How To Make Brick Weed Fluffy? Trust The Answer

These landrace sativas tend to sneak up on consumers—but when they strike, they’re instantly noticed. Smokers will notice a concerted pressure on the face, especially around the eyes and temples. Along with this novel physical sensation comes an increase in cerebral thinking as ideas jump from one to the next in free association. In the early stages, this mental stimulation can be helpful to help focus or make everyday chores and errands more interesting. However, as the high progresses, smokers’ mindsets can become more foggy and dream-like, and may not be as well suited to work that requires high concentration. A degree of physical relaxation can allow for deep breathing and eliminate any lingering muscle tension. Appetite stimulation is commonly reported. More than other strains, Mexican sativas are often said to cause dry mouth and dry eyes. More suitable for daytime use than evening use, Mexican bud is also said to have a below-average short high.

Why can’t I grow dense buds?

by Nebula Haze

Bud density isn’t everything… but it’s certainly beautiful! If your buds keep getting light and fluffy and you’re not sure why, this article will break it down for you. Learn exactly how to get the densest cannabis buds possible.

Example of dense buds

Learn How To Prevent Airy “Popcorn” Buds!

Here are the 5 most common reasons why your buds aren’t as compact as they could be.

1.) Genetics

You cannot overcome the genes of a plant. Some plants will only produce small and airy buds even under perfect conditions. If the genetics don’t support the bud density, it’s not your fault if the buds come out fluffy and there’s not much you can do. That being said, some of my absolute favorite strains have buds that tend to come out with a lower density. A low density does not necessarily mean that the buds are bad. It is common in sativa and Haze-leaning strains, as well as certain hybrids.

Once you smoke the buds you won’t notice any difference!

I personally love Durban Poison for the riveting bud effect and excellent yields, but the buds aren’t necessarily the densest.

The same goes for Liberty Haze, another favorite of mine. High yields and potency but a slightly looser bud structure.

Choosing a strain that is known to grow densely will greatly increase the chance of producing dense buds. Indica-heavy strains tend to develop the densest buds, although almost every strain these days is a hybrid.

Aurora Indica is a hardy strain that stays short and tends to form tight buds even in poor conditions (and the yields and effects are fantastic).

These are the rock hard buds of this Aurora Indica plant

Bubblelicious is another popular strain that produces dense buds with great effects

Here are recommendations for denser varieties:

What’s your favorite dense strain? Let us know!

2.) Poor nutrition in the flowering phase

Cannabis plants tend to be relatively forgiving during the veg stage, and the exact nutrients provided don’t matter much as long as the plants are growing green and healthy. However, once you are in the flowering stage and buds form, the nutrients begin to have a direct impact on the quality, density and yield of your buds.

Don’t let plants run out of nutrients while buds are forming

Don’t rely on regular potting soil for nutrients during the flowering phase. Plants that grow in the same soil from seed to harvest often use up the nutrients as buds form. Proper nutrition is crucial for a plant to produce the largest and densest buds.

Don’t rely on regular potting soil to provide nutrients while buds form. Plants need a lot of P&K in the flowering phase.

If you’re already adding cannabis-friendly nutrients to the water, this probably doesn’t apply to you.

However, if you are not using nutrients, it is a good idea to supplement your plant with flowering phase nutrients (high in P and K). The exception is if you are either regularly transplanting into fresh soil or using a composted, enriched soil (which slowly releases organic nutrients throughout the life of the plant). The specific brand of nutrient isn’t nearly as crucial as making sure you’re giving the plant what it needs. Learn about the best cannabis nutrients.

Get quality nutrients to ensure your plants get enough nutrients in the flowering phase

Avoid too much nitrogen in the flowering phase

On the other hand, you can give plants too many nutrients. Providing high levels of nutrients causes an overall nutrient burn that is cosmetic and doesn’t have a massive impact on bud density. However, adding too much nitrogen (N) to plants during the flowering phase can stunt bud development.

Too much nitrogen (N) causes dark green leaves. Sometimes they appear almost shiny

Nitrogen poisoning sometimes causes the leaf tips to scrape down

Luckily, it’s easy to tell if your plant has too much nitrogen. The main symptom of nitrogen poisoning is dark green leaves and possibly claw tips as well.

Too much nitrogen in the flowering phase can suppress bud development

Nitrogen poisoning is super easy to fix. Just reduce the amount of nitrogen your plants are getting. However, do not stop giving nitrogen entirely, but withdraw it.

If you’re using general purpose or vegetative nutrients (which are high in nitrogen), you’ll need to find other nutrients. Proper nutrients for the flowering phase are typically referred to as “bloom” nutrients and contain low levels of nitrogen. If you’re using multiple bottle nutrients that you combine according to a nutrient schedule (like the General Hydroponics Flora Trio or the Fox Farm Trio) there’s no need to worry. The schedule automatically decreases the amount of nitrogen during the flowering phase.

Buds don’t develop as well as they could if a plant gets too much nitrogen

What if you use low-nitrogen Bloom fertilizer but the plants still look dark?

In this case, reduce the overall nutrient content. Don’t change the ratio. You can use fractions to figure out how many nutrients to add (e.g. try reducing the nutrients by 1/3), but I don’t do fractions. It’s too easy for me to screw up! Instead, I add extra water after mixing the nutrients to dilute the total without affecting proportions.

When treating nitrogen poisoning, make sure you give enough water to get some drainage. Draining water will help flush out any nutrient buildup in the growing medium.

Learn more about nitrogen toxicities

Don’t ignore nutrient deficiencies

Now you know that flowering cannabis plants need a lot of phosphorus and potassium (P&K) but not a lot of nitrogen (N). The second most common nutrient challenge in the flowering phase is the occurrence of nutrient deficiencies. If you don’t add nutrients to the water there is a chance that the plant will need more nutrients overall and supplementing with an appropriate bloom nutrient will solve the problem.

Not sure which bloom nutrient to take? Dyna-Gro Bloom is an affordable and effective cannabis bloom nutrient in any growing medium that provides your plant with complete flowering phase nutrition in any growing medium. A simple way to prevent deficiency symptoms in the flowering phase!

However, if you are already using nutrients and are still experiencing a nutrient deficiency, it is likely caused by improper pH levels at the roots.

Don’t ignore nutrient issues like this potassium deficiency! Keep the plant leaves as healthy as possible during the flowering phase to get the best bud development.

Why should you care about nutrient deficiencies?

Although P&K are most important for bud development, your plants need a variety of nutrients to complete normal plant processes. Every time you ignore a plant that gets sick, you lower overall growth rates and potentially reduce bud size and density.

Diagnosing my nutrient deficiency!

What about supplements?

What about herbal supplements? How important are they for bud density?

The truth is that you can achieve incredible bud quality and density using only base nutrients. They contain everything your plant needs for healthy growth and you don’t need any supplements to grow great buds. When I first started growing I was confused because it seemed like supplements were needed to produce boastful buds and yields. I’ve learned over the years that nutritional companies want you to believe that because it helps them sell more bottles. I’m not saying that supplements don’t provide benefits, just to reassure you that they aren’t necessary. They can sometimes complicate things by interacting with your nutrients or each other. Many supplements can be beneficial in small doses but can kill your plants in higher doses, so use sparingly at first to see what effect they have.

Some supplements claim to increase bud density, but it’s hard to pinpoint exactly which ones work. Unfortunately, there aren’t many parallel experiments showing the difference each supplement makes. Here are some popular options.

These supplements are designed to increase yield and density with added phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).

Tips on using supplements in the flowering phase

Add only one new addition at a time. You will most likely get unexpected results when adding several new things at once.

Adding only one supplement at a time will also help you pinpoint which supplement is causing the observed effects.

Always use supplements made by the same company as your base nutrients. Sticking with one company reduces the likelihood of unwanted interactions. Each company develops its nutrients and supplements to use together.

Use each supplement sparingly. A little usually goes a long way! Too much of certain supplements can damage plants, burning leaves or stunting bud growth. Always start with the lowest recommended dose (or less) and only increase if plants seem to be responding well.

We all want magic in a bottle, but it’s important to remember that environment and general plant care are far more crucial to achieving excellent bud quality and yields than any specific supplement. You can’t overcome a poor growing environment no matter what you give your plants (more on that next).

Learn more about nutritional supplements for cannabis plants

3.) Wrong grow light

Unfortunately, some grow lights have trouble growing dense bud no matter what you do.

Grow lights that excel at producing excellent bud density:

Fluorescent lights like CFLs and T5s can produce dense buds if you keep the lights close. However, the bottom buds of plants grown under fluorescent plants are typically rather fluffy as the light doesn’t penetrate far into the plant. Fluorescents produce high bud quality and potency (I’ with CFLs), but if density is what matters most to you, fluorescents may not be the best choice.

CFLs and T5s need to be grown extremely close together to achieve high bud density. Only the buds close to the light become dense.

Certain LEDs (especially the no-name ones) have poor penetration into the plant and the buds just won’t harden.

Poor quality LEDs often produce airy buds. These buds were grown under cheap LEDs. They stayed small and tall although the plants looked happy and healthy.

If density is the most important factor for you, you will generally get the best results with HID lights like HPS in the flowering phase. However, the technology for LEDs has improved dramatically in recent years, and there are many modern LED models that consistently produce long, dense buds.

High-quality LEDs tend to cost a little more, but the results can be worth it. For example, you can achieve impressive densities and yields with LED models like the HLG Quantum Boards (HLG 100 3000k version, HLG 300 V2 R-Spec, HLG 550 V2 R-Spec, etc.). Learn more about the best LED grow lights for cannabis.

Certain LEDs produce high density. The HLG 100 (3000k version) draws only 100w and made those extremely dense buds for me. I am currently flowering several plants under an HLG 300 and am even more impressed so far!

HPS Grow Lights consistently produce dense bud as long as the plants are healthy and the environment is right

This bud was grown under HPS

The buds get solid even with low wattage models like this 150w HPS.

LEC/CMH grow lights also tend to produce dense buds (though often not as dense as HPS). One of my favorite aspects of growing with an LEC is that the buds come out extremely sparkling and stinky compared to other grow lights.

These sticky, dense buds were grown under an LEC of 315.

4.) Errors in the vegetative stage

During the veg stage, you have complete control over a plant’s final shape and size. You can use this to your advantage. Set up your plants properly so they can bear dense buds later.

Too many bud sites

You can increase your overall yield by training your plant in the veg stage (using techniques like LST or manifolding) to produce multiple primary buds instead of one.

