Jet Ski Taking On Water? The 127 Detailed Answer

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What causes a jet ski to take on water?

Getting water in your jet ski can happen from a bad storm taking it away and damaging it. Or you could have forgotten to put the drain plugs in. Or even worse you could have flipped it so that you can get something out of the pump.

How does water get in hull of a jet ski?

Air Vents. Air vents on a jet ski are holes on the top deck designed to allow fresh air to flow into the hull. They are typically located high above water level around the seat, the neck of the handlebars, or on the front of the top deck. Water can get inside the hull through these vents if you ride on choppy waters.

How do you get water out of a jet ski engine?

Start the PWC engine and let it idle, then immediately start the flow of water through the hose. Follow your owner’s manual, instructing you to idle for 90 seconds to 3 minutes. Turn off the flow of water, then shut down the engine. Disconnect the water hose and replace the cap over the flush fitting.

How do you get water out of a jet ski hull?

7 Best Ways to Get the Water Out of a Jet Ski Hull
  1. Bailer System. Interestingly, one of the easiest ways to remove water from your jet ski is to ride it for a while. …
  2. Drain Plugs. …
  3. Bilge Pump. …
  4. Boat Bailer. …
  5. Shop Vac. …
  6. Towels. …
  7. Air Dry.

Why does water come out the back of a jet ski?

The motor works hard to suck water into the vent at the bottom of the machine, and propel it from the back. Some of that water is used to cool down the motor so the watercraft does not overheat. Once the water has completed its cooling duties, it is expelled out the back of the vehicle in a neat water plume.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

Why do jet skis splash water?

One of the most exciting summer activities is to ride a jet ski over the water surface. In order to appreciate the thrill these beautiful water machines have to offer, it helps to really understand how they work and why certain features are there. Not only is it good information, it is good safety practice to enjoy the fun of a watercraft.

A common question we get asked is why some jet skis have a narrow jet of water that shoots out the top and back. Have you ever wondered why that is? There are two practical reasons for this – apart from just looking really cool.

The first reason is to cool down the engine. The engine works hard to suck water into the vent at the bottom of the machine and propel it from the rear. Some of this water is used to cool the engine to keep the watercraft from overheating. Once the water has completed its cooling duties, it is ejected from the rear of the vehicle in a clean plume of water.

But why is it shooting up so high and in such an intriguing way? That’s reason #2: security. By throwing off a large, visible jet of water, your small personal watercraft is more visible to other jet skiers or boats from near and far. Just as many dune buggies come with an orange flag, jet skis use water to notify other water travelers of your whereabouts. It’s often the same water that cools the engine – so a jet ski kills two birds with one stone.

Woody’s Watersports offers personal watercraft rentals in Madeira Beach, Florida, with state-of-the-art equipment to ensure reliable and fun trips. If you want to make the most of your time in beautiful, sunny Florida, book a jet ski rental today by calling us at 727-391-0200.

Why do so many Sea-Doos sink?

Why Would a Sea-Doo Sink? The leading reason why many Sea-Doos sink is arguably missing drain plugs. These small plugs are located on the rear side of the hull. As their name implies, the drains are used for draining bilge water from the Sea-Doo.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

Like any other ship, Sea-Doos can sometimes sink. But the good news is that they only partially sink, thanks to a special flotation foam in their hull. Wondering what could cause a Sea-Doo to sink? The most common reasons are as follows:

Drain plugs are missing

Loose screws

Incorrectly installed accessories

hull damage

Problems with the carbon seal

If you want to know more about these problems and learn how to avoid them, this post is for you!

Let’s break down the details to see how you can keep your Sea-Doo from sinking!

Why would a Sea-Doo sink?

Drain plugs are missing

Arguably the main reason many Sea-Doos sink is the lack of drain plugs. These small plugs are located on the back of the fuselage. As the name suggests, the drains are used to drain bilge water from the Sea-Doo.

If you forget to replace the drain plug before your next trip, your Sea-Doo could easily sink as water enters the hull through these drain holes!

Loose screws

Let’s face it, Sea-Doos have a lot of parts below the waterline.

The pump, intake grille, reboarding step, flushing port and many other parts are bolted to the fuselage. And if those bolts loosen, there’s a chance of water entering the hull.

You should therefore check these screws after each repair!

Incorrectly installed accessories

Aftermarket modifications are common on Sea-Doos. But surprisingly, some of them require you to cut a new hole in the hull!

This means that improperly installed muffler kits, sponsons, intake grilles or even fish finders can cause leaks.

hull damage

Sea-Doos hulls can be damaged by an accident or even a swell. In this case, water can enter the hull through these cracks. While this is rare, it can happen at any time!

Damaged carbon seal

Along with missing drain plugs, carbon seal problems are another major cause of Sea-Doo sinking.

The carbon seal (also known as a carbon ring or carbon ring gasket) is an often overlooked key component of any Sea-Doo. This part is so important that we need to talk about it in more detail.

Let’s move on and see what exactly a carbon seal on a Sea-Doo is!

What is a carbon seal on a Sea-Doo?

Simply put, a Sea-Doo carbon ring is the seal around the driveshaft. The carbon ring, together with the backup ring and rubber boot, provide a watertight seal.

You may be wondering where the carbon ring is on a Sea-Doo.

If you take a look inside the engine bay you will see a metal rod coming out of the engine. This rod is the driveshaft that transmits power to the impeller.

Since the impeller is on the outside, the shaft must be routed through the hull. There is a hole in every Sea-Doo hull just in front of the pump for this purpose.

To prevent water from entering the engine compartment, engineers have developed a seal that fits around the driveshaft, the carbon ring seal.

How does the carbon ring seal work?

A Sea-Doo’s carbon ring seal works in a tricky way. In short, the rubber bellows in this system works like a spring. Not only does it wrap around the driveshaft, it forces the carbon ring seal to another ring, the backup ring. This part is a metal ring that is attached to the drive shaft. Since the carbon ring is pressed firmly against the surface of this ring, no water can penetrate into the hull.

You can see how a charcoal seal works (and how to replace it) in this video:

How can you tell if the carbon seal is bad?

It’s good to know that the carbon seal can wear out, which means it needs to be checked and replaced regularly. Despite its importance, the carbon seal is often overlooked, which is why many Sea-Doos end up sinking!

Why?

This is because regular wear or damage causes the two rings to no longer fit perfectly together, which can result in water leaks around the carbon seal or rubber boot.

Because of these risks, the manufacturer recommends inspecting the carbon ring regularly.

But how do you tell if a charcoal ring is bad? For your convenience, we’ve compiled the most common symptoms of Sea-Doo carbon seals:

After every trip you will find water in the bilge.

Cavitation in the pump.

There are pieces of carbon/powder around the seal.

You notice signs of wear on the carbon ring.

You can see water leaks between the rings, carbon ring and rubber boot.

How can you keep your Sea-Doo from sinking?

If you want to prevent your Sea-Doo from sinking, just follow these simple steps:

Replace the drain plugs before every ride.

Never run the Sea-Doo out of the water for more than 90 seconds as this can damage the carbon ring!

Avoid shaft jumps as this can result in a misaligned motor which will result in carbon ring damage.

Regularly check the carbon seal for damage.

Check the hull for cracks.

Avoid aftermarket modifications.

Conclusion – Can a Sea-Doo sink?

Although Sea-Doos can sink, they don’t quite dive to the bottom. This is thanks to a special flotation foam in their hull that helps them stay afloat even when they are completely full of water.

Why is my Sea-Doo filling up with water? – this is a question many Sea-Doo owners ask themselves. In short, the most common reasons a Sea-Doo fills up with water are as follows:

Drain plugs are missing

Loose screws

Incorrectly installed accessories

hull damage

Problems with the carbon seal

So it’s safe to say that most Sea-Doos sink due to owner negligence and improper maintenance!

