Horse Mane And Tail Brush? Trust The Answer

Photo above by Kate Houlihan Photography

Do you brush your horse regularly? Here are some of the benefits and best tools to use.

Why you should groom your horse

When it comes to grooming your horse, regular grooming should be an important part of your routine to ensure his coat is healthy.

You may have noticed that grooming each other can be a common behavior when horses are playing together. This is because caring for both horses (and you – their owner!) is mutually beneficial and can bring mutual happiness and comfort to both.

In this article, we’ve shared the top benefits your horse can experience from being groomed and a selection of useful tips that can help make the routine enjoyable for both you and your pet.

Benefits of horse care

When horses are brushed, blood flow is driven to the skin’s surface, which helps it become healthier. Besides the obvious benefit of being cleaner, grooming your horse can offer many other benefits. These include:

comfort and binding

Grooming your horse helps create a bond between you and the animal. Once this bond is established, you may find it easier to interact with your horse. For this reason, a grooming session is recommended for new owners to get to know their new pet before beginning riding or training.

Grooming is also comforting to a horse and that’s why they’ve been known to groom each other when they’re playing in a paddock or out in the wild.

Checking for health problems

Because grooming requires you to get up close and personal with your horse without scaring them away, it’s a great opportunity to check for any health issues they may have.

Many health problems in horses can have symptoms that can be seen on the skin. Injuries they may have sustained in their paddock can also be discovered during their daily grooming routine.

Remember to get horse insurance to protect you and your pet from any health issues you may discover if they need medical attention.

prevent irritation

When dirt and other materials become lodged in a horse’s coat, it can cause irritation and develop into a skin condition. Regular grooming will help remove this dirt and reduce the likelihood of your horse becoming itchy and damaging his skin.

How often should my horse be groomed?

Horses should be groomed at least once a day, even if they are mainly kept in a stable. However, functions like hoof picking do not need to be performed every day and should be performed every few days.

Useful grooming tools

While there are many different tools that you can experiment with during your horse’s grooming routine until you find a selection that is comfortable for both you and your pet, the following tools are recommended:

• Hoof Pick – used to remove dirt, debris and other objects that may become lodged in the hoof.

• Body brush – to remove excess hair and dirt from the horse’s body.

• Curry comb – for removing dirt stuck to the horse’s skin.

As you can see, grooming your horse is an important step in their grooming routine and can bring them many benefits. Now it’s up to you to develop a routine that both you and your horse can enjoy and bond!

When you start riding, whether occasionally or for shows, you will be introduced to the task of caring for horses. This is the grooming routine every rider should follow to regularly inspect and clean their horse to ensure they are happy and healthy.

Grooming is something of a rite of passage for new riders as you learn why it’s important to take care of your horse’s well-being and hygiene. It also plays a big role when you are preparing them for events as you want them to feel relaxed and look their best.

However, as a beginner it can be difficult to know where to start when it comes to horse care. In this guide we explore the benefits of grooming before helping you put together your grooming kit and taking you step by step through grooming a horse. We also provide tips on washing and grooming a horse for a show.

Why groom a horse?

Grooming your horse regularly is an essential part of horse care. It is an opportunity for you to bond with your horse and make sure they are healthy, happy and ready for a riding lesson. The reasons for grooming a horse don’t end there, however, as you will see from the benefits we have listed below.

Reasons for caring for a horse

Grooming comes naturally to horses: when horses live outside in a herd, they naturally groom each other, but indoor animals don’t see this benefit. Therefore, you will be replicating an essential process for your horse and probably doing an even better job.

When horses are outside in a herd situation, they groom themselves naturally, but indoor animals do not see this benefit. Therefore, you will be replicating an essential process for your horse and probably doing an even better job. IMPROVES SKIN AND COAT HEALTH By brushing your horse while grooming, you stimulate blood flow to the skin, which helps keep the skin in good condition. They also encourage the release of essential oils that result in a shiny coat. In addition, you massage large muscle groups to keep them relaxed and supple.

By brushing your horse while grooming, you stimulate blood flow to the skin, which helps keep the skin in good condition. They also encourage the release of essential oils that result in a shiny coat. In addition, you massage large muscle groups to keep them relaxed and supple. Reduces Likelihood of Skin Problems: By cleaning your horse’s coat and hooves regularly, you’ll help him avoid health problems like thrush, rain rot and scratches.

By cleaning your horse’s coat and hooves regularly, you’ll help him avoid health problems like thrush, rain rot and scratches. Ensures there is no chafing under the bridle: Grooming your horse before riding ensures that its coat is clean, which in turn reduces the likelihood of chafing when you put the bridle on and head out. This means your riding session will be nice and comfortable.

Grooming your horse before riding will ensure his coat is clean, which in turn reduces the chance of chafing when you put the bridle on and head out. This means your riding session will be nice and comfortable. Allows the rider to spot the first signs of serious health issues: By regularly dedicating time to grooming your horse, you are more likely to spot potentially serious health issues or injuries before they become a bigger problem. You can then seek veterinary care as long as the condition is easily treatable.

By regularly devoting time to grooming your horse, you are more likely to spot potentially serious health problems or injuries before they become a bigger problem. You can then seek veterinary care as long as the condition is easily treatable. Strengthens the bond between horse and rider: For a herd, grooming is a social activity in which the horses take care of each other. By doing it yourself, you will begin to develop a real sense of trust between you and your horse as they are comfortable in your presence. This also has benefits for your riding as your horse will gradually become more responsive to your instructions.

For a herd, grooming is a social action in which the horses take care of each other. By doing it yourself, you will begin to develop a real sense of trust between you and your horse as they are comfortable in your presence. This also has benefits for your riding as your horse will gradually become more responsive to your instructions. Improves their mood and well-being: Like humans, horses are emotional animals, and a grooming session can help them relax and feel happier. A cheerful horse always rides better than one that is scared or stressed.

Like humans, horses are emotional animals, and a grooming session can help them relax and feel happier. A cheerful horse always rides better than one that is scared or stressed. It’s an opportunity to go through some exercises: Depending on your schedule, you may not have time to ride every day. However, a time-efficient grooming session can give you the opportunity to practice standing floor exercises with your horse, such as

Depending on your schedule, you may not have time to ride every day. However, a time-efficient grooming session can give you the opportunity to practice standing floor exercises with your horse, such as It’s Good Exercise for You: While grooming has many benefits for your horse, it also provides healthy exercise for you. Brushing every inch of a horse’s coat can take a little effort, so you’ll get a nice boost in health and fitness too.

How often should you groom a horse?

Many people want to groom their horse at least once a week, which is usually enough to keep them happy and healthy, or before each ride to ensure their horse is relaxed and comfortable before heading out. However, there is no exact answer to how often you need grooming, and you may get different answers depending on who you ask. How often you groom your horse can also be affected by considerations such as your own schedule and how you keep your horse.

On the other hand, if your horse lives outside in a herd environment where he can roll on the ground, graze trees, and benefit from mutual grooming from other horses, you may find that you only need to tend to them before a ride. In this scenario, you may only need to pay the most attention to the areas where the bridle sits on the horse to ensure it is comfortable.

It’s also important not to over-groom your horse, especially during the winter when he is unshorn and spends a lot of time outdoors, as this can strip his coat of natural oils and reduce its waterproofing ability. This can put them at greater risk if they are not hardy and spend time outdoors.

What do you need in a horse grooming kit?

You need to make sure you have the right horse grooming kit to ensure your horse is well cared for. Each tool is designed for a specific purpose, so it’s important to know what it is so you can use it properly. The result is a well-groomed horse that is healthy, relaxed and ready for a good lesson.