Plant training increases yields by forcing plants to grow multiple main buds instead of just one

However, if you grow a plant with tons and tons of bud sites, it may not be able to fatten them all up before harvest. This is most likely to happen with smaller plants, younger plants and when using smaller grow lights. If you have a relatively small plant, try to force the plant to focus on just a few main buds instead of dozens. As a general rule of thumb, plants under 2 feet tall should have 4-10 main buds. Tall or wide plants can bear more.

Don’t spread the plant’s energy too thinly or you could end up with tons of baby “popcorn” buds.

This plant has too many buds for its size. Although she can produce good yields, none of the buds will grow particularly large or dense.

Taller plants, older plants, and branching plants can support larger, denser buds. Especially in combination with a powerful grow light!

Do not switch to the flowering phase too early

It’s kind of related to the last point. Taller plants can support larger buds and switching to 12/12 early means your plant may not grow tall enough to form dense, thick colas/buds.

Try to switch to the flowering phase when your plant is about half the final desired size. Since plants roughly double in size after getting 12/12, this should give you the largest possible plants for your grow space.

Switch to 12/12 when the plants are halfway to their final desired height. This will ensure they are tall enough to support dense buds

5.) Mistakes in the flowering phase

A common cause of airy buds is poor maintenance during the flowering phase. Here are some factors that can prevent you from getting the best density. This stage is the most important part of your plant’s life when it comes to bud quality, density and yields!

Ultraleaved plants

When plants are so leafy that air and light can’t get through the plant, the buds won’t grow as dense as they could.

These plants are too leafy for the flowering phase. The buds will not fatten far into the plant and will not be as dense as they could be.

Air and light should be able to flow through the plant during the flowering phase. For some plants you don’t have to do anything. However, with some plants you may need to remove leaves to achieve optimal leaf strength.

You may need to remove leaves if the plants become too leafy

Not sure if your plants are too leafy?

This 3-step defoliation tutorial will ensure your plants have the perfect amount of foliage.

Don’t ignore any pests or diseases

I’ve mentioned nutrient deficiencies before, but it’s also important that you take immediate action to address any other issues that may arise. Don’t ignore a problem until it gets out of control.

Typically, a plant is easy to treat when it’s just starting to have problems, but the longer it takes, the worse it gets. An unhealthy plant will not develop buds as well as a healthy one, so keep an eye on your plant’s health.

Don’t ignore problems like pests or diseases

Extreme temperatures (especially heat)

Many growers ignore issues surrounding the flowering phase of the plant. Growers often don’t realize how much this can affect their results. It’s easy to ignore environmental issues like heat as your plants and buds are usually still growing.

If the plants are looking good, the heat should be fine, right? Unfortunately, not.

If the air is too warm (above 26°C) during the flowering phase, the buds tend to become lighter and more airy. Sometimes the buds even grow unsightly foxtails as a result of heat.

The buds become less dense when it is too hot. Check out the loose structure of this bud grown in extreme heat.

Air that is too cold can also cause the buds to become small, airy, and fluffy

A word about temperature: flowering cannabis plants like it a little warm during the day, but cool at night. Warm nights are also associated with breezy buds. Try to keep the temperature between 65-80F (18-27C) for the best bud development in the flowering phase.

Check out our full temperature tutorial.

High humidity

Humidity in the flowering phase is another factor that is often ignored. Each leaf of the plant is constantly adding moisture to the air, which means that the humidity in the grow room tends to increase as the plants get bigger. This is ironic because plants like high humidity when they are young/small, but it causes problems in the flowering phase.

High humidity can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew, which is reason enough to control humidity. But there is more. The buds don’t get as sparkling as they could in high humidity and the buds tend to become looser and airier overall.

Keep the humidity below 50% RH while the buds form for the best results!

Check out our full hydration tutorial.

Keep the humidity below 50% RH while the buds form or they may not get as dense as they could

Bad airflow

Buds seem to fatten best when given plenty of light and fresh air. You’ve already taken care of the light, but you should also make sure your plants get excellent air circulation. Air circulation helps control humidity, avoiding wet spots and moving air through the plant and around the buds.

Air Circulation and Exhaust Tutorial

Make sure the plants get fresh air and good airflow

Any other major burden

If your plant isn’t “looking good” or appears ailing in the flowering phase, the first thing to focus on is improving density.

If plants are looking generally unhealthy, focus on fixing that before trying anything else. These plants suffer from heat stress. Look how fluffy the buds are.

Buds tend to stay small and fluffy on an unhealthy plant.

6.) Harvesting Errors

Don’t harvest too early

The buds increase significantly in size, weight and density in the last few weeks before harvest time. This means if you harvest your plants a few weeks early they will be significantly smaller and less dense than they could be. Buds harvested early are also not as strong and can give some people a headache. There are many good reasons to harvest your plants at the right time.

Know exactly the right time to harvest your plants

Do not harvest until the plants are ready. These Original Amnesia buds are dense and ready for harvest!

Non-drying and hardening

By drying and curing the buds, they smoke better, smell better, and feel more potent. Don’t skip this step!

As a bonus, drying and curing can help tighten the buds for that “California Dispensary” look.

How to dry and cure your buds

Buds tend to look “firmer” and feel denser after they’ve been dried and cured

I’ve found that waiting to trim the buds until after they’ve dried can also help them feel and appear denser (compared to trimming before drying).

If you avoid these mistakes, you will produce dense cannabis buds like you’ve always dreamed of!

As a grower, there must have been times when you grew plants indoors and never got those dense, sticky buds. Discovering that your expectations of big and healthy bud have been dashed can be quite frustrating and demoralizing. However, there are very effective ways to grow dense buds and beat the disappointments.

Lighting, fertilization, pruning, and training are the most common factors that can determine how your plants can grow the dense buds you desire. Plants need excellent and even lighting to thrive while receiving the right nutrients. They also need to be pruned at the necessary stages to grow well and trained to grow at the same pace. These factors are key to growing healthy bud.

In the meantime, in this article we will discuss in detail how to grow dense buds indoors without hiccups. Let’s go!

Effective methods to grow dense buds indoors

There are many effective solutions to help you grow dense buds indoors. Below we discuss the main ones and how to use them effectively to get the most out of your plants

1. Proper lighting

Plants are light suckers, especially when they are in the flowering phase. Plants that get little light are not favored for producing lots of bud. The more light, the bigger and denser the buds. However, too much light can be counterproductive and cause the buds to develop poorly and produce airy buds. Therefore, it is very important to be able to control your grow lights well and make sure they are helping your plants and not hurting them.

There are two of the most popular efficient grow lights for indoor growing and these include LED and HPS grow lights.

LED grow lights are very effective for achieving very dense buds. Depending on the model, you should be careful not to hold them too close to plants to avoid burning leaves and buds. On the other hand, HPS Grow Lights have the ideal color spectrum for quality flowering and consequently impressive bud. They are both perfect for growing dense buds when used properly.

In the meantime, when you think about lighting, also consider the walls. Purchase excellent reflective sheeting that can evenly distribute light to plants.

2. Right temperature

The temperature in your grow room is very important. Plants do not thrive well in the presence of excessive heat. Just as humans abhor high temperatures, so do plants. The temperature around plants needs to be moderate to make them more productive. Lights are also important factors, so you’ll want to make sure you’re getting grow lights that are perfect for your grow space or grow tent size.

Hot temperatures during the flowering phase can cause your plants to produce loose buds, which you definitely don’t want. The temperature is much easier to control indoors and you should make sure the room is air conditioned to keep the heat under control. A digital thermometer can also come in handy and help you determine the temperature of the grow room. This keeps your plants safe and productive.

3. Pruning

Buds mostly form at the nodes of the plant, where a branch or leaf grows out of the stem. As a plant grows, more nodes will appear, giving more places for buds to grow. However, more nodes will not result in more and denser buds. This is because most of the buds are in the lower parts of the plant and don’t get enough light.

If you want to improve your plant’s productivity, it’s best to cut away any buds or leaves that aren’t getting enough light. Therefore, cut away any plants that are under the canopy. This way, all bud sites are on the canopy and receive the same amount of light. Therefore, all buds can grow to an admirable density and size.

4. Education

Training your plants is another way to make their buds denser. Generally, plants form one large stalk while other small stalks grow around it. While this tall stalk will grow a large cluster of buds, its height will dictate where the grow lights will be placed. Therefore, lower branches will receive less light if the canopy is not level.

However, by using high-stress training (super cropping) or low-stress training (LST) methods such as tying down the topmost branches, the remaining branches can be motivated to develop. Hence there is a more even cap. When you start training your plants, the growth hormones concentrated in the main stem are redistributed to all the surrounding branches. This encourages the growth of the entire plant and develops larger, denser buds.

5. Proper feeding

Like all living things, plants need food to survive and be productive. In order to grow dense buds, you need to feed your plants the right nutrients that can boost the process.

This is where the N-P-K formula comes into play. Use low nitrogen (N), high phosphorus (P) and also potassium (K) in the flowering phase. Excessive nitrogen will result in smaller and looser buds, so make sure you give them the right ratio and prevent nutrient burn. It will also give your plants the building blocks they need to develop buds.

Deficiencies can lead to unattractive development and you should ensure that this never happens to protect your plant’s buds. In addition, incorrect pH levels at the roots can prevent your plants from taking up enough nutrients. Make an effort to properly control pH levels so your plants have easy access to enough nutrients.

6. Airflow improvement

Insufficient airflow around the buds will prevent them from developing dense buds. Buds need sufficient air and the right distance between them and others to develop more densely. Without direct exposure to fresh air, they won’t get fat, and that’s bad for your efforts to grow dense buds. So make sure there is a few inches of space between the buds to allow air to flow freely.

7. Water properly

While watering is great for plants, too much water can damage roots. Excess water deprives the roots of oxygen (another important factor for them) and thus prevents the plants from getting enough water or nutrients from the roots. Therefore, these unfortunate roots can cause drooping or curling leaves. Air-Pot is a great solution for this. It improves oxygenation, nutrient absorption, and also dehydrates quickly.

8. Proper harvest time

While you’re dying to harvest your plants, you should also make sure you’re harvesting at the right time. If you wait patiently, you’ll give your buds more time to develop. You can get lower yields if you harvest too early as the buds have not fully developed. You certainly won’t be cool with airy or less developed buds. Therefore, strive to be patient and harvest at the right time.

Conclusion

In this article we have explained how to grow dense buds indoors in a simple and detailed way. Growing dense buds indoors takes a lot of effort and a willingness to do the right things. Undoubtedly, lighting is a big part of indoor growing as sunlight is not a luxury. Proper lighting with the ideal color spectrum can help you grow quality bud.

