Hot Foot Throttle Adjustment? The 68 Latest Answer

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How do you install a hot foot throttle?

INSERT THROTTLE CABLE TRUNION INTO UPPER TRUNION HOLDER ON SIDE PLATE AND INSTALL COTTER PIN TO RETAIN TRUNION. BEND END OF COTTER PIN TO KEEP IN PLACE. INSERT THROTTLE CABLE TRUNION INTO LOWER TRUNION HOLDER ON SIDE PLATE AND INSTALL COTTER PIN TO RETAIN TRUNION. BEND END OF COTTER PIN TO KEEP IN PLACE.

What does a hot foot do?

This throttle allows you to drive your boat like you do your car. You keep both hands on the wheel and control the throttle with your foot. The throttle returns to idle if you remove your foot. This throttle is a must-have for safe operation of high performance boats.

Checking Hot foot for WOT

features

Drive your boat like a car – Features make driving your boat fun and safe

Number one throttle on the market for over 20 years

Provides additional security and performance

Improves throttle control for all outboard and inboard engines

Lightweight and corrosion resistant

Stainless steel hardware and non-stick Teflon and nylon bearing surfaces for trouble-free operation

Nylon and Teflon bushings on all critical pivot points

The stainless steel spring returns the motor to the idle position when released

Equipped with a toe clip for additional security in extreme conditions

Uses standard control cable for easy hookup (longer throttle cable not included)

Attaches directly to the bottom of the boat with four screws (not included).

Patented idling stop for FICHT and Optimax engines

Optional sliding mount (HFM-1-DP) available for convenience and multiple riders

The original and ONLY genuine HOT FOOT™ gas pedal

Drive your boat safer by driving it like your car. This is the only HOT FOOT™ throttle – the original boat foot throttle, on the market for more than 30 years.

With this throttle you can drive your boat like your car. You keep both hands on the steering wheel and operate the throttle with your foot. The throttle will return to idle when you take your foot off. This throttle control is a must for safe operation of high performance boats.

Download the installation instructions here

Frequently asked questions about Hot Foot

Is there a gas pedal on a boat?

A boat foot throttle is a pedal that is installed and mounted under the steering wheel of the boat, much like a gas pedal in a car, and it is used to control the throttle as opposed to the typical throttle control that is by your hand beside the wheel.

Checking Hot foot for WOT

10 reasons why you need a throttle

Professional anglers and boating enthusiasts may have heard of an accelerator pedal. But what is it and what are some benefits of adding a boat foot throttle to your boat? A boat accelerator pedal is a pedal that installs and mounts under the boat’s steering wheel, much like an accelerator pedal in a car, and it is used to control the throttle, as opposed to the typical throttle control that sits next to your hand is the wheel. If you’ve thought about installing one, you can read our compiled list of 10 Benefits of Boat Throttles.

1. It provides safety when you are thrown out of the boat.

On boats built for high speed or trolling, a hand throttle can be locked and activated. While unlikely, if you are thrown out of the boat while in motion, the foot throttle will not remain activated. Your safety and the safety of the boaters around you will be increased. In addition to your safety vest, your ability to return to your boat in such an event is required, especially if you are sailing alone.

2. It’s like driving a car.

Using your gas pedal is like driving a car. Accelerating and controlling the gas pedal with your foot is natural and taken for granted by many. This can be one of the biggest non-safety benefits of throttle control for boat controls, since you’re probably already very used to controlling your vehicle’s speed with your foot. Build on your years of driving experience to make driving your boat more comfortable.

3. You have a free hand.

Do you need a foot throttle for boats? Maybe. Maybe not. But having a free hand sure is nice, even if it’s just a friendly wave. Having a free hand can make docking easier or more fun if you’re just cruising with friends.

4. You can make better use of navigation accessories.

Using fish finding accessories or GPS often requires navigating through menus. For the professional angler or hobby angler, it often means a hand is wandering through the accessory menus and can’t be on the throttle. Or maybe you’re not an enthusiast and just enjoy browsing through your radio options. A foot throttle frees you one hand to safely navigate these functions while still maintaining complete throttle control.

