How To Remove Sublimation Ink From Shirt? Best 51 Answer

Sublimation printing is a fairly new method that creates super vibrant and durable designs on fabric. This process uses heat to bond a special dye to synthetic fibers. But you can also learn how to sublimate on cotton fabrics with a few special tricks!

One of the best ways to sublimate onto cotton is to use heat transfer vinyl between the cotton and the dye. Attaching special sublimation fabric sheets also provides a good workaround for sublimating onto cotton. Printers also use synthetic spray coatings on cotton to help bond the natural fibers with sublimation dyes.

In this article you will learn why sublimation dyes work. You will learn seven techniques for sublimation printing on cotton. Finally, find tips on making your own spray coating to sublimate onto cotton!

Can you sublimate onto 100% cotton fabric?

You cannot sublimate 100% cotton yourself, but you can get around this by applying special treatments to the cotton to make the sublimation process work. These workarounds include using different types of heat transfer vinyl or applying a special coating to the surface of the cotton before using a heat press to start the sublimation process.

Why doesn’t sublimation work on cotton? During the sublimation process, heat causes the sublimation dye to become gaseous. At the same time, the heat also causes the synthetic fibers in the polyester to open up, allowing the gas to slip inside.

As the synthetic fabric cools, the dye reverts to a solid form and the polyester fibers truly close, keeping the dye and fabric chemically bonded at the molecular level.

This process – the actual chemical sublimation – is only possible between sublimation dyes and plastic.

If you try this on pure cotton the design will look great at first. Cotton has a high natural absorbency, so the color absorbs a little and looks nice. But the sublimation ink will wash out of the cotton as soon as it touches water because the chemical bonding process hasn’t taken place.

For a long time, printers and home artists had no choice but to do without cotton T-shirts and hoodies. But recent innovations in printing technology have resulted in several simple methods for successfully sublimating cotton shirts.

This is great news because cotton fabrics often feel much softer and more breathable than synthetics like polyester. For this reason, many t-shirt printers and small business owners prefer to print on cotton.

Sublimation temperature for cotton

Sublimation on cotton requires quite hot temperatures from 360℉ to 400℉. The pressing time varies. You can usually find recommended times and settings for heat pressing on the packaging of your sublimation transfer paper.

Sublimating requires a heat press. You can use a small press like the Cricut EasyPress, but an iron and ironing board don’t apply enough heat and pressure to create a chemical bond.

How to sublimate onto cotton: 7 methods

You can successfully sublimate cotton using several different methods, but the most important thing to keep in mind is that you need some sort of intermediary between the dye and the cotton.

Many home artists like to use vinyl for this. You can also make or buy a special synthetic spray coating for cotton fabrics that works very well.

1. With vinyl

Create your digital design with a graphic design program of your choice. Place a sheet of Siser EasySubli in your sublimation printer and print the image directly onto the vinyl. Siser recommends using a Sawgrass printer and EasySubli ink for best results. Next, place the printed design in a Cricut or other cutting machine to cut out the outline of the design. Remove the excess vinyl. Mask the vinyl by carefully applying a clear masking film with a squeegee. This way you can lift the vinyl design and wear it with your shirt or cotton garment. Line up the vinyl design on your shirt. Place a teflon sheet over the design to protect it during hot pressing. Set your heat press to 311℉. The lower temperature than usual works best on the vinyl surface. Just press the design for 15 seconds.

Special types of thermal transfer vinyl such as Siser EasySubli make a great substitute surface for sublimating onto cotton. Note, however, that you can’t just sublimate to just any old HTV! With sublimation you always need to find the right surface that contains polyester for the dye binding process to take place.

You will find some advantages and disadvantages of this method. The vinyl has a slightly stiff, raised feel on the fabric surface, just like any other HTV application on cotton. But the sublimation process works, and you can safely wash the shirt after using your heat press to seal the Easy Subli onto it!

2. With glitter HTV

Start by creating, editing or downloading an SVG design of your choice. Flip the design so it doesn’t end backwards. Send the design to your electronic cutting machine, cut out and remove the excess vinyl. Apply the glitter vinyl to your cotton surface according to the instructions on the vinyl packaging. Typically you use a heat press to seal the vinyl to the cotton at a temperature of 400ºC for about 60 seconds. Once the cotton has cooled you can proceed to the sublimation part of this method. If you haven’t already done so, print your design onto sublimation transfer paper. You will need a sublimation printer for this. Place the transfer paper printed side down so it lines up perfectly with the vinyl cutout on the cotton. You can use heat resistant tape to keep the design aligned. Set your heat press again to 400C for about 60 seconds. You should now have a colourful, glittery design on your shirt!

Before commercial products like EasySubli came along, home printers had already figured out a way to sublimate cotton with white glitter HTV. You have to like glitter to try this method, but the cool thing is that the tiny glitter particles on the surface of this heat transfer vinyl contain polyester, which allows for the sublimation process!

The downside to sublimating onto HTV is that you have to do that extra step of cutting and weeding the vinyl before applying the design to the cotton. But the big advantage is that you can use this method on any shirt color. Actual sublimation only works on white or light-colored fabric, but you can also apply Glitter HT to black or dark-colored fabric!

Also, if you wanted to make an intricate design out of HTV only, you would have to cut out many pieces for each color of vinyl. This way you can simply ink on white glitter vinyl to create a multicolored design!

3. With spray coating

The most popular professional method of sublimating cotton is to apply a synthetic coating to the surface of the cotton and then proceed with the sublimation process. Popular coating sprays like Poly T get good reviews, although you might find them a little pricey.

With this method you use two sprays. The first removes the sizing from the cotton shirt and the second creates a synthetic surface for the sublimation transfer.

Start by spraying the shirt thoroughly until it feels damp. Set your heat press to 330℉ and place a cotton cloth over the bottom platen if you have a clamshell press. If you have a small press, place a cotton cloth on your flat pressing surface. Spread a piece of parchment paper over the top of the damp shirt. Hold the press for 30 seconds. Steam comes out as the spray removes the size from the cotton shirt. Next, apply a second coat of the spray to the shirt. Apply again the 330° heat press for 30 seconds to fix the coating. After cooling, you should feel a plastic surface on the fabric. Place a piece of parchment or butcher paper under the cotton shirt. Line up your sublimation transfer on top of the cotton fabric, then place another piece of parchment or butcher paper on top for protection. Set your heat press to 385℉ and apply pressure for 70 seconds to allow the sublimation process to take place.

One of the challenges you face when using a spray coating like PolyT is that the coating tends to attract dust. Even a small speck of dust or dirt will leave a mark on your design, so try to work in a dust-free environment!

4. With sublimation fabric sheets

Sublimation fabric sheets like Forever Subli Light allow you to most closely mimic the appearance of actual sublimation on polyester fabric. These lightweight sheets don’t form a thick barrier like HTV, making it appear as if the dye has actually penetrated the cotton fabric.

Additionally, using these special panels of fabric does not require the complex cutting process used at HTV!

Create or download a colorful vector design. Make sure you mirror the design before printing. Place the blank side of the fabric sheet, printed side down, in your sublimation printer and print the design onto the sheet. Prepare your shirt by pre-ironing it for 15 or 20 seconds. This creates a smooth, wrinkle-free surface for your design. Align the printed fabric sheet where you want it on the shirt. Cover it with a piece of parchment paper or a silicone press mat. Press for 30 seconds at a temperature of 365℉. Peel off the transfer paper while it is still hot. Immediately apply finish paper and press again for 30 seconds. You can get either matte or gloss finishing paper that will help seal the design in permanently.

The only catch with using these fabric sheets is that you have to use very bright vector designs. They must have a CMYK color value of at least 150%, which you can check on your printer. You need bold, vibrant colors for this method to show off well.

5. On dark cotton

You can use HTV white glitter and Siser EasySubli to create bright, vibrant sublimation designs on dark cotton. For step-by-step instructions on how to use these two methods, read the sections above!

The cool thing about using a medium between the sublimation and the cotton is that you can use it to add a white background. This allows you to apply colorful designs to dark or black fabrics, which you cannot do when sublimating directly onto polyester fabric.

6. With Cricut

The best way to use a Cricut as part of the sublimation process is to cut out a white glitter HTV shape and then apply sublimation transfer paper over the glitter.

If you want a bright, multicolored design, you probably don’t want to create it out of vinyl. You would have to cut out many tiny pieces of different colors from vinyl and then put them together like a puzzle! For this reason, most printers will use one, two, or three color HTV designs when they want to use vinyl on a shirt.

But if you add the step of applying a sublimation transfer to the vinyl, you can use whatever colors you want!

Check out these tips to get the best result when using your Cricut for sublimation:

For a glitter look, use types of white glitter HTV that contain polyester. You can read the product descriptions carefully or buy glitter HTV specially made for sublimation.

Alternatively, you can use Cricut’s dedicated line of Infusible Inks. You need to buy accessories from Cricut, but with them you can easily master sublimation on HTV.

Other vinyl products like Siser EasySubli work great with certain printers like the Sawgrass models, but deliver excellent results because they’re specifically designed for sublimation.

