Inexpensive, reliable, and easily found online or in pet stores, these heaters closely mimic what your python would experience in the wild. Heating tape is also a good option, although it’s usually more expensive.

A combination of under tank heating combined with a heat lamp and controlled by a thermostat is probably the best way to heat your snake’s enclosure.

Do ball pythons need a heat lamp?

Even if the temperature in your home is in the right range, you need to maintain a consistent temperature year-round, so a heat lamp is a great idea for keeping your snake’s enclosure warm. Heat lamps differ from fluorescent or LED lights, which are used more for viewing purposes, in that they generate a significant amount of heat. Even without an under-tank heater, a heat lamp can usually provide all the heat your python needs. Of course, this also depends on the size of your aquarium and you need to make sure you get an appropriately sized lamp. A lamp with too high a wattage for your case could easily damage your Python.

You will need to place the bulb about 6 inches from the top of your Python’s body, ideally with a mesh screen between the bulb and the tank to avoid burns. It’s also a good idea to place moss or moisture-absorbing cypress mulch on the same side as your heat lamp, as this can also help maintain humidity in the tank, an important factor in your python’s overall health.

One of the main disadvantages of heat lamps is the light bulb. If you’ve set your lamp on a timer to mimic day/night cycles, this constant turning on and off can stress the bulb and it can burn out fairly quickly, meaning you’ll have to replace it every few months.

Do ball pythons need a day/night cycle?

Ball pythons are largely nocturnal, and although many python owners claim that a day/night cycle is unnecessary for a python, it mimics their life in the wild. A standard 12 hour on/off cycle is best – unless you intend to breed – because it gives them consistency, encourages natural behavior, and is easy to maintain with a simple, inexpensive timer. Without this constant cycle, your python can become stressed and even cause eating problems, especially if your python is used to some degree of darkness.

Of course, this day/night cycle would mean that your heat lamps would have to be turned off at night, and that’s why many people leave the lights on all the time. This is easily solved with a heating pad that maintains the ambient temperature while the lamp is off.

Final Thoughts

While ball pythons may not need a heat lamp, there are many benefits to using one. Maintaining the required temperature gradient for your enclosure is easy with a heat lamp. It also provides a nice basking spot for thermoregulation, can help maintain humidity, and generally helps keep your python’s aquarium warm.

Selected image source: BikerPhoto, Shutterstock

For reptiles, sunlight is life. Reptiles are literally solar powered; Every aspect of their lives is driven by their daily experience of sunlight and warmth, or the artificial equivalent when housed indoors. Proper lighting is essential for a healthy captive reptile.

Infrared and visible light effects on reptiles

The spectrum of sunlight includes infrared, “visible” light (the colors we see in rainbows), and ultraviolet light, which is broken down into UVA, UVB, and UVC. Very short wavelength light from the sun (UVC and short wavelength UVB) is dangerous to animals’ skin and eyes and is blocked by the atmosphere. Natural sunlight ranges from about 290 to 295 nanometers, which is in the UVB range, to more than 5,000 nanometers, which is in the far infrared (heat) range.

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Infrared light is heat from the sun, and basking reptiles are extremely efficient at absorbing infrared radiation through their skin. This part of the light spectrum is invisible to humans and most reptiles, but some snakes can see the longer wavelengths (over 5,000 nanometers) through their facial pit organs. Ceramic heaters and heating mats only emit infrared. Incandescent lamps emit infrared and visible light. Some red incandescent bulbs are referred to as “infrared” bulbs, but these also emit red visible light.

Visible light, including UVA, is essential. Many reptiles have extremely good color vision. Humans have three types of retinal cone cells for color vision, and their brain combines the information from these cells and perceives the mixture as a specific color. However, most reptiles have a fourth type of cone that responds to UVA. These reptiles see a much more colorful rainbow than humans, making providing natural light quite a challenge. This additional color perception is particularly important for many reptile species in order to recognize conspecifics and even food.

Some nocturnal geckos lack the red-sensitive cone, but their green-sensitive cone also responds to red light; you can surely see it. Studies have even shown that some use their cone types for color vision in light similar to the faint moonlight. So it is possible that “moonlight blue” or “red night light” lamps, which are usually much brighter than moonlight, change the way these animals see the twilight world.

Sunlight also has effects that have nothing to do with conscious vision. A reptile’s eyes, and the parietal eye (third eye) in the species that have one, transmit information to other parts of its brain responsible for setting circadian (daily) and circannual (annual) rhythms. There are even light-sensitive areas of the reptilian brain that respond directly to sunlight shining through the skull. The length of day and night, the position of the sun in the sky and the intensity and blue component of the sunlight provide precise information about the time of day and year. In response, a reptile will adjust its activity level and daily and seasonal behaviors, such as feeding. B. its reproductive cycle and thermoregulation needs. Even nocturnal species control their behavior by monitoring day and night from their daytime hiding places.

No artificial lighting system in the world can deliver the full spectrum and intensity of natural sunlight, its subtle color changes throughout the day, or the sun’s movement across the sky. For these reasons alone, the more natural daylight a reptile experiences, the better. “Natural daylight” doesn’t always mean full sunlight; a herpkeeper must aim for species-appropriate lighting.

