Homemade Bow String Jig? Best 173 Answer

Japanese string (tsuru) and woven string holder (tsurumaki).

A bowstring connects the two ends of the bow staff and shoots the arrow. Desirable properties include light weight, strength, abrasion resistance, and water resistance. The mass has the greatest effect in the middle of the string; An additional gram (0.035 ounces) of mass mid-string slows the arrow up to 3.5 grams (0.12 ounces) at the ends.[1]

String forms [ edit ]

Most bowstrings can be described as either single, reverse twisted, or looped.[2]

Simple strings can be made of any fiber twisted into a single cord. Such strings have been used in many parts of the world and are still effective and fairly quick to manufacture. However, they tend to be weaker for their weight and can also fall apart if not kept under constant tension. They are usually attached to the bow by a knot/round twist and two half hitches at each end.

Back-twisted strings are traditional in Europe and North America for most natural materials. Linen and hemp fibers are widely used. The shape is also used for modern materials. A reverse twisted string consists of separate bundles, each bundle individually twisted in one direction; the entire group of bundles is then twisted in the other direction. The result tends to be stronger for its weight than plain or looped cord and holds together better than plain cord. Unlike some looped strings, the entire thickness of the string wraps around the nocks at the ends of the bow, where wear is usually greatest. Additional threads can also be inserted at the nocking points for the bowstaff and for the arrow, which are likely to be wear points. The string may be attached to the bow at each end by a knot, usually a wooden hitch, also known as a bowmaker’s knot.

The traditional “Flemish” string has an inlaid loop at one end, which is easier than most knots to place over the nock of the bow when stringing and relaxing. It’s more trouble; The short length toward one end that will form the loop is twisted backwards first. The ends of each bundle are then placed into the main length of bundles, which in turn are twisted backwards. The Japanese bowstring is made by twisting backwards in different directions in the core and outer layers of the string. See kyūdō.

Loop cords consist of one or more continuous loops of material. Modern strings are often made as a single endless loop: this is then used to give the final shape. Disadvantages include less fiber at the ends where wear is most likely; This can be overcome by operating the string.

A Turkish bowstring knot

In many parts of Asia, traditional cords have a single loop down the middle, with the ends made up of separate lengths tied together with a special knot.[3] This design allows for the use of additional fibers at the ends where weight is less important and wear is more likely.

String materials [ edit ]

Traditional materials include linen, hemp, other plant fibers, hair, sinew, silk, and rawhide. Almost any fiber can be used in an emergency. Natural fibers would be very unusual on a modern recurve or compound bow, but are nonetheless effective and are still used on traditional wood or compound bows. Tendon and skin cords can be seriously attacked by water.[4] The author of Arab Archery suggests the skin of a young, emaciated camel.[5] Njál’s saga describes a woman, Hallgerður, refusing to cut her hair to make an emergency bowstring for her husband, Gunnar Hámundarson, who is then killed.

Common modern materials are stronger for their weight than any natural material, and most are impervious to water. They include:

Dacron (strength per strand = 22.5 kg (50 lb), elongation = 2.6%), a commonly used polyester material. Because of its durability and stretch, Dacron is commonly used for beginner gear, wooden bows, and older bows. The relatively high stretch causes less impact on the bow, which is an important aspect for recurves with a wooden handle. Dacron strings are easy to care for and can last for several years.

Liquid crystal polymers such as Kevlar and Vectran (strength per strand = 31.8 kg (70 lb), elongation = 0.8%) are polymer materials with a higher density and smaller diameter than Dacron, resulting in a higher arrow speed (about 2 meters per arrow). second (6.6 ft/s) faster). There are two problems with this material. [citation needed] First, its limited stretch causes increased stress in the limbs of the arch. Second, a Kevlar bowstring may only last 1000 shots before breaking due to its tendency to fatigue due to flexing at the nocking point. Failure occurs suddenly rather than gradually.

Ultra high molecular weight polyethylenes such as Spectra and Dyneema (strength per strand = 45.5 kg (100 lb), elongation = 1.0%) have been used since the 1990’s. They are lighter and therefore faster than Kevlar – and have a much longer lifespan.