7. With silhouette

Once you have your design ready, leave an image in color for printing and create a transparent outline for cutting. You can easily do this using the tools in the Silhouette program. If your design includes lettering, make sure to mirror it. Cut out the outline of the shape on the white HTV with your silhouette. Follow the instructions on the HTV packaging to apply the vinyl to your shirt with your heat press. Print the color design onto a sublimation transfer paper using a Sawgrass sublimation printer. Set your heat press to 400℉. Carefully place the transfer paper, printed side down, onto the vinyl. Spread a protective Teflon sheet over the transfer paper. Apply the heat press for one minute.

Will sublimation wash out of cotton?

The Silhouette Cameo line works much like a Cricut machine, allowing you to cut out vinyl shapes for heat transfer to use as the base for your sublimation cotton print. Brother makes the Silhouette electronic cutting machines, which have an excellent reputation in the crafting world. Also, they come with a very nice design product called Silhouette Software that you can use to create your sublimation printing designs.

Sublimation will wash out of cotton when attempting to seal the sublimation transfers onto untreated fabric. This happens because the synthetic sublimation dye cannot chemically bond with the all-natural cotton fibers.

But you can sublimate onto cotton by creating a synthetic surface on the fabric. If you apply a coating spray to the cotton before sublimating or use HTV vinyl, sublimation will take place and the dye will not wash out of the cotton.

Why did my sublimation ink fade after washing?

Sublimation ink can fade after washing for a number of reasons including poor quality transfer paper or improper heat settings. One of the main reasons sublimation printing is used is that it creates permanent, vibrant designs on fabric. The sublimation process bonds deeply with the fabric and creates a more durable print than any other method on the market today.

But something can go wrong resulting in the ink fading rather than maintaining that vibrant and lasting hold on the fabric.

Leaving a print in the heat press for too long can cause fading. You may need to test temperatures and times on a few t-shirts to get the right settings.

Cheap transfer paper can also produce unprofessional or faded prints. Make sure you use authentic sublimation transfer paper for this process.

Finally, printing onto untreated cotton or a 50/50 blend of polycotton will also result in a faded design.

Can you sublimate to 50/50?

You can sublimate onto 50/50 fabric if you want a slightly worn, vintage style design. Using a cotton and polyester blend fabric is a popular way to get the best of both worlds in the printing industry. You get the sublimation ability of polyester while retaining the softness and breathability of cotton.

However, you should expect some fading to occur during the first few washes as any design that touches the cotton fibers in the blend will be washed away.

For this reason, it may be more practical to sublimate onto fabric blends that contain 65% polyester and only 35% cotton.

How to make poly t spray for sublimation?

You can make your own version of Poly T-Spray for sublimation with polyacrylic.

Poly T is a commercial product that is one of the most popular treatments used by anyone doing sublimation prints on cotton. It contains a polyester resin that encapsulates the cotton fibers, allowing the dye to sublimate and bind to a synthetic surface.

The downside to this spray is that it’s often quite expensive, so many enterprising home artists prefer to mix up a DIY spray coating.

If you want to try making your own coating, try this recipe:

Measure 8 ounces of room temperature water into a disposable bowl. Add two tablespoons of polyacrylic. You can find this at most hardware or craft stores. Don’t shake the can until you’ve scooped out the two tablespoons. Gently stir the water and polyacrylic together in your disposable bowl or cup. Pour the liquid into a spray bottle.

Best sublimation paper for cotton

Sourcing the best cotton sublimation paper will help you get quality results no matter which of the seven methods in this article you choose!

Siser EasySubli This extremely popular product allows you to print designs directly onto this special form of thermal transfer vinyl. It adheres to cotton, polycotton blends or polyester. You can use it to apply sublimation printing to cotton or sublimation designs to dark colored polyester. This product works best with the popular line of Sawgrass sublimation printers, but you can use it in other sublimation printers as long as you use sublimation dyes. This matte thermal transfer vinyl combines with sublimation dye to create bold, vibrant designs that hold up well after many wash cycles.

Printer’s Jack Inkjet Sublimation Paper If you want to do a traditional sublimation transfer print and then apply it to glitter HTV on your cotton shirt, try this excellent inkjet sublimation paper! This paper is compatible with most major sublimation printers including the Epson range and Sawgrass models. Of course, you should not apply these transfers directly to 100% cotton fabrics. You need an intermediate layer such as B. Use white glitter HTV between the transfer and the cotton for good results.

Best sublimation spray for cotton

You can find many other brands of spray coatings for sublimating onto cotton, but the brand that most professionals prefer is called Poly T Pro. You can buy a concentrate to mix with water and spray, or buy the product in a ready-to-use spray bottle. Poly T Pro allows you to quickly apply a coated layer to the top of cotton fabric. You can then apply a sublimation transfer page to this coating and seal it to the fabric! You can use a heat press to set the PolyT coating or throw the shirt in the dryer for a few minutes.

Conclusion

Although you cannot sublimate directly onto 100% cotton, you can create high quality sublimation designs on cotton material using HTV cutouts or by applying special synthetic spray coatings. One of the easiest methods for sublimating cotton at home is to cut out white glitter transfer vinyl, glue it to the cotton, and then place the sublimation transfer on top of the glitter vinyl. Using a spray coating on the cotton also gives you an easy way to tie sublimation dye onto cotton.

You must use special products designed for sublimation onto cotton. You can buy sublimation fabric sheets that work on cotton. You can also find sublimation vinyl, which is receptive to sublimation dyes and adheres to cotton.

Spread the word!

Creating sublimation projects is fun and easy, but when you encounter these common sublimation problems, it can get stressful. These are the most common sublimation problems that almost everyone has experienced. We’ll discuss how to avoid these common sublimation mistakes, what causes them, and how to fix them so you can get back to making your own mugs, mugs, garden flags, and other sublimation products.

banding

When you print your sublimation transfer and notice a visible line or an area that is blank and missing the print, this is known as banding. It is caused by a clogged print nozzle so when printing the ink is not spit out and this causes this band of blank outputs.

Banding can be caused by dried ink in the printhead, a blockage in the line preventing ink from reaching the printhead, or a damaged printhead. It’s a good idea to use your printer often so that the ink on the print head doesn’t dry up or run out completely. If you have a Sawgrass dye-sublimation printer, it can service itself, so it is recommended to keep this printer powered on at all times.

If you have a printer that doesn’t support these self-maintenance cycles, just print a sublimation transfer every now and then. Some people recommend a few times a week, which is enough to ensure the ink on the printhead doesn’t dry out.

So how do you know that the banding is caused by a printhead problem? You simply print a nozzle check and check for missing lines in the printed pattern. Go to your printer’s control panel and look for the option to print a nozzle check.

If your nozzle check print is missing lines, you may need to clean your printhead by printing an entire page borderless to free the line. After full border printing, do a nozzle check print again to see if that solves the problem. If lines are still missing, you may need to clean the printhead with denatured alcohol. Watch this video for instructions on how to do this.

If the problem persists, try these Sawgrass steps (fix missing rows) or contact Sawgrass Technical Support for assistance. They will give you a step-by-step solution and if they can’t solve your problem, they can replace your printer if it’s still under warranty. My older SG400 had to be replaced due to the same issue.

Pinwheels on printed sublimation transfers

Pinwheels are also called roller brands and pizza wheel brands. These are the dotted lines that will be printed on your sublimation transfers and will also be transferred to your sublimation blank when you press on it. This is caused by the ink on your paper not drying fast enough for the wet ink to be picked up by the roller and printed onto the rest of the paper.

Make sure you are using the correct paper recommended by your printer manufacturer as it has been tested to work with it. If you have a rebuilt Epson printer, try a different weight and see if it works better for you. Turning off high-speed printing will also slow down your printer so your ink has some time to dry so it doesn’t get on the platen.

Printed transfers are not alive

If your printed sublimation transfers are matte, this can either be normal or a problem. Usually printed transfers are matte, but once you press them properly onto your sublimation blank the colors should be vibrant.

But if your pressed sublimation blank still has a dull image, then it could be due to one of the following:

You printed on the wrong side of the paper – most sublimation paper has a watermark on the back, so make sure you print on the unwatermarked side. If using paper without a watermark, look for the side with the lightest/whitest side; This is usually the side you want to print on. You are not using sublimation ink – make sure you actually received ink made for sublimation. Missing ICM Profile – Some sublimation ink manufacturers provide an ICM profile so check it and make sure you have downloaded it or you are using the most current version. Your image is not of high quality – check your graphic and see if it is clear and vibrant to begin with. Images that are small or of poor quality will result in a poor quality print.

Check out our FREE sublimation files for high quality sublimation designs that are free to download and use!

The pressed sublimation image is a different color than the design on the computer

If your computer monitor is showing a different colored design than what you are pressing onto your sublimation blank, it may be due to a missing ICM profile. Contact your ink manufacturer to obtain an updated ICM profile and download it to your computer.

Often what you see on your computer screen is not what you see on your pressed sublimation blank. Computer screens process and display colors differently than what our eyes see on actual physical products. Calibrating your screen is possible and requires professional editing software to do it properly.

Other possible causes may be that your heat press is not at the correct or high enough temperature, or is not using a blank that can be sublimated. As discussed in our What is Sublimation Printing post, the heat press needs to reach the right temperature for the ink to gasify and adhere to your sublimation blank. Read more about the necessary transfer press temperatures here.