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See the Reptile Light difference

Humans have three types of cones for color vision. A blue-sensitive cone allows us to see from around 400 nanometers (purple), and our green- and red-sensitive cones respond to light down to nearly 700 nanometers (red).

Photo by Frances M. Baines This melamine-fronted vivarium, measuring 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet high, demonstrates adequate lighting for Chuckwallas (Sauromalus ater). The main basking area combines light from an 80 watt household PAR38 tungsten flood and a 100 watt Reptile UV MegaRay SB mercury vapor lamp. Another household flood lamp illuminates the secondary basking spot. Four artificial caves offer protection in different temperature zones

However, most diurnal lizards have a fourth type of cone that responds to UVA. For example, the eyes of a red-eared slider (Trachemys [Pseudemys] scripta elegans) perceive all colors that humans recognize, as well as higher wavelength UVA radiation (starting at 350 nanometers) and lower wavelength infrared radiation (down to about 750 nanometers). This extra perception will almost certainly add additional colors to the turtle’s rainbow. Some nocturnal geckos, such as Hemidactylus turcicus, lack the red-sensitive cone. While they can’t tell red from green, they can certainly see it the same way color blind people can. Geckos have excellent color vision in other parts of the spectrum. For example, they can distinguish blue from brown in extremely low light, where humans see no color at all. See Figure 4.

Reptile UVB Light

Ever wondered why basking lizards flatten themselves to increase their surface area, or why tortoises and tortoises bask with their necks and legs outstretched, or why shade-dwelling and crepuscular species typically have thinner, more translucent skin that allows for deeper penetration of diffused and reflected light? This is because sunlight has a direct effect on exposed reptile skin.

Ad Photo by Frances M. Baines A reptile uses information such as light intensity and color, and the length of day and night to adjust its behavior to changing seasons.

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UVB in sunlight has a direct effect on the skin’s immune system and can also stimulate the production of beta-endorphins, which give sunlight its feel-good factor. However, this region of the light spectrum is best known for its role in skin synthesis of vitamin D3. For this to happen, sunlight must contain UVB in wavelengths ranging from 290 nanometers to about 315 nanometers. Most glasses and plastics block these wavelengths, and the atmosphere also partially blocks them, so the sun has to be fairly high in the sky for significant levels of UVB to be found in sunlight. But even at higher latitudes, including the northern US states and most of Europe, there is ample UVB from morning to afternoon with sunshine from April to September and from early morning to late afternoon in mid-Summer (mid-May to late July). for vitamin D3 synthesis ).

Photo by Frances M. Baines As this diagram shows, the full solar spectrum of light is important to reptile health. advertisement

The synthesis of vitamin D3 in reptiles requires both heat and ultraviolet light. UVB converts a cholesterol in the skin to pre-D3 and this is converted to vitamin D3 very quickly when a reptile is at its optimum temperature. The vitamin is toxic in large amounts, which is one reason it can be risky to give as a dietary supplement (always follow the manufacturer’s directions regarding supplementation), but reptiles never produce too much D3 in their skin when basking . Natural higher wavelength UVB and UVA concentrations prevent overproduction. They convert excess pre-D3 and vitamin D3 into harmless by-products once they start to build up.

Several manufacturers make UVB emitting lamps for reptiles. Measuring the UV intensity of a reptile lamp at various distances is one way to assess the lamp’s value in terms of its ability to support vitamin D3 synthesis and its safety (excessive radiation can be harmful to a reptile’s skin and eyes be). This UV intensity can be categorized using the UV Index, the same scale that weather forecasters use, and accurate meters designed for lamp measurement must be used (the sensors on inexpensive UV Index meters used to measure Sunlight do not register harmful non-terrestrial, short-wave UVB ). Herpkeeper can find UV Index records for a variety of lamps on the UV Guide UK website: uvguide.co.uk.

Photo by Frances M. Baines A UV transmissive skylight helps illuminate the Komodo dragon enclosure at ZSL London Zoo in the UK.

The maximum UV index appropriate for each species must be determined based on knowledge of the reptile’s microhabitat in the wild. Reptiles that remain shaded or only bask in the early morning or late evening sun require far lower levels than species that bask in the late morning tropical sun.

Photo by Frances M. Baines Lamp Position – All light sources should be over a reptile’s head – not to the side

Reptile outdoor and indoor lighting

Within each ecological niche, different species have evolved behaviors and body traits that allow them to harness the sun’s full-spectrum light in the most efficient way. Many reptiles benefit from outdoor enclosures when ambient temperatures are appropriate. Whether or not they require direct sunlight depends on the species, but all species require access to full shade and shelter.

Sometimes aspects of outdoor lighting can be brought indoors. Room-sized canopies can be fitted with skylights and windows glazed with special UV-transmitting acrylic or glass. Trade names for such UV transmissive products include Perspex, Plexiglas and Lucite (acrylic) and Starphire (low iron glass), all of which must be specially ordered. Even then, additional UVB may be needed. The accumulation of heat from direct sunlight through glass must also not be ignored.

