Horse Bit Fitter Near Me? Top 50 Best Answers

I am an equine dentist with many years of experience and was a specialist veterinary assistant in my previous career.

I was the first Australian to graduate from the International College for Professional Bit Fitting Consultants (ICPBC) in the Netherlands.

I have seen hundreds of horses with bit wounds and strive to educate riders to maximize the potential of their relationship with their horses.

We all want our horses to be as happy and comfortable as possible at their work. A correct bit and bridle fit will help the rider avoid pinching, sores, pain and discomfort. All of this will strengthen the bond, trust and performance between horse and rider.

In order for a denture to work properly, it has to sit properly in the mouth, i.e. fit. A bit that is too small can pinch or make it difficult for the horse to close its mouth properly. A bit that is too large will slide back and forth in the horse’s mouth and may even hit the horse’s teeth. In either case, your rein aids will not be accurate and your horse will not get the correct signals to stop and turn. Traditionally, riders have used the “one fold rule” to determine if the bit is in the right place in the mouth and is seated properly. A crease in the corner of the horse’s mouth meant the bit was in the right place. This is not always accurate and does not necessarily mean the bit will match or be set correctly. The bit should fit comfortably over the ridges (the toothless gap between the incisors and molars) of the horse’s jaw, and this may mean there is not just a crease, or no crease at all.

If you attach an articulated bit like a D-ring or a loose snaffle bit, there may be no puckering of the lips at all. This does not mean that the bit does not fit. The way the bit looks from the outside may have nothing to do with what’s happening inside the horse’s mouth. Take a look inside the horse’s mouth by lifting the lips and noticing where the bit sits on the bars. It shouldn’t sit so high or low that it touches the teeth on either side of the bar. Also pay attention to the horse’s reaction. Your horse may be telling you that it is uncomfortable by chewing, mouth biting, or other behavior. If the bit is not positioned evenly in the mouth, the horse may start to cock or toss its head. Adjust the snaffle so that the bit is balanced on both sides and sits comfortably in the middle of the bars.

Adjusting the bit may not just be a matter of positioning, but also the size and shape of the bit itself. Horses have differently shaped mouths, meaning different bits may be more comfortable for some than others. You may have measured your horse’s mouth and decided to buy a 5 inch bit. However, the length of the mouthpiece is not the only thing to consider. Horse mouths come in different sizes and shapes, just like two people may have feet of the same size but not necessarily wear exactly the same type of horseshoe.

For example, you can think of a very thick snaffle with mousse as a very soft, comfortable bit, but for a horse with a meaty tongue and a low palate it can be an uncomfortable bite. The bit may fit in width, but not in thickness. So if you’re having trouble getting your horse to carry something softer, you might want to try a different type of mouthpiece. Some horses like jointed mouthpieces or seem more comfortable in other types of joints, e.g. B. in a French connection instead of a loose ring snaffle. Some horses may be happier with a bit with a port that leaves some room for their tongue. The width, shape and thickness of the mouthpiece are factors in the correct fit of the bit.

It can take a little trial and error to find the correct position for the bit in the horse’s mouth. Try adjusting the bit according to how the bit fits in the horse’s mouth and also try different types of mouthpieces. Your horse’s bit may be the right size, but if it’s not in the right position, it won’t be comfortable or effective.

Just like the different materials from which bits are made, horse bits come in many mouthpiece styles. Choosing the right bit for your horse can take some trial and error. Some factors to consider are the size and shape of your horse’s mouth, how your horse has been trained and what your level of riding ability is. Ultimately, you should choose the mildest bit that still allows clear communication with the horse.

One of the most common signs that you should consider a bit change is when the well-trained horse appears awkward in the mouth, fussy or fidgety. Perhaps the horse is uneven on both sides of the muzzle for no apparent physical reason. It is also important to distinguish between a horse walking through the bridle and a horse leaning on the bridle. In the first case, a stronger bit may be required. In the second case, the problem is a balance issue and should be corrected with proper riding and training (see ‘Better Balance’ in the June issue).

When choosing bits, it is important to consider the shape of the horse’s mouth, as not all bits are created equal. A horse with a small mouth or limited space between the tongue and palate may find a thick snaffle uncomfortable, making a “soft” bit harder. You also need to consider the action of each bit and how it works. Does it put pressure on the poll, bars or curb area? Does it provide leverage or raise the bit in the mouth? Does it leave room for the tongue?

Hackamore bridles can occasionally come in handy when a horse has a mouth injury and needs a break from a bit. There are some horses that work very well in a hackamore but care should be taken when using one as the horse may be more difficult to control or alternatively it may be a strong bridle itself.

That’s not the problem with the bit

If you find yourself constantly swapping bits for stronger and stronger bits only to find that the effectiveness diminishes over time, I strongly encourage you to look at the training as the answer to the problem, not the bit. Very often this progression means that a horse is out of balance and needs a change in training tactics before there are no bits strong enough!

Keep in mind that what works for one horse may not work for the next as each horse has a unique shape of its mouth. The goal is to make them comfortable and happy so they can listen to the driver, rather than putting more hardware in their mouths to give the illusion of control. Too much bridle makes a horse uncomfortable and overreacts. You should want to move forward of the leg and connect to the bridle. For this reason I prefer to use as little as possible as I want my horses to feel comfortable whenever they grab my hands.

Always seek professional advice if you find yourself in a difficult biting situation. Occasionally it is difficult to identify the root cause of a horse not accepting the bit and a professional may have dealt with a similar problem in the past and have a different take on the situation.

Riders want to see some salivation as a wet mouth is a softer mouth.

The variety of bit types and shapes seen in catalogs and on tack room walls is daunting enough, and when you factor in what the bits are made of, it’s hard to know where to start when choosing a bit target.

Download a PDF of the entire article here.

The choice of a particular bit material is most important for horse acceptance. Some materials are softer or harder, warmer or colder, sweeter or tasteless.

Ideally, the horse should chew the bit gently and drool slightly while working – a wet mouth is a more lubricated mouth and therefore a softer mouth.

Bit material can also be a matter of looks. Stainless steel is the easiest to keep shiny. Bits that are prone to rust will have a matte finish, and bits that contain copper will have a gold tinge. Many bits have a single material mouthpiece and stainless steel bit rings for both looks and strength.

In terms of price, rubber/plastics and pure copper are generally lower, while stainless steel is mid-range. A lower price generally corresponds to a lower durability. With rubber/plastic and softer metals, you should check the bit regularly to make sure the chewed areas are not rough or sharp, which can cause sores.

Metal is usually preferred over materials like plastic and rubber as it is much more durable and also creates less friction. While rubber bits may appear “soft” due to their thickness and synthetic bits appealing due to their taste, for many horses they can be too thick and pull on the skin at the corner of the mouth. Thicker is not softer, in rubber/plastic or metal, when the horse’s mouth is relatively small inside. Rubber and plastic bits also usually have a thin seam that can rub.

Download a PDF of the above list here.

There is endless debate about the properties of different metals and how they behave in the wet environment of a horse’s mouth. It is commonly believed that oxidation (rust) or copper promotes salivation. There is also significant concern whether the nickel found in some bits can cause allergic reactions and mouth sores. Some believe that mixing metals can create a reaction in the mouth that irritates the horse. Bit material table available as PDF here.

As for salivation, yes, certain materials promote a wet mouth better than others. The most important element, however, is the education of the hands that hold the reins. An experienced rider can help a horse relax its jaw and bend its poll, which naturally activates the salivary glands.

If you want to determine if a particular material is making a positive difference for your horse, you need to swap out bits of the same type and size. However, most people don’t have access to such a choice and if they experiment a bit with a different material it can be a different design as well. In this case, there’s really no way to tell if a positive difference is really a matter of material versus actual bit conformation and size.