Horse grooming brush and equipment checklist

To help you, we’ve put together a list of horse grooming brushes and accessories and how to use them. We’ve broken this list down into essential items that you need regularly and should be the first tools you buy, and occasional items that you need less frequently or seasonally. You will also find helpful images of horse grooming tools to help you identify them correctly.

The indispensable set

curry comb

What is it? A curry comb is a short-toothed rubber or plastic horse grooming comb used to rub or “curry” the horse to loosen hair, dirt and other particles and to stimulate the skin for healthy blood flow and production of natural oils. There are also metal combs that are used for heavier duty and brush cleaning purposes.

How is it used? The harrow usually has a handle on its back that the driver’s hand can slip into to make the circular motion needed to remove debris. It can also be used in quick, short strokes towards the hair.

Where is it used? All over the horse’s body, but not on the legs or head.

Stiff brush

What is it? A stiff brush is a horse grooming brush with long, stiff bristles to remove dirt, hair and other debris thrown up by the groomer. These brushes are most commonly made with plastic bristles, although more expensive versions may have natural bristles such as rice stalks.

How is it used? The stiff brush is used in short strokes in the direction of the horse’s hair growth, except on the flanks where the hair grows in a different pattern. Water can be applied to some dandy brushes and they can be used as water brushes to dampen the hair.

Where is it used? All over the horse’s body, but not on the legs or head.

Soft brush

What is it? A soft brush is a soft bristled horse grooming brush used to remove particles and grease from the coat and provide a soothing sensation to the horse. These brushes are made of either natural fibers such as horsehair, goat hair, or boar bristles, or soft, synthetic fibers. There are also versions that are smaller and designed for facial use.

How is it used? The soft brush is used in long, sweeping strokes to smooth the coat and bring natural oils to the surface. Normally, these brushes need to be rubbed periodically against a metal curry comb to remove dust so it doesn’t get back into the horse’s coat.

Where is it used? These soft brushes can be used all over the horse’s body, although a smaller brush may be needed to carefully groom the face.

Metal harrow

What is it? Metal combs are similar in design to plastic combs, but are made of metal for a harder finish. They still have rows of serrated teeth and a handle.

How is it used? The main reason they are so important is that they are used to clean other grooming brushes due to the effectiveness of their blades in removing dirt from fibers. Mainly for this purpose you will need one in your kit.

Where is it used? A metal comb can be used to remove debris from brushes by moving its bristle brushes across teeth.

Mane brush or comb

What is it? A mane brush and comb are two horse grooming tools used to groom a horse’s mane to keep it from becoming tangled or matted, or even to style it. Horses with cropped manes usually require a mane comb that is wide-toothed and made of metal or plastic. Greater lengths will require a mane brush, which is very similar in design to a human hairbrush.

How is it used? Mane brushes are quicker to use because they can be used in one sweeping motion that quickly smoothes hair. A mane comb, on the other hand, needs to be gently pulled through the hair and can be used to thin out the mane in preparation for braiding, using a technique called mane pulling.

Where is it used? The horse’s mane – although many people use a body brush for daily grooming

sponge

What is it? A soft sponge used to clean a horse’s more sensitive areas and to wet and wash large areas of the body and legs. It can also be used to clean wounds.

How is it used? The sponge is moistened and then applied to the horse. Sensitive areas require a small sponge and gentle strokes, while washing larger areas can be done with a large sponge and broader strokes.

Where is it used? A small, soft sponge should be used to clean the face, especially around the eyes, nose, ears and lips. A separate small sponge should be used to wipe the dock and bar. The body and legs can be tackled with a larger sponge.

Stable rubber

What is it? A care towel made of linen or terry cloth (or similar) or a lambskin glove.

How is it used? A stable gum is usually dampened and used to give the horse’s coat the finishing touch after grooming. One can also be used to wick moisture when drying or to remove sweat after a ride, although the latter can also be done with a sweat scraper.

Where is it used? The sturdy rubber can be used anywhere, taking care on the face and other sensitive areas.

hoof pick

What is it? A hoof pick is a hooked tool with a handle, usually metal or plastic, that is used to remove dirt, mud, and stones that have become lodged in the sole of a horse’s hoof. They can also be used to remove stuck snow in winter.

How is it used? The horse’s hoof is lifted so that the bottom of the hoof is accessible, then the rider removes the trapped debris from heel to toe. All four hooves are cleaned before and after riding.

Where is it used? On the underside of the horse’s hoof.

The occasional kit

water brush

What is it? A waterbrush is a soft-bristled horse grooming brush used to apply water to the horse. Since it’s not always necessary to apply water to the fur, you’ll likely need it on occasion.

How is it used? The waterbrush is used to dampen a horse’s coat, mane or tail for a quick clean or to smooth down unkempt hair.

Where is it used? It can be used to moisten any part of the horse’s body, although a sponge should be used for the face and other sensitive areas.

sweat scratches

What is it? A sweat scraper is a horse grooming tool used to remove sweat or excess moisture from a horse’s coat. The most common types of scrapers use a rubber blade, either in the form of an arc with a handle or in the form of a straight stick. Some models of Shedding Blades have a flexible sweat wiping function.

How is it used? A sweat scraper is used in a scraping motion across the horse’s coat, much like cleaning windows with a squeegee. This removes any sweat or moisture trapped in the coat after exercising or washing.

Where is it used? It can be used on the horse’s body, but not on the legs or head.

drop blade

What is it? A skin blade removes loose hair from the horse’s coat during the season when the winter coat is shed. A popular skinning blade design is a long, flexible metal blade with short, blunt teeth. It has handles on either end that can be connected, allowing the blade to be secured in a loop for storage. Many skinning blades have a non-serrated side that can also serve as a sweat scraper. There are now more non-metal teeth options to consider if your horse has particularly sensitive skin.

How is it used? The skin blade is designed to be pulled over the horse’s winter coat in the spring, where the teeth pull out the loose winter hair, leaving the summer coat. It can also be used all year round to remove crusted mud from your horse. As the blade is metal it should be used with great care not to injure the horse.

Where is it used? The blade can be used on the horse’s body, but bony areas (such as the head and legs) should be avoided.

fly spray

What is it? Fly Spray is a specially formulated spray to repel flies from your horse during the spring and summer months when they become a nuisance.

How is it used? The spray is applied to your horse’s coat after grooming to ensure it is not molested, bitten or infected by flies when outdoors.

Where is it used? The spray can usually be applied to your horse’s body and legs, but the face is usually avoided due to the sensitivity of the eyes and mucous membranes.

How to groom a horse, step by step

Now that you know what you need in a horse grooming kit, you can begin to learn the horse grooming process. Here we’ve put together a step-by-step horse grooming guide to walk you through the basics of a daily grooming routine. By following these stages, you can ensure your horse is happy, healthy, and looking good.

1. Tie up your horse

Before you begin grooming horses, it’s best to tie them to a post or beam to ensure they stay in place. Even if your horse normally stays in one place, he may shift his weight or move his feet during grooming, so it’s best to take this precaution.

Try to attach the lead rope at a point that is above the withers (shoulders) and only use a quick-release knot, aka a “highwayman’s hitch” (you can find a simple guide here from Animated Knots). Ideally your lead rope should be attached to a piece of bale cord that is attached to the beam or fence (or similar) as in an emergency the cord can snap if the horse pulls and gets startled.

2. Clean your horse’s hooves

To start, you’ll need to pick up your horse’s hoof so you can access it with your hoof pick. Stand at their side and face the opposite direction from them and next to the leg you want to lift. Have your hoof pick ready in the hand farthest from you. Run your other hand over his front leg until you grasp the hoof, and slowly lean forward until he shifts his weight, hopefully causing him to lift his foot. If that doesn’t work, you can try gently squeezing the tendons above your pastern (the sloping part between the hoof and pastern).