Photo by Frances M. Baines Does that look safe to you? The temperature of the substrate under this sunlamp may be perfect, but the turtle’s shell is nearly 10 inches closer than that on the lamp. Consider the size of your reptile when checking temperatures.

Unfortunately, comparatively few reptiles in captivity truly experience natural light. Most are indoors and behind glass, and they rely on artificial light to get around their day. Adequate light in captivity is best provided by mimicking the reptile’s natural environment, including a temperature gradient, as found in the species’ microhabitat. These determinations allow the reptile to decide how much heat, visible light and UV radiation it will experience each day.

Artificial sunlight options for reptiles

Most lizards and turtles, as well as many snakes, require high levels of full-spectrum lighting that must contain UVB and UVA. Herpkeepers must aim to use the lamps available to provide pets with their specific lighting needs.

Incandescent bulbs (tungsten or halogen) provide excellent heat and visible light for a sun pitch and can be thermostatically controlled. Standard Type A light bulbs or floodlights with a beam angle of at least 30 degrees work well. Their predominantly red-yellow light is low in blue light and UVA, and they emit no UVB. These make a great complement to any UVB emitting reptile lamps that have little red or yellow light. Incandescent bulbs connected to timers can create a simple dawn and dusk effect. Timers can turn them on just before the UVB lights and off just after.

Photo by Frances M. Baines Incandescent lamps (A), “daylight” fluorescent lamps (B), UVB fluorescent lamps (C), mercury vapor lamps (D), and UVB metal halide lamps (E) are among the bulbs used in reptile husbandry.

“Daylight” fluorescent lights are sometimes referred to as “full spectrum” lights, but they do not produce enough UVB for vitamin D3 synthesis in reptiles. Some brands produce trace amounts of UVB and some UVA. They can be useful for improving the overall light level in cooler areas of a vivarium.

Fluorescent UVB tubes produce diffuse, low levels of UVB that resemble outdoor shade on a sunny day. They emit less visible light than other lamp types. These tubes are suitable for supplying UVB to species that do not bask in sunlight, such as some shade dwellers in the forest, or for small enclosures where the heat from mercury vapor lamps would cause thermal gradient problems. Always combine them with a better visible light source. Quality tubes emit light with a UV index between about 0.5 and 1.0 (sunlight in the tropics before 7:30am) at 12 inches (the usual recommended maximum distance) and need to be replaced every year.

UVB compact fluorescent lamps produce diffuse, low UVB values ​​even when exposed to sunlight. However, at close range and/or when using reflectors, light and UVB can be intense, making good positioning difficult. These lamps degrade faster than tubes and may need to be replaced after six months.

Some brands of reptile fluorescent lamps, both compact and tubular types, have been found to emit dangerous shortwave UVB. These have caused eye problems such as photokeratoconjunctivitis. Some manufacturers who have experienced the problem say they have fixed the issue, while others are still tackling it. However, if your reptile develops swollen eyes or refuses to open them soon after a new lamp is installed, see your herp vet immediately. You might want to refer him or her to this article. Lamp placement, the lamp itself and/or other factors could be responsible.

Mercury vapor lamps vary in quality and UVB output. These bulbs also generate significant heat and cannot be thermostatically controlled, making them best suited for large enclosures. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and instructions for proper lamp placement and spacing. Several types of mercury vapor lamps are available. Inexpensive spotlights with clear glass faces can produce extremely narrow, dangerous beams of intense UV light and are best avoided. Floodlights have much wider beams and are ideal for reptiles that naturally bask in the sun. They create a zone of bright light and UVB directly under the lamp that resembles a small sunspot. Brands differ in their UV index. Records range from about 2.0 (full tropical sun before 8:30 a.m.) to 7.0 (full tropical sun between 9:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m.) within the solar range.

Metal halide lamps are quickly finding their place in, or rather above, the vivarium. Like mercury vapor lamps, metal halides are best for large enclosures and cannot be used with a thermostat. Most do not produce UVB. “Daylight” variants with a color temperature between 5,500 and 6,500 Kelvin are the best choice for creating the look of sunlight. With careful use, these lamps are excellent for simulating bright daylight in a large vivarium in combination with a UVB lamp. However, they require an external ballast and their positioning is crucial. At close range, the visible light is extremely intense and never look directly into the lamp. Manufacturers are developing UVB-emitting metal halides specifically designed for reptiles, and early test results look promising. Although the UV Index range can vary by brand, some sample lamps I used for UV Guide U.K. tested light with a UV index between 2.5 and 5.0 (full tropical sun between 8:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m.) at 18 inches out.

For reptiles, sunlight is life. Artificial sunshine is not ideal, but there are now many combinations of lamps, light bulbs and tubes. If used with care and sensitivity, they will go a long way towards meeting the needs of all captive reptiles.

