Holed Concrete Fence Posts? All Answers

Quick-set concrete is ideal for installing fence posts because it doesn’t need to be mixed in a bucket or wheelbarrow. When you’re done digging your post holes, add about three to four inches of gravel into the soil and compact it with a post or a 2×4. Then line up your post and use a spirit level to make sure it’s perfectly vertical. Secure your post with two clamps and pour your dry concrete into the hole, surrounding the post to about three inches below the lip. Slowly fill the hole with about a gallon of water, enough so that you’ve saturated all of the concrete.

What is a mortised fence post?

A mortise is a rectangular cavity in a material that normally forms a joint. In fencing, wooden ridge rails are fitted through the insertion slot. Feather edge boards are then nailed to the ridge rail and overlap to create a continuous barrier.

Also known as a barrier fence, this is an attractive fencing method that offers complete privacy.

Whatever your reason for considering drilling holes in your fence posts, it’s important to know how the posts will hold up to this project. So can you drill into concrete fence posts?

It is possible to drill into a concrete fence post. With the right tools and the right approach, it’s easier than you might think. Before you start drilling, there are a few things you need to consider such as: B. the type of drills you need and the specifications of your posts.

The durability of concrete can make this project a bit tedious, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be done. Below is a little guide with information you need to know about drilling concrete fence posts.

before you start

One of the advantages of concrete fence posts is that they are quite durable and will last much longer than wood or vinyl fence posts. So before you start drilling, there are a few things you should consider and do.

First, decide how deep you want to drill and either measure it on the post or some way on your tool. This is how you keep track of your work. Putting tape or masking tape on your drill is a good way to mark where to stop drilling. If your drill comes with a stop bar feature, you can also use that to keep track.

Make sure, even after you’ve marked where to drill, that you double check just to be sure. Measure twice, drill/cut once.

Here are some things you need to protect yourself while you work: eye protection, gloves, outdoor clothing appropriate to the weather, hearing protection (e.g. even mouth and nose protection (like a mask) if necessary to keep dust, that gets into the concrete while drilling, does not get into your body.

type of drill

The type of drill you use is critical to the success of your project. There are always many drills and bits to choose from, so which ones are best for concrete?

Standard rotary drills can work well, but only for very small projects; If you are working with older concrete or doing more than just a few holes you may want to upgrade to a better performing bit as the standard bits don’t work well enough at this point.

Hammers, SDS (Slotted Drive System) and rotary hammers work best for this project. All are well suited for projects involving masonry. Use a hammer drill if it’s not too big a job without too many holes. An SDS drill is best for heavy-duty use. Use a hammer drill if the job is major, like drilling multiple or very deep holes.

If you decide to rent a drill press for this job, be sure to read the owner’s manual before using it to understand and become familiar with the tool. Some of the best brands of drills, whether you rent them or not, are DeWalt, Black and Decker, Milwaukee, and Bosch.

When using your drills, be sure to use one of the appropriate sizes. High-quality masonry drill bits are best for drilling in concrete.

Drill your holes

Once you have the right equipment and drill bit, it’s time to start drilling your holes!

Start drilling your pilot hole. Start with a quick start-up to ensure you have the correct alignment. Make sure you have a firm grip on the drill; If it has an extra spot on the side with an assist grip, hold that for extra support. Also make sure you have a secure footing and drill slowly at first.

After that, use moderate pressure and speed when drilling and don’t be too hard or rough. Too much pressure can break the bit or ruin the concrete surface. Drilling your holes too fast or on a setting that is too high is not a wise choice.

Stop from time to time to blow out the dust in the hole and make sure the hole looks good and clear. Do not use force when drilling if you encounter obstacles or additional resistance. Instead, take out the drill and just try to break through the barrier by gently tapping it with a masonry nail. Don’t knock and hit or you could break the concrete or do something to the hole you were working on. Once you break through the barrier, you can continue working with the drill.

rods

All concrete posts should include bars to support their structure and shape. Concrete fence posts are no different. Usually there are 4 in a fence post. Normally they should be found in the corners, so if you drill towards the center you should be fine.

