Horse Body Clipping Services Near Me? The 135 Top Answers

Everything you need to know about why horses are clipped

There are countless aspects of caring for your horse. As a horse owner, you are responsible for ensuring that your horse is clean, fed, healthy and cared for. An important care task is shearing! While some riders choose to avoid clipping for a number of reasons, I believe this grooming technique has myriad benefits.

Why are horses clipped? Horses naturally get a thick winter coat. While this is very beneficial in the wild, most horses are kept in warm environments during the colder months. With regular exercise, this thick coat can cause your horse to sweat excessively. This sweat, combined with the cooler temperatures, makes it difficult for your horse to regulate its body temperature.

While this is the most common reason horses are clipped, it’s actually not the only reason! Shearing can benefit horses in several other ways, depending on the animal. In this post we will discuss some of the reasons horses are clipped as well as reasons to avoid clipping.

We’ll also share the most common types of horse clippers, as well as some helpful tips on preparing your horse for clipping. Let’s start by looking at the many reasons horse owners choose to clip their horses.

Reasons why horses are clipped

Riders choose to clip their horses for a variety of reasons, from aesthetics to convenience. Here are some of the most common reasons you might consider clipping your horse:

Clipping helps your horse regulate body temperature

The main reason horse owners clip their horses is to help the horse regulate its body temperature. In the autumn months, horses begin to grow a thick winter coat. This thick coat plays an important role in keeping them warm throughout the winter. However, if the horse is regularly active throughout the year, this coat can cause it to sweat excessively.

The combination of sweat and cold air makes it difficult for the horse to regulate its body temperature. By shearing the horse’s thick winter coat, sweat is minimized and the horse can dry off more effectively after exercise.

Clipping minimizes grooming time

While we all enjoy spending time with our horses, grooming is a task that never seems to end. Adding a thick winter coat to the equation increases the time it takes to groom your horse. If your horse stays indoors for most of the winter and is regularly active, clipping is a great way to minimize grooming time.

Clipping promotes shiny summer coats

There is nothing more beautiful than a shiny, healthy summer coat. Much like a haircut encourages human hair to grow, trimming encourages your horse’s coat to grow back shinier than ever in time for summer!

Clipping may be required in horses with Cushing’s disease

Cushing’s disease, or pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction, is an endocrine disorder common in older horses and ponies. One of the most common equine diseases, Cushing’s disease causes coat changes, weight and muscle loss, hormonal imbalance and laminitis, among others.

Some horses with Cushing’s disease are unable to shed their winter coat naturally, necessitating clipping.

Reasons not to clip your horse

While there are many ways that clipping benefits both you and your horse, there are several legitimate reasons to deviate from this grooming practice.

Don’t clip your horse if it spends the winter outside

It goes without saying that a horse’s thick winter coat has a reason! If your horse spends most of the winter months outside, you should not clip the coat. Even with an intact winter coat, you may still need to provide your horse with a winter blanket for extra warmth and protection from the elements.

Older horses may not benefit from clipping

Especially in the cold winter months, older horses often find it more difficult to regulate their body temperature. It is often best not to clip your older horses as they are likely to be less active and more susceptible to the cold than their younger companions.

Do not clip your horse when it is inactive

While many horses are ridden year-round, some are significantly less active during the winter months. If your horse is less active in winter, it is best not to clip the coat. When your horse isn’t sweating regularly, its coat provides excellent protection and warmth.

When should you clip your horse?

Horses begin to grow their winter coats in early fall. For this reason, most horse owners choose to clip their horses for the first time in September or October. It is best to stop clipping your horse no later than February to allow the summer coat to grow sufficiently.

Some horses shown in competitions are clipped year-round to maintain a consistent appearance. Additionally, since these horses generally follow the course in warm climates, clipping helps them stay cool and sweat minimally.

How often do you have to clip a horse?

Between September and December, a horse’s coat grows at an amazing rate. Most horse owners choose to clip their horse every 3 to 4 weeks before Christmas. However, most riders find that they only need to clip their horse two or three times during the winter.

Regardless of how often you clip your horse, it is advisable to stop clipping in February. Clipping your horse later than February is likely to spoil the glossy summer coat you’re hoping for.

Common types of horse sewing patterns

Like human haircuts, there are many types of horse clips. Some horse clips remove all of the winter coat, while more conservative clips only remove areas where your horse will sweat. Let’s take a look at some of the most common sewing patterns.

Full Body Sewing Pattern

Whole body clippers are probably the first thing that comes to mind when you think about clipping your horse. This pattern removes the hair on the coat, legs, head and ears. Full-body clipping ensures a uniform appearance, but is only recommended for horses that are not outdoors during the winter months and are regularly worked.

Hunter Sewing Pattern

Perhaps the second most common sewing pattern is the Hunter clip. This pattern removes most of the fur except under the saddle and the legs. The main benefit of the Hunter clip pattern is that it provides protection from the saddle. By leaving hair on your legs you add extra warmth and protection from the winter elements.

Blanket Sewing Pattern

The blanket clip leaves a blanket of thick fur that extends from the withers to the tip of the tail. Half of the hair on the horse’s head is removed while the hair on the legs is preserved. This pattern works well for horses that stay active in the winter but spend time outdoors when the weather permits.

