Horse Tie Up Rings? The 230 Detailed Answer

To prevent your horse from backing away after being tied, you will need a long cotton rope, a nylon halter and a sturdy, well-secured snubbing post. The post should not break or give way when the horse backs up. Remember to tie in an area with good, soft ground in case the horse falls. Place the nylon halter on the horse’s head. Take the long cotton rope and tie it around the horse’s belly just behind the shoulder. It is important that you tie the rope with a bowline knot. The bowline will not tighten on the horse’s belly when it backs up. On this page you will learn how to tie a bowline knot. You can also watch a video. If you don’t know how to tie a bowline knot, it’s a good idea to practice before trying it on the horse. Once the knot is tied around the horse, pass the rope between the horse’s front legs through the bottom of the halter under the horse’s chin. Then tie the rope to the snubbing post with a quick release knot with about 12 to 18 inches of slack, or simply wrap the rope twice around the post and hold the end of the rope. Make sure the rope is long enough to give you a good distance from the horse. This second method allows the rope to slip a little, which can be less scary for the horse. When the horse backs up, the pressure isn’t on the horse’s head and neck, it’s on its run. Once he retreats he will come forward due to the pressure so don’t stand in front of the horse or between the horse and the snubbing post. The horse is allowed to retreat a few times before standing still for the first time. As soon as he realizes that he cannot free himself, he will stand there tied up. You may need to repeat this several times over several days before the horse learns to stand tethered.

Another method is to tie to a rubber hose that allows for some stretch, which in turn helps the anxious horse. Another method is to use what looks like a half snaffle (Coach Clinton Anderson uses this). This allows the rope to slip, but the horse won’t get free if you use a long rope. The horse learns that there is nothing to fear and begins to stand up. For example, you might want to teach your horse to stand, but when you approach it pulls back. With this ring method, the person approaches and the horse is allowed to back away until comfortable. Bring the horse back to the post and start again. Build on this until the horse doesn’t pull back at all.

Tethering a horse is such a common part of horsemanship that most people never think about it.

But if you’ve ever experienced or seen a horse panic while tied to a post or trailer, you know how dangerous it can be.

The horse could have stood still. Even seems to be sleeping.

And then he seemingly explodes out of nowhere, wreaking havoc!

And he creates a risk of injury to himself…

…as well as the people and other horses around him.

Teaching your horse to stand still and composed when tethered is an essential part of his training.

And for keeping you and your horse safe.

Tethering your horse securely means you don’t trigger a flight or fight response

Since horses’ primary defense is flight, it’s understandable that they have a very strong and instinctive fear of being held back in any way.

Training that uses strong restraints induces fear – often resulting in the horse “fighting it out” triggering this flight/fight response.

Some people recommend teaching a horse to be tethered by tying it to something solid (like what’s called a “patience bar”) with a rope and halter that won’t break.

Or even tie a rope around its barrel and back through the halter.

These types of methods can panic some horses enough to seriously injure themselves.

Including damage to the cervical vertebrae, broken legs or permanent nerve damage in the poll, neck or back.

If the horse falls over, the result can be a broken withers or even death from a broken neck.

Even if he doesn’t hurt himself, the horse is just learning that “resistance is futile.”

This is known as learned helplessness – a feeling of powerlessness. Certainly not something you want in my equine partner, right?

It is possible to teach your horse how to be securely tied while at the same time building his confidence and helping him to overcome his instinctive behaviors.

Horse owners will usually find it necessary at some point to transport their horses. A trailer may be required at the time of purchase, for horse shows, trail rides, or a medical emergency. Whatever the need, it’s important to be prepared and knowledgeable about trailer safety. Poor preparation of the horse, trailer or towing vehicle can turn a pleasant outing into a nightmare for the horse owner. Poor maintenance of trucks and trailers can lead to traffic accidents or breakdowns such as: B.: Latte tires; a broken axle, spindle, or spring; and engine damage. In more extreme cases, broken welds can cause a trailer to become detached from the towing vehicle. Perhaps the most serious problem that can result from improper trailer maintenance is a horse falling through rotted floorboards. especially during the trip. This fact sheet contains the basic concerns related to horse trailer maintenance and trailer safety.

THE TRAILER

When purchasing a horse trailer, consider your horse’s needs. The trailer should have:

Sufficient height (7-8 feet) and width (6-8 feet) for the horse(s) to be pulled.

Rubber mats on the floor and tailgate provide traction and cushioning during loading and unloading and while driving

Tie ropes or chains of sufficient length with quick release safety clasps

Adequate padding on chest bar and stall sides

Interior lighting for night transport

Ventilation openings on the roof and on the side walls

Every time a horse trailer is used, regular maintenance checks should be carried out. Routine items include:

Tires must be at least 1/4 inch tread (check with your state motor vehicle agency for measurement), adequately inflated, and show no signs of dry rot cracking. Spare tires should also be checked.