Not forgetting the location of the temperature, plants abhor excessive heat and shouldn’t be around it. Consequently, plants need to be provided with the right nutrients and not overwatered to ensure their roots are in the right condition.

If you’re under the age of 35, you probably don’t know what brick weed is. The question is: are you missing anything?

While brick weed is still around and has been hugely popular in the past, there’s a good reason this isn’t the case anymore.

Read on to find out what brick weed is, how it’s made, how to smoke it, and what caused its popularity to decline. Let’s start!

So what is brick weed?

Brick weed is the type of weed that is harvested and pressed into separate bricks. This also explains why brick weed is commonly referred to as “compressed weed”.

One of the main reasons for compacting is for easier transportation, which was important back when weed was smuggled out of Mexico.

It’s grown like any other marijuana plant, but what sets it apart from other weed that people buy in dry form is its processing – the way it’s dried and compressed.

Growers simply stack piles of harvested cannabis to dry, causing parts of it to mold with moisture, and then compress it with hydraulic presses. Even if the plant was of high quality before compacting, which is often the case, compacting wastes much of the THC and terpenes in weed.

Brick weed has a long tradition and was particularly popular in the USA and Mexico in the last century.

This popularity peaked between 1970 and 1980 when brick weed was the most consumed weed strain in the world. Very often people didn’t even know they were smoking brick weed because their dealers broke it.

Eventually, his popularity began to decline. Although some people still regularly smoke brick weed, global production has declined dramatically. Most cannabis users have switched to other, stronger alternatives.

Currently Brick Weed is mainly produced in Asia, Central and South America. The main global marijuana producer is Paraguay, while most of Europe’s weed comes from Albania.

There are several reasons why brick weed is no longer popular, but first let’s talk about whether or not you should smoke this type of weed.

Is brick weed good?

We’ve already addressed the question of the quality of brick weed. Although it’s often made from decent plants, the compression turns it into poorer quality weed.

Of course, many people have enjoyed it in the past, but if you’re looking for weed with exceptional flavor and long-lasting effects, Brick Weed isn’t for you. It will always be inferior to other types of weed that has been properly dried, cured and stored.

The main reason brick weed has been so popular in the past is its price.

This product was (and still is) extremely cheap, which is why it is still so widely available today. Of course, despite the low price, some people like the taste of brick weed. Not to mention that if you’re lucky, you can get some really great quality brick weed.

But overall, it’s evident that the low price was the driving force behind the immense popularity of brick weed in general.

How do you smoke brick weed?

Smoking brick weed is very simple and straightforward.

Technically, you smoke this type of weed like any other, but with one exception – you have to break it down into individual pieces for easier consumption.

You can do this a lot of different ways, but I prefer using steam to separate the pieces evenly.

Here’s how, according to an experienced user. Prepare some hot water, put weed on a paper towel and hold it over the steam. The grass gets softer and softer, allowing you to break it apart.

Once you’ve done that, you can go ahead and smoke as usual.

Why is brick weed not popular anymore?

Several factors contributed to brick weed losing its popularity.

First of all, as I mentioned before, the quality you get here is far from perfect. People can now choose much more potent strains, and while Brick Weed is extremely affordable, most buyers want their cannabis to have a strong effect and a pleasant taste.

Another reason for the decline in popularity is that many people grow their own weed these days. It’s easy to do and can save you a lot of money in the long run. Not to mention that when you start growing weed at home, you know what to expect and you don’t have to rely on unfamiliar, second-hand weed.

The final and perhaps most important reason why brick weed isn’t what it used to be is the ever-growing trend towards cannabis legalization.

As cannabis becomes legal in more and more countries, people are embracing the idea of ​​knowing exactly what they are getting. Also, there is no longer a need to compress weed for transport, so there seems to be less room for brick weed in the modern cannabis world.

Finally

Brick weed has been hugely popular in the past, and for good reason. Times have changed, however, and cannabis enthusiasts have much better options today.

Should you try brick weed if you’ve never smoked it before? Well, that’s entirely up to you. If you’re curious and want to experience the taste first hand, by all means give it a try. However, if you want high-quality marijuana with excellent, long-lasting effects, this weed is not for you.

Either way, if they ever come up, it doesn’t hurt to know about them. And if you’re a marijuana veteran, this is a good opportunity to relive some old memories. After all, a little nostalgia is always cute, right?

Brick weed is low-grade cannabis shaped into a brick for transport. It is becoming much rarer these days due to a plethora of high-quality legal and illegal products.

Do you remember Brickweed? Well, many (lucky) people have never heard of it. Widespread legalization has led to large-scale innovation and a massive boom in product quality and variety. However, this was not always the case.

When cannabis was more of a black-market product than it is today, weed was typically grown in a far-flung country, and vendors could rake in massive rewards for minimal work and get away with selling poor-quality products to customers who had no other options. Brick weed is a perfect example of this.

WHAT IS BRICKWEED?

Have you ever bought some buds from the local street vendor and found them to be a lot flatter and more two dimensional than the usual buds you’re used to? This strange phenomenon isn’t necessarily due to being in your dealer’s back pocket for the last week; it may be because it was stuffed into the shape of a brick.

Brick weed is very similar to what it sounds like; It’s basically grass squashed into the shape of a brick to make it more suitable for illegal transportation and smuggling. Brick weed is known for its poor quality and is reported to very often have its roots in Mexico. Brick weed in Europe usually originates from Albania.

THE QUALITY OF BRICK WEED

The fact that brick weed has been heavily compressed and compressed into condensed blocks of cannabis detracts from its quality. This process, as well as the bumps and bruises it suffers during transport, can knock trichomes off the buds. Trichomes are the tiny glands that produce the precious resin that contains all of the desirable cannabinoids and terpenes that every stoner craves. When this part of the anatomy is reduced in number, the high is reduced in potency.

Brick weed is also notorious for not being strictly “weed”. When buying from a decent pharmacy, many people picture big, crunchy nuggets with little else. Brick weed contains flowers, but also stalks, leaves, stalks, and even seeds. Excess parts of the plant make bricks seem heavier, but that’s not all prime flower. The presence of these components results in both much faster processing times and increased profit.

IS BRICK WEED WORTH BUYING?

The answer to this question is a clear no. You may be able to purchase bulk brick weed at a greatly reduced price, but even that is not guaranteed. If the seller is trying to sell brick weed at a normal price and hopes the buyer doesn’t know about it, then just spend the same amount of money on an inferior product.

Chances are you don’t know any valuable information about the product, and you definitely don’t know how it’s grown. Dispensaries can provide all the information from strain name to cannabinoid percentage to terpene profile and effects. Buying Brick Weed is a game of roulette by comparison. If you live in an area that has yet to be legalized and have no other choice, it might be worth it. Or maybe it’s worth finding a retailer with a better connector.

HOW COMMON IS BRICKWEED?

Brickweed was once very common when Prohibition was in full swing, but is a much rarer sight today. The ability to walk into a store and know exactly what you’re buying greatly reduces the demand for contraband brick weed. Some people with such access might still choose to buy it due to reduced cost and a good source, but for the most part it’s not that common these days.

Any reputable black marketer trying to make money without cheating their customers usually takes the time and energy to source their buds from higher quality suppliers.

Mexican Marijuana Strain Overview Mexican Marijuana is a Sativa dominant plant with 70% Sativa genetics. The strain is a combination of Durban Poison and Pakistani Hash Plant genetics. The plant develops long, thin buds and smooth aromas. Tastes earthy

lemon

Lime General usage Depression

fatigue

loss of appetite

Focus on migraine effects

Happy

Uplifting Growing info Flowering lasts a short 50-70 days. The harvest brings a medium yield of top quality buds. Mexican marijuana is a great choice for any grower. THC 16% CBD 0% Sativa 70% Indica 30%

Mexico’s mountainous terrain and unique climate make it one of the few global regions suitable for growing cannabis. Mexico is home to several landrace strains, all with distinct sativa traits thanks to the country’s high altitude, and is a hotspot for cannabis cultivation. Today we’re going to look at Mexican marijuana.

Landrace strains are a variety of the cannabis plant that have less diluted DNA than other strains. This means that they have not been crossed with any other cannabis strain. Landrace strains are typically native to a specific part of the world, meaning they have adapted to the environment of a specific geographic location.

Since landrace strains are the original cannabis plant from this region, descendants of these strains often reflect part of the region’s name, as in the case of the Mexican marijuana strain.

It is important to note that the landrace classification only describes the indigenous upbringing and genetic purity of the strain. Ultimately, they have less diluted DNA, meaning they are closer to the original wild species than any other strain available.

The Mexican marijuana strain was created to offer growers a landrace strain that can thrive in northern climates. Read on to find out more.

What is the Mexican Marijuana Strain?

Mexican marijuana weed is a sativa-dominant hybrid strain (70% sativa/30% indica) created as a cross between powerful Hash Plant and Durban Poison strains. Notorious for her strong uplifting effects, she has moderately high THC levels of between 12-18%.

The effects of the Mexican cannabis strain begin with a hard-hitting high that elevates the mind to insanely joyful focus and clarity, with strong creative motives running through the veins. Eventually, you will fall into a sleepy state of cravings.

Landrace sativas tend to sneak up on users, but when they hit, it’s usually strong. And Mexican marijuana is no different. Smokers feel a concerted pressure on the face, especially around the temples and eyes. Along with this physical sensation comes a surge of cerebral thinking as you jump back and forth between different ideas in free association.

Initially, mental stimulation can be helpful to help focus or make boring chores and errands more exciting. However, as the high progresses, your mindset can become more foggy and dreamlike, and may not be as useful for work that requires acute focus.

Typically, the Mexican marijuana strain is more suitable for daytime use than evening—it’s said to have a shorter-than-average high.

Aroma

Mexican marijuana smells sweet and savory, mixing earth and woody tobacco with lemon. It’s a very earthy and stoney smell with a distinctly skunky pungency. A woody scent lurks underneath, and grinding the buds releases peppery, spicy notes.

taste

You can expect a lemon and lime flavor rubbed in with a tobacco exhale. It’s a smooth but pungent flavor with hints of diesel.

Looks

Mexican flowers are typically scrawny and elongated rather than clumpy and densely packed. The leaves of the variety do not tightly curl inward. Instead, they are slightly loose and look fluffy from a distance.

The leaves are a vibrant lime green hue and feature brown to bright orange hairs that are actually pistils. Pistils are a structure designed to catch pollen from flowering male plants. There is a heavy visible layer of sticky droplets of syrupy resin.

