How To Make Chenille Potholders? The 80 Top Answers

Hi! Today’s post is all about potholders! Pot holders are one of my favorite things I make from leftover fabric and they’re also one of my favorite things I give for housewarming and Christmas gifts. I knew it was only a matter of time before I got down to making potholders with our new The Front Porch fabric and I love love love these!

I think I’ve also found my perfect combination of patterns…a simple little patchwork style potholder paired with a fancier, slightly larger one. I chose to mix and match just the navy, blue, and green prints for this pair and I love the color combos! It’s always interesting to see how versatile a fabric collection can be if you just mix and match certain colors from the group.

I was so excited when I realized I could make these two pot holders out of layered cake squares (you need to assemble the ruffle fabric from a layered cake square). The bias binding for each potholder was also cut from a 10″ x 10″ square…how cool is that?!

I’ve wanted to make the pot holder above for so long, and now that I’ve made it I don’t know why I haven’t tried this pattern before. The tutorial for this is from Nana Company’s Pretty Little Potholder tutorial. Amy’s tutorial is absolutely wonderful! I followed almost all of the instructions exactly, except I used a 2″ wide double fold binding for the ruffle binding, used a 2 1/4″ wide outer binding, used Clover Wonder Clips to hold everything in place while sewing, Crosshatch quilting made lines about 3/4″ apart and used this tutorial for crosshatch quilting. I will definitely be making more potholders based on this pattern in the future!

For the smaller pot holder, I used my shabby patchwork pot holder tutorial and made the 16 patch version. I added a bit more quilting than in the past and I ended up really liking the extra quilting. I also used two coats of Insul-Brite in the small pot holder instead of one coat of Insul-Brite and one coat of cotton wool as I suggest in my tutorial.

I think the backs are just as cute as the fronts! There are so many options for fun potholders! Can’t wait to make some of these using just The Front Porch’s reds and greens… perfect for Christmas! Now for a few more ideas for sewing your pot holders…

If you love sewing potholders or want to make your own, here are my top sewing tips:

If possible, cut the pieces slightly larger than you want your finished size so you can trim them evenly after quilting.

Use a walking foot when quilting…with so many layers, the fabric tends to shift and using the walking foot helps prevent this.

Use two coats of Insul-Bright to make your oven mitts extra heat resistant. The Insul-Bright product directions say it doesn’t matter which side is out, but I always place the two metallic sides on the outside of the potholders.

Zigzag stitch around all edges before tying to make tying easier. This is particularly useful when binding bevel edges.

instead of pens. Use Clover Wonder Clips Red 50 Pack instead of pins.

to round the edges (I used the smallest template in the set) I used Creative Grids Non-Slip Rotary Cutting Circles – Set of Five Quilting Ruler Templates CGRCRCL to round the edges (I used the smallest template in the set)

Simple hanging tabs can be made from 2 1/2″ x 4″ rectangles. Simply cut in half lengthways, open and fold the raw edges in half, then fold in half again and clasp the raw edges. Sew 1/8 inch away from each side to secure.

Another of my favorite potholder tutorials is my Log Cabin Potholder Tutorial!

Well there you have it… my favorite pot holder ideas… I’d love to hear if you have any other favorite pot holder patterns, tutorials, or tips to share!

Thanks for your visit!

See how to make a pot holder with my new pot holder tutorial – scroll down how cute they look in a set with a standard size and a mini version for the play kitchen – suitable for kids!

My 5 year old daughter can’t wait until she is old enough to have a cat. Since we said she has to wait until she starts school (she starts at age 6 where we live) she has one year left. But until then, she’s made it a point to surround herself with anything cat-related. I thought these pretty cat footprints would be perfect for her and oh boy was I right 🙂 She loved what I made with them!

I made some small pot holders for her play kitchen. She had so much fun rearranging them and I think I like her mini potholders better than my “real” ones. Of course, I also had to replicate some of the standard sized potholders! (and speaking of mini, check out the best free baby quilt patterns!)

And since I was already cutting and sewing, I also took some photos to make this tutorial for you guys. Actually a lot of photos, because I couldn’t resist these pretty cat-like prints. (See what I’ve made here? 🙂 Purrrfect! (Well, again!) Actually that’s the name of the fabric collection – Purrfect Day, designed by My Mind’s Eye for Riley Blake Designs. So fitting!