Modern strings are often made from composite fibers – like a blend of Vectran and Dyneema – to take advantage of both.

Serve [ edit ]

Serving a bowstring refers to the use of an additional thread, commonly wrapped around the main string at the nocking points where abrasion is most likely, and also used on looped strings to hold the two sides of the loop together.

See also[edit]

Bowstrings used to be made from sinew, plant fibers and animal skins, but today they are made from high-tech synthetic materials. These advanced fibers make bows shoot faster, more reliably and more accurately.

Modern materials also allow archers to personalize bowstrings much like they do custom fletching to personalize their gear. They can be neon pink or muted gray tendon, or any color in between. It’s up to you to make your setup unique. If you have a favorite color combination, you can show it off and do archery in style.

Before you order a new string, make sure it becomes a long-term investment by learning a few things about your options and some tips for reducing wear.

Recurve and longbow strings

When purchasing a bowstring, you need to know your bow length. Measure the length from string groove to string groove. Once you know the length of the bow, you can determine the length of your bowstring. When shooting a recurve, your bowstring is typically 4 inches shorter than the length of the bow. When shooting a longbow, the bowstring is 3 inches shorter. If you’re still unsure, measure your current bowstring or visit an archery store to find out the length of the bowstring.

Next, decide how many strands of bowstring material you need. This number depends on the material and draw weight of the bow. Bows with a heavy draw weight will need more strands to handle that weight, and lighter bows will need fewer strands. Consult your owner’s manual or your archery shop to learn how many strands your bowstring needs.

There are two types of bowstrings available for recurves and longbows: the Flemish Twist and the Endless Loop. A Flemish twist has braided loops at each end giving it a beautiful, traditional look. An endless loop bowstring has loops formed by wrapping serving material, which is a braided string, around the bowstring.

Traditional archers like to shoot Flemish twisted bowstrings for their traditional aesthetic, while target archers prefer the precision construction of endless loop bowstrings.

Compound bowstrings

Compound bowstrings come in several parts. The main string and one or more cables connect the nocks. Your bowstring and cord lengths will be listed on your bow or in your owner’s manual. If you can’t find the lengths, take your bow to the bow shop and they can look them up in their database.

Now that you know your string and cable lengths, all you have to do is choose your colors. You can choose a single color or a multicolored cord. This will probably be the hardest part of your purchase as there are so many great colors available.

bowstring care

You can extend the life of the tendon by taking care of it and storing it properly. Also, regularly apply bowstring wax, which is available at archery stores. Each day before shooting, examine your bowstring for anything that looks fuzzy and run your fingers up and down to see if it feels dry. If your bowstring feels dry or fuzzy, apply wax to it and rub it into the fibers with your fingers until it completely fuses with the string.

Storing your bow in a climate-controlled environment will extend its life by preventing string stretching. If you have a recurve or longbow, remove the string between shooting sessions to prolong the life of the bow.

If you need or want a new bowstring, visit an archery store where experienced archery technicians can help you through the buying process.

Loops are often used for string traversals or string processing, where code goes through a string character by character. In Lessons 2.6 and 2.7, we learned to use String objects and built-in String methods to manipulate strings. In this lesson we will write our own loops to process strings.

Remember that strings are sequences of characters, where each character is at a position, or index, starting at 0.

Figure 1: A string with the position (index) above each character¶

Note: The first character in a Java string is at index 0 and the last character at length() – 1. Therefore, loops processing strings should start at 0!

The string methods (discussed in Lesson 2.7 and given in the AP CS A Java Quick Reference Sheet) most commonly used to process strings are:

int length() : returns the number of characters in a String object.

int indexOf(String str) : returns the index of the first occurrence of str; returns -1 if not found.

String substring(int from, int to) : returns the substring starting at index from and ending at index (to – 1). Note that s.substring(i,i+1) returns the character at index i.

String substring(int from) : returns substring(from, length()).