Missing drain plugs or overlooked carbon seal maintenance are the main causes of Sea-Doos water leaks, but other malfunctions can cause similar symptoms.

As a final word, if you want to save your Sea-Doo from sinking, your best bet is to properly maintain it per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The maintenance schedule is clearly stated in the owner’s manual, and with good reason. Following these recommendations is key to keeping your Sea-Doo afloat!

references

How Does a Sea-Doo Carbon Ring Work? When Should it be Replaced?

Can a Jet Ski Sink? How to Keep Your Jet Ski from Sinking

https://watercraftjournal.com/debunking-myths-better-understanding-sea-doos-carbon-ring-seal/

Do jet skis have a drain plug?

Jet skis come with drain plugs so the water can be drained from the bilge once the craft has been brought out of the water. Sadly, owners sometimes forget to replace the plugs before launching their jet ski again. This allows water to get into the hull as soon as the jet ski is back in the water.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

Can a jet ski sink? This is something that many beginners worry about, and it’s totally understandable. The answer is surprising: yes and no! This means that jet skis can partially sink but still stay afloat. They are specially designed to float even when completely filled with water due to the buoyancy foam built into their hull. Even so, gallons of water entering the hull can cause significant damage, even if your jet ski doesn’t sink completely! But you don’t need to worry because jet skis rarely sink. And if it does, it is often due to inattentiveness, ignorance, poor maintenance or perhaps an accident. The bottom line is that these situations can be avoided if you are careful and pay attention to what you are doing. By reading this post and following all the basic rules, you can reduce the risk of your jet ski sinking. This post also explains what to do if you get into trouble, including returning to shore and what to do if water gets into your jet ski’s motor.

Can a jet ski sink? – Typical causes of jet ski sinking Missing drain plugs When a jet ski sinks, it is usually due to missing drain plugs. Jet skis are supplied with drain plugs to allow water to be drained from the bilge once the craft has been taken out of the water. Unfortunately, sometimes owners forget to replace the plugs before restarting their jet ski. This allows water to enter the hull once the jet ski is back in the water. Beginners often make this mistake because they forgot the pre-ride checklist and maybe didn’t even read their owner’s manual. Or when they go through the checklist, they might not pay attention to every little detail, causing them to miss that step. Additionally, most jet skis have two drain plugs, and it’s easy for owners to forget about this and end up only resetting one. After launching their jet ski, owners usually go back to park their car and pack up their belongings. When they come back, water seeps into the hull. In the best case, they notice it immediately. If the problem goes unnoticed, they’ll find out soon enough when they’re out on the water. It’s a much more serious problem now because your jet ski can easily capsize or start sinking! Because of these risks, you should follow these tips:

You may not need to remove the drain plugs. Depending on which model you own, you rarely need to remove the drain plugs. Even if you’ve been in fairly rough seas, as long as your cowl seals remain intact, very little water probably got into the bilge. Because of this, many owners never take their drain plugs out. You simply use a shop vacuum to suck the water out of the ride that is in the bilge.

Replace the drain plugs. Even if removing the drain plugs is your habit, why NOT put them back in? When you’re done with your post-ride routine and the bilge is completely dry, simply replace the plugs! Also, learn the difference between flush fittings and drain plugs as they serve completely different purposes. The black drain plugs are on the lowest part of your jet ski, while the gray flush ports are higher up.

Don’t forget to check the footwells and bilge. If your jet ski was left near the dock, check the footwells! If water collects in the footwells, your jet ski may begin to sink. If the engine makes a strange noise, you also need to check the bilge. If water enters the hull, the engine may sound different!

Consider installing a bilge pump. When it comes to the risk of your jet ski sinking, one of the best ways to avoid it is to have a bilge pump. If your jet ski doesn’t already have a bilge pump, we definitely recommend that you have one installed. Even if your jet ski already has a factory installed bilge pump, you may want to install a second one. Why? Because many factory-installed bilge pumps only work when the engine is running! A second pump that starts pumping automatically even when the engine is off could save your jet ski!

Look for a Damaged Hull or Parts As we discussed earlier, even a new PWC can have some water in the bilge right after a ride. This is perfectly normal. But you have to be careful because if you keep noticing the same amount of water over and over again, your hull may be leaking somewhere. Because of this risk, you must make it a habit to inspect the hull regularly. This can easily be done when cleaning your jet ski. Speaking of hull leaks, it’s not usually a big hole we’re talking about. These are more commonly caused by a rubber seal not working properly! You could also have a problem near the driveshaft as it runs through the hull. Problems can arise if the waterproof protection that surrounds the drive shaft is damaged (depending on the model). The problem could also be a broken water hose as intercoolers and open cooling systems are still seawater cooled. If you have a broken hose, water will run straight into the hull! Important tips to consider:

Check your jet ski regularly, including the hull. Also check the bilge thoroughly after each trip. If you see a lot of water, it doesn’t bode well. Have your jet ski checked before you take it out again!

Make sure you cool your jet ski. When your jet ski is out of the water, do not run the engine for more than 15-20 seconds. Even if you cool your jet ski with a garden hose, the waterproof protection that surrounds the driveshaft will not be cooled when it should! This is exactly why every manual says not to let the jet ski run for too long when it is not in the water. RPM should be kept low to avoid overheating.

There is never a reason to take out the buoyancy blocks (foam) that are in the hull. The newer jet ski models are designed to float even when filled with water. This is due to the flotation foam and should therefore never be removed.

Never leave your jet ski in the water overnight. At this point it would be most vulnerable to sinking. It’s fairly typical that an owner who leaves their jet ski in the water overnight comes back the next day to find it sunk. Every time you leave your jet ski in the water, someone needs to watch, even if it’s only for a short time!

Improper Maintenance If you don’t properly maintain your jet ski on a regular basis, you will run into problems, some of which can be very serious. Because of this, you must follow the recommendations in your owner’s manual for maintenance and winterization. At the same time, you need to know that no matter how careful you are about getting a professional workshop or dealer to do the job, mistakes can happen. The wrong parts could be installed, or if you have a missing or loose screw, a leak could occur. Important tips to consider:

If you know how to service/maintain your jet ski yourself and have the right tools, great! But if not, you’ll need to take it to your local dealer or professional service shop.

Check the bilge for leaks. It is very important that you inspect the bilge for leaks after you receive your jet ski back from a periodic service or repair. And for the same reason, be sure to check the bilge carefully after your first ride of the season too!

Think carefully before deciding to modify your jet ski or have performance parts installed. Failure to do so could void your warranty and could result in leaks.

Improperly driving and tipping over your jet ski in the water Despite what you’ve heard, even high-performance PWCs aren’t designed to jump waves. Wave jumping can damage motor mounts and/or other vital parts of your jet ski. This could result in water entering the hull and all sorts of other mechanical issues as well. Important tips to consider:

Don’t drive recklessly. But if you have an accident, your jet ski can tip over in the water. If this were to happen, you need to know what steps to take to turn your jet ski back. Otherwise the engine could suffer permanent damage!

Don’t jump over waves, especially big jumps. These are extremely dangerous and can damage your jet ski in a number of ways.

Improper Towing There can be a number of reasons why your jet ski may need to be towed by another jet ski or a boat. It could be out of gas, malfunctioning, or accidentally sucking a rope or debris out of the water. In all of these cases, your jet ski will need to be towed back to shore before you can resolve the issue. But you must be aware that improper towing can result in water being forced through the exhaust system and into the engine as well as the hull. Important tips to consider:

Know how to tow your jet ski. It is extremely important that you learn how to tow your jet ski behind a boat. This must be done properly to avoid damage!