5. It allows you to keep your hands on 10 and two.

As with driving a car, it’s best to keep your hands on the wheel at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock when boating to ensure proper handling. This is especially true in rough water or when hitting a wave at an unusual angle. Controlling your boat, especially in rough waters, is key to your safety and the safety of those around you. You wouldn’t expect a race car driver to use a hand throttle and easily maintain confident handling and performance. In high performance boats, foot throttle allows for safer and more aware handling.

6. It reduces accidental bumping and throttling.

A hand throttle is usually at arm or elbow height, which can make it prone to impact. An accelerator pedal can reduce accidental bumps, which is an important benefit when there are other people in the boat. Accidental actuation of a hand throttle can also cause someone to be thrown from the boat.

7. The engine will idle when the throttle trigger is not depressed.

Just like in a vehicle, the engine is idling and will not deliver any thrust unless the accelerator is applied. This can make docking easier since you have both hands on the wheel and can maintain or quickly change throttle as you approach the dock.

8. It causes less hand and wrist fatigue.

Using your foot to accelerate reduces hand and wrist fatigue. Using your foot is as natural as driving a car, and you don’t have to keep your hand or wrist in one position next to the steering wheel for long periods of time. This is especially true on longer runs where extra attention may need to be paid to the throttle.

9. It is interchangeable with the hand throttle.

Installing a foot throttle does not mean that you can no longer use the hand throttle. Especially on newer boats where a foot throttle is an option, the hand throttle has a button to remove the control from the hand throttle to use the foot throttle. This allows you to use what you are comfortable with. In addition, if more than one person drives the boat, each person can choose what they feel most comfortable with.

10. It is easy to install and maintain.

Accelerator pedals are easy to install. You can install one in an afternoon or less. Or if you don’t want to install it, it can be easily installed by a professional. Servicing is also easy, as usually only the throttle pivot points need to be greased to ensure smooth operation.

Are you ready?

Now that you have seen the list of benefits of adding a boat foot throttle, you will see that it increases safety and comfort. It gives you the ability to navigate your accessories and not worry about throttle control. It makes driving a boat more like driving a car and helps improve performance and handling. It’s time to get out there and experience the many benefits of using an accelerator pedal today. Check out our range of boat foot throttle controls and enjoy all the benefits that come with owning a throttle!

Discover how adding a gas pedal to your boat makes your life easier and safer!

What is the throttle body?

The throttle body is an important part of your air intake system that controls the air flowing into your engine. It’s located between your air intake and engine manifold where fresh air is pulled into the engine for the combustion process.

Checking Hot foot for WOT

The throttle body is an important part of your air intake system that controls the air entering your engine. It sits between your air intake and the engine manifold, where fresh air is drawn into the engine for the combustion process. The amount of air allowed into the engine during this process is controlled by the throttle. The butterfly valve is a pivoting flat valve that is controlled by the accelerator pedal via cable or wire when controlled electronically. When you step on your pedal, the throttle body opens to allow more air to flow into your manifold. The computer in your vehicle works with sensors to ensure your engine is getting the perfect balance of fuel and air. So what causes this perfect harmony to go wrong? Let’s take a look at some common problems.

Dirt, carbon, and debris can build up in the case and cause airflow issues. Known as coking, normally smooth air travel becomes riddled with goo and creates an imbalance. This disrupts the perfect mix of air and fuel, which can cause the throttle to stick. A stuck valve can cause pressure surges or even stalling. That’s why it’s important to have a good air filter for your vehicle. A fresh filter prevents accumulation of dirt on the surface of the butterfly valve. Poor idling or stalling when stopping is another sign that you may have a problem with your throttle body. At the other end of the spectrum, excessively high idle can result from allowing too much air into the intake system. In some modern fuel-injected cars, an electronic throttle controller monitors the performance of your throttle body. Any problems with this system will trigger the check engine light. The last thing you want is to dampen your engine performance.