Next, hold the lifted hoof in your hand and use the hoof pick to gently remove any debris stuck to the bottom of the foot. Working from back to front, making sure you don’t accidentally bump your horse’s leg, foot, or yourself, remove any debris around the frog (the fleshy “V”). If your horse is shod, poke around the inside of the hoof to remove any pebbles, or if your horse is barefoot, clean the area where the bottom of the hoof meets the edge.

Once you’ve cleaned the hoof of dirt, take a moment to look for signs of injury or disease. A common problem is thrush, which is most obviously indicated by a dark discharge from the frog area. Check the hoof wall (raised edge) for cracks that may need attention from your farrier. You can then gently lower your horse’s hoof back to the ground and move on to the next.

3. Curry your horse

After all of your horse’s hooves have been picked and inspected, it’s time to take care of her body. Start by using your groomer to loosen the dirt in her coat. As you walk over their fur, you should see dirt particles rising from the skin for easier brushing later.

Start on the left side, work from ear to tail, avoiding the head, mane, tail and lower legs and being careful going over bony parts of the shoulders, hips and legs. Use circular motions and apply gentle pressure to remove unwanted particles. If your horse flattens its ears or wags its tail, it’s a sign of discomfort, so relax and crank more gently. Take the opportunity to check for skin lesions or wounds along the way.

4. Brush off dirt and debris

After you’ve removed all the dirt from your horse’s skin, it’s time to brush it off. So, grab your dandy brush and use quick flicking motions to brush the dirt out of her fur. You must cover the same areas that you just combed, avoiding the head, mane, tail and lower legs. Start at the neck and work your way around the horse following the direction of hair growth.

5. Use a body brush to add shine

The last brush you will be using on your horse’s coat is the body brush, which has softer bristles perfect for giving a luxurious shine. This gentler touch means you can safely use this brush on your horse’s head and legs, although you may need to use a smaller body brush for the face.

Start at the head, work your way down the body, and then down the legs. Use long, sweeping strokes in the direction of hair growth to remove any particles left behind by the dandy brush and smooth the hair. Be sure to use shorter sweeping strokes on the lower legs just to make sure your horse is nice and comfortable.

6. Pay attention to sensitive areas

After grooming your horse’s coat, you need to clean the sensitive face and dock area (under the tail). Use a dampened sponge or sturdy rubber cloth to gently wipe around the eyes, ears and muzzle, taking extra care not to cause discomfort. It’s also worth checking for signs of eye infection, such as excessive tearing, swelling or redness, and checking your horse’s ears for stuck dirt or seed. Be careful when cleaning or handling the ears as some horses are very delicate.

Next you need to wipe down your horse’s dock area under the tail. For reasons of hygiene, be sure to use a different sponge or cloth for this area and be very gentle with this sensitive area.

7. Comb through the mane and tail

To get a flowing, shiny mane and tail, you need to detangle and comb them carefully. Start by working your fingers through the worst tangles in the mane, separating them as best you can. Then use your mane brush to smooth down the hair, working on small sections at a time and working from the bottom up. One effective method is to gently grasp the top of the area you are working on with one hand and run the brush or comb through your hair with the other hand. This should avoid any pulling.

If you’re doing the same with the tail, you’ll need to stand slightly to the side and gently pull the tail toward you. This will ensure you are out of stepping range in case your horse gets startled. Depending on the condition of your horse’s tail, you can also use a stiff bristle brush to brush the mane and tail.

How to wash and groom a horse for a show

A regular grooming routine should keep your horse looking good on a day-to-day basis, but if you’re planning to start eventing or compete in dressage or show jumping, you’ll probably want to give your horse a more thorough wash and grooming before the show.

This process will likely be a little more thorough than your normal horse grooming routine and will likely involve bathing your horse and perhaps braiding the mane and tail. To get you started, we’ve provided a few tips on how to get your horse in top shape.

How to wash a horse

Basically, bathing a horse can consist of wetting its coat with a hose or wiping it with a sponge, which is often enough to remove mud or dirt. It’s also common for them to be hosed down after a hard workout to cool them down. However, since horses do not naturally seek running water, you may need to teach them to accept washing or introduce it gradually, especially if using a hose.

However, when you enter them for a show, you’ll probably want to give them a thorough scrub and shampoo to ensure their coat is spotless. Before you start, you need to assemble a few items to ensure you can do a good job:

A few big sponges

A scrub mitt

A horse friendly shampoo

A horse friendly mane and tail conditioner

A sweat scratch

A few large towels

a hose

A big bucket

There are a few things to consider when choosing a shampoo. First, like humans, horses have allergies, so before applying it to their entire coat, you should do a patch test on their skin to see if a shampoo is safe to use. If there is no response after a day, you can proceed.

Additionally, non-conditioning soaps tend to dry out the skin, which can become a problem when the stickiness rubs against the coat. So try to use a conditioning shampoo whenever possible and don’t leave it on your horse’s skin for long.

1. Flush your horse

Before you begin washing, be sure to comb and brush any residue from your horse’s coat. Next, either start your hose or fill a bucket with moderately warm water so that washing is comfortable. Then you can start rinsing the coat with the hose or apply water with a sponge to pre-rinse. Start at the feet and work upwards and outwards, being careful to avoid the head. You can then apply water to the underside of their body, under their tail and between their legs before finally wetting their mane and tail.

2. Soap your horse

Now we can make the shampoo foam. Empty your bucket if you used it for rinsing and fill it with more warm water and put a sponge in it. Add shampoo and swirl around until the water begins to foam to create lather, then apply the sponge to your horse’s coat in circular motions from neck to back, then move onto legs and underside. Soap a second sponge and use it on the under-tail area.

Next you can shampoo the mane and tail. You can apply some soap to your hand and work it through the mane, wetting it enough to create a lather. The easiest way to wash the tail is to dip it in the bucket of soapy water and then work through the root of the hair to the tip. Finally, get a scrubbing mitt and go all over the body to make sure the shampoo gets scrubbed in.

3. Rinse again

Using the same procedure outlined in Step 1, begin rinsing off any suds after they have been scrubbed in. Be sure to wash all shampoo residue off the coat, especially on the stomach and back, as residue can be irritating to your horse. Rinse the mane and tail gently, making sure no residue is left behind. At this point you may want to apply some mane and tail conditioner to your horse’s mane and tail to prevent breakage and keep them soft and silky. Let this sit while you finish swimming your horse’s head to reap the benefits of the conditioner soaked in it.

4. Wash your head

To wash your horse’s head, put some fresh, warm water on a sponge and wring it out so it’s not too saturated, then gently wipe the head and face, avoiding the eyes. Repeat the process with a soapy sponge and then repeat again with the water sponge for rinsing. You should also rinse the mane and tail if you used conditioner.

5. Trocknen Sie Ihr Pferd

Zuletzt müssen Sie Ihr Pferd abtrocknen. Während sie natürlich natürlich trocknen, ist es wichtig, dass sie sich nach dem Waschen so angenehm wie möglich anfühlen. Beginnen Sie, indem Sie Ihren Schweißschaber verwenden, um den Körper Ihres Pferdes zu kratzen, und folgen Sie dabei der Haarwuchsrichtung vom Hals nach hinten. Diese Bewegung ist sehr ähnlich, als würden Sie einen Fensterwischer verwenden und wird das meiste überschüssige Wasser entfernen. Verwenden Sie einen trockenen Schwamm, um Feuchtigkeit von den Beinen und anderen empfindlichen Bereichen aufzunehmen, da diese zu empfindlich für den Schaber sind. Sie können dann den Kopf, die Ohren, den Körper und die Beine sanft mit einem Handtuch trocken tupfen.

