How To Set Timing On 318 Dodge? 97 Most Correct Answers

Ignition timing is like a spice: something is good, but too much ruins the results. Increasing the ignition timing on pushrod 5.0s is a tried-and-true trick to waking up the lump under the hood. The EFI system on the 1986 thru 1995 pushrod V8 Mustangs throws a few corner balls that newcomers may miss, so we’ll show you how to get it right.

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1. When enthusiasts adjust ignition timing, they usually refer to base timing or timing with no additional advance based on engine speed or vacuum. Engines equipped with carburetors usually have a vacuum line to the manifold that advances the timing at light engine loads. On engines with EFI, the computer handles the spark advance, so the computer needs to know that you are setting base spark timing and skipping any additional advance. This is done by unplugging the “SPOUT” or “Spark Out” connector. On most Fox bodies the SPOUT port is near the manifold, but on our SN95 it was near the mass air flow sensor on the passenger side inner fender. Put the SPOUT connector in your pocket so you don’t lose it!

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2. The basic ignition timing is adjusted by turning the distributor; It is held in place by a ½ inch screw and clamp. You can use a rotating socket or distributor wrench (shown) to loosen the screw enough to rotate the distributor. Turning clockwise speeds up the timing, counter-clockwise slows it down.

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3. Next, connect the timing light and wrap the inductive pick-up around the #1 spark plug wire. If your wires aren’t numbered (or an ankle hauler didn’t install the numbered wires properly), #1 on Ford V8s is the front one cylinder on the passenger side.

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4. Ignition timing is observed by aligning the ignition timing pointer with the marks on the harmonic damper (the piece of steel behind the crank pulley). If your damper is old and caked on, it’ll be easier to read if you mark it beforehand…but where you mark it depends on the type of timing light you have. If your time light does not have an option to advance the light, you will need to mark the damper to the desired time setting (e.g. 13 degrees). However, if your time light has an advance function, place a line at the zero mark and use the light to set the advance.

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Knowing how to set the timing without a time light is a valuable skill to possess as a car owner who likes a DIY approach, especially if you don’t own a modern car that uses electronic ignition.

Ever had trouble starting your vehicle and keeping the engine running efficiently? It’s mainly the timing of the vehicle that projects this kind of challenge. You can have a frustrating experience when your car’s timing is off; because it plays a vital role in the vehicle’s overall combustion cycle. However, you don’t need to worry unnecessarily.

If your timing isn’t right, you can adjust it with a timing light and an array of tools to get the job done. However, this process can also be carried out without a time light. This article provides step-by-step instructions on how to set ignition timing without timing marks or pilot lights.

Symptoms of poor ignition timing

Since ignition timing plays a vital role in an engine’s efficiency, it disrupts the smooth running of an engine when it is out of sync. Look for the following signs and fix them before they cause serious damage to engine components.

Hard start:

In order for the combustion process to complete, the spark plug must ignite the air-fuel mixture at the right time. If the timing is advanced (fuel ignition before the manufacturer’s specified time) or retarded (fuel ignition before the manufacturer’s synchronized time) the air-fuel mixture will not be ignited at the correct time. In most cases, this leads to starting difficulties.

High fuel consumption:

Retarded or advanced ignition timing will cause the air-fuel mixture to combust at the wrong time. This leads to a loss of engine power and an incompletely burned air-fuel mixture. As a result, the engine needs more power to keep running, resulting in poor fuel economy.

overheating:

When the ignition timing is set to fire before the power stroke. This could cause the engine to generate excess heat than usual.

Low engine power:

If the ignition timing is too late, it will result in delayed ignition during the combustion cycle. This results in the air/fuel mixture not being combusted properly and ignition occurs when the pistons have started to return down the cylinder walls. The result is a loss of engine power.

Engine knocks/jingles:

This is the most important and one of the most common symptoms of improper ignition timing. Knock occurs when the ignition timing is reset and synchronized ahead of manufacturer specification. In other words, knocking or ringing indicates pre-ignition, which occurs when the air-fuel ratio is sparked early while the pistons are still completing their compression stroke. This causes air-fuel to ignite and push against the pistons in the cylinder walls during compression strokes.

Step-by-step instructions on how to set the timing without a timing light

If you drive a modern car with electronic ignition, you may not need to adjust your ignition timing. But cars with old 4-stroke engines would need to adjust the timing from time to time to allow the engine to work efficiently and to ensure the spark ignited at the right moment in the combustion cycle.

If you experience these symptoms of poor timing in your vehicle, such as: Ticking noises, oil leaks or oil pressure drop, increased fuel consumption, hard starting, spark knock, sluggish acceleration, engine misfires, etc., these are signs that you need to adjust the timing of your vehicle.

It’s easier to know how to set ignition timing with a telltale light than to set ignition timing without a telltale light.

To ensure you are properly guided, the following step-by-step process provides sufficient information to enable you to time your vehicle without a timing light.

Step 1: Get a Vacuum Pressure, Residence Time, and RPM (revolutions per minute)

These instruments help monitor the amount of rotational movement of the parts that need to be adjusted when setting the timing. Some experts know how to set the timing without vacuum advance.

Step 2: Loosen the screw that holds the motor’s distributor

The second step deals with setting a distributor timing. To do this, you will need a screwdriver and pliers to loosen the screw that holds the motor’s distributor enough to allow you to rotate the distributor easily. Then turn the distributor housing clockwise or counterclockwise depending on whether the timing needs to be advanced or retarded.

Notice if the rotor rotates clockwise; If this is the case, turn the distributor counter-clockwise to advance the timing and vice versa. You may need someone to help you rev ​​the engine, turn the distributor and check the number.

Step 3: Slowly rotate the distributor

Next, start the vehicle. Then hold the distributor and slowly turn it left or right. Continue rotating and watching the RPM to see if it is in the correct position. Make sure the dwell time is running at 42 degrees and that the RPM is at 650 or within that range.

Step 4: Adjust the carburetor.

Adjust the carburetor to get the best possible vacuum. Then adjust the RPM by opening or closing the carburetor to bring about 21 ½ inches on the vacuum. Also, on the heat, adjust the RPM on the spark plug up to about 700 with a screwdriver by turning it counterclockwise.

After adjusting all of the components presented in the steps above, your vehicle’s timing is now set and ready for efficient operation.

However, if you are struggling to follow the process easily, you can watch this video to guide you in performing the process properly. Unless you’re a DIYer, it’s best to take your car to a professional auto mechanic who understands how to set a vehicle’s timing without using a timing lamp.

frequently asked Questions

Q: How do you set the ignition timing by ear?

Knowing how to set ignition timing by ear can be a nice skill if you know how. To set your car’s ignition timing by ear, warm up the car’s engine, hold the brake and rev the engine. Move it forward to hear the ping, then back to stop the rattle.

Q: How to check ignition timing?

To check ignition timing, connect an indicator light to your vehicle’s engine and observe the ignition timing. It is usually at an initial level of 12 degrees, 11 degrees BTDC.

Q: What causes the ignition timing to be off?

When modifications are made to a vehicle’s engine, the ignition timing usually needs to be adjusted as well. Failure to adjust accordingly may result in improper timing effects such as knocking noise, increased fuel consumption, reduced performance, overheating, etc.

Q: What happens if the ignition timing is too early?

Suppose your car’s ignition timing is too early. In this case, the air/fuel mixture is ignited very early in the combustion cycle, increasing the amount of heat generated by the combustion process. This situation can lead to overheating in a vehicle.

Q: Will a car start when the timing is out?

It depends on; Some older cars can start even if the timing is delayed. However, it doesn’t run properly. The further the point in time is delayed, the worse it runs until it finally no longer starts.

On newer cars without a fully working timing belt or timing chain, your car’s engine will not start. When your timing belt breaks, it can cause expensive problems for your car.

Q: How do I find top dead center without time markers?

To find top dead center without time marks, do the following:

Step One: Stop your car on a level road and set the vehicle’s parking brake.

Step Two: Remove the vehicle’s spark plug from the first cylinder using a spark plug boot and ratchet.

Step Three: Place a socket wrench and ratchet on the large bolt at the center of the vehicle’s crankshaft. Then place a finger over the spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft clockwise. The piston comes past the compression stroke once your finger is pressurized.

Step 4: Insert a straw or dipstick into the spark plug hole and make sure the straw is not left behind. Then continuously turn the vehicle’s crankshaft clockwise. Then the top of the piston hits the dipstick and moves it up. After that, slowly rotate the crankshaft while pinning the dipstick to the piston. Immediately the oil dipstick starts to go down again, please stop and move it back a bit.

Step Five: Change the Ratchet to a Bar. Now turn the crankshaft carefully counterclockwise. Then the piston comes up and goes down again. Once you notice this, turn the crankshaft clockwise again. This process involves few movements; Then you can tell when the piston reaches the top of its stroke. This is the OT.

last words

If you drive a car, you need to know how to set the timing without a timing light. Then the information in this article will most likely be very useful to you. So if you ever have problems with your vehicle’s engine due to improper timing, please follow the step-by-step guide at the top of this article.

However, if you are unfamiliar with the DIY approach, it is best to consult a professional auto mechanic to help you complete the process. In the meantime, always keep your vehicle’s engine and all its components in good working conditions to save yourself unnecessary stress.

Ignition curves are key to creating optimal performance.

Ignition timing is by far the most important tuning setting on an internal combustion engine, and yet the concept of ignition curves remains elusive for many enthusiasts. But all it takes to improve torque, power and drivability is a simple indicator light and a thorough tuning process. Think of this as “free” horsepower. Too much timing can cause serious engine damage, so it’s best to be an informed tuner.

The plan behind optimized ignition timing hasn’t changed since Nikolaus Otto started playing around with the four-stroke internal combustion engine in the 1870s. The idea is to ignite the charge in the cylinder with enough lead time (lead) to produce the maximum cylinder pressure at the ideal point after top dead center (ATDC) to push the piston down and create leverage on the crank. It is generally accepted that maximum cylinder pressure must occur at around 15-18 degrees after top dead center to maximize crankshaft leverage.

If ignition timing is initiated too early, the cylinder can detonate and possibly cause damage. If the spark is too late, the engine will idle, produce less power, and may overheat. This discussion focuses on a typical distributor street engine operating on pumped gas.