Chaser sewing pattern

Similar to the blanket clip, the chaser clip is ideal for horses that would benefit from minimized sweating but sometimes need extra warmth. This pattern keeps the hair on the horse’s neck and provides extra warmth for the neck muscles. As with other sewing patterns, the hair on the legs is left to provide warmth and protection.

Track circumcision patterns

The Trace Clip leaves most of the hair on the horse’s head and only removes half of the hair on the neck. This pattern works well for horses that are kept outside during the day but are brought inside during the cold temperatures that often prevail at night.

Irish sewing patterns

The Irish clip is one of the easiest sewing patterns that requires a minimal investment of time. This pattern removes hair from the areas where your horse sweats the most, including the neck and armpits. Some horse owners also choose to trim the hair on the head as well as the hair that extends from the poll to the knee joint.

Sewing pattern bib

The bib clip is the most conservative sewing pattern, removing hair only from the front of the neck and chest. Occasionally, horse owners choose to also remove hair from under the belly to the girth.

Prepare your horse for clipping

Especially if your horse has never been shorn before, you need to invest sufficient time in the preparation. There are several things you must do to prepare your horse for shearing. Care in these areas ensures your horse is safe and healthy while maintaining a smooth, even clip.

Bathe your horse

Before clipping your horse you need to make sure it is clean and dry. Most riders choose to bathe their horse the day before the scheduled clipping to allow adequate drying time. Once your horse is clean and dry, use a tail bandage and tie the mane. This will make sure you don’t accidentally catch them with your clippers.

Prepare your area

It’s always best to clip your horse during a quiet time when there are few distractions. Make sure your shearing area is well lit and protected from the wind. If your horse becomes restless during the clipping process, you should set up a net to entertain and distract him.

Make sure you have everything you need, including a stray hair grooming brush. It is also important to have a clean blanket ready to put on your horse after clipping. Depending on the time of year and the temperature during clipping, you may want to cover one half of your horse while clipping the other half to prevent him from catching a cold.

Prepare your horse

Never try to clip a horse on an empty stomach! Make sure you plan to feed your horse immediately before clipping. It is always recommended that you use chalk to plan your sewing pattern. This not only saves you time but also prevents mistakes, especially if you are new to clipping.

Desensitizing your horse to clipping

If your horse is young or has nervous behavior, you need to work on desensitizing him before you start clipping. There are a few things you can do to help this process including standing next to an older horse while it is being clipped, running your clipper over your horse while it is off and listening to it with the noise and to become familiar with the vibrations of the shearing machine.

Need help desensitizing your horse? Read my article Bombproof and Desensitize a Horse: The Ultimate Guide.

Things to consider before clipping your horse

Before clipping your horse, there are a few things you need to consider. Here are just some of the questions you need to ask yourself:

What is your horse’s winter routine?

How often do you ride your horse in winter? Do they spend most of the day outside or are they kept inside? This will help you decide if and how you should clip your horse! It is best to start with a conservative pattern if you are unsure of how much time your horse will be outdoors. Remember that you can always cut additional areas, but you can never force the hair to grow back faster!

Do I have the right cutting tools?

To successfully clip your horse, you must have the right tools for the job! If you don’t have the necessary tools, you should ask another horse owner to lend you the clipping equipment. If you are unsure about clipping your horse, many professional grooms offer this service.

Finally

Clipping your horse can be an intimidating process, especially for a newer horse owner. You must observe an experienced rider and ask questions before attempting to clip your own horse. If possible, ask a mentor or experienced horse owner to oversee the shearing process during your first attempts.

While it may sound simple, clipping a horse can actually be quite complex! Be patient with yourself and with your horse while you find a system that works well for both of you. Remember that with time, practice and patience you will soon be clipping your horse with ease!

Clipping your horse is just one way you can help him prepare for winter. I have an entire article devoted to sharing winter horse care tips. You can read it here!

I have many horse care items! If you’re looking for more reading material, check out my articles below:

PS Save this to your “Horse Care” board!

Why clip a horse?

Horses tend to develop a thick winter coat once the colder weather sets in. This is ideal for horses who spend a lot of time outdoors with a rug as their winter coat will keep them warm and protected. However, if you work your horse during the winter months, a thick and heavy coat can cause all sorts of problems. A thick winter coat can cause your horse to sweat excessively or overheat, which can easily lead to him catching a cold and not being able to regulate his body temperature.

Horse clipping minimizes sweating, allowing your horse to dry and cool more efficiently. In turn, clipping your horse prevents it from developing a cold and other potentially serious illnesses. If you take good care of your horse’s legs and pasterns, you can prevent diseases such as mud fever, as hair does not stick to the mud. Excessive sweating combined with heavy bridles can also cause discomfort and chafing on your horse’s skin. So clipping your horse ensures that it is comfortable while you work and does not develop serious injuries or illnesses.

However, if you leave your horse outside during the winter it is recommended not to clip them and ensure they have adequate shelter. Although they have a thick winter coat to keep them warm, it might still be a good idea to put a blanket on your horse to protect them from problems like scalding from rain and mud.

When to clip a horse?

Usually the best time to clip a horse is in September or October, once the winter coat has come through. However, there are a number of individual factors that can determine when is the best time to clip your horse. When a horse should be clipped depends on how often you trim it, the breed of horse, and how quickly your horse’s coat grows. For example, if you have a show horse you may want to clip it year round to ensure it stays cool, minimizes sweating and keeps it looking smart.