The design was not transferred to the sublimation blank

The most exciting moment is when you finally peel off that sublimation transfer to see the image on your sublimation blank. When you then only see a hint of yellow residue instead of the design on your blank, that’s such a disappointment. If you see this happening, it could be because:

The ink you are using is not suitable for sublimation – check your ink to make sure it is suitable for sublimation and not just regular inkjet. The blank you printed the design on does not have enough polyester material or coating to hold the sublimation ink – make sure your sublimation blanks are actually made for sublimation. The heat wasn’t high enough to turn the ink from the sublimation transfer into gas – check the temperature of your heat press with an infrared thermometer and make sure it’s high enough for the sublimation process. You need to be closer to 380 degrees and higher for the sublimation ink to turn into gas. Not enough time was used for the sublimation process – most sublimation blanks need about 1 minute and more heat. This time also depends on what you are pressing. Therefore, contact your supplier of sublimation blanks.

ghosting and bleeding

Ghosting and bleeding is a common sublimation mistake and is common for both beginners and advanced sublimators. This is when the design of your pressed sublimation blank has some shadowing or blurring around its edges instead of being clear. Some causes of these ghosting and bleeding from sublimation are:

There might be some moisture on the sublimation blank, so the moisture when pressing prevented the ink from fully transferring. A simple fix for this is to pre-press your blank for about 10 seconds to dry out the moisture. The shifting of your sublimation transfer when opening the press can also cause ghosting. This is because your sublimation blank is still hot enough to pick up the sublimation ink from your transfer that has just moved or shifted. To avoid this, make sure your transfer adheres well to your blank so it doesn’t shift when you open your heat press. Slowly opening your press also reduces the likelihood of the transmission shifting. If you are not using blow-out film to cover your sublimation transfer, your design can actually be transferred to the hot plate which is then re-transferred to your next sublimation blank. So make sure you use a new and clean blown film every time you use your heat press.

Blank or light areas in the pressed sublimation blank

If you are seeing a blank or lighter area in your pressed sublimation print, this could be due to uneven heat from your heat press or moisture on your sublimation blank. Sublimation requires fairly consistent, high heat to get it to come out right. Moisture prevents this even heat, so your design isn’t fully transferred to your blank. Here are some ways to avoid those blank areas on your pressed sublimation blank:

Use an infrared thermometer to check multiple areas of your heat press to see if there is a cold spot. Eliminate moisture on your sublimation blank by pre-pressing it for about 10 seconds. Avoid using Teflon as a blowout film as it can trap moisture. It works well for vinyl but not for sublimation. Use a plain white blowout paper. Uneven pressure from your press can also be a cause. When using a clamshell heat press to sublimate something thick like cutting boards or slabs of slate, the area toward the back of the heat press can have more pressure than the front of the press.

Lines around the design on your sublimated shirt or towels

Soft sublimation blanks such as shirts, towels, canvas and neoprene do not require heavy pressure in the heat press. The edges of sublimation transfer paper can leave a line on your soft blanks if you press too hard. You can prevent this line by using less pressure on your heat press, ripping the edges of the paper so it’s not a hard solid edge, and using a lint roller after pressing to fluff up the flattened fibers of your blank.

Coming Soon: Sublimation Tutorial Video on how to sublimate kitchen towels without press lines.

Sublimation design is faded on the sublimation shirt

As per our section What is Sublimation Printing? Your guide to the dye sublimation process, your sublimation blanks must be polyester or have a polymer coating to allow the sublimation ink to transfer and adhere to your blank. Sublimation works best for 100% polyester shirts or fabrics as it produces the most vibrant colors. The less polyester in the fabric, the lighter your design will be on it. But this lighter/faded sublimated image can work if you’re looking for a vintage look!

Check out the color difference of these sublimated designs on shirts with different polyester content:

If you’ve sublimated a cotton shirt and it looks good right away, remember that the design will eventually wash off after a few washes. This is because the sublimation ink is only permanently transferred to the polyester portion of the fabric.

Bruising on the fabric after sublimating the design

If you ever see those little bruises on your shirt or other soft sublimation blanks like towels and canvas bags, they are lint that has been heat pressed. The bad news is that these bruises are permanently inked on your sublimation blank and cannot be removed by washing. To prevent this, roll your blank with a lint roller before pre-pressing, and then lint roller twice more! It’s important to do this more than once as lint is everywhere.

If you encounter other common sublimation problems and issues not covered above, please do not hesitate to contact us.

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“Sub-li-what-now?!” If you’ve ever wondered what this odd-looking word actually means – then wonder no more.

No, it’s not an underwater warship or screen translations to help you understand a foreign film; It is a high-tech printing process used primarily for print-on-demand apparel. Today we’re going to take it apart – we’ll cover what it is, how it works, the pros and cons, when to use it – and when not to use it.

What is sublimation?

Let’s start with the broad strokes. What exactly is sublimation?

Simply put, it is a printing method that uses ink and heat to transfer a design onto a material or fabric.

It’s a game changer in the apparel world as it allows for the printing of entire garments – designs that go from seam to seam.

The sublimation printing process

How does sublimation work? Well, sublimation printing uses heat to essentially bring the ink and fabric together as one.

First, a design is printed on special paper. The inks used become gaseous when heated, then bond with the fabric and permanently print onto the fabric. The effects are permanent and less prone to fading because the ink is embedded in the fabric or substrate rather than simply placed on top of it like a regular print.

The process is almost like a tattoo but not for your skin but for your chosen product. The heat opens the pores of the fabric, then the pressure applied cools the ink and returns to a solid form.

The result is a permanent, full-color image that will not crack, peel, or wash off the substrate. The process allows the ink to go from a solid to a gas without turning to liquid, a bit like dry ice. The conversion is initiated by heat and controlled by pressure.

This fast and effective digital printing method is becoming increasingly popular for smaller runs and those designs that rely on detail. Sublimation printing is also known as “all-over printing” because you can choose a design that can literally go from seam to seam.

Images courtesy of the Global Orphan Project, obtained through Flickr under a Creative Commons 2.0 license.

Although mostly popular for print-on-demand t-shirts, the process is also available for ceramics, wood and metals, etc. that have been given a special coating to hold the sublimation ink.

The pros and cons

The professionals

The most exciting advantage of this method is alone the freedom you have in your designs that other methods don’t always offer.

On one side of the spectrum, you can get as crazy as you like. Why not print an entire t-shirt that looks like a burger? Or a cat flying over a (nicely printed) galaxy background?

Likewise, you might want to keep it classy with a photo of a famous skyline or landscape. The possibilities are almost endless, so you will keep coming back.

The longevity of the design is a plus, with a design that won’t crack, peel or fade. Even after countless washes, your garment will never degrade at the back of your closet!

Sublimation printing is suitable for short run jobs, seam-to-seam designs and garments with a large number of design variations and applications.

The disadvantages

The main disadvantages were the choice of materials. Sublimation printing is only suitable for garments containing polyester (100% polyester or polyester blend). Although sublimation is possible on other materials such as cotton, as it is on man made fabrics the image is not permanent and it is not recommended.

If you want to go for the vintage/distressed look that’s all the rage these days, choosing a fabric with a lower polyester content would give you that finish.

Another potential problem to watch out for is white wrinkles. With sublimation, a design is printed onto white fabric and if there are areas of the garment that the design doesn’t reach, they remain white. This can be caused by accidental creases or small amounts of moisture collecting on the transfer paper.

Image Source: https://inktale.com/help/artist-assistance/all-over-printing

Designs that work well with sublimation printing

Sublimation printing is particularly good at creating whimsical, dramatic and almost ridiculous designs – a massive trend in recent years, seen in both high-end and low-end stores.

For example:

Photo credit: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:T-Shirt_sublimation.jpg

Now this t-shirt probably fits under quirky, dramatic AND ridiculous. And the sublimation printing made the full effect possible. The t-shirt is fully covered in design and uses a vibrant color palette.

The repeated design below works well too. Again, due to the full coverage aspect of the design, the pattern of the print is carried over the entire t-shirt, using only the ends of the garment as natural finishing points.

Another type of design that works particularly well with sublimation printing is photo prints. The method allows you to fill the entire area with the photo instead of just placing it squarely on the front of the garment.

For example:

The tank top above uses the image of the flower and a more muted background (because if you can fill the entire tank top, why not?)

Photography was also used for the design below, mapping an entire landscape onto the t-shirt, which is particularly effective given the angles used.

Sublimation also works well when your garment calls for several different logos or designs. With traditional printing, you can be billed for each individual logo application – while with sublimation, large numbers can be incorporated and printed in one go.

Designs that will not work with sublimation printing

Color blocked designs or designs that require extremely precise placement may not work as well with sublimation printing. For designs with slogans, direct printing (DTG) may work better. DTG printing is essentially like a regular printer, but only for t-shirts. So the garment is fed through a special flatbed printer and the designs are applied.

If you only need a logo in the center of your garment, sublimation may not be the ideal way just because it’s generally more expensive to “print all over” than to put a logo front and center.

One of the keys to using sublimation printing effectively is understanding the limitations of the method and choosing a design wisely. By reading through the pros and cons and looking at the examples above you should be able to decide if the design you have in mind would work with sublimation printing or if you are better off going with DTG.

Sign up for free today, learn more about selling on a Shopify Print on Demand store, or browse our range of dropshipping sublimation products.

Sublimation is a quick and easy way to transform the look of a t-shirt, mug or frame from plain to fun.

One of the most common questions about this process is “Can you sublimate via sublimation?”, which is particularly popular with people who want to combine two designs.

This is technically called sublimation layering, which we’ll discuss in the guide below.