To avoid deposits and to maintain the throttle body as best as possible, it is recommended to have an air intake service and a fuel injector flush done. This removes carbon deposits and dirt build-up. Take your vehicle to an ASE certified dealership like Ferber’s Tire and Auto to have your vehicle serviced today!

What is a foot for a boat?

Foot. Definition: The lower extremity of the leg below the ankle, on which a person stands or walks. To a Sailor: The bottom edge of a sail. Block.

Checking Hot foot for WOT

Confusing boat vocabulary

Inevitably you will have a non-sailor on your boat and you will ask him something or refer to something else and he will stare at you with confused eyes. That’s why boating terminology is so much fun, because it’s meant to confuse the non-sailor and make the sailor seem omniscient. Well, that’s not technically true, but a sailor’s vocabulary tends to take words from the English language that already have a meaning and give them a different definition.

Take a look at these boating terms and see if you’ve mastered your boating terminology.

line

Definition: A character or stroke, long in relation to its width, made with a pen, pencil, tool, etc. on a surface or a long, narrow character or band.

To a sailor: A length of rope that has a specific purpose on a boat.

prize

Definition: Grip (something, typically a person’s flesh) firmly and sharply between your finger and thumb. Or on (a touch screen) pinch and spread your fingers and thumbs to zoom in or out on an image, activate a function, etc.

To a sailor: Sailing too close to the wind, causing the sails to luff.

draft

Definition: a preliminary version of a script. Or a process whereby new or existing athletes are made available for selection or re-selection by teams in a league.

For a seaman: the depth of a boat under water. Or the curvature of a sail.

Elevator

Definition: Rising to a higher position or level. Or do cosmetic surgery (especially on the face) to reduce sagging.

To a Sailor: A wind shift where the wind shifts to astern.

Bring

Definition: To go and then bring back (someone or something). Or achieve (a certain price) when selling.

For a sailor: The distance a wind has continuously blown.

beam

Definition: A long, sturdy piece of timber or metal spanning an opening or part of a building, usually to support the roof or floor above. Or a ray or beam of light.

For a sailor: The beam of a boat at its widest point. Or the area of ​​the boat’s sides midway between bow and stern.

boom

Definition: A loud, deep, resonant sound.

For a sailor: The spar that supports the foot of the mainsail

Foot

Definition: The lower end of the leg, below the ankle, on which a person stands or walks

For a sailor: The bottom edge of a sail

block

Definition: A large solid piece of hard material, especially rock, stone, or wood, typically with flat surfaces on each side. Or the main body of an internal combustion engine that contains the pistons.

To a Sailor: A Scroll

follower

Definition: A piece of jewelry hanging from a chain worn around the neck.

To a seaman: A short length of rope or wire used as a connector, e.g. anchor pendant (pronounced pennant)

painter

Definition: A person who paints buildings, walls, ceilings, and woodwork, especially as a profession.

To a sailor: A line attached to the bow of an inflatable boat for mooring or (sometimes) towing

scope

Definition: The scope of the area or topic that something deals with or is relevant to.

To a seaman: The ratio of the length of anchor chain deployed to the vertical distance from the bow of the boat to the bottom.

ride

Definition: The past tense of ride.

To a sailor: The line and/or chain that connects an anchor to the boat.

sheet

Definition: A large rectangular piece of cotton or other fabric used on a bed to cover the mattress and as a layer under duvets when used.

To a sailor: A line used to control the orientation of a sail relative to the boat and the wind.

underpants

Definition: To slide unintentionally (by a person or animal) a short distance, typically losing balance or footing. Or women’s loose-fitting, dress- or skirt-length undergarments, suspended by shoulder straps (full panty) or by an elastic waistband (half panty).

To a Seaman: A berth where a boat docks between piers, pontoons, or pilings.

shroud

Definition: A piece of cloth or enveloping garment in which a dead person is wrapped for burial. Or a thing that envelops or obscures something.