Mystery in the Shape – One of the most important characteristics that determines the usefulness of a UVB lamp is the shape of its UV gradient or UV footprint in the sun’s area. Ideally, the whole reptile should receive heat, light and UVB when basking. The following iso-irradiance charts show the UV index curves for several lamps. The charts are all on the same scale, and each lamp is placed 12 inches above the turtle or iguana’s eye level, a distance often recommended by manufacturers.

Lighting advice for reptiles

Trust that your reptile knows what it needs. Reptiles are extremely competent at deciding how much heat, visible light, and ultraviolet radiation they need at any given time. Captive reptiles require a sufficiently large, species-appropriate microhabitat with appropriate heat, light, and UVB histories, shelter, and basking areas to allow them to choose their preferences just as they would in the wild.

Reptiles are extremely competent at deciding how much heat, visible light, and ultraviolet radiation they need at any given time. Captive reptiles require a sufficiently large, species-appropriate microhabitat with appropriate heat, light, and UVB histories, shelter, and basking areas to allow them to choose their preferences just as they would in the wild. UVB, UVA, visible light and heat belong together. Since vitamin D3 synthesis in reptiles only occurs in warm skin that is exposed to UVB, ideally there needs to be a UVB lamp over the sun area. Pairing the UVB source with the sun lamp is always a winning combination.

Since vitamin D3 synthesis in reptiles only occurs in warm skin that is exposed to UVB, ideally there needs to be a UVB lamp over the sun area. Pairing the UVB source with the sun lamp is always a winning combination. Like the sun, lamps should be up. Reptiles have eyebrow ridges and some upper eyelids for a reason: they shade the surface of the eyes. All light sources should always be directly above a reptile’s head, not to the side. Lights shining sideways into his eyes are stressful (remember driving a car toward the setting sun). Intense visible light as well as UVA and UVB radiation can also seriously damage the eyes.

Reptiles have eyebrow ridges and some upper eyelids for a reason: they shade the surface of the eyes. All light sources should always be directly above a reptile’s head, not to the side. Lights shining sideways into his eyes are stressful (remember driving a car toward the setting sun). Intense visible light as well as UVA and UVB radiation can also seriously damage the eyes. Keep a respectful distance. In the author’s opinion, no lamp or tube should be closer than 15 cm from the reptile, even if positioned directly above the head. Heat lamps usually require much longer distances than this. At close range, many lamps are frankly dangerous. Most quality UVB lamps have recommended minimum and maximum distances that must be carefully observed.

In the author’s opinion, no lamp or tube should be closer than 15 cm from the reptile, even if positioned directly above the head. Heat lamps usually require much longer distances than this. At close range, many lamps are frankly dangerous. Most quality UVB lamps have recommended minimum and maximum distances that must be carefully observed. Please no stains! Sunny places should be sunny zones. A reptile’s entire body must fit within the brightly lit, high temperature area of ​​the sun. Floodlights are essential. Narrow point lamps may only heat a small patch of skin, which can become dangerously hot, while leaving the rest of the body cold. The unfortunate creature can stay where it is, try to keep warming itself, and suffer burns.

Sunny places should be sunny zones. A reptile’s entire body must fit within the brightly lit, high temperature area of ​​the sun. Floodlights are essential. Narrow point lamps may only heat a small patch of skin, which can become dangerously hot, while leaving the rest of the body cold. The unfortunate creature can stay where it is, try to keep warming itself, and suffer burns. Always check your temperatures. It is important to check the temperatures reached under a lamp. Consider the height of the head and shoulders of a lizard or the shell of a turtle.

It is important to check the temperatures reached under a lamp. Consider the height of the head and shoulders of a lizard or the shell of a turtle. Allow reptiles to set their patterns. Reptiles rely on a specific day and night to set their circadian rhythm. The day must be bright; The night must be dark. Use timers to provide the correct photoperiod for the species. When nighttime warmth is needed, ceramic heaters or back-wall mounted heater mats are better than night lamps.

I would like to like Janette Beveridge, John Binns, Gary Ferguson, William Gehrmann and A.J. Gutman for their most helpful comments and suggestions.

VIEW OUR SELECTION OF COLLAGEN SUN LOUNGERS

When tanning salons first opened in the 1970s, there was only one type of tanning bed available to customers. Today it’s three. UV tanning beds, red light tanning beds, and collagen tanning beds are all available for both personal and commercial use, but what’s the difference between them and what type of tanning bed is best when it comes to getting a natural looking tan to get?

Interestingly, while red light and collagen beds are often referred to as tanning beds, they are not tanning beds at all. In fact, none of these beds produce a tan. However, they look similar to tanning beds and work in a similar way, so the three are often grouped together.

Read on for a simple introduction to UV, red light, and collagen beds to help you decide which option best suits your needs:

UV beds

UV beds are what usually spring to mind when thinking of tanning beds. These are solariums that emit UV light – both UVA (with a wavelength of 320-400 nm) and UVB (with a wavelength of 290-315 nm), but no UVC. Both UVA and UVB light contribute to the development of a tan. UVA causes an immediate effect, while UVB is known for a delayed tan, where the effect develops more slowly over several days. UVB can also help increase vitamin D levels in the body for numerous health benefits. According to Harvard Health, UV tanning beds produce far more UVA than UVB, which is why this type of bed is so popular and creates an instant holiday glow.