Stainless vs Sweet

In stainless steel, chromium is added to the steel to reduce corrosion and make it shiny and strong, while up to 10% nickel is added in varying amounts for even greater durability. There is really no way for a person buying a stainless steel bit to tell how much nickel is in the steel if they are at all concerned about nickel contact allergy, although high quality stainless steel is said to plate the nickel and not cause any problems, even for people sensitive to nickel .

When choosing a metal bit, the choice usually falls on rustproof, tasteless or a slightly rusting or copper-containing metal with a so-called “sweet” taste, which of course promotes gentle chewing of the bit and salivation. This is a very individual calling. There has been quite extensive research in Europe, with certain brands touting their own alloy, the most well known being Herm Sprenger’s Aurigan which contains no nickel. Copper alloy bits are very popular in sport horse disciplines today, although stainless steel is still common.

Even a simple, well-fitting stainless steel snaffle like this can cause drooling in the right hands.

mixing metals

Concern over whether the mixing of separate metals, particularly steel and copper, could create a slight electrical charge in a horse’s wet mouth was once so serious that it was specifically forbidden in the USEF dressage rules, even to the point where Parts of it were not allowed two different metals in one curb. The problem came to a head a decade ago when copper alloys became widely used in dressage bits. While these bits could vary wildly in their copper content, there was little way to tell them apart based on their appearance

While an electrical charge is theoretically possible, it is not actually possible in practical use. The horses seemed lucky enough, and since there was no longer a way to consistently enforce the rule, it was discarded. However, this is an area where proponents are completely opposed – some think mixing copper and steel is potentially irritating, e.g. B. with pulleys, inserts or separate links, while others find it to be the best of both worlds. Other considerations when choosing a bit.

Shopping

The predominant material in most tack shops is stainless steel. Depending on where the store buys its inventory and the likely interests – western or English – of the customers, you’ll see some rubber, some plastic, and various other metals.

The problem is that most bits rarely have tags that give you real information about the bit materials. The price tag can contain abbreviations (SS for stainless steel, GS for German silver, etc.) for material and manufacturer in such tiny writing that even the saleswomen cannot decipher them. When it comes to materials, you may be better off working with a catalog or website that can provide you with more information. However, what you can’t tell from a catalog is if the bit has rough edges – never buy a bit until you’ve run your fingers over each portion, especially where the rings and mouthpiece meet.

Buying used bits can be a huge bargain, but you probably won’t be able to accurately identify the material. Avoid bits with nickel or chrome plating, which can chip, especially if worn areas show through. Some older dentures may also contain aluminium, which is very light and shiny but not durable and can cause the mouth to dry out. Always check the requirements of your specific discipline before purchasing a bit.

Don’t expect sellers to know all the rules. They usually won’t. Do not accept advertising claims at face value. Advertisements often say ‘legal for shows’, but what might be legal for one discipline, like dressage, isn’t legal for another, like dressage. B. Versatility, and often the rules change before advertising does.

bottom line

The most basic training bit is a stainless steel loose-ring, two-jointed snaffle with a short, rounded central section. Stainless steel should be your starting point when considering materials for any type of denture – it’s durable, attractive, inexpensive and tasteless.

If you’re looking to particularly encourage salivation, consider copper or a copper alloy. Certain high copper content alloys are also available without nickel if that is a priority. Otherwise, if you are trying to solve a bit “problem”, first look at the dentistry, fit and riding style before trying a range of bit types and materials.

Putting a bit in your horse’s mouth has become a habit so ingrained in our daily lives that we often forget that this metal bit is anything but harmless. Many articles are popping up on the internet to warn us that bits are harmful to our horses and often feel very guilty about using bits. But few articles actually explain how the bits work and how to choose them.

We will not mention bitless solutions here as the article would become too long. However, this is something we can talk about later. Rather, what we are going to talk about today will be: What is the action of the different bits? Why should I choose one or the other bit for my horse? How do I know if the bit I have is right for my horse? And this without advocating one solution or the other.

Many thanks to Géraldine Vandevenne, bitfitter, for proofreading.

Click on the image to download the free Top Rider Challenge 2021. Benefit from a detailed 15-day training program to train with the discipline of champions!

What anatomical structures does the bit affect?

The bit rests on the bars when it is in the mouth. It’s that toothless space between the incisors and the molars. The bit acts on important anatomical contact points that are highly sensitive:

the tongue, muscular, more sensitive to pinching than to pressure. The size varies depending on the horse.

the corners of the lips are a bit more sensitive

the bars that are really, really delicate 😨. It’s actually a mucous membrane that lies directly on the lower jawbone (which is really sharp 🔪)

finally the mandibular nerve, which is extremely sensitive. It gets worse when clamped against the jaw bone and a curb chain. Leather protection is then interesting (rubber warps and is often too thick). We’ll come back to that later.

We can assess the hardness of a bit without even using it, simply by analyzing its impact on each contact point. It is the first step in bit fitting. Remember: the horse’s mouth is as sensitive as a human’s!

📚 Read more: How mares differ from women

How do I choose a bit that fits my horse’s mouth?

That’s a good question that we should ask ourselves more often. We always think about the effect we want the bit to have, but the most important thing is that a bit fits our horse’s mouth. Here are 3 key points:

The size of the bit (in mm) must be chosen according to the ring type. An O-ring snaffle must protrude 5mm on each side of the muzzle (otherwise there is a risk of pinching the skin). An eggbutt bridle only has to stick out about 2 mm 📏

The thickness of the mouthpiece must be adjusted to the mouth. To check this, open your horse’s mouth around the bars when his mouth is closed. The mouthpiece must not be larger than the distance between the two bars, otherwise the horse simply cannot close its mouth. The thickness of the mouthpiece must also take into account the thickness of your horse’s tongue and therefore the space in the mouth.

The height of the bit (which you adjust with the cheek pieces). It must be adjusted so that the bit does not touch the teeth (incisors or molars). This way, depending on your horse’s mouth, you will have a different number or folds at the corners of the lips. We usually go for 2 folds but you need to adapt to your horse. Some need 0 folds, some need 4.

How do simple bits behave?

Let’s dive into the heart of the matter. A simple bit (i.e. with a single ring and no curb chain) mainly affects the corners of the mouth. But be careful: It depends on the angle between the head and the neck. Or rather, the angle between his mouth and your hands!

The more your mouth is parallel to your hands (neck extension or high hands), the more you act on the corners of the lips. When the muzzle is vertical (horse behind vertical or hands very low), the action occurs only on the bars.

Why are the mouthpieces oddly shaped?

The shape of the mouthpiece changed everything. First of all, the number of “joints” on the mouthpiece is important.

Straight bar bits

A straight bar bite works more on the tongue. The tongue dampens the movement of the bit away from the bars. However, these bits lack precision as both sides are not separated. They’re supposed to be softer, but not all horses can handle the pressure on their tongue.

Impact on the tongue can have major impacts on locomotion. In fact, the tongue is attached to the hyoid bone. It is connected to muscles going to the sternum and articulates with the skull. So the tongue isn’t just in the mouth…

Structured Bits

Articulated mouthpieces (single or double broken) are folded in half when the rider acts with his reins. Depending on the shape of the bit and the rider’s hand position in relation to the mouth, they can create a point that presses on the horse’s palate. However, your actions on the bars will be different.

Single jointed bits can have a “nutcracker” effect depending on the rider’s hand position. This creates pressure on the horse’s bars by “freeing” the tongue.

A double jointed bit is more precise as the two sides are separated better than with a straight or single jointed bit.

other bits

You can also find mouth bits to help the horse relax or spoon bits to prevent the horse from getting his tongue over the bit. However, be aware that if a horse tries to get his tongue over the bit, it’s because it hurts! So stopping him from getting his tongue over the bit won’t solve the problem. Medium ported bits release the tongue bit and increase pressure on the bars. However, these bits have a relatively small tongue space, so they cannot free the entire tongue.