An engine’s ignition timing requirements vary depending on dozens of variables such as compression ratio, fuel octane, air-fuel ratio, combustion chamber shape, mixture movement, and intake air temperature, to name a few big things. But to boil it down to its simplest aspects, timing is dependent on engine RPM and load. The load is determined by the throttle and can easily be monitored with a vacuum gauge. When the throttle is barely open, the engine is requesting more air than the throttle will allow, creating manifold vacuum (low pressure). A typical street car with a mild cam may idle at 12 to 16 inches of mercury (Hg) on ​​a vacuum gauge. When the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum begins to drop. At WOT, manifold vacuum drops to almost zero. Most engines draw about 0.5 inch Hg manifold vacuum at WOT.

The next step is to break down ignition timing into three basic components: initial timing, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance. Our approach on this engine is to optimize ignition timing throughout the engine’s operating range while minimizing the likelihood of detonation.

The entire discussion of ignition timing begins with initial timing. This is the amount of advance at idle with the spark occurring before top dead center (BTDC). Most stock street engines require an initial advance of 6 to 8 degrees, but this is not set in stone. Engines with longer life camshafts and other modifications often require longer initial timing. It’s not uncommon to dial in 14 to maybe 18 degrees of initial timing for big cam engines. This timing is checked with a timing light that compares the position of the number one cylinder TDC mark on the harmonic balancer with a timing reference tab, most commonly located on the timing chain cover. Initial timing is adjusted by loosening the distributor hold down screw and rotating the distributor body. This changes the relationship between the distributor body and the spinning rotor. By turning the distributor against the direction of rotation, the start time is brought forward.

This initial timing will be used as a starting point for our next step, which is mechanical feed. The mechanical feed is directly linked to the engine speed. Mechanical propulsion is determined by the use of a centrifugal propulsion mechanism first used on James Watt’s steam engines in the 1780s. But even Watt admits he borrowed the idea from an earlier design that appeared on a 17th-century flour mill.

The typical centrifugal feed uses a pair of weights that pivot on pins. The weights are attached to a plate that positions a pin that moves within a fixed slot. The distance the pin travels is the amount of mechanical advance achieved by advancing the position of the rotor. On a typical Chevrolet distributor that rotates clockwise, opening the mechanical feed weights moves the rotor in the same direction and shifts the timing. The RPM at which the weights begin to move and the point of their maximum lift is primarily determined by the strength of the springs holding the weights in place. Lighter springs allow feed to start and achieve maximum feed at a lower RPM. Heavier springs will delay onset and slow feed rate.

So a typical mechanical feed curve might start at 1,500 rpm and reach full feed at 2,600 rpm. If this full advance moved the rotor 25 degrees crankshaft and our initial timing was set at 10 degrees BTDC, then at 2,600 rpm or higher our total mechanical advance value on the harmonic balancer would be 35 degrees (10 initial + 25 mechanical = 35 degrees) . total). We can adjust this total by either adding or subtracting the initial or mechanical feed. Changing the mechanical feed requires modifications to the slot or by changing the bushing diameter that fits over the pin in the slot. In this way, MSD manifolds allow for easy changing of the mechanical feed in its manifolds.

It is important to mention that checking the mechanical feed with a pilot light should always be done with the vacuum feed canister disconnected. If the canister is not separated, the readings are a combination of initial, mechanical, and vacuum advance.

Now we can introduce vacuum feed into this system. There is a popular but misguided view among many enthusiasts that vacuum advance is only for bone and/or emission controlled engines. The more enlightened way of looking at vacuum advance is to think of it as load based timing. It’s worth looking down the rabbit hole of the combustion process to understand why load-based timing is important.

Let’s take the example of a typical carbureted small-block cruising down the freeway at 70 mph and 2,800 rpm on flat ground. The engine could draw anywhere from 12 to 18 inches of vacuum. As already mentioned, high vacuum means low load and a nearly closed throttle. A little-known fact is that most mild street engines cruise down the freeway and pull fuel from the carburetor’s idle circuit. This is not a misprint. Engines with long cams or cars with high overdrive gears in overdrive can go into the main circuit, but most mild road engines with high vacuum at cruising speed are actually running in the idle circuit.

Since a minimum of air and fuel enters each cylinder, this means that the mixture is not densely packed. This is where it gets difficult. The general perception of the combustion process is like an explosion – the spark goes out and boom – the combustion occurs like a bomb. That does not happen. The reality is the spark plug burns and it takes a generous amount of time for the combustion gases to burn completely over the top of the piston, much like a prairie fire over a large valley. The denser the grass, the faster it burns, while sparse patches burn slower.

We can apply this prairie fire analogy to the combustor. At WOT, the air and fuel are tightly packed and burn quickly, so we don’t need as much timing. At 2,800 RPM at WOT, 32 to 34 degrees of timing might be just right for a typical pump gas street engine. However, at nearly closed throttle (14-16 inches of manifold vacuum), the air and fuel are far less densely packed in the cylinder. In order to get the best possible performance at part load, we need to start the combustion process much earlier – maybe up to 40 degrees BTDC or more, depending on the individual needs of the engine.

But we only need that much timing when the engine is under very little load. Because manifold vacuum is a good indicator of load, early engine designers used a small vacuum reservoir attached to the manifold to advance timing under high manifold vacuum to create a load-based timing curve in addition to the mechanical advance.

We have created two charts that illustrate very simple mechanical and vacuum feed curves. Mechanical advance is entirely dependent on engine speed, while vacuum advance is solely controlled by engine load. We need both because on the road we can have low load at very high engine speeds – say 6,000 with the throttle barely open – or very high load (WOT) at very low engine speeds like 1,500 rpm. These two situations have very different requirements to the ignition point.

Now let’s introduce the critical variable of cam timing. Let’s take an extreme example with a small displacement engine like a Ford 5.0L with a carburetor and a large hydraulic roller cam with 230 degree duration at .050 inch and .565 inch valve lift. Let’s say our engine barely idles even at 16 degrees initial timing at 8 inches of manifold vacuum and is backed by a tight torque converter since it also contains nitrous oxide.

Even with a compression ratio of 9.5 or 10.0:1, using a long life camshaft means cylinder pressure is greatly reduced at low rpm compared to a milder cam. This engine would respond to increased vacuum advance at part load cruising speeds to improve its drivability and response. Our experience shows that connecting the vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source increases idle timing and improves idle quality in gear with an automatic transmission. Milder applications can also benefit from this idea, but will require some experimentation. Several companies such as Crane, Moroso, Pertronix, and Summit Racing offer adjustable vacuum advance canisters that allow you to tailor the advance curve to your engine’s needs.

Let’s put these ideas into action with a concrete example. We dropped a very bland 383ci small-block into an early El Camino pushing through a TH350 transmission and a very tight 11-inch converter. With 16 degrees of initial timing and a properly adjusted idle circuit in the Holley carburetor, the engine struggled to idle, with the in-gear vacuum dropping to under 8 inches Hg. Adding more initial timing meant making major changes to the HEI manifold to limit mechanical feed, which was ideal at 20 degrees of feed (16 initial + 20 mech. = 36 degrees overall).

The manifold came equipped with an adjustable vacuum advance canister, so we just hooked the can to the manifold vacuum, which added 14 degrees of advance and produced 30 degrees of advance at idle. Idle vacuum immediately improved to 12 inches in gear and allowed us to lower the idle speed to minimize that annoying engine chatter when in gear. The extra vacuum boost also allowed us to slightly lean the idle mixture further. This engine only had 8.5:1 compression, so it prefers more timing. After additional driving and tuning, we finished this combo with 14 degrees of initial, 20 degrees of mechanical advance and 14 degrees of vacuum advance for 48 degrees at highway cruising, but it runs well on 87 octane fuel.

We finally added a looser converter that allowed us to remove the intake manifold vacuum boost at idle. This slacker converter allowed us to reduce the overall in-gear idle adjustment to a more conservative initial 18 degrees, which improved in-gear idle quality due to the reduced load.

Each engine has different timing requirements based on its combination of combustion chamber design, compression, octane rating, cam timing, and ignition curve variables. The best way to determine your ideal curve is to make small changes and test them out for a few days before attempting further changes. Pay attention to what your engine is telling you and record your changes in a notebook.

This is just an example, but it serves to illustrate how you can juggle ignition timing to improve engine performance at part throttle. Recently, HOT ROD ran a To The Rescue column where a struggling stroker Ford Small-Block radically improved its throttle response with just the simple application of timing and jetting. Very few magazine articles deal with part load performance, but it is critical for road powered engines. If you think about it, a street engine easily spends 95 percent of its life at part load and idling. Why not take the time to ensure your engine runs best where it will spend most of its life? Spend a little time with a time light and we guarantee your motor won’t regret it.

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See All 12 Photos See All 12 Photos This is a typical mechanical feed mechanism on a HEI manifold with a pair of weights moving outward as the engine speed increases. You can create a custom curve by mixing springs from an aftermarket spring kit. One of the two slots is marked by the arrow. The only way to reduce the total mechanical feed is to shorten the length of the slot. This requires disassembly and some soldering or welding.

See all 12 photos See all 12 photos MSD dealers use a single slot and pin with a socket held in place by a nut. By changing the bushing diameter, the tuner can increase or decrease the amount of mechanical feed. MSD manifolds are factory fitted with the largest (black) bushing which minimizes mechanical feed. Smaller sockets are supplied with the distributor. Be sure to put some Loctite on the threads when changing the bushing. We saw those nuts fall off.

See all 12 photos See all 12 photos Vacuum advance canisters move the plate in the manifold when vacuum is applied to the inner diaphragm. Vacuum applied to the diaphragm advances the pickup position and changes the timing. Adjustable vacuum tanks are available from most major retailers and are usually identified by their octagonal shape. This uses a 3/32″ allen wrench to adjust the speed at which the feed is applied.

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See all 12 photos See all 12 photos This is an Innova digital timing light with dial back from Summit Racing. The display shows both the total adjustment (32 degrees) and the engine speed (2,580). To use this recall light, simply press the advance (up arrow) or retard (down arrow) button until the TDC mark aligns with the zero mark on the engine timing tab. The display then tells us we have 32 degrees of advance at 2,580 rpm.

See All 12 Photos See All 12 Photos Here’s a quick tip for determining the rotation on any manifold with a vacuum feed can. Position your hand parallel to the vacuum feed can as shown. Your fingers point in the direction of rotation of the distributor. This Chevrolet HEI distributor rotates clockwise. Ford dealers place the vacuum can on the opposite side of the housing, meaning it rotates counter-clockwise.