Jacks and safety triangles or reflectors should be in good working order in the event of a breakdown. (Flammable flares should not be stored in the horse trailer due to fire hazard)

Floorboards should not be rotted or in poor condition.

Replace any questionable circuit boards. To prolong the life of a trailer floor, mats should be raised after use and the floor swept or hosed down. If the floor is hosed down, make sure it is dry before replacing the mats. Annual application of a weather seal to the planks will also extend their lifespan.

Any screws, bolts or nails that may have become loose and are protruding from inside the trailer should be removed.

All lights (marker, tail, brake, directional and interior lights) should work and be bright.

Clutch welds, safety chain welds and snaps should be in good condition.

Lubricate the hitch ball as needed.

Wheel chocks should be in good condition and used whenever the trailer is unhitched from the towing vehicle.

Annual maintenance checks include:

Inspect frame for cracks and wires for loose connections and frayed upholstery

Repair or replacement of rotted or rusted metal

Grease all hinges, springs etc.

Inspection of ramp hinges and springs for weak points and cracks

The wheels should be pulled and the bearings checked and repackaged

Checking the spring shackles for wear

Inspection of brakes and emergency breakaway cable, pen and control box

SAFETY FOR HORSE TRAILERS

Practice loading and unloading the horse in the trailer well in advance of all scheduled events; especially if the horse is unfamiliar with slopes. Struggling to get into the caravan is an awkward way to start a journey or end a pleasant day.

Horses should be transported in a leather halter rather than a nylon halter. In an emergency situation (e.g. if the halter gets caught), a leather halter breaks more easily and the horse’s head is less likely to be injured or burned.

Wrapping a horse’s legs for travel not only protects the legs from injury but also provides extra support. It is important to ensure that the bandages extend below the crown band to protect this area. (See Rutgers Cooperative Extension Leaflet #609 Horse Bandaging: A Practical Art for the proper way to wrap a horse’s legs.)

Always remove all bridles (saddle, bridle, harness) from the horse when transporting it.

loading the horse

When loading and unloading horses, it is best to have two people available to do the job.

Use a cotton or leather leash when loading and unloading horses. This is advisable in case the horse rushes backwards and pulls the leash through your hands. Nylon lines blister, burn and cut hands when pulled quickly.

Before leading a horse into the trailer, make sure chest bars and exit doors are open to allow the handler to exit safely. Never climb under or over bulkheads, chest bars or the horse to exit the trailer. Never leave yourself in the position of being wedged in the trailer with the horse between you and the exit.

Make sure the trailer is securely and properly coupled to the towing vehicle before loading a horse. Never load a horse or leave a horse in an uncoupled trailer. Do not unhook a trailer if there is still a horse in it. Trailers are very unstable and can easily tip over.

When loading a single horse, place the horse on the left side of the trailer. If you are transporting two horses in the trailer, put the heavier horse on the left side. This makes the trailer towing smoother and easier for the horse to ride due to the crown contour of the road surface.

When approaching the ramp, make sure the horse is in the middle of the ramp so the horse doesn’t step off the sides.

Always secure the bumper/chain before tying the horse’s head. If the horse backs away before the bumper is in place, it will not break the tie or halter or fall off. Do not stand directly behind the horse when hooking the bumper in case the horse flies backwards.

When tying the horse’s head, use a safety quick-release knot or a tie with a panic/safety snap (see Figure 1). Make sure the horse has enough rope length to allow head movement for balance, but not to bring its head down or toward the horse riding alongside.

travel security

Most horses accept being hung naturally, while for others it is often a traumatic experience. It is important that a horse is happy and safe when being transported. One bad trailer towing experience is enough to make a horse a bad hauler. A bad shipper is difficult to cure.

Before you travel, check that the horse is comfortable, that there is adequate ventilation, and that the hay sack or manger is securely fastened to prevent the horse from becoming tangled in it.

Test all doors to make sure they are secure and that the clutch is tight. Safety chains should be in place and all lights and brakes must function in accordance with your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles regulations.

Turns, starts and stops should be very slow and smooth.

Do not exceed the speed limit. Remember to allow for extra braking distance when towing a trailer. Moving horses and the weight of the trailer press against the towing vehicle.

Do not allow anyone to throw lit cigarettes or matches out of the towing vehicle window. Wind currents often suck the cigarettes or matches into the trailer, causing a fire.

Check the horse(s) at every stop or every 100 miles. Also check the hitch, safety chains, lights and hay bags at this time. Make sure the hay sacks are full and offer the horse(s) water to drink.

If possible, avoid reversing with the trailer. If assistance is required, it is advisable to have someone outside the vehicle to watch and guide you.

Unloading the horse

Keep feet and hands out of the way when lowering the ramp.

Untie the horse before lowering the bumper.