A horse’s coat usually grows fastest between September and December, so it’s best to clip your horse every 3-4 weeks during this time. Most people stop clipping their horse by the end of January, as this is when most horses begin to grow their summer coats. You should not clip much later than February to avoid damaging your horse’s new, thinner summer coat.

Types of horse clips

The type of clip you choose for your horse depends on how often you want to work it and how you want to keep the horse over the winter. There are many different types and designs of horse clips to choose from – some people like to get creative and create fun patterns, while others prefer a simple look. For those who want to stick with the classic there are a number of traditional clip styles including the full clip, hunter clip, blanket clip, chaser clip, trace clip, Irish clip and bib clip.

Full Clip – The full coat is clipped, including the legs, head and ears. Full clipping should only be used for horses in hard competition work that will continue to be worked throughout the winter.

Hunter Clip – Most of the coat is clipped except for the saddle area and legs. The Hunter clip protects your horse from the saddle and the longer leg hair provides extra warmth and protection from the elements.

Blanket Clip – Half of the head hair is clipped, but the leg hair is left along with a blanket of fur from the withers to the tail. The blanket clip provides warmth without excessive sweating making it ideal for a horse that works at an intermediate level but is mated during the day when the weather is suitable.

Chaser Clip – Similar to the blanket clip but the hair is left at the top of the neck to add some warmth to the neck muscles. The legs are also left and offer additional warmth and protection. Like the blanket, the Chaser brace is great for a medium work horse as it provides some extra warmth without causing excessive sweating.

Trace Clip – Similar to the Chaser Clip, but most of the hair is left on the head and only half of the neck is clipped. Again, the legs are left to provide warmth and protection. The Trace clip removes hair where excessive sweating is common, yet still provides warmth making it perfect for medium work horses that are driven out during the day.

Irish Clip – Clips the hair around the neck and armpits where your horse sweats the most. The whole head can be removed and you can clip from the neck to the knee joint. Hindquarters, hind legs and front legs remain. Irish clipping works well for younger horses or those with light work that are stripped during the day.

Bib Clip – Hair is clipped from the front of the neck and chest, and occasionally the lower abdomen to the point of girth. The bib clip is ideal for horses with very light work and is removed during the winter months.

Clipping preparation

Before you begin clipping your horse, it is important to ensure that you are properly prepared for the task ahead. The first thing to check is that your clippers are working properly – look at the cords, blades and voltage before you cut. Every hair clipper has different voltage modes, so it’s important to always read the owner’s manual carefully to verify you have the correct settings.

Your clipper blades should be sharp and clean. Dull blades can make clipping incredibly difficult, slow and uncomfortable for the horse. To ensure your clipper and blades are clean throughout the process, it’s a good idea to have some clipper oil and a brush on hand to clean them while clipping. It is also advisable to sufficiently oil your clippers and blades before you begin.

Not only do you have to prepare your equipment for clipping, but also your horse. You should make sure your horse is clean and dry – it’s always a good idea to bathe your horse the day before clipping. Feeding your horse just before clipping is also effective in keeping it calm, making it safer and easier for you to clip. To further calm your horse during the clipping process, you can even tie a net to keep them entertained.

You also need to make sure you have a safe place to clip your horse. It’s usually best to tinkle in a well-lit stall or somewhere that’s well sheltered from the wind and covered when it rains. To minimize the risk of mistakes, you can mark the clip with chalk and easily follow the outline. To reduce the chance of accidentally catching the horse’s mane or tail, it’s a good idea to use a tail wrap and tie the mane back. Finally, once the trim is complete, you need to make sure you have the right equipment to keep your horse as comfortable as possible. You should have a clean blanket ready to put on your horse to keep it from catching a cold.

How to clip a horse

Once you have chosen a suitable type of clip for your horse, you can start clipping. Clipping is a skill and takes a lot of time and practice. When clipping your horse for the first time, it may be best to start on a calm horse with a simple clip, such as a clip. B. a bib or chaser shearing.

The first thing you want to do is use some chalk to mark where you are going to cut. This way it’s easier to get the style you want and minimizes the risk of mistakes. Turn on your clipper away from your horse and approach him/her slowly and calmly so as not to startle him. It is best to start at the shoulder, the area where it is least sensitive. Begin clipping your horse using long, overlapping strokes against the direction of hair growth. With your free hand, pull the horse’s fur tight so the clipper moves smoothly over the horse’s body. Do not attempt to cut folds or wrinkled skin as this may cause injury. When clipping around sensitive or bony areas of the horse, it’s best to have someone help you by pulling the front leg forward so you can reach it more easily. When you’re done trimming, use a brush to remove any loose hair.

YUP! Absolutely!

Shear horses don’t just have to be kept over the winter months. Some types of horses and ponies can seriously benefit from being clipped year-round, especially if they tend to get thick, heavy coats in the winter.

During a hot summer, the heavier horses need all the help they can get to keep cool, and being fully shorn can often make them feel more comfortable, work better, and make it much quicker and easier to wash away sweat and dirt.

Heavier breeds also tend to grow very thick feathers, which in turn can benefit from being clipped for both comfort, show and medicinal reasons.