Let’s also remember that the thinner the mouthpiece, the harder the action. In fact, when the contact area is reduced, the pressure increases. Also, a little reminder of elementary physics: Pressure = Force / Surface Area. So to decrease the pressure, either decrease the force or increase the contact area.

In this case, the bit can become extremely hard with twisted mouthpieces with sharp edges… 😱

What changes the ring shape?

Depending on the type of bit, the rings may or may not slide.

If they don’t slip, as with an eggbutt or D-ring, the time delaying the rider’s hand movement on the horse’s muzzle is reduced. That makes them more accurate.

The shape of the ring itself (D-ring, full cheeks, half cheeks) affects the ease of leading the horse. When the ring is larger, the rider’s hand movement is received by a larger area of ​​the horse’s mouth and it becomes easier to choose a direction.

When half the cheek ring is flat, the action becomes softer (contact zone increased = pressure decreased). By the way, in case you’ve been wondering like me for a while: if half the cheek piece goes down, it only prevents the bit from leaving the horse’s mouth. However, when it goes up, it has the same effect as a full cheek.

How does a pessoa or pelham affect my horse’s mouth?

What matters with these bits is whether or not they have a curb chain.

Bits without curb chains (Baucher, Pessoa…)

On bits without curb chains (e.g. Baucher or Pessoa bits), the top ring (where the cheek hangs) shifts forward when the rider’s hands grip it. This puts pressure on the base of the neck and the horse lowers its head. The bit goes into the mouth to act on the corners of the lips. ⇒ This is the lifting action.

This action becomes stronger when the top ring is long or has a large diameter. The longer, the more the bit rises and acts on the neck.

Chain bits (Pelham, Goyo, Lhotte…)

When a curb chain is actually present (as in a Pelham bit), the top ring tilts forward and applies pressure to the nape of the neck in the same way. However, the bit cannot go up because of the curb chain. It will instead put more pressure on the bars, and the curb chain will compress the bone and mandibular nerve. The horse has no choice but to close its head-neck angle to avoid this harsh action. ⇒ This is the lowering process.

So the lower you put the reins (to make the branch longer), the stronger the action. A reminder that a properly adjusted curb chain will only tension when the branch has a 45° action in the mouth.

What difference between the materials?

There are actually many different materials. Steel, copper, rubber, plastics…

Important is:

Black rubber can cause chafing

Plastics deteriorate easily and can cause liner sores

Leather is often too big and the seams can be uncomfortable. The leather is also chemically treated…

Copper (never used alone, only as an alloy) stimulates the horse’s salivation and helps with relaxation

Nickel, used in many alloys (like brass), can be allergic to some horses

Alloys are generally softer. Some conduct heat better or may be lighter.

A little tip: if it’s cold outside, try to warm up the bit before putting it in your horse’s mouth. It’s not great sucking on ice cubes in the middle of winter! ☃

Conclusion

The bit adjustment is really important. This choice should be made with your horse’s preferences and their own anatomy in mind. Your horse may not be able to handle a “softer” bit. It is better to use a tighter bit that is well adjusted and your horse enjoys it than a softer bit that is not suitable for his mouth. Let’s also remember that the bridle also has an important influence on your horse’s relaxation. If you have any doubts, don’t hesitate to contact a bitfitter: that’s their job! They will try to help you find a good compromise between horse and rider, taking into account the couple’s age, level and field. While trying to avoid the vicious spiral of harder and heavier bits.

A bit becomes soft when it suits horse and rider.

The problem of a hard hand

What matters when it comes to bit fitting is: the setting, the type of bit, the material… but at the end of the day, the hand on the end of the reins counts the most. A study has shown that if the tension in the reins is too great, the behavior (teeth grinding, tongue over the bit…) will persist even after changing the bit (Manfredi et al., 2010). So if your horse opens its mouth on its bit, grinds its teeth, or exhibits some other defensive behavior, ask yourself: Is the bit adjusted and did I choose the right one? does my horse hurt anywhere? But above all: Is my hand too hard?

If you’re getting rid of problems related to adjusting and changing bits, tightening the noseband won’t solve anything. No foot, no horse, but also no mouth, no horse. So a soft hand for a hard bit and a soft hand for a soft bit … also a soft hand!

“With a plethora of devices to control the horse, we can’t hear it. You cannot listen to a horse you silence.” Général d’Aure.

Camille Sauté

R&D leader at Equisense

bibliography

Ensuring that your horse’s bit fits properly is an important part of caring for your horse’s well-being. In order for the bit to work properly, it must first sit properly in the horse’s mouth.

Bits are often either too small or too big. If your horse’s bit is too big, you will find that the bit will move back and forth in your horse’s mouth, which can hit your horse’s teeth. In this case, your rein aids are unclear and are not being transmitted effectively to your horse. However, a bit that is too small can cause pinching and rubbing, and your horse may not be able to close its mouth properly.

If you’re worried that your bit isn’t sitting properly, or that the bit just isn’t right for your horse, look out for some obvious signs:

Opening the mouth and chewing a bite

Tongue hanging out when riding

Stay behind the bit

toss head

Sores or abrasions where the teeth were.

Bit rings should not press tightly against your horse’s face

A LITTLE ADVICE

Checking that the bit is properly fitted could potentially be the solution to your misbehaving horse. Whether that’s the case or not, as part of the SHS team, we encourage you to try this inexpensive and easy method.

All you need is:

A piece of twine

A ruler/tape measure

STEP 1: Put a halter on your horse and have someone help you.

STEP 2: Grab the piece of string and insert it into your horse’s mouth, also positioning the string so that it sits roughly at the corner of the mouth where the bit would be.

STEP 3: Tighten the string and use your fingers to hold it at each corner of the lips where it was positioned.

STEP 4: While still holding the string, remove the string from your horse’s mouth. Then have your assistant measure the length between your fingers with the ruler or tape measure.

This gives you a quick and easy guide to what bit size to use for your horse. The general rule is; A well fitting bit will create a crease or two at the corner of the mouth once the bridle is on. If you are still concerned about how your bit fits, you can always ask your equine dentist, veterinarian or horse trainer for advice.

MEASURE YOUR BITS

All horse mouths have different conformations, which means you should consider both the length of the mouthpiece and the width. If your current denture fits well, you can use this size as a guide when purchasing a new denture.

To properly measure your dentures, place them on a flat, level surface. Then use a ruler or tape measure and measure along the mouthpiece of the bit. Be sure to measure from the inside of one ring to the inside of the other ring.

If you can guess your current bit size and your horses seem happy and approachable, don’t worry, chances are the bit will fit just fine.

Control the horse’s head and the rest of his body will follow. This simple principle applies not only to steering and stopping, but also to the mental state of the horse. A horse with a comfortable mouth will be less distracted from its work.

The two most common bits worn by racehorses are a D bit and a ring bit. Both bits are snaffles, which means that the mouthpiece consists of two connected metal segments. The D-bit is the easiest in a horse’s mouth and the simplest. Its name describes the D-shaped rings that attach the ends of the bit to the snaffle.

“A D-bit is easy,” said trainer and former jockey Art Sherman, 81, whose most notable load was double Horse of the Year California Chrome. “Normally you use a D bit on mares who don’t like a hard bit in their mouth, a bit soft in the mouth. It is very gentle on the horse’s mouth.”

A ring bit has a ring that encloses the horse’s lower jaw. The ring gives the jockey better steering for horses that tend to drag or carry, and gives the jockey better control of a horse that tends to run away or resist the rider’s hands.

“Typically, on a horse that’s a little tougher, you would use a ring bit,” Sherman said. “I like tying up their tongues so they can’t get their tongues over the ring because then they get to a point where you can’t handle them anymore. If you tie her tongue and use the ring bit, you can canter a pretty tough horse holding the bit.”

Sherman recalled Lykatill Hill, whom he considers the toughest horse in his 40-year training career. The 1994 Del Mar Budweiser Breeders’ Cup Handicap winner was Sherman’s second best horse, surpassed only by California Chrome on the trainer’s Equibase list of best horses.