Do not stand on the ramp or directly behind the trailer when a horse disembarks if it exits the trailer quickly. It is not advisable to quickly reverse a horse as this quickly becomes a bad and dangerous habit.

Try to keep the horse straight as it descends the ramp so it doesn’t slide off the side. After hanging, walk the horse around for a longer distance to restore circulation and loosen stiff muscles.

Other Security Precautions

When tying a horse to the outside of a trailer, use a quick release safety knot or panic buckle. Make sure the rope is short enough that the horse cannot get a leg over it, but long enough to allow free movement of the head. Never tie a horse to a trailer with a rope long enough for it to graze. This is where the worst trailer accidents happen.

The ramp to the trailer should be in an up position when tethering a horse to the outside of the trailer, particularly when the tether rings are to the rear. A ramp in the down position leaves space between the back of the trailer and the springs where a horse could easily get trapped with a foot or leg. The ramp is also at the right height so that the horse can injure its lower legs.

Never leave a horse unattended tethered to the outside of a trailer. If leaving a horse in a trailer, make sure the chest bar and bumper are secure, especially if an escape door is left open.

Do not tie a horse to the outside of a trailer when it is unhitched from the towing vehicle. Horses are stronger than we think and a panicked horse can and will drag an uncoupled trailer behind it.

Trailering your horse is a fun and rewarding experience. As long as common sense is exercised and the above safety guidelines are followed, there is less chance of an accident while towing.

REFERENCES

Essential Safety Guide for Horses. American Youth Horse Council in association with the American Horse Council. 1989

. American Youth Horse Council in association with the American Horse Council. 1989. Trailer Safety Checklist. Equus Magazine, May 151, 1990.

Publication No.: FS607

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When my granddaughter and I went to the racehorse stables, she noticed that the trainer tied the horses differently than we do at home. We usually use a single guide rope while he uses bow ties. On our way home she wanted to know all about bow ties and if we could set one up for her horse.

Using bow ties is a great way to tie your horse while you work with it. It gives you space and keeps the animal centered so it doesn’t get tangled or – hurt you. Cross braces should be at least the height of your horses seat and meet in the middle.

In this comprehensive guide, I discuss the different types of traverses, how to use them safely, and their benefits. I also answer some frequently asked questions. If you are considering buying bow ties for your horse or are just curious, then this guide is for you!

What are cross-connections and what do they do?

Horse cross ties are simply two pieces of rope, straps, or chains attached to either side of a wall or two posts, with a quick release buckle at the end that can be attached to a horse’s halter.

They allow you to securely tie your horse to prevent it from moving and quickly free it in an emergency. Cross ties are particularly useful when working with young horses.

The different types of bow ties for horses

If you are in the market for a cross tie for your horse, you may be wondering which type is right for you. There are different types of cross braces, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Which type of truss is best for your needs depends on the situation and your preferences. Let’s take a closer look at each type.

There are two main types of bow ties: the standard bow tie and the adjustable bow tie. However, they come in many variations, such as nylon, rope, and breakaway.

The standard crossing is the most common type. It consists of two ropes or chains attached to either side of opposite walls or two posts with a snap at the end.

The adjustable crossbar is similar to the standard crossbar, but includes a mechanism that allows you to adjust the length of the ropes or chains. This type is ideal for horses of different sizes as you can easily adjust the length to fit properly.

What are cross ties made of?

Bow ties are usually made of nylon or polyester, but I’ve seen them made of all sorts of materials, including chain, bungee, and leather. The material should give a little or attach flexibly to something.

Key features include a quick-release closure on one end and tear-off functions. Some people design their own tear-off system by attaching bale cords or zip ties to the rings of the wall ties and then hooking the quick release buckle to them.

But I prefer to have the breakaway safety feature on the holster so the broken side falls off and stays attached to the wall; it will not follow your already excited horse. I’ve also heard of traverses detaching from walls, snapping back and hitting a horse in the eye.

Whichever method of tearing you prefer, use one as it is better for a horse to cross-tie and loosen than to injure itself.

The benefits of using bow ties on your horses

If you are a horse owner, you know how important it is to keep your horse calm and relaxed. One way to do this is by using cruciate ligaments. They are a safe and comfortable way to handle your horse and they make grooming and saddling a lot easier.

At the stables where we keep our racehorses there are two washing stands and both have good lighting, concrete floors with rubber mats and sleepers. All three are essential to working safely with horses.

When the grooms take our horses out of the box, they always go to the washing stand and secure them with bow ties. There they are brushed and carefully examined for swelling, injuries and foot problems. After tidying up and tidying up, they’re stapled up for morning practice.

After completing the training, they are brought back to the washing rack and reconnected to the trusses. This time they will be unsaddled, brushed and re-examined before hitting the bike to cool off.

When they’re done on the wheel, they’re taken back to the washing rack for a good bath before returning to their stall.