Mites are a lot of trouble for the heavy breeds and love to burrow into the skin underneath all the leg hair causing irritation and irritation and in some cases hypersensitivity making clipping and trimming difficult. However, this is the best measure to treat this condition and the less hair left on the legs, the better and easier the treatment will be as well.

Competitive horses can also benefit from clipping, even if they have finer coats, giving them maximum help in performance and post-competition recovery. This is becoming commonplace in the show jumping, eventing and endurance circuits and can be extremely beneficial in aiding rapid cool down and recovery.

Whether you clip in the summer or winter, you are compromising the horse’s natural coat and protection from the elements. Adequate protection against biting flies in summer and the sun should be ensured. Be it through the provision of fly/summer sheets for the run or the availability of stables or accommodation.

For summer clipping, it is advisable to use a medium-fine blade rather than a fine one, especially on pink-skinned animals, as they are more prone to sunburn on exposed skin.

If clipping during the summer months, make sure you clip in a cool, covered area so the horse doesn’t get irritated by the sun or flies while you clip.

As the weather is usually more favorable in summer, wash the horse completely the day before clipping. This gives you a really good finish and the blades cut through the fur that much easier.

Use a shower gel after clipping – this gives the coat a quick refreshment and removes any oily residue left in the coat from clipping.

As with winter pruning, ensure blades are properly tensioned at least every 10 minutes, or even more frequently, to minimize blade heating and oil.

Keep a set of spare blades to switch to when cutting the head or other sensitive areas to ensure they are completely cool.

Be very careful when clipping in the belt area as the skin here is sensitive and can be easily irritated.

The same applies to the area where spores are used. Leaving a small square area right where the spur touches the horse gives you more protection.

Did you shave in the summer? What’s your best tip?

Praise your horse. Because the happier he is, the easier it will be to trim him next time.

Remove loose hair from your horse’s coat as this can cause itching. The best way to do this is to bathe your horse. If this isn’t possible because it’s too cold, just swab it down with a bucket of warm water. Add some HibiScrub to the water – this will remove any surface dirt and loose hair. Alternatively, you can groom him with a soft brush to remove any fine hair left over from clipping and to smooth down the coat. A good grooming session and thorough brushing are essential if you want to have a clean carpet, as the fine hairs and grease loosened after tacking will end up on your nice, clean carpet!

Some like a coat conditioner after grooming to add shine to the newly shaved hair.

Make sure your horse is warm enough, so dress accordingly. Remember, the more hair that is removed, the more blankets your horse will need. Most horses with body braces of one design or another need to be sturdy and may even require neck covers.

Clean the clippers. Unscrew the top and set it aside with the spring and metal clip holding the blades in place. Carefully lift off the blades, being careful not to drop them. Brush any build-up of hair off both the clippers and the blades. Wipe the surfaces with a clean cloth. Then oil the clippers and blades and put them neatly back in their case. Store them in a dry place to prevent them from rusting.

In the days after shearing, it is important to take good care of the coat and skin. This can be done by using different products such as B. moisturizing sprays, circulation-promoting care, etc. happen. If a clipped coat is well cared for from the start, the new coat that grows back will also benefit from it. A shiny coat also helps reduce the risk of skin irritation.

No matter how much or how little hair is removed, a clipped horse still needs regular grooming, especially before and after each ride. It’s also still important to wipe away sweat as it can dry out the skin.

Often a clipped horse is livelier, so consider temporarily reducing the hard feed if this is the case.

When training a clipped horse it may be necessary to use a training towel to protect not only from the cold but also from wind and rain.

And finally… clean the area of ​​the yard you clipped so it’s ready for the next horse!

To shop our wide range of clippers, blades and accessories click on the image below.

It’s often difficult to give a thick winter coat a great finish, and especially for competitions it’s best to either trim or partially trim the coat. Not only does this ensure a sleek, sleek look, but it’s also easier to wash and dry after training and competitions.

For a first clip or a very hairy horse, we recommend using a medium-heavy blade. This penetrates the fur more easily and leaves a clean finish. If you do a second clip or the fur is soft and fine, choose a fine blade that you trim a little tighter and regrowth will also be a little slower.

TOP TIP: Before cutting, make sure the hair is clean and dry. The less fat in the fur, the easier it is for the blades to cut through and the better the finish. With a greasy coat you will get very noticeable tooth marks where the teeth struggled to cut through the fat. A clean coat of paint will only give you a very smooth finish with no obvious stains.

Oil regularly when shearing, this prolongs the life of the blades and ensures that the blades cut as coolly as possible. Before clipping, spray a grooming spray on the coat to help the blades glide through the hair. After clipping, brush the coat thoroughly with a soft Borstiq brush before rinsing with a hot cloth to remove excess grease or dirt.

Products to recommend:

Clippersharp Clipping Oil – An antibacterial fine mineral clipping oil with lavender essential oil formulated for optimal performance without reacting to sensitive skin. Suitable for all brands of clippers and blades. Available in two sizes: 250ml £6.00 500ml £9.00

Gloss n Go by Smart Grooming – A fabulous high quality coat, mane and tail grooming spray to use on coat types all year round. This winning formula is great for spraying onto hair before clipping to give the blades extra glide. £9.95 500ml Trigger Spray

Borstiq Brushes – range of high quality Swedish grooming brushes. Fabulous brushes for a professional finish. Unlike any other on the market! From £9.95

I noticed that my Arabian mare was missing a tuft of hair under her mane at the beginning of summer. Since then the stain has gotten bigger. What is causing this? How can I treat it?