Info on growing Mexican marijuana strains

Mexican sativa seeds are perfect for garden growers looking for an easy to cultivate strain. She is a clear, uplifting sativa high and possesses aesthetically pleasing plants.

This strain offers medium-sized yields. As expected, Mexican marijuana is getting really big. It is considered an outdoor strain because it is difficult to contain the sheer size of the plant indoors.

The flowering time is a short 50-70 days thanks to a trait passed down from Hash Plant genetics. Any grower in a northern climate looking to grow a tall sativa outdoors will surely appreciate this strain.

THC Level – Highest Test

Typically, Mexican marijuana has a THC content of between 12 and 18%. This is a moderately high THC level – it’s quite potent, but there are numerous strains that contain higher THC levels.

CBD Content – ​​Highest Test

We could not find any information on the CBD content of Mexican marijuana. It only contains trace amounts and it doesn’t look like even 1% CBD has been detected in this strain.

Medicinal Benefits of the Mexican Marijuana Strain

The Mexican marijuana strain can be beneficial for medical cannabis patients thanks to its mood-elevating and mentally stimulating properties. First, it can help people with attention deficit disorder to endure focusing on a single task.

It can also help with mild to moderate cases of stress and depression. The subtle anti-inflammatory properties can help soothe physical irritations like indigestion and headaches. As the mental effects are not particularly intense, it may be suitable for patients who are prone to panic or have a low THC tolerance.

Possible Side Effects of Mexican Marijuana Strain

Mexican sativas are often thought to trigger dry eyes and mouth. However, these are minor side effects associated with most marijuana strains. Bloodshot eyes are a classic indicator that a person may have used marijuana.

The dry eye effect is dose dependent. Depending on the strength of the THC in the strain, individuals may experience different effects. For example, if a person consumes a low-potency strain of marijuana, the effects are not as obvious. However, if you use a high-potency strain, the effects will become more noticeable.

In other words, the relatively high THC content of the Mexican marijuana strain can cause dry eyes and mouth.

Final Thoughts on the Mexican Marijuana Strain

Mexico is traditionally one of the largest cannabis producers in Latin America and one of the top exporters to the United States. Sativa strains have long thrived in Mexico’s hot climate, and this marijuana strain is one of the most popular.

It is a powerfully uplifting strain with a fresh aroma of lemon and earthy tones. You can expect a cerebral high mixed with smooth, relaxing body sensations. Both seasoned cannabis users and curious newcomers will appreciate the strain’s vintage qualities. You will also enjoy the surprisingly intoxicating high that she offers.

If you can find the Mexican marijuana strain, it’s a must-have for all cannabis enthusiasts.

For many seasoned stoners, brick weed is very nostalgic. In this article, we take a look back at brick weed, how it’s made, and why it’s a lot less popular today than it used to be.

If you’re a younger reader, you may not have tried Brick Weed. Thanks to the home growing movement and now the legalization of cannabis, compressing blocks of cannabis for transportation is not as necessary as it used to be.

Nonetheless, chances are you’ve heard someone talk about “good old brick weed.” In this article, we take an in-depth look at brick weed and how it’s made.

WHAT IS BRICKWEED?

Brick weed, as the name suggests, is cannabis that has been condensed and pressed into “bricks”. It was very popular in the US, where it was smuggled across the border mainly from Mexico. The process of compressing cannabis into bricks made it much easier to transport, and brick weed was by far the most commonly consumed type of cannabis before home cultivation began in the 1970s and 1980s.

Today, Brick Weed is still sold throughout South and Central America and Asia. In South America, brick weed is typically produced in Paraguay and exported to surrounding countries like Brazil and Argentina (where it’s known locally as “Paraguayo” or “Prensado”).

IS BRICKWEED GOOD?

Every once in a while, you’ll hear an old-time cannabis connoisseur telling you about the excellent brick weed he/she “used to” smoke. And it’s true; Brick weed can be, and has been, high quality at times. However, having been and lived in South America, we have never encountered brick weed that was even remotely “good”.

Most South American brick weed weighs around 25g. It is usually brown to black in color and has a strong, pungent aroma that smells of spices and mostly ammonia. You usually have to saw this stuff up with a knife to break it apart, and at that point you’ll find it’s full of seeds and stalks. When brick weed is smoked, it usually tastes exactly as it smells (i.e. like shit), is incredibly hard on the throat and lungs, and produces an overwhelming, calming high.

HOW IS BRICKWEED MADE?

To better understand why brick weed is as bad as it is, it helps to take a look at how it’s made.

Making brick weed is easy. Unlike the buds you would find in a pharmacy or coffee shop, this stuff doesn’t come trimmed or “cured”. Instead, the cannabis is harvested, dried, and then pressed into bricks using a hydraulic press.

In 2017, a Brazilian cannabis journalist named Matias Maxx gave a talk on brick weed production in Paraguay. Maxx had the opportunity to visit a cannabis farm on the border of Paraguay and Brazil and see firsthand what goes into making the weed that saturated the market in most South American countries. He spoke about his journey at Expocannabis 2017 in Uruguay.

Maxx was quick to mention that the plants used to make Brick Weed are excellent and often come from premium seeds from reputable seed banks. He mentioned that the plants have grown well, although males tend to invade the plantations and fertilize some of the females. The problem with brick weed, according to Maxx, is how it’s processed.

At harvest time, entire branches of cannabis are piled onto large canvases and dried in the sun. With so much plant material so close together, moisture gets trapped and parts of the plant begin to rot, giving the brick its strong ammonia smell.

Once the branches have dried, the buds are torn from the larger branches and shaken to remove any larger leaves. A lot of trichomes are lost through this process, leaving a lot of leaves, stems, and seeds behind.

Finally, the dried cannabis is loaded into a hydraulic press that produces a massive 50kg block of compressed weed. This is then cut into smaller bricks, wrapped in plastic and held together with tape and then shipped.

THE DEATH OF BRICK WEED

As we mentioned earlier, brick weed is far less popular today than it used to be. There are two main reasons for this:

In the 1970s and 80s it suddenly became much easier for people to grow their own cannabis at home. Thanks to indoor growing equipment, people could now start growing cannabis from the comfort of their own home without raising the suspicions of neighbors or the police. Plus, thanks to the creation of seed banks, people have been able to get their hands on top-notch genetics that have been expertly bred to cope with indoor environments.

And now, thanks to the slow (but steady) legalization of cannabis around the world, the need to compress weed for shipping and transportation is much less necessary. For most young smokers, this means never having to endure the pain of sawing away a brick from black-brown weed and confronting its anger.

You must be at least 19 years old to access this website.

Please confirm your date of birth:

Harvesting airy and fluffy buds after growing for several months is disappointing to say the least. Use these tips to ensure an abundance of luscious buds.

One of the main goals with a large yield at the end of the process. It takes a few months to grow a plant from a seedling to a mature specimen full of buds. Growers should ensure they are doing everything they can to maximize their returns. After all, it is a significant investment of time and resources.

Sheer volume isn’t the only desirable metric when it comes to harvest time. The quality of each flower is important. Trichome load and resin production are two factors to analyze and maximize. Flower density is also something that many growers aim to achieve. But why is flower density an important trait? Why does it matter if the buds end up being light and airy or dense and compact?

Let’s take a look at why dense buds are better and what it takes to achieve them.

WHY IS BUD DENSITY IMPORTANT?

Bud density is important for several reasons. First and foremost, the denser the buds, the better the yield! Imagine two plants that are the same size and have produced the same amount of flowers. The plant to your left has produced full, nugget-shaped buds that are ready to be picked. The plant on the right has produced the same amount of buds, but they are airy, weak and in a generally sad state. In fact, they are half as dense as the buds produced by the plant on the left.

Both plants produced an identical amount of bud, but the yield from the plant on the left is twice as large. The density of each bud means there is twice as much tissue, meaning growers will enjoy twice as many joints and bong bowls.

While this is an extreme example, it’s a good way to understand the importance of achieving the most dense bud possible.

Bud density is also a key factor for commercial growers, dispensary owners, and coffee shop owners. With proper care, dense buds look far more visually appealing than airy buds.

There are many variables at play when cultivating top-quality, dense cannabis buds. Genetic factors play a significant role, but environmental factors determine the ultimate fate of the buds. Optimal lighting, nutrition, and training almost always lead to the production of dense buds. On the contrary, a lack of any of these vital components will result in airy, lackluster buds.

Before we dive into how to grow dense buds, let’s take a quick look at what to avoid.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU ABUSE CANNABIS BUDS?

Abuse of cannabis flowers (which is mostly just accidental neglect) results in so-called B-grade weed. This is the kind of flower that sellers wouldn’t take a second look at. It’s the quality of the buds that are best left to mature long enough to smoke when your high quality strain has dried up.

If the plants lack any of the above key factors, the bud will not be as prolific. A light deficit minimizes photosynthesis and disrupts energy production and microbial synergy in the root zone. A deficiency of a single nutrient is enough to cause dire symptoms, upset a plant’s physiology, and rob flowers of their potential density.

It is not difficult to recognize a B-class flower. They often take on the appearance of popcorn, hence the name popcorn buds. These flowers are not large and show a fluffy and fluffy appearance.

6 STEPS TO THICK CANNABISCOPES

Popcorn buds are a disappointing sight, especially after careful germination, weeks of veg and a long flowering period, not to mention all the time you spend tending to your babies. Here’s how you can avoid this outcome and grow dense, admirable colas instead.

1. IT ALL STARTS WITH GENETICS

Genetics are a crucial factor when it comes to growing dense buds. There are hundreds of known strains of cannabis, and they all exhibit slightly different characteristics. Some are intoxicating while others are energizing. Some grow to mighty heights; others remain bushy and low to the ground. Bud density is also a trait that varies from strain to strain.

Some strains are genetically wired to produce airy, fluffy buds. That doesn’t necessarily mean they’re less strong, but it does affect their aesthetic shine. Sativa strains tend to produce buds that are on the airier side of the spectrum. In contrast, indica strains tend to produce thick, compact colas.

If you decide to start your quest for the densest buds, it’s best to start with a pure indica specimen or a heavily indica-dominant hybrid. There is a huge catalog of indica genetics that vary wildly in taste, effect, and flowering time.

2. CONTROL THE TEMPERATURE

Temperature has a massive impact on the shape and size of cannabis colas. The plant thrives in a relatively wide temperature range of 18–26°C and can even survive temperatures as high as 30°C. However, when temperatures drop from the ideal range – due to cold snaps or heat waves – the buds start to act up and become breezy.

Growers need to ensure temperatures stay warm enough during the night and cool enough during the day. Indoor growers have an advantage here, as climate control in grow rooms is easier. With air conditioners, fans, heaters and a hygrometer you can keep things under control. This can even be automated using sensors and timers.