See all 12 photos See all 12 photos You can buy a timing tape from MSD that shows the time markers exactly like a graduated balancer, so you don’t need a reset light. Or you can create your own band like we did here. Multiply the balancer diameter by 3.1417 () and divide by 180 to get a distance per 2 degrees. For an 8 inch diameter balancer, we rounded this 2 degree value to 0.140 inch. This positions the 30 degree mark 2.1 inches from the zero mark on the tape.

See all 12 photos See all 12 photos All of these tunings require that the ignition system is already in top condition. Always use a quality distributor cap with brass terminals like this MSD piece instead of the cheap aluminum ones and spend the money on quality spark plug leads like those made by MSD, Moroso and others.

See all 12 photos See all 12 photos Even the little things can make a difference. Projection spark plugs (left) bring the spark slightly closer to the center of the chamber and offer a slight advantage over standard plugs (right).

See all 12 photos See all 12 photos This diagram illustrates a typical mechanical feed curve that includes the initial 10 degree timing with a total of 32 degrees. This corresponds to a mechanical advance of 22 degrees.

See All 12 Photos See All 12 Photos This graph shows a vacuum advance curve adding up to 14 degrees of additional timing at 18 inches Hg. By combining these two curves, it is possible to have up to 46 degrees of advance at 3,000 rpm cruise when manifold vacuum is at or above 18 inches Hg (32 + 14 = 46).

5.3L LS timing vs. load map

Load (throttle valve percentage) 1,000 3,000 4,000 6,000 10% 40 50 52 44 20% 34 38 40 30% 24 21 33 32 30 40 29 50% 10 16 21 29 29 29 29 29 29 60% 4 12 17 26 28 28 70% -11 8 14 26 28 28 80% -11 6 14 26 28 28 90% -11 6 14 26 28 28 100% -11 4 14 26 28 28 Show all

If you refer to the graphs, you will see that both are linear (straight line) curves. Electronically controlled engines offer the advantage of non-linear ignition curves. This graph is a simplified example of a load based time map taken from an 87 octane GM 5.3L LS truck engine. Essentially, this card is a combination of initial, mechanical, and vacuum advance. The vertical scale is percentage of throttle opening (load), while RPM is displayed on the horizontal scale. As you would expect, the timing decreases as the load increases. As an extreme example, you would never be at WOT (100 percent) at 1,000 RPM, but if you were, you can see that the map minimizes the timing to -11 degrees, which is 11 degrees after TDC, lagging drastically will prevent detonation. Conversely, at 10 percent throttle opening at 3,000 rpm, the timing is 53 degrees BTDC. This is load based timing.

List of parts

Description Part #: Source: Price: Innova Electronic Dial-Back Timing Light 3568 Summit Racing $99.97 Crane HEI adj. vac. Can and Spring Set 99600-1 Summit Racing $35.40 ACCEL HEI Adjustable Vacuum Tank 31035 Summit Racing $24.32 Pertronix HEI Adjustable Vacuum Tank D9006 Summit Racing $18.97 Summit HEI Adjustable Vacuum Tank 850314 Summit Racing $12.97 Standard Motor SB Ford adj . vac. Canister VC192 Summit Racing $36.97 Summit LA Mopar adj. Vacuum Canister 850426 Summit Racing $19.97 Crane GM Points Dist. Vacuum Kit 99601-1 Summit Racing $35.43 MSD Timing Belt 8985 Summit Racing $4.25 Show All

Sources:

crane cam

866-388-5120

krancams.com

power distributor

901-396-5782

performancedistributors.com

summit race

800-230-3030

Summitracing.com

History of the Chrysler 318

The Chrysler 318 was introduced in 1967 (for the 1968 model year) as a mid-size V8 offering in Chrysler’s LA (Light A) line of engines. At the time, Plymouth had already offered a 318 cubic inch V8 since 1957, and while the A-Series engine is functionally similar, it is not the same as the LA 318. The design of the LA engine series was very similar to that of the A-Series similar, but around 50 kilos lighter.

The Chrysler 318 was primarily manufactured in Detroit, Michigan at Chrysler’s Mound Road manufacturing facility. Like most brands at the time, the engine was also made at other factories in Mexico and Canada.

The LA series engines, first introduced in 1964, became the backbone of MOPAR production and gained widespread notoriety. The 318 wasn’t as powerful as the 340 or the 360, but it was an impressive engine that was widely used in cars and trucks.

A direct comparison with other brands is difficult, but the small block 318 engine was a reasonable alternative to the Ford 302 and Chevy 305 in terms of performance and application. Variations in performance over the years certainly make this comparison viable, however.

The Chrysler 5.2L was normally equipped with a 2-barrel carburetor from the factory. However, some trucks and cars (like many police models from 1978 onwards) came with a standard 4-barrel Thermoquad or Quadrajet carburetor.

Over the years, the basic design of the LA 318 has remained fairly constant. There were a few modifications available (particularly in the last few years of production), including electronic throttle body fuel injection (TBI) available on the 1981-83 Chrysler Imperial.

The 318 used hydraulic lifters from its introduction, which reduced the characteristic knocking noise associated with older A-series solid lifter engines. Originally the Chrysler 318 V8 was a flat tappet engine but was upgraded to roller lifters starting in 1985.

The original LA Series Chrysler 318 engine was discontinued in 1991 and replaced by the heavily modified Magnum 318.

Magnum 318

Despite displacing 318 cubic inches, the Magnum 5.2L engine was very different and had few interchangeable parts. The Chrysler Magnum 318 and the other Magnum engines had numerous improvements over the original LA series, including standard aluminum cylinder heads and multi-point fuel injection.

The Magnum 5.2L V8 was introduced in 1992 and produced until 2003. Like the LA 318, the Magnum 318 was used on several Chrysler sub-brands and in both cars and trucks.

Specifications of the Chrysler 318 V8 engine

The Chrysler 318 originally came as a flat tappet, 90 degree OHV (overhead valve) V8 engine. The first LA Chrysler 5.2 engines had a compression ratio of 9.2:1, which dropped to 8.6:1 in the SMOG years of the 1970s. When introduced, the 318 had 230 hp at 4400 rpm and 340 LB-FT of torque at 2,000 rpm.

ENGINE CHRYSLER 318 (LA 5.2L) SMALL BLOCK MAKERCCHRYSLER YEARS OF MANUFACTURE1967 TO 1991 DISPLACEMENT317.5CI (5.2 LITER)CONFIGURATION90° OHV 2-VALVE V8FUEL TYPEPETROL COMPRESSION RATIO9.2:1 (1967)FIRING ORDER1-8-4-3.2-627.20-52-3.9-627-3.2-6-BORES IN (99.2 MM) STROKE 3,312 IN (84.1 MM) HP (1963) 230 HP (171.5kW) (1967) TORQUE 340 LB-FT (1967) GAS ODOMETER READING 12-20 MPG (EST)

Horsepower and torque also fell in the 1970s to 145-155 hp at 4,000 rpm and 260 LB-FT at 1,600 rpm. The LA 318 was designed to use regular gasoline in its usual 2-barrel carburetor configuration (2BBL) and its 4-barrel carburetor configuration (4BBL). Fuel-injected models also used regular gasoline.

The engine is a pushrod V8 with a bore of 3.9062 inches and a stroke of 3.312 inches, which is the same as the A-Series predecessor.

Chrysler 318 applications

The Chrysler 318 was the “standard” V8 offering for many years and represented the upgraded economy engine option. Later the 360 ​​was typically the next level up, although the 340 was also popular in many vehicles.

The 318 was used extensively across Chrysler’s line of coupes and sedans. It was also used in Dodge and Plymouth cars for decades. Dodge trucks commonly featured the 318 and received a second TBI fuel injection upgrade in 1988.

Heavier vehicles such as commercial vehicles and campers were also delivered with the 318. This engine was used extensively in marine applications and was found on everything from ski boats to small trawlers.

This Chrysler 5.2 liter engine was popular in police cars. After 1978, many police models were fitted with a 4BBL carburetor, although some vehicles (such as the 1980s Dodge Diplomat police cars) were fitted with a plain 2BBL 318.

Is the Chrysler 318 a HEMI?

No, the 5.2L Chrysler 318 is not a HEMI, although HEMI engines were available during the LA Series engine era. The HEMI V8 engines differed from the LA series in several important ways. Most notably, the HEMI featured a hemispherical combustion chamber (hence the name), while the combustion chamber of the 318 (and other LA-series engines) is shaped like a wedge.

Is the Chrysler 318 a good engine?

The Chrysler 318 is an excellent engine known for its simplicity and reliability. The 318 is more fuel efficient than some of the larger LA Series V8s, although it is generally less powerful than the 340 and 360.

The Chrysler LA 318 was sold and installed in millions of cars and trucks for almost 25 years. Two decades and tens of millions of miles have proven the durability of these engines, and the LA platform itself has excellent parts availability.

Chrysler 318 problems

The Chrysler 318 wasn’t plagued by many generational issues. These engines experience typical problems, most of which are common to competing platforms such as the Ford Windsor series and the small block Chevy.

The most common problems you will encounter with the Chrysler LA 318 are vacuum leaks, noisy or sticking lifters, worn camshafts, and various ignition and timing issues. Again, these problems are common to all V8 engines from the flat tappet era.

Some engines get all the credit. You know, those legendary powerhouses you can’t wait to show off. “Yes, she has a 427…” or how about “I use the Hi-Po 351…” or “Sure is nice, came stock with the Solid-Cam LT1!” Just calling out the engine type is enough to gain respect. On the other hand, there are many engines that actually trick a street dog into lying. You know the 307 in that Chevelle, but he’s tired of making excuses and everyone just seems happier telling them it’s a 327. In the world of Mopar small blocks, the 340 basks in all its glory, and in recent years , the 360 ​​has gained a lot of credibility, but the small 318 is widely considered to be fairly low in the automotive pecking order. Like boat anchor low.

The fact is, with a simple combination of parts and not a lot of money, you can think of any 318 as a high-revving and sturdy small-block waiting to be unleashed. There are many naysayers willing to explain why this cannot be. They say things like, “These things don’t have enough dice.” But it’s actually considerably larger than the popular 5.0 Ford. “The bore of a 318 is too small!” Tell the even smaller LS1 boys. “The 318 was never a high-performance engine.” Maybe true, but we’ll show you how to make it one!