Hitting any of the bars or rebar in one of your fence posts with the drill can compromise the integrity of the post. Be careful if you have to drill where one of the bars should be or if you think you might approach one in the concrete.

final remark

Just some final tips and warnings to help you with your project:

A helpful tip is that if you need to screw something into your drill hole, use a hex head screw as they work best in concrete.

Another thing to watch out for when drilling is air pockets in the concrete, as these can be an unexpected part of the project.

Fence posts can snap under the wrong pressure, so take it slow as you work and know it will be worth the patience!

Thankfully, it doesn’t take long to drill holes, so this project shouldn’t take too long. Just remember to be careful and you should be done in no time!

I need to replace a fence. The posts appear to have completely rotted in the concrete holes. Being naive I think I can just dig out the rotten lump from the concrete lump which will leave me a nice hole to stuff a new post in.

However, my past experience with DIY tells me there will be some terrible problems that I hadn’t even thought of, such as: B. the holes will be too small.

has anyone successfully reused post holes? Or could I put some spikes in the holes with more concrete?

How to replace a fence post without removing concrete

Replacing a fence post is no easy task, especially when it’s embedded in concrete. A typical fence post can sit in 2 – 4 80 pound bags of concrete, which is approximately 160 – 320 pounds. And it doesn’t include the weight of the post or the dirt stuck to the concrete. Then there is the depth to consider. Typically, a fence post is buried about 1/3 of its height above the ground. That means a 6 foot high fence post would be about 2 feet below ground. You’ll have to dig deep to loosen the concrete enough to remove it. It’s not hard work if you have a bobcat, but it’s very hard to do by hand. A better option may be to replace the fence post without removing concrete.

The best way to replace a fence post without removing the concrete foundation is to pry it out. You can do this with a long lever and pivot or a jack. In any case, first nail some wood to the post to pry against it, and then get to work. Pry until the post disengages from the concrete and comes all the way out. Then clean the hole and put your new post.

Just removing the fence post is not an easy task, but it is easier than the alternative. And leaving the concrete footing where it is can save you time and money when setting the new post. If the concrete is removed when you replace the fence post, you will have to pour new concrete later. This can be a lot of work if you have multiple posts to correct.

Below we will discuss how to replace a fence post without removing the concrete, as well as situations where the post is partially rotted, cracked, or completely rotted. And what if you want to remove the concrete too?

Take apart the fence

If you want to replace a fence post without removing concrete, you must first dismantle the fence sections that are attached to the post. Only remove the fence sections directly attached to the post. This generally includes the fence panel and possibly a top and bottom transom. The exact parts that need to be removed will depend on the type and style of your fence.

Be sure to keep all parts in a safe place while you disassemble the fence. On some fences, the crossbars are attached with edge clamps and screws. You will need all the parts when you later rebuild the fence. Also notice how the fence went together.

I find it helpful to take photos when I’m disassembling something that I plan to put back together later. It’s easier than using labels and shows me exactly what the thing looked like at every step.

Get help if the fence panels are heavy.

Generally, the only tool you will need is a multi-tipped screwdriver. Most fences are assembled with brackets and screws. However, if you have an old-fashioned style wooden fence where transoms go through the post, you might want to bring a hammer or mallet.

When the fence panels are nailed to the posts, it’s a tougher job than when they’re bolted together. Get a good nail puller with a cat’s claw and gently remove any nails. You should also purchase new nails or screws when reassembling the fence.

Remove the post

To replace a fence post without removing concrete, you must pry the post out.

How you remove the fence post depends a lot on the condition of the post and why you are removing it. Basically, this falls into two main categories, damaged or rotten posts and fence posts that are still in good condition. Removal is basically the same, except for a damaged or rotten post, you will cut the post before removing it.

The most common reasons for replacing a fence post is a cracked or rotten post or because you need to make the post taller. We will first discuss the basic removal and then how to remove lazy posts.