Outdoor growers have less control and are at the mercy of the elements. To avoid excessive heat, they can put shade cloths around their plants and install fans in polytunnels.

3. LIGHT INTENSITY AND SPECTRUM MATTER

Light is perhaps the most important factor in achieving dense buds. It is needed by plants to carry out photosynthesis, make vital sugars and grow. However, not just any old lights will do. Plants need optimal intensity and the right spectrum of light to produce plump, resinous buds.

Plants grown outdoors will do best in direct sunlight for most of the day. 10-12 hours is optimal. Growers should also aim to plant them on southern slopes to maximize exposure. Plants should also be evenly spaced, with enough space between them so they don’t block each other’s light.

Indoor growers have a variety of different types of lights to choose from. However, LEDs are among the best. They are cheap to operate, powerful and emit little heat – with a small disadvantage if you decide for high-quality panels: the acquisition costs.

Growers should aim for a light intensity of 1000w per square meter. This strength is enough to optimize even plant growth and produce dense buds. Cultivators need to be careful about where to position their lamps. Placing them too far away will reduce the rate of photosynthesis. However, placing them too close can cause heat stress and reduce bud density.

If using LEDs, position them 60cm above your plants. Move the light source a little closer from day to day. If you begin to see signs of blanching, increase the lights 5cm at a time until symptoms subside.

4. TRIM, TRAIN AND PRUNE

When left to their own devices, cannabis plants grow vertically and produce a central central cola. This growth pattern is not ideal if you want to maximize yield and bud density. Luckily, various techniques can be used to reshape plants and increase their yield.

Training techniques such as low stress training (LST) are used to open up the canopy and produce an abundance of main buds. During the LST, growers use garden wire to tie the main stem to the side of the container. The side branches then begin to grow vertically, effectively becoming stems themselves. Performed repeatedly, this greatly improves yield, exposure, and bud quality. High-stress techniques like topping can also be used to encourage branching and improve bud density.

Pruning can similarly be used to improve growth, flower quality, and shape. By removing select leaves and branches, growers direct energy and resources towards the buds instead.

5. TRANSLATION OF THE HARVEST

We get it, harvest time is exciting! You’ve spent months watching your plants grow from vulnerable seedlings to flowering beauties. Novice growers tend to pull their buds off the plant as quickly as possible. While this is tempting, it’s important to wait for the right time. Buds develop quickly during the flowering phase, and even waiting a few days longer can improve density. There are a few factors you need to look out for to know when the time is right. It helps to use a magnifying glass or a jeweler’s loupe to see them.

One harvest indicator is the color of the trichomes. These are the crystalline structures that line the surface of buds and sugar leaves. During early flowering, trichomes appear translucent. Eventually they become murkier. When the majority of the trichomes are cloudy, it’s time to harvest.

Growers should also keep an eye on pistils, the hair-like structures found throughout cannabis flowers. Young pistils are white, but turn orange-red or brown when ripe.

6. CONTROL NUTRIENTS CAREFULLY

Cannabis requires a wide range of nutrients to grow properly, including the macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and micronutrients like zinc and manganese. When plants aren’t getting enough nutrients, or can’t access them, they start to become deficient and bud quality suffers. However, too many nutrients can also harm plants and reduce bud density.

Growers should carefully administer nutrients according to product recommendations. Again, play it safe and give 50% of the recommended amount during the early vegetative phase. The pH of the soil must be slightly acidic to avoid deficiencies. The introduction of beneficial microorganisms into the soil, such as B. mycorrhizal fungi, also helps plants gain access to the nutrients they need.

Those who are serious about giving their plants some much-needed nutrients should definitely try Monster Bud Boost Pack in combination with Monster Bud Mix. This harmonious mix of nutrients will undoubtedly help the plants, with compact and dense buds as a reward. It is the perfect solution for those who want to approach their diet in a simple and balanced way.

Share on Pinterest Weed doesn’t go as bad as a jar of mayonnaise or any other food product, but it can definitely be “off” or even moldy. Old weed is unlikely to cause any serious health problems unless you have underlying medical conditions. However, it can have a noticeable drop in potency, which can be a big deal if you’re using it for medicinal purposes. Older weed can also experience changes in taste and texture.

How long does it stay fresh? When stored properly (more on that later), dried cannabis will last anywhere from 6 months to 1 year. Over time, it begins to lose its aroma and potency. According to some older research, weed loses about 16 percent of its THC after 1 year, and it keeps falling from there: 26 percent THC is lost after 2 years

34 percent THC lost after 3 years

41 percent THC lost after 4 years

How do I know if mine is old? This is mainly due to the smell. Weed that’s past its prime smells different or loses its aroma entirely. Some weed might even smell and taste offensive if it’s been sitting for too long. Its appearance can also give you an indication of whether it is old or not. Fresh grass shouldn’t crumble or feel spongy when you break it off. If so, it’s old and either too dry or too wet. Consumption shouldn’t harm you, but be prepared for changes in texture and potency. The exception is weed, which is mold that could potentially make you sick.

How do I check mold? Very carefully! Mold is often difficult to spot unless you look closely. It typically looks like white powdery or fuzzy spots, some of which can be quite small. Moldy weed usually smells musty, a bit like hay. It also tends to have a somewhat “open” taste. Even if your weed isn’t super old, it’s best to do a mold inspection. A study by researchers at the University of California, Davis found bacteria and mold on 20 cannabis samples purchased from dispensaries and pot growers in Northern California. Mold on weed is unlikely to cause any major health problems, but it can cause nausea, vomiting, and coughing. In people with compromised immune systems, inhaling smoke or fumes from weed that contains bacteria or fungi can cause serious illness or even death. If it looks or smells bad, you better throw it away, even if you just bought it.

How should I store my weed anyway? Light, humidity, temperature, and oxygen can spoil cannabis and affect its aroma, flavor, and potency potential. Here’s what to consider when storing weed to keep it fresh and preserve its quality for as long as possible. Choose the right container Stop using plastic bags and containers. Plastic holds static, which can affect delicate trichomes — the tiny, crystal-like hairs on buds that produce cannabinoids and terpenes — and affect potency. And forget about those weird little cans too, because they let too much oxygen through. Jars with an airtight seal, like mason jars, are the way to go. They have no static charge and limit oxygen exposure. Plus, they’re cheap and easy to find. Most pharmacies also sell containers designed to keep the weed fresh for as long as possible. If you have children or pets in your household, invest in a child and pet safe container. Watch the Humidity Weed is best kept at a relative humidity level of 59 to 63 percent. At a higher temperature, there is a risk of moisture being trapped, which can lead to mold growth. Anything below that can cause your weed to dry out. To help you conserve your stash, you can add moisture packs to your containers if you want to get really fancy. You can also go a step further and store your weed in a humidor made specifically for cannabis. Keep It Cool, Dark, and Dry Keeping weed in a cool, dry place away from sunlight is just as important, if not more important, than the container you use. Direct sunlight can cause cannabis to decompose, and too much heat can retain moisture and lead to mold growth. On the other hand, storing them too cool could dry them out and lose those precious trichomes, so fridges and freezers are not recommended. Try storing cannabis in a dark place, like a cupboard or display case, with a temperature below 77°F (25°C).

Can’t I just put it in the freezer? Everything lasts longer in the freezer, right? Not quite. Freezing temperatures can cause trichomes — the tiny hairs on buds that produce cannabinoids — to become brittle and break off during handling. Storing weed in the freezer can also expose it to moisture and lead to mold growth.

How to grow dense cannabis buds

by Nebula Haze

Say no to small, airy buds!

Grow fat, dense cannabis buds!

The 5 most common reasons for airy marijuana buds

(See the article below for a full breakdown of all the ways to increase bud density)

Light – The most common reason for buds not being dense is that the plant did not get enough light in the flowering phase. Light is like food for the plant. Although cannabis plants can survive in relatively low light conditions, they will not produce many buds. Up to a point, more light in the flowering phase = bigger buds. On the other hand, too bright light (less common, but can happen when buds are too close to grow lights) can also cause buds to develop poorly and/or produce airy, hairy foxtails. Strain/Genetics – Some strains will only produce airy bud no matter what you do. For example, sativa plants often produce buds that are less dense, while indica strains tend to produce more compact buds. While one isn’t necessarily better than the other, if you want dense buds, it’s important to start with genetics that produce dense buds. Temperature – Cannabis wants the temperature just right for optimal bud growth. Conveniently, this is about the same temperature as is comfortable for humans. Temperatures that are too hot in the flowering phase (especially above 30°C/85°F) can cause plants to develop loose buds, grow airy foxtails and experience herming (causing buds to stop thickening and becoming scruffy). Nutrients – Buds won’t get fat and dense if they don’t get the right nutrients at the right time, which means plenty of Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) in the flowering phase. Giving too much nitrogen (found in all-purpose plant foods) during the flowering phase can result in smaller, looser buds. Luckily, there are many flower/bloom nutrients that have the perfect nutrient ratios for cannabis bud formation (example: Dyna-Gro Bloom) so you don’t need to worry about that. Learn more about nutrient ratios. Other nutrient issues and deficiencies can also negatively impact bud development if left unchecked. However, the most common reason growers see nutrient issues hamper development in the flowering phase is due to deficiencies caused by improper pH levels at the plant roots. Airflow and Bud Spacing – Poor airflow around the buds and a lack of strong, direct light will prevent these buds from developing as densely as possible. Buds need a little space of their own to grow big and dense, and won’t get fat unless directly exposed to fresh air and strong light. In the wild, cannabis is a wind-pollinated plant, so it only uses energy to grow and fatten buds exposed to breeze and sun. To ensure buds get a breeze with direct access to strong light, each large cola on your plant should have a few inches of space around it that it doesn’t share with leaves or other buds. It also helps increase bud density if you snip off small or secondary stems before buds form (buds tend to get denser when their stem comes from the main base of the plant, which is a key idea behind multiplication).

Never grow fluffy, airy buds again!

Read on to learn how to produce rock hard bud every time

7 Bonus Tactics To Increase Bud Density

In addition to fixing the above issues, here is a full breakdown of additional tactics to increase bud density (see the article below for more complete information or click on the links).

Read on to learn more about these bud density increasing tactics and techniques. By the end of today’s tutorial, you will be a density expert.