The finished size of my pot holder is 7″ and the mini pot holder finished at 5″ square.

And if you love sewing for the home, check out these too:

Accessory for sewing a pot holder

In all, you’ll need a quarter yard of fabric (can be leftovers) plus two 8-inch squares of insulating cotton wool per potholder.

Which interface to use for a potholder

I used two coats of Insul-Bright to make your oven mitts extra heat resistant. And to make them fatter. You can use 1 layer of Insul-Bright plus one layer of cotton. You can use a single layer of thick cotton instead. Do not use polyester-based cotton for potholders as they do not effectively block heat. Read more about interfacing, including insulating thermal padding, in this interfacing guide.

Useful terms, tools and other things

Odif 505 for temporary spraying of layers. Ignore it if you don’t have it and use safety pins instead.

Walking foot, highly recommended for any quilting project

, highly recommended sewing clips (or pins) for any quilting project

cloth scissors

ruler and rotary cutter

disappearing ink marker

How to make a pot holder – tutorial

Here’s everything you need to do to make your own beautiful potholders. Binding instructions included!

As mentioned before, there are two sizes in this tutorial. One is the standard size for a 7 inch pot holder and the other is the cute mini pot holder with a 5 inch size.

Step 1 – Cut the fabric and insulating batting

NOTE: Measurements for the standard pot holder size are given and the measurements for the mini version are added in brackets.

Cut from fabric:

an 8 ½” square for the back (6 ½” for the mini version)

a 7 ½ square for the front (5 ½” for the mini version) – or see below for a 4 block patchwork version

5″ x 2″ in main fabric for hanging

1 ½” square to cover the hanging loop

Binding: 30″ long strip of 2 ½” binding

How to cut the binding for this project: Cut your strip along the grain line or across it, it doesn’t matter as you will need a straight grain binding. No round corners and curves, so there’s no need to cut it at an angle unless you want to, of course. I cut mine at 2 ½” edge to edge to even out the thickness due to 2 layers of batting. You can get away with a slightly narrower binding, 2 ¼” should be fine too.

Cut from the insole (Insul-Bright):

two pieces – 8 ½” square (6 ½” for the mini version)

OPTION – want a four patch block on your potholder?

Want your potholder to have a nice four-patch block on the front? Use my Beginner Quilting Tutorial: How to Make a Four Patch Block.

Please remember that in this case you will need two distinct 8″ squares of contrasting fabric – this makes two four patch blocks. For the mini pot holder you will need two 6 inch squares to get 5 ½ inches. raw front part for the mini pot holder.

Step 2 – Assemble Parts

Lay your backing right side down and then place 2 layers of the insulating batting (or batting) on ​​top. Then place the potholder top right side up. Secure with safety pins or spray the layers together. You can use Odif 505 to do this, for me this is the easiest way to prevent it from moving.

Step 3 – Quilt the layers

I added straight quilting to the potholder. Straight quilting is a relatively easy way to add texture to your potholder, even on a home machine. I sewed my first seam down the center, starting at the top and working towards the bottom of the potholder. I sewed about half an inch apart, working my way out to one side, then the other. The previous quilt line was my placement guide.

Bonus tip: For even quilting lines, you can either use a guide (mine came with the walking foot) or mark lines with a disappearing ink fabric marker. Draw a starting line down the middle from top to bottom. Also, make sure to always start your lines at the top and sew down.

Step 4 – Align it

Trim the excess batting and backing fabric, making sure all corners are at a 90 degree angle. You will need a 7″ x 7″ square. (5″ x 5″ for the mini pot holder) Using a ruler and a rotary cutter is the best way.

Once you have cut it to a 7 inch (5 inch) square you will need to attach the hanging loop and then tie the edges. Let’s see how.

Make the hanging loop

Make the hanging loop or use a ribbon.

I prefer to make my own loop as it adds the finishing touch. How I sew it:

Using the 5 x 2 inch piece, fold it in half wrong sides and press. Open and fold the two long raw edges toward the center, then fold again along the center crease. Press. Edge stitch along the two long edges.

STEP – Attach the hanging loop

Fold your new bow in half. You sew it to the top right corner on the front of your pot holder. Like this:

Fold the loop in half, then place it in the top right corner with the raw ends pointing towards the corner but not quite touching it. See photo (1) above. Staple and cover with the 1 ½ inch square – the square should be wrong side up and aligned with the corner of the main piece. Pin and sew across the diagonal, catching the hanging loop in the seam. Then fold the sewn square back along the sewn line and press. You will get a triangle. Sew a few lines of stitching along the edge to attach the hanging loop and add some texture to this piece of fabric. loop done.