“He was one of my first Graded Stakes winners, and he was a terribly tough horse,” Sherman said. “I remember Eddie D. [Delahoussaye] won a big race for me at Del Mar, a Grade-2, and he said when he came back, ‘That horse scared me so much, you have no idea. ‘

“When he took off,” Sherman continued, “he was one of those horses you couldn’t stop. He would just walk away and he had to be given a place to go or he would run over someone. It’s a bit scary for the athlete.”

After trying different bits on the gelding, Sherman settled on a ring bit with an overcheck, a leather headpiece that allows the rider to better hold the horse’s head. After Lykatill Hill realized he could be controlled, he became more manageable.

“He was always tough but you could ride him and put him behind horses without him stomping into the rest of the field because he was going off pace and once you got him rolling you had to give him a place to go” said Sherman. “He wasn’t one of those horses you could walk between horses. You had to let him out there somehow, to give him a lot of room to adjust. Aside from Chrome, he was probably one of my all-time favorite horses because he was tough.”

D bits and ring bits are available with a rubber coating on the mouthpiece. The rubber coating is easier for a horse with a sensitive mouth and gives a nervous horse something to chew on when it gets anxious. Rubber coated bits are commonly used when introducing a young horse to the bridle.

Haughton bit

Kentucky Derby and Preakness winner Funny Cide rode a variation of the ring bit called the Haughton Bit, designed by Harness Hall of Fame trainer Billy Haughton. Instead of a ring encircling the entire lower jaw, the Houghton bit has a three-sided bar welded to the ends of the mouthpiece, forming a square around the horse’s lower jaw.

Trainer Barclay Tagg said Funny Cide was difficult to judge at both Breezing and Racing. The gelding had a small, sensitive mouth, so finding a bit that was comfortable for the horse yet effective was a challenge.

“He used to endure a bit and stuff like that,” Tagg said. “A Haughton bit, some people think it’s a heavy bit, but it’s not bad at all. It just keeps everything in place without really hard pressure. It just worked for him [Funny Cide]. It wasn’t sliding around in his mouth or anything. It was a good fit. He respected it and it couldn’t hurt him.”

A regulator bit is used on horses that tend to drag or sag. Sherman was quick to point out that before a trainer decides to use a bit on a horse with these tendencies, he should evaluate the horse for a physical problem.

“Usually a horse that drags itself in usually has something to do with it that’s bothering them,” he said. “When they change leadership, they go straight in. You can see that in the videos [of the horse races]. Usually they get tired or have a little problem somewhere.”

Curlin wore a regulator bit, but he didn’t seem to have any problems. The double Horse of the Year and Racing Hall of Fame member earned $10,501,800, ranking sixth on the all-time money-maker list.

In 1999, Dr. Robert Cook, Professor Emeritus of the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, developed a bitless bridle that he claims stops exercise-induced pulmonary hemorrhage (bleeding) by eliminating neurological disorders of the larynx. He has not presented any independent study results to support his theory. Cook has unsuccessfully lobbied for races to adopt his bitless bridle, which is prohibited under Kentucky racing rules. Other jurisdictions such as California do not have rules on their books banning bitless bridles, leaving the decision up to safety officials who have not previously allowed it.

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Although bitless bridles are becoming increasingly popular, most riders today still use a bit to control their horse.

Many people consider the bit essential for riding, while others consider it unnecessary and cruel.

Horse bits are not necessarily cruel, although they can cause discomfort and pain to the horse. It all depends on the rider’s hands and the type of bit. However, if used roughly, any bit can permanently damage the horse’s mouth.

Unfortunately, even the gentlest of bits, like a snaffle, still cause discomfort to the horse. However, when used kindly and responsibly, bits can become an effective means of communication between rider and horse.

Why do riders use horse bits?

The tradition of using horse bits has stood the test of time remarkably well. Bits were first used in the Bronze Age (3300 BC to 1200 BC) and are still the primary way riders control their horses from the saddle.

The main reasons why riders use horse bits are:

Immediate reply

Bits sit directly on the soft tissue of the horse’s mouth, in the gap between the incisors and premolars. As this is an extremely sensitive area, horses react immediately to the slightest pressure.

Since there is little or no delay between the rider’s signal and the horse’s response, bits are a very effective training tool. With bits, riders get where they want to go much faster than without, which is why they are so common in equestrian circles.

full control

Bits guarantee the rider full control over the horse in most situations. Horses cannot ignore the pressure in their mouth for too long and strive to relieve discomfort by responding to the cues.

However, this level of control comes at a price. Some horses may hate and resist the bit, which can cause a whole host of problems.

according to dr Robert Cook, a professor at Tufts University in Massachusetts, sometimes bits can even be counterproductive. If used too roughly, bits can cause horses to “run away from pain” and cause them to speed up instead of slowing down. That is why the careful and responsible handling of dentures is so important.

security

Horse bits also give riders a sense of security and confidence. Many riders find it unsafe to ride barefoot and rely on its power when riding in traffic or on the trails.

Disadvantages of horse bits

While bits offer several benefits to the rider, the same cannot be said for the horse. In one of his many studies of the effects of horse bites, Dr. Cook over 200 negative behaviors and 40 diseases that can result from wearing dentures.

mouth damage

A fairly obvious risk of using a horse bit is damaging the horse’s mouth. Structures that suffer the most damage are the bridges, premolars, tongue, hard palate, and corners of the mouth.

Although the pressure is most concentrated in these areas, the horse may also experience pain in the face, nose, jaw, eyes and ears. Leverage bits like Pelham or Tom Thumb put extra pressure on the poll and chin groove.

bone spurs

Bone spurs are small protrusions that form on bones that have undergone trauma and remodeling. One area that is particularly prone to developing bone spurs is the cheeks of the horse’s mouth.

according to dr Cook, the thickness of the gums over the horse’s lower jaw is only about 2mm. Therefore, it doesn’t take much for the bit to damage the bars and cause excessive bone growth. Bone spurs can go undetected throughout a horse’s life and will only add to the discomfort in the mouth.

pressure on the nerves

All types of bits put some pressure on the nerves of the horse’s head. One nerve that is often severely affected by bits is the trigeminal nerve.

This superficial nerve runs from the base of the ear to the snout and controls the muscles used for chewing. Excessive bumping of the bit against the jawbone can cause the trigeminal nerve to become hypersensitive and cause head shaking, a condition known as trigeminal neuralgia (source: Horse Sport).

Impaired breathing

Studies have shown that bits can interfere with a horse’s breathing by triggering a “feeding” response.

Bits naturally encourage the horse to salivate, chew and swallow as they move constantly in the mouth. according to dr Cook prepares the throat for swallowing by narrowing the air passage and widening the food passage. This limits the amount of air that can get into the lungs, affecting breathing.

Impaired balance and movement

Because the bit directly controls the position of the head and neck, it can impede the horse’s balance and movement when used by an inexperienced rider. In addition, bits can alter a horse’s gaits by shortening stride length, says veterinarian Joyce Harman.

according to dr Harman, certain muscles of the horse’s tongue attach to a series of bones known as the hyoid bone. These bones are also the origin of two large neck muscles that attach to the sternum and shoulder blade.

Therefore, tension in the tongue leads to tension in the entire neck and shoulder. The result is a stiff horse that performs below standard, rather than being relaxed and supple in those areas.

behavioral problems

Last but not least, bits can trigger a number of undesirable behaviors in horses. Examples include head shaking, jerking, bolting, napping, rearing up, and excessive salivation.

Are horse bits ethical?

The use of horse bits is unethical as it intentionally causes discomfort and pain to the horse. Many people argue that horseback riding is not intrinsically ethical.

There is a large community of vegans and animal rights activists opposed to the use of horses for human entertainment. In their view, horses do not need humans to survive in the wild and it is an unethical act to take advantage of them in any way.