Können Sie dieses Gefühl bitte umformulieren: Nachdem das Pferd nur leicht feucht ist, möchten Sie es vollständig trocknen lassen. Zunächst sollten Sie etwa zehn Minuten mit ihm spazieren gehen, nur um seinen Kreislauf in Schwung zu bringen und seine Muskeln aufzuwärmen. Danach, wenn es ein warmer, sonniger Tag ist, können Sie ihn ausschalten. Wenn es draußen kalt, sehr windig oder bewölkt ist, legen Sie ihm eine leichte, atmungsaktive Decke über und lassen Sie ihn drinnen.

Wie man die Mähne und den Schweif eines Pferdes für eine Show stylt

Wenn Sie an einem Turnier, Dressur- oder Springwettbewerb teilnehmen, ist eines der ersten Dinge, die den Richtern und dem Publikum an Ihrem Pferd auffallen, das Aussehen seiner Mähne und seines Schweifs. Aus diesem Grund geben sich viele Konkurrenten viel Mühe, um sicherzustellen, dass sie perfekt konditioniert und gestylt sind.

Wenn es um die Wahl eines Conditioners geht, können Sie einen wählen, der aufgetragen und ausgespült wird, wenn das Haar feucht ist, oder ein Leave-in-Produkt, das einfach durchgekämmt wird. Einige Leute verwenden eine Kombination aus beidem und füllen sie in der Nacht vor oder am Morgen der Veranstaltung mit Leave-in-Conditioner auf.

Um einen Waschconditioner aufzutragen, sollten Sie dies tun, während Sie Ihr Pferd waschen. Bei den meisten Produkten kämmen Sie den Conditioner vom Ansatz bis zum Ansatz ein und lassen ihn etwa 15 Minuten einwirken, bevor Sie ihn ausspülen. Wenn Ihr Pferd besonders trockenes Haar hat, müssen Sie die Spülung öfter anwenden. Ein Leave-in-Conditioner ist normalerweise in einem Sprayformat erhältlich und kann aufgetragen werden, nachdem Ihr Pferd gebadet wurde.

Schließlich haben Sie die Möglichkeit, die Mähne und den Schweif Ihres Pferdes für den Wettbewerb zu flechten. Dies wird von vielen Dressurreitern getan, da sie denken, dass es das Aussehen ihres Pferdes verbessert, aber es ist nicht obligatorisch. Es ist ratsam, vor jeder Show mit verschiedenen Zöpfen zu experimentieren, damit Sie herausfinden können, ob Ihnen das Aussehen Ihres Pferdes gefällt oder nicht.

Traditionell erhalten Pferde mit geflochtenen Mähnen und Schweifen eine ungerade Anzahl von Zöpfen, meistens 11 oder 13, um eine gute Länge zu erreichen. Denken Sie jedoch daran, dass je mehr Sie hinzufügen, desto länger der Hals Ihres Pferdes erscheint, daher lohnt es sich, seine Körperform zu berücksichtigen und die richtige Menge zu wählen.

Weitere Fragen zur Pflege?

Warum werfen Sie nicht einen Blick auf unsere jüngste Serie Alan Davies Masterclass with NAF – wo der Supergroom der Stars, Alan, uns durch einige der Fragen führt, die ihm häufig gestellt werden. Einschließlich Mähnen- und Schweifpflege, Heunetze und Fütterungsroutinen.

Die Pflege ist unerlässlich, um sie gesund und glücklich zu halten und Ihre Bindung zu vertiefen. Wir hoffen, dass dieser Leitfaden zur Pferdepflege Ihnen eine gute Vorstellung davon gegeben hat, welche Pferdepflegewerkzeuge Sie benötigen und wie Sie sie richtig verwenden, sowie die beste Methode.

Wenn Sie mehr über Pferdepflege und -sport erfahren möchten, werden Sie sich freuen zu erfahren, dass wir unzählige großartige Programme auf Horse & Country haben, darunter Trainings- und Lernvideos, Sportberichterstattung sowie Unterhaltung und Dokumentationen. Erwägen Sie, unseren Service zu abonnieren, um Zugriff auf eine ganze Bibliothek mit hervorragenden Reitsportinhalten zu erhalten.

1. Wash your horse’s mane before brushing and braiding

(Video available at bottom of page) If you don’t braid your horse’s mane properly, you are likely to irritate your horse’s neck and hair roots. This is bad, how really bad, as it will make your horse want to rub against anything he can find to relieve the tension caused by your bad braids. Your horse will never grow a longer, fuller, or healthier mane by constantly rubbing it. Also, you won’t see the great results that come from feeding your horse BioMane Equine Pellets! Have no fear! You can braid your horse’s mane properly in no time and grow a longer, fuller and healthier mane. As part of the BioMane How To Series, we want to share with you our top 9 tips for braiding (and storing) your horse’s mane. It is important that your horse’s mane is free of debris and dirt before braiding. If your horse’s mane looks more like a dump of dust and rubble than a beautiful mane, we strongly recommend washing it. Thoroughly wash your horse’s mane and allow it to dry completely before brushing or braiding.

Proper braids come from proper preparation. Take the time to brush your horse’s mane before you begin braiding. Use the BioMane Mane and Tail Brush and the BioMane brushing technique to ensure your hair is brushed properly. (CLICK HERE for more information on mane brushing)

3. Braid small sections at a time

Your horse has a long neck. The tip of this neck extends even longer when your horse bends down to eat, drink, etc. It is important that you only braid small sections of the mane at a time. This will ensure that you don’t put too much tension on the mane as your horse moves his head all day.

Start at the top of the mane, near your horse’s head, and begin braiding sections consisting of just a few inches of your horse’s mane. This may seem like a lot more braids than you are used to. That’s okay! It is worth taking the time to braid this way and it will go a long way towards protecting your horse’s mane.

4. Loosely braid the first 4 to 5 crosses of the braid

Braiding the mane is very similar to braiding the tail. If you make the first few crosses of your mane braids too tight, you will cause more irritation to your horse’s neck and mane roots. Imagine constantly tugging and tugging at a section of your hair all day long! Don’t let your horse endure this!

Obviously you need some level of tension to keep the braids in place. However, it is important that these braids are loose enough so as not to unnecessarily irritate your horse.

5. Make the rest of your braid neat and tight

After loosely completing the first 4 to 5 crosses, begin braiding the rest of each mane section neatly and tightly. There’s no need to overdo the tension of the braids, but make sure your braids are tight enough and neat enough to hold the full braid.

6. Don’t be a lazy braider!

7. Use black electrical tape to secure your braids

You may think it’s pointless, but get over it! Braid to the end of your horse’s mane. Typically, you shouldn’t leave more than 3 to 4 inches of your horse’s mane outside the bottom of your braid. This will provide significant protection to the ends of your horse’s mane, and it’s definitely worth it. We promise.

After braiding your horse’s mane, we recommend using black electrical tape to secure the braids. Electrical tape is stretchy and pliable, allowing you to keep the end of your braid tight and secure. In addition, this type of tape does not leave excess dirt on your horse’s mane. We strongly advise against using any other type of tape on your horse’s mane.

We urge you not to use thin rubber bands for long periods of time. While these bands may be required for certain events or shows, they can do a lot of damage to your horse’s mane if left in for too long. Don’t let those little ribbons cut off the bottom four inches of your horse’s mane! Whatever you use to secure your horse’s mane, we recommend only leaving the braids in for about 7 to 10 days. If necessary and the mane looks good, you can try leaving the braids longer.