How to grow dense cannabis buds every time

1.) Provide enough light (but not too much)

Bright, but not too bright. When new growers have trouble with light, it’s usually because their grow light is too dim. A sunny window or a tiny LED grow light that draws less than 50W is seriously underpowered even for a plant. Although plants grow under these types of lights in the veg stage, they are not strong enough to drive dense bud growth in the flowering stage. Which Cannabis Grow Light Works Best?

Even if the plant is healthy, the buds will never thicken properly if they don’t get enough light during the flowering phase

Light is food for the plant and buds are hungry!

“I’m sooooo hungry. Give me light!” ~ cannabis bud

The second most common reason growers struggle with light levels is keeping their grow lights too close or too far from their plants.

Basically…

Too far = reduced yields and lower bud density

Too close = fading, burning, Hermes, foxtails and poor bud formation

How far away to keep different types of lighting

LED Grow Lights – It’s a good idea to look at the product details for your LED to see how far it should be from your plant, as every model is different. As a general rule of thumb, LEDs 150W and below can typically be placed less than 25cm (12″) apart. Larger 150-300W LED grow lights are typically placed 18-24″ (45-60cm) from the tops of the plants. Above 300W, LEDs may need to be kept over 60cm (24″) away. Regardless of what is listed as the ideal spacing, always watch your plants for signs of bud and leaf burn. Some plants are more sensitive than others and may show signs of stress even when the grow light is at the recommended distance.

– It’s a good idea to look at the product details of your LED to know how far away it should be from your plant as every model is different. As a general rule of thumb, LEDs 150W and below can typically be placed less than 25cm (12″) apart. Larger 150-300W LED grow lights are typically placed 18-24″ (45-60cm) from the tops of the plants. Above 300W, LEDs may need to be kept over 60cm (24″) away. Regardless of what is listed as the ideal spacing, always watch your plants for signs of bud and leaf burn. Some plants are more sensitive than others and may show signs of stress even when the grow light is at the recommended distance. HIDs (MH, HPS, LEC, CMH) – depending on the type and size of grow light – learn how far away MH/HPS grow lights should be from your plants. For LEC/CMH, a 315W CMH should be kept 18-24″ away from your plants, and a 630W CMH should be kept 24-30″ away from the plant tops.

Fluorescent lights, T5s and CFLs – keep them as close as possible without hurting your plants with heat. When cool enough, they can be kept inches away from plants. Make sure all parts of the plants are within a few inches of a fluorescent bulb to get the densest buds. However, it’s important to note that fluorescent lights in general tend to produce lower density than other types of grow lights.

Outdoor growers should try to ensure that the plants get more than 8 hours of direct sunlight each day, but on scorching hot days you may want to protect the plants with an umbrella.

If you want to maximize bud density under LED grow lights, aim to keep the lights as close as possible with no signs of plant stress. However, LED grow lights can also be held too close which will burn your buds and cause fading, hermies, loose buds and/or foxtails. Each LED has an optimal spacing. The manufacturer’s recommendation can usually be found in the product details of the LED.

This ES300 LED grow light shows excellent performance at a distance of about 18″ from the plant tops.

LED-burned buds (from LEDs that are too close) often become thin, fluffy and leafy

It goes both ways. The buds also don’t grow properly fat or become dense if the LEDs are held too far away

MH/HPS lamps produce intense light levels and emit a spectrum of colors that will give you large yields and very dense buds. MH is used in the veg phase and HPS in the flowering phase (usually you can use both bulbs in the same fixture, so you have to switch bulbs). You can also use HPS from seed to harvest, but plants tend to get tall and stretchy in the vegetative stage due to HPS’ red/yellow color spectrum. Here is a quick guide on how far you can keep the MH/HPS grow lights away from your cannabis plants:

150W – 8-12″ away (start at 10″)

250W – 10-14″ away (start at 12″)

400W – 13-19″ away (start at 14″)

600W- 14-22″ removed (start at 16″)

1000W – 18-30″ away (start at 20″)

HPS (high pressure sodium) grow lights are a lot less popular than they used to be because they have big hot bulbs and are less user friendly than LEDs. However, they are one of the best grow lights for dense buds. HPS consistently produce intense density even at the smallest sizes like 150W and 250W.

CMH lamps (also called LEC) are like a combination of MH and HPS and they produce comparable yields and density per watt. However, one benefit of CMH lights is that they produce a higher than average amount of trichomes compared to other types of grow lights. Find out more about CMH grow lights.

315W – 18-24″ away (from 20″)

630W – 24-30″ away (from 26″)

CMH grow lights produce excellent density and make the buds sparkle. I grew this bud under this 315 LEC.

T5s, CFLs, and other fluorescent grow lights should be kept as close to the buds as possible while heat is under control. When kept more than a few inches away from the buds like this, the buds will never get fat or dense

Read the full tutorial on optimal plant light spacing

No matter what grow lights you use…

Use reflective walls to bring as much light to your plants as possible

Keep the lights close to the top of your canopy without raising the heat to unsuitable levels or burning plants with light. Close but not too close. It’s important to figure out how far apart your grow lights should be for optimal growth.

Make sure all the inflorescences are bathed in bright light. Buds in a shady part of the plant will not become dense.

2.) Grow a strain that tends to produce dense buds

Genetics play a big part in how your cannabis plants grow, including the look, smell and taste of your buds.

Indica-dominant strains tend to produce denser buds (although not always, of course). The indica-dominant buds pictured here are incredibly dense and were grown under HPS grow lights, but most strains could never reach that density no matter what you do as a grower. Density is determined to some extent by strain.

Some sativa-dominant strains tend to produce less dense buds, but also offer a cerebral “daytime effect” that many growers love. Sativa-dominant strains can still be heavy yielders, so you can end up with very long buds, as opposed to small thick nuggets like some indica-heavy strains.

Seeing different grows with one strain will help you get an idea of ​​what the buds of that particular strain look like.

Important! There are sometimes different versions of strains from different breeders. You can often find multiple versions of very popular strains, and each version can vary wildly from one another and produce different results.

“White Widow” from one breeder can be completely different from “White Widow” from another breeder. So when researching varieties, always pay attention to the breeder in addition to the variety name. Learn how to research and find the right strain.

How to research a marijuana strain

(or read the full tutorial here)

Make a list of a few possible strains you want to grow – If you don’t already have an idea of ​​what strain you want to grow, it helps to start narrowing down your list of possible strains. When researching a new grow I usually start with a large seed bank as they give you lots of helpful information about each strain. These great seed sources usually have a “Strain Selector” option that allows you to type in the specific traits you are looking for and get a list of results. Visit our trusted seed suppliers page to get strains from good breeders.

– If you still have no idea what strain you want to grow, it helps to narrow down your list of potential strains first. When researching a new grow I usually start with a large seed bank as they give you lots of helpful information about each strain. These great seed sources usually have a “Strain Selector” option that allows you to type in the specific traits you are looking for and get a list of results. Visit our trusted seed suppliers page to get strains from good breeders. Find a grow journal with pictures of your strain in the process of growing – Type “STRAIN-NAME grow” into Google.com and see regular results as well as Google image results. When looking at image results, it’s important to click through to the page rather than just looking at the image so you can learn more. These steps can give you a good starting point for finding a grow journal that has your strain in it, but not always. Also, remember to pay attention to which breeder the breeder got their strain from.

during the growth process – Type “STRAIN-NAME grow” into Google.com and see the regular results as well as the Google image results. When looking at image results, it’s important to click through to the page rather than just looking at the image so you can learn more. These steps can give you a good starting point for finding a grow journal that has your strain in it, but not always. Also, remember to pay attention to which breeder the breeder got their strain from. Search the strain name on Youtube – you might find people who have grown the strain and documented their cultivation with a video. Videos are a great way to give you an idea of ​​what your strain might look like in the flowering phase and many breeders post full video grow journals on Youtube. Again, pay attention to the variety breeder.

– you might find people who have grown the strain and documented their cultivation with videos. Videos are a great way to give you an idea of ​​what your strain might look like in the flowering phase and many breeders post full video grow journals on Youtube. Again, pay attention to the variety breeder. Find Strain Breeder on Social Media – If you are interested in a specific breeder, see if you can find their social media account. Many breeders upload pictures and information about their strains. Many breeders will also answer questions

– If you are interested in a specific breeder, see if you can find their social media account. Many breeders upload pictures and information about their strains. Many breeders will also answer questions. Find the Breeder’s Website – Similar to social media, many breeders have a website where they have more information about their genetics and where to get them.

– Similar to social media, many breeders have a website where they have more information about their genetics and where to get them. Seedfinder – I like http://en.seedfinder.eu/ for strain research. It’s one of the best ways to find out the genealogy and lineage of a strain from a particular breeder. It has growing reviews and pictures for some strains that are really helpful, but that can be good or bad as many strains lack any kind of breeder feedback. Some of the reviews are in German or other languages. You can translate almost any language into English by copying and pasting it here: https://translate.google.com/

Examples of dense photoperiod strains

Examples of dense autoflowering strains

One last thing to keep in mind… Appearance and density are important to many growers, and bud appearance is part of the overall experience of using cannabis.

I love dense buds as much as the next grower (how do growers maximize trichome production?)

…But when it comes to strain selection, I recommend looking for strains that will produce the effects you like, rather than just thinking about density or looks. Some strains may not produce buds that look as dense as what you see in magazines and online, but will give you exactly the high you’re looking for.

These Sour OG buds weren’t the densest, but the bud effect was out of this world

3.) Keep the temperature below 30°C (85°F)

While it’s not always possible to control the temperature, there’s a lot you can do (especially indoors) to keep the temperature at the optimal level for bud development. Choosing an appropriate strain for your growing environment will also make a big difference.

Cannabis plants like temperatures around 65-80°F (18-26°C) in the flowering phase for best development. Temperatures above 30°C (85°F) will typically grow bud parts that are noticeably more airy than the same plant grown at reasonable temperatures.

Indica-heavy strains can handle the cold better

Sativa or equatorial strains can handle heat better

Too much heat triggers heat burn, airy buds, foxtails and also reduces potency and smell, especially in indica-heavy strains that are less heat resistant. High temperatures can also lead to shabby buds if your plant dwindles as a result of the stress.

This bud was exposed to high temperatures and never really grew more than a few calyxes and lots of sugar leaves

Foxtail caused by heat – the entire bud is thin and airy

Too much heat will cause thin buds and strange growth patterns

Temperatures that are too cold (especially during the first 6 weeks of flowering) are less common, but can also result in airy buds that never thicken and grow densely.

Cold temperatures can also prevent the development of buds, like this plant grown in a cold basement

Cold temperatures can also cause leaves and stems to turn purple. Purple leaves can be problematic as green leaves harvest more energy from light. Therefore, it’s a good idea to avoid turning purple leaves too early in the flowering process.