On the other hand, some scientists argue that human domestication may have saved the horse from extinction in the past. Several large Ice Age species have disappeared from the face of the earth due to human overhunting.

Therefore, horses’ new role in human society likely saved them from suffering the same fate.

We explore this topic in our article Is horseback riding cruel?

Do horse bits cause pain?

Bits often cause pain to the horse, especially when used by rough hands. Bits that are incorrectly fitted or the wrong size for the horse can also cause discomfort and pain.

When riding with a bit, the rider should not forget that he is in direct contact with the horse’s mouth. As this area is extremely sensitive, riders should always use the lightest possible aids in combination with leg and weight signals.

When attaching a bit to a bridle, two creases in the corners of the horse’s mouth indicate a good fit. A bit that is too tight can easily cause cuts and sores in the mouth, making it impossible for the horse to accept the bit.

Here is a video demonstration of how horse bits work and can cause horse pain:

Can you ride a horse without a bit?

Bitless bridles make it possible to ride a horse without a bit and still have full control over the animal. They come in a variety of designs ranging from mild to severe and are growing in popularity.

Riding without a bit has many advantages. Without the pressure of a piece of metal in their mouths, horses are generally more relaxed and willing to work. Riders have also reported more expressive movements as a result of freeing the horse from the limitations of the bit.

Learn more: Guide to bitless bridles: how they work, benefits, types and best to buy

Do horses like to have a bit in their mouth?

In general, most horses don’t like having a bit in their mouth. However, some like to play with the bit and can therefore concentrate more on the rider’s aids.

Strange as it sounds, there are horses that rely on the guidance of the bit and get confused without it. This is most typical of horses that have been trained with a bit from an early age and have not had a bad experience with it.

There are entire books on horse bits and how to find the best one for your horse, so it’s impossible to cover everything in a single article. However, there are basics that every horse owner should know. To simplify your search for the perfect horse bit, we’ve reviewed the most common bits in both English and Western disciplines, along with some overlaps. We also look at what should be considered when choosing a bit and how to find the best bit for you and your horse.

A quick comparison of our favorites in 2022

Image Product Details Best Overall Copper Eggbutt Snaffle Horse Bit Competition Approved in English and Western Disciplines Versatile Mild Action Check Price Best for Beginners Stubben Loose Ring Snaffle Horse Bit Useful for Training and Riding Double Break Mouthpiece Available in Multiple Sizes Check Price Best for Barrel Racing JP Korsteel detachable ring snaffle Encourages your horse to break away from the forehand Encourages salivation Curved design Check price Great for training Weaver twisted wire leather snaffle Great improvement over the traditional snaffle Functional bit with a single break Not too hard Check price Best corrective bit The choice of professionals Corrective bit Promotes salivation Pivoting legs Can be used on most horses Check price

The 10 best horse bits

1. Copper Diamond Joint Eggbutt Snaffle Horse Bit – Best all-purpose bit Check price at Chewy Check price at Amazon Bit Type: Snaffle

Every rider should have a universal snaffle bit in his tack room. This Linked Eggbutt Snaffle Bit is a three piece snaffle bit available in a variety of jaw sizes from 4.5″ to 5.75″. The three piece style makes this bit super smooth. It is a great bit for everyday riding, safe in the hands of inexperienced riders and useful for both Western and English disciplines. The copper mouthpiece encourages your horse to salivate, so wearing this bit for long periods of time will not make him feel uncomfortable.

The eggbutt style cheek pieces on this snaffle bit mean you don’t need a bit guard like you would with a loose snaffle ring. The only downside to an eggbutt snaffle is that the bit has to fit your horse’s mouth perfectly. If you’re moving between different horses, you may be better off with a loose ring snaffle. While a three-piece bit is generally gentler on a horse’s mouth than a two-piece snaffle with a break, some horses just don’t like it. This bit is quite gentle and therefore not ideal for training.

All in all we think this is the best horse bit you can buy this year.

advantages

Disadvantages

2. Stubben Easy-Control Loose Ring Snaffle Horse Bit – Best for Beginners Check Price at Chewy Check Price at Amazon Bit Type: Snaffle

The Stubben Easy-Control Loose Ring Snaffle Bit is a relatively mild bit that’s safe enough for beginners, but also makes an excellent training bit. With the mouthpiece separated from the rings, your horse can feel even the most subtle rein signals. Being a snaffle, it works with direct rein pressure and the double-break mouthpiece makes it softer than a single-break bit.

As with any bit, this can become harsh when used by a sluggish rider or beginners who do not have good rein control. If binding is a problem, riders should choose to ride in a halter or bitless bridle with a side pull to prevent damage to their horse’s mouth.

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3. JP Korsteel Blue Steel Oval Link Loose Ring Snaffle Bit – Best for Barrel Racing Check Price at Chewy Check Price at Amazon Bit Type: Snaffle

JP Korsteel’s Blue Steel Oval Link Loose Ring is a great choice for barrel racing bits. The curved design reduces nutcracker action by preventing contact with your horse’s mouth, while the steel surface encourages salivation.

The articulated design of this bridle prevents your horse from leaning on the forehand, which is especially important in barrel racing. By getting your horse to work from his rear end, you will have more power and speed on the pattern.

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4. Weaver Leather Professional Ring Twisted Wire Curved Mouth Snaffle – Best for Training Check Latest Price Bit Type: Snaffle

This twisted wire bit from Weaver features a loose ring design to help your horse pick up subtle reining cues. As this is a loose ring bit guards are needed on the side to protect your horse’s lips. This is a relatively mild, functional bit with a single break. It should be noted that a twisted wire bit is harder than a smooth bit and should not be used by beginners.

This is a good choice for horses that need a little more communication than a typical snaffle but don’t need the added leverage of a lower leg. This bit can rust over time, so it needs to be cleaned regularly.

advantages

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5. Professional’s Choice Spring Shaft Correction Bit – Best Correction Bit Check Latest Price Bit Type: Curb

The Professional’s Choice Feather Shank Correction Bit is a curb bit designed to do the exercise it’s named after: correction. Such bits play an important role in training. This portbit contains copper to encourage salivation and rotating shanks to refine communication.

This piece, or a version of it, is likely to be in most coaches’ arsenal. It’s a popular style of bit because it works so well and can be used on almost any horse to refine and soften cues. It’s also a great choice for transitioning young horses from a snaffle to a double bit.

This bit gets tough if left in inexperienced hands. A bit is only as good as the skill of the rider, so while it is a good choice for experienced riders, it should not be used by beginners.

advantages

Disadvantages

6. Professionals Choice Bob Avila Santa Rosa Shank – Best Western Show Bit Check Current Price Bit Type: Curb

At many western shows, horses over the age of 5 are not permitted to use bridles in the show ring. In most cases, show bits are intended to be used when riding one-handed, so little direct rein pressure should be applied on the long thighs.

This bit has a copper roller mouthpiece that impatient horses can play with while encouraging salivation. As with any “Showbit” this one is not designed for everyday riding but is primarily reserved for use in the ring.

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7. Myler 02 Hookless English Dee – Best Hunting/Jumping/Dressage Bit Check Latest Price Bit Type: Curb

The Myler 02 English Dee bit is legal for dressage and can be used in a variety of ways for all English disciplines. Myler bits have different levels to suit your horse’s personality, training, potential and experience. Level 1 bits work primarily with tongue pressure and are considered the mildest of all Myler bits. The riser of this bit rotates separately to encourage your horse to snap at the poll without pinching, while the curved mouthpiece gives your horse a more comfortable fit.

This bit has no hooks, so there is no separate place to attach the bit to the bridle. This can lead to less stability of the bit in the horse’s mouth. Whether this is a problem is a matter of preference. Hooks are specific to English disciplines; While western horses can use snaffles with D-rings, they typically do not have hooks.