8. Put in pigtails if your horse’s mane is long

9. DO NOT braid near your horse’s withers

If your horse has an incredibly long mane, we recommend pinning up the braids to shorten how low they hang. This will keep these braids even more secure when your horse eats, drinks etc. To stow the braids, proceed as follows: Take a single braid. Separate the top of the braid in two to create a small opening. Braid through the opening you just created until the braided braid is about 6 inches long. If the tucked braid is still significantly longer than 6 inches, you may want to pull the end of the braid through the small opening one more time. Finally, secure the tucked-in braid by taping it around it with black electrical tape

It is important to note that you should leave the part of the mane closest to the withers unbraided. This section may experience the most tension during your horse’s activity and it is important that it is free of tension. All braids, even if they are loose, can cause too much tension on this section of the mane.

Your horse is one of your most prized possessions. We understand. They should look good, feel great and work even better. By following these simple steps and our other techniques, you will ensure that you are taking good care of your horse’s mane. By feeding BioMane Equine Pellets and taking proper care of your horse’s mane and tail, you will ensure your horse looks like a million bucks. Watch the video:

Coconut oil is the solution to your horse’s thin and dull mane. With regular use, it will make your hair lush, shiny and long. Your horse can finally have the mane and tail of your dreams. This oil nourishes and moisturizes for healthy hair. It can also be used as a wound ointment and weight supplement!

The benefits of coconut oil

Due to its fatty acids, coconut oil is able to repair individual strands of hair. Your horse’s rough mane will become smooth and silky with consistent use.

The hair will obviously be shiny.

Your horse will experience less shedding. Over time you will notice a thicker mane and tail.

how to use it

The key to using coconut oil in your horse’s hair is to apply a generous amount. You should work it into each strand for six days in a row. Make sure you coat the entire length of the hair. Allow the oil to soak into your hair after each use. On the seventh day, wash your horse’s mane and tail with a good shampoo.

Coconut oil is readily available at grocery stores. It’s affordable and lasts a while. If you’re not using it in your barn, you need to start!

Jennifer specializes in articles about horse training, care and buying.

Fjord horse with its traditionally trimmed mane showing off the black and white striped self

Why trim a horse?

Horses are trimmed to make them look neater for the show ring and also for the convenience of their owners.

The following areas can be trimmed:

mane

tail

ears

whiskers

face

Legs

What is trimmed depends on personal preference and horse breed. (For example, trimming the legs of a draft horse is considered wrong.)

What to trim the mane with

In general, a horse’s mane is not trimmed to full length. Instead, the mane is thinned out or pulled with a pull comb.

Trimming the mane with scissors tends to make the mane tufted. It’s also hard to even get it. A trimmed mane can also stand upright on a maned hawk. (Some horses have manes that definitely don’t lie flat).

The bridle path

However, it is common to clip off a small portion of the mane behind the ears. This is called the “bridle path” and is designed to make the bridle easier to put on and take off.

Some people cut off as much as six inches for a bridle path. I personally think that looks really silly, but some swear by it.

Removing the mane

Finally, sometimes the mane is removed altogether. This is known as ‘hogging’ in the UK or ‘roaching’ in the US. Mane roaching can be done if the horse’s mane just doesn’t look good no matter what you do with it.

Also, some people believe that a horse with a combed mane is cooler and take it off for the summer. In Britain, hunting butts and working butts have traditionally had their manes combed to make their necks look more arched. Colored cobs, on the other hand, are always presented with a full mane.

The forelock is always removed in cockroaches, but may or may not be left in other breeds. Some people believe that removing the forelock makes the horse’s eyes more susceptible to insects. Mules are also traditionally cockroached as they tend to grow a thin, upright donkey-type mane.

In some breeds, the mane should remain “full”. This is commonly done in Arabians and is traditional in most northern European pony breeds, with standards specifying the maximum size of a bridleway as the only mane cutting, trimming or thinning permitted.

Dude String mules with three-layer tail Self

trimming the tail

Again some breeds shall be shown with a full tail. However, even in such breeds, it is normal to trim the tail just enough so that it doesn’t drag along the ground and get dirty.

Banged cocks

Most riding horses have their tails banged.

To hit the tail:

Have a helper lift the tail slightly.

Then wrap your hand around the tail about 4 to 6 inches below the hock and simply clip it straight.

The tail should be raised to allow the tail end to sit properly when riding. Horses raise their tails when they move.

Some people prefer to layer the tail on the side, which they feel looks more natural.

Pulling the top of the tail is sometimes done, but most people prefer the look of a full tail and braid it to show it off.

Other styles

Some draft horses have their tails shaved down to the dock. This is considered a more humane alternative to tail docking, and is intended to prevent the tail from snagging on a harness or farm machine.

Tail shaving is also traditional in thong mules. The term “shavetail” comes from the fact that a fully shaved tail indicates an untrained mule.

When handling big strings, shaving the tail in layers is still sometimes used to indicate the mule’s training or job:

Completely shaved for the untrained

One layer for pack

Two layers just for Wrangler

Three layers for dude mules

trimming the ears

Trimming a horse’s ears is somewhat controversial. Some people believe ears should never be trimmed. Others remove hair from both the outside and inside of the ear.

The traditional method, however, is to hold the horse’s ear together and trim off just the messy, excess hair.

Trimming the inside of the ear removes the horse’s protection from flies and can increase the risk of ear mites. A horse with trimmed ears should wear a fly veil when showing. It’s much easier not to trim the ear in the first place.

Trimming just the excess looks just as neat.

Trimming the whiskers

Horses have whiskers on their muzzle and around their eyes. While they’re not as long or delicate as a cat’s whiskers, they do serve a purpose.

However, many people clip their show horse’s whiskers off. I personally oppose the practice, although slight trimming for cleanliness is acceptable.

The horse needs them to navigate the stable in the dark, and they don’t look ugly with a full moustache. Of course, if you’re not showing it, just leave the whiskers alone.

Face trimming

Some horses grow shaggy hair under their chins and jaws. For shows, it is often advisable to cut off this long hair, which makes the horse’s head look more noble.

This hair can be trimmed with scissors or with small clippers, much like a dog’s.

Resident ponies should not have their face trimmed, and I wouldn’t trim if you have a horse that lives outside all winter as they will appreciate the extra warmth.

When using scissors, always use properly curved trimming scissors for your horse’s face, not straight scissors. It’s far too easy to accidentally stab your poor horse with straight scissors.

trimming the legs

All horses get feathers around their pastern. This feathering is traditionally removed from light horses. It is often very minimal and just looks messy.

Many people also believe that removing the spring reduces the risk of cracked heels or “mud fever” i. H. cracked skin on the back of the fetlock.

My personal observation is that if the horse is a draft horse or pony with a lot of feathers it is best to leave it on as moisture does not get to the skin, but for light horses it is best to take it off.

Draft horses and pony breeds should not have their feathers removed or trimmed in any way. Full feathering is part of the breed standard for these horses.

Some draft horses, ponies, and corncobs may have so much feather that you can’t really see their hooves.

This article is accurate and truthful to the best of the author’s knowledge. It is not intended to replace diagnosis, prognosis, treatment, prescription or formal and individual advice from a veterinarian. Animals showing signs and symptoms of stress should be presented to a veterinarian immediately.

© 2012 Jennifer Povey

Jess on November 24, 2018:

when to trim horse feathers

Anon on 04/01/2018:

While it’s okay to trim a horse’s tail to straighten it, PLEASE DO NOT trim your horse’s tail…. It’s there to help the horse in a number of ways, including fighting flies. No whisker cutting either. Illegal in Germany…

Jade0215 on July 02, 2012:

You have a lot of great information here, keep up the good work!