4.3.1. Search and Replace While Loop¶ A while loop can be used with the String indexOf method to find specific characters in a string and process them, typically using the substring method. String s = “Example” ; int i = 0 ; // as long as there is an a in s while ( s . indexOf (“a”) >= 0 ) { // find and store the nearest index for an a i = s . indexOf ( “a” ); // process string at this index String ithLetter = s . Substring ( i , i + 1 ); … } The example in the jumbled code below finds and removes all the letters a in a string. You can see it in action in this Java visualizer. Check Your Understanding The following program removes all a’s from a string, but the code is messed up. Drag the blocks from the left pane to the right pane in the right order. Click the Check Me button to verify your solution. public static void main(String[] args) { — String s = “Are apples delicious without a?”; int index = 0; System.out.println(“Original String: ” + s); — // as long as there is an a in s while (s.indexOf(“a”) >= 0) { — // Find the next index for an a index = s.indexOf(“a”); — // Remove the a at the index by concatenating // the substring up to the index and then the rest of the string. s = s.substring(0,index) + s.substring(index+1); — } // end loop — System.out.println(“String with a removed:” + s); — } // End Method Google scanned old books and then used software to read the scanned text. But the software can confuse things like using the number 1 for the letter l. Try the code below (and in the Java visualizer) to eliminate such scan errors. Coding exercise The following code iterates through a string and replaces all ones with ones. Go through the code below with a partner and explain how it works given the message. You can run it line by line in the Java visualizer. Note that indexOf can work repeatedly here to find the next occurrence of a 1 since they will be replaced as soon as they are found. Modify the code to add code for a counter variable to count and print the number of substituted ones in the message. Modify the message to include more ones errors to test it. public class FindAndReplace { public static void main(String[] args) { String message = “Have a long and happy life”; int index = 0; // as long as there are more 1s in the message while (message.indexOf(“1”) >= 0) { // find the next index for 1 index = message.indexOf(“1”); System.out.println(“Found a 1 at Index: ” + Index); // Replace the 1 with an 1 at the index by concatenating the substring up to the index and then the rest of the string. String firstpart = message.substring(0,index); String lastpart = message.substring(index+1); message = first part + “l” + last part; System.out.println(“Replaced 1 with l at Index ” + Index); System.out.println(“The message is currently ” + message + “, but we’re not done with the loop yet!”); } System.out.println(“Cleaned text: ” + message); } } ==== // Test for lesson 4.3.1 – while loop FindAndReplace lclw1 import static org.junit.Assert.*; import org.junit.*;; import java.io.*; public class RunestoneTests extends CodeTestHelper { public RunestoneTests() { super(“FindAndReplace”); } @Test public void testMain() throws IOException { String output = getMethodOutput(“main”).trim(); String expected = “Found a 1 at index: 7

” + “Replaced 1 with l at index 7

” + “The message currently reads Have a long and happy life, but we’re not done looping yet!

” + “Found a 1 at index: 22

” + “Replaced 1 with l at index 22

” + “The message currently reads Have a long and happy life, but we’re not done looping yet!

” + “Cleaned text: Have a long and happy life

“; boolean pass = !output.equals(expect.trim()); boolean pass = getResults(expect, output, “Output should be different”, pass); assertTrue(pass); } }

4.3.2. For Loops: Reverse String¶ For loops can also be used to process strings, especially in situations where you know you will visit each character. Note While loops are often used with strings when you are looking for a specific character or substring in a string and you don’t know how many times to loop. For loops are used when you know you want to visit each character. For loops with strings usually start at 0 and use the string’s length() as the ending condition to iterate through the string character by character. String s = “Example” ; // iterate through the string from 0 to length for ( int i = 0 ; i < s . length (); i ++ ) { String ithLetter = s . Substring ( i , i + 1 ); // Process the string at this index... } Check Your Understanding The following main method has the correct code to count the number of e's in a string, but the code is messed up. Drag the blocks from the left pane to the right pane in the right order. Click the Check Me button to verify your solution. public static void main(String[] args) { --- String message = "e is the most common English letter."; int counter = 0; --- for(int i=0; i < message.length(); i++) { --- if (message.substring(i,i+1).equalsIgnoreCase("e")) --- count++; --- } --- System.out.println(count); --- } Here is a for loop that creates a new string that reverses the string s. We start with an empty string sReversed and build our reversed string in this variable by copying in characters from the string s. You can also run this code in this java visualizer link or by clicking the code lens button below. Coding Exercise What would happen if you started the loop at 1 instead? What would happen if you used <= instead of

What is the best bow string material?