To a sailor: A wire supporting the mast across the boat (side to side).

Stay

Definition: Remaining in a certain state or position.

To a seaman: A piece of standing rigging supporting a mast lengthwise.

thumbtack

Definition: Small, sharp, broad-headed nail.

For a sailor: The lower front corner of a sail. Or change course by turning the bow through the wind. Or a course designation according to which side of the boat the wind is blowing (port or starboard)

Traveller

Definition: A person who travels or travels often.

To a Sailor: A car and track system that allows the mainsheet attachment point to be moved athwartships on the deck. (via the boat from side to side)

RMP Boating Basics 101 Hot Foot

RMP Boating Basics 101 Hot Foot
RMP Boating Basics 101 Hot Foot


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HotFoot Throttle Adjustment Question?

Print Topic HotFoot Throttle Adjustment Question? #5724460 21:29 Joined: Posts: 968 Temple C Cub OP Pro Angler OP Cub Pro Angler C Joined: Posts: 968 Temple I had a blast choosing the props in my boat and I am 100% confident that the Hotfoot has me can’t reach WOT because my RPM’s aren’t where they should be. Engine is a 150 VMAX Carb’d. Here’s my question, where the throttle cable attaches to the hot foot is there a small nut that should snap where you screw the cable end into the hot foot itself. The nut was loose and many threads were exposed. I’ve tried checking the throttle position on the butterflies while pushing the hotfoot down with a broomstick (alone) and I think the butterflies could be opened just a little more to be perfectly horizontal. Can I adjust the acc cable exactly where it goes into the hotfoot to reach WOT by simply screwing the cable end in a little further and then tightening that nut?

Re: HotFoot Throttle Adjustment Question? Subject: Cub] #5726571 2:15 PM Joined: Posts: 1,882 Lake Fork H heybaylor Extreme Angler heybaylor Extreme Angler H Joined: Posts: 1,882 Lake Fork No, the cable should be adjusted so that there is a little slack (just a little ) has the idle stop on your engine. at full idle. lets the spring return it to FULL IDLE

wide open should be set at the foot pedal stop/engine throttle stop.

THEN ADJUST FOOT PEDAL STOP SUITABLE.

This allows for full throttle and prevents your foot from straining/stretching the throttle cable and linkage

heybaylor Re: HotFoot Throttle Adjustment question? Subject: Heybaylor] #5730592 05:51 Joined: Posts: 7169 Quitman, Tx steve@hydrodynamics TFF Celebrity steve@hydrodynamics TFF Celebrity Joined: Posts: 7169 Quitman, Tx Check the screw behind the foot pedal. That’s the pedal stop Heybaylor is talking about.

www.hydrodynamics-usa.com

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903-763-5225

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View Full Version : Can Hotfoot be misaligned?

xb03fs Need to connect and sync to customize Hotfoot?

Is moving 1/8″ to full throttle a lot of power?

Can the Hotfoot be adjusted independently?

zatchmo There should be a full throttle stop on the Hotfoot that you can adjust without changing anything in your engine’s timing and throttle controls if you ask.

Raceman I’m not sure what “1/8 to the throttle stop lots of power” means, but you should open the throttle wide and make sure the carburetors or injectors (as the case may be) are fully open, THEN tighten the stop open the hotfoot to this point. Full throttle adjustment should be made with the cable.

Rodney Nance What everyone else has posted is correct. The thing is to be sure you are WFO with whatever induction system you have. BUT the main thing! mainly! It is important that the gas stop is the hot foot and not the linkage. In the heat of battle, if you’re mashing it harder than testing, let go of the pedal and the engine will keep accelerating. Take it from someone who knows. If the linkage goes past center, it won’t come back no matter how hard you pull back on the throttle.

xb03fs Thanks guys, will have it checked today. I changed the ecu and a mate will help me weather permitting, I still haven’t gotten any extra revs which has worried me.