Keep a long tow rope on board. It would be wise to have a longer rope on board than you need as a minimum safety accessory.

What to do if your jet ski starts sinking Even if you take all of the precautions outlined above, water can get into the hull of your jet ski. There is no need to panic. Depending on the water level in the hull, this can not be bad. We’ve put together a step-by-step guide on what to do if your jet ski sinks: Important steps to follow:

Stay calm. It is very important that you remain calm when you notice your jet ski starting to descend. At the same time, you must act quickly! All newer jet skis can’t fully sink, so don’t worry about that. The bad news is that the bow (nose) of your watercraft is the only part that can float above the water’s surface. The other parts of your jet ski, including the engine, will sink under the water!

Start the bilge pump immediately. The moment you notice a significant amount of water in the hull, you must immediately START the bilge pump (if equipped) and STOP the engine.

DO NOT restart the engine. Never restart the engine when it is submerged or when the water level is near it. If there is a lot of water in the hull, it is best to stop the engine immediately and tow your jet ski back to shore as soon as possible. While waiting for your tow, try to remove as much water as possible with a baler. DO NOT touch the motor as it is likely to be hot!

DO NOT attempt to ride back to shore. Don’t try to start your engine so you can drive back to shore if you have no idea why you’re sinking! If a leaking water hose is causing the problem, running the motor will only make your jet ski sink faster!

Have your jet ski towed back to shore. Your best option is to have your jet ski towed back to shore by a boat or another jet ski. If there is no one around to help, contact a professional towing service like SeaTow. Be careful when doing all of these steps. No need to panic and risk hurting yourself!

What to do if your jet ski has already sunk?

Drain all the water. Once back on land, place your jet ski on the trailer. Pull out the drain plugs to drain the water from the hull. Be patient as it will take some time for the water to drain completely.

DO NOT start the engine. After draining the hull, you may wonder if the engine is running well and be tempted to start it. Don’t try this! You still have no idea if water got into the engine or not! Attempting to start the engine while there is still water in the cylinders can cause hydrolocking which can completely destroy your engine. Whether there is water in the engine or not, you can check the oil at this point.

Remove the dipstick to check the oil. When water has soaked into the oil, it looks like a caramel-colored smoothie. The consistency will also be runny rather than oily and it may even drip off the dipstick. If the liquid dripping from the dipstick is caramel, light brown or brown, this is clearly a bad sign, so you need to act immediately.

Transport your jet ski to the dealer. If the oil tells you that water has entered your engine, you must take your jet ski to your dealer or professional service center immediately. Urgency is key because now things are rusting in your engine and it will soon become scrap. It’s even more urgent if your jet ski is submerged in salt water because it’s much more corrosive. Your engine can be saved in many cases, but you must act as soon as possible. The absolute worst thing you can do is leave your jet ski with water in the motor! Even if your oil looks fine and no water seems to have gotten into the engine, it is still very important that you DO NOT start the engine before taking it to a professional for a full inspection. If water has entered the hull, it can damage other things besides the engine. The dealer will also check the petrol as it is important to ensure that no water has gotten into the petrol tank. The electrical system also needs to be checked to ensure everything is working properly and has not been affected by the water. In these cases, it’s often best to replace the battery even if it seems fine. Just remember that if a significant amount of water enters the hull, you must take your jet ski to the dealer immediately!

Remove the soaked seats. Your seats become very heavy when they are soaked with water. The problem is that there is no good way to drain all the water from your seats. All you can do is remove them and stand them up to drain as much water as possible.

Call your insurance. Assuming your jet ski is insured, which it should be, see your insurance company to see what is covered in that situation. Insurance sometimes covers such a problem, but not always. Every situation is different so it all depends on how this happened and what you are covering under your policy.

Consider buying a new jet ski. It is not surprising that after their jet ski has sunk, some owners insist on having a new one. They are convinced that their old man will never fully recover from going into hiding, which is understandable. If all the parts and equipment on board were wet, then everything is likely to rust prematurely. It’s impossible to know what problems will arise, including mold growing in the seats, mechanical problems and who knows what else?

What happens if a jet ski flips over?

Act Quickly: If your jet ski flipped over, the most important thing is to turn the jet ski upright as quickly as possible. The more time a jet ski spends floating upside down, the higher the risk of water leaking into the hull or, in the worst case, the engine.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

When you ride your jet ski hard, accidents happen, including the jet ski flipping over.

And although in some cases the vehicle will roll right back up, others may remain upside down. It is important to know the correct steps to take if this occurs to avoid permanent damage to the jet ski’s engine!

At JetDrift we’ve been working to collect the best tips on how to avoid these problems, as well as a step-by-step guide on how to get your capsized jet ski properly rolling again! You can also learn how to easily get back on your jet ski after flipping it back over.

Do all jet skis have bilge pumps?

Despite its importance, the majority of jet skis still don’t come with a bilge pump. Although the newer models are typically equipped with a “bailer,” this feature is less efficient than an electric bilge pump. Not having a bilge pump carries many risks, as a little water leak can cause the jet ski to sink.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

We at JetDrift have put together everything you need to know in this post!

If you want to learn more about jet ski bilge pumps and bilge pumps, read on.

Despite their importance, most jet skis are still not equipped with a bilge pump. Although the newer models usually come with a ‘bailer’, this feature is less efficient than an electric bilge pump. The lack of a bilge pump poses many risks, as a small water leak can cause the jet ski to sink. For this reason, every owner should install an electric bilge pump on their jet ski!

Do jet skis have bilge pumps?

Unfortunately, the bilge pump is still not part of the standard equipment on jet skis. While certain Sea-Doos and Yamaha WaveRunners come equipped with automatic bilge pumps, most jet skis are still manufactured without this vital piece of equipment.

Instead of a regular bilge pump, jet skis are typically fitted with a special siphon system known as a “baler”.

What is a bailer on a jet ski?

A jet ski baler is a unique siphon system designed to remove bilge water. The bilge uses the suction of the jet pump (venture effect) to drain water from the bottom of the hull. When the impeller rotates, especially at higher speeds, it creates suction in the pump. There is also a water inlet in the hull which is connected to the pump connector with a hose.

The scoop works well – until you run into an emergency! Why?

Because this bilge siphon system is designed to remove the water that naturally accumulates in the bilge.

The biggest disadvantage of a jet ski creator is that it only works when the jet ski is in motion. Since it only relies on the jet pump vacuum, the pump cannot generate sufficient suction when your jet ski is stopped or traveling at a lower speed.

And in most cases, by the time you notice that a significant amount of water has entered the hull, it is usually too late to use the bilge system to remove it.

If your hull is filled with water, you definitely do not want to start the engine as this can lead to major engine damage. In these situations, a scoop system does not help.

Another disadvantage of the bailer system is its small capacity. Even if you can ride your jet ski, if a lot of water gets into the hull, the bailer is probably too inefficient to remove it.

Again, this feature is designed to suck out the “natural” bilge water that normally collects in the hull but is unable to remove large amounts of water. So if water is quickly entering the ski due to hull damage or a broken carbon seal, a factory drain won’t keep you afloat.

That’s why an electric bilge pump is a must on every jet ski!

How does a bilge pump work on a jet ski?

If a jet ski comes standard with an electric bilge pump, it is most likely an automatic bilge pump system. This factory jet ski bilge pump only works when the engine is running. The pump also has a “float switch” that turns the pump on when needed.

These automatic bilge pumps have the same problem as the bilge system; They require the engine to be running. If your hull is already full of water and you cannot start the engine, the factory bilge pump will not be able to remove the water!