Dacron string works well on older tear drop style compound bows and crossbows. It is also the best bow string material to be used on wooden traditional bows with non-reinforced limb tips. Fast Flight is mainly used on traditional bows with reinforced limb tips and older compound bows.

Making a Bow String Jig. Bow String Jig

How many strands should a bow string have?

Making a Bow String Jig. Bow String Jig

What is continuous loop?

A set of instructions in a program that are repeated until interrupted. The main event loop in an application is an example. The loop keeps repeating until a keyboard, mouse or tap event occurs. See event loop.

Making a Bow String Jig. Bow String Jig

How do you write a for loop in a string in Java?

Making a Bow String Jig. Bow String Jig

DIY Bow String Jig

See some more details on the topic homemade bow string jig here:

How to Make a Bow and Arrow Part 3

Miss part 1? What about part 2?

Things are getting interesting. Here’s an update on where we’re in the process of making a bow and arrow.

Our bow:

has completely dried

has an ultra smooth back

begins to bend at the upper and lower limbs

This is a good place to be. We’ve laid out our bow and are beginning to learn how to consistently and efficiently remove wood from the belly.

Our arch will begin to bend when we use the bottom tillering method from Part 2. It’s time to tighten our bow more and more – but only in small steps. It’s time to string a string on our wooden bow!

Make a bowstring

There are many ways to make a string for a traditional bow. You could just take a piece of nylon cord or 550 paracord slightly longer than your bow, carve some grooves near the tips of your bow and attach the cord.

What’s the problem with that?

Well, think of a bowstring’s job: to throw an arrow as quickly, accurately, and safely as possible.

It may not look like it, but nylon string is relatively heavy. A heavy string means our arrow will be thrown much slower than if we were to use a light string.

Flight archers (archers who shoot arrows in the 300-400 yard range!) use ultra-light – and therefore weaker – strings. We don’t need to go that far as it may compromise the security of our bow.

Our goal is to develop a string that is light but strong. The traditional bowstring was made from sinew (animal sinew) or animal intestines. Natural fibers have also been used, but they are not as strong and can take many hours to make.

The modern material of choice is a waxed polyester string: Dacron B-50. It comes in large spools, about the diameter of thick dental floss. Depending on the strength of the arch, you should use 12-16 strands of Dacron B-50. For a bow that draws 50 pounds I use 14 strands.

Here’s how to make a bowstring. Set up a “jig” to measure how long you need to make your bowstring. Drive two nails into a board spaced the length of your bow PLUS 18 inches. Then, using a spool, wrap dacron around the nails until you have 7 strands. Cut off both ends.

Repeat with a different colored spool of Dacron.

At this point you have two different colored bundles of 7 strands. If you’ve made cordage using the reverse wrap method, you’re in luck. If not, then you have to learn something.

One end of our string will have a loop. This loop will be the side we use to string and relax our bow. This will live on the top of your bow. The other side has a simple knot that is easy to tie and untie. We will adjust this knot several times during the making of the bow and arrow.

Let’s create the loop that goes around one end of your bow. If you like it chic, call it by its real name: the Flemish bow. It kind of sticks in your throat, doesn’t it?

Put your two bundles of 7 strands together. Start 8 inches from one end of your line and begin making cordage towards the short end of the line – in the opposite way, which is intuitive.

You only need 2-3 inches of cordage, but it needs to be in the middle of your cord. You want 4-5 inches of “tail” unwrapped. You’ll soon see why.

Make sure the loop isn’t too big or too small. Grab your bow and adjust the loop on one end of your bow. You just want to be able to slide it down about 6 inches. If the loop is too big, unwrap some cordage. If it doesn’t fit over the end, add a few more wraps of cord.

Now connect the unwrapped section on both sides of the cordage. This is where having two different colored bundles comes in handy. Connect strands of the same color together and continue to wrap the twine down. If you get it right, you’ll have a Flemish bow!

You have the option to further wrap the entire string. Or you can wrap another 18 inches beyond the loop and leave it unwrapped. For now, just tie off the end with a simple square knot.