Light: Mainly UVA and some UVB

Tan?: Yes, both immediate and gradual effects

Safe?: Yes, although overuse can increase risk

red light beds

Red light beds do not produce a tan. In fact, they don’t emit any UV light at all. Red light therapy, ironically also known as red light tanning, uses LED light strips to emit a low-wavelength red LED light. This is outside of the UV wavelength range and does not stimulate melanin production, which creates that summery glow. Instead, the wavelength penetrates deep into the skin and energizes the mitochondria. Known as the “powerhouses of the cell,” mitochondria help cells repair and heal. Research suggests that red light beds can help with pain relief, wound healing and inflammation, and can even help hair look thick and luscious.

Light: LED low level red light

Tan?: No. Used for full body rejuvenation

Safe?: Yes, minimal risks or side effects

collagen beds

Collagen beds are a mix between the traditional tanning bed (they use regular tanning bed lamps instead of LED strips) and red light beds (they emit a faint red light rather than UV radiation). These beds don’t create a tan, but instead increase collagen levels in the skin, which can help address common skin problems and minimize signs of aging. Studies have found that this type of therapy results in “greater expression of collagen and elastic fibers,” particularly types I and III, found in the skin. Because collagen is essential for maintaining a strong bond between the different layers of skin, maintaining optimal levels can improve complexion and reduce wrinkles and sagging.

Light: Low red light

Browning?: No. Used to strengthen collagen and improve skin elasticity

Safe?: Yes, minimal risks or side effects

Why beds?

A frequently asked question is why red light therapy and collagen therapy have to be performed in a solarium. And the answer is they don’t. In fact, there are many different handheld devices that can be used to achieve the same effects.

However, the UV tanning form remains the most popular choice for red light therapy and collagen therapy. Why? There are two main reasons. The first reason is everything to do with comfort. Because red light and collagen therapies do not emit harmful UV radiation, sessions can last longer than traditional tanning sessions, typically lasting up to 20 minutes. These extended sessions mean that user comfort is very important. Sun lounger-style tables with integrated fans and built-in audio systems help create a much more soothing, relaxing, and all-around enjoyable experience.

The second reason is convenience. Red light therapy in particular is widely used for full body rejuvenation, and collagen therapy can benefit skin all over the body. Handheld devices only target a small area at a time, which can make it very time-consuming to conduct a full head-to-toe session. Solarium-style tables can target the entire body at once, making red light and collagen therapy faster and easier.

Note: This applies to most if not all lizards, but not necessarily snakes and possibly turtles as their eyes are different.

The idea behind the red lightbulbs was that reptiles cannot see the red spectrum of light. With that in mind, the idea was that you could leave the red light on all night to keep them warm, but not keep them awake.

It’s now fairly well accepted that it’s false as there hasn’t been any research to back up the claim and research has shown that although reptiles see things differently than we do, they are capable of color and light to watch (if you watch TV with your dragon, you may notice him watching it with you).

So not giving your lizard a really nice place to hide from the light will prevent it from getting a good night’s sleep. Think of it like sleeping in a room with lights on every night. You may be able to sleep, but you may not sleep quite as well as you would without the light.

As for the red lights during the day, in my opinion they are just colored lights and I am not aware of any long-term effects when used as daylight. But they don’t emit UV light and probably don’t emit enough heat for a bearded dragon, so they’re practically useless.

For a bearded dragon you will need a good UV light meant for desert reptiles and a good heat lamp that will keep the sunny side at around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Personally, I use ReptiSun 10.0 UV lamps (the straight tube, not the coils) and a ceramic bulb for the sun section.

I used to use regular 100 watt bulbs for my sun lamp and they worked fine. However, they burned out too quickly for my liking (about once a month), so I switched to a ceramic lamp.

The emerging ball pythons have always been a cornerstone of reptile pets. They are a docile species that do not grow very large, are long lived (25-30 years or more) and are very easy to care for. In the 1990s, genetic variations called morphs began to emerge and captive breeding of this species became more popular. Because it was much easier to get captive-bred hatchlings to eat, captive breeding eventually became the standard and wild-caught specimens became less and less desirable. Over the next few decades, a few initial genetic morphs turned into hundreds of combinations of genes, resulting in colors and patterns never seen before. Through selective breeding, you can now find ball pythons that are all white with blue eyes, greyish purple and yellow, orange and lavender, and patterned with stripes, spots, and many other amazing combinations of patterns and colors. As more and more people have come to keep and breed these amazing snakes, they have become one of the most kept reptile pets in the world.

Habitat Ball pythons are found in sub-Saharan Africa in countries such as Mali, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, Ghana, Cameroon, Chad and Uganda. Most of their habitat are dry grasslands, savannas and forest edges. These terrestrial snakes typically hide in burrows and other underground lairs, where they avoid and estivate (summer dormancy) the African heat. The burrows they hide in are often former dwellings of the native opossums that the ball pythons used to hunt. Depending on temperatures, these snakes can spend up to 22 hours a day in their burrows, only coming out to warm up and hunt or find water.