For this reason, many owners install a secondary bilge pump on their jet skis.

Where is the bilge pump on a jet ski?

Factory jet ski bilge pumps are typically mounted in the rear of the bilge. Water collects in the rear of the hull while sailing, so bilge pumps are located near the pump and drive shaft. They are sometimes also connected to the footwell drain system.

Do jet skis have a drain plug?

Jet skis come with drain plugs so the water can be drained from the bilge once the craft has been brought out of the water. Sadly, owners sometimes forget to replace the plugs before launching their jet ski again. This allows water to get into the hull as soon as the jet ski is back in the water.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

Can a jet ski sink? This is something that many beginners worry about, and it’s totally understandable. The answer is surprising: yes and no! This means that jet skis can partially sink but still stay afloat. They are specially designed to float even when completely filled with water due to the buoyancy foam built into their hull. Even so, gallons of water entering the hull can cause significant damage, even if your jet ski doesn’t sink completely! But you don’t need to worry because jet skis rarely sink. And if it does, it is often due to inattentiveness, ignorance, poor maintenance or perhaps an accident. The bottom line is that these situations can be avoided if you are careful and pay attention to what you are doing. By reading this post and following all the basic rules, you can reduce the risk of your jet ski sinking. This post also explains what to do if you get into trouble, including returning to shore and what to do if water gets into your jet ski’s motor.

Can a jet ski sink? – Typical causes of jet ski sinking Missing drain plugs When a jet ski sinks, it is usually due to missing drain plugs. Jet skis are supplied with drain plugs to allow water to be drained from the bilge once the craft has been taken out of the water. Unfortunately, sometimes owners forget to replace the plugs before restarting their jet ski. This allows water to enter the hull once the jet ski is back in the water. Beginners often make this mistake because they forgot the pre-ride checklist and maybe didn’t even read their owner’s manual. Or when they go through the checklist, they might not pay attention to every little detail, causing them to miss that step. Additionally, most jet skis have two drain plugs, and it’s easy for owners to forget about this and end up only resetting one. After launching their jet ski, owners usually go back to park their car and pack up their belongings. When they come back, water seeps into the hull. In the best case, they notice it immediately. If the problem goes unnoticed, they’ll find out soon enough when they’re out on the water. It’s a much more serious problem now because your jet ski can easily capsize or start sinking! Because of these risks, you should follow these tips:

You may not need to remove the drain plugs. Depending on which model you own, you rarely need to remove the drain plugs. Even if you’ve been in fairly rough seas, as long as your cowl seals remain intact, very little water probably got into the bilge. Because of this, many owners never take their drain plugs out. You simply use a shop vacuum to suck the water out of the ride that is in the bilge.

Replace the drain plugs. Even if removing the drain plugs is your habit, why NOT put them back in? When you’re done with your post-ride routine and the bilge is completely dry, simply replace the plugs! Also, learn the difference between flush fittings and drain plugs as they serve completely different purposes. The black drain plugs are on the lowest part of your jet ski, while the gray flush ports are higher up.

Don’t forget to check the footwells and bilge. If your jet ski was left near the dock, check the footwells! If water collects in the footwells, your jet ski may begin to sink. If the engine makes a strange noise, you also need to check the bilge. If water enters the hull, the engine may sound different!

Consider installing a bilge pump. When it comes to the risk of your jet ski sinking, one of the best ways to avoid it is to have a bilge pump. If your jet ski doesn’t already have a bilge pump, we definitely recommend that you have one installed. Even if your jet ski already has a factory installed bilge pump, you may want to install a second one. Why? Because many factory-installed bilge pumps only work when the engine is running! A second pump that starts pumping automatically even when the engine is off could save your jet ski!

Look for a Damaged Hull or Parts As we discussed earlier, even a new PWC can have some water in the bilge right after a ride. This is perfectly normal. But you have to be careful because if you keep noticing the same amount of water over and over again, your hull may be leaking somewhere. Because of this risk, you must make it a habit to inspect the hull regularly. This can easily be done when cleaning your jet ski. Speaking of hull leaks, it’s not usually a big hole we’re talking about. These are more commonly caused by a rubber seal not working properly! You could also have a problem near the driveshaft as it runs through the hull. Problems can arise if the waterproof protection that surrounds the drive shaft is damaged (depending on the model). The problem could also be a broken water hose as intercoolers and open cooling systems are still seawater cooled. If you have a broken hose, water will run straight into the hull! Important tips to consider:

Check your jet ski regularly, including the hull. Also check the bilge thoroughly after each trip. If you see a lot of water, it doesn’t bode well. Have your jet ski checked before you take it out again!

Make sure you cool your jet ski. When your jet ski is out of the water, do not run the engine for more than 15-20 seconds. Even if you cool your jet ski with a garden hose, the waterproof protection that surrounds the driveshaft will not be cooled when it should! This is exactly why every manual says not to let the jet ski run for too long when it is not in the water. RPM should be kept low to avoid overheating.

There is never a reason to take out the buoyancy blocks (foam) that are in the hull. The newer jet ski models are designed to float even when filled with water. This is due to the flotation foam and should therefore never be removed.

Never leave your jet ski in the water overnight. At this point it would be most vulnerable to sinking. It’s fairly typical that an owner who leaves their jet ski in the water overnight comes back the next day to find it sunk. Every time you leave your jet ski in the water, someone needs to watch, even if it’s only for a short time!

Improper Maintenance If you don’t properly maintain your jet ski on a regular basis, you will run into problems, some of which can be very serious. Because of this, you must follow the recommendations in your owner’s manual for maintenance and winterization. At the same time, you need to know that no matter how careful you are about getting a professional workshop or dealer to do the job, mistakes can happen. The wrong parts could be installed, or if you have a missing or loose screw, a leak could occur. Important tips to consider:

If you know how to service/maintain your jet ski yourself and have the right tools, great! But if not, you’ll need to take it to your local dealer or professional service shop.

Check the bilge for leaks. It is very important that you inspect the bilge for leaks after you receive your jet ski back from a periodic service or repair. And for the same reason, be sure to check the bilge carefully after your first ride of the season too!

Think carefully before deciding to modify your jet ski or have performance parts installed. Failure to do so could void your warranty and could result in leaks.

Improperly driving and tipping over your jet ski in the water Despite what you’ve heard, even high-performance PWCs aren’t designed to jump waves. Wave jumping can damage motor mounts and/or other vital parts of your jet ski. This could result in water entering the hull and all sorts of other mechanical issues as well. Important tips to consider:

Don’t drive recklessly. But if you have an accident, your jet ski can tip over in the water. If this were to happen, you need to know what steps to take to turn your jet ski back. Otherwise the engine could suffer permanent damage!

Don’t jump over waves, especially big jumps. These are extremely dangerous and can damage your jet ski in a number of ways.

Improper Towing There can be a number of reasons why your jet ski may need to be towed by another jet ski or a boat. It could be out of gas, malfunctioning, or accidentally sucking a rope or debris out of the water. In all of these cases, your jet ski will need to be towed back to shore before you can resolve the issue. But you must be aware that improper towing can result in water being forced through the exhaust system and into the engine as well as the hull. Important tips to consider:

Know how to tow your jet ski. It is extremely important that you learn how to tow your jet ski behind a boat. This must be done properly to avoid damage!

Keep a long tow rope on board. It would be wise to have a longer rope on board than you need as a minimum safety accessory.

What to do if your jet ski starts sinking Even if you take all of the precautions outlined above, water can get into the hull of your jet ski. There is no need to panic. Depending on the water level in the hull, this can not be bad. We’ve put together a step-by-step guide on what to do if your jet ski sinks: Important steps to follow:

Stay calm. It is very important that you remain calm when you notice your jet ski starting to descend. At the same time, you must act quickly! All newer jet skis can’t fully sink, so don’t worry about that. The bad news is that the bow (nose) of your watercraft is the only part that can float above the water’s surface. The other parts of your jet ski, including the engine, will sink under the water!