Tie the raw edges of the pot holder

Take your 30″ long strip of 2 ½” binding and press it in half if you haven’t already done so. Then see here how to attach the binding to the pot holder.

Here’s how to tie a potholder, quilt, mug rug, pretty much anything.

This is your final step and I have detailed instructions for you – just in case you haven’t done anything like this before – jump to this page to tie your potholder.

Also, feel free to use this must-have little binding hack, it will make your project even easier to complete (and this is actually the ONLY hack I use when binding).

And your pot holder is done. Isn’t it cute! Make a set and you can add a few sizes. Now you can bake in style!

What is the best size for an oven mitt?

There are several standard sizes for square oven mitts, anything from 6 inches to 10 inches. I currently use 7 inch and 8 inch potholders in my kitchen. And here and there I might borrow the miniature 5-inch pot holders from my daughter’s play kitchen to use as cup mats for my morning coffee. If she lets me!

Save this tutorial for later on Pinterest by using THIS link or using the image below:

As always I’d love to see if you made a potholder using this tutorial. Please post a picture on Instagram and tag me @applegreencottage or #applegreencottage – so I can take a look!

WANT MORE FREE TUTORIALS AND PATTERNS?

Get email updates and never miss new patterns, printables, and tutorials. You can now also get the Fabric Hanging Basket Template for FREE by signing up at THIS link. A cute and easy to sew!

Or… check out the sample of the NEA Small Crossbody Bag in my shop. This bag shot to the top of my best sellers less than a week after it was released. Check out all the gorgeous versions from sample tests here:

chenille

Chenille is an incredibly soft, textured fabric. It’s been described as “carrying a hug,” and rightly so! Chenille yarns are fluffy and soft, often knitted or woven in bright, beautiful colors. These yarns are also elegant when knit in jewel or classic tones. And it is very easy to sew!

Pretreatment: Some chenille can be machine washed in cold water; Test your fabric to be sure. I recommend using a laundry bag with any knit sweater of this type. Lay flat to dry as you would a fine sweater.

Needles and thread: 75/11 stretch needles work best for chenille. Cotton/polyester or all polyester threads are recommended.

Seams, seam finishes and hems: For a standard machine, use a zigzag stitch (2.0 width, 2.0-2.5 length) for the construction. If you have a serger, use a balanced 3 or 4 strand stitch. Hems can be machine finished with a cover stitch, twin needle hem (use a stretch twin, size 4.0/75) or by zig zag stitching the hem in place. Seams need to be reworked as chenille tends to detach. If you’re not constructing with a serger, use a strip of knit knit that’s ¾ to 1 inch wide and wrap it around the seams. Zigzag in place.

Interlining: Hot melts are generally not recommended for chenille as they crush the pile. For areas where you may need reinforcement, use a layer of jersey knit or knit knit of a similar color to the chenille.

Suggested Patterns: Garments that look like sweaters: sweaters, coats, cardigans, tops, tank tops, vests, t-shirts, turtlenecks, shawls, ponchos, scarves

Creative Possibilities: Chenille makes beautiful, textured embellishments and looks particularly good when paired with velvet or boucle.

Additional Tips: Use the pattern weight when cutting your chenille pattern; They work much better than pens. You might consider using bulldog clips or spring-like clothespins to hold the seams together before sewing since the needles will get lost in the staple. And have a vacuum cleaner ready!

Copyright (c) 2018 by EmmaOneSock

Chenille Brush The secret to your success is this incredible new tool that fluffs up Chenille By The Inch® every time! Special nylon bristles separate fibers but won’t damage your fabrics. Brush simply sewn strips to start the fluff, spray with a little water and brush again to separate the fibers. The fluffy look of vintage chenille is yours every time! Your Price: $5.99 Retail Price: $3.99 Saving: $2.00

Quantity in stock:8

Product code: 020101 Quantity in stock:8 Quantity:

VELVET

Composition: Whether it’s cotton or polyester, velvet offers a plush, soft feel. Cotton is a fiber that can create an upscale look and be very durable, while polyester offers durability as well as insulation and wrinkle resistance.