Cool temperatures tend to bring out purple, but this reduces yields if it happens early in the flowering phase, so keep plants warm until just before harvest

Although indica-leaning strains tend to be more cold-tolerant and sativa-leaning strains more heat-tolerant, almost all strains available today are some kind of hybrid. Rather than just relying on classifying a strain as indica or sativa, it’s important to learn about each strain and how it responds to heat and cold. More importantly, watch your plant for signs of stress!

4.) Nutrients – Use the right N-P-K ratios for the flowering phase! (but don’t exaggerate) (but don’t exaggerate)

Give your plants the right balance of cannabis nutrients during the flowering phase (while avoiding nutrient burn). Not only will this help you avoid nutrient deficiencies, but it will also give your plant the building blocks it needs for bud formation.

Don’t forget the pH value! It can be tempting to ignore this part, but pH is also incredibly important when it comes to nutrient absorption. Proper pH control is one of the best ways to ensure the plant has easy access to nutrients at the roots.

N-P-K values ​​are listed on the back of most nutrient bottles

What nutrients does a cannabis plant need to form dense buds? During the budding phase, make sure you provide a little nitrogen, lots of potassium and a good source of phosphorus.

Best for the flowering phase of cannabis (“Bloom Nutrients”):

Some Nitrogen (N)

A good source of phosphorus (P) – definitely higher than nitrogen and possibly higher than potassium as well

Lots of potassium (K) – about twice the amount of nitrogen or more

A relatively low nitrogen concentration during the flowering phase helps the buds grow thicker

It is important to avoid giving too much N while the plants are budding as too much nitrogen will prevent proper bud formation and result in lower yields and airy buds. This means you shouldn’t be using your veg or general purpose nutrients (which are N rich) during the flowering phase.

Nutrient bottles indicate their nutrient levels with 3 numbers. These numbers stand for N-P-K levels. During the flowering phase, avoid giving the plants too much nitrogen (N), but make sure the plants get a good source of phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).

Dyna-Gro ‘Bloom’ plant food, shown below, is an example of a flowering formula showing good N-P-K ratios for the flowering phase of cannabis. All high-quality cannabis nutrients designed for flowering are formulated to give your plants exactly what they need to produce bud.

Dyna-Grow Bloom is a one-part nutrient for the flowering phase of cannabis. Give 1.5 tsp/gallon for the first 2-3 weeks after plants start flowering, then 1 tsp/gallon thereafter until pre-harvest flushing (many growers give plants plain water a few times before harvest day, known as “flushing”. Plants).

You can pretty much take the guesswork out of nutrient ratios by using a cannabis-friendly “flower” nutrient formula during the flowering phase.

Examples of cannabis-friendly “Bloom” NPK ratios (lower N, higher P & K):

3-12-6

4-8-7

1-4-5

2-3-5

Note: There is no “perfect” NPK ratio as the nutrients are made from different chemical forms of N, P and K. Not all forms are equally available to plants, and certain combinations affect the uptake of nutrients. For example, some sources of phosphorus are more easily absorbed by the plant. Nutrients with these forms of phosphorus tend to have lower ratios of P than other nutrients, even though the plant “gets” the same amount of phosphorus. For this reason, it’s best to research and use a nutrient brand that’s proven to work for growing cannabis, rather than just going by the NPK. There are many factors that go into what constitutes nutrients for cannabis, and the raw numbers don’t always tell the whole story.

Tip 2: Avoid nutrients labeled “Grow”, “Vegetative” or “All-Purpose” during the flowering phase! In a pinch, if you can’t find specific bloom nutrients, get cactus nutrients as they use a similar nutrient ratio to flowering cannabis plants.

For those not using nutrients, starting with improved and composted super soil is the best way to ensure plants are getting access to the nutrients they need at the right time. As a bonus, when you start out with properly composted soil, it’s the one time you don’t have to worry about pH levels. For growers looking to add a nutrient boost to their organic grow during the flowering phase, Flower Girl is an excellent organic supplement that works well with cannabis.

Learn more about cannabis nutrients

5.) Expose all buds to both strong light and a gentle breeze – each cola needs space to increase density to maximum levels!

The plant’s densest and heaviest buds have a few inches of space to themselves and are exposed to both bright light and airflow.

Buds hidden within the plant by leaves (without access to much airflow or light) remain airy and tend to never thicken or become dense. In fact, buds sitting in still, unmoving air can stop developing entirely. Because of this, you often see small buds on very leafy plants.

Let me show you how much difference exposing buds to bright light and air makes. This example used defoliation. Defoliation means removing leaves and is an advanced technique not recommended for beginners. Defoliation should only be used on very green, healthy plants that are under bright light.

For those worried about losing too much weight, similar results can be achieved much more safely by simply tucking in leaves to reveal the bud sites.

Here’s a leafy, healthy plant grown under bright grow lights – notice how many buds are hidden in the center of the plant. You can’t even see them all!

Here is the plant immediately after plugging and leaf removal – note that the buds are now much more exposed to the air

Less than 2 weeks later (and after another defoliation session)

Learn more about defoliation

The largest colas (“cola” is Spanish for “tail” and a common slang term used to describe big, long cannabis buds) are the ones that are most exposed to light and air. This is probably because cannabis plants are wind pollinated in nature. Buds that are not exposed to air can never be pollinated in the wild, so the plants may “abandon” them. However, when buds are exposed to light and air, the plant “knows” that they may be wind pollinated, so the plant expends energy fattening them. Hidden buds don’t get fat, so give your buds some space and expose them to a gentle breeze!

For the densest buds, make sure each cola has a few inches of space to itself during development

An easy way to achieve this growth pattern is to use the duplication technique while the plant is still young. This will cause the plant to spread out and produce many well-spaced colas.

6.) Lower humidity below 55% RH during the last 2-3 weeks before harvest

Keep humidity below 55% during flowering (and as low as 45% in the last 2-3 weeks before harvest) to trigger your plant’s natural response to kick bud production into high gear. Very low RH in late bloom can increase density, encourage resin production, create a stronger smell/flavor and possibly even increase potency. Lower humidity also prevents the formation of bud rot amidst dense buds.

Indoor growers have many ways to control humidity in the grow room.

Outdoors, it’s best to find a strain suitable for growing in your climate and provide shelter to the plants when you know bad weather is about to come. Protect the buds from getting too wet in rainy weather and if possible try to plant them in a spot where they will get some wind.

Lower humidity levels in the last few weeks before harvest can increase resin production and bud density

7.) Use supplements to increase density

Before thinking about supplements, make sure you provide the right base nutrients first. Without the right base nutrients, your plant simply will not grow or produce buds, no matter what supplements you provide. So get your base nutrients first. But once you know you’re giving your plants the essentials, what do you add next?

Some cannabis supplements claim to increase yield and bud density, and many of these supplements contain a source of sugar. They also often contain ingredients such as amino acids, humic acids, vitamins, trace elements and other additives that may be helpful for bud formation. There is another common bloom booster “formula” that adds a lot of extra phosphorus and potassium.

The question of which is the most effective supplement is still awaited, but many growers are content with bloom-promoting supplements that are sources of…

carbohydrates/sugars

amino acids

humic acids

vitamins

trace elements

I personally don’t use this type of supplement (following the other tips in this density tutorial will produce very dense bud without any supplements) so I can’t recommend any specific one, but some of the most popular cannabis supplements based on this type of Formula include…

The supplements listed above use ingredients that add only tiny amounts of Base Nutrients (NPK). They use other ingredients to help the plant make better use of its resources, or in the case of sugar, to bulk up the buds directly. But that’s not the only type of density-boosting supplement.

Add 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of Blackstrap Molasses when watering (for soil or coco) in the last 2-3 weeks before harvest to potentially increase density as well as improve bud taste/smell

As a cheap alternative to expensive flowering-promoting supplements, some growers water the plants with a small amount of blackstrap molasses for the last few weeks or so beforehand to help the buds grow bigger/denser (it’s just the normal stuff that you in your kitchen or at The Grocery Store). It adds sugars as well as amino acids and various trace elements. As a bonus, molasses can also improve the taste/smell of your buds. However, anything organic like molasses is not suitable for a hydroponic reservoir! Only for soil and coconut growers 🙂

Dietary supplement to increase density with Extra P & K

Phosphorus (P) increases the number of flowers

Potassium (K) increases bud weight/density

Many popular density/yield enhancing supplements contain added phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), sometimes with a small amount of sulfur (S), and possibly other ingredients such as amino acids, trace minerals and/or sugars.

However, it is very important to use this type of supplement sparingly as your regular Bloom base nutrients are already quite high in P and K. Although you want to make sure your plant is getting as much P and K as it can use during the making buds, you don’t want to give too much or you’ll just burn your plants and/or cause a nutrient deficiency (too much of a nutrient can cause defects in others).

Popular Yield/Density Increase Supplements with Added P&K (Most PK Supplements Also Contain Some Unlisted Ingredients)

8.) Don’t harvest too early!

Harvesting at the right time will give your buds the time they need to develop at their best. If you harvest too early your yields will decrease and you will usually end up with more airy and less developed buds. Worse, harvesting too early results in reduced potency and some people may experience headaches from early harvested bud.

Do not harvest while the pistils are still white and sticking out

Wait for the buds to mature and thicken!

These buds were harvested at the right time, which gave them the opportunity to thicken and tighten as much as possible.

9.) Dry and cure your buds

Proper post-harvest drying and curing can help the buds grow a bit denser, while also contributing to better taste, smell, potency, and appearance.

Proper drying/curing can help ‘tighten’ the buds

Learn how to properly dry and cure your buds

10.) Don’t overwater your plants – it’s boring, but true!

This may seem boring, but just a few simple precautions can ensure your plant grows faster and produces bigger yields. If you want to get the densest buds possible, you want to cover all your bases.

So if your plant looks limp all the time, even if your plant looks otherwise healthy, it is likely to hurt your yields.

Roots “breathe” oxygen, so good root health means giving just the right amount of water while maximizing the amount of oxygen available to aerated roots. If the roots aren’t getting enough oxygen, the plant can’t get water or use nutrients properly. As a result of unhappy roots, leaves may show signs of drooping or lack of nutrients and buds will stop developing.

Therefore, it is important to water the plants properly and take good care of the roots for dense buds!

11.) Get a large enough container and use a “smart pot” or “air pot” if possible.

The type and size of containers you use to grow cannabis will determine how tall your plant can get and how much bud it can ultimately carry. Smaller containers can only support smaller plants, and small plants can only grow relatively small buds. So when you’re growing cannabis, it’s important to get a container large enough to support the desired plant size.