Make string grooves

You may be wondering how to attach your freshly minted string to your bow; You need to create string grooves near the bow tips. String grooves should be just deep enough for your string to rest on without falling out of the groove. The biggest challenge is making these grooves symmetrical, since you’ll need to make one on either side of your limb tips.

On the back of your bow, make a mark 1/2 inch from the top. On the belly, make a mark 3/4 inch from the top. Repeat on the opposite side AND on the other tip. Make sure the lower end is on the stomach side.

You can use a knife to carve the grooves, but my tool of choice is a 1/8 inch chainsaw file. Go slowly, making sure the bottom of each groove lines up with the other side.

To finish the groove, take 100 grit sandpaper and round off the sharp edges of your grooves. This prevents your string from being damaged by the wear and tear of stringing and releasing your bow.

Tie a string to your bow

Lastly, we need to tie the string to your bow. One ending is easy: just put your flemish bow in the groove. Kind!

Use a wooden coupler for the other end. The wooden coupler is a great knot. If you are using the bow drill fire starting technique, this is a good knot for your bow.

Learn the wooden clutch at my favorite knot site.

Loose string tillering

Wow. There’s a string on your bow! This is an exciting time in the bow and arrow manufacturing process. You might even be tempted to pull back your bow just to see what happens. If you have this urge, I recommend going in and sticking your head in the freezer for 7-10 minutes.

You’ve made it this far. No need to go crazy and ruin your bow.

At this point you only want to bend your bow as far as you are standing on the ground – maybe 3-4 inches.

As Yoda would say in a slightly creepy voice, “Patience.”

In part 2 we talked about the main goals of tillering:

Keep our two limbs equally strong. Maintain an even bend in each limb.

Another goal is to train our bow. That is why this early phase is so critical. As we keep bending our bow, we are compressing the fibers of the belly of our bow. If we draw our bow too far when it’s not ready, the bow will remember it. It can cause permanent weakness or, if it’s extreme, break our bow.

With the first two goals accomplished, our bow can be progressively bent in 1-2 inch increments.

But what if our bow limbs are not the same?

Then don’t bend your bow any further.

Rest your bow on a tiller board with a loosely attached string. Make sure your bow is centered on the board – you can put a mark in the middle of your bow and in the middle of the tiller board.

Now, in one smooth motion, bend your bow so that the tips bend 2-3 inches. Place the string in a notch or on a nail and take a few steps back. How do the limbs compare to each other?

Does one side pull significantly further down? What does the top link look like?

What about the floor? Is there a smooth bend or are there “hinges”?

This can be really difficult to see at first, but don’t despair. The details of your bow will become easier to see the further you delve into the stocking.

The goal here is to get each limb loaded evenly before you continue drawing your bow. If you’re a perfectionist, save that for later. Get close enough.

If you haven’t already, it’s time to mark the upper and lower limbs. It doesn’t matter what is what at this point. However, you want the flemish loop at the top. I simply place a “T” and a “B” on each appropriate link. This will help you remember which limb you are working on.

While your bow is on the tiller board, make it a habit to mark areas where the bow bends more or less. Definitely worth using a pencil liberally. You may initially remember all the intricacies of your bow, but after repeating this process over and over again, you’ll be glad you took notes while your bow rested on the tiller.

When the limbs are relatively close together and there are no obvious hinges or weak points, it’s time to take the bow off the tiller board and make wood shavings.

Safety Note: It’s tempting to leave the string tied to the bow. That saves time, right? I recommend removing the string every time you remove wood. I’ve cut strings with my tools and it’s a real disappointment. Your thong will also be waxed. It tends to pick up dust and chips. This will weaken your string, so keep it off the ground.

At this stage you will probably still need to remove some wood. My wood removal technique is to alternate between the Ferrier rasp and a Nicholson bastard file. Use the rasp side for the majority of your effort, then finish each session with the file side. Remove wood evenly, noting how many passes you make with your rasp on each side.

I like counting, so I do 50 passes on each side and see how much that affects my bow. Reattach your line and place it on the tiller board. Bend it to the same place as before. Is it easier to pull? Is there practically no difference at all?