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8. Horze Equestrian Apple Flavored Bridle Mullen Loose Ring Bridle – Best for Colt Starting and Green Check price on Chewy Check price on Amazon Bit Type: Bridle

This Horze Equestrian Mullen bit is apple flavored to encourage sensitive or inexperienced horses to use the bit. The Mullen-style mouthpiece adds stability to the bit, while the rubberized, flavored coating promotes bit acceptance. The solid mouthpiece will not collapse under pressure and the pressure is evenly distributed across the horse’s mouth. Loose cheek pieces promote self-support.

This bit is ideal for beginners as it has built in positive reinforcement mechanisms to promote bit acceptance for those who may be reluctant to do so. It is not good for long-term use or refining movement. However, it provides an extra bit of help and encouragement to a horse that needs it.

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9. Reinsman Junior Cowhorse Snaffle with Sweet Iron – Best suited for horses that don’t bridle or that work in cattle testing

Junior cowhorse bits come in a variety of styles, but they are essentially three-piece toggle bits with short shanks. Some are “half gags” with leverage. This particular Reinsman model is designed to help your horse transition from direct reining to neck reining. It helps teach your horse to bring his legs under him and his hind end down—exactly the movements you want when working with a cow.

Although referred to as a “cowhorse” bit, this bit is a fantastic bit for horses that require more contact than a snaffle provides. The roll often calms nervous horses and encourages the right headset by adding tongue pressure. This bit is also a cute iron bit, so your horse will like it.

Junior cowhorse bits fall into the love ’em or hate ’em categories in the horse world. Some horses do well in it and some don’t. Being a curb bit, it can be harsh when used by heavy-handed drivers. This model is a nice in-between gag-bit with some leverage.

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10. Bob Avila Collection of Professional Choice Swivel Port Bit Check Latest Price Bit Type: Curb, Correction, Port

Swivel port bits like this one from Professional’s Choice are a mild shank bit when used with light hands. The mouthpiece is designed to rotate a full 360 degrees and each side rotates separately, giving you ultimate control over every part of your horse’s body. You can find this type of bit with all different shaft lengths, fancy show designs or smooth sides, but what ultimately matters is how you use it to quench your horse.

The pivoting action makes rein signals extremely easy for your horse to understand, making this bit a great tool when transitioning a young horse from a snaffle to a curb. This bit can still be used with direct reining, mimics the pressure of the snaffle bit and allows your horse to adjust with almost no difficulty. This bit has a longer shank which is ideal for slowing down the connection between the rider’s hands and the horse’s mouth. This is key for your horse to learn to walk with leverage.

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Buyer’s Guide – Horse Bits 101

Horse bits are among the most misunderstood, mislabeled and misused pieces of tack out there. Bridle, curb, lever, toggle, port, shank, loose ring—while these terms are thrown around freely among horse connoisseurs, they can be incredibly confusing for anyone just learning about bits. For all intents and purposes, there are two primary bit types:

There are thousands of different variations of each, but every horse bit falls into one of these categories. The distinction is important. It is a common misconception that a snaffle bit refers to a bit with a broken mouthpiece. There are even snaffles called snaffles (like the Tom Thumb Snaffle) that have shanks but are actually curb bits.

Snaffle bits use direct pressure, while curb bits use leverage. If a bit has shanks and runs on leverage, it’s a curb bit. The mouthpiece has nothing to do with it. Many snaffles and double bridles have identical mouthpieces, but work completely differently. The cheek piece defines the bit and nothing else.

Types of Bridles

Snaffle bits come in all sorts of styles including D-rings, O-rings, eggbutts, loose rings, fixed rings and full cheeks. They can also have any type of mouthpiece:

Types of Curb Bits

Curb bits can have any of the mouthpieces listed and a dozen or so others. The mouthpiece doesn’t matter, the cheekpiece does! Curb bits can have long or short shanks and all kinds of styles, but they always have shanks that connect the bit to the rein. These legs act as leverage when rein pressure is applied. The horse receives pressure through the chin strap under its chin, and then the pressure is applied to different parts of the horse’s mouth depending on the type of mouthpiece.

English bit exceptions

While all bits can be classified as either snaffles or curbs, three types of English bits function as an “intermediate” category. The Pelham, Kimberwicke and Elevator bits can work with the characteristics of a snaffle and a curb. Pelham and Elevator bits are used with double reins, so one set of reins rides on a snaffle ring while the other rides on the curb ring. This allows the rider to use both types of bit actions at their discretion.

How to choose the best horse bit

The wide range of bridles available means there is a suit for every different combination of horse, rider, goal and discipline. Even small differences in bit construction can affect the way a horse responds to rein aids.

There are four things to consider when choosing a bit:

Your hands

A rider’s hands should move independently of the rest of the body. This means that the rider should be balanced in the saddle and not put pressure on the reins to balance himself. While driving, your hands may move up, down, and to the side. If you don’t have independent hands yet, you should only use gentle bits when learning to avoid causing pain to your horse.

Your horse’s mouth

Some horses are more sensitive to rein pressure than others. They are often referred to as “soft-mouthed” or “hard-mouthed” horses. Young or green horses have sensitive mouths and require gentle bits combined with gentle hands. Horses that have been ridden roughly and in hard strokes often have hard mouths. They need to be desensitized and often do not respond to soft bits or light rein aids.

training problems

If you have specific training issues with your horse that you want to address, this will affect your bit choice. The ultimate goal should always be to have a responsive horse as smooth as possible, but sometimes different bits can help overcome challenges in your horse’s learning. For example, if your horse does not stop well, you may need to use a stronger bit to train your horse to stop with light aids. It is important to note that a training bit should be used as a tool. Horses should not be “bitten” to cover up a problem that can be solved with appropriate training.

riding discipline

The riding discipline you participate in plays a role in bit choice. Hunter, Show Jumping, Dressage, Western Pleasure, Reining and Cutting competitions have rules about which bits you can use in the ring. For example, in a western amusement show, you can only use a snaffle bit on a horse that is 5 years old or younger. When your horse is older, you must ride it with a curb bit, but it must not be a gag bit like the junior cowhorse.

Are bits cruel?

This question is worth addressing as there are people who do not use bits on horses or believe that bits are painful instruments of torture that damage horses’ mouths.

The aim of a bit is to improve communication between rider and horse in a gentle way. When properly used by compassionate and gentle riders and trainers, they are not inherently cruel.

Whichever bit you use, it comes in contact with a very sensitive part of the horse’s body and increases the pressure on it. If the rider snaps, pulls, or otherwise awkwardly works on the reins at the end of the reins, even the lightest parts can cause pain. Like any other tool in horse training, bits work on the principle of pressure and relaxation. It can be uncomfortable enough to cause a reaction, but it should never cause pain if used properly.

How to measure a bit

The most common bit sizes are 5, 5.5 and 6 inches. Some bits come in 6.5 and 7 inch sizes and are primarily used for draft or draft cross horses. Bits under 5 inches in length are considered pony bits.

A bit is measured by laying it flat and using a ruler to measure the distance between the cheek pieces.

You can use a bit sizer to help you measure your horse’s mouth a little. It’s important to choose the right size because a bit that’s too small will pinch the corners of your horse’s mouth, and a bit that’s too big won’t communicate your rein aids effectively.

Conclusion

Ultimately, the best bit is the mildest bit you can use to communicate with your horse. Horses, like humans, have preferences when it comes to bits. Sometimes it takes a bit of trial and error to find what you need. Like the Copper Lozenge Link Eggbutt Snaffle Horse Bit, a snaffle bit is a good all-round horse bit that can be used in many different disciplines and for everyday riding. The reviews in this article should give you a good starting point as to what to look out for shortly. When in doubt, try different options or consult a trainer for help choosing the best bit for you and your horse.

Selected image source: 11A Photography, Shutterstock

Horse & Hound is supported by its audience. If you shop through links on our site, we may receive a commission on some of the items you choose to purchase. Learn more

What is a Waterford?

The Waterford bridle looks like a series of ball chain links. It usually comes with plain loose snaffle rings, although you can also buy Waterfords with full cheeks or toggle rings.