Removing a concrete fence post requires leverage and a good pry bar or jack. Using a jack or two is definitely the easier option.

Begin by screwing a strong piece or two of wood firmly to the side of the fence post. The height depends on how you pry the wood out of the concrete. Make sure that wood is really strong because that’s what you’re going to fight against.

If your concrete is of poor quality, you will need to do a little digging before you start prying out the post. Dig down and expose the concrete. This will prevent debris from falling into the hole after the post is removed. It also allows you to put silicone on the new post, which can prevent rot.

jack

The first and best method I like to use is two jack stands. With a jack, the post can be pushed at an angle, making it difficult to lift out of the concrete. Using two jacks allows you to take turns, which helps lift the post straight up.

First, I attach two pieces of wood to either side of the post. I attach them about 2-3 inches above the bushing. These are the pieces you will later attach the bushings to, so make sure the connection is strong.

Next I put the bushings. Make sure the jacks are resting on wood or a concrete block so they don’t dig into the dirt when jacked up.

Once the jacks are in place, raise them so that they are both snug against the wood you just attached to the side of the post.

Finally, start jacking up about 1/2 inch at a time. Alternate bushings so the wood pulls straight up.

If you don’t have two jacks, just one will do. It is best to try to lift the post straight up out of the concrete and not at an angle. If the jack is pushing the post at an angle, it will be more difficult to lift it out of the concrete.

If you don’t have a jack handy, you can use a lever instead. It’s harder but still works great.

Lever & Pivot

If you want to replace a fence post without removing concrete but don’t have jack stands, you’ll need to use a lever. This is the same basic idea as using a jack, only you do the work by hand.

First you need to create a fulcrum to place your lever on. This can be built out of almost anything, but I like to use a thick log. Prying against a round surface makes it a little easier.

Slide a strong beam, about eight to ten feet long, onto the pivot and under the piece of wood you screwed into the post. The longer the wood, the easier your job will be. Make sure the lever is made of very strong wood or steel. I like to use at least a 4×4. You don’t want the lever to flex a lot when you push it.

Begin to apply pressure to the bar. If you are not strong enough to push the post out yourself, you can use counterweights. The more weight you add, the easier it gets.

Standing on the beam is an easy way to add weight to the beam, but I don’t recommend it. It can be dangerous, especially if the post gives way.

Try stacking bags of fertilizer, soil, or concrete on top of the joists. They are heavy and easy to hold onto the beam because they are somewhat malleable.

Add the weight slowly, applying even pressure. Keep an eye on the post and concrete as they start to move.

If the concrete moves with the post, you may not be able to separate them. Depending on how much concrete was used and how well it adheres to the post, this method may do a good job of pulling the concrete out. It is not always possible to remove a concrete post.

Removing a Rotten Post

If the post is rotten or damaged, the method you use to remove it may be slightly different.

First cut or break off the main part of the post at the damage. I generally like to cut just below the damaged area, but if it’s too low you’ll have to cut above it. Make sure you leave some good wood above ground to fight back against. Cutting the entire post too low will make it more difficult to remove later because you won’t have enough room for a jack or spirit level.

Sometimes an entire post can be rotted to the concrete, making prying impossible. You need some strong good wood to fight back against. In this case, use a demo bar and hammer to chop and pry out any wood stuck in the concrete. Pound the pole into the rotten wood, then pull pieces out with a smaller pry bar. A claw bar can really help here. Keep hitting and splitting the wood, pulling out pieces as you go.

You can also use a long drill. Screw it into the wood and pull pieces out as you work. Screwing into the wood softens and in some cases chews it up. This makes removal much easier.

Another method I use to drive in a really long fat screw. Like a 3/4″ structural bolt with a really strong thread. Once the bolt is in place, it gives me something to fight back against.

Replacing a rotten post without removing concrete is more difficult than simply prying it out, but with enough work you will be able to do it.