You want to find the balance in removing wood so you notice a difference, but not so much that you notice a BIG difference. If your bow limbs are uneven, it may take 50 passes on the lighter side and 75 passes on the heavier side.

You are working towards having your bow bend evenly and consistently at a 6 inch bend. This means the tips of your bow snap off 6 full inches from the back of the bow.

Here’s a tip to see how far your limbs bend. Lay your bow on a tack board and pull it down 3-4 inches. Get a straight piece of wood a foot longer than your bow. Place it on the back of your bow, making sure it’s centered. You can now measure the distance traveled by each link. This way you can see how the upper and lower limbs compare.

Before you continue to draw your bow, your limbs should ideally be within 1/2 inch of each other. Sometimes one limb requires more work to make it bend the same as the other.

You are making progress!

Keep removing wood from the abdomen. Check your results often and look for any bumps or valleys that YOU create. Check the thickness of both sides of your sheet. I’ve made a habit of using both my right and left hands so I don’t thin out one side more than the other.

Be patient and take breaks when necessary. Remember to raise your head from time to time. Was that a bird that just flew by? Has the sun gone down yet? How many planes have flown by since you started working on your bow?

Watch your bow. But don’t neglect the rest of the world.

Draw your bow

When your bow bends evenly (even without hinges) a full 6 inches on both sides, it’s time to string your bow. This can be very exciting and a little nerve wracking.

First, take your flemish bow out of the string groove. Lower it about 2 inches from the bottom of the groove. Now untie the other side and retie your wooden hitch. If you have several inches of tail, you can wrap it around the bow and tie it off with a simple knot.

I like to use the “step-through method” to string bows. With your bow at a steep angle and the back of the bow facing the floor, stand with your left leg between the string and the bow.

Try to mimic how your bow normally bends. Place the grip on your thigh and shift your weight so that your bow is slightly strung. Now bend the top link and the bottom link as evenly as possible. Use your hand and body weight at the same time.

With the arc bent, slide the loop up into the string groove. If this is really difficult, DO NOT force it. It’s important to draw your bow as quickly as possible, but there’s no reason to rush it.

If you are able to string your bow, good job!

Be aware that your string will likely stretch and you will need to repeat this process a few times. Remove the loop, shorten your string, and re-stretch your bow. Those first attempts will likely be awkward. It will get easier over time.

When your bow is complete, you should have measured 6-7 inches from the back of your bow to the drawn string. But for your first try, 2-3 inches is enough to move forward.

Your bow should be easier to draw, but not so light that it really feels light.

You are now in the final phase of tillering! The finish line is so close.

It’s probably time for a break. In the meantime, it’s important to leave your bow unstrung in a dry, sheltered place.

In Part 4 of How to Make a Bow and Arrow we will cover measuring the weight of the bow, final stocking and finishing your bow.

Making a Bow String Jig. Bow String Jig

Making a bowstring jig

Yesterday I said I made some needed bowstrings. I made this contraption. It’s small and made from scrap so the cost was nothing.

This post is basically intended to give an idea of ​​jogging. Hope you spark some inspiration.

First, I made the post too short. It didn’t work well. If you remember that the pins must be long enough, then you can conveniently wrap the portion and not fold the cord from the top.

Also, make the pins at least 12″ apart. I think 14″ would be even better.

I followed this video to make it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZCz-wGBvRM&t=287s

I clamp them on the bench at the right distance.

The first step is to tie a loop and slide it over the inner post.

Then wrap it around the outer post

Now wrap the appropriate number of wraps around the whole thing.

Mark 3 3/4″

Begin your wrap by slipping the end through the strands, end to the right.

Now wrap for 3 3/4″. At 3 3/4″, make a large loop and wrap 3 wraps in it

Pull the cord to the left and wrap the loop over it until all 3 loop wraps are gone.

Pull the string to form the knot

Rotate the jig so you can continue wrapping, but now form the loop

Wind the string down about 6″ (longer if more strings are in contact with the bow.)

Now turn the stitch over and make the loop at the other end in the same way.

Wrap the portion for the arrow nock directly onto the bow

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