It is a flexible bit that hugs the horse’s mouth and creates an even pressure. It is articulated in all directions and horses find it difficult to lean on or grab it, giving the rider a good level of control.

Martyn Welsh, bit expert at Equiport says: “Strong horses seem to accept the Waterford bit better than a Pelham or Curb bit because its action is interrupted when the horse sets its jaw. The bit fits very loosely in the horse’s mouth, so they seem to eat more with this bit.”

Who uses it?

Fiona Jonason, who is based in Cheshire with leading eventer Polly Stockton, is currently using a Waterford on her advanced ride Zinzan Tiger. Fiona first rode Zinzan Tiger in a Waterford when he was seven before switching to a diamond bridle last year but has now returned to a Waterford again.

“I rode Zinzan Tiger at the Waterford last year but only for home school as he can get quite strong,” explains Fiona. “All winter I rode him in a Waterford and because he jumped so well in it I decided to let him compete.

“The Waterford suits him because he tends to clench his jaw, but this piece keeps him from clinging to it.”

anyone else?

Cheshire based rider Mike Florence uses the Waterford for his range of beginner show jumpers at the Mellor Vale stables. “There’s no nutcracker action, so a horse can’t lean on it, and since it’s not a hard bit, they walk on it with no problem,” says Mike. “But just as strong is that I can get them back off the bit with no problem. “It’s a bit that I especially like for a youngster because it gets him to mouth and salivate well, relax the jaw and make him more responsive to the rein aids. Because it’s not rigid, it’s especially useful for a horse trying to hold on. “I have at least nine horses that use a Waterford snaffle which suggests many horses are happy with it. “I just transformed one of my best horses from a simple ring snaffle to one. She tends to run downhill and I can now balance her and keep her together in a Waterford and keep her from digging a hole without overbiting her.”

Horse & Dog (April 5, ’06)

If you think you’re good with metal and repair parts, then a career in Fitting and Turning might be for you!

Locksmiths and turners are highly skilled craftsmen who manufacture and design components for machines and operate power tools such as lathes, milling machines and drills. They maintain and repair many different types of machines. They are also responsible for assembling and installing new components and equipment. It’s a highly skilled job.

What is a locksmith and turner?

What are the duties and responsibilities of a locksmith and lathe operator?

Assembles and assembles components for machines;

maintain and repair machines;

Uses blueprints/plans to measure materials for production;

Monitors machines and repairs errors;

Fits parts required to complete the machine;

drills and taps;

reconditioned valves;

Tension and align V-belt;

Uses machines (such as lathes and mills) to manufacture components.

What Skills and Skills are Required to Become a Locksmith and Turner?

Good at working with your hands;

Must be very mechanical;

Must be able to take accurate measurements and work accurately;

Must be mathematically inclined;

Must be able to concentrate in noisy working conditions;

Being able to read three-dimensional drawings.

What are the working conditions of a locksmith and lathe operator like?

A locksmith and lathe operator generally works in noisy, dirty, and sometimes crowded conditions. There are many physical demands at work, such as B. Standing and squatting for periods of time that can be tiring. A locksmith and lathe operator also occasionally works overtime on public holidays, weekends and at night.

What are the minimum entry requirements to study Turning and Lathe Engineering at a TVET College?

At a vocational college, the normal entry requirements for the Fitting and Turning course are:

NC(V) program:

A Grade 9 Certificate + college requirements set per program.

NATED program:

N4 Admission – Grade 12 with a Pass in Mathematics + College Requirements per program OR an NC(V) Level 4 Certificate in Engineering and Related Design.

What do I have to do if I want to study Fitting and Turning?

How to become a Locksmith and Turner in South Africa: Qualifications, Jobs and Income

Locksmiths and lathe operators are versatile professionals who can practice their trade in a wide variety of industries. Their tasks include the manufacture and assembly of various mechanical components for machines and systems. The prerequisites for this are locksmith and lathe operator courses as well as technical assembly knowledge that is acquired through training and education.

Locksmith and lathe jobs in South Africa ensure a reliable income. Workers with the required qualifications can quickly fill a position in factories, shipyards, mines or industrial plants, among others.

What qualifications do you need to become a locksmith and lathe operator?

Machining is a craft that is necessary for several industries. It is a process where a professional worker transforms a piece of raw material into a desired shape and size. This practice is difficult for people who lack the necessary skills to acquire through courses, hands-on learning, and work experience.

To become a locksmith and lathe operator, one must have a high school diploma (or at least Class 10) that certifies that one has completed one’s apprenticeship. Some employers may require higher certifications. As a rule, applicants for installation and change jobs can acquire knowledge in courses and training before they are entitled to a starting salary.

The profession of fitter and lathe operator in South Africa is part of the MerSETA (Manufacturing Engineering and Related Services Sector Education and Training Authority) directory. To apply for this position you must:

Be at least 16 years old

Possess N1-N3 and/or N4-N6 certificates

Have Basic Engineering Theory, NQR Level 3, 32 credits

Knowledge of Adaptation Theory, NQF Level 4, 38 credits

Knowledge of Machining Theory, NQF Level 4, 36 credits

Have a total of 106 credits for knowledge modules

have 4 years of education

Possess a national certificate proving you have completed locksmith and lathe operator courses

In addition to these mandatory qualifications, a locksmith and lathe operator must demonstrate the following qualities:

Be physically fit for heavy work

Enjoy working with their hands

Be meticulous and accurate

Can work in noisy environments

Have good eyesight

They have excellent troubleshooting skills

Possess a basic knowledge of mathematics and science

You have a good technical understanding

Understand the delicate process of editing

Can read 3D drawings and blueprints

Work calmly, carefully and with the utmost precision

According to the South African Qualifications Authority (SAQA), a suitable and rotating job also includes these requirements:

An in-depth understanding of health and safety compliance regulations

Basic knowledge of handling hand and power tools

Excellent command of assembly and turning tools

A large amount of communication skills

Patience to get the best results from an editing task

What is a locksmith and lathe operator job?

Locksmiths and turners have to design and assemble various components necessary for the proper functioning of machines and other equipment. In addition, they must be able to ensure the maintenance of such equipment and its eventual repair in the event of a malfunction.

A locksmith and turner usually works with power tools such as drills and milling machines. You must be aware of the occupational hazards involved in operating these tools, including but not limited to injury and electric shock.

You must read blueprints or drawings and use them to develop parts that complete machines. Next, they need to assemble them and test their function.

Their main tasks include:

Manufacture components by machining

Installing or replacing components in an installation

Troubleshooting elements of a machine

Use of engineering tools of various kinds

Repair of defective parts

Fitted and turned parts

Ensuring the maintenance of mechanical machine components.

After completing an apprenticeship as a locksmith and lathe operator and four years of training, you can start your career as a locksmith and lathe operator in areas such as:

Manufacturing, construction and maintenance

industrial plants and factories

iron and steel works

shipyards

Rail, port and pipeline

Locksmiths and turners in the automotive sector

mines

garages

How much does a locksmith and lathe operator earn per year?

An impressive range of technical adjustments, turning and machining jobs and solid experience in the profession will get you a decent annual salary in South Africa.

Currently, the average hourly wage for locksmiths and lathe operators is R104.48. Depending on your skills and experience you can earn between R35 and R184 per hour, in addition to which you may also receive a bonus of between R4,427 and R31,707 calculated for a full year.

As a student or trainee, you are initially only allowed to earn the minimum wage. However, over time you can earn an average of R212,440 per year. The most you can earn in 12 months as a fitter and lathe operator in South Africa is R411,000 which is well above minimum wage.

How to work as a fitter and lathe operator in South Africa

South Africa has a broad market for fitter and lathe operator jobs. There is a great demand for such professionals in numerous industries and sectors. There are several options available to applicants who meet the required qualifications and skills to pursue this career.