Start the bilge pump immediately. The moment you notice a significant amount of water in the hull, you must immediately START the bilge pump (if equipped) and STOP the engine.

DO NOT restart the engine. Never restart the engine when it is submerged or when the water level is near it. If there is a lot of water in the hull, it is best to stop the engine immediately and tow your jet ski back to shore as soon as possible. While waiting for your tow, try to remove as much water as possible with a baler. DO NOT touch the motor as it is likely to be hot!

DO NOT attempt to ride back to shore. Don’t try to start your engine so you can drive back to shore if you have no idea why you’re sinking! If a leaking water hose is causing the problem, running the motor will only make your jet ski sink faster!

Have your jet ski towed back to shore. Your best option is to have your jet ski towed back to shore by a boat or another jet ski. If there is no one around to help, contact a professional towing service like SeaTow. Be careful when doing all of these steps. No need to panic and risk hurting yourself!

What to do if your jet ski has already sunk?

Drain all the water. Once back on land, place your jet ski on the trailer. Pull out the drain plugs to drain the water from the hull. Be patient as it will take some time for the water to drain completely.

DO NOT start the engine. After draining the hull, you may wonder if the engine is running well and be tempted to start it. Don’t try this! You still have no idea if water got into the engine or not! Attempting to start the engine while there is still water in the cylinders can cause hydrolocking which can completely destroy your engine. Whether there is water in the engine or not, you can check the oil at this point.

Remove the dipstick to check the oil. When water has soaked into the oil, it looks like a caramel-colored smoothie. The consistency will also be runny rather than oily and it may even drip off the dipstick. If the liquid dripping from the dipstick is caramel, light brown or brown, this is clearly a bad sign, so you need to act immediately.

Transport your jet ski to the dealer. If the oil tells you that water has entered your engine, you must take your jet ski to your dealer or professional service center immediately. Urgency is key because now things are rusting in your engine and it will soon become scrap. It’s even more urgent if your jet ski is submerged in salt water because it’s much more corrosive. Your engine can be saved in many cases, but you must act as soon as possible. The absolute worst thing you can do is leave your jet ski with water in the motor! Even if your oil looks fine and no water seems to have gotten into the engine, it is still very important that you DO NOT start the engine before taking it to a professional for a full inspection. If water has entered the hull, it can damage other things besides the engine. The dealer will also check the petrol as it is important to ensure that no water has gotten into the petrol tank. The electrical system also needs to be checked to ensure everything is working properly and has not been affected by the water. In these cases, it’s often best to replace the battery even if it seems fine. Just remember that if a significant amount of water enters the hull, you must take your jet ski to the dealer immediately!

Remove the soaked seats. Your seats become very heavy when they are soaked with water. The problem is that there is no good way to drain all the water from your seats. All you can do is remove them and stand them up to drain as much water as possible.

Call your insurance. Assuming your jet ski is insured, which it should be, see your insurance company to see what is covered in that situation. Insurance sometimes covers such a problem, but not always. Every situation is different so it all depends on how this happened and what you are covering under your policy.

Consider buying a new jet ski. It is not surprising that after their jet ski has sunk, some owners insist on having a new one. They are convinced that their old man will never fully recover from going into hiding, which is understandable. If all the parts and equipment on board were wet, then everything is likely to rust prematurely. It’s impossible to know what problems will arise, including mold growing in the seats, mechanical problems and who knows what else?

Do jet skis have a bilge pump?

While certain Sea-Doos and Yamaha WaveRunners come with automatic bilge pumps, most jet skis are still manufactured without this key piece of equipment. Instead of a regular bilge pump, jet skis are typically equipped with a special siphon system, known as a “bailer.”

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

We at JetDrift have put together everything you need to know in this post!

If you want to learn more about jet ski bilge pumps and bilge pumps, read on.

Despite their importance, most jet skis are still not equipped with a bilge pump. Although the newer models usually come with a ‘bailer’, this feature is less efficient than an electric bilge pump. The lack of a bilge pump poses many risks, as a small water leak can cause the jet ski to sink. For this reason, every owner should install an electric bilge pump on their jet ski!

Do jet skis have bilge pumps?

Unfortunately, the bilge pump is still not part of the standard equipment on jet skis. While certain Sea-Doos and Yamaha WaveRunners come equipped with automatic bilge pumps, most jet skis are still manufactured without this vital piece of equipment.

Instead of a regular bilge pump, jet skis are typically fitted with a special siphon system known as a “baler”.

What is a bailer on a jet ski?

A jet ski baler is a unique siphon system designed to remove bilge water. The bilge uses the suction of the jet pump (venture effect) to drain water from the bottom of the hull. When the impeller rotates, especially at higher speeds, it creates suction in the pump. There is also a water inlet in the hull which is connected to the pump connector with a hose.

The scoop works well – until you run into an emergency! Why?

Because this bilge siphon system is designed to remove the water that naturally accumulates in the bilge.

The biggest disadvantage of a jet ski creator is that it only works when the jet ski is in motion. Since it only relies on the jet pump vacuum, the pump cannot generate sufficient suction when your jet ski is stopped or traveling at a lower speed.

And in most cases, by the time you notice that a significant amount of water has entered the hull, it is usually too late to use the bilge system to remove it.

If your hull is filled with water, you definitely do not want to start the engine as this can lead to major engine damage. In these situations, a scoop system does not help.

Another disadvantage of the bailer system is its small capacity. Even if you can ride your jet ski, if a lot of water gets into the hull, the bailer is probably too inefficient to remove it.

Again, this feature is designed to suck out the “natural” bilge water that normally collects in the hull but is unable to remove large amounts of water. So if water is quickly entering the ski due to hull damage or a broken carbon seal, a factory drain won’t keep you afloat.

That’s why an electric bilge pump is a must on every jet ski!

How does a bilge pump work on a jet ski?

If a jet ski comes standard with an electric bilge pump, it is most likely an automatic bilge pump system. This factory jet ski bilge pump only works when the engine is running. The pump also has a “float switch” that turns the pump on when needed.

These automatic bilge pumps have the same problem as the bilge system; They require the engine to be running. If your hull is already full of water and you cannot start the engine, the factory bilge pump will not be able to remove the water!

For this reason, many owners install a secondary bilge pump on their jet skis.

Where is the bilge pump on a jet ski?

Factory jet ski bilge pumps are typically mounted in the rear of the bilge. Water collects in the rear of the hull while sailing, so bilge pumps are located near the pump and drive shaft. They are sometimes also connected to the footwell drain system.

What is Sea-Doo drown mode?

Drown Mode – What is Sea-Doo Drown Mode? Sea-Doo Drown Mode is cranking the engine over without starting it. This makes sense when you change the oil in your Sea-Doo as you can pump more oil into the bottom of the engine. Doing it this way, you can siphon more of the used oil.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

If you are interested in learning more about the basics of PWCs, you might also find this post useful as it defines the most basic terms and parts!

For your convenience, we’ve compiled the most important Sea-Doo-specific words and acronyms in this post.

If you own a Sea-Doo (or are considering owning one), you may want to familiarize yourself with these basic concepts to better understand your craft.

What do the terms iBR, iTC, iControl, CLSC, VTS mean? These terms can be confusing, especially for beginners.

Sea-Doos have their own language. They are complex vessels; therefore require special terminology!

Sea-Doo terms and acronyms

AES – Adjustable Ergonomic Steering: You can adjust the angle and width of the handlebars to suit your needs. This gives you a more ergonomic and comfortable sitting position.