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The Good and the BadIn terms of durability, the Mopar 318 is tough. The bottom end of most 318 engines used a cast iron crankshaft and while this is not as desirable as a forged crank, the cast iron part has proven to be very reliable. Early 318 engines (through 1972) used light weight rods with fully floating gudgeon pins, while later engines featured the heavier 340/360 forgings with push pins. The later rods are considered stronger and this bottom end has proven to be very reliable in heavy duty applications – particularly in the road rpm range up to 6,500.

Before engaging in any engine build, you should define the goals and then evaluate the engine for its strengths and weaknesses to decide what needs updating to meet the build’s goals. First, let’s look at the areas where the 318 could use some help, as there are a few shortcomings that these engines share in stock form. Aside from areas corrected by the usual bolt-ons, the factory configuration fell short in three key areas: compression, camshaft and cylinder heads. Two-cylinder 318 engines were equipped with underpowered heads with small ports and valves. Later four-cylinder engines, introduced in 1976, were slightly better equipped, using the 360’s larger porting and valve cylinder heads; However, these heads have larger combustion chambers, which vex the second shortcoming of 318 compression. A major weakness of the 318 engine is the low factory compression ratio resulting from the pistons being far down the hole at TDC. Finally, all factory 318 engines came with very conservative cams, delivering less than .400 inches of lift.

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So, is this all bad news? In fact, in the course of an overhaul, the lack of compression ratio and camshaft can be fixed for not much more than the cost of original equipment parts. The compression ratio side of the puzzle is quickly solved with a set of flat KB pistons that bring the piston up from the depths of the bore. A modest edit of the block deck achieves zero deck height. The KB flat top pistons for the 318 are available in either hypereutectic cast (PN KB167) or forged (PN KB844). For our mild street use, we opted for the more fuel-efficient hyper-eutectic pistons.

Cam choices for the 318 are wide open, but for easy street use and low cost, a flat tappet hydraulic cam offers the best performance bargain. This is where the Mopar offers a potential advantage, with a .904-inch tappet diameter that’s significantly larger than other popular engine brands. The larger tappet diameter allows for more aggressive cam grinding at a higher lift rate, giving a performance advantage compared to a cam designed for a smaller tappet diameter. Many commercial cams are designed for a minimum tappet diameter of just .842 inches (Chevy size), which keeps some of the Mopar engine’s performance potential on the shelf. We know that COMP Cams offers true .904″ lifter cams for Mopar engines only with their Xtreme Energy High-Lift camshaft line. For our Street Performance small block, we chose the most conservative of this cam series, the XE275HL. Specs for this racquet run 231/237 degrees at .050 and stroke .525 inches with a 1.5:1 rocker ratio, all at a club separation angle of 110 degrees.

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Heading For PowerThat leaves the final upgrade in our power trio of compression, camshaft and cylinder heads. While good results can be achieved with four-barrel 360-derived 318 heads, there are some serious shortcomings. The main disadvantage is the large and inefficient open combustion chamber. Not only does this lower the compression ratio, even with the flat-top pistons, but the chamber design precludes building an engine with a desirable head-to-piston squish/quench effect. Choices for OEM closed chamber cylinder heads are limited to small valve, small port castings or the later Magnum style heads.

The Magnums offer some notable advantages, such as a compact, modern closed chamber, generous valve sizes (1.92″ intake, 1.625″ exhaust), respectable port flow, and a revised valvetrain with a higher rocker ratio (1.6:1 vs. 1.5 : 1). Conversion to these cylinder heads has become a popular upgrade for earlier engines (see sidebar: “Magnum Head Conversion”); However, the main disadvantage of the OEM Magnum heads is the tendency to snap. It is very difficult to find used Magnum heads that are not cracked.

Engine Quest has a viable alternative to the OEM Magnum castings with their iron Lightning cylinder heads. Essentially an OEM replacement casting, the Engine Quest heads feature refined orifices and higher flow than the stock parts, and just as importantly, they are brand new castings without the fatal magnum head cracks. One of the traditional disadvantages of the original Magnum design was the revision of this series of cylinder heads to a vertical intake bolt pattern, which precluded the use of readily available aftermarket manifolds developed for the earlier LA series engines. Engine Quest addressed this compatibility issue by offering their replacement Magnum style heads for either the Magnum style intake (PN CH318A) or a traditional non-Magnum style intake (PN CH318B).

For our engine build we chose to use the CH318B castings with the earlier intake manifold bolt pattern that is compatible with the Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap intake manifold that we already had. The cylinder heads were purchased as bare castings requiring assembly and valving. To fill in the castings, we went to Dr. J’s Performance to have the castings assembled and dialed in. dr J’s ordered a valve kit from SI, a manufacturer of high quality stainless steel valves at a very reasonable price. SI catalogs valves in standard 1.92/1.625 inch valve diameters and standard length. These valves accept the OEM Magnum beadlock mounts. To complete our cylinder heads, OEM Mopar Magnum mounts and locks were used along with COMP’s 901-16 valve springs. The stock SI valves have been set for a 1,600-inch stack height, which gives decent coil-binding clearance with the .560-inch travel provided by the 1.6:1 ratio of the Magnum rockers. dr However, J’s found there was insufficient clearance between the holder and the guide, so they machined the guides to create play at the guide protrusion.

While inspecting the cylinder head castings on Dr. J’s Flow Bench, we were impressed with the out-of-the-box flow for the Engine Quest heads. Overall, the numbers were stronger than the OEM castings. When something is good, more is better, so Bryce Mulvey of Dr. J’s plans to port the Engine Quest heads. Since we wanted to test the heads as cast, we ordered a second set of heads to experiment with modifications. Bryce reported that the heads responded well to porting modifications (see sidebar: “On the Bench”). We let dr. J’s assemble a second set of the Engine Quest castings using the same hardware, but this time with basic full porting and a set of larger 2.03/1.625″ valves from SI.

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Assembly and Testing After the major components were ironed out, we had a 318 core block machined with a full block prep at Precision Speed ​​and Machine in Bakersfield, California. The combination of Engine Quest heads with a combustion chamber volume of 62cc, KB pistons on zero deck and Fel-Pro head gaskets bring the compression ratio of the engine to 9.85:1, a nice ratio for our street cam on pump gas. We had Precision resize a set of stock later-model 318 connecting rods with ARP bolts and mount the pistons to the rods. The stock 318 crankshaft was ground to .010/.010 on the rod and main journals and then balanced to the new combination of parts. The short-block build was straightforward, with a stock Melling oil pump and Clevite bearings. We used a set of Speed ​​Pro Moly Rings files that fit 0.022 inches above and 0.018 seconds. The COMP cam was lubricated with moly grease and installed with a new COMP timing set at 106 degrees intake centerline. Buttoned up with an OEM oil pan and oil scraper, and a stock front cover and water pump, the bottom end of our project was complete.

Above we installed the Engine Quest Magnum style heads with a Fel-Pro LA engine head gasket and a set of OEM Magnum cylinder head bolts. Because all Magnum engines originally came with hydraulic roller cams, and our short block features flat-faced pushrods, the combination requires longer pushrods than stock Magnum units. We measured the required length with the non-adjustable Magnum rockers we use and ordered a set of COMP Magnum pushrods (PN 7960). The Engine Quest heads accepted all OEM Magnum valve train components with no problem. We bolted on an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap intake manifold from the LA engine series, and it’s a perfect match for the Engine Quest CH318B hybrid heads. Finishing touches included a Holley 750 HP carburetor and MSD manifold and wiring.

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With the 318 together and operational, we went to the Westech Performance Group to quantify the existing performance. Our base combo is a true bolted together engine combo, using all essentially out-of-the-box parts and very little custom tricks. We spent the first few minutes of the run getting our COMP flat tappet cam properly broken in, and the engine certainly sounded healthy. With the timing set at 34 degrees, we spent a lot of time adjusting the beam and we were pleased to see power approaching the 400hp mark. With the mixture perfectly adjusted we had a hefty figure of 399bhp at 6,300rpm, with the engine pulling smoothly to 6,500rpm. The lightweight 5/16″ Magnum-style stem valves exhibited significantly better valvetrain operation at high rpm than the chunky 3/8″ stem units traditionally used in older LA-style engines.

We were really close to breaking the 400hp barrier and there was little left to explore apart from timing. Our baseline setting is usually about optimal for a Mopar small block; However, we pulled out two degrees of timing, for a total of 33 degrees. We lost a few horsepower across the board. Next we rotated the MSD manifold the other way, now a total of 36 degrees. The engine liked the change, giving us 402bhp at 6,300rpm. That’s very good performance for a Street 318, with a nice use of the engine’s rev potential. While that would be enough to go home proud of, we still had the ported heads of Dr. J. in the sleeve. We pulled out the wrenches and tore the 318 down to a bare short block right on the dyno.

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It wasn’t long before our 318 was ready to thunder again, this time with more airflow than ever. The modified heads were not significantly enlarged over the as-cast units, but flow showed significant improvements across the board. Of interest were the larger valves, ranging from a 1.92-inch size to a larger 2.03 spec. Conventional wisdom would conclude that the larger valves would affect low-end torque, but we had our doubts about that common belief. Our dyno diagrams would tell a story here.

Once buttoned up and ready to go, there was little to do but pull the handle for the performance numbers. Interestingly, we found that torque all the way down matched the initial baseline, and then the ported heads started to pull away, with the torque advantage only seeming to add up as the revs flew with an advantage of up to 21 lb-ft , which was gained by 5,800 rpm. On the horsepower side, the ported heads just kept pulling harder and harder, going full steam ahead at 6,200 rpm at 425 horsepower. Ironically, that’s the power rating of a stock 426 Hemi; We were more than happy with these strong numbers from our little, overlooked 318.

Magnum Head ConversionThe Engine Quest cylinder heads are designed as performance-enhanced replacement castings for the factory Magnum heads. So what makes a magnum head a magnum? Let’s look at the changes from the earlier family of engines called the LA Series engine. Magnum heads have a revised valvetrain that relies on rocker arms grouped on paired pedestals rather than the shaft-mounted system of previous engines. The oil is supplied through the push rods via the tappets, so the tappets must be equipped with oil provisions. Most aftermarket jacks are so equipped. Older Small blocks lubricate via a passage in the block that feeds the rocker arm shaft. The length of the push rod is adjusted to match the rockers; We recommend measuring the length actually required for the respective motor.