Ann1Az2 from Orange, Texas on July 02, 2012:

Very interesting! When we had horses I never trimmed my horse’s mane or tail because they were long and red. Sometimes I’ve cut a bridal path, but that’s about it. My husband’s horse that had Thoroughbred in him looked much better with a combed mane because it never lay flat. My son’s horse was a Paint (or Pinto) and his mane was long and beautiful, but it parted down the middle, half on one side, half on the other. My son liked it – that was the main thing! Aligned, interesting and useful.

sethpowers from Virginia on July 02, 2012:

Very informative, good job!

1. A healthy mane and tail starts with a balanced diet

…and good nutrition starts with good quality feed. I always recommend a high-feed diet for any horse. If your horse is stabled and fed only hay, then a ration balancer (many feed shops call it a “complete vitamin and mineral supplement”) is necessary to balance the ration. I use Blue Seal’s Sunshine Plus during the winter when my horses are out in the paddock, but what you use will depend on what is available in your area and what level of nutrients your horse is already getting from the hay and concentrates you feed.

2. Supplement Biotin

I am not suggesting using any of those expensive, specially formulated supplements that you see advertised everywhere. I prefer to keep it simple. Most local feed mills have a Brown Bag biotin supplement behind the counter that is pure biotin and cheaper than fancy horse feed.

3. Be careful how you brush your horse’s mane and tail

Some people will tell you to brush it every day and braid it or wrap it up and all that nonsense.

Not.

The only brush I have found that is marketed for horses is the Oster mane and tail brush. You can also go to Wal-Mart and get a wide-toothed comb or just use your fingers to pick out the tangles. Just don’t use anything made of metal or have sharp edges.

Whatever brush or comb you use, you should separate the hair into sections and start at the bottom of the hair and work your way up. You shouldn’t hear all sorts of noises coming from the hair. If the hair is dry and thin, it may take a while to brush properly the first few times. Patience is the key.

That said, some people might tell you not to brush your horse’s mane and tail at all. I wouldn’t go that extreme. Wind knots and ridges must be sought out regularly. If the knots get too big, they could snag on something like a braid or tail bag. Just be careful not to tear the hair. If you have very dry hair with a lot of split ends, this can be very tricky and time-consuming at first.

Once you get the horse on a balanced diet, you want to start trimming those split ends like you would human hair. They will not magically disappear. Yes, this will cause some nasty markdowns in the short term, but it’s worth it in the long run.

4. Don’t wash it all the time

You see all these special shampoos that you assumed were all magical and medicated and treat dry skin and… no, just stop it.

Shampoo removes the oils from the coat. It doesn’t matter how “gentle” the shampoo is. Horse hair is not like human hair. Human hair gets mangy and dirty if you don’t wash it, while horse hair gets smooth and shiny if you don’t wash it. Do not transfer human hygiene to horses. If your horse is dirty, rinse it off with the water hose. The horses you see in these photos have not seen a bottle of shampoo in at least 9 months. For some it is up to 3 years. I just rinse them off with water when they’re sweaty, elbow wax and high quality brushes when they’re muddy. If they’re really really mushy, I’ll apply all of the above.

Why can I get away with this? Their fur is so oily that dirt just seems to slide off them. It all comes down to diet, diet, diet.

Healthy on the inside = healthy and shiny on the outside Click To Tweet

5. Do not braid or bag your mane and tail

So many people think that braiding and bagging manes and tails protects the hair. I tried. In my experience, it does exactly the opposite. Just the extra weight of the bundled hair pulls out more hair. Pigtails and sacks snag fences, brush and god knows what else (because we know horses always find something to snag) and pull out hair. Braiding and bagging usually goes hand-in-hand with washing and lathering with products.

no

It is better to invest your time and money in a balanced diet and additional grazing space.

I know this is the hard part, but if you really want permanent results, you’re not going to get them overnight. It can take a whole hair loss cycle to really see improvement, but as always, patience is key. Another key is to have realistic expectations. This method creates a much thicker mane and tail for your horse. But if you start with this:

Then this ends with an improvement:

As in this case:

Remember, healthy on the inside = a happy, healthy, shiny, easy-to-untangle pony on the outside

Disclaimer: I am in no way profiting from the product promotions in this article. I receive no compensation, monetary or otherwise, for naming these products.

Some people don’t use a comb in a tail, but Palm finds using a wide-toothed comb acceptable and DOES NOT pull! However, her preference is for a real hair brush.

Whether you use your fingers, a brush, or a comb, always start at the bottom of the tail and work your way up. This will keep you from pulling out hairs when you hit a tangle. It helps to apply a detangling product like Farnam’s Laser Sheen or Vetrolin to the tail first.

“A lot of people never touch or pay attention to the horse’s tailbone, but that’s a good thing because you’ll notice any concerns like a sore, a tick, or dry, flaky patches of skin,” says Palm.

To encourage growth, the tail should be kept clean, but that doesn’t mean over-washing.

To encourage growth, the tail should be kept clean, but that doesn’t mean over-washing. Palm suggests shampooing the tail weekly for the first month and then every two weeks thereafter. “Be sure to rinse thoroughly,” she adds. “If you notice a light gray color or a ‘sticky’ feeling at the base of the tailbone, it means the shampoo hasn’t been washed out thoroughly and the hair isn’t clean at the roots.”

Palms uses a warm water wash-out conditioner after shampooing because she feels this conditions the hair better than cold water. After rinsing out the conditioner, she applies a leave-in conditioner.

“This helps keep the tail tangle-free so you can brush it without breaking the hair,” she notes.

Put a bag on it!

If you’re trying to help your horse grow a long, healthy tail, get a tail bag, or more specifically, “tail tubes.” And yes, there is a difference!

A tail bag is only intended for short-term use, e.g. B. when trailering or if you are at the trade fair overnight and want to keep the rear of manure and chips clean. If you want to protect the tail from the weather and encourage growth, tail tubes are helpful.

If you use a day or night tail pouch, wash and condition the tail first. Let it dry and then brush the hair straight, using a detangler if necessary. Divide the tail into three equal sections; some hair gel can make handling easier. Braid the tail, maintaining an even tension, but don’t pull it tight. Hand comb the hair as you braid. Tie off the end of each braid with real hair ribbons. Insert the braids into the tail bag and tie the bag just below the tailbone.

Tail bags come with two or four straps; what you use is your personal preference. Avoid pockets with Velcro, as tail hair can get caught in them.

If you want to protect the rear for longer than overnight, opt for tailpipes instead. Divide the tail into three sections and insert each section into a tube. Then braid these tubes together. That way, hair doesn’t rub against hair like a regular braid, which can cause breakage—which is exactly what you don’t want if you’re hoping to grow a long, thick tail.

Cock Tip: How to “Bang” a Cock:

Once exclusively an ‘English thing’ typically seen on eventing, dressage and racehorses, banged tails (blunt cut across the buttocks) are now seen in Western events. Depending on the natural length of your horse’s tail, you can “flap” the tail just a few inches off the ground, at the pastern, or four to five inches from the bottom of the hock.

You will need hair clippers or sharp scissors.

Brush the tail first so it’s smooth and tangle-free. Do not get wet or spray on a care product.

Next, have a friend trot your horse so you can observe how it normally carries its tail when it moves. Then tie your horse up and have your friend loosely hold the tail in the same position the horse is in motion. Hold the end of the tail tightly together with the hair. Use the scissors or clippers to trim straight across the ends to create a “rectangular” look.

Untie your horse and let your friend walk him so you can check the appearance of the tail. It should be square to the ground when the horse is in motion. If necessary, trim the end again to get the desired length. Remember, it’s always better to play it safe than to cut off too much at once!