ACE – Advanced Combustion Efficiency: ACE is a range of 4-stroke engines from Rotax specially developed for Sea-Doos.

Adjustable Floats: You can change the handling of your Sea-Doo by adjusting the floats. Most Sea-Doo sponsons offer 3 different settings: Race, Sporty or Freeride. The higher setting offers more playful rides, while a lower setting allows for more aggressive turns. Note that you must always have both floats set at the same height!

aS – Adjustable Suspension: Some pre-2018 Sea-Doo models were made with sponsors for a smoother riding experience. The term “aS” refers to the Sea-Doo’s manually adjustable suspension system.

Beep Codes: In the event of a malfunction, your Sea-Doo will alert you with beeps. Learn more about Sea-Doo Beep Codes.

CDI – Capacitor Discharge Ignition: Also known as CDI BOX. Simply put, a Sea-Doo’s CDI is the “brains” of the ignition system.

CLSC – Closed-Loop Cooling System: Just like cars or other vehicles, PWCs also have a cooling system to keep their engines cool. Sea-Doos feature a closed loop cooling system (known as CLSC) that is exclusive to the PWC industry.

Cruising Mode: A Sea-Doo’s cruising mode allows you to set a maximum speed. Turning on cruise mode limits your top speed but doesn’t maintain it. That means you can set your desired speed with the throttle stick within the preset value. If you keep the lever fully depressed, your Sea-Doo will run consistently at the set speed. The main advantage of this is that you can pay attention to the environment instead of speed control.

Cruise button: Many Sea-Doos have a dedicated Cruise button that allows you to activate Cruise mode.

DESS – Digitally Encoded Security System: From the mid-1990s, every Sea-Doo came with a special anti-theft system, the DESS (Digitally Encoded Security System). This is a very useful feature as security is of paramount importance to many owners.

Speaking of the system, the Sea-Doo’s safety line cap contains a unique chip. To start the Sea-Doo, all you have to do is attach the tether clip to the circuit breaker and press the start button. The computer automatically recognizes the DESS key and allows you to start the engine. The disadvantage of the system is that in the event of a broken or lost key, you will need to take your Sea-Doo to your dealer. This is because your Sea-Doo always requires a new DESS key to be programmed.

D-Sea-Bel System: Sea-Doo’s unique D-Sea-Bel system consists of a series of anti-vibration and resonator components. These parts work together to make your Sea-Doo quieter on the water.

DI – Direct Injection: The acronym “DI” refers to the direct injection fuel system on classic 2-stroke Sea-Doo models. Sea-Doo released its first fuel injected engines in 1998. Since this year the manufacturer has been offering models with carburetors as well as the more efficient models with fuel injection. Today, “DI” is no longer included in the engine name as every Sea-Doo is equipped with a fuel-injected 4-stroke engine.

Drowning Mode – What is Sea-Doo Drowning Mode? Sea-Doo Drown Mode cranks the engine without starting it. This is useful when changing the oil in your Sea-Doo as it allows you to pump more oil into the bottom of the engine. This way you can siphon off more used oil. To engage Drown mode on your Sea-Doo, fully depress and hold the throttle while cranking the engine. After a few seconds of cranking, first release the start button and only then the throttle.

ECO Mode: Your Sea-Doo’s ECO mode is the most fuel-efficient driving mode. To achieve this, ECO mode limits your top speed and acceleration. Keep in mind that this will result in more moderate performance. Because of this, ECO mode is a great choice for any beginner Sea-Doo.

ECO button: With the ECO button on the handlebar you can activate and deactivate the ECO mode.

ETC – Electronic Throttle Control: If your Sea-Doo is equipped with this system, it means you can control engine speed electronically instead of using a regular throttle cable. This results in a more direct throttle response and smoother running. The throttle lever is also more sensitive and immediately returns to its starting position when released.

Ergolock System: The Sea-Doo Ergolock System is a set of ergonomic features. It includes the special “Racing Style” seat, the angled footwells and the adjustable handlebars. These features “anchor” you to the seat, resulting in better handling, more aggressive cornering and increased safety.

Error Codes and Messages: Error codes and messages are displayed on your dashboard when a malfunction occurs. The list of official Sea-Doo error codes can be found here.

iBR – Intelligent Braking and Reverse System: Sea-Doo iBR is your boat’s braking and reversing system. Simply put, the iBR is a gate behind the pump that you control with the iBR lever (left). By lowering the iBR gate, you can reverse the direction of the water jet. Eventually, this can slow down or even move your Sea-Doo backwards. That means you can electronically command a handlebar to brake, reverse or coast. That’s why owning a Sea-Doo with the iBR system is a huge help for any beginner!

Do all jet skis shoot water?

There are 3 main jet ski manufacturers – Sea-Doo, Yamaha, and Kawasaki. Only Yamaha waverunners shoot the rooster tail of water in the air.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

There are 3 main manufacturers of jet skis – Sea-Doo, Yamaha and Kawasaki.

Only Yamaha Waverunners shoot the rooster’s tail out of water in the air.

There are 3 reasons why a Yamaha jet ski shoots water in the air.

sight range. brand thing. To annoy or cool down the person you are dragging.

The jet ski water spout is mainly for visibility

Visibility is the main reason why Yamaha jet skis shoot water backwards.

Jet skis are tiny and nimble. It’s easy to lose sight of one, especially when the water is busy.

One solution Yamaha found is to use the jet pump to shoot a jet of water into the air. Because there is a lot of power coming out of a jet ski, this jet of water can get very high, making you more visible at a greater distance.

This gargoyle gives it its cock tail look.

The second reason is a branding issue

This is how Harley Davidson motorcycles have their unique engine sound. Or how a Mercedes Benz makes that unique sound when you close the door.

Yamaha’s thing is shooting water in the air.

Do you need the water outlet on your jet ski?

Shooting water up in the air behind your jet ski will make it more visible, but only slightly.

After a while, the slight visibility you get isn’t worth the hassle.

When you’re towing someone on an inner tube or wakeboarding, the jet of water often hits them in the face, making them harder to see. That might be a good thing if you’re looking to cool off, but it gets annoying quickly.

It’s not just the people that pull you, but if the wind gets you just right or you hit a bump just right, you’ll get wet from the spout. It might seem fun to worry about getting wet on a jet ski, but it’s not every moment you want to be wet or get water on your face.

The water spout also limits what you can carry in the back like a cooler or gas can.

This rooster tail of water can also annoy others in your riding group by getting them wet or blocking their view.

Most people who ride jet skis will remove these gargoyles. It’s the jet ski’s thrust that pushes the water into the air, and as a racer you need full thrust to propel yourself forward.

If you’re looking to remove your water spout from your Yamaha jet ski, here’s a great video to show you how.

Sea-Doo brakes

The closest thing to this non-Yamaha water spout would be Sea-Doo’s iBR system.

iBR is Sea-Doo’s braking and reversing system. When you hit the brakes at high speed, a wall of water shoots up behind you, much like a brake light. I find a wall of water more visible than a jet of water shooting into the air.

But the Sea-Doo Wall of Water only occurs when you hit the brakes and drive at high speed. Where the Yamaha always has a constant current. And to be fair, Yamaha today has a braking system that does similar things.

Jet Ski leak – taking on water – How \u0026 Where? Drain Water!

Jet Ski leak – taking on water – How \u0026 Where? Drain Water!
Jet Ski leak – taking on water – How \u0026 Where? Drain Water!