Temperature and Humidity It is important to create a thermal gradient (a warm side and a cool side) in the cage/enclosure. This can be done with an appropriately sized Zilla heater mat, which attaches to the bottom of the tank on one side and adds adequate lighting. Ideal temperatures for ball pythons range from 75-80°F on the cool side and 80-85°F on the warm side. On the warm side, provide a basking range of 88-92°F. Using a Zilla Low Profile Dual Fixture with a Zilla 50W Mini Halogen Lamp and a Zilla Tropical Mini Compact Fluorescent UVB Lamp will provide the right heat and UV radiation for your ball python to thrive. While ball pythons do not require UVB to survive, UVA/UVB light has been shown to greatly improve the immune system, health and well-being of all reptiles, both during the day and at dusk. Be sure to place the light over the side with the heating mat to create the warm side of the thermal gradient. Spot clean the enclosure of uric acid and feces once a week. Remove all substrate every 3 months to clean and disinfect the tank and decor.

Feeding and Diet In the wild, Ball Pythons prey on small mammals such as rodents and small birds. Most hatchlings can be started with bouncy mice or fuzzy rats once a week. Food can be gradually increased as needed. Most adult ball pythons can be fed small to medium-sized adult rats once every 7-10 days. A general rule of thumb when feeding snakes is to provide prey items that are about as wide as the snake’s widest part. It should be noted that these snakes regularly refuse food for long periods of time, especially in the winter months. While this can be alarming, it is not uncommon. During this time their weight should be monitored to ensure they do not become underweight or starve.

Snakes love to bask in the sun during the day. As a reptile owner, you may be wondering if snakes also need lights at night to keep them as safe and comfortable as possible.

Snakes don’t need lights at night. They benefit from a day-night rhythm, so they need light during the day and darkness at night. If the light is left on during the night, the snake could become stressed and lethargic and stop feeding.

Read on to learn more about the peculiarities that come with giving lights to snakes at night. They need warmth and light to survive, but only at certain times of the day.

Why snakes don’t need lights at night

Snakes don’t need lights at night, as they benefit most from a fixed day-night rhythm. Light would only confuse them and lengthen the day. Your snake will have trouble becoming comfortable in this environment as there is no clear distinction between active and resting phases.

Most snakes do well at night without lights. This choice keeps them healthy and active in their habitat without added stressors. Light is necessary but can be disruptive to the snake if used incorrectly. You won’t die, but other problems may arise.

If you don’t give your snake a proper day-night cycle, several negative effects can occur. They might get stressed in their enclosure as sleeping becomes more difficult for them, especially if they don’t have skins that offer completely dark spots.

Your entire system becomes confused as snakes and other reptiles associate light with warmth and no light with “time to hide and sleep.”

This stress can then lead to loss of appetite and lethargy, i.e. lack of energy. This trait will be visible in your snake’s activity level.

To avoid these negative effects, turn off your snake’s lights at night. Each snake needs a different amount of lighting during the day, which we’ll discuss later. Proper exposure of your snake is vital to its health.

Do snakes need a heat lamp at night?

There is a lot of conflicting information online about whether or not you should leave a snake heat lamp on at night. Although snakes benefit from warmth at night when the temperature gets too low, the heat lamp is not the best method of keeping them warm after dark.

To mimic their natural surroundings as closely as possible, turn off the heat lamp at night. Other alternatives don’t emit as much light. The light from a heat lamp can confuse your snake, so use a second option for best results.

During the day, you can use multiple heat sources to keep your snake warm. During the night you should switch to one so as not to confuse your snake with the extra light. Heat and lighting do not have to occur together in a habitat.

It’s important to give your snake the opportunity to come out of the light whenever it wants by offering skins that mimic the skins they find in nature.

Heat lamp alternatives for the night

If you want to provide a nighttime heat alternative that differs from a heat lamp, there are several options in the reptile keeping world to choose from. All of them are excellent choices and affordable options.

The worst option: red lights

Infrared heat lamps work the same as regular heat lamps, but do not emit a red glow. These are better for your snake if you leave them on at night. Despite this, we do not recommend them as red light can be harmful to reptiles as it can penetrate their skin.

under tank heaters

Heating pads under the tank will warm the floor of your habitat, providing your snake with a warm and cozy place to stay. These need to be applied to the outside of your tank to warm the area.

These are a great option! In combination with a thermostat, you can easily regulate the temperature.

We recommend combining this heating pad here with this thermostat to control the temperature.

Ceramic radiant heaters

Finally, there are ceramic heaters. These will warm the room without a light source, so your snake won’t be kept awake at night by the light emitted by the device.

These sources work in conjunction with a heat lamp. When night comes, turn off the heat lamp and prioritize one of these items as a heat source for your snake.

Ceramic heaters are loved by all reptile keepers who have tried them. They are cheap, work without any problems and are not complicated to use. We recommend buying this ceramic radiant heater here.

The 60 W version is sufficient for smaller tanks.