Hair loss in horses can be caused by something as simple as: B. environment and temperature, or it can be caused by a contagious skin disease such. B. ringworm (fungus) invading the hair follicles of the skin; dermatophilosis, a superficial bacterial skin disease; or be the result of scratching due to an allergic skin reaction, usually due to insect bites.

There are three stages of hair growth in horses. Anyone who has closely clipped their horse during the winter months, or clipped the hair around a wound, has noticed that the hair has a growing phase (anagen), a resting phase (telogen), and a period when the horse sheds when new hair arrive. In general, it takes three to six weeks for hair to grow back after it is lost, although this time varies between individuals and is dependent on genetics. Horses shed their hair seasonally as a result of changes in the length of daylight. Adjacent hair follicles are usually at different stages of the growth cycle, so there is no obvious hair loss or bald patches. You are used to cycles like this, but what happens if your horse suddenly has a completely bald spot?

If the area of ​​hair loss is under the mane, it may be for an innocuous reason that many horses are exposed to in the summer. Excessive sweating during hot or hot and humid seasons occurs where heat is trapped under the mane. Sweat is absorbed by the keratin layer of the epidermis and the hair follicles stay moist for the duration of the hot weather. This moisture causes the hair follicle to soften and release the hair.

The high levels of protein and salt in horse sweat can also dry out and cause irritation upon contact with the horse’s skin, which can also lead to hair loss. Dried sweat and dirt, with or without the added pressure of bug bites, can cause itching. Subsequent rubbing of the area by the horse can rub out hair stains.

Hair loss due to heat and sweat is also commonly seen on horses’ faces, around the eyes and ears. This pattern of shedding is often the result of some horses’ reluctance to have their face washed during a bath or after hard work. Sweat and dirt build up, driving hair loss, and the horse looks like it’s wearing gray glasses.

Proper management, careful grooming, and washing the horse weekly with a mild, non-irritating shampoo can help prevent shedding from the above reasons. Nevertheless, there are many horses that shine with regular care, but still lose parts of their hair. While the owner will do their best to prevent shedding, they may have to accept it as normal for the horse. Horses with long manes for show purposes, like the Arabian mentioned in the question, might do well with their French braided manes to avoid trapping heat at the neck. Small individual braids break the hair, but a French braid right at the nape of the neck, renewed every few days, keeps long manes intact.

Other, more serious hair loss can result from dermatophyte infections. If crusting is associated with hair loss (along the leading edge of the bald area), the horse may have a dermatophyte infection (ringworm). Before purchasing and using medication for this condition, you should make sure that ringworm is actually the cause of the hair loss. Your vet will pluck some hairs from the leading edge of a lesion and culture the hairs on special Dermatophyte Test Media (DTM). The procedure is inexpensive and ensures appropriate therapy.

There are a number of topical antifungal medications that can be used in the treatment of tinea that are available over the counter at your local drug store or pharmacy. Your veterinarian may prescribe medicated shampoos or conditioners, especially if the lesions are widespread. Home remedies, such as bleach, are not recommended because they can dry out and burn the skin.

When ringworm is established, treatment failure can occur when topical antifungal ointments sit on the skin and surrounding hair and fail to reach the hair follicle where it is needed. A soft toothbrush for small discrete lesions or a larger soft brush can be used to gently brush the medication onto the skin to ensure the medication reaches the hairline. Here are the steps to effectively treat a fungal disease:

Wash the area with a mild commercial horse shampoo with no additives that may irritate the skin.

Dry the area with a clean towel.

Apply the medication to the affected area with the soft brush, making sure that the medication does not just “sit” on the hair.

Use separate grooming equipment for the affected horse, as grooming implements can spread infection from one horse to another.

Most importantly, talk to your vet about the condition and avoid home remedies.

Dermatophilosis, a superficial bacterial skin infection, can also occur in humid conditions. The lesions initially appear as small scabs that leave a bald spot when removed. The hair is trapped within the crust and sticks through the bottom of the crust, resulting in a brush-like appearance. If left untreated, the affected areas may enlarge, grow together, and, when the scabs fall off, be hairless. Dermatophilosis is treated by thorough grooming with dedicated clean equipment (it can also be spread through grooming equipment) and medicated shampoos.

You should determine if your horse is scratching the affected area. Insect bites and the itching that follows can lead to hair loss due to self-harm. If hair loss persists or spreads to larger areas, you should consult your veterinarian for a definitive diagnosis and treatment.

Susan L. White, DVM, MS, DACIVM, is a professor in the College of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Georgia.

Reviewed and updated by the original author in 2016.

Choosing the Right Blades

Every horse is different, from the thickness of their hair to the color of their hair to the amount of exercise they do. This means that some clippers are less suitable for some skins than others. Choosing which clipper blades can be a tough decision, so why not check out our blog on Your Guide To Blades?

Be sure to consider the right quality of iron to use, especially if your horse is a gray or gray horse. Using the wrong blade on these coats can create lines, resulting in a streaky finish. For this we recommend our A2/AC (Medium) Blades, which are perfect for the job!