Care: Professional furniture cleaning with solvent-based cleaning agents required. (Cleaning code: S. Learn more here)

Durability: Velvet ages naturally over time, resulting in slight stains or dents that add to its character and sheen.

Style: The three-dimensional texture of Velvet makes colors appear richer and more vivid. It creates both a visual and tactile experience that conveys approachable elegance.

Ideal for: The fashionable home. Uptown looks with a downtown sensibility.

Pot holders make the perfect project – they’re quick and easy to sew, they make great gifts and you can use leftovers from larger projects. Follow this tutorial and you’ll have some ready to show off in no time.

Quilted pot holder

Level: Easy

Finished size: 8″ square

What you need

Eight 2½-inch squares of fabric in color A (Navy)

Eight 2½-inch squares of color B (white)

9″ square backing (Navy)

9 inch square of Insul Bright insulation material

9″ square of cotton batting

2¼” width of fabric strip (for tying)

pencils

tack spray (optional)

Pro Tip: Insul-Bright is a specially engineered fabric that reflects hot and cold energy back to itself. This material must be used with at least one layer of wadding to absorb condensation.

instructions

1. Make your quilt block

Start by making four four-patch blocks according to the instructions here.

Place the first pair of four patches right sides together, then sew down one side with a ¼ inch seam allowance and join the two blocks in a row. Press the seam allowance to one side.

Repeat with the second pair of four patch blocks.

Place the rows on top of each other, right sides together. (Align them to maintain the checkerboard pattern.) Sew the rows together using a ¼ inch seam allowance and press the seam open.

Pro tip: You can use any 8-inch quilt block for the top of this pot holder – you don’t have to stick to the checkerboard pattern we used. Experiment with a snowball block, a pinwheel, a log cabin design, or a friendship star.

2. Align your block

Trim your finished block to round the edges.

3. Layer the quilt sandwich

Layer your pieces in the following order: potholder back (wrong side up), Insul-Bright (there is no right or wrong side with this fabric), cotton batting, and potholder top (right side up).

4. Save the layers

Insert staples through all layers to secure potholder for quilting. Tack spray can also be used to attach the cotton batting to the top of the potholder.

5. Stitch it

Use your home sewing machine with a walking foot to machine topstitch the potholder. Straight line quilting and trench stitch are both great options for this project.

Trim your pot holder so the edges are even and trim off any excess batting and backing layers.

Pro tip: After quilting, you may want to baste all edges ⅛ inch from the edge – this will hold the layers together for easier bonding.

6. Make the binding

To make your binding, start at one end of your strip of fabric and fold the strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press until you reach the end of the strip.

7. Tie the pot holder

Tie your potholder with prepared tying from step 6 or with purchased ready-made tying. Tie the potholder just like you would tie a quilt.

And you’re done! Use these oven mitts when preparing your next weeknight meal, or gift them to that foodie on your holiday list.

Enter the characters you see below

Sorry, we just need to make sure you’re not a robot. For best results please make sure your browser accepts cookies.

” ” Stack towel squares between fabric squares; Machine-stitch the layers together.

To get the last mile out of old towels and washcloths, turn them into oven mitts. Your salvage will stand up better than most store bought ones.

Tool:

tape measure

ruler

pencil

scissors

sewing machine

8 inch plate

Straight pins

Materials:

Worn towels or washcloths

Cotton scraps

thread

Pre-folded bias tape

Time: 1/2 to 1 hour per potholder

advertisement

Measure and cut squares from the good bits of worn towels – 8 inches is a good size, but make them larger if you prefer. Use at least two squares for each pot holder; If the towels are very thin, use three or more squares. Use worn washcloths as they are. For purely utilitarian potholders, leave the towel layers uncovered; for the fancier ones, cut out squares of the same size from scraps of fabric or new pieces of cotton fabric.

Stack two or more towel squares on top of each other for each potholder; Place one square of cotton fabric at the top and one at the bottom right sides together. Stitch the stacked layers together on a sewing machine, making parallel rows of straight stitches about 1 inch apart across the entire square. Rotate the sewn square 90 degrees and backstitch at right angles to the first lines of stitching, creating an all-around quilted square pattern. Or, if desired, sew diagonally to create quilted diamond shapes, or use any free-form pattern.