You may never plan on showing your horse, but you still want him to look his best. Your obvious starting point is to provide a complete, balanced diet appropriate for your horse’s age and use. Then comes the fun part: a regular grooming routine that keeps the skin, coat, mane and tail clean and groomed.

Have you ever looked twice when you saw a particularly handsome horse? An iridescent coat and shiny, flowing mane and tail will always turn heads whether you’re in the show ring or hitting the trail.

Despite all the myriad grooming products on the market, Anderson insists that there really is no substitute for good old-fashioned “elbow grease.” You also don’t need a huge arsenal of fancy tools to do great work. Of course you can expand this list, but the basic care products are:

To find out what grooming routines professionals rely on, we spoke to Tina Anderson of Millsap, Texas, a lifelong horse owner and 15-year American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) judge. Anderson is also Director of New Product Strategy and Development at Farnam Companies, Inc.

Aside from looks, grooming is a time of bonding and relaxation for you and your horse. It’s also a great way to spend time with a horse that you can’t ride for some reason, e.g. B. with a young horse, an old pensioner or a horse recovering from an injury.

Anderson has used the following routine for decades and finds it works well for any type of horse.

Start with the head. If you have a small rubber curry comb, use it very gently on your face. Otherwise, use a soft brush and a soft, damp cloth. Gently wipe ears and nostrils with the towel.

Spray a detangling/shine product on mane and tail; Leave it on for a few minutes while you groom and brush the rest of the horse.

Use a rubber curry comb on the entire body, including the abdomen and flanks. Use a stiff-bristled brush to brush away the dirt stirred up by the harrow. Be gentle with the legs. Then use a soft-bristled brush to sweep all over the body.

For mares, use your towel to gently clean the udder, including between the teats. For men, check and clean the vagina weekly or at least monthly.

Pick out the hooves with a hoof pick. Use a hoof pick with bristles on one end (or a stiff brush) to remove dried mud or manure from the outside of the hoof.

Use your fingers to poke through the tail to remove any tangles, starting from the bottom and working your way up. When it’s free from tangles, you can use a soft brush. Never use a comb in a tail; it pulls out too much hair. Use a mane comb to comb out the mane. If the mane is long or thick, treat it like a tail, skipping the comb and using your fingers or a soft brush instead.

Aside from looks, grooming is a time of bonding and relaxation for you and your horse.

Finally, run a clean grooming towel over your entire horse to remove any last traces of loose hair, dust and dander.

You don’t have to use a detangling/shine product every day, but spray on every few days or as needed to prevent your horse’s mane and tail from tangling. This will also help repel dirt and stains, keep his body clean and his coat trimmed.

“It’s not just useful for ‘shine,'” says Anderson. “A detangling/shine product is great for repelling stains, preventing tangles from forming, and preventing ridges from getting stuck in the mane and tail.”

Don’t forget to clean your brushes every few days, or even daily if your horse is particularly dirty. Simply rinse them in a bucket of soapy water, rinse well with clean water and let them dry in the sun.

H2O time

Unless the weather is too cold, you should rinse your horse after each exercise to remove dirt and sweat. It may smell wonderful, but shampoo isn’t needed every day. Once a week is sufficient. And if you use shampoo, be sure to choose one that’s formulated for horses and follow label directions.

“People often use ‘human’ shampoos, but these aren’t the best for horse hair and skin,” says Anderson. “For stubborn stains, look for a leave-in shampoo. A shampoo applicator that you attach directly to the hose is great when you’re short on time because it really blows the dirt out.”

Don’t forget the mane and tail, but be sure to rinse out the shampoo completely or it may leave a grey, sticky residue. Anderson has found that the best method is to use a bucket when washing tails. Gently dip the tail in a bucket of soapy water and scrub well with your fingers. Make sure you go all the way to the tip of the tail and under the tailbone. Rinse thoroughly and to ensure you have removed all of the soap, refill the bucket with clean water and submerge the tail completely.

A common complaint about human hair products is that build-up can occur with continued use. Anderson says this isn’t usually a problem with horsehair products…provided you’re using the right products in the right way.

“If you use quality products formulated for horses and flush properly, you shouldn’t get buildup. When you see it, it’s usually in the tail because shampoo is difficult to rinse out. So I recommend soaking the tail in a bucket of fresh water.”

If the weather is too cold for bathing, use a horse dry shampoo. You spray it on, massage it in and wipe it off with a damp cloth. This is particularly effective on manure and urine stains.

Common mistakes

Horse owners – even those with many years of experience – often make mistakes when grooming. Anderson shares some of the most common:

Not grooming regularly. If you don’t follow a regular grooming routine, you run the risk of overlooking small issues that can become big problems. Also, your horse just won’t look good.

With the wrong grooming tools. Use brushes and tools made specifically for horses. That means no metal comb or scraper; they can be harsh on the skin and harmful to the hair.

combing tails. A comb and a tail should never meet! Combs will pull hair out, even if used carefully. Use your fingers and a detangling product. Start at the bottom and work your way up to remove any knots. Only when a tail is free of tangles should you use a brush but skip the comb.

Shampoo too often. Shampoo can dry out the skin and hair if used too often. Once a week is sufficient and many horses don’t even need it that often.

Apply shampoo directly to the horse. Read the label! Many horse shampoos are concentrated and only require a small amount in a bucket of water. Pouring it on the horse wastes money and the product doesn’t work as intended.

By Nicole Fava

There is nothing more beautiful than a horse with a shiny coat. And a shiny horse doesn’t just look good – it’s a sign of health and proper nutrition. Here are 10 tips to help give your horse that great show ring shine!

1. Use a curry comb and body brush daily. Start with a comb to loosen hidden dust and dirt. Then go over your horse’s coat with a body brush. This will remove the dirt and disperse your horse’s natural oils. You can also add a finishing touch with a wool mitt or baby wipe!

2. Use a hair sheath blade during molting season. A shedding blade pulls out loose winter hair, revealing the shiny summer coat underneath.

3. Deworm your horse regularly. A dry coat may indicate that your horse has worms. Consult your veterinarian for an appropriate deworming program. Normally you should deworm your horse every 6 months – once in the spring and once in the fall.

4. Provide your horse with a balanced diet. This includes an adequate source of protein, enough vitamin A and vitamin E and many trace elements (such as selenium, iron and zinc).

5. Consider adding supplements to your horse’s feed. Biotin, omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, sunflower seeds and flaxseed are just a few examples. You can also add oils like cold-pressed flaxseed oil, soybean oil, or canola oil.

6. Make sure your horse gets exercise. When a horse moves, blood vessels bring nutrients and oxygen to its skin. And when a horse sweats, it releases toxins from its skin.

7. Bathe your horse. Simply hose down your horse and it won’t shine, so consider a full bath every few weeks. Avoid using human shampoos for this job… a pH balanced horse shampoo usually works better. Always use conditioner to moisturize your horse’s coat and give it a final shine.

8. Protect your horse’s coat from sun bleaching. Consider buying a fly screen for the summer months. Not only will your horse be bug-free… his coat will be protected from harmful UV rays and stay shinier.

9. Talk to your veterinarian. If the above tips don’t work for your horse and his coat remains dull, there may be a medical problem. A horse that develops an excessive, dull coat could have a pituitary problem that needs to be addressed.

10. Invest in a paint polish. You should prioritize your horse’s health and grooming as the main source of its shiny coat. But for that final shine before stepping into the show ring, a coat polish is a good choice.

Remember . . . Your horse’s coat is a direct reflection of its overall health and diet! Keep your horse clean, get his diet in order and watch your equine partner shine.