Can you sublimate via sublimation?

Technically, the answer is yes. Any material that has already accepted sublimation dye can accept it again.

The issue isn’t whether it’s possible to sublimate over an existing sublimation, but whether it will look like you intended it to.

The ideal situation for this to work properly is that you are sublimating over a pre-printed design that is only one color while the material background color is white and make sure you are using the best possible sublimation printer.

When you sublimate over a sublimated design with multiple colors, the result might not look good due to issues like:

The old and new colors blend into a messy and unflattering mix when reheated.

Bleeding of color(s) from old design to new.

The new design will pick up some of the color from the old design as the new layer is heated for sublimation.

How to sublimate in layers

Whether it’s a mug, t-shirt, frame or any other item you want to sublimate, you may want to put more than one design on it. It could be a name or picture on a fun background, or two patterns that look cute together.

The following steps will show you how you can easily sublimate more than one layer of heat transfer/sublimation paper onto an item with as little unwanted interference as possible:

You’ll need your heat press, heat transfer paper with the designs on it, scissors, regular masking tape, and some good quality double-sided tape.

Step 2: Find out the position of the layers

Grab your sublimation paper and plan out where each layer should go. Find out the position of the design that is relevant to each other and to the object you are sublimating.

For example, let’s say you’re sublimating a t-shirt and you have a “Happy Holidays” design and a snowy background design. We assume the goal is for the final design to show “Happy Holidays” over the snowy background.

To do this, place the “Happy Holidays” sublimation paper on top of the paper with the snow motif. Make sure you place the “Happy Holidays” exactly where you want it to be over the background.

Tip: During this step, you should also trim the edges of the top design paper.

If you’re looking for a high level of fade, trim very close to the phrase. If you want the sentence to stand out more against the background, leave about an inch of paper around the sentence.

Step 3: Glue the top layer(s) onto the bottom layer

When you are sure that the phrase paper is positioned over the background and the subject, measure the position of the top paper relevant to the background paper.

Next, remove the heat transfer papers from the item and grab the double-sided tape. Cut a strip or two of the tape and place them on the back of the top sublimation paper.

Then take the top sublimation paper and stick it on the background sublimation paper where you measured it.

Tip: Be as accurate as possible with the measurements and positioning of the top paper before sticking it onto the background paper.

This is because you probably won’t be able to remove it without ruining the design as the tape will pick up some ink from the background paper.

Tip: You can do this with multiple top layers, but be careful not to overdo it or the design will end up being too loud.

Step 4: Stick the paper on the item

Once you’ve glued your sublimation papers together, transfer them to the t-shirt and glue the background paper (now enclosing the top paper) to the shirt.

Step 5: Run the heat press

Finally, run the heat press as usual. When the time is up, remove the paper from the t-shirt and you should see the two designs layered nicely without any problems.

Wrap up

The sublimation process is fairly straightforward at first if your designs are simple.

But as you try more complex designs, you’ll come across a whole host of questions like “Can you sublimate over sublimation?” and the rest of the queries in today’s article.

The good news is we always have answers! You just have to look them up.

This post and photos may contain Amazon or other affiliate links. If you buy something through a link, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Material used may be made available to me free of charge, but all projects and opinions are my own.

I’ve actually played around with shirt bleaching a number of times, so I wanted to make a comparison of different methods for you. I use sublimation, HTV and even some masking techniques so literally EVERYONE can have a bleached shirt in their life! Grab your bleach bottle and start creating unique shirts that are perfect for you and can be given as gifts.

Looking for a different look? Try making a sublimation tie-dye shirt instead!

bleach shirts

Want to start bleaching shirts? The easiest way to do this is to watch the video below. Just click play and everything you ever wanted to know about the bleaching process is included. You may also hear this process referred to as reverse tie dye. You will definitely learn how to do this process in the video below too!

Can’t watch the video or missed some of the steps? You can also follow below as I walk you through everything you need to know.

Supplies are needed:

Designs or SVG files I used:

Ways to bleach a shirt

There are several ways to make shirts with bleach spray. I will cover some of the methods and which are my favorites as well. Please see the shirt brand options I mention in the listing. I’m not sure if other brands will work as well.

safety tips

First, as you are working with bleach and chemicals, let’s talk about some safety tips. Always work outdoors and wear gloves to protect your hands. I also have recommendations for stopping the bleaching process below. Please be sure to follow these instructions and wash your shirts a few times after the process to remove excess chemicals.

You should also wear clothing and shoes during the process to protect your skin. I like wearing old clothes so I’m not worried about bleach getting on it. Even a little bleach can ruin your clothes!

Preparing your shirt

You should prepare your empty shirt inside with some cardboard or even a plastic garbage bag. You don’t want your bleached area to show up on the back of your shirt as well. I like to use scrap boxes, but anything you have on hand that is disposable will work for this. Otherwise the only other preparation would be if you add a mask or sublimation before bleaching. You can read more about this below.

Bleach with a spray bottle

First, let’s spray a shirt with a regular spray bottle filled with undiluted bleach. Spray an area on the front for your design that you will add later or over an existing design. Use the design as a guide for how big the bleached area should be. I also like to squirt the bottle a bit over the shirt during this time.

Once your shirt has been sprayed, take paper towels and lightly blot the large front area to remove excess bleach. After the front has sat for a few minutes, be sure to turn the shirt inside out and spray the back a little to make it fit. I like doing the back of the shirt as well as the front.

Bleaching with a brush

Instead of using a spray bottle, you might have more control with a brush. Put your bleach in a container and simply apply with the brush. I find I like to spray the edges with the spray bottle too, just so they’re not so perfect. Once your shirt has been sprayed, take paper towels and lightly blot the large front area to remove excess bleach.

Also, after sitting for a while, you may have to go over the area again if you haven’t gotten a good coat on it. You should also spray the entire shirt with the spray bottle to get a few spots on the front and back of the shirt.

Using a cardboard mask

You can also use the spray bottle method with a cardboard mask. Here I cut out my circle from an old piece of cardboard and simply placed it on the shirt. Spray the circle well. Take off your mask and squirt around the outer edge of the circle as well as all over the shirt for a more imperfect look. Remember to take paper towels after your shirt has been sprayed and lightly blot the large front area to remove excess bleach.

Application for a sublimation design

You can use any of the above methods to apply bleach to a shirt that already has a sublimation design on it. In general, I like to use my design as a guide when applying my bleach. The same notes above on methods apply as you can use any of them on your sublimation shirts.

Bleach over a mask

You can also add a variety of masks to your shirt and apply bleach directly to these. Here I used self-adhesive vinyl cut on my Cricut machine as a mask and applied bleach over it with a spray bottle.

How to stop the bleaching process

After applying your bleach, let your items sit in the sun and work their magic. You should see your shirts start to change color. With the help of the sun, the bleaching process is accelerated. You can actually stop the bleaching process at any time. So you can whiten the spots or stop if they are another color that you love. To stop the bleaching process, mix 1/2 hydrogen peroxide and 1/2 water in a container. Soak your shirt and give it a really good rinse. Then wash your shirt twice in the washing machine to remove any residue.

FAQs:

When bleaching shirts, you may have a variety of questions about the process or problems you encountered. Here are some of those questions answered, but feel free to ask other questions in the comments section below.

Which shirts are best for bleaching?

You need a shirt with at least some polyester, as cotton shirts can get holes. For the sublimation I use a soft Gildan style. It is 65% polyester, 35% cotton. The ones I use HTV on are a Bella+Canvas shirt, but it’s 52% cotton and 48% polyester. For longevity I would use at least a part polyester shirt. Please note that some colours/brands/types simply do not bleach. I’m linking to the ones I’m using above and I know these will work. However, if you plan on buying a lot of shirts, I would test each one before bulk ordering.

Can you bleach a cotton shirt?

It is NOT recommended as they can puncture very quickly and do not usually hold up. Please see the question above for my recommendations.

Should you bleach before or after sublimation?

You can do both! I have a feeling that post-sublimation bleaching results in a more “worn” look. In other words, if you bleach before sublimation, the colors will be more vibrant. You can see a bit of it in the image below. The shirts on the top have been bleached and then sublimated, while those on the bottom have been sublimated and then bleached. You can get a different look by changing the process just a little bit.

Can you use self-adhesive vinyl as a mask?

Definitive! There’s a really rustic and worn look to it, but if that’s what you love then I say go for it! If you want a distressed shirt look, this is the option to go for!

Can HTV be applied to a bleached shirt?

Yes! Simply apply the HTV after the shirt has bleached. I use the size of the design to approximate my bleached area.

How long does the whitening process take?

It totally depends on the shirt and the color you want to achieve. However, I would say between 20 minutes and an hour on average.

Why didn’t my shirt turn white?

Some shirts simply WILL NOT turn white. Others require multiple applications of bleach before achieving anything remotely white. It all depends on the shirt and the color it starts with. Maybe try a pure white or you can always stop the bleaching process if you just really love the color your shirt is.

Why is my shirt singed when ironed?

Sometimes adding sublimation or even HTV after bleaching can scorch your shirt. Here you will see a faint brown mark where you pressed. Don’t worry! You can get rid of that! Spray your shirt with some hydrogen peroxide and put it under the heat press just to warm it up (don’t press again) and the stains should go away.