If you have a larger tank, the 100W version might be a better choice.

Common pet snakes and their light and temperature recommendations

Common pet snakes do they need a light? How much light per day? Temperature at night Temperature during the day ball python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 75 F 75-80 F Rosy Boa No, but it is recommended for environmental imitation. Varies as they spend the day in hiding 72 F 75-80 F Corn Snake No, but recommended for environmental imitation. 12 hours 68 F 78-80 F Redtail Boa Yes, they need light. 12 hours 70-80 F 80-85 F Green Tree Python No, but recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 70-80 F 78-88 F California Kingsnake No, but recommended for environmental imitations. 10 hours 72 F 88-90 F Gopher Snake Yes, they need light. 14 hours 72 F 85-88 F Western Hognose Snake Yes, they need light. 14 hours 75 F 75-85 F Milk Snake No, but it is recommended for environmental imitations. 8 hours 75-82 F 80-85 F Dumeril’s Boa No, but it is recommended for environmental imitation. 11 hours 70-75 F 80-85 F Garter Snake Yes, they need light. 10 hours 73 F 85-88 F Rubber Boa No, but recommended for environmental imitations. Natural Cycle 50-70 F 75-85 F Kenyan Sand Boa No, but recommended for environmental mimics. 10 hours 80 F 85-95 F Carpet Python Yes, they need light. 11 hours 70-75 F 80-85 F African House Snake Yes, they need light. 13 hours 70-75 F 85-90 F Woma Python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 70-75 F 85-90 F Rough Green Snake Yes, they need light. 10 hours 70-75 F 80-85 F Child Python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 12 hours 70-75 F 88-90 F Brazilian Rainbow Boa Yes, they need light. 10 hours 75-80 F 85-90 F Burmese Python No, but it is recommended for mimicking the environment. 14 hours 78-84F 84-92F

Understand your snake

In order to offer your snake the most comfortable living space possible, you should know what temperatures it feels most comfortable in, how much light it needs and what warmth it prefers. This knowledge will enable you to give your snake the best life possible.

Snakes prefer a day-night rhythm that they can always rely on. Giving this to your reptile is sure to make them enjoy their time with you.

temperatures

Because ball pythons are reptiles, they are cold-blooded, which means they rely on their surroundings for the heat they need to regulate their metabolism. If temperatures or humidity drop, the snake may stop feeding.

Python regius is native to Africa’s tropical savannah climate zone, where average temperatures range between 68 and 86 degrees F (20-30 degrees C) throughout the year, with occasional peaks of up to 96 degrees F (35 degrees C) or higher. Keep in mind, however, that ball pythons prefer to live in dens where temperatures are cooler and more stable than outdoors.

Surface Temperature: 95-104°F (35-40°C)

35-40°C (95-104°F) warm skin temperature: 30-32°C (86-90°F)

30-32°C (86-90°F) Chill skin temperature: 22-27°C (72-80°F)

22-27°C (72-80°F) Night temperature: 21-26°C (70-78°F)

Note the difference between surface temperature and air temperature. Surface temperature is measured on the sun’s surface (substrate, flat rock, etc.) and can only be measured with an infrared temperature gun such as the Etekcity 774. Air temperature can only be measured with a traditional digital thermometer such as the Zoo Med Digital Thermometer. Just because a surface is hot doesn’t mean the air is hot – have you ever touched a piece of metal on a sunny day? Even when the air temperature is mild, the surface temperature of the metal can get quite hot. The general air temperature in a ball python’s enclosure should never exceed 35°C (95°F)!

Temperatures can usually drop to room temperature at night with no ill effects and may actually be more beneficial to the snake’s long-term health. So save some on your electricity bills by turning off heat sources at night when your home isn’t too cold.

If your home gets too cold at night, you need a lightless radiant heat source to warm the air, e.g. B. a ceramic heater, a radiant heat plate or a deep heat projector.

There are a few ways to keep your ball python at the right temperature…

BEST FOR DAYTIME: Halogen Flood Heat Lamp

Heat lamps are a controversial source of heat for ball pythons, but in nature, heat comes from above (the sun), not below (the ground). In fact, reptiles retreat underground to escape the heat, not to get warmer. So while heat mats and heating tape are the most commonly used heat sources for ball pythons, they are unnatural and encourage unnatural behavior. Heat lamps solve this problem by heating both the air and the ground underneath.

If you’re using a glass terrarium or other mesh-covered enclosure (e.g. Maximum Reptile, Zen Habitats), I recommend using a dome-style heat lamp mount with a ceramic socket and a built-in lamp dimmer, like the Zoo Med Combo Deep Dome Dual Lamp Light. In this way, the mesh forms a barrier between the onion and the snake, preventing burns. Also, using two bulbs instead of one creates a larger basking area that is better able to evenly heat your ball python’s body.

Be sure to buy white or clear lightbulbs instead of red, blue, black, or any other color you’ve found. My favorite halogen flood heat lamp for 4x2x2 screen top cases is a 90w PAR38 halogen flood heat lamp without the hex lens. If you can’t get halogen floodlights in your area, the Arcadia halogen, Zoo Med Repti halogen and Exo Terra halogen bulbs are fair alternatives.