Some types of containers like smart pots (and air pots) will actually make your plant grow faster. A smart pot is a fabric pot that allows plant roots to give air from the sides resulting in faster growth, while an air pot is a plastic pot with holes in the side. They also prevent plants from becoming root bound from a container that is too small. The main disadvantage is that the growing medium dries out faster (since it also gets air from the sides), which means you have to water the plants more often. Find out more about smart pots and air pots.

Get “smart pots” or “air pots” (containers that let air in from the side) to prevent plants from rooting. This makes plants larger than in a normal plant container. These types of pots also cause plants to grow faster.

​

Ultimately, density is definitely not the only thing to consider when deciding on bud quality. There can be times when the buds are too dense (increasing the chances of mold and bud rot) and there are also several strains that produce less dense buds that have amazing effects. In my opinion, an ounce is an ounce is an ounce. To me, harvesting an ounce of airy bud with great effects is just as good as an ounce of dense bud with great effects, so enjoy what you’re growing while you strive for better!

Review: How To Grow Dense Buds!

1.) Provide the right amount of light

Not enough light is the most common reason why buds don’t develop as densely as they could. On the other hand, too bright lights (or buds too close to grow lights) can also cause buds to develop poorly and/or produce airy foxtails.

Choose the right grow lights

2.) Start with a strain that tends to form dense buds

Start with the right strain to grow buds the way you want. Some strains will not produce tight, dense buds no matter what you do.

Indica-heavy strains tend to have denser buds, but it’s a good idea to always research a strain before growing it.

Learn where to get good strains

One strain that reliably produces dense buds and good yields is Moby Dick. This hybrid strain is popular because although the buds produce strong, psychoactive sativa-like effects, the plant forms dense buds and has a relatively short flowering time, just like an indica.

More examples of dense photoperiod strains

Examples of dense autoflowering strains

3.) Check temperature

Cannabis wants just the right temperature for optimal bud growth. Temperatures that are too hot or too cold can cause the buds to become airy.

Start with a thermometer that also measures humidity)

Cannabis likes temperatures around 65-80°F (18-26°C) in the flowering phase for best development.

Indica-heavy strains are better and handle the cold better

Sativa or equatorial strains can handle heat better

Learn how to regulate the temperature in the grow room

4.) Cannabis Nutrients

The buds won’t get fat and dense if the basic nutrients aren’t right. Nutrient issues can be caused by incorrect pH levels, too little nutrients, too many nutrients, or by the wrong supply of nutrients to the plant during flowering.

Learn everything you need to know about cannabis nutrients

5.) Expose all buds to both light and a gentle breeze

Poor airflow around the buds will prevent those buds from developing as densely as possible. In the wild, cannabis is a wind-pollinated plant, and it only uses energy to grow and fatten buds exposed to a gentle breeze in the fresh air.

So make sure your buds are exposed to the airflow. A small circulation fan works great to add more air movement to the grow space.

Instructions for air circulation and exhaust air

6.) Maintain roots

Underwatering, overwatering and/or root issues (such as root rot or a container that is too small) will affect yields and prevent buds from becoming as dense as they could be as the plant is unable to run at maximum efficiency.

Roots “breathe” oxygen, so good root health means giving just the right amount of water while maximizing the amount of oxygen available to aerated roots.

Therefore, it is important to water the plants properly and take good care of the roots for dense buds. Your plants will thank you.

There are also a few popular root supplements that will help take care of your root health:

Botanicare Hydroguard <– Highly recommended, especially for hydroponics to prevent root rot. I use this on every hydroponic grow from seed to harvest. Seaweed Kelp Supplement <– Helps roots resist and recover from heat damage. This is not to be used as a nutrient - it is just a supplement that is great for root health. Great White <– Popular multi-purpose root health supplement for cannabis growers 7.) Keep the humidity below 55% RH for the last 2-3 weeks before harvest Indoor growers have many ways to control humidity in the grow room. Outdoors, it's best to find a strain suitable for growing in your climate and provide shelter to the plants when you know bad weather is about to come. Protect outdoor plants from wind in dry weather. Protect the buds from getting too wet in rainy weather. 8.) Cannabis supplements to increase density These supplements focus on improving plant processes. I personally don't use these types of supplements so I can't recommend any particular one, but many growers swear by them. Some popular dietary supplements of this type are …​ All-round supplements that help plants grow better in general Popular Yield/Density Increase Supplements with Added P&K (Most PK Supplements Also Contain Some Unlisted Ingredients) 9.) Don't harvest too early Harvesting at the right time will give your buds the time they need to develop at their best. If you harvest too early your yields will decrease and you will usually end up with more airy and less developed buds. Always harvest at the right time! An important tool for harvesting at the right time is a magnifying glass to examine the buds closely, such as a jeweler's loupe or (even better) a digital magnifying glass that shows the trichomes on a screen. I look at trichomes on buds with a USB microscope plugged into my phone. So far this seems to be the easiest accurate way to look at trichomes (and you can make the picture big so you're not squinting through a tiny jeweler's loupe 🙂 Learn how to look at trichomes under a magnifying glass 10.) Dry & Cure Proper post-harvest drying and curing can help the buds grow a bit denser, while also contributing to better taste, smell, potency, and appearance. Read the full drying and curing tutorial 11.) Get a large enough container If your container is too small, your plant will not be able to support large, dense buds. By choosing the right size container, you will help maximize your plant's potential! What size container should I use? Jump to... Learn more about how to grow top quality bud Plant training – topping & more! Complete breed journals How long does it take to grow weed?

Have you ever seen a bud crumble into powder when you roll a joint? Learn how to rehydrate your weed stash in record time with our three easy methods.

One of the worst things that can happen to your weed stash is leaving it bone dry. If this has happened to you, don’t worry, your buds aren’t helpless! With a little know-how, it is possible to rehydrate cannabis using a few simple techniques.

Some of them can even bring new flavors, while others can quickly destroy your stash if done carelessly. Even so, your pot will never be the same again, but you can help return it to its (almost) former glory.

THE BEST WAY OF ALL – PREVENTION

The two most common reasons weed dries past its sweet spot is post-harvest over-drying and inadequate storage.

Cannabis dries from the outside in. The outer leaves may appear dry, but the inner buds and stems can still contain significant amounts of water. As such, it is common for growers to assess drought using the stem cracking trick.

If you cut your weed short to dry, the stems will lose much of their rigidity and stiffness. When you handle a stem, it bends without breaking. Therefore, the general rule of thumb is that if you can break the stem of a bud cleanly in half, it is sufficiently dry. If the stem still bends, it needs more time. While this trick works great for the more experienced, it’s by no means the most scientific method.

In temperate climates with average humidity, expect a slow and even drying time. However, in dry climates it is important to have a humidifier nearby.

USE MOISTURE CONTROL PACKAGES TO MAINTAIN PERFECT MOISTURIZATION

After the last trimming, the buds should be placed in an airtight container to cure. Unfortunately, weed continues to exchange water with the surrounding air, so your prized buds will end up bone dry if left unattended. Luckily, a moisture pack is one of the easiest ways to maintain the perfect environment for weed.

Not only do these nifty little packets work with both large and small harvests, but the silicone gel inside takes care of exchanging moisture with the air around your buds. The result is a perfectly maintained relative humidity of 58-65% – the ideal point for curing.

TOO LATE, MY WEED IS BONE DRY – WHAT TO DO NOW?

Luckily, cannabis can release water into the air in the same way it can suck water molecules back into the bud.

The solution is relatively simple. All you need is an airtight container (again!) or something very close by. In this remedial situation, airtightness is not essential to success. But after rehydration and for long-term storage, airtight containers are indeed necessary.

The general idea is to increase the relative humidity in the container to create a microclimate. Water molecules disperse from zones of high concentration to zones of lower concentration until they equalize.

There are several ways to do this — some you can even do regardless of excessive dryness. All of these methods are slight variations of each other (except for the Super Express methods described below), but they have their nuances.

3 WAYS TO REHYDRATE YOUR WEED

SLICE OF BREAD, SALAD OR DAMP PAPER TOWEL METHOD

This is a technique without added flavor. Take a slice of bread and moisten (do not soak) it. Alternatively, lettuce leaves are also excellent. A damp paper towel can also be used, but be careful not to have too much water.

Place it on the grass in a thick plastic or ziploc bag, seal tightly, and let sit for an hour or two. When the time is up, check your grass and move it around a bit. Check the salad, bread or towel for how much drier it is. This is a clear indication of the amount of water retained by the buds.

Depending on the size of your stash, you may need to repeat this a few times. The trick is not to rush it. For example, do not over-moisten the bread and do not leave the same lettuce leaf in it for too long. This could lead to mold growth that could spread to the buds.

Examine thoroughly and when satisfied, move the weed to a suitable airtight container for longer storage.

METHOD OF FRUIT PEELING

This trick provides a little fun factor and is great for experimenting. You can use different types of fruit peels and herbs to rehydrate your weed, just as detailed above. The difference is that taste and smell are also transferred.

The most commonly used fruits are oranges and limes as they are very useful to rehydrate your buds but also give the weed its citrus flavor. They should not be used for long term storage and curing as they could cause mold or bud rot. A daily close inspection is required to avoid any kind of fungal attack. Simply replace the peel every few days to ensure the extra flavor lasts.

Banana peels are also very popular. Also quicker to use, but they also rot much quicker. Some people swear it makes the weed more potent, although there’s no concrete evidence to support this. Apple peels don’t transfer their flavor quite as effectively, but they release moisture slowly and evenly, which is great for even rehydration.

Regardless of the fruit you choose, the trick is to leave the skins on the buds for several hours. It can take a few hours to a day for the buds to be in good, smokable form.

You can also add things like mint, cilantro, rosemary, thyme, or other fragrant herbs. They not only serve to rehydrate, but also give your smoke a kick.

HOT STEAM METHOD

If you are in a hurry and cannot afford to wait that long, there is a way to speed up the process. But a big warning; You run the risk of cooking your weed or making it too mushy to smoke.

Take a large pot, fill it with water and bring it to a boil. Once the water is boiling, remove the pot from the stove and set it on a safe surface. Next, cover the pot with a work towel or piece of cloth and secure it around the rim of the pot, being careful not to burn yourself (use oven mitts!).

Now place your weed on the cloth and let evaporation do the rest. The hot vapor will rush through the cloth and buds, providing maximum hydration in record time.

Make sure to rotate the buds regularly to distribute the vapor evenly. After 30 minutes to an hour, your buds should be ready to use!