Forkin’ Crazy Great advice!!! I bet that made for a scary ride!!! :ek:

What everyone else has posted is correct. The thing is to be sure you are WFO with whatever induction system you have. BUT the main thing! mainly! It is important that the gas stop is the hot foot and not the linkage. In the heat of battle, if you’re mashing it harder than testing, let go of the pedal and the engine will keep accelerating. Take it from someone who knows. If the linkage goes past center, it won’t come back no matter how hard you pull back on the throttle.

Jay Smith Sure, on Merc EFI engines there are 2 stops on the engine itself, one for idle and the other for WOT. The Hot Foot can be set to touch its stop before the one on the motor has reached its maximum “throw” distance without giving the motor a full throttle air position. As others said, make sure BOTH stops at WOT your air intake device allowed on either carburetor, throttle, etc. are in sync and wide open to mate with the contact points of both the wot stop on the engine and the wot point on the too correspond hot foot. I’ve seen that if the hot foot throws farther than the wot stop at the block, your foot strength will break down the fragile boss at the wot stop at the block. I strive to set where both hit full airflow at exactly the same time or the hot foot touches its WOT stop a “scoach” earlier than the block stop to protect the block parts…

Much luck,

jay

xb03fs Well the Hotfoot was way off, the Butterfies only opened 2/3 to maybe 3/4. Perhaps this Allison goes beyond the low-to-mid 70s with a 200 2.5

Does this affect holeshot or just WOT performance?

Also, I noticed that 3 wires are disconnected. I will post pictures in a new thread to see them. Two of them seem to go together, but it could be that the mechanic unplugged the idle control module, if not I’ll have to plug it in

altec7777 I know this is a super old post, but how would I go about synchronizing the pedal and throttle linkage? I have the same problem…I’m only getting 5k on a Laser 380, 120 compression across the board, 24 pitch 2.4 200. Coils, wires swapped, all fuel lines replaced and getting good spark.

I should add in pre-mix with all removed modules.

Rock If you come up short on the motor, adjust the bottom stop on the hotfoot to allow for more travel. With the throttle cable disengaged, make sure the control arm hits the throttle stop on the engine before loosening anything.

rock

Krazymaan I’m going to detach the hotfoot from the throttle and move the throttle by hand to make sure the throttle plate(s) are 100% open, just to make sure it’s not the engine-side linkage. Then I will put the pedal on the metal without it connected to the swing arm. But I will check if the cable connections are ok so I have a good starting point and then go from there.

altec7777 Yes, had a chance to check everything. So far everything looks correct. Throttle hits the stopper on the block, butterflies open fully, fuel lines replaced, coils, wires, connectors, everything replaced as well. I guess I’ll take the carbs apart next?

Krazymaan It could be something as simple as a bad plug or two. Or the timing is a little off.

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Checking Hot foot for WOT

I can’t imagine you needing to adjust the TPS. If the Hotfoot comes from the factory, I would also bet it’s properly assembled and adjusted. But just have someone stand on the gas pedal while you look at the throttle linkage. You can see how the stop works on the side of the engine. Does the throttle hit the stop? If not, adjust the hotfoot stop by screwing it in so the pedal goes further down. You just don’t want to put too much pressure on the throttle linkage by going too far on the hotfoot adjustment. You should be able to remove the muffler and see the throttle body. When you’re on the gas pedal does it turn edge by edge so you’re just seeing the edge, or does it cap off the throttle bore a bit by not going quite far enough (or too far, I’ve seen some that would go over level Point which is also not good and can also confuse the ECU with a strange TPS value.)

You want the linkage on the power head to hit the stop when the butterfly opens fully, then you want to hit that stop only slightly when you press the hotfoot pedal all the way against the pedal stop. That’s as good as you can put it. If you want a more thorough test, put a piece of paper between the throttle linkage and the stopper. Stand on the Hotfoot and pull out the paper. It should come out without tearing or requiring a lot of force. If it doesn’t, back off the foot pedal half a turn, lock it, and try again…

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