When the square is fully stitched, trim the edges as needed; Use a ruler and pencil to make them square. Or, if you want a round potholder, center an 8-inch panel on the quilted square and trace it around; Carefully cut off the marked corners.

Finish the edges of the pot holder with pre-folded bias tape. Starting at a corner, place the slightly wider side of the bias binding along the bottom edge of the potholder and bring the narrower side up over the raw edges of the fabric. Carefully miter or loosen the ribbon at the corners of the potholder around curves; Make sure you don’t stretch the tape around corners or curves. Pin or staple the tape along the way. Leave 21/2 inches of extra tape at the end of the potholder.

Starting at the starting corner of the bias binding, carefully sew over the folded bias binding, as close to the inside edge as possible. If your sewing machine has a zigzag stitch, use it. At the end of the potholder, use the extra 21/2 inch bias binding to make a loop for hanging the holder. Continue your stitching with a straight stitch along the extra band; Then double back the ribbon and sew its end to the edge of the potholder using back and forth stitches. The loop should be at the corner of the pot holder.

For more information on do-it-yourself kitchen improvement projects, check out the links below:

A potholder is a piece of cloth (often quilted) or silicone used to cover the hand when holding hot kitchen utensils such as pots and pans. They are often made of polyester and/or cotton. Crochet pot holders can be made from cotton yarn as a craft project/folk art.

A potholder only protects one hand at a time. Two potholders are needed to lift a pan with two hot handles with both hands. To hold a hot device, the potholder is folded around it and grasped by hand. Typically, there is a rubber surface on one side to grip and the other side has a fabric side to absorb heat.

When potholders are made of fabric, they typically have an inner layer of a material that provides thermal insulation sandwiched between more colorful or decorative outer layers. The most common type commercially available today is in the shape of a square, 5 inches (13 cm) to 10 inches (25 cm) on a side, with slightly rounded corners and a fabric loop on one of the corners for hanging.

Cultural uses[edit]

During the potholder’s lifetime, it was also used as a representative symbol of various cultural movements. During the United States Abolitionist Movement, they were displayed by women who wanted to show their support for the abolitionist cause.[1] These provided a way for women to casually identify as part of the abolitionist movement without overtly expressing it. Also, it is sometimes used by Cajun cultures as part of their Mardi Gras masks.[2] During the internment of Japanese Americans during World War II, the interred Japanese made several pot holders from different colored fabrics to reflect their own culture.[3] This was done to break up the monotony, as the colorful nature of the craft was in stark contrast to the generally bland environment of the camps.

Style development[edit]

The earliest records of potholders in the United States date from the early 1900s, when potholders were made of lace, crocheted, and embroidered. The use of lace disappeared concurrently with the popularization of geometric patterns on potholders, which lasted until the late 1970s. At the same time, appliqué methods became popular around the 1960s and remained the most popular method until the 1970s, along with quilting.[4]

materials [edit]

The textile pot holder did not exist in art or writing until about the 19th century. Evidence in art points to hooks being used to carry hot-handled pots in ancient Greece, but it was not until the anti-slavery bazaars of the mid-19th century that the first home-made potholders were clearly made. These crafts were illustrated with various designs and advertised with the phrase “Any holder except a slave holder” given the opportunity.[5] The popularity of potholders has coincided with the proliferation of magazines. Patterns for “teapot holders” that closely resemble potholders were given in these magazines. Insulation was limited in early models from their inception. As a standard household item, potholders have been widely associated with DIY, and crocheting has long been the leading method in this area , followed by knitting and patchwork.[6] Needlework patterns in the 1950s were often impractical and designed with holes and intricate spacing that would burn the user or quickly wear out the holder In the 1970s, quilting and appliqué patterns for potholders g gained popularity , which continues to the present.[6]

Security [edit]

Oven mitts are a form of personal protective equipment, or PPE.[7] They are used in kitchen environments to protect kitchen staff from heat-related injuries. However, one problem with pot holders in commercial kitchens is that they are not hygienic. According to Food Service Technology 2.2, research has shown that oven mitts are one of the single culprits for cross-contamination in the kitchen.[7] This occurs when someone is working with raw foods in the kitchen and then uses an oven mitt without proper hygiene. When the next person uses the pot holder, they are exposed to any germs previously left behind. Another problem with potholders is that the materials they are made of are often not waterproof, so they cannot be washed.[8] This poses a problem as kitchens are full of accidental spills and there is no quick clean-up solution when a potholder becomes soiled. If an oven mitt gets wet in any way, there is a risk of steam burns. Because of these risks, potholders have been banned from commercial kitchens in New Zealand, but there is no evidence they will be doing so in the United States anytime soon.[7]

wool[edit]