Clean the concrete post hole

Once the post is removed, clean the hole of any debris. Pieces of wood or dirt may remain. This is especially true if the old post was rotten.

Take your pole and break off any remaining pieces and pull them out of the hole. Small pieces of wood often stick to the concrete. You want a nice clean hole to slide the new post into, so make sure you get all the small parts. The cleaner the hole, the easier the installation of the new post will be.

Many people use fire to burn debris out of the hole, but I don’t like the method. Chopping and pulling out chunks has always worked better for me.

If you want to try the fire, have a hose handy just in case.

Use some kindling to light the fire in the hole. Let it burn for as long as you need to get all the smaller chunks out. Use a vacuum to suck out any remaining charcoal.

Take your time and make the hole as clean as possible. To replace a fence post without removing concrete, you must reuse the concrete. If the holes aren’t clean, you won’t be able to slide the new post in, which defeats the purpose.

Install a new fence post

Make sure you use the same size pin as the one you removed. This ensures the best fit. Keep in mind that wood isn’t always exactly the same size. This is called the nominal size. For example, you can order a 2×10 beam, but the actual size could be anywhere from 9 1/2 – 9 3/4 inches. Be sure to measure the inside diameter of the hole and purchase a new post with the appropriate outside diameter. Or just a little smaller.

If your new post is a little too big to fit in the concrete hole, you’ll need to trim it a bit. Take some measurements and find out how much you need to alter the post.

If the post is just a little too big, try sanding it down. Use a coarse grit sandpaper. But if the post is 1/16 or more too big, you should trim the post. Use a circular and shave what you need. If you don’t have power tools where you work, try a hand planer with a sharp blade and shave the wood.

Check that your new post is level and at the correct height once it is fully in the hole.

Measure the hole depth before purchasing the new post to ensure your finished height is correct. The new post must be deep enough to provide adequate strength but high enough to support the fence panels.

As a rule of thumb, at least a third of the fence height should be laid underground. For example, a six foot high fence needs to be buried at least 2 feet, which means you need an 8 foot post.

Once the post is set, silicone around the edges where the wood meets the concrete. Silicone prevents water from slipping into the cracks, which can prevent future rot.

refill

After the old post is successfully removed without removing the concrete, the hole is cleaned, and the new post is in place, you can proceed with backfilling.

In cases where the top of the concrete is below ground level, you will need to dig a little to expose it before removing the post. Now it’s time to fill in and level the ground. In most cases, you can just push the dirt you dig up back into the hole. Level the ground and press down a little.

If the concrete foundation is above level, you probably won’t need to do any backfill work.

If for some reason you need more soil, I recommend using the same kind that you dug up. Use sandy fill when working in sandy soil. But if your soil has grass, then use filler soil, which is good for growing grass.

Before backfilling, check that your post is level and at the correct height. Also, be sure to silicone the cracks where the post meets the concrete. It’s a small step that can prevent future rot.

Install the fence panel

Once the post is in place and your backfill is complete, it’s time to install the fence panel.

Install in reverse order of disassembly. Because of this, it’s important to keep all the screws and parts in a safe place and take photos while you disassemble the fence.

Removing the fence post and concrete

In some cases, it’s just not worth removing or replacing a fence post without removing concrete. And for some posts it’s not even possible. If the installer used rebar or bolts along with the post, there is no way to lift the post out of the concrete.

In those cases where you don’t want to or can’t replace the fence post without also removing the concrete, you’ll need to replace everything. Below we explain how.

take down the fence

Carefully disassemble the fence panel that connects to the post you will be removing.

As before, watch the fence being put back together, take photos as you go, and keep all the pieces.

Remove the post and concrete

There are several ways to remove a fence post and concrete foundation.

The first is to dig up the entire foundation and then remove it from the hole. This is very difficult to do by hand. I only recommend it if you have the help of a machine. But if you want to dig it out by hand, then here’s a great tip to save you time and work. Just dig out two sides and then push and pull out the post. Removing dirt from two sides leaves enough room to move the concrete into the cavity and remove it. You don’t have to dig on all four sides.