Along with these changes, the Magnum castings have a revised headbolt package that is not interchangeable with previous engines. On the valve cover, the machined valve cover rail requires 10 bolts instead of the LA engine’s five, although the earlier valve covers are still bolted on. Another unique feature of the Magnum is a change to the vertical intake manifold mounts that eliminates the need to swap out the intake manifold. The Engine Quest cylinder heads are available in a configuration that uses the standard early style header.

See all 19 photos See all 19 photos Cylinder heads make or break any build and this is where we chose the Engine Quest CH318B. These heads have compact 62cc chambers, a large quench area and improved port flow compared to the standard castings.

On the benchEngine Quest Ch318b cylinder headsSuperflow 600 Flow Bench 28 inch water pressure test at Dr. J’s performance

LIFT: INT: EXH: INT: EXH: . 100 68 57 69 60 . 200 124 114 138 124 . 300 179 155 200 169 0.400 213 180 247 200 0.500 227 187 273 219 0.600 233 188 275 229 Show all

Tested on the Dyno318 Mopar Street EngineSuperflow 901 Engine Dyno Stp Correction Factor at Westech Performance Group

Compression trap I read your answer to Earl Trapp regarding the application of 2.02 (X heads) versus 318 vortex port heads. I work on a ’70 318 with 84,000 miles. I intend to rebuild the motor with stock bearings and rings and keep the stock pistons. I am planning to install a Crower hydraulic cam with a .444/.467 inch stroke and a 288/298 degree duration (at .050 inch). I am installing an Edelbrock Torker with a 600 cfm Holley carburetor. I also purchased ’69 340 exhaust manifolds.

I’ve been trying to find some “X” heads to fit (they’re hard to find and very expensive) but I’m intrigued by some friends and their comments on the smaller valve swirl opening heads. A friend of mine said he thinks 88s and 89s 318s had these heads.

Please give me your opinion on which model years these swirl port heads were present so I can go to my local junkyard to find some. If I could find “X” heads would my compression be lower, or was your answer intended for newer engines with even lower compression than my 70’s?

Also, I’m told by Crower that I’m borderline on my cam selection, but can have a stock torque converter and adequate vacuum for the power brakes while sitting at a stop light. What is your opinion?

I’m not trying to build a race car, just a daily driver with a little extra pop from an already respectable engine.Mark PasquaNeedville, Tx

You want to save some money by freshening up your 318 with the stock pistons, but that’s going to be a mistake. Even in 1970 the factory 318 pistons were usually wide in the hole, like .060 to .080 inches. These engines weren’t known for being powerhouses, even with lightweight bolt-on parts, and a lot of that had to do with the compression ratio. The other factor was the heads: puny ports and valves. From the sound of it you’re going to keep the low compression pistons and get some small valve heads with puny ports to fix the problem. Not a good plan. The 318 swirl port heads found on ’85-later LA twin-barrel engines and newer offer only one thing, and that is the small, heart-shaped, closed chamber. They can be made to flow very well if you have the talent, time and gear, but I’m talking extensive expert porting, a competition valve job and fitting larger valves. It may not be a practical or cost-effective approach for you.

Factor in all the brainwork involved in getting the 318 swirl ports to move air, and a new piston set looks like a real bargain. Getting a set of aftermarket pistons is going to be a lot less work and will probably be a lot cheaper than trying to up the ratio with those 318 heads and then working like crazy to get them flowing. Even with the small chamber, the compression ratio will be around 9:1 with your stock pistons. If that’s not enough to make you reconsider your plan, you’ll be limited in valve-to-piston clearance with these stock snails, and that can get ugly pretty quickly with a high-lift cam.

The “X” heads and the other 2.02″ valve 340 high performance heads are really hard to find, but the later 360 smog heads will flow just as well or better with just a little work. These are easy to find and also came on factory 4 barrel 318s. Just have them machined for 2.02″ intake valves. With a little bowl cleaning they are as good or better than the 340 heads. The problem with all 340/360 heads on a 318 is that the chamber measures about 70cc which drops the compression to an unusable low ratio on a 318. You can forget about decent performance with these heads and the stock pistons, so again, a set of well-priced aftermarket pistons is the answer.

I’ll spell out the cheapest and easiest combination. Start with the new domed Keith Black 318 pistons, which have a net dome volume of 6.2cc. Drop those hyper-eutectic pistons in your block, and you’ve got about 10.5:1 compression with a set of 360 or 340 heads, without having to spend the money on milling the heads or case-ing the block. The short dome is perfect for this combination. Just grab a set of 360 Smog heads, have them rebuilt, machined for 2.02 intake valves (including a 75 degree bottom cut) and finish with some mild bowl work. Throw that Torker intake in the trash (it’s trash) and get an RPM AirGap intake and a 750cfm carburetor. Use a .904″ hydraulic lifter (Comp, Hughes, Lunati, or Engle) with a duration between 224 and 230 degrees at .050″ on the intake side and cam clearance no more than 110 degrees. Put this combo together with headers and you will be a 318 legend.

Advanced Lessons Every tuning or cam changing article I’ve read in MM or other auto magazines says, “Set the overall timing to 32 or 35 or whatever.” I understand the overall timing is around 2,000 rpm with the vacuum feed disconnected. This way you have the full mechanical feed. Here is my dilemma. I have a ’69 Barracuda with a 340 with Edelbrock Airgap RPM intake, 750 Edelbrock carburetor, Comp Cams Extreme Energy 268 cam, Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition, headers, 3.55 gears and a four speed. The ignition instructions say to set the total advance to about 32 degrees and then when you connect the vacuum line the total advance is about 55 degrees at about 2,500 rpm. With this attitude I get detonation.

I called the Mopar Performance hotline and they say, “Just disconnect the vacuum line and go with 32-35 overall degrees.” I called MSD and they say the MP Hotline guys are crazy and I should hook up my vacuum line. It seems to run better with the vacuum line disconnected. And yes, I connected the vacuum line to the correct fitting on the carburetor according to the instructions. What is the problem? Michael Harrison via email

If it pings with the vacuum feed, the simple answer is that it has too much feed. The vacuum advance serves to provide additional advance during low load and part load operation, obviously conditions where the engine develops vacuum. Under part load, the intake charge and cylinder charge are greatly reduced, so a larger ignition lead can generally be tolerated, improving mileage and efficiency. If you don’t mind giving up the extra efficiency and mileage, then as the MP folks said, disconnecting the vacuum feed is a quick fix. In this case you only have the initial feed plus the mechanical, generally around 34 degrees total. You’ll get so much lead, and that’s it, and it’s totally RPM dependent. So let’s say you have a total of 34 degrees at 2,500 rpm and it doesn’t ring, but there is an audible rattle at another 20 degrees coming from the vacuum advance. The problem is too much ahead. What you have to do is dial in the entire spark advance system and for a real street car this is much more difficult than for a pure race machine.

For reasons of space, I have to skip the heavy theory lesson here and go straight to practical solutions. First attach a timing light to the motor and see at which RPM point the motor reaches full advance. Many people prefer fast feed curves with full feed speeds of 2,000 RPM (or less) and that’s usually not the best route. With your 3.55:1 transmission and four speeds, at full throttle, you’ll see under 2,000 rpm for a split second right from the start and never the full quarter mile again. Set the curve to kick in a little later with a heavier spring combination. I like between 2,800 and 3,000 rpm for a street engine.

Only when the centrifugal feed curve has been sorted out should the vacuum feed be selected. There are two considerations with vacuum feed: how much overall and how fast. How much total is built into the device. The arm outside the diaphragm has a built in stop that limits how much travel is available to advance the timing. There are a number of different units and fortunately most are stamped with the amount of feed in distributor degrees which is half the crank degrees. An 8.5 degree vacuum can delivers 17 degrees at the crankshaft at full advance. Over the years vacuum tanks have been manufactured with a variety of pre-ratings, unfortunately I am not aware of any source that has available and cataloged tanks with different pre-ratings.

The speed at which the vacuum feed kicks in can have a significant impact. If the vacuum advance starts at too low a vacuum level, a slight partial throttle acceleration can cause knocking problems. The tonic here is to adjust the spring tension on the diaphragm by inserting a 31/432 inch allen wrench through the vacuum nipple. Counterclockwise delays the action, clockwise and it occurs at a lower vacuum level. Most, but not all, diaphragms have this adjustment capability, with a full turn typically changing the turn-on point by 1 inch of vacuum. You can adjust the diaphragm to decrease the rate one turn at a time until the ringing disappears. This should be all you need to solve your problem.

Super Dak I’m converting a ’78 440 RB and need some info. The engine will be installed in a ’91 Dakota, extended cab, short body. I was hoping you could help me decide what to do with the build. The motor was just bored .030″ oversize and the crank was reground 10/10. I was planning on installing a set of 9:1 TRW pistons and using a simple rebuild kit.

When it comes to heads, cams and intake, I’m lost. Would the stock heads suffice if rebuilt? I’ve been thinking about ordering a set of Aeromax 906 heads with 88cc open chambers. When it comes to the camera, I was thinking of a Comp Cams kit with a 224/230 at .050″ and .477/.480″ duration. Elevator, (PN 21-223-4). For an intake I was thinking of an Edelbrock Torker II and a 750-800 cfm carburetor. I’ll be running an 831/44 rear triangle with 3.55 gears and a 727 tranny, not sure about torque yet. The truck becomes a road runner with the occasional long-distance drive, not a drag machine. Matthew Crumb By email

I like the idea of ​​the 440 swap. It sounds like you’re building a mellow 440 that will add plenty of pep to a Dak. First of all your choice of pistons, I assume you mean the SpeedPro 2266 pistons. These are too far in the hole to be very useful, even with a slight power build. Go for the SpeedPro 2355 pistons which are the six pack replacement. These give a compression ratio of about 9.5:1 with no decking or milling, while the 2266 gives more like 8.5:1.

As far as heads go, any of the ’68-up heads will perform similarly, so your choices are wide open here. The later ’71-up heads are a little easier to port for good flow, while the earlier heads can ultimately flow more but require a lot more work to get there. In stock form, the flow between these 1968-1978 heads is so close you really won’t notice a difference. Your choice of cam is good for your goals. I wouldn’t use this one though. A performer rpm would give more power everywhere and idle and drive better. The carb size is also spot on for the money. For a converter I would just use a rebuilt factory 11 inch high stall unit. These are dirt cheap and work great. Sounds like the ideal setup to me.