You can use bow ties to hold up a horse’s head, restrain the horse from moving, and train young horses. They are valuable tools for inexperienced horses unaccustomed to being held. It teaches them to stand still and doesn’t allow them to move as much as with traditional tying methods.

Set up cross ties for your horses

If you are designing a new horse stable, I highly recommend including an area for putting up cross braces. Working with horses can be a lot of fun, but it’s important to make sure you do everything safely. A necessary safety precaution is the installation of cross braces for your horses.

To set up traverses you will need two posts or sturdy walls at least 8 feet apart to give you enough room to work around your horse and get out of the way if he starts to get frightened. In most barn aisles or laundry racks, the spacing is typically 10-12 feet, which is ideal.

Attach a tie ring about six feet or six inches above your horse’s withers on each side. (I prefer using blocker tie rings.) Attach your adjustable bow tie to the tie rings. Pull both ends at an angle towards the middle of where your horse’s head would be and cross them about three inches to determine the length.

This length allows your horse to stand comfortably and raise and lower its head; This is important for balance, especially if you pick up one of his feet. You may need to adjust the length for your horse, but make sure there is enough slack to allow your horse to move around but not so much that he can reach the ground with his head.

Make sure you have a breakaway system before attaching the bow ties to your horse’s halter. I usually attach a plastic tie or clip to her halter to attach my bow tie quick release buckle. This will ensure that the halter connection will not break if the horse is startled.

Never leave your horses tethered for long periods of time as this can be dangerous. Crossties are a great way to work safely with your horses, but always use quick releases and breakaway ties.

Below is a helpful YouTube video that includes some safety tips on how to tie a horse.

Why horses withdraw

There are three things to keep in mind when tying a horse: Horses are naturally claustrophobic. Horses have a fight or flight instinct. Horses have a very strong survival instinct. When a horse realizes that it is tied up tightly and feels trapped, it will panic. His fight-or-flight instinct kicks in and he tries to escape and retreats. The Blocker Tie Ring allows the horse to pull enough slack through the tie ring to alleviate its cause of panic or claustrophobia. Letting go is the solution. The Blocker Tie Ring is an excellent tool for retraining a horse with a withdrawal problem.

If you are working with your horse who has trouble pulling back, you must overcome your horse’s pre-existing psychological aversion to tethering. If your horse panics and backs away, the Blocker Tie Ring allows your horse to pull the lead rope through the tie ring, preventing your horse from applying enough pressure to untie the tie or whatever it is tied to . The moment your horse stops pulling back, the pressure on the poll, neck and withers is relieved. This allows the horse to determine for itself that it hasn’t stumbled and that the pressure is off as soon as it stops backing away.

What You’ll Need Before you begin, you’ll need the following: A properly installed Blocker Tie Ring in a controlled environment such as a B. an arena or a round pen. A long lead rope, between 10 and 12 feet long. A good understanding of how to use the Blocker Tie Ring and tie the three different levels of tie. Confidence in your horse to lead and stop properly with a good concept of whoa. It’s important that he understands how to give in to pressure.

lead ropes

Different lead ropes offer different levels of support. For example, a brand new polyester lead rope may have less support than an older cotton lead rope that has been sitting in your barn for years. Experiment with different lead ropes in your stable and you will see how different ropes work. Often it will only be necessary to use the Level One tying method as your lead rope will provide enough support to support your horse. But note, if you cannot pull the lead through the blocker tie ring, you are probably using more grip than necessary to support most horses. The recommended length of lead rope between your horse and the Blocker Tie Ring is approximately 90cm. Depending on the horse, you may need more or less. The “Tying Options” allows you to adjust the grip of the Blocker Tie Ring by using one or more of the three different binding options. Additionally, you can add a few pounds or several hundred pounds of support simply by changing the type of lead rope used. Level 1 Basic Binding Option provides the least amount of support for your horse. It’s also helpful to learn the basics of your floorwork. Work on leading, backing, and stopping your horse and asking him to give in to the pressure. Restoring this foundation works directly with retraining to bind.

NOTE: Never leave your horse unattended when teaching him to be tied.

Invented by respected British horse trainer Roy French, the Idolo Tether Tie trains your horse to tether securely and confidently. It’s made in the UK from high quality industrial nylon, making it strong, durable and rustproof.

The Idolo is perfect for training young horses or horses that tend to back off too quickly and break breakpoints. When the horse pulls back, the idolo uses friction to allow the rope to slowly loosen but remain connected at all times, preventing the horse from panicking and applying constant pressure. The pressure can be changed by reversing the idolo.

Experts will tell you that in order to teach a horse to be securely tied, you must teach your horse to give in to pressure and step forward when it feels the rope tightening, rather than jumping backwards. Many of us have seen a horse being tied up tightly or tied to baler twine, backing away when startled, then feeling trapped when the halter tightens, panicking and trying to free itself. The Idolo Tether Tie not only avoids this scenario, it uses pressure and relaxation to teach your horse proper behavior.