Participation in locksmith and lathe operator courses increases the chances of finding a job. You can add the valuable information you receive from them to the practical experience you gain during your training. This gives you a competitive advantage over other applicants for the same position.

Working as a locksmith and lathe operator in South Africa offers you unique opportunities to advance your career and access a high paying salary. With dedication, hard work, and patience, you can become one of the most useful engineers in the country.

Assemblers and lathe operators assemble, assemble, grind and form metal parts and assemblies to make production machinery and other equipment. Specializations: Weapons Mechanic (Army). In order to work as a locksmith and lathe operator, you usually need a degree III in engineering – mechanical engineering.

What does a fitter do?

A locksmith and turner makes industrial tools, components, and products from metal. Working to a set of specifications, they operate tools and machinery to grind, grind and shape raw materials into the specified shape and then assemble the final product.

What is needed for a locksmith and turner?

Admission Requirements

N1 Admission Requirement: Class 9 (Std 7) Certificate with a pass in Mathematics and Physics OR no formal qualifications for any age 23 or older. N3 Admission Requirement: Class 11 (Std 9) Certificate with a Pass in Math and Physics or N2.

What is fitting and rotating?

A lathe operator is a craft that manufactures (turning) and assembles (turning) metal parts to construct industrial machinery, machine parts, or tools.

How to become a Locksmith and Turner in South Africa: Qualifications, Jobs and Income

Locksmiths and lathe operators are versatile professionals who can practice their trade in a wide variety of industries. Their tasks include the manufacture and assembly of various mechanical components for machines and systems. The prerequisites for this are locksmith and lathe operator courses as well as technical assembly knowledge that is acquired through training and education.

Locksmith and lathe jobs in South Africa ensure a reliable income. Workers with the required qualifications can quickly fill a position in factories, shipyards, mines or industrial plants, among others.

What qualifications do you need to become a locksmith and lathe operator?

Machining is a craft that is necessary for several industries. It is a process where a professional worker transforms a piece of raw material into a desired shape and size. This practice is difficult for people who lack the necessary skills to acquire through courses, hands-on learning, and work experience.

To become a locksmith and lathe operator, one must have a high school diploma (or at least Class 10) that certifies that one has completed one’s apprenticeship. Some employers may require higher certifications. As a rule, applicants for installation and change jobs can acquire knowledge in courses and training before they are entitled to a starting salary.

The profession of fitter and lathe operator in South Africa is part of the MerSETA (Manufacturing Engineering and Related Services Sector Education and Training Authority) directory. To apply for this position you must:

Be at least 16 years old

Possess N1-N3 and/or N4-N6 certificates

Have Basic Engineering Theory, NQR Level 3, 32 credits

Knowledge of Adaptation Theory, NQF Level 4, 38 credits

Knowledge of Machining Theory, NQF Level 4, 36 credits

Have a total of 106 credits for knowledge modules

have 4 years of education

Possess a national certificate proving you have completed locksmith and lathe operator courses

In addition to these mandatory qualifications, a locksmith and lathe operator must demonstrate the following qualities:

Be physically fit for heavy work

Enjoy working with their hands

Be meticulous and accurate

Can work in noisy environments

Have good eyesight

They have excellent troubleshooting skills

Possess a basic knowledge of mathematics and science

You have a good technical understanding

Understand the delicate process of editing

Can read 3D drawings and blueprints

Work calmly, carefully and with the utmost precision

According to the South African Qualifications Authority (SAQA), a suitable and rotating job also includes these requirements:

An in-depth understanding of health and safety compliance regulations

Basic knowledge of handling hand and power tools

Excellent command of assembly and turning tools

A large amount of communication skills

Patience to get the best results from an editing task

What is a locksmith and lathe operator job?

Locksmiths and turners have to design and assemble various components necessary for the proper functioning of machines and other equipment. In addition, they must be able to ensure the maintenance of such equipment and its eventual repair in the event of a malfunction.

A locksmith and turner usually works with power tools such as drills and milling machines. You must be aware of the occupational hazards involved in operating these tools, including but not limited to injury and electric shock.

You must read blueprints or drawings and use them to develop parts that complete machines. Next, they need to assemble them and test their function.

Their main tasks include:

Manufacture components by machining

Installing or replacing components in an installation

Troubleshooting elements of a machine

Use of engineering tools of various kinds

Repair of defective parts

Fitted and turned parts

Ensuring the maintenance of mechanical machine components.

After completing an apprenticeship as a locksmith and lathe operator and four years of training, you can start your career as a locksmith and lathe operator in areas such as:

Manufacturing, construction and maintenance

industrial plants and factories

iron and steel works

shipyards

Rail, port and pipeline

Locksmiths and turners in the automotive sector

mines

garages

How much does a locksmith and lathe operator earn per year?

An impressive range of technical adjustments, turning and machining jobs and solid experience in the profession will get you a decent annual salary in South Africa.

Currently, the average hourly wage for locksmiths and lathe operators is R104.48. Depending on your skills and experience you can earn between R35 and R184 per hour, in addition to which you may also receive a bonus of between R4,427 and R31,707 calculated for a full year.

As a student or trainee, you are initially only allowed to earn the minimum wage. However, over time you can earn an average of R212,440 per year. The most you can earn in 12 months as a fitter and lathe operator in South Africa is R411,000 which is well above minimum wage.

How to work as a fitter and lathe operator in South Africa

South Africa has a broad market for fitter and lathe operator jobs. There is a great demand for such professionals in numerous industries and sectors. There are several options available to applicants who meet the required qualifications and skills to pursue this career.

Participation in locksmith and lathe operator courses increases the chances of finding a job. You can add the valuable information you receive from them to the practical experience you gain during your training. This gives you a competitive advantage over other applicants for the same position.

Working as a locksmith and lathe operator in South Africa offers you unique opportunities to advance your career and access a high paying salary. With dedication, hard work, and patience, you can become one of the most useful engineers in the country.

What qualifications do I need to become a Locksmith and Turner in South Africa?

What Skills and Skills are Required to Become a Locksmith and Turner?

Good at working with hands.

Must be very mechanical.

Must be able to take accurate measurements and work accurately.

Must be mathematically inclined.

Must be able to concentrate in noisy working conditions.

How much does a locksmith and lathe operator earn in South Africa per month?

The average salary for a fitter and lathe operator in South Africa is R19,058 gross per month (R109 gross per hour), which is 19% below the national average salary in South Africa. Salary range: A locksmith and turner can expect an average starting salary of R10 400. The highest salaries can exceed R 34 330.

How long is the adaptation and turning course in South Africa?

duration and certification

The duration of each level is three months. Therefore, a TRIMESTER schedule is followed, with enrollment occurring in January, April and August, allowing the successful student to earn THREE national certificates over the course of a year.

Where can I learn Fitting and Turning in South Africa?

Study assembly and turning courses remotely at Oxbridge Academy.

National Certificate: N1 Engineering Studies (Fitting and Turning) (SAQA ID 67109)

National Certificate: N2 Engineering Studies (Fitting and Turning) (SAQA ID 67375)

How long does it take to become a Locksmith and Turner in South Africa?

Practical training can last between three and four years. There is also a trading test that you must write in order to get certified. Trade tests are regulated by the Department of Higher Education and Training (DHET) and can be taken at national trade test centers across the country.

What subjects do you need to become a fitter in South Africa?

Subjects covered in this course include Mathematics N2, Engineering N2, Technical Drawing N2 and Assembly and Machining Theory N2. After completing this course you will receive a recognized national certificate.

What does a locksmith & lathe operator do in South Africa?

Assemblers and lathe operators assemble, assemble, grind and form metal parts and assemblies to make production machinery and other equipment. Specializations: Weapons Mechanic (Army).

What role does a wood turner play in South Africa?

Turners are responsible for the manufacture of metal components and their assembly to build tools, industrial machinery, and machine components. They identify potential problems by understanding machine specifications and drawings prior to the production process.

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