Severe Rod HeadacheI was told by my machine shop not to use six pack rods in my setup because they are too heavy. I will be using TRW 2295 pistons, 906 ported heads, a Solid Lifter 509 cam and roller swingarms. Should I switch to LY rods or is this a real issue?Todd LangleyVia email

The Six Pack rods are heavier but have thicker beams than the LY. They are a stronger rod and with ARP bolts I’d rather have the six pack rods than the LY which swing those heavy 2295 domed slugs. In fact, the Six Pack bars weigh about the same as the typical aftermarket H-beams that everyone uses these days, and nobody seems to care all that much about the weight of these beams, although admittedly the H-beams are considerably stronger. Their 440 parts list is exactly the kind of combo that was the hot setup 20 years ago and back then the six pack rod was the ticket and I still consider it a better rod of the two you mention if it is used with heavy pistons.

Will my 340 blow? I’ve built and run a number of 340-based engines in the past with no problem, but I’m currently gathering all the parts necessary to build a stroker combo that should produce well over 500hp. I’ve been told that the production block I plan to use will likely fail even though it’s only .020″ overbored and has very little core displacement. What is the practical horsepower limit for the car block in a street/lane application? Should I buy a 340 restoration block and use that instead? Secondly, what do you think of the Schubeck Composite Lifters for long-term use?

What happened to that 600hp 408 stroker you built in 2001? Norman Connor By email

At 500hp your factory 340 block should hold up just fine. It’s hard to pick a limit as guys are always upping the ante and what’s an acceptable life for one racer is unacceptable for another. Your true enemies of longevity are RPM and detonation. Keep the detonation under control and the RPMs within reason, and the motor will live a long and happy life. With a stroker combo, you need less RPM for a given power level, but piston speed and thrust loads increase. Keep the piston assembly strong and light, and you’ve taken a big step towards longevity.

To put it into numbers I would feel perfectly safe with a works block at 500-550hp if the bottom end is fitted with good forgings. I know people with stock block small blocks over 600 hp who have been through many seasons of racing without block problems. There are too many variables to put a hard limit on, but at 650 naturally aspirated horsepower I would be concerned and definitely want aftermarket caps, cleats and the best internal components. What an aftermarket block buys is peace of mind and a good deal of insurance. Some guys just can’t afford it and roll the dice. Of course, if the budget allows, the MP block would be the first choice. In your particular situation, if you’re looking for 500 horsepower to run on the street, I wouldn’t sweat it.

I have no personal experience with the Schubeck lifters, although most of what I’ve heard is positive. It’s best to contact the manufacturer and ask about longevity in long-term road use.

My 408 is on the stand. I gave up my W-2 heads to help a friend who was going through a health emergency, and those heads ended up in a former assistant editor’s car. I had a W-5 top end for the engine that made about 670hp with a tunnel ram, but the valve seats in these heads wobbled after being run on the dyno causing valve leakage. I just didn’t get around to recutting the seats and bolting them back together.

Gas HogI have an ’83 Dodge Ram with a .030″ overbored 318. The engine came from a Diplomat police car from the same year. It came from the factory with an oil scraper, dual roller timing chain and the big heads. It has a cast iron spread-bore intake and a thermoquad carburetor rebuilt by Holley that actually works well. He also has EGR in the intake tract. The camera is a trademark of Melling. I’d have to get the card to give the exact specs, but off the top of my head it was a .440 lift. I don’t remember the advertised duration. I know it wasn’t more than 270 degrees. The 727 Trans has the stock low-stall torque converter that was originally on the truck.

I rebuilt the transmission and used a trans-go shift kit with stock rear transmission.

With the original 318, the truck got about 15mpg and the police car’s engine about 14mpg when in the police car. I can’t get better than 10mpg with this engine in the truck. I wouldn’t believe the cam change would cause me to lose 4mpg. I used the supply dispenser that was on the truck instead of the system that was on the police car. I’m wondering if I have a problem with the EGR valve. Yes I checked for fuel leaks and the thermoquad seems to be the only one.

Any suggestions on how to get better gas mileage on this old beast? It eats me up outside the house and at the pump at home. The engine seems to run well, but at less than 10mpg it should let the paintwork hit the road every time I stomp the foot forward. When I hook up my trailer, the gas mileage gets even worse. You have a great magazine, keep up the good work. CCAV via email

It’s hard to pinpoint where you went wrong, but there are three areas that are most likely to be contributing to your problem, and only two of the three are things you can easily do something about. First, what you can’t change much now is the compression ratio. You didn’t say which pistons you used in the rebuild, but I suspect they were the base rebuilder’s cast pistons. Unfortunately these are typically up to .090″ in the hole once the motor is assembled. On the Police 318, which uses the large-chambered 360 heads, the stock compression ratio typically measures in the high 7s, and if you weren’t careful with your piston selection, you may now be in the mid-to-low 7s. It’s pretty hard to get good fuel efficiency with a ratio as low as a Depression-era Fraiser. Add a performance cam and the cylinder pressure drops even more, worsening the mileage situation. You can push the ratio up with a small chamber head like the Magnums and some thinner Mopar Performance head gaskets, but that’s really no substitute for proper piston choice.

If my guess is wrong and you have a decent compression ratio, the problem is in the tune. The basic components here are fuel and ignition. ThermoQuads also run well at very rich air/fuel ratios and mask an overly rich condition. The TQ is a complex part, and there are several conditions that can cause it to run overly rich. Our recent article on tuning the TQ explains this carburetor in detail. On the ignition side, your truck’s ignition curve is controlled by the computer. Verify that the system is functioning properly and providing the required spark advance. Diagnosing these electronically controlled spark advance systems gave knowledgeable dealer technicians fits, so be prepared with a factory service manual and many hours if you’re looking to troubleshoot the stock system. The quick and easy fix when the spark advance system is the problem is to swap out the ESA system for the traditional Mopar electronic ignition with a kit from Mopar Performance.

I would put the truck on a chassis dyno with a broadband oxygen sensor to narrow the mixture and tune. Otherwise, it’s a very hit or miss offer.

automobile engine

The LA engines are a family of small-block, 90°V configuration OHV gasoline engines built by Chrysler Corporation. It was factory installed on passenger cars, trucks and vans, commercial vehicles, marine and industrial applications from 1964 to 1993 (318) and 1992 (360). The combustion chambers are wedge-shaped rather than the poly-spherical combustion chambers of the previous A engine or the hemispherical combustion chambers of the Chrysler Hemi engine. LA motors have the same 113 mm (4.46 inch) bore spacing as the A motors. LA engines were manufactured at Chrysler’s Mound Road Engine plant in Detroit, Michigan, as well as plants in Canada and Mexico. The “LA” stands for “Light A” because the 1956 – 1967 “A” engine on which it was closely based and shared many parts was almost 50 pounds heavier. Production of “LA” and “A” overlapped from 1964 to 1966 in the US and on export vehicles until 1967 when the “A” 318 engine was phased out.[3] Responsible for the conversion was Willem Weertman, who later became Chief Engineer – Engine Design and Development.[2] The basic design of the LA engine remained unchanged during the development of the “Magnum” upgrade (1992-1993) and through the 2000s with modifications to improve performance and efficiency.[2]

239 V6 [ edit ]

The 238.2 cu in (3.9 L) V6 was released in 1987 for use in the Dodge Dakota and as a replacement for the older, longer slant-six for the Dodge RAM. It’s essentially a six-cylinder version of the 318 V8. Bore and stroke are 93.3 mm (3.9 in) and 84 mm (3.3 in) respectively. Output was 125 hp (93 kW) and 195 lb⋅ft (264 N⋅m) until replaced by the Magnum 3.9 starting in 1992. 1987 used a two-barrel Holley carburetor and hydraulic tappets. In 1988 it was upgraded with throttle body fuel injection and roller tappets, which it retained until the 1992 Magnum update. Next, in the 1992 Magnum update, the throttle body fuel injection was upgraded to multi-port fuel injection. In 1997 the conversion to sequential fuel injection took place. The engine was produced until 2004 before being replaced by the 3.7L Power Tech V6.

273 V8 [ edit ]

The 273 cu in (4.5 L) was the first LA engine, beginning with the 1964 model year and offered through 1969, and was rated at 180 hp (134 kW). It had a bore and stroke of 92.1 mm × 84.1 mm (3.625 in × 3.31 in). Until 1968, when hydraulic lifters were introduced, it had a fixed-lift mechanical valvetrain. Hydraulic valve lifters generally ensure a quieter valve train. The reciprocating assembly included a cast or forged steel crankshaft, drop-forged steel connecting rods, and cast aluminum pistons. The valvetrain consisted of a cast ductile iron camshaft, solid or hydraulic tappets, solid pushrods, and shaft-mounted rocker arms made of forgeable iron (stamped steel on later engines with hydraulic camshaft). These actuated the overhead steel intake and exhaust valves. The cylinder heads featured wedge-shaped combustion chambers with a single intake and single exhaust valve for each cylinder. Spark plugs were located on the side of the cylinder head between the exhaust ports.[2]

From 1965 to ’67 a high power output of 235 hp (175 kW) was offered and was standard on the Barracuda Formula S model and optional on all other compact models except station wagons. It featured a 4-bbl. Carburetor and matching intake manifold, silenced chrome air cleaner with hand decal, longer life, higher lift camshaft and stronger valve springs, 10.5:1 compression ratio, custom black pleated valve covers with extruded aluminum applications, and a low-restriction exhaust system with a 2.5″ tailpipe (64 mm), a collector-type Y-connection and an exposed resonator. In 1965 (only) the muffler was a “straight forward” design.

A special version was also only available in 1966 – it used a 12.7 mm (0.5 inch) fixed lift camshaft, a fabricated steel pipe exhaust and a Holley 4-barrel carburetor rated at 275 hp (205 kW) (1 hp). /cuin). It was only available in the Dodge Dart, and the car so equipped was named the “D-Dart”, a reference to its NHRA D-stock classification for drag racing, which was the car’s only intended purpose.

318 V8 [ edit ]

Like all LA engines, the LA 318 was a 5.2 L (317.5 cu in) relative of the A 318. Like the A 318, it has a bore and stroke of 99.2 mm (3.9062 in) x 84.1 mm (3.312 in). It appeared in mass production beginning with the 1968 model year, replacing the last of the “A” 318 export engines, which featured polyspherical chamber heads (“A” 318 engines were not offered in domestic vehicles in 1967). The LA engine was available until 1991 when it was replaced by the Magnum version (see below). Hydraulic jacks and a two-barrel carburetor were used for most of its production, although Carter Thermo-Quad and Rochester Quadrajet four-barrel carburetors were used in police applications beginning in 1978 and 1985, respectively. The 318 2bbl ELD received roller lifters and a quick-combustion chamber cylinder head in 1985 (The Police ELE 318 4bbl continued to use modified J-heads and flat hydraulic tappets through 1989). Electronic fuel injection with throttle body was factory equipment on 1981 thru 1983 Imperial. From 1988 to 1991, a different throttle body fuel injection system was used for truck and van applications.