Oven mitts must withstand temperatures in excess of 400 degrees Fahrenheit to protect skin from hot dishes and render a potentially harmful task harmless. A common fabric for potholders is wool because it can withstand very hot temperatures.[9]

What makes wool a unique product is that it is essentially flame retardant. The combination of sulfur and nitrogen results in a mixture of materials that provides a flame retardant product.[10] Wool is used for many types of heat protection because it has a high ignition temperature. This is defined as the temperature at which an object will produce a flame. Wool can be heated to over 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit before this substance ignites.[11] Even if the fabric comes into contact with flames, it will not spread the flame.[12] This offers an even greater quality of protection with the wool’s low ignition temperature and inability for flames to spread through the fibre. When wool is heated to a certain degree, it begins to “char” on the outside. This can provide a protective outer layer on the outer fabric. If the char on the outside of the fabric matches the original properties of the wool, it can result in a safer version of the product.[13] When the heat is applied directly to the fabric, the “char” forms a semi-liquid state that can be wiped off the fabric and provides no indication of thermal contact.

Home production[edit]

In the early days of “do it yourself” and home crafts, projects such as quilting, sewing, knitting, and crocheting were used for both work and play. These activities are commonly used methods of making potholders. Crafts of this type were often associated with women and children as a tradition passed from mother to daughter since before the 18th century. In the mid-eighteenth century it was considered a woman’s duty to decorate and fill her home with these various types of household crafts.[14] Pot holders emerged as one of these crafts in the late 19th century and were usually marketed alongside kettles and teapots.[4]

Patterns for making potholders at home were first seen in the United States in brochures and magazines, including magazines like Workbasket, whose primary target audience was the middle and working class. This appearance of needlework patterns in magazines began around 1880 and remained prominent into the 1930s. During the Great Depression, designs for potholders were published by the household press and by yarn and thread manufacturers. During this period, potholders blossomed into the useful, diverse art form recognized by craft workers today.[4]

Common ways of making potholders at home include quilting, knitting, and crocheting.[15][16][17] These techniques use different mediums such as yarn or scraps of fabric to create pot holders in all different colors and patterns.[15][16] Many “DIY” tutorials teach how to make a simple square potholder, but there are also many that teach a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs, including small houses or flowers.[17][16] These homemade kitchen items are often considered good for home decoration or gift giving.[16]

In advertising[edit]

In the early 20th century, potholders were regularly featured in United States advertisements. They were featured in magazine and newspaper advertisements for kitchen utensils, and typically provided protection between a woman’s hands and her pot or pan of freshly cooked food. The advertised device was often shown as the background. A typical advertisement would show a young, smiling woman using oven mitts to get her freshly baked bread out of the oven.[18] Although the advertisement is usually for an oven or hob, the pot holders are presented as a mainstay in a trendy young woman’s kitchen.

See also[edit]

I was strolling through the store the other day and saw some super cute round pot holders and thought they were super cute so I decided to make some. Today I’m going to show you how to sew potholders in just 8 easy steps.

Supplies for sewing potholders

You don’t need much to make these. I used up some leftovers I had from other projects, but if you need to buy new you only need 1/4 yard of the fabric, 1/4 yard of the batting, and 1/4 yard of the insulated batting. I ended up with about 1 1/2 yards of bias tape.

How to sew potholders

Step 1: Cut circles out of your fabrics. I used a kid size plate that is exactly 8 inches tall to trace my circles and then cut them out. You will need 2 circles of your outer fabric, 2 circles of batting and 1 circle of insulated batting. For my outer fabric I actually chose two different fabrics, one for each side of the pot holder.

Step 2: Next, make a pile of your fabrics. First, lay one of your outer circles of fabric with the right side of the fabric facing down. Then add a cotton ball, the insulated cotton ball and another cotton ball on top. Then place your other outer circle of fabric on top of all, right side up.

Step 3: Pin or clip the layers together. Then sew lines or some kind of design to stitch them together. I decided to cheat a bit and use the lines in the chevron design on one side as a guide.