As a horse owner, you are not only concerned about your horse’s proper nutrition and quality care, you also want it to look and feel its best at all times. Whether you are preparing for a horse show or simply want your horse to look like a champion at home, grooming your horse is an important part of horse care. From long, flowing manes and silky smooth tails to sleek, shiny coats, here are some insider tips you can use when grooming your horse to keep it looking its best.

personal hygiene

First, you should start grooming your horse with a good quality curry comb. Designed to remove dirt and loosen dead hair, curry combs are also great for massaging your horse’s skin and stimulating the release of natural oils found in their coat. There are different types of curry combs including rubber, plastic and metal curry combs, but rubber curry combs will work best for your horse. Metal curry combs are popular, but they can be harsh, especially on non-fleshy areas of your horse, and can easily damage and break your horse’s hair. To properly use a curry comb, you should use small circular motions, starting at your horse’s neck and then gradually working down his body and legs. Try to apply even, even pressure to his coat as you move over his body, massaging and working to loosen the caked mud, dirt, and loose hair. From time to time while grooming, you will need to pause and tap the comb against a hard surface to remove the dirt and hair that has accumulated in the comb. Alternatively, if you find your horse to be sensitive to touch or grooming, you can try using a curry glove, which fits easily over the entire hand and is particularly good for sensitive horses.

Next, you should thoroughly brush your horse’s coat using various types of body brushes designed for horse grooming. You should start with a stiff bristle brush and brush your horse’s neck first and then gradually brush his body and finally finish with his legs. As you brush your horse, try making flicking motions with the brush that will help remove the loosened hair and debris you’ve brought up with the comb. Next follow with a medium bristle brush to further remove the loose dust and hair and finally finish brushing with a soft bristle brush. Soft brushes are perfect for delicate areas like your horse’s face, they’re also great for catching fine dust particles and they also help smooth the hair so it lays flat. You should always brush your horse in the direction of hair growth and remember, the more elbow grease you use when brushing, the more natural shine you bring to your horse’s coat. If it’s within your budget, a grooming vacuum is also a great tool that can also be used to remove deep dirt and loose hair.

Finally, use either baby wipes or soft, slightly damp towels or sponges to gently remove the dirt around your horse’s eyes and nostrils, and then use another towel or sponge to remove the remaining dirt from his coat. For special occasions or when you want to show off your horse, many professionals like to use topical care products for the finishing touch. There is a wide range of products you can use including coat polishes to repel dust and add shine to your horse’s coat, stain removers to remove manure or urine stains, color enhancing products and sunscreen products suitable for fair skinned horses face and muzzles were developed.

When you are finished grooming your horse, you should clean the brushes and combs by soaking them in soap and water, then rinsing them thoroughly and letting them dry before putting them away.

manes and tails

Keeping your horse’s mane and tail clean and moisturized is an important part of grooming your horse, especially if you want his tail to look long and thick and his mane shiny and healthy. If your horse’s mane and tail are dirty, or their skin is itchy and dry, they are likely to start rubbing and scratching, which will lead to damage and hair breakage.

To care for your horse’s mane and tail, you can start with a thorough clean with warm water and shampoo and gently work the shampoo thoroughly into his mane and tail. Some shampoos need to be diluted with water first, while others can be applied directly (follow label directions). After washing and thoroughly rinsing all the shampoo out of his mane and tail, you can apply a moisturizing conditioner. While there are no hard and fast rules as to how often you should bathe your horse, try not to overdo it, as over-washing could strip his mane and tail of their natural oils.

Allow your horse’s mane and tail to dry naturally, then use a wide-toothed comb to smooth the hair down. You can use a small amount of hair detangler first, which will remove any knots and tangles and also help prevent new ones from forming. Simply apply a small amount of product to the palm of your hand, rub your hands together, then gently run your hands and fingers through your horse’s mane and tail to distribute the detangler evenly throughout the hair. You should use grooming tools made specifically for horse manes and tails. Avoid using human hair brushes which can easily lead to hair breakage, split ends and hair loss. When grooming your horse’s tail, you should hold the tail hair in one hand and comb it out with the other hand. As part of your daily routine, you should also use a dandy brush at the base of your horse’s tail – this will remove loose dander and dirt that can make your horse itchy and rub his tail.

For the final “professional” look, use tail clippers to trim the base of your horse’s tail straight to give it a thick, boxy look. When trimming, only cut off the longest hairs on the underside of the tail to keep it looking clean and tidy and also to prevent it from dragging on the ground.

You may also want to braid your horse’s mane and tail at home – not only does this help prevent breakage and damage, but braiding your horse’s mane also helps “train” it to be smooth and straight in one direction lies flat. If you are showing your horse you can use a braiding spray which will make braiding easier and will also help keep your braids looking clean and taut. If you prefer not to braid your horse’s tail, an alternative is to tie loose knots in your horse’s tail, which also helps keep it off the ground if it’s long. Simply section off several sections of the tail and tie loose figure eight knots into the long sections of hair.

Another popular option to protect your horse’s tail hair from damage is to use a tail pouch. If you decide to use a tail pouch, follow the directions carefully and place it well under the tailbone. Remove daily to check the condition of your horse’s tail. If you take your horse to a paddock or arena during the day, you should remove the tail sack first as it could catch or get stuck on a fence post and injure his tail.

After a few sessions of routine grooming and conditioning of your horse’s mane and tail, you will find that they are now much easier to care for and less prone to knots and tangling. Also remember that healthy hair comes from the inside out so you need to make sure you are providing your horse with good quality hay. You can also give your horse a good biotin supplement like Hoof Renu which is great for both hoof health and healthy hair growth.

muzzle, face and ears

Many horse owners wish to tidy up their horse’s jaw, muzzle and ears by trimming and shortening shaggy or stray hairs. To clip your horse’s face and ears, you can try using cordless clippers with #10 blades to give him that clean, polished look. You can start by trimming around his jaw while applying light pressure. Next, if you want to trim your horse’s ears, fold your horse’s ears slightly from the back so the front edges are pinched together. You can then trim and tidy up the protruding hair, gently using slow, downward motions as you proceed. If you decide to trim your horse’s whiskers (some people prefer to keep their horse’s whiskers long), you can trim them gently with your clippers while also applying very little pressure. Keep in mind that your horse may not have electric clippers on his face, so introduce him to the process slowly and gradually let him get used to the sound and vibration of the clippers.

hooves and legs

Keep your horse’s hooves clean by plucking them out with a hoof pick every day, even if you don’t intend to ride that day. By taking care of his feet every day, you can immediately identify any issues that need to be addressed, including removing rocks or debris from his hooves, or locating a loose or missing shoe. When your horse is showing and it conforms to the rules of your riding discipline, you can apply a hoof polish for that extra touch – you can use either a dark polish for dark hooves or a clear polish for light hooves. To apply, you should draw a straight line along the crown band with the polish. Then you can apply even, smooth lines to the toe. You should allow the polish some time to dry before taking your horse out of the grooming area to prevent dirt and dust from sticking to the wet polish.

To tidy up the look of your horse’s legs, you can use your clippers to trim any loose hair around his legs and pasterns. Keeping the hair on your horse’s legs short not only helps keep his legs dry and clean, but also helps your horse when he’s prone to scratching. If your horse has white socks, for an extra touch you can use blue shampoo to bring out the white color and then apply baby powder to boost the white.

Grooming your horse daily not only keeps his skin and coat healthy, but also gives you the opportunity to spot anything unusual like cuts, scrapes or swelling. Luckily, most horses enjoy the extra attention of being groomed, and they look forward to the routine of regular brushing and pampering. And by spending that extra time together grooming your horse, you’ll also get to know each other better, which will help build and strengthen the bond between you two. Here is a checklist of some of the items you can use when grooming your horse. Do you have any special care tips you can share?