340 V8 [ edit ]

The base 5.6 L (340 cu in) version featured a 4-barrel carburetor and produced 275 hp (205 kW) gross.

In the mid-1960s, Chrysler decided to convert the 318 cu in (5.2 L) small-block V8 into a lightweight, powerful engine that would be equally suited to drag strip or street performance applications. Its block was rebored to 102.6 mm (4.04 in), but the 84.1 mm (3.31 in) stroke remained unchanged, resulting in the 5.6 L (340 cu in) engine introduced for the 1968 model year. In anticipation of heavier loads from racing, engineers installed a forged, shot-peened steel crankshaft in place of the ductile iron unit used in the 318. It also included shot-peened, hammer-forged steel connecting rods and high-density cast aluminum pistons with floating pins. A 4-barrel carburetor was mated to a high-rise, two-level intake manifold feeding high-flow cylinder heads, still considered the best of that era with 1.60-inch (41mm) exhaust valves. An aggressive cam was incorporated to take advantage of the much better breathing top end. The 1968 4-speed cars got an even hotter cam, but it was discontinued for 1969, where both automatic and manual cars shared the same cam. The engine featured hydraulic tappets and two-bolt main bearing caps, which led some to underestimate the 340’s potential at first. The compression ratio of the 1968-’71 340 was 10.5:1, near the limit of what was possible with pump gas at the time. The 340 also used additional heavy-duty parts, such as: B. a double row roller timing chain and a sump mounted oil scraper. The power was officially given as 275 hp (205 kW) gross for the 4-cylinder.

In 1970, Chrysler offered a special six-pack version of the 340 with triple 2-barrel carburetors rated at 290 hp (216 kW) gross, specifically designed for the Challenger TA and Cuda AAR models. This version featured a heavy duty short block with extra webbing to allow aftermarket installed 4 bolt main bearing caps. The application-specific cylinder heads featured offset intake pushrod ports with offset rocker arms that allowed the pushrods to be moved away from the intake ports, which could improve airflow if the pushrod clearance “hump” was ground away from the intake port at the end of the user. Three Holley carburetors were mounted on an aluminum intake manifold and a two-point ignition system was installed.

The combination of rising gas prices and the insurance company’s crackdown on high-performance vehicles resulted in the relatively expensive 340 being detuned and phased out. It remained a high-performance engine through 1971, but was detuned in 1972 with the introduction of small, low-compression (8.5:1) valve heads and, mid-year, a cast ductile iron crankshaft and a host of other related emissions changes. For the 1974 model year it was replaced by the 5.9 L (360 cu in) engine.

360 V8 [ edit ]

360 cu in (5.9 L) V8 in a Li’l Red Express truck

The LA 360 cu in (5.9 L) has a bore and stroke of 4 in × 3.58 in (101.6 mm × 90.9 mm). It was released in 1971 with a two-barrel carburetor. The 360 ​​used the large intake port 340 heads with a smaller 48 mm (1.88 in) intake valve. 1974 became the most powerful LA engine by the end of 340 production with the introduction of the twin exhaust version code E58 4-BBl with 245 hp (183 kW) SAE net. From 1975 performance began to decline as more emissions controls were added, although new ignition and fuel systems greatly improved drivability and the new standard 2.94 rear gear ratio actually improved top speeds in the 1980 patrol cars. Beginning in 1981, the 360 ​​was used exclusively in Dodge trucks and vans.

The 1978-1979 Li’l Red Express Truck used a special heavy-duty 360 4-cylinder engine, factory production code EH1, rated at 225 SAE net hp in production form.[5] The EH1 was a modified version of the E58 360 Police engine (E58) with 225 hp (168 kW) net at 3800 rpm, partly due to the fact that since it was installed in a “truck” and not a car it didn’t have to use catalytic converters (just 1978), which was allowed for a free-flow exhaust system. Some prototypes for the EH1 featured Mopar Performance W2 heads, although production units had the standard 360 heads. Some police cars came from the factory with a steel crank and H-beam bars.[6] There was also a “lean burn” version of the 360. The LA360 was replaced in 1993 by the 5.9 Magnum, which shared some design parameters with the LA360, but most of its components were different.

Due to additional modifications, the prototype Li’l Red Express truck tested by various time magazines ran significantly more powerful than actual production examples.

Intermediate solutions: The throttle valve injects LA engines

The last variant of the LA series introduced before the Magnum upgrade was the 1988-92 throttle body roller cam engine. The first engines to receive these modifications were the 318 cu in (5.2 L) V8 and 239 cu in (3.9 L) V6 engines. A Holley/Chrysler designed dual injector single point throttle assembly mounted on a slightly redesigned cast iron intake manifold. An electric in-tank pump and reservoir replaced the earlier mechanical pump (with camshaft eccentric drive). Hydraulic roller lifters were added to the valve train, but the cam specifications remained essentially unchanged. The resulting engine was slightly improved in terms of power and efficiency. The 5.9L V8s followed in 1989 but also received the overall upgraded “308” cylinder heads (casting number 4448308) which featured significantly higher flowing exhaust ports and a return to the original 1971 combustion chamber (do not burn fast). However, as other manufacturers were already introducing the superior multi-point fuel injection system, Chrysler Corporation considered a more drastic upgrade program.[2]

When the TBI engines were introduced, the new upgrade program was initiated in Chrysler’s engineering department. In 1992, as emissions standards became more stringent in the United States, Chrysler Corporation released the first of the improved engines.[2]

Magnum engines[ edit ]

In 1992, Chrysler introduced the first in a series of upgraded versions of the LA engines. The company named its engine “Magnum”, a marketing term the company had previously used (only) to describe both the Dodge Magnum automobile and an earlier line of Dodge passenger car engines. The latter was based on the big-block B/RB V8 engines of the 1960s-70s.

The Chrysler Magnum engines are a line of V6, V8, and V10 powerplants used in a number of Chrysler Corporation automotive, marine, and industrial applications. This family of petrol engines lasted for over a decade, were fitted to vehicles sold around the world and were produced by the millions.

Technical information[edit]

The Magnum engine is a direct descendant of the Chrysler LA engine that began in 1964 with the 273 cu in (4.5 L) V8. While the Magnum 3.9, Magnum 5.2 and Magnum 5.9 (1992 onwards) engines were significantly based on the 239, 318 and 360, many of the parts are not directly interchanged and the Magnums are not technically LA engines; The only major parts that are actually unchanged are the connecting rods.

The cylinder block remained essentially the same. It was still a cast iron 90 degree V-shaped design. The crankshaft, located on the underside of the block by five main bearing caps, was made of nodular cast iron and the eight connecting rods were made of forged steel. The pistons were cast aluminum with a hypereutectic design.[8] The cylinders were numbered from the front of the engine backwards; Cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7 were found on the left bank (driver’s side) or “bank 1” with the even numbers on the other bank.

Between the cylinders were coolant channels. The gerotor-type oil pump was located at the lower rear of the engine and supplied oil to both the crankshaft main bearings and the cylinder heads (via the lifters and pushrods, as opposed to a drilled passage on LA engines). Chrysler engineers also redesigned the oil seals on the crankshaft to improve anti-leak seal performance. The oil pan was also machined from thicker steel and fitted with a more leak-proof silicone rubber gasket.

Gasoline was fed to the intake manifold by a pair of steel rails that fed eight top-fed, electronically-actuated Bosch-type fuel injectors. There was an injector in each intake port. Each cylinder had its own injector, making the fuel system a “multipoint” type. Fuel pressure was regulated by a vacuum operated pressure regulator located on the return side of the second fuel rail. Excess fuel was then delivered back to the fuel tank. (Later versions had the regulator and filter mounted on the pump in the tank).[10]

The intake manifold has been redesigned to support the new fuel system. Known colloquially as a “beer keg” or “kegger” manifold, the part was shaped like half a beer keg that lay lengthwise on the center of the V-shaped engine block. The intake ports that supplied fuel and air to each cylinder fed each of the intake ports in the redesigned cylinder heads. The bolts that attached the intake manifold to the cylinder heads were installed at a different angle than the older LA engine. They threaded vertically rather than at the 45 degree angle of the 1966 LA.[10]

Air was delivered from the air cleaner inlet to the intake manifold through a Holley-designed aluminum dual venturi mechanically actuated throttle body that was bolted onto the intake manifold. Each venturi was progressively drilled and measured 50mm in diameter.[8] This unit mounted the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve (originally called the “AIS engine”). A steel cable connected the accelerator pedal inside the car to a mechanical linkage on the side of the throttle body, which served to open the air intake flaps in the venturis. At idle, these flapper valves were closed, so a bypass port and the IAC valve were used to control air intake.[10]

The cylinder heads represented another major change to the Magnum engine, designed to meet more stringent performance and emissions requirements through increased efficiency.[12] These heads were cast-iron units with new wedge-shaped combustion chambers and high-swirl valve shrouds. Combustion chamber design was most important in these new heads: cylinder heads from LA engines were given an open chamber design with full relief, but the Magnum was designed with a closed chamber type and dual cooling. The higher-flowing intake ports dramatically increased intake flow compared to the original LA heads, and the exhaust ports also improved cylinder evacuation. The shape and opening of the chambers allowed for more complete atomization of the air/fuel mixture and contributed to more complete combustion. These virtues allowed for much greater efficiency of the engine as a whole.[12] The intake and exhaust valves were located at the top of each combustion chamber. The valves themselves had shorter 5/16 inch diameter stems to allow for the more aggressive camshaft. [9] Intake valves had an orifice diameter of 1.92 inches, while exhaust valves were 1,600 inches. [8] with 60cc combustion chambers. Spark Spark plugs were located at the tip of the combustion chamber wedge, between the exhaust ports, and pressed-in heat shields protected them from the heat of the exhaust manifold.[9]

Cast iron exhaust manifolds, which are less restrictive than the units on previous engines, were bolted to the outside of each head. The new cylinder heads also featured bolt-mounted rocker arms, a change from the shaft-mounted LA arms. This last change was due to the different oil system of the new engine, as described in the next paragraph.[10] The Magnum valve covers have 10 bolts instead of the previous 5 to improve oil sealing.[12] Also, the valve covers were made of thicker steel than previous parts and fitted with a silicone gasket.[9]

The valvetrain was also updated, although it was still based on a single camshaft located in the center block, pushing on hydraulic tappets and pushrods, one for each rocker arm. However, the cast ductile iron camshaft was of the “roller” type, with each cam acting on a hydraulic lifter with a roller bearing on the underside; This made for a quieter, cooler-running valve train, but also allowed for more aggressive valve lift. Each of the jacks acted on a steel push rod which was of the “through oil” type. This was another change for the Magnum. Since the new pushrods also served to supply oil to the top of the cylinder head, the rocker arms were changed to the AMC-style, bolt-mounted, bridged half-shaft types. The new rocker arms also had a higher ratio: 1.6:1 compared to 1.5:1 on the LA engine, which increased leverage on the valves. Also, the oil shoulder at the end of the LA engine’s cylinder head was left undrilled as it was no longer needed. However, the boss itself was left in place, perhaps to reduce casting and machining costs and allow for the use of earlier LA heads.