Click on the links below to see videos of using the Idolo Tether Tie:

Using the tie is easy: make a loop, thread it through the tie as shown, slip it over the top, attach to a tie ring – done!

credentials

“I love the idolo tie so much I ordered two more as gifts for friends. It’s so easy to use and works exactly as described. Will never tie to a bit of bale twine again!’

“I just have to say I love the Idolo! Great for teaching kids how to tie securely. I recommend it to all my clients.’

“I absolutely love these. I was concerned that they thought wouldn’t that just teach my horse that he can pull away easily? No if anything it taught him to be more relaxed when tied up that he’s not trapped when he gets really scared but he’s so calm when tied up as you couldn’t saddle up the fence about 2 months ago around him without any kind of fear reaction.’

‘Thank you for a really great product. I bought 2 tethers from you at Badminton. They were so good I remarked to a friend how I wished I had gotten more. Luckily she went back the next day so she got more for me and a whole load for her polo ponies.? They are attached to every tie ring in the yard and our infamous ‘line breaker’ was brilliant even when I bathed him (usually he snaps the line and runs away as soon as the hose comes out). Now we just need a few more for the truck!’

frequently asked Questions

Does the tether work with any rope?

Most ropes sold at gear stores work well with the tether. Of course, the rope must also be knot-free at the end so that it can slide smoothly through the product.

How long it will take?

The tether should last for many years if used as intended. The idolo is designed to detach in an emergency situation, e.g. when a knot is tied in the rope and gets stuck in the idolo or when extreme pressure is applied. In this case the idolo is designed to give way over the shoulders and release the idolo’s neck to ensure your horse can be freed in an emergency.

My horse never backs away, so why do I need the tie-in harness? A horse has never been born that will never retire. Horses are unpredictable. Sometimes situations arise that are beyond your control. The horse is a flight animal by nature and even the calmest horse can be unpredictable.

Can I use the tie belt on a young horse?

Yes – the tie is ideal for young horses and even weaners. It will teach them to be attached at a young age. You will also learn to give in to pressure without fear or panic.

For very young horses, the pressure should be gradually increased using different threading patterns and inverting the tether tie for less pressure as indicated. The excess rope should be pulled through until there is approximately 12 inches between the tie ring and the halter. Each time the horse pulls back, feel free to pull the rope back through so it’s 12 inches long again.

How do I teach my horse to be tied?

It is a good idea to introduce your horse to tethering in the stable. First, thread the rope, preferably about 9 feet long, through the tether according to the instructions. This is very simple and you will quickly learn how to do it. Connect the leash to something strong and solid that won’t give. A tie ring firmly attached to the stable wall is ideal. Encourage your horse to back off by waving a plastic bag or something similar. Each time the horse pulls back, slowly feed the rope through the tether. Pull the excess rope back towards the horse’s head and try again. Each time you repeat this exercise, the horse will withdraw less and less. There is no such thing as an “average” horse, but we have found that most horses learn to tie themselves quietly after about 3 or 4 pulls on the rope.

Why does the tether work?

The horse is a flight animal and is claustrophobic by nature. When confronted with something scary, his natural reaction is to try to run away. Anything that prevents this instinctive response can cause the horse to panic. The tether gives the horse enough freedom not to panic, but not enough to loosen itself. When he realizes he’s not “trapped,” he’ll stop panicking and tie himself down calmly and quietly.

Can I use the tether in my trailer or truck?

Yes, the tether is ideal for riding in a trailer or truck. It’s also perfect for tying your horse to the side of the truck or trailer during a show. Some people attach them to their saddle and hack into the pub!

Where else can I use the tether?

Horse walkers, washing areas, clipping, shoeing, grooming, veterinary examinations, etc. etc.

Q: My mare keeps pawing the ground as soon as I step away from her. I’ve tried keeping her tied up until she stops but it never works. What can I do to stop them?

The pawing on the ground is a clear sign of impatience and frustration on the part of the horse. Horses paw at first because they want or need something: They don’t want to be tied up, or they want their grain faster. However, if a horse is allowed to scratch for a long period of time, it often becomes an ingrained habit that no longer has a specific cause.

The best way to teach a horse to be tethered is through practice. You must tie your horse up until it stops pawing. Believe me, she can’t paw me forever, but she’ll do a good job of making you think she can. I tie my horses up for at least four hours every day. They often stay tied up all day. It doesn’t matter if they’re good, bad, or indifferent; they are all tied up.

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Often a horse that paws at the tether will do so because it knows it will draw attention. What usually happens is that when the horse paws, someone comes out to stop it or even untie it. He begins to believe that he controls their actions and gets what he wants through paws. Think of your horse as a small child screaming for attention. Every time she is rewarded for her behavior, the problem only gets worse. So it’s best to just ignore them when they paw and teach them to stand tied up with patience.