My favorite way to bleach shirts

So, now that we’ve looked at a number of ways to bleach shirts, which ones do I love? Which ones will I keep using? I have to say I really love the method where I sublimate before bleaching and then use a brush over my sublimation design. I had to go over the center twice in this case, but the results are stunning!

Personally, I actually like that the sublimation ink fades a bit as it adds to the rustic nature of the process. Also, it took me a while to get the hang of spraying the shirt all over with the spray bottle, but I really think I mastered it on this one too. This is a great way to sublimate onto a dark shirt.

My other shirt that I sublimated before bleaching looked good too, but I probably over-bleached it a bit, at least for my liking. But this shows you that you can get any look you love after mastering the technique.

Sublimation after bleaching is a great option, but I find it harder to control where the design is and how big your bleached areas will be.

Also, there’s the burning issue we discussed above. You can use peroxide to get rid of that, but you run the risk of leaving it on your shirt when sublimating after the bleaching process.

My second favorite method of bleaching shirts is to add HTV at the top. I love how this result turned out and I definitely think using the cardboard mask in this case helped me locate and size my bleached area.

And if you’re looking for something more rustic I’d try adding self-adhesive vinyl as a mask. This shirt looks well worn and loved and is brand new!

I’m looking forward to hearing from you. Which of these shirts did you like the most? Which method will you try yourself? Will you make your own bleach spray shirt?

I’ll rock my new bleached t-shirts and figure out how to make some more designs. What should I do next? I am literally full of ideas for this method.

Shirt bleaching is fun and actually quite easy once you get the hang of it, so be sure to try it yourself. I truly believe you will love the results!

Acetone can be used to remove annoying ink stains from shirts and other clothing. Credit: CasarsaGuru/iStock/GettyImages

Although many people know that acetone removes nail polish, they may not know that it has many other uses as well. Acetone is a solvent used in other household products such as personal care products and cosmetics. It’s also a highly effective stain remover, regardless of what household product you have that contains it.

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Remove stains with acetone

The most obvious type of stain that acetone can remove is nail polish itself, but it’s also good for removing paint and ink stains. When using acetone this way, you have to be very careful. While you can use acetone on cotton clothing or other man-made materials, you shouldn’t apply it to fine natural fibers like wool or silk. Read the label first to see if the item is washable. Also, if the fabric contains acetate, modacrylic, or triacetate, use a non-acetone nail polish remover.

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If the stain is still wet, blot with a clean, white cloth to remove as much of the stain as possible. For washable fabrics, use a white cloth or clean sponge and dab some acetone. Work with a light hand from the outside in, using clean parts of the sponge or cloth for each movement.

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When you can no longer see the stain, rinse with cold water and wash as usual. To remove ink stains, combine one part acetone and two parts water, dip in a cotton ball, and blot the ink stain until it disappears.

Acetone on black clothes

Can you use acetone on black clothes? The answer is yes, but you may not have much success. Most experts agree that this doesn’t work as well as using acetone on lighter colored fabrics.

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If you are trying a cleaning product on fabric, test it on a small, inconspicuous spot first. Just dab a bit and see if it changes color or damages the fabric in any way. You can also try using non-acetone nail polish remover on black clothing, but there is no guarantee that this will be successful.

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Other Uses for Acetone

Acetone has many other uses. First, it can be used to remove melted plastic from metal objects. If your plastic spatula is taped to a saucepan, you might be able to salvage it. Wait for everything to cool down. Dip a rag in acetone and wipe away the melted bits until they come loose. Then be sure to clean everything thoroughly before cooking with it again.

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Acetone can also smooth out scratches on hard plastic items like furniture, clock faces, and picture frames. Use a cotton swab and some acetone and rub slowly and gently. It can also remove tea and coffee stains from glass and ceramic mugs. Wash them very well afterwards too. You can also use acetone to remove scuffs from floors and to dissolve dried superglue.

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Acetone can be used to remove paint stains from walls and to disinfect small grooming items like nail clippers, razors, and tweezers. You can also clean a porcelain tub with acetone. Be sure to wear cleaning gloves and a mask if you find the odor bothersome, and ventilate the area well. To clean porcelain tubs, mix equal parts water and acetone, apply to dirty parts with a rag, and scrub with a non-abrasive brush. Rinse anything you clean with acetone with soap and water.

Credit: Jupiterimages/Pixland/GettyImages See more photos

Stains are difficult. It seems like each fabric requires a different and specific cleaning method or material. When treating an ink stain on polyester you have a few options including using acetone. But while acetone might work, there are a few things you need to know before using acetone on polyester.

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Know the fabric: polyester

Polyester is practically ubiquitous today, but it wasn’t always like this. When man-made synthetic fiber first came out in the 1940s, it was a wrinkle-free alternative to natural fibers, and it was also easy to wash at home. Polyester is made from plastics derived from petroleum. Over the decades, the look and feel of polyester fabrics has evolved into something that feels soft and smooth against the skin.

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Regular cleaning of polyester

Polyester is easy to clean, and to keep your polyester clothes looking fresh it’s as simple as running them regularly through the normal cycle in your washing machine, preferably in warm water. However, if the polyester has developed ingrained odors, a little more work may be required. In these cases, the garment should be soaked in a solution of warm water mixed with 1/4 cup vinegar for 30 minutes before subjecting it to a conventional wash to drive away even the most stubborn odors.

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Using acetone to remove ink stains on polyester

There are several methods to remove stains such as ink from polyester. One of the most effective is acetone. Acetone is a common, naturally occurring solvent. Acetone can quickly and easily remove even the most stubborn ink stains from polyester fabric. In addition, it gets the job done without damaging the fabric. However, before you simply apply acetone to the stain, first remove as much of the stain as possible with a simple mixture of warm water and dish soap. Applying this mixture to the stain and then using paper towels to blot the stain will remove the top layer of ink that may not yet have settled into the garment.

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Once that’s done, let the spot dry. The risk of spreading the stain with moisture is not worth it. After the stain dries, use a sponge to apply acetone (nail polish remover with acetone works well) and then blot the stain with the sponge until the ink stain is completely removed.

Polyester is a durable material used in everything from clothing to tablecloths. Learn how to remove ink from polyester using various products you have on hand such as rubbing alcohol, borax, hairspray, dawn and nail polish remover. Get tips on removing ink from nylon jackets and coats.

How to remove ink from polyester fabric There’s nothing worse than opening the dryer and realizing that a pen in your bag has been left by a member of your family or yourself. Now all your clothes are covered in a jet black mess. Instead of reaching for the trash can, reach for: white vinegar

Dawn dishwashing liquid

rubbing alcohol

hairspray

nail polish remover

borax

old cloth

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Hooray for hairspray on ink stains If you leave a pen in your pocket or accidentally spill it on your polyester shirt, take it off immediately. Before doing anything else, try to blot as much ink as possible. This prevents the ink from settling in the fibers. After blotting, do the following: Spray the stain with hairspray. Mix: 4 cups of warm water

1 teaspoon of Dawn

1 tablespoon white vinegar Soak the stained area in the mixture for 30 minutes to an hour. Rinse and repeat if necessary. After all traces of the ink are gone, wash as usual.

Blast the Ink with Borax Let a little Borax do the inkjetting for you. Especially if you have a pen stain on your pants. To get started, grab your borax and give this method a try. In a container, add ½ cup of borax, less if you only have a small stain. Mix in enough water to form a paste. Put the paste on the stain and leave it on for 30-45 minutes. Rinse with cold water. Put a drop of Dawn on the fabric and rub the stain with your fingers. Rinse again. Wash the item as usual.

How to get a polyester pen with Dawn Dawn can also work on its own. Especially when you have the powerful Dawn original. This is a stain-fighting master for all fabrics. Put a drop of Dawn on the fabric. Gently rub the area with your fingers. If that doesn’t work, try rubbing the fabric against yourself. Leave the soapy mixture on the stain for about ten minutes. Run cold water through the stain for 1-2 minutes. Repeat as needed. Wash as usual after the stain has been removed.

Removing Ink from Polyester Blend Clothing While these methods work for most polyester fabrics, it’s important to check the label. Polyester blends like your nylon jacket or polyester coat take a different approach.

How to remove ballpoint pens from nylon jackets It happens to everyone. You could explode a pen in your pocket or forget it by throwing it in the laundry. Either way, an inky mess remains on your yellow nylon spring jacket. Don’t despair! Instead, use rubbing alcohol. Soak an old cloth in rubbing alcohol. Place a towel under the soiled area to prevent it from getting soaked. Dab on the ink stain on your mixed jacket until it lifts completely. Rinse the fabric with cold water. If stain persists, take a drop of Dawn and rub between your fingers. Rinse and repeat if necessary. Wash as usual.

Removing Ink from a Faux Suede Coat Faux suede is 100% polyester. Hence it makes a great coat. However, it can be a bit difficult to get an ink stain out. This is especially true for your lighter colors. To protect your coat, grab some nail polish remover. After wiping away as much of the stain as possible, get an eraser. Rub over the stain. Using the remaining stain, soak a cloth in nail polish remover. Dab at the stain until it lifts completely. Use a scrubbing brush to scrub the faux suede. If machine washable, wash as usual.

Sublimation takes 10 minutes to learn and a lifetime to master. Gear and products are always changing, so there are always new lessons to learn whether you’ve been sublimating for 20 years or two days.

As a sublimation specialist, it’s my job to make these lessons easier for decorators. I am fortunate to be part of a team that has accumulated a bag of tricks for successful sublimation through years of trial and error.