I recommend using a jack or spirit level here as well.

Start by digging deep around the concrete about an inch or two.

Wrap a steel chain tightly around the exposed concrete. Make sure there is enough chain left to attach to the jack.

Attach the chain to the jack and crank until the fence post and concrete come out. You can replace the jack with a lever if you prefer.

The key to removing the concrete with a chain and jack is a very strong connection. The chain needs to be super tight around the concrete. If the binding is not tight, the chain will pull off. Jacking it up at a slight angle helps keep the chain firmly attached to the concrete. Jacking it up straight makes it easier to pull the chain off.

Set the new post

After the old post is removed, you can replace it with a new one.

Removing the concrete foundation leaves a fairly large hole. But you should double check the measurements. Don’t just assume the hole is the right size for your new post. Remember that about 1/3 of the post height above ground should be below ground. For example, a 6 foot tall fence post should be buried about 2 feet below ground. If the hole isn’t deep enough, you’ll need to dig it until it’s the right depth.

Also make sure the hole is wide enough for the amount of concrete you plan to pour. If you plan to use 3 bags of concrete per post, make sure the hole is the right size to accommodate this. If not, you need to make the hole wider.

It’s also a good idea to add a few inches of gravel to the bottom of the hole. This provides some drainage and a solid base for the concrete.

Insert the new post and make sure it is level. I use a couple of 2x4s temporarily nailed to the post to keep it level while I pour my concrete.

Slowly pour the concrete, bag by bag, checking that the post stays level.

A new product on the market is expanding step foam. I prefer concrete, but foam works really well too. And it’s easier to work with. Concrete is heavy, but foam is very light. And it builds up much faster. I usually wait a full day before installing the fence panel, but with foam you can do it the same day. Although they make quick setting concrete that sets in about an hour.

Once the concrete is dry, siliconize the edges where the concrete meets the post, then fill as needed.

There is no need to use silicone when working with foam. The foam provides a watertight seal against the wood.

Install the fence panel

With your fence post in place, it’s time to install the panel.

Install the new panel in the reverse order that you took it apart. This is where images come into play. You should be able to use the same screws and connecting brackets as before.

Summary: How to replace a fence post without removing concrete

Replacing a fence post is no easy task, especially when it’s embedded in concrete. A typical fence post can sit in 2 – 4 80 pound bags of concrete, which is approximately 160 – 320 pounds. And it doesn’t include the weight of the post or the dirt stuck to the concrete. Then there is the depth to consider. Typically, a fence post is buried about 1/3 of its height above the ground. That means a 6 foot high fence post would be about 2 feet below ground. You’ll have to dig deep to loosen the concrete enough to remove it. It’s not hard work if you have a bobcat, but it’s very hard to do by hand. A better option may be to replace the fence post without removing concrete.

The best way to replace a fence post without removing the concrete foundation is to pry it out. You can do this with a long lever and pivot or a jack. In any case, first nail some wood to the post to pry against it, and then get to work. Pry until the post disengages from the concrete and comes all the way out. Then clean the hole and put your new post.

Just removing the fence post is not an easy task, but it is easier than the alternative. And leaving the concrete footing where it is can save you time and money when installing the new post. If the concrete is removed when you replace the fence post, you will have to pour new concrete later. This can be a lot of work when you have multiple posts to correct.

If you have any questions or comments on how to remove a fence post without replacing concrete, you can always email us.

project guide

Always use proper safety precautions when working with cement-based products, including wearing eye protection, nitrile gloves and a mask.

Step 1

Dig the post hole so that the diameter of the hole is three times the width of the post (i.e. the hole for a 4″ wood post should be about 12″ wide). The depth of the hole should be 1/3-1/2 the height of the post from the ground (i.e. a 6 foot high fence would require a hole depth of at least 2 feet).

step 2

Insert about 6 inches of QUIKRETE all-purpose gravel into the bottom of the hole. Then compact and level the gravel with a post or 2×4.

step 3

Place the post in the hole and attach 2×4 brackets to the adjacent sides of the post.

step 4

Use a spirit level to position the post perfectly vertical.

step 5

Fill the hole with quick set concrete to 3 to 4 inches below ground level.

step 6

Pour about one gallon of water per 50 lb bag into the hole and allow the water to saturate the concrete mix.