See some more details on the topic jet ski taking on water here:

5 Common Reasons Jet Skis Sink (and what to do about it)

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Is it Normal for Water to Get Inside a Jet Ski? [Video] – JetDrift

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Jet Ski Full of Water – What To Do When Sinking

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What to do if Water Gets in Your PWC Engine – Sea-Doo

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Thread: Yamaha FX taking on water… – Greenhulk

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Sea doo keeps taking water in hull

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How to Get Water Out of the Hull of a Personal Watercraft

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What To Do When Sinking

Having a watercraft full of water is a big problem. Even worse when filled with salty beach water.

So what to do if you get water in your jet ski?

Getting water on your jet ski can happen when a violent storm takes it away and damages it. Or you might have forgotten to put the drain plugs in. Or worse, you might have flipped them over so you can get something out of the pump.

Let me start with this…DO NOT TURN THE WATERCRAFT UPPER FOR ANY REASON. If you have sucked up a rope, do not tip the watercraft. If you turn it over, water can get in and it will find its way to the motor and hydrolock it. Just don’t turn around!

Call your local dealer or watercraft repair shop to see what to do first!

The breakdown

If it is full of water, do not start the engine. Make it land. While waiting to be towed, remove the water as best you can. Avoid touching the motor as it may be hot. Once on land, remove the drain plugs to drain the water from the hull. Do not start the engine. Don’t even put the key on it. See a dealer or watercraft mechanic immediately. If you have insurance, call the insurance company to see what they can do. Wait until you get feedback from the technicians to see the damage.

The important things first

What you want to do first is get the jet ski back on land. If it absorbs water or contains water, you really need to keep it far from the water.

The good news when you sink is that most modern watercraft don’t sink 100%. If you look inside them you will see foam and that is there to prevent the watercraft from hitting the bottom. The bad news is that the nose of the craft will be the only part that will float, the other 98% of the craft will be submerged.

So, hook onto the bow hooks at the front and tow the watercraft onto land or a trailer. Be careful not to panic and hurt yourself – the damage is done.

If the jet ski is submerged or most of the motor is submerged in water, DO NOT START IT!

Do not attempt to start the engine when the engine is covered with water. Attempting to start the engine when it is hydrolocked can result in a tie rod being bent or causing more damage, which can render the engine unusable and wrecked. It’s best to take it to a dealer or someone who knows how to get water out of the engine.

While waiting to go ashore or tow, try to get the water out of the vehicle. I recommend purchasing storage containers or security kits (Amazon Link Ad) as they double as scoops. If you have something fancy like a water pump (Amazon Link Ad) then use that. If not just use a regular cup. Avoid touching the running motor, it might be hot!

Once on land

When putting the vehicle back on land and onto a trailer, you should remove the drain plugs. You want to drain as much water as there is soaking.

Do not start the engine again. I had someone pull ashore and try to start the engine thinking it would get the water out faster – it doesn’t – it just makes it worse.

At this point, your best bet is to take it to a dealer or someone who knows how to get water out of a jet ski engine.

Not much water

What if the watercraft didn’t take on a lot of water? I still recommend having it looked at by a professional. But to see if there is water in the engine, then remove the dipstick.

If the oil contains water, it will look like a caramel-colored smoothie. This mixture is much more runny than oil and can even drip anywhere when you pull out the dipstick. If you see this caramel or tan/brown looking stuff coming out of your dipstick then that’s bad and take it to a dealer fast.

If the oil looks like oil then you are fine, but still contact your local dealer to see what to do.

salt water

If your watercraft has ingested salt water, you need to get this bad boy to the dealer or mechanic as soon as possible. Saltwater corrodes metals and every hour you have this stuff in your engine it gets worse.

Many boat engines don’t come back after ingesting salt water, salt water is that bad.

It’s actually quite interesting that many marine engine manufacturers even use salt water for cooling and engine as it is very corrosive. Some vehicles like Seadoo use a closed cooling system that does not ingest water to cool the engine. I’ll go into more detail on closed-loop and open-loop cooling here.

Ingest Salt Water = Get the water out ASAP!

Also, do not start the engine if there is water in the engine. I’m really hammering this point in.

Ingestion of water by the engine

If you pick up water from the running engine and are not sinking out of a hole or drain plug, turn off the engine. Call to get a tow.

The reason you’re sinking with the engine running is a leak in a water hose, and with the engine running you’ll sink faster if that’s the case.

At times like these, it’s best to have a folding paddle (Amazon Link Ad).

How do you get it back on land?

You must tow the watercraft back to shore. If you don’t have another jet ski or boat, you need something like SeaTow.

If you do not have a SeaTow membership, you must purchase one. If SeaTow isn’t offered, there are others who can help. Visit your local boat dealer and they can help you.

Usually the membership fee is less than paying the towing fees, so get the membership. If not, then just write down their phone number in case you need them to haul you in. Sometimes they even offer help to their members who have a sunken ship and make it less painful.

What to Expect

So you landed your jet ski and now you have it at a good dealer or repair shop. So what can you expect?

If you took my advice and never started the engine and it’s not salt water then you should be fine. So relax.

Once you start the engine, hope nothing was damaged.

If you took salt water and brought it to the repair site and they got the water out in a day or two, don’t worry too much. Just wait for them to give you a better idea of ​​the condition.

So now it’s time for the repair shop to get to work and I’m sure you’ve seen this before so relax now.

Water and oil don’t mix, so you have to get the water out of the engine. That is not easy. There is no special device that can separate the oil from the water. So what they do is remove the spark plugs and the air intake manifold and many other parts that might contain water and get that out. Then they do an oil change to mix the oil and water.

The bad news is that it can get expensive. There are many places for water to hide in the engine and it needs to get out. You will probably do quite a few oil changes to ensure the engine is free of water in the oil.

You’ll also need to check the electrical system to make sure they’re fine and haven’t been affected by water. Water and electricity don’t mix. It’s also best to replace the battery even if it seems fine. You can find good batteries at your local dealer. Check with your retailer for the size you need to ensure you get the right one.

insurance

If you do have insurance, which you should, then it’s best to call them to see what they can do about your current situation. This is sometimes covered by insurance, but not always. It really depends on your situation and what insurance you have.

Will it drive soon?

If you pick up seawater and don’t do any damage, the watercraft should be fine.

If my watercraft took on fresh water, I would still drive it and not worry. If you get it to the right people who have seen this before then you really have nothing to worry about.

These things happen.

Try to get past it and when you get it back, ride the watercraft.

If you sell it, will you find it difficult to resell it?

Probably not. It is best to say that the watercraft was watered and repaired prior to sale – that is correct. One way to tell if the watercraft has taken on water is if the seats are very heavy as they contain water, meaning they have been sunk.

Is it Normal for Water to Get Inside a Jet Ski? [Video]

Because of their construction, jet skis tend to let some water into their hull. So it’s normal to have a few cups of water in the bilge after a trip. On the other hand, if too much water collects in your ski, this is an indication that it needs a thorough inspection. Are you wondering where water gets into your skis and how to fix it? Continue reading!

How does water get into a jet ski? There are many ways water can enter a jet ski, but the main ones are the following: Air vents

drain plugs

Driveshaft Bearing Housing/Carbon Ring

Bailer system valve

Sponsons, intake grille, driving plate and fittings

Trim and brake/reverse system

exhaust and cooling system

Cracks in the hull

+1 While cleaning or storing, let’s take a closer look at each one! Air Vents Air vents on a jet ski are holes in the upper deck that serve to allow fresh air to flow into the hull. They are usually located high above the waterline around the seat, on the handlebar neck or at the front of the upper deck. These vents allow water to enter the hull when cruising in choppy water. Turning the jet ski upside down can also allow water to enter the hull through the vents or, in the worst case, through the exhaust system into the engine. (To avoid this, there is a sticker on the tail of the ski that explains how to properly flip the jet ski.) Drain Plugs Losing the drain plugs is another common reason for water to collect in the hull of jet skis. These plugs are designed to drain water when the ski is on the trailer. However, because they are below the waterline, they can intrude water if not properly tightened. In addition, forgetting these screws can cause your ski to sink in a short time! Because of this risk, you should always double check the drain plugs as part of the pre-check.