If you are clipping a horse with a finer coat, you should look for finely graduated blades, for example our A2C/AC (Close) blades. This gives the hair more time to grow between clips and works best with a tight cut.

Prepare yourself

If you are looking for the perfect finish, you should approach your neckline well prepared. Before doing so, make sure your clippers are in good working order, check for damage and if you find any, have it checked by a local repair specialist.

Check that your blades are in good condition and sharp. Using dull blades will leave lines in the cut as you pull your horse’s hair. Send them off for sharpening every few clips.

Remember that proper care of your blades can extend their life and this consists of cleaning your blades, oiling your blades and storing your blades properly.

Before clipping, we recommend that you clean your horse overnight before helping to remove any dust, dirt or debris that has settled on your horse’s coat. A dirty pelt will dull your blades and show lines in the pelt. Clean as thoroughly as possible with any suitable brush. For this we recommend using a rubber curry brush, which is great for removing dirt, dust and debris from under the coat’s surface. We also offer a range of Wahl shampoos to suit a variety of different coat types.

To remove the fat from your horse’s coat you can use several methods, one of which is hot clothing. Hot clothes, also known as hot terry cloth, effortlessly removes grease with a hot towel and is a great pre and post clipping technique. Read our hot clothes blog.

Tension your clippers

There’s a lot of power put into our clippers to ensure you get the perfect clip every time, which is why it takes the right tension to keep your blades and clipper working together smoothly. Insufficient tension can cause your clippers to rattle, so be aware and adjust if necessary. Not tensioning your clippers enough will also result in poor clipping performance and you run the risk of clogging your blades.

To properly tension your Lister hair clippers, screw the tensioning nut down by hand as far as it will go. Using the mark on the tension nut as a guide, back off the tension nut 1 ½ turns to set the tension. Read our blog “Why we cock our clippers”.

your cutting style

Cut with confidence and start with a wide area to cut so you can find your rhythm. Go for hair loss with the clippers in one hand while applying tension to the skin and flattening the skin with the other hand. This allows the hair clipper to be driven over without any problems.

If you want to avoid wrinkles in the coat, especially on horses with lighter skin, try to overlap each clipped area by about 2cm.

The finishing touch

Sometimes it is difficult to get into these awkward areas of your horse with the clippers. That’s why it’s handy to have a trimmer on standby just in case! Because they are slim and light, they make it easier to access these areas.

Our trimmers are equipped with chrome-plated, diamond-ground stainless steel blades that allow for absolute precision.

Choice Adore

The Adore is a versatile trimmer! The battery lasts 100 minutes, which means you can go to the yard or go to shows for a day without worry. You can see the charge status because it is equipped with a battery charge status LED. It’s also completely wireless…

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Adela Pro

The Adelar Pro is ideal for those who want both power and time! It packs a lot into its ergonomic design, equipped with a powerful, solid DC motor to enable ultimate cutting performance. Its latest lithium-ion technology is in two power battery packs, each with a running time of 120 minutes and a full quick charge within 75 minutes.

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The Pico

The Pico is Lister’s smallest and quietest trimmer and is perfect for those sensitive areas like around the eyes or under the jaw. It’s a must-have for your gear bag and doesn’t take up much space as it’s only hand-sized! You’ll find it useful for last-minute touch-ups along the way, and it’s a great way to get your horse used to a clipper when he’s shy.

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Lister Ambassadors Expert Advice –

We asked our Lister Pro Ambassadors what they do to ensure their every clip is perfect. Here’s what they had to say:

RS horses –

Bekki is an active member of #ListerPro and the proud owner of RS Equine in Northumberland. Bekki has a passion for horses and makes sure every horse she shears looks its best. We asked her how she makes sure her horses look amazing after every clip.

What are your top 3 tips for making sure every one of your clips is perfect?

A good bath, hot towel, or sweaty groomer (of the groomer, not the horse). Make sure the blades are sharp and the clippers are properly tensioned. A good even pressure when clipping and overlapping the lines!

What are you doing to finish the clip?

Finally I clean up all the lines with the Wahl Adore upside down on a low setting, it makes them super straight! A good brush to get rid of any hair and then a hot towel to keep it looking shiny.

Alan King Racing

Avoid trimming your horse’s muzzle until he is comfortable. Amy K. Dragoo/AIMMEDIA

The day before

Purchase clipper blades (read the instructions that come with your clipper to determine the right blade for the job). It’s cheaper to have your clippers sharpened, but it can take several weeks.

You will need larger body scissors for the body and smaller scissors for the face. If you use different hair clippers, make sure that the cutting lengths of the hair are the same, especially for the face.

Bathe your horse if the weather permits. If it is too cold, take good care of it or clean it selectively. If you clip on a warm day, you may be able to bathe the same day you clip, but be sure to wait until the horse is completely dry before clipping.

Find or buy a stool without a top handle. You want to be able to free yourself quickly without getting your foot caught.

Find or buy a halter with a leather strap and a snap to release the throatlash, or use a grooming halter without a throatlash. You must be able to access this area in order to cut it.

day of

Create a tidy environment in a low-traffic area. You want your area to be free of objects that you or your horse might encounter if startled. Low-traffic areas also help reduce stress for your horse.