Reptile brand heat lamps are small enough to be installed in a reptile enclosure if necessary, although I do not recommend this if it can be avoided. If the light bulb needs to be installed inside the case, you need such a lamp cage to avoid burns.

What wattage should you use?

This is a common question with no solid answer, sorry! The wattage you need depends on the room temperature, case height and other factors. What works for one may not always work for another, which is why I like dimmable heat lamps so much. When in doubt, try the higher wattage bulb first and dim as needed.

If your room temperature tends to fluctuate depending on the time of year, you might want to consider purchasing a proportional thermostat like the Herpstat EZ1, which is the best performing proportional stat in the US for its price. Unlike non-proportional thermostats, which turn a heat source on and off to maintain the target temperature (this can be very annoying if you’re using a light-based heat source), proportional thermostats simply dim the heat source instead.

PRO TIP: Beware of “eco-friendly” lightbulbs. These bulbs advertise high wattage but actually use fewer watts while maintaining the same light output as the advertised wattage. This is great for household lighting, but in a reptile enclosure you need the heat provided by additional energy use. If you can’t find a good light bulb, a reptile day bulb from a pet store will work, although it will likely have a shorter lifespan.

For best results, place a large, flat slab of rock (rock slab or similar) along with the warm skin directly under the heat lamp. This is the perfect way to create an ideal lying surface. It also helps transfer heat to the warm fur, which should be placed just below the sunning rock (I find black plastic skin boxes work GREAT for this). If your warm fur still isn’t getting warm enough, you need help from a thermostatically controlled heat mat.

GOOD: Heat pad

Many snake keepers use a heat pad that covers about 1/3 of the floor area of ​​the terrarium as their primary heat source of choice. However, I prefer and recommend using heat packs as a secondary heat source to ensure warm skin stays at an optimal temperature.

Fluker’s and Ultratherm are the most popular, and mats designed for seed germination have also been used successfully.

Whatever you choose, remember that heating pads have an uncomfortable tendency to overheat, so be sure to buy a thermostat along with it so you don’t accidentally burn your snake. Most people prefer the low cost of non-proportional thermostats for use with heating pads like Jump Start and Vivosun. For something of higher quality and with a much lower chance of failure (read: safer) consider the Herpstat EZ1.

Once you have placed your heat pad 1″ below the substrate under your snake’s warm skin and connected it to the thermostat, place the thermostat’s probe into your ball python’s warm skin and rest on the substrate. By placing the probe at your snake’s level, you know and can control exactly what temperature it is experiencing.

I once made the mistake of using a heating pad without a thermostat and it not only warped the plastic tub but also changed the color of the wood underneath. The snake was luckily safe, but I had unknowingly kept a major fire hazard in my reptile room during those months.

OKAY: radiant heat panel

Like a heat lamp, but weaker. These are generally preferred by large snake keepers or keepers with particularly large enclosures, as radiant heat panels are excellent at creating large areas of heat. Since they are installed on top of the case, the risk of burns/fire is reduced compared to heating mats or heating tape. Heating panels must be regulated by a proportional (dimming) thermostat to be safe to use.

Hotplates can be purchased from Reptile Basics.

DO NOT USE HEATING STONES!

For some reason, there are still heat stones on the market, recommended by pet shops as a “safe” source of heat for your snake. Although security improvements have been made in recent years, they are still dangerous. Also, they are not a good choice for heating your enclosure as they only heat the rock, not the surrounding air.

humidity

Ball pythons need some moisture to maintain respiratory health and molt properly. In the wild, average humidity is roughly between 45 and 75%, with dips of up to 30% and peaks of up to 90%. Humidity in your enclosure should generally be between 45 and 75%, although occasional brief dips and spikes are unlikely to be harmful.

Keep an eye on temperature and humidity with a digital thermometer/hygrometer – the humidity probe should be placed in the center of the case to monitor the average humidity level, although it helps to have another humidity probe in the wet fur to ensure that it stays moist.

Of course, even if you use the right substrate, maintaining high humidity can be difficult, especially if you live in an arid climate or if the enclosure is well ventilated. Here are some tips:

Use a thick layer of substrate – at least 4″. The more substrate you have, the more moisture it can absorb.

– at least 4″. The more substrate you have, the more moisture it can absorb. Take time each week to manually mix or water the substrate until it is moist but not wet. While spraying only touches the surface, moisture in the substrate stabilizes humidity for longer periods of time.

Spraying daily (preferably morning and/or evening) with a traditional spray bottle can cause hand cramps, so it’s much easier to use a pressure sprayer like this. (preferably morning and/or evening) with a traditional spray bottle can lead to hand cramps, so use a pressure sprayer like the Exo Terra Pressure Sprayer to make life easier.

Install a wet hide somewhere in the middle to the cool end of the enclosure. This ensures your snake always has a wet spot when needed. Simply line a reptile skin or den with moistened peat moss to encourage high humidity, and replace the moss frequently to prevent mold growth.

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