Driveshaft Bearing Housing/Carbon Ring Let’s go ahead and talk about some more serious malfunctions. The jet ski driveshaft connects the motor to the pump assembly. To keep water out, the driveshaft uses a unique sealing system. On Yamaha and Kawasaki jet skis, this device is known as a driveshaft bearing housing and bolts to the inside of the hull. Although this assembly proves to be very durable, there is always a chance that the screws will loosen or the double lip seal will tear. In this case, the bearing housing cannot completely keep out the water. Unlike this unit, the Sea-Doo carbon ring seal is much less durable. This seal performs the same job as the bearing housing on competitive skis, but is prone to cracking or wearing unevenly. Even with the slightest damage, it allows water to enter the hull. So if you have a Sea-Doo, it’s highly recommended to keep an eye on the carbon ring seal. Drain System Valve The bilge system is designed to siphon bilge water using the suction power of the jet pump. This water scoop has a valve that prevents the water from flowing back. Failure of this valve can also allow external water to enter the hull. Float, driving plate, intake grille, fittings The bolts of the various fittings and features below the waterline can also loosen. These devices include the sponsons, road plates, and intake grilles, which can become loose over time. Another common problem is when these parts are incorrectly replaced after maintenance and water leaks through the screw holes. To avoid these problems, it is recommended to use a special waterproof silicone to seal these units. If your ski has a black hull, you can’t go wrong with Permatex Ultra Black or Right Stuff. Trim and Reverse System Other potential leak points on a jet ski are parts of the trim and brake/reverse system. For example, Sea-Doo’s VTS system uses a rubber boot that is prone to leaks, which allows water to pool in the VTS unit. This can damage the electronics and motor of the VTS system. Like the trim, the braking and reversing systems (like Sea-Doo’s iBR or Yamaha’s RiDE) use pushrods that go through the hull. A broken seal around these units can also cause leakage problems. Exhaust and Cooling System Many jet skis use an open cooling system that uses external water to keep their engines cool. This cooling system directs external water from the pump to the engine via hoses to the water jacket. In addition, the exhaust system and intercooler (if fitted) are also cooled by external water. A ruptured hose or loose connection in these systems can pump a significant amount of water into the hull. They should therefore be checked and serviced regularly. Although Sea-Doos are equipped with closed-loop engine cooling, the exhaust and intercooler on these machines are still cooled with an open-loop system. In addition, the exhaust system on the ski can also be damaged, which can lead to water leaks. Cracks and Damage to the Hull Jet ski hulls are made from many different materials, but some tend to crack over time. Improper towing, a collision or wave jumping can also damage the hull. Result? Water seeps into the hull through these cracks. Fortunately, most jet ski hulls can be easily repaired at a professional shop. Cleaning and Storage Interestingly, not only can water get into a jet ski while in use, many riders also notice some residual water in the bilge after cleaning the engine and its compartment. Sometimes you have to tip the trailer up to allow the remaining water to drain into the bottom of the bilge. Note that it takes time for water to accumulate at the bottom of the hull. If you store your skis outside, it is also a good idea to protect them with a good quality cover. Leaving it uncovered can be harmful to your ski in a number of ways. For example, a strong storm can send water into the footwells or even through the vents into the hull.

How to Flush a Personal Watercraft (PWC) Engine

A Personal Watercraft (PWC) such as a BRP Sea-Doo, Yamaha WaveRunner, or Kawasaki Jet Ski should be flushed after a day of operation in salt water or when exposed to muddy or sandy conditions in fresh water.

Flushing saltwater and debris from the engine cooling system and exhaust helps prevent internal corrosion and keeps those vital cooling passages clear, keeping your PWC reliable and keeping you fun on the water.

Here’s how to flush the engine and flush the engine compartment.

7 Steps to Flushing a Jetski, WaveRunner, or Sea-Doo

Follow these simple steps to flush your watercraft engine – but remember to always find and follow the instructions for your model before flushing for the first time.

Make sure the PWC is horizontal (level) with the floor. Locate the flushing connector – likely on the mirror, under the seat, or in the engine compartment, depending on the model. Attach a garden hose to the flush fitting; but do not start the water flow. Start the PWC motor and let it idle, then immediately start the water flow through the hose. Follow your owner’s owner’s manual, which instructs you to idle for 90 seconds to 3 minutes. Shut off the water flow and then shut off the engine. Disconnect the water hose and put the cap back on the flush fitting.

And that’s it! It’s not a bad idea to hose down the jet drive. Spray water into the inlet at the bottom of the hull and into the jet nozzle at the rear of the PWC.

It is important to remember that starting the water flow before starting the engine can result in water flowing through the exhaust into the engine’s combustion chamber. When you are finished rinsing, always turn off the water first. Some brands instruct you to give the throttle a few quick flicks before shutting off the engine to clear water from the exhaust.

Now let’s dive a little deeper into the details…

Discover all brands of personal watercraft (PWC).

Follow your user manual

We have provided general instructions above, but for specific flushing instructions for your PWC model, you should consult the service section of the owner’s manual. If you don’t have a copy of the manual, you can often download it for free from the manufacturer’s website, or a dealer can order a printed copy for you.

On closed-loop models (most recent Sea-Doo PWC models), flush the exhaust only. On other personal watercraft, flush the exhaust and engine cooling passages.

Flushing is a simple process, but it is important that you follow the flushing instructions for your PWC exactly as they are outlined in the manual. Failure to follow instructions can result in water entering the engine, which can lead to expensive repairs.

You can flush the PWC while it is on a trailer, storage rack, or hoist, but it must be out of the water.

Locate the flushing port

On some models, the flushing port is located on the transom (at the rear of the fuselage), while on others it is under the seat or in the engine compartment.

Check your owner’s manual for the site again. Some flush fittings are designed to accept the male end of a garden hose. Others use a snap-in adapter that screws onto the garden hose. The adapter came with the PWC when it was new. If you don’t have the adapter and it is needed for your model, you can get one from a dealer.

Flush your engine compartment

When used in salt water, a mist containing salt can enter the engine compartment through the ventilation system. This salty mist can corrode throttle linkage, electrical connectors, and other components, so be sure to rinse it off.

Remove the seat parts and lift off any covers under the seat so you can see the engine – consult your owner’s manual if you are unsure how to do this. Wait for the PWC motor to cool down. Never flush a hot engine. Remove the bilge plug from the lower rear of the hull to allow the flush water to drain. If possible, tilt the bow of the watercraft up slightly to allow water to drain from the bilge. With your water hose, simply flush the engine bay and bilge with fresh water. It’s okay to use your thumb to create a stream of water, but don’t use a high-pressure nozzle and NEVER USE A POWER WASHER. Too much pressure can force water past seals at electrical connectors and other places where it is undesirable. Use an old towel or rag to wipe water off surfaces you can reach. Spray the engine components with a water-displacing lubricant (many PWC manufacturers offer these specialty products) or WD-40. This will displace any remaining water and leave a thin anti-corrosion film.

Store the PWC with the seat removed to allow the engine compartment to dry completely. You can leave the bow angled up for easier draining, but don’t forget to replace the bilge plug before using the boat again. Leave a reminder, e.g. B. a post-it note on the handlebars so that you don’t forget anything.

Continue reading: Personal Watercraft (PWC) Safety Guide.

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