NOTE: The mixture will harden in 20 to 40 minutes

step 7

Wait about 4 hours before beginning construction of your fence or placing heavy weight on your post.

Shopping List

50 lb QUIKRETE Rapid Concrete

50 lb QUIKRETE all-purpose gravel

Posts made of pressure-treated wood or posts made of galvanized metal

Even

5 gallon bucket

measuring bucket

post hole dredger

gloves

safety goggles

(Optional)

Creating a strong foundation for your fence starts with anchoring the posts.

How deep should a fence post be?

For an average fence post that is about 6 to 8 feet tall, be prepared to dig a post hole about 2 feet deep. To install a fence post you will need a shovel or post excavator, a 6 foot level, soil and gravel or crushed stone. You will also need concrete for goal posts.

How to install a fence post in 5 steps

Start digging the post holes with a shovel or post hole digger. Place holes between 6 and 8 feet on center and dig 24 to 30 inches deep for most picket or mesh fences. Set posts on a 6″ base of ¾” crushed stone to promote drainage. Then fill the posts with the soil from the holes, minus the topsoil, and bag it every 6 inches. In sandy soils, mix in gravel to make it firmer. In clay soil that doesn’t drain well, pack only gravel around posts.

Related How to Replace a Rotted Fence Post

Should fence posts be concreted in?

Pro2Pro Tip: If the fence is long and you need to create a lot of holes, consider renting a drill or hiring a landscaper who has one.

You only need to pour a concrete foundation for posts that support a gate, stand freestanding at the end of the fence, or if rocks prevent you from digging deep enough, one-third the length of the post.

Concrete is expensive—each post requires two or three $5 bags—and slow, requiring post bracing until the concrete sets.

Related How to Replace a Decrepit Fence Post

needed tools

Arris rails are a length of softwood treated wood that is cut diagonally from a square section to create a triangular shape. These are then attached to posts to form a framework to which feathered boards can be nailed.

Closet fencing continues to be a popular way to build a solid perimeter fence that will stand the test of time. Closeboard fencing, sometimes referred to as closeboard fencing, shiplap, or featherboard, consists of overlapping vertical planks of wood nailed to horizontal rails that run between fence posts.

You can buy prefabricated closeboard fence panels or lap fence panels (where the boards run horizontally rather than vertically), but a true closeboard fence is constructed on site from individual components.

What are the advantages of cabinet fences compared to fence panels?

It may seem easier and faster to use prefab fence panels, but cabinet fences have several advantages over panels:

Strength and Durability – Due to its individually fastened components and pressure treated boards, the cabinet fence provides a highly durable, rigid structure

– Due to its individually fastened components and pressure treated boards, closeboard fencing offers a highly durable, rigid structure. Maintenance – Any wear and tear can be repaired by replacing individual components, boards or rails rather than a complete fence panel

– Any wear and tear can be repaired by replacing individual components, boards or rails instead of a complete fence panel. Versatility – Closeboard is ideal for building a fence on sloping or uneven ground as gravel boards and rails can be attached at an angle and then the individual boards can follow that plane. The distance between fence posts is also not limited to the width of a fence panel

– closeboard is ideal for building a fence on sloping or uneven ground, as gravel boards and rails can be attached at an angle and the individual boards can then follow this level. Fence post spacing is also not limited to the width of a fence panel Security – as the name suggests, Closeboard is a fully solid fence with no gaps, important for borders that require extra security or privacy

What are the key components for closet fences?

Feather Edge Boards – These feathered fence boards, which are thinner on one side to allow them to overlap, form the main structure of the fence

Arris Rails – Triangular cross-section rails that run horizontally between fence posts. Available with a tapered end to fit a notched fence post or without to attach to a notched post. When the boards are attached to the rail, they sit between the fence posts.