Organize a flat area nearby to display your clipping tools: body scissors, small clippers or trimmers, bowl of rubbing alcohol, rubbing alcohol, soft brush, two towels, orange extension cord, and clipper oil (clipper manufacturers often sell clipper oil. In a pinch I used baby oil. I do not recommend motor oil – remember this oil will come into contact with your horse’s skin and may cause irritation.)

Put dogs in the office or in the tack room to avoid getting close to your horse’s legs.

Do you have someone to help you.

Plan at least two hours for a body clip.

Keep in mind

Be patient – most horses find the vibration of the clippers tickling and the noise frightening at times.

Allow enough time for cutting.

Support the weight of the clippers – do not press down hard. Most people apply too much pressure when learning to cut.

Pay attention to the corners of the shear blades. You could accidentally cut more hair than you want. These corners can also accidentally bump your horse.

Always cut against the direction of the hair. The vertebrae are the hardest.

Mix up when using different types of hair clippers to avoid choppy lines.

Do not tie or cross-tie your horse if he has a tendency to pull back. This type of horse needs to be held tight throughout the clipping process.

where to start cutting How do I test my horse?

When preparing to clip a horse I don’t know, I always make sure I’m working in a tidy area and have someone to hold the horse. I turn on the clippers a few feet from the horse and watch his reaction. If he flinches at the sound and moves away, I know he’s becoming more sensitive and it’s going to take longer to pinch him.

With a horse that is scared, I can walk around and pet the horse with the clipper in hand but turned off, then come back and pet it again in the same places but with the clipper running this time in my other hand. Use your best judgment for horses that are scared. You may not be able to create a full body clip initially.

I always start cutting at the bottom of the deltoid. I avoid clipping the face, elbow area, legs and stomach area until I feel the horse is comfortable. Depending on the horse, I completely shave one side, then the other. On some horses I switch sides and areas to keep the horse relaxed and comfortable.

Watch The Clippers

Dull blades create more lines, make your clipper blade motor run hotter, force you to press down harder, and cause you to cut areas multiple times. A dirty horse will dull your blades faster and make the clipper motor run hotter. To keep your clippers running smoothly:

Clean the blades frequently by soaking them in rubbing alcohol.

Keep the motor and blades well oiled.

Continuously brush excess hair off the blades.

If the blades feel hot, you need to take a break. Hot blades are uncomfortable for your horse and create more lines.

After cleaning the blades by soaking them in alcohol, apply oil in the designated holes for the clipper motor and along the base of the clipper blade to reduce friction. Use a towel to wipe off excess oil to reduce skin irritation for your horse.

eliminate lines

Lines can ruin an otherwise good clip. They can be caused by uneven pressure, a dirty horse, using different clippers with different blade lengths that don’t directly work against hair growth, and dull blades.

You can get rid of lines by trimming the area again, making sure to go against the direction of hair growth. If you need to get rid of a hard line, try drawing your neckline across that line (like creating the letter “X”), then your final swipe will go straight against the hair growth. Wipe the line with a damp cloth.

Tips for cleaning your horse

If it’s too cold to bathe your horse, ruffle it very well to bring excess dirt and dander to the surface. Take a warm towel and wipe off the excess dirt. Clean heavily soiled areas with warm water. Use a horse vacuum to remove excess dirt near the hairline.

The dirtiest spots we don’t think of are the top of the horse’s hindquarters and the horse’s forehead. These areas usually develop thicker flakes of skin and are harder to shave.

Observe your horse’s behavior

Be patient. Body clipping and trimming can be stressful for your horse. Most don’t like the sound and are ticklish. This is especially true for a horse that has never been clipped before.

Give your horse a (bath) break. Sometimes when clipping, an hour can go by quickly and your horse may move because it needs to go to relieve itself and not because of bad behavior.

If your horse has sensitive legs, you may need to trim the legs in sections. Cut off part of the body, move to the legs, repeat.

Find the good spot. There is probably a spot where your horse likes to be clipped. Finding this spot can come in handy later if your horse gets restless. You can fasten at this point to calm and relax him.

A horse will usually raise its head or flick its tail to protest that it is cutting a specific spot before becoming more aggressive. Be careful and stay alert, especially near the front legs where a horse can kick forward or the hind legs where it can kick.

Horses are most ticklish on the abdomen near the knee joint, elbows, legs, inside of hind legs and ears and surrounding area. When working on these areas, use extra caution as a horse may startle or even kick out.

when to cut

Clip your horse to avoid excessive sweating, which can occur during winter, spring, and fall.

If you don’t plan on showing, you can give your horse a bib clip, or a high or low lapel clip instead of a full body clip.

For winter school shows, most horses can use a hunter’s clip. If your horse has very shaggy legs, you may need to do a full body clip or thin out the hair on his legs.

To prepare your horse for Hunter competition for the regular show season, you will likely need to do a full body clip. Some horses shed well while others take too much time and need clipping.

Bays and Palominos: These colors can be muted after trimming until around April, when summer coats come into play.

During the winter months there is a lot more static electricity. While clipping you can shock your horse. To reduce static, wipe over newly shaved areas with a warm, damp towel, but be careful not to over-wet the hair or you will not be able to continue trimming until it is completely dry.