Step 4: Unfold your bias binding. Pin or clip the raw edge of the bias binding to the edge of your circle. Pin it all the way around and stop right where you started – don’t overlap.

Step 5: Sew all the way around your circle and sew in the crease closest to the edge. Remember to tap a little every time you start and stop.

Step 6: Fold your bias binding over to the other side so it covers the edge of your circle. Turn the whole thing around. Pin or clip the bias binding. Cut the end of your bias binding, but leave about 6 inches from the circle. We’re going to use this to make a loop for you to hang the potholder on.

Step 7: Sew along the bottom edge of the bias binding to secure it. Go all the way around the circle and then to the end of your bias tape length.

Step 8: Fold the end of your bias binding over twice and sew in place. Then fold the bias binding in half to form a loop and sew to attach to the pot holder.

And you’re done! Now you know how to sew a potholder. Well, at least one way to sew a pot holder. There are many different ways to do this and I love that.

More potholder tutorials

If you love to sew and quilt like me, you’ll end up with a bunch of scraps! Now I know what you can do with all that scraps, make some potholders! Potholders are a great way to use up leftover fabric and cotton swabs. It’s a great weekend project. They also make great housewarming gifts or hostess gifts.

I like to make my oven mitts with a layer of Insula-Bright (insulated cotton to make them heat resistant) and a layer of cotton (for extra protection and to absorb moisture). When making potholders, you should make sure that all of your materials (thread, fabric, and batting) are 100% cotton. If you use polyester fabric and it catches fire, the fabric would melt. When cotton fabric catches fire, it simply smolders.

Supplies are needed:

1 – 8 1/2 x 8 1/2 inch cotton fabric quilt block

(Strip block shown below: 4 – 2 1/2 x 9 inch strips)

1 – 10 x 10 inch piece of cotton batting

1 – 10 x 10 inch piece of Insula-bright (insulated cotton)

1 – 10 x 10 inch piece of cotton fabric

1 – 3 inches x fabric width (usually 42 inches)

(if you prefer a thinner binding, use a 2 1/2 inch strip)

First you need to make your 8 1/2 x 8 1/2 inch quilt block (unfinished size). So you can choose your favorite 8 inch quilt block or use this super easy strip block.

strip block

Take your 4 – 2 1/2 x 9 inch strips. Sew the fabric strips right sides together to form a block. Pinch your seams to one side. Then cut your block to measure 8 1/2 x 8 1/2 inches.

Now it’s time to make our potholder!

We’re going to make our mini quilt sandwich now. First, lay out your 10″ x 10″ backing fabric wrong side up.

Then lay your 10″ x 10″ piece of Insula-Bright face down

Then lay your 10 x 10 inch piece of cotton batting down

Then place your 8 1/2 x 8 1/2 inch quilt block on top. stuck.

Quilt all four layers together. I like to quilt 1/4 inch from the seams

Crop to 8 1/2 x 8 1/2 inches. Sometimes it gets a little smaller, about 8 1/4 x 8 1/4 inches, due to quilting the puffy layers.

Now take your 3 inch x wide strip of fabric (about 42 inches). I prefer a large tie on my potholder. If you want a thinner binding, you can use a 2 1/2 inch wide strip. Fold about 1 inch at one end. Press the wrong sides together. Then cut the fabric in half lengthways, place the wrong sides on top of each other and press flat.

Match the raw sides of the binding to the raw sides of the front of the potholder. Take the binding end with the folded edge and place it in the middle of one of the pages. Begin sewing your binding at the front of the potholder about 1 inch inside, using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. When you are 3/8 inch from the corner, stop backstitch. If your block has dots, you may want to use a 1/4 inch seam allowance so you don’t clip your dots.

Fold your binding up and line it up with the side of your pot holder. Then fold them down to align with the side of your quilt.

Start sewing 3/8 inch from the edge. When you reach the starting point, cut to length, tuck end of binding under beginning of binding, sew.

Fold the binding over and hand sew or machine sew onto the back. I prefer to hand sew my binding just because I can’t machine sew. Also, it’s nice to be able to sew something by hand when I’m watching shows.

Yay, you’ve got a cute new potholder for yourself or a nice present for a friend! I would love to see the pot holder you make! Use this hashtag on Instagram: #hccpotholder

Have fun sewing!!

Andrew

Share this: Twitter

Facebook

Pinterest