Here are 10 tips passed on to me — and now to you — to help you do this process better.

1. Extend the life of the printer. To ensure the long life of the printer, keep it powered on at all times. It’s a common misconception that this causes more ink to be wasted, when the opposite is true. Leaving the printer on allows it to run short maintenance cycles to keep ink flowing and prevent clogged printheads. If you turn off the printer every night, the next time you turn it on, it will perform a more complete and thorough cleaning with a larger amount of ink.

2. Use it or lose it. A printer’s sublimation inks have a shelf life. Leaving them in the printer for too long causes problems such as color shifts, clogged printheads, and banding. Many people agree that you can print past the “use by” date without any problems, but a good rule of thumb is to use up the cartridges within six months of installing them. It is not recommended to print out the last six months of the expiration date. Marking the cartridges with the date you installed them is a good way to keep track of their lifespan.

3. Invest in good press. With proper maintenance, a quality heat press can last 10 years or more. Look for an industrial quality press that recovers quickly between presses and also has a digital display where you can see the temperature rise and fall. Investing in a digital pyrometer, a device that measures the heat of your press, can ensure the accuracy of the temperature reading.

4. Know your substrate. Certain substrates require additional accessories or a specific type of press for successful sublimation. Check with your dealer for product instructions and specifications to ensure you have the necessary equipment.

5. Always have extras. Always have extra parts on hand when sublimating, especially when working with a new product. Mistakes are made, be they human or mechanical, that affect your production process. So it’s always good to have backups.

6. Use everyday objects. You can use some common household items to successfully sublimate. Paper towels with no textured pattern or printing can be placed under hard substrates to evenly distribute pressure and contain spilled ink. Replacing Teflon sheets with butcher paper — also known as end roll paper — keeps double-sided items, such as B. Clothing, clean during production.

Use a lint roller on clothing to remove any stray fibers from the manufacturing process that can cause permanent blue spots on the finished product. Finally, lighter fluid can be used to remove fingerprints and adhesive residue from hard surfaces, resulting in a clean finish.

7. Choose the best glue. Use heat tape on hard substrates and repositionable spray on clothing. However, the latter comes in handy on double-sided, hard substrates when both sides are sublimated at the same time.

8. Improve your design skills. For some, the hardest part of sublimation is using design software, so take the time to learn these programs. Just knowing the basic navigation tools can save you time and headaches. Start small and build on your skills.

9. Use resources. Check with your distributor for available resources such as how-to videos, webinars, product templates and specifications, design software tutorials, and technical support.

10. Set the right price. There is no specific formula for pricing sublimated goods. Start by determining your production costs. Always remember that the value of a personalized item depends on what it is worth to the customer. 

Colin VanLint joined JDS Industries in the fall of 2015 and currently works as a sublimation specialist. He graduated from Northern State University with a Bachelor of Arts degree with a concentration in multimedia design. If you would like more information or would like to comment on this article, email Colin at [email protected].

What are the reasons for fading of sublimation prints on T-shirts?

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There is a strong relationship between the fading of sublimation prints and sublimation transfer paper. Because the dye ink is easy to dissolve in water and fade due to poor quality sublimation paper. At present, the ink-jet printing method uses a principle that the sublimation paper is set at a high temperature like the ink-jet printing press method. The principle of sublimation paper is that the ink film continues to melt at high temperature and then melts in the fabric. Therefore, the above condition implies that the sublimation printing with a poor quality transfer paper will wash out the ink after washing. So gradually leads to fading.

Inkjet printing is commonly used in sublimation printing. Therefore, the cloth should be made of cotton or a polyester fiber material.

Discoloration from sunlight:

Sublimation prints easily fade when exposed to direct sunlight from UV rays. It has nothing to do with the sublimation paper and ink. The main reason is long-term exposure to pressure under direct sunlight. It fades sublimation printing faster.

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5 things you need to know about dye sublimation printers

Welcome to the world of dye sublimation printing! The home decoration, soft signage and sportswear markets are growing steadily and dye-sublimation printing is a great way for business owners to capitalize on this opportunity.

Below we outline what dye-sublimation printing is and provide five tips you need to know before you get started.

Not sure where to start? Download this 10-step checklist to find the perfect fabric printer for your needs and budget. >>

What is dye sublimation printing?

It is the chemistry behind dye sublimation that makes it the right technique for printing on polyester and polyester resin coated products. Dye-sub inks are printed onto special transfer paper using a wide format inkjet printer. From there, the ink is transferred from the paper to a fabric using a heat press. The ink goes from solid to gaseous (hence the term “sublimation”) and penetrates the polyester fibers.

The polymers in the polyester bond when heated, allowing the graphics to be quickly and permanently embedded into your materials. As a heated gas, the ink fully penetrates the fabric rather than just printing on the surface, resulting in long-lasting, high-quality products.

Compared to inkjet printing on other materials such as paper or vinyl, dye sublimation is a more complicated process as it involves multiple steps. But no worry. With the right knowledge, dye sublimation can be an enjoyable and profitable business. Here’s what you need to know to get started:

1. You can print a variety of products

As already mentioned, polyester and polyester resin coated materials are the perfect substrates for dye sublimation printing. Because these printers come in a variety of styles and sizes, you can print on a range of products including:

Home decor upholstery window treatments tapestries cushions

sportswear jerseys and related sports equipment

Fashion and accessories dresses scarves ties swimsuits handbags

Trade Show & Retail Graphics Backlit Graphics Silicone Edge Graphics (SEG): At SEG, graphics are printed onto special fabrics designed to carry a strip of silicone along the edges. This allows the print to be placed in a frame, replacing the need for hardboard graphics. SEG gives trade show displays photo quality images with a clean, frameless, clean appearance.

Memorabilia Phone cases Mouse pads Coffee mugs Luggage tags Clipboards License plates

2. You must use a specific type of ink

When you transfer your graphics from paper to fabric, the ink must be converted from a solid to a gaseous state. Because the chemical process for dye-sublimation is very specific, you need to use a specific type of ink known as disperse dyes (commonly referred to as “dye-sub inks”).

These dyes can change from solid to gaseous state at high temperatures and bind easily to polyester fabrics.

The color gamut of disperse dyes is incredibly vivid. And some brands like Mimaki have introduced fluorescent inks to expand the color gamut even further!

Because disperse dyes are permanently bonded to your finished products, they create long-lasting graphics that are fully washable.

3. You need a special dye-sublimation printer

While similar to other large format printers, dye-sublimation printers are specific to the dye-sublimation application. They use disperse dyes that are intended solely for printing onto transfer paper.

Dye sublimation is experiencing tremendous growth and there is a wide range of dye sublimation printers available from the best brands in the business. Here are some that the ITNH team highly recommends:

Mimaki TS55: This 74-inch wide model is the leader in high-productivity sublimation printing.

: This 74-inch wide model is the leader in high-productivity sublimation printing. Mimaki CJV300-160 Plus : Combining high quality dye-sub graphics with contour cutting, the CJV300 is perfect for mass production of small items like coffee mugs.

: Combining high-quality dye-sub graphics with contour cutting, the CJV300 is perfect for high-volume production of small items like coffee mugs. Epson F6370H : Epson’s 64-inch roll-to-roll dye-sublimation printer is built for versatility.

: Epson’s 64-inch roll-to-roll dye-sublimation printer is built for versatility. Mutoh RJ-900 : This entry-level 42-inch, four-color roll-to-roll printer is perfect for apparel and flags.

: This entry-level 42-inch is a four-color roll-to-roll printer perfect for apparel and flags. Mutoh VJ-1638WX: A 64-inch model, this Mutoh printer is ideal for everyday printing on exhibition materials, interior design, apparel and more.

The wide range of dye sublimation printers available allows you to choose the perfect printer for your application and budget. Printers are available from 44 inches wide to 10 feet wide. Some are designed for occasional use and others are capable of impressive factory production.

4. You need additional equipment

The dye sublimation process involves several steps, but they are simple and straightforward as long as you have the following items:

heat press

Your heat press is just as important as your dye-sublimation printer. And just like your printer, heat presses come in a variety of sizes, styles, and price points. Here are some of the most common types to give you an idea of ​​what’s out there:

Flatbed Press: If you are transferring to solid objects, a flatbed press is your best bet. They’re also great for printing on t-shirts that require “all-over” designs.

If you are transferring to solid objects, a flatbed press is your best bet. They’re also great for printing on t-shirts that require “all-over” designs. Calender Press: These presses use oil or electric heated drums for heat transfer and are intended for apparel, decoration and soft signage. Calender presses are best suited for long-run printing.

cutting & sewing

Depending on your specific desired application, you may consider cutting and sewing options. Like the printer, these items range from simple and relatively inexpensive to large scale factory equipment. The best thing to do is speak to an expert to learn more about the gear that will best suit you.

5. Dye sublimation is affordable

With the range of equipment needed and the multi-step process, dye-sublimation printing was once expensive and intimidating. The printers alone could cost as much as $20,000, and that doesn’t even include the cost of a heat press.

Now the market has expanded to give people more choices and the cost of equipment has been drastically reduced. The technology has also been improved, making the sublimation process much easier with even higher print quality.

Some of the best names in dye-sublimation printing, like Mimaki, Epson, and Mutoh, now offer printers for $10,000 or less. And when you consider the potential that dye-sublimation printing has for your revenue stream, it will definitely be a worthwhile investment.

frequently asked Questions

Q: How much does a dye sublimation printer cost?