Gretchen Canova Gabor has always had horses in her life. From a young age she braided at shows and got tips from show grooms. When she was 13, she rode Silver Star to the small pony championship at what was then the AHSA Pony Finals. She has been involved with Goucher College’s equestrian program since 1995 and was Associate Principal from 1998-2002. She left to complete her bachelor’s degree and begin a master’s degree in elementary and special education. She continues to help Goucher with pointing and braiding.

Body clipping can be a useful tool for horse owners. Read on to find out why.

Many horse lovers may not be aware that body clipping can serve purposes other than just aesthetics. In this Michigan State University Extension article, we will explore a variety of uses for horse clipping and learn many tricks to improve your overall clipping performance and the end product.

Horses may be clipped for a variety of reasons, but the most common is related to health and comfort reasons. One such health condition that causes horses to be clipped is Cushing’s, a disease that can cause a horse to fail to shed its winter coat properly. Clipping a horse suffering from Cushing’s disease, even partially clipping, allows a horse to better regulate its body temperature during the summer and winter months.

Additionally, you can track clip a horse during the winter months to better disperse heat while you work. With a trace clip, only part of the horse’s body is trimmed. This reduces the sweat produced during work as well as the time it takes for a horse to cool off and dry off after work. There are many different types of trace clips to choose from, each serving a slightly different purpose.

You can perform a full body clip on horses during the summer months. This provides a clean, tidy appearance and can help with show prep by reducing wash time. Before you start clipping, remember that a horse from clipping will not be ready overnight. After cutting, wait at least two weeks for the hair to settle and grow out for best results.

A basic list of accessories for clipping a horse includes body clippers, blade cleaners and coolants, a set of rechargeable clippers, towels, tinder, grooming kit, sidewalk chalk, and a variety of brushes. Body clippers are heavier hair clippers compared to those used to clean whiskers and ears. You should also have a set of quiet, rechargeable clippers to get into tiny spaces and do some clean-up work.

A standard body clip is performed with a #10 blade, and you should have at least three blades on hand. Blade cleaning materials include blade wash and blade coolant. Things that aren’t strictly necessary but can be really useful to have on hand are a Twitch, grooming products like Showsheen, towels, and an unexpected tool: sidewalk chalk.

The very first step for the best clip starts with bathing the horse. Make sure dirt, mud and excess loose hair are removed from the horse. Shear blades will dull faster with dirt and grime and will not leave a smooth finish when there is dirt in the undercoat. After bathing and drying, curry the horse thoroughly to bring out any loose hair. Finish with a grooming spray and work it in with a stiff dandy brush. Keep this brush handy to take care of as you cut.

When creating a trace clip, it’s helpful to give yourself guidelines to follow. This is where the sidewalk chalk comes in; it works great for this purpose. Choose a color of chalk that shows on your horse and dampen the chalk to draw lines where the edge of your clip will be. If you mess up, just wipe away and start over.

After preparing the horse, start at the shoulder where the horse can see you. Turn on the clipper and make sure the horse is comfortable with the sound and feel of the clipper. Patience is key – you have a long road ahead of you. Using light pressure, cut against the growth of the hair and let the blade cut the hair. Do not force the blade through the hair or lines will appear.

As you cut, you may notice very faint, tiny lines coming from your clippers. These fine lines are normal. Lines that are 1/8 inch apart with noticeably longer hair than the rest are not normal. If this happens, clean your blade by pouring a pool of blade cleaner into a small container and running the blade in the liquid. If this doesn’t solve your problem, there’s a good chance you’ll need to swap out your blade for a new one. It is perfectly normal to use two to three blades on a horse, especially if they have been resharpened.

Once you’ve cropped your preferred lane or the whole body, you can move on to the legs. Legs have hair that is significantly coarser than body hair. If you have a horse with excessive leg hair, trim it back with scissors before clipping. This saves time and wear and tear on your expensive shearing blades. Make sure you cut the legs from every possible angle. If needed, have a friend lift one leg so you can reach each point on the opposite leg.

The last piece to cut off, and the most important part, is the head. Every time you make a horse head, have a fresh blade and take your time. Start where your horse is most comfortable and save the hardest parts, usually the ears, for last. If your horse is incredibly unhappy with his ears, muzzle or eyes, you can twitch him quietly for a limited time and work quickly. It is important to make this a good experience for the horse so that future clippings will not be difficult.

There are a few important things to keep in mind when clipping. First, make sure to brush and dry your horse. You should be trimming every inch, so brushing away the excess hair will give you a clearer view of which hairs still need trimming. Touching up at a later date is always an option, but it’s best to avoid it. Also keep an eye on the temperature of your blades. If they feel warm, spray coolant or replace the blade. Sometimes horses start dancing or move away from the clipper – they might say the blade is too hot.

Your final step in clipping your horse is another bath. The tiny hairs that result from the cutting are incredibly itchy. Make sure they are all removed from your horse and give them a good condition to rehydrate the open hair follicles. Cover your horse with a thick woolen blanket to dry and give him some hay to eat. Watch closely how your horse reacts to the weather over the next few days as without their long coat they may need an extra blanket or sheet.

Clipping can not only be useful, but also lead to a career or extra income. Visit the Michigan 4-H Horse Program Facebook page for an interview with Gabrielle Dingell, professional body clipper and co-author of this article.