Tethering a horse for a long period of time does many important things in your training. I have a little saying, “Conclude every training session by tying your horse to the tree or pole of knowledge.” Tying your horse after a training session teaches him respect and patience while also giving him an opportunity to think about the to think and absorb what you just taught it.

The last thing you want to do after a training session is to get off your horse, take him back to the stable, unsaddle him, hose him down and put him in his stall to eat. This makes your horse more focused on going back to the stall and eating than thinking about his work. If you make it a habit to tie your horse up two to three hours after riding, it won’t be in a hurry to get back to the stable.

Some people will read this and think I’m being cruel to horses. But what is the difference between your horse standing still in a box and standing still tied up? The difference with me is that when she’s standing tied up, she might be thinking about you and what you just taught her. I guarantee she won’t think of you at all in the dressing room.

If you want your horse to tie well, you need to be patient and teach him. If you practice it every day, it will just become a natural part of your horse’s routine.

Did you like this article? Here’s more from Clinton Anderson:

Video: Support for Respect

Aboard with Clinton Anderson at the World Equestrian Games

Clinician CLINTON ANDERSON owns and operates Downunder Horsemanship in Stephenville, Texas, where his method of riding has helped transform the relationships between thousands of horses and riders. He also hosts two workout programs that air weekly on Fox Sports Net and RFD-TV. www.downunderhorsemanship.com

This article originally appeared in the October 2013 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to login!

By Stephanie Valberg, DVM, PhD

I just bought a thoroughbred filly who was in race training but gave up without racing due to repeated bouts of “hanging up”. She was abandoned for six months before I got her and never showed any problems while on the farm. What can you tell me about this disease?

Tethering is a syndrome or description of a horse having muscle damage that has many different causes. It is probably one of the most misunderstood and controversial syndromes in the sport horse. Because there are multiple causes, some of which appear to be inherited, there is no single cure. Typical signs of tethering are a horse that becomes stiff, sweats and is reluctant to move. Researchers have learned a lot about bondage — or stress-related rhabdomyolysis — in recent years. Unfortunately, the information has shown that some of the most common beliefs about bondage have been proven wrong by scientific studies. What was viewed by some early researchers as a problem that had a fundamental cause e.g. Lactic acid, in fact, is a widespread syndrome that requires further research on a variety of fronts before each aspect is understood.

In other words, it is not one disease, but several different diseases that have similar signs and different causes. Therefore, treating a tethered Thoroughbred horse would be different than treating a tethered Quarter Horse would be different than treating a backyard recreational horse that has the same symptoms.

Some horses are healthy athletes who exercise intermittently, likely due to exercise exceeding their training level, electrolyte depletion, or nutritional imbalances. They respond well to rest, a gradual return to a graduated exercise regime, and a balanced diet. Other horses suffer from chronic episodes of tethering, which can be debilitating. Our research suggests that there may be several inherited reasons for chronic bondage.

Certain lines of Thoroughbreds appear to be more prone to a form of tethering that relies on abnormal regulation of muscle contraction. Muscle contractions are initiated by the propagation of electrical impulses along the outer cell membrane and along membranous junctions that extend into the cell, which then stimulate the release of calcium from intracellular membranous storage sites. Muscle relaxation requires an energy-dependent pumping back of calcium to storage sites.

Our research indicates that a common cause of attachment in Thoroughbreds is an inherited abnormality in the way calcium is regulated by membrane systems in skeletal muscle. The close genetic ancestry of Thoroughbreds and the common lineage of the horses with linking would support the possibility of an inherited trait. The disease could lie dormant unless certain factors trigger a malfunction in the calcium regulatory system. Triggering events include stress, excitement, lameness, high grain diets, and exercise at submaximal speeds.

Young mares are most commonly affected and are usually the most nervous and tense. Preventing further episodes of tethering in susceptible horses should include standardized daily routines and an environment that minimizes stress and excitement. The diet should be based on a balanced vitamin and mineral supplement, high-quality hay and a minimum of carbohydrates (e.g. grain and sweet food). Feeding less than five pounds of sweet food and adding extra calories in the form of fat reduces muscle damage from exercise. Daily exercise is essential, whether it’s in the form of exercise, lunging or horseback riding. Sometimes drugs like dantrolene given to fasted horses 90 minutes before exercise can be helpful in preventing anticipated tethering episodes.