A: You can find top brands (Epson, Mimaki, Mutoh, etc.) dye-sublimation printers for under $10,000. They get more expensive as they get bigger and faster. Also keep in mind that you will also need additional equipment – like a heat press or a cutter – so your total investment will exceed the cost of the printer.

Q: How long does a dye sublimation printer last?

A: As with anything, the higher the quality of your printer, the longer it will last. A high-quality dye-sublimation printer should have a service life of 10 years.

Q: How long will my sublimated item last?

A: Because the sublimation process chemically bonds the ink to a material, decorated items are permanent and washable. Lightfastness can vary from ink to ink and should be discussed with a professional in relation to your application.

Q: How do I know how long an item needs to be sublimated? And what temperature should the printer have?

A: This may take some trial and error as it depends on the product you are customizing. Typically, the following times and temperatures are recommended:

For polyester fabrics – 400F for 40 seconds

For hard goods – We recommend a case-by-case assessment

If in doubt, contact the printer manufacturer or your product supplier for the correct settings for your items.

If you need help getting started with dye-sublimation printing, you can always use our free Printer Match Tool to find the printer that best suits your business. Or you can always contact us for advice or recommendations.

Imagine this: you sublimate a picture frame with the words “Happy Mother’s Day” and a picture of mother and child. After carefully printing the picture on transfer paper and attaching it to the photo frame, press the frame for the appropriate time.

When you take the frame out of the heat press, you lift the transfer paper to reveal the sublimated surface, but you accidentally drop the paper back onto the sublimated surface. If you move the paper again, it looks like there is a shadow behind the text.

What happened?

In sublimation this is known as “ghosting” and is one of the most common problems with this decoration process. However, below are some tips that can help you avoid this problem completely.

STOP SHIFT

Shifting the transfer paper while the plate is still very hot from the heat press will result in a duplicate or “ghosting” behind the original image. Ghosting can ruin an otherwise pristine piece and is particularly common with dark text on a light background. By being careful, you can eliminate the “ghosts” and return to the great sublimation.

The easiest way to avoid ghosting is to make sure the transfer paper doesn’t move when you stick your panel to it. Ghosting can occur anytime air or air pressure gets under the transfer paper – even if the paper is still glued to the plate. After removing the panel from the heat press, leave the transfer paper taped and untouched until the panel cools. Once cool, there is no risk of ghosting and you can safely remove the transfer paper. Give the panel time to cool down to avoid the double image.

Some sublimators prefer to separate the transfer paper from the plate once they remove the plate from the heat press. Be very careful and make sure you peel your transfer paper off the plate vertically. Do not drag it across the hot sublimated surface. You should peel off the transfer paper in one quick, fluid motion to keep the panel free of ghosting.

By taking the time to allow your panel to cool after pressing and quickly removing the paper in one smooth motion, you can ensure that you end up with a great product, ready to advertise for any occasion!

Quick Tip: For those who are new to hard surface sublimation, remember to do some extensive research. Take the time to think carefully about what you want to do with the sublimation, particularly understanding the tools that will be needed to create the final product. By first taking the time to understand what tools work best for your system, you’ll be faster and more successful in achieving perfection with the product you intend to offer.

Shira Allego is a sublimation specialist for Unisub. About sublimation she says: “The whole process of sublimation is interesting. Sublimation is chemistry and I really love it. Now all I need is a lab coat to truly be a scientist!” For more information or comments on this article, email Shira at [email protected].

If you haven’t already, you’re eager to take the plunge. A poll of Recognition Review readers showed just how popular sublimation is. Many are now using sublimation, and many more are hoping to get into sublimation soon.

Ghosting, banding and spots! Oh my!

(Originally published in the February 2015 issue of Recognition Review.) Read more articles on sublimation.

If you haven’t already, you’re eager to take the plunge. A poll of Recognition Review readers showed just how popular sublimation is. Many are now using sublimation, and many more are hoping to get into sublimation soon.

The reason is pretty obvious. Sublimation is a relatively affordable way to provide an almost endless number of custom colored products that people want to own and give away. And the substrate options available for sublimation seem to be growing every day.

So why doesn’t everyone do it? For those who heard horror stories from the early days of the trial, fear seems to have something to do with it. But today’s users are largely satisfied with the technology and the doors it has opened for their businesses.

As with any other technology, there is a learning curve with sublimation. It’s likely that the laser, which you consider an everyday tool of the trade, once seemed an overwhelming challenge. With practice you have become accustomed to it and now consider using your laser as basic as using a pen. Sublimation can also be like that.

New users often encounter the same problems. These problems can seem daunting, but experts are on hand to help you solve them to ensure a long, fruitful career in sublimation. Recognition Review engaged several supplier experts to address some common issues to ensure you never have unanswered questions. Many of ARA’s supplier members offer sublimation training, troubleshooting and expertise online, over the phone and at in-person events, so we’ve included links to their websites. We hope you will learn a lot from reading this article, but learn even more from the combined years of experience available to you through industry suppliers and education.

ARA thanks the experts who took the time to answer the following sublimation questions. In alphabetical order, these are Marco Awards Group’s Cathy Garcia, Coastal Business Supplies’ Kristen Harvey, Unisub’s Jory Hutchens, Continental Awards & Trophies’ JD Meredith, ACP Technologies’ Mike Onushco, Identification Plates’ Janna Rodriguez, and JDS Industries’ Shon Roti.

With help like this at your disposal, we hope that your printer and heat press will be as important to your business as your computer is – only you’ll understand your sublimation equipment that much better!

There is a second version of my transmission, a little apart from the others, like a shadow. What I have done wrong?

The industry term for what is referred to as a shadow is “ghosting”. Ghosting occurs when the sublimation transfer paper shifts on the substrate during the sublimation process or when the hot press surfaces are exposed to residual ink. Ghosting can manifest after several common sublimation failures. Here are some of the most common causes of ghosting and how to fix them.

Cause: Closing and reopening your heat press can cause the transfer paper to shift and cause ghosting as the sublimation process has already begun.

Solution: Position your substrate and transfer in the heat press and make any adjustments before closing.

Cause: Adjusting the pressure of the heat press after closing it can cause the transfer paper to shift which can lead to ghosting as the sublimation process has already started.

Solution: Perform a cold run and match your print to the substrate.

Cause: Improperly adhering the transfer to the substrate can cause the transfer to shift, causing ghosting on the transfer.

Solution: Always stick the sublimation transfer paper firmly to the substrate with suitable adhesive tape. Small, lightweight items like a 2-in. Sublimation discs may only need two pieces of tape to secure the transfer. Larger items like 12-in.-by-12-in. Aluminum plates should be sufficiently glued on four sides.

In the example shown, the transfer paper was not firmly adhered to the substrate. The ghosting occurred after the substrate was removed from the press and the transfer paper was repositioned on the hot substrate, allowing the sublimation process to continue.

Cause: If your heat press pad or printing plate is exposed to residual sublimation ink, the ink could transfer to the next items you sublimate.

Solution: Sandwich your transfer paper and substrate between a protective layer of sacrificial paper to absorb any ink that falls outside the confines of your substrate.

Source: JD Meredith is Creative Director at Continental Awards & Trophies (the CAT). Learn more at www.trophyparts.com

Why do vertical lines appear on the images I print for sublimation?

These vertical lines on images, called banding, are usually caused by dried ink or dust in the printhead. Here is the simple solution. Find the cleaning mode in the printer settings. Cleaning mode causes the printer to flush a small amount of ink through the printhead, removing fine particles or dried ink.

You should run the cleaning mode at the beginning of each working day to avoid streaking on your products. If the printer will be idle for more than a few days and has the appropriate settings, set it to perform daily automatic printhead cleanings for that period. Some stores have all their printers set to be cleaned automatically. You can avoid the banding problem and use your printhead for years by properly maintaining your printhead. Lack of maintenance leads to banding in the short term and to printhead failure in the long term.

If running two to three cleaning modes doesn’t resolve your banding, you may need to replace your printhead. While printers that do a lot of sublimation printing occasionally need to replace printheads, the problem is not a common one.

Many print shops also recommend covering your printer when not in use to reduce exposure to dust and greatly reduce the possibility of banding.

A note of caution: check your printer’s warranty before using third-party ink; Some companies, like Epson, mandate the use of their brand of ink to maintain the warranty. If you suspect you have a bad printhead, even if you believe the warranty has been voided, we recommend that you contact the printer manufacturer’s customer service department. The manufacturer’s customer service department will also help you locate a licensed representative who will repair the printhead to their standards.

Source: Jory Hutchens is a graphic designer and sublimation specialist at Unisub. Visit www.unisub.com for more tips and http://www.unisub.com/find-a-distributor to buy blanks.

If slight streaking is visible on the transfer paper, it may be “pushing out” – especially on soft substrates such as textiles or mouse pads. More severe banding requires immediate investigation as it indicates a clogged nozzle or printhead.

Source: Cathy Garcia is Director of Marketing at Marco Awards Group. Visit www.discount-trophy.com for more information about Marco and the company’s sublimation division.

Why is the transfer paper sticking to the product I just sublimated?

When it comes to sublimating onto metal, it could be your temperature setting. Remember that most coatings (or paints) on the metals are not cured at 400 degrees. So if you sublimate at 400 degrees Fahrenheit you could actually cause the varnish to soften which would then cause the paper to stick. Our recommended starting temperature for sublimable metals is 380 degrees.