Cant Rail – An alternative to cant rail, a rectangular rail with an angled top (to allow rainwater drainage) that is nailed to the face of the post, allowing a continuous row of boards to sit in front of the post

Center stumps – short pieces of wood mounted under the bottom rail to increase rigidity

Fence Posts and Gravel Boards – Closet fences can be constructed from wood, concrete, or steel fence posts and gravel boards, but the type of post will vary depending on the rail used.

If you are using edge rails, you will need notched or mortised posts to accommodate the rails. If you are using concrete or steel posts, you will need mortised posts regardless of the rails used

Counter Rails and End Rails – These pieces of wood can be attached to the top of a cabinet fence to provide a neat, decorative finish and to drain rainwater

Cleats – Small pieces of wood that attach to the base of the fence post to allow the gravel sheet to be secured between the posts. Alternatively, when used with concrete posts, galvanized metal brackets that slot into the base of the post and provide a surface for attaching the gravel slab

How to install closet fences

Closet fences are a simple construction of posts, rails, gravel boards and spring edge boards. Posts should be at least 100mm x 100mm cross section and set in concrete at a depth of approximately 600mm (for a 1800mm or 6 foot fence). The distance between the centers of the posts should ideally not exceed 3m (10ft).

Rails are then fastened horizontally either between or across the face of the posts; typically two rails are required on fences 1.2 m (4 ft) high and below, with three rails used on higher perimeters.

The boards are then individually nailed to the front of the rails, with the thicker side of the board overlapping the thinner side of the next board.

Read our article here to learn more about how to build a closet fence.

Should I use edge rails or edge rails?

The choice really depends on what finish you want for the fence, e.g. B. Boards placed between the posts or continuous boards in front of the posts. Generally, a hip rail is believed to be stronger because it fits into the fence post, although a hip rail with a tapered end may eventually fail at the thinner ends.

An advantage of saddle rails is that you don’t have to use notched or mortised posts as the saddle rails are simply nailed to the front of the post. However, some say this makes roof rails inherently weaker.

So essentially it’s really a matter of personal choice, or what components are readily available.

Ask the fence experts

For more advice on your fencing project, don’t hesitate to speak to our fencing experts at your local AVS fencing and landscaping supply store. Our ranges of cabinet fence components are all available for either click and collect from your local AVS store or for home delivery within our AVS store delivery area.

description

Tenoned timber posts are used in conjunction with hip rails in the spring edge fencing system.

We stock 2.4m x 100mm x 100mm intermediate, corner and end posts.

These posts have three slots along the length that edge rails fit into.

Brown pressure-treated.

DELIVERY: To ensure our wooden posts reach you in top condition we regret that we are unable to deliver posts further than 30 miles from the Kebur Landscape Center in Farnborough. If you are unsure, we will let you know when you place an online order, or you can contact us to check.

Delivery & Returns

Click and collect

We’ll email you to confirm that the order is ready for pickup, or email you a date when your order can be picked up. Please do not attempt to collect it until you have received this email. The collection address is Welch Fencing Ltd, 22 Chain House Lane, Whitestake, Preston, PR4 4LE.

NW Welch home delivery

We will email you the delivery date, delivery will be made using either one of our small pick-up vehicles or one of our 32t crane trucks (4 x axle, 10ft2 wide and 37ft long). It depends on the order with which vehicle we deliver. If you are having trouble accessing it, please let us know when you place your order.

Nationwide Welch home delivery

We will email you a two day delivery time slot, delivery will be made on one of our 32 tonne (4 x axle, 10ft2 wide and 37ft long) crane trucks. If you are having trouble accessing it, please let us know when you place your order.

express delivery

We will either call or email you to arrange delivery. This method of delivery would be using external couriers and not our own fleet. There is a chance they will need someone to physically assist the driver but if that is the case we would call you to confirm a suitable delivery date.