Another form of attachment is polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM). It is characterized by the accumulation of glycogen (a storage form of sugar) and an abnormal sugar (polysaccharide) in skeletal muscle. The recent identification of a genetic mutation for PSSM by Dr. McCue, Mickelson and Valberg of the University of Minnesota revealed that there are actually at least two forms of the disease. A form of PSSM called type 1 PSSM is caused by a mutation in the glycogen synthase gene. Type 1 PSSM occurs in many quarter horses and related breeds, draft breeds, some warmblood breeds, and several other breeds. It has not previously been identified in Thoroughbreds. This mutation causes the muscle of the PSSM horse to continuously produce glycogen. As a result, they have trouble switching to burning glycogen for energy when they first start training, rather than storing glycogen in their muscles. Affected horses develop stiffness, muscle spasms, and soreness with light exertion, likely due to a lack of energy production in their muscles. Some horses with this condition also have an increased sensitivity to insulin, which further increases the storage of sugar (glycogen) in the muscles. PSSM Type 1 horses are often calm, easy-going horses who tie up after a lay-up, especially when fed grain. They are typically found in disciplines such as halter and recreational horse performance and typically do not perform well at speed. Type 2 PSSM has a slightly different microscopic appearance and is due to an as yet unknown genetic cause. It occurs in Quarter Horse-related breeds, Warmbloods, and likely other light horse breeds, possibly including Thoroughbreds. While type 1 PSSM can now be diagnosed through a DNA-based blood or hair root test, type 2 PSSM still requires examination of a muscle biopsy. Horses with severe signs of PSSM should also be tested for a second genetic mutation called MH. When MH and PSSM type 1 occur together, horses can develop severe episodes of tethering that can be fatal.

Treatment of both forms of polysaccharide storage myopathy involves providing horses with an alternative energy source such as fat instead of sugar. The complete renunciation of grain and sweet food as well as the feeding of fats such as rice bran or vegetable oils stabilizes the blood sugar and provides fat for the energy metabolism. It’s important that horses with PSSM get out as much as possible and are exercised often, even if it’s just 10 minutes a day. Horses with mild to moderate clinical symptoms may be able to return to full athletic performance with careful diet and management changes, including regular daily exercise without prolonged periods of inactivity.

Breeding horses with polysaccharide storage myopathy have at least a 50 percent chance of passing the trait on to their offspring. Pre-screening horses for Type 1 PSSM is now available at the University of Minnesota Diagnostic Laboratory. For test and form details, see http://www.cvm.umn.edu/umec/lab/Advances_in_PSSM.html.

If your horse tethers, here are suggestions on what to do:

1) Finish training the horse and put it in a box. Do not force the horse to walk.

2) Call your vet.

3) Cover up the horse when the weather is cool.

4) Determine if the horse is dehydrated due to excessive sweating.

5) Rehydrate hot horses with small, frequent sips of water and allow free access to water once the horse has cooled.

6) Relieve Anxiety and Pain. Medications such as acepromazine may be prescribed by your veterinarian.

7) remove grain and forage; Offer only hay until signs subside.

8) A little paddock involvement is good once the horse is free running, usually in 12 to 24 hours. If the problem recurs, have the horse evaluated for a specific cause of exertional rhabdomyolysis.

About the author: Stephanie Valberg, DVM, PhD, of the University of Minnesota is a leading researcher on attachment. dr Valberg, along with Drs. McCue and Mickelson, own the patent for the PSSM genetic test. A portion of the profits from ReLeve will go to Dr. Valberg and her research.

Invented by respected British horse trainer Roy French, the Idolo Tether Tie trains your horse to tether securely and confidently. It’s made in the UK from high quality industrial nylon, making it strong, durable and rustproof.

The Idolo is perfect for training young horses or horses that tend to back off too quickly and break breakpoints. When the horse pulls back, the idolo uses friction to allow the rope to slowly loosen but remain connected at all times, preventing the horse from panicking and applying constant pressure. The pressure can be changed by reversing the idolo.

Experts will tell you that in order to teach a horse to be securely tied, you must teach your horse to give in to pressure and step forward when it feels the rope tightening, rather than jumping backwards. Many of us have seen a horse being tied up tightly or tied to baler twine, backing away when startled, then feeling trapped when the halter tightens, panicking and trying to free itself. The Idolo Tether Tie not only avoids this scenario, it uses pressure and relaxation to teach your horse proper behavior.

Click on the links below to see videos of using the Idolo Tether Tie:

Using the tie is easy: make a loop, thread it through the tie as shown, slip it over the top, attach to a tie ring – done!

credentials

“I love the idolo tie so much I ordered two more as gifts for friends. It’s so easy to use and works exactly as described. Will never tie to a bit of bale twine again!’

“I just have to say I love the Idolo! Great for teaching kids how to tie securely. I recommend it to all my clients.’

“I absolutely love these. I was concerned that they thought wouldn’t that just teach my horse that he can pull away easily? No if anything it taught him to be more relaxed when tied up that he’s not trapped when he gets really scared but he’s so calm when tied up as you couldn’t saddle up the fence about 2 months ago around him without any kind of fear reaction.’