Another factor that can cause the transfer paper to stick to the substrate is too much pressure. Try medium to light (30 psi or less) to see if sticking goes away.

Source: Janna Rodriguez is Director of Sales and Marketing at Identification Plates Inc. For more information, visit www.idplates.com.

There are strange spots and smudges on my sublimated images. What I have done wrong?

Excessive humidity in a production environment can be an insidious problem. It can occur randomly, with unseen changes in the air, or with objects that you may never have noticed contain moisture, such as: B. Metal plates. It can also often be easily confused with other problems such as: B. Pressure inequalities and insufficient time or temperature when applying the sublimation transfer. Fortunately, however, it can be an easy problem to solve!

Almost any item can absorb and hold moisture from the environment, but some substrates hold up better than others. This may depend on the size and composition of the item. T-shirt fabrics, MDF/hardboard, and metal photographic boards can all absorb moisture, which escapes as vapor when pressed under a heat press at temperatures that activate dye-sublimation. Since dye sublimation also breaks down gaseous particles, especially in the narrow space between the transfer and the sublimation coating of the substrate, the presence of other moisture vapors in excess can easily cause immediate problems and poor transfer results.

How do you know when excessive humidity is affecting your workflow? More often than not, the most difficult items are larger overall (think 11 inches by 14 inches or larger, for example) or thicker in construction (about ½ inch thick would be thick enough to hold potentially problematic moisture levels). Items containing other materials such as B. a cork backing, can also absorb a little more moisture than usual. Only ceramic and glass substrates appear to be largely moisture-free, but if you’re not sure, it only takes 10 seconds to find out – if there’s moisture there will be steam. This is called pre-pressing.

Pre-pressing is often the easiest way to solve the moisture problem. Pre-pressing the item for a fraction of the total pressing time required to fully sublimate the item will help drive most of the moisture out of the panel or slab. This is done without the handover in the press. For particularly large and costly panels and blanks, it is worth pre-pressing for almost or as long as the total pressing time required to avoid a potential transfer error – protect the surface only with parchment paper or polyester cloth to avoid scorching the printable coating and around wick away excess moisture. Allow the substrate to cool before applying the transfer for the first time, as a hot printing surface can begin to activate the dyes in the transfer while you are still preparing and aligning the image, which can cause ghosting in the print.

For extra protection, especially with large metal photo plates, use a polyester cloth or parchment paper overlay to vent any vapor that may escape when the sublimation transfer is pressed.

The extra step of pre-pressing might make your workflow seem too time-consuming, but when you’re working with large, expensive blanks, it pays to be careful to avoid excessive vapor fumes.

Source: Kristen Harvey is a Tech Support Specialist at Coastal Business Supplies. Learn more at www.coastalbusiness.com.

Why doesn’t a color I print look the way I want it to?

There are several reasons for the discrepancy between what you see on your monitor and the sublimated result. The biggest problem is how these two colors are made; Monitor colors are created using light in the RGB color space, and printers use ink to create colors in the CMYK color space. Your monitor can produce up to 16 million different colors, but your printer is limited to a few thousand. For example, I have two monitors, one Dell and one Samsung. Both have been calibrated but neither look like my sublimated end result.

The other challenge with color matching is the ink itself, which is actually a dye, so semi-translucent. When you look at a sublimated product, you see the mixture of the color of the dye and the surface color of the product. This means that a red color on white material will look very different when sublimated on gold material. Even subtle differences between different white substrates can change the colors.

How do you overcome these difficulties? work backwards Print and sublimate color palettes on different substrates to know in advance what these colors will look like (see photo above). Then use these as a guide to finding the right colors and color values ​​for your project.

Also, make sure to write the date on the rim of the cartridge after you install it. You should try to use up this ink within 6 months to avoid color shift. If your reds are starting to look pink, chances are the yellow cartridge has been in the printer too long. In addition to all of the above, make sure your color management is set correctly – this is the most overlooked issue in the sublimation process.

Source: Shon Roti is a sublimation specialist at JDS Industries, Inc. Learn more at www.jdsindustries.com or email [email protected].

If you are using a Ricoh printer and the Sawgrass PowerDriver, you must first verify that you have the PowerDriver installed and that the settings are correct. Make sure the correct substrate is selected in the PowerDriver drop-down list. It is important to remember that you are printing from the PowerDriver and not the Ricoh OEM driver.

If you see the SubliJet-R black ink turning brown, it is possible that you have pressed or baked your substrates for too long or at too high a temperature. This is particularly troublesome for items such as tiles and mugs that are pressed for long periods of time. It is best to experiment with reducing the temperature and/or dwell time in small increments until the black ink looks the way it should. Be sure to check out a Time/Temperature/Pressure Tips page for recommended starting points for a specific substrate.

Source: Cathy Garcia is Director of Marketing at Marco Awards Group. Visit www.Discount-trophy.com for more information about Marco and the company’s sublimation business.

I printed my transfer but it wasn’t the size I wanted – or it was off center or cut off. What happened?

If the printed image is the wrong size, first check that the paper size you have in Corel or Photoshop matches the paper size set in the PowerDriver. If they do not match, the image will not print correctly. Also, make sure you have loaded the correct size paper in the printer.

Source: Cathy Garcia is Director of Marketing at Marco Awards Group. Visit www.discount-trophy.com for more information about Marco and the company’s sublimation division.

How often do I need to do nozzle checks and printhead cleaning?

A nozzle check is performed to determine if your printer is properly ejecting ink from the printhead. A good nozzle check means you’ve passed the first step for a good sublimation print. At best, do a nozzle check every day. If you turn on the printer and do a nozzle check even if nothing else is printing that day, you pretty much make sure your printer will be too when you’re ready to print. If daily nozzle checks are not practical, doing them at least twice a week should be sufficient, but this depends on the printer manufacturer and the environment your printer is in. Ricoh printers, for example, generally require less maintenance over time to print well.

If your nozzle check is not good, printhead cleanings can be used to try to unclog your printer’s nozzles. We would never run a head cleaning cycle without first printing a bad nozzle check.

We know that some printer manufacturers recommend leaving your printer on, which will run cleaning cycles on a set schedule. Head cleaning uses significantly more ink than nozzle checking, and it’s possible to waste ink unnecessarily by leaving your printer on.

Source: Mike Onushco owns ACP Technologies. Visit www.Acp.com to learn more.

What is the difference between laser/toner sublimation, gel ink sublimation and inkjet sublimation?

In the relatively recent past, sublimation fell into two camps, laser/toner based sublimation and inkjet sublimation.

Toner based sublimation

Sublimation toner has a powdery consistency, not unlike the toner found in typical copiers or laser printers; Models used for toner sublimation include the HP LaserJet4, HP4500 or 4550, among others. Toner is very dense, sublimes quickly and has the ability to sublime through a protective plastic coating onto the sublimable substrate. These properties made sublimation a fast and popular process. Many have found this process well suited for sublimation onto gold and silver metal. However, sublimation toner did not work well on white substrates. White substrates exhibited the “background effect” that occurs when toner dust lands in unwanted areas, causing all white areas of the substrate to appear light gray. Color density can be difficult to control, especially in photos, and laser printer resolution is lower than most inkjet printers.

Inkjet and gel ink

For many years, Epson was the only option for inkjet desktop sublimation printing. The advantage of inkjet printers is that the resolution is photo quality, the color management technology is advanced, and unlike toner-based sublimation, there is no “background” so white substrates are not a problem. In fact, the most vivid colors come from white substrates due to white’s natural reflective properties. The downside of inkjet printers is that they clog when not in use. This happens when the water content of the ink evaporates from the printhead. Also, Epson printers print slower than other inkjet printers, although they offer good print quality.

Next came the gel ink and Ricoh printers. These are also inkjet printers and have all the advantages of other inkjet sublimation printers, however the ink has a much lower water content; Therefore, you have less to worry about when it comes to head congestion. These next generation printers have been the biggest game changers for sublimation over the past 5 years due to the increased speed, quality and reduced maintenance requirements of the ink and printer.

Source: Shon Roti is a sublimation specialist at JDS Industries, Inc. Learn more at www.jdsindustries.com or email [email protected].

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Every beginner sublimation printer will at some point ask themselves, “Why is my sublimation ink dull and fading?”

If you’re worried about your sublimation print fading, this tutorial explains why you should (probably) not worry!

Sublimation produces bold, vibrant prints, so it can be a concern if the sublimation paper that comes out of the sublimation printer is fading and dull in appearance.

The good news is that you don’t need to troubleshoot your Sawgrass sublimation printer if you’re getting faded prints. (Note the color of the printed sheet on the left.)

Unlike an inkjet or laser printer that prints with full color ink, the sublimation ink on the sublimation paper is matte but becomes full color until heat and pressure are applied.

It is absolutely normal for sublimation ink to appear dull on the first print. Once the print is sublimated onto the substrate using high heat and pressure, the ink turns into a gas and permeates the polyester material and the colors become bold, bright and vibrant.

If you are having other color printing problems with your Sawgrass SG500 or SG100 sublimation printer, you may not be printing through the Sawgrass Print Manager. This can result in lines being “off” in sublimation prints and colors (as seen in the overly dark prints here). To fix these sublimation printer problems, read this tutorial

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