‘Thank you for a really great product. I bought 2 tethers from you at Badminton. They were so good I remarked to a friend how I wished I had gotten more. Luckily she went back the next day so she got more for me and a whole load for her polo ponies.? They are attached to every tie ring in the yard and our infamous ‘line breaker’ was brilliant even when I bathed him (usually he snaps the line and runs away as soon as the hose comes out). Now we just need a few more for the truck!’

frequently asked Questions

Does the tether work with any rope?

Most ropes sold at gear stores work well with the tether. Of course, the rope must also be knot-free at the end so that it can slide smoothly through the product.

How long it will take?

The tether should last for many years if used as intended. The idolo is designed to detach in an emergency situation, e.g. when a knot is tied in the rope and gets stuck in the idolo or when extreme pressure is applied. In this case the idolo is designed to give way over the shoulders and release the idolo’s neck to ensure your horse can be freed in an emergency.

My horse never backs away, so why do I need the tie-in harness? A horse has never been born that will never retire. Horses are unpredictable. Sometimes situations arise that are beyond your control. The horse is a flight animal by nature and even the calmest horse can be unpredictable.

Can I use the tie belt on a young horse?

Yes – the tie is ideal for young horses and even weaners. It will teach them to be attached at a young age. You will also learn to give in to pressure without fear or panic.

For very young horses, the pressure should be gradually increased using different threading patterns and inverting the tether tie for less pressure as indicated. The excess rope should be pulled through until there is approximately 12 inches between the tie ring and the halter. Each time the horse pulls back, feel free to pull the rope back through so it’s 12 inches long again.

How do I teach my horse to be tied?

It is a good idea to introduce your horse to tethering in the stable. First, thread the rope, preferably about 9 feet long, through the tether according to the instructions. This is very simple and you will quickly learn how to do it. Connect the leash to something strong and solid that won’t give. A tie ring firmly attached to the stable wall is ideal. Encourage your horse to back off by waving a plastic bag or something similar. Each time the horse pulls back, slowly feed the rope through the tether. Pull the excess rope back towards the horse’s head and try again. Each time you repeat this exercise, the horse will withdraw less and less. There is no such thing as an “average” horse, but we have found that most horses learn to tie themselves quietly after about 3 or 4 pulls on the rope.

Why does the tether work?

The horse is a flight animal and is claustrophobic by nature. When confronted with something scary, his natural reaction is to try to run away. Anything that prevents this instinctive response can cause the horse to panic. The tether gives the horse enough freedom not to panic, but not enough to loosen itself. When he realizes he’s not “trapped,” he’ll stop panicking and tie himself down calmly and quietly.

Can I use the tether in my trailer or truck?

Yes, the tether is ideal for riding in a trailer or truck. It’s also perfect for tying your horse to the side of the truck or trailer during a show. Some people attach them to their saddle and hack into the pub!

Where else can I use the tether?

Horse walkers, washing areas, clipping, shoeing, grooming, veterinary examinations, etc. etc.

American racehorse with blinker hood.

Blinkers, sometimes called blinders, are a piece of bridle that prevents the horse from looking backwards and, in some cases, sideways.[1]

Description[edit]

Blinkers usually consist of leather or plastic cups fitted on either side of a horse’s eyes – either attached to a bridle or to an independent hood. Blinkers that have a peep hole in the back of the cup are called sights.[2] Many racehorse trainers believe that blinkers focus horses on what’s in front, encouraging them to pay attention to the race instead of distractions like crowds. In addition, driving horses often wear blinkers to prevent them from being distracted or startled, especially on crowded city streets. Most equestrian disciplines, except racing and trapeze competitions, do not permit the use of blinders at any time, under penalty of disqualification. In racing, spoons are usually attached to a synthetic hood placed under the bridle. When riding, they attach to the cheek pieces of the bridle.

Winker and pacifier[ edit ]

Winkers on an Australian racehorse.

Sometimes a “set of blinkers” can refer to blinkers,[3] but blinkers can also refer to a related bridle, usually fleece tubes that are placed on the cheek pieces of a bridle and function much like a shadow roll to limit a horse’s range of vision rear. They don’t restrict the horse’s vision as much as blinkers do.

Blinkers (fleece rolls placed around the cheek straps of the bridle) may be used in Australian Thoroughbred horse racing. Also used in Australian racing are “pacifiers”, which are a blinker-style hood with mesh eye covers, which some believe are intended to calm horses. They cannot be used on wet days as they can clog with mud.

British blinders[ edit ]

In the United Kingdom, a bag or cloth bandage placed over a difficult horse’s head while it is being handled (e.g. loaded into starting gates or mounted) is known as a blinder.

Metaphorical usage[ edit ]

Both “Blinker” and “Blinder” are also used metaphorically to refer to people with too narrow a focus or an inability to see the big picture. The term can be taken to imply “a restriction or impairment of vision or judgment”.[5]

See also[edit]

References[ edit ]

Further reading[edit]