Engine timing was controlled by the noiseless, all-steel Morse chain (some early production engines had dual row roller headsets) located under the aluminum timing cover at the front of the engine block. The timing sprockets, one each for the camshaft and crankshaft, were all steel; In recent years the LA motors have come with nylon teeth on the sprockets. A set of helical splines were cut on the back of the camshaft and used to turn the distributor. Mounted on the front of the timing cover was a new design anti-clockwise water pump with greatly improved flow. Externally, the accessory drive belt was changed to a serpentine system; This, coupled with an automatic belt tensioner, increased belt life, reduced maintenance and contributed to lower noise and vibration levels.[9]

The ignition system was also completely new for the Magnum. The ignition system is controlled by a new microprocessor-equipped Single-Board Engine Controller (SBEC, also known as ECM or Engine Control Module) and includes a distributor mounted on the rear of the engine. A 36,000 volt ignition coil, typically located on the front right side of the engine, supplied electrical current to the center of the distributor cap, where a spinning rotor conducted the current to each cylinder’s spark plug wires. Spark dwell, spark advance and retard were electronically controlled by the SBEC.[10]

The SBEC controlled the ignition and the opening and closing of the injectors. During cold starts, full throttle, and deceleration, it did so based on pre-programmed “open-loop” operating parameters. During normal idling and driving, it began “closed-loop” operation, during which the module acted based on inputs from a variety of sensors. The basic sensors that provided input to the SBEC included the oxygen (O2) sensor, manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, throttle position sensor (TPS), intake air temperature (IAT) sensor, and coolant temperature (CTS) sensor. The basic actuators controlled by the outputs of the SBEC included the fuel injectors, the ignition coil and pickup, and the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. The latter controlled the idle characteristics.[10] However, the SBEC also controlled the operation of the charging system, air conditioning, cruise control and, on some vehicles, the transmission shifts. By centralizing the control of these systems, vehicle operation has been simplified and streamlined.[9]

Emission output was controlled by several systems. The EGR or exhaust gas recirculation system brought exhaust gas from the exhaust stream to the intake manifold and lowered peak combustion temperatures with the goal of reducing NOX emissions.[13] A PCV, or positive crankcase ventilation system, introduced oil vapors and unburned fuel vapors from the crankcase into the intake, allowing the engine to reuse them as well.[13] In addition, gasoline vapors that would normally be released into the atmosphere were captured by the EVAP system to then be introduced into the engine.[13]

In 1996, the OBD-II on-board diagnostics system was introduced in all passenger vehicles in the United States under United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) regulations.[14] For this reason, a new engine control computer for vehicles powered by Magnum engines, known as JTEC, was developed.[15] The new Powertrain Control Module was more complex and intelligent, and additional programming meant it could also control automatic transmissions and other powertrain functions. The firmware could also be reprogrammed (“reflashed”) via the same OBD-II port. With the introduction of the JTEC, the EGR system was dropped from Magnum engines.[15]

Magnum 3.9L V6 [ edit ]

When the 5.2L V8 was introduced in 1992, the often-forgotten V6 version of the Magnum engine became available in the Ram pickup and the more compact Dodge Dakota. Based on the LA-series 239 cu in (3.9 L) V6, the 3.9 L featured the same changes and upgrades as the other Magnum engines. The 3.9-liter engine can be better understood by imagining a 5.2-liter V8 with two cylinders removed.

Power increased significantly compared to the previous TBI engine to 180 hp (134 kW) at 4,400 rpm and from 195 to 220 lb⋅ft (264 to 298 N⋅m) at 3,200 rpm. For 1994 the power was increased to 175 HP (130 kW) reduced, mainly due to the installation of smaller volume exhaust manifolds. Torque values ​​remained the same.[8] For 1997, the 3.9 L engine’s torque output was increased to 305 N⋅m (225 lb⋅ft) with a compression ratio of 9.1:1. The firing order was 1-6-5-4-3-2.[8] This engine was last produced for the 2003 Dodge Dakota pickup. Beginning with the 2004 model year, it was phased out entirely and replaced with the 3.7 L PowerTech V6 engine.

Applications:

Magnum 5.2L V8 [ edit ]

A 5.2 L Magnum V8 as installed in a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

The Magnum 5.2 L, released in 1992, was an evolution of the 318 cu in (5.2 L) 5.2 L LA engine with the same displacement. The 5.2-liter was the first of Magnum’s upgraded engines, followed in 1993 by the 5.9-liter V8 and 3.9-liter V6.

At the time of its introduction, the 5.2 L Magnum was producing 230 hp (172 kW) at 4,100 rpm and 295 lb⋅ft (400 N⋅m) at 3,000 rpm. Production of this engine lasted until 2002, when it was completely replaced by the newer 4.7L PowerTech SOHC V8 engine.

General characteristics:[8]

Engine type: 90° V-8 OHV 2 valves per cylinder

Bore & Stroke: 3.91 in × 3.31 in (99.3 mm × 84.1 mm)

Displacement: 5.2 L (318 cu in)

Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Compression ratio: 9.1:1 due to the 62cc combustion chambers of the Magnum heads

Lubrication: Pressure Feed – Full Flow Filtration

Engine Oil Capacity: 5 quarts (4.7 L) with filter

Cooling system: liquid – forced circulation – ethylene glycol mixture

5.9L Magnum V8 [ edit ]

In 1993, Chrysler Corporation released the next member of the Magnum family: the 5.9 L V8. This was based on the 5.9 L LA series engine and featured the same upgrades and design features as the 5.2 L engine. The standard 5.9 L engine produced 245 hp (183 kW) at 4,000 rpm and 330 lb⋅ft (447 N⋅m) at 3,250 rpm. It was upgraded in 1998 to 245 hp (183 kW) at 4,000 rpm and 335 lb⋅ft (454 N⋅m) at 3,250 rpm. The 5.9-liter engine was factory-installed in 1998-2001 Dodge Dakota R/T pickup trucks and 2000-2003 Dodge Durango R/T SUVs. It was also fitted to the Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.9 which was only available in 1998. The 5.9 L Magnum was available through the 2003 model year when it was replaced by the 5.7 L Hemi V8 engine.

Although the pre-magnum (’71-’92) and magnum versions of the 360 ​​cu in (5.9 L) are both externally balanced, the two are balanced differently (the 360 ​​Magnum uses lighter pistons) and each require a unique one balanced damper. flywheel, drive plate or torque converter. The bore and stroke size was 101.6 mm × 90.9 mm (4 in × 3.58 in); The compression ratio was 9.1:1.[8]

8.0L Magnum V10 [ edit ]

In 1988, when the design for the 5.2 L Magnum V8 came together, consideration was given to the design of a larger V10 iteration intended primarily for use in Dodge Ram 2500 and 3500 pickups. This was to be Chrysler’s first 10-cylinder engine (before the ’92 Viper, see below) and can best be understood as a 5.9L V8 with two additional cylinders. This 8.0 L (488 cu in) engine was based on a cast iron block and rated for 310 hp (231 kW) at 4,100 rpm and 450 lb⋅ft (610 N⋅m) at 2,400 rpm. Bore and stroke was 101.6 mm × 98.6 mm (4 in × 3.88 in); compression ratio was 8.4:1; The firing order was 1-10-9-4-3-6-5-8-7-2.[8] Valve covers were die-cast magnesium (AZ91D alloy) rather than stamped steel; This lowered the noise level and provided a better sealing of the gasket.

First available in the 1994 model year for the Dodge Ram 2500 and 3500 pickups, the 8.0 L Magnum V10 was the most powerful gasoline engine available in a passenger pickup at the time. The engine lasted through the 2003 model year, after which it was discontinued.[2]

Applications:

1994-2003 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 Pickup

Magnums today[edit]

Chrysler offers a line of crate engines based on the Magnum that can be bolted to older muscle cars and street rods with minor modifications. Some of the changes to make this easier were the use of a 1970-93 water pump to allow the use of older pulleys and brackets, and an intake manifold that uses a carburetor instead of electronic fuel injection. With a high-lift cam and single-plane intake, the 5.9 L (360 cu in) crate Magnum was rated at 380 hp (283 kW) with the Magnum heads. Later models with “R/T” or aluminum cylinder heads produced 390 hp (291 kW). A 425 hp (317 kW) bolt-in fuel injection conversion kit is also available.

Identifying a Magnum engine[edit]

The easiest way to tell a bare Magnum block from an LA is to check for the presence of the two crankshaft position sensor mounting bosses on the right rear top surface of the block, just behind the cylinder head deck surface. Bosses = Magnum. Note that the earlier TBI engines also have crank sensors in this location.

All Magnum engines were given a unique engine ID number. This was located on a shallow indentation on the right side of the cylinder block near the oil pan gasket surface. From 1992 to 1998 the ID had 19 digits. An example would be: 4M5.2LT042312345678 -The “4” is the last digit of the engine’s model year. This example is from 1994. -The ‘M’ stands for ‘Mound Road’, the factory where the engine was assembled. Other characters found here would be “S” for Saltillo, “T” for Trenton, and “K” for Toluca. -5.2L has an obvious meaning here: the displacement of the engine in liters. -The seventh character, here a “T”, was the use of the engine. “T” means truck usage. -0423 would mean the engine was produced on April 23rd. -The last eight digits, shown here as “12345678”, are the engine serial number.[8]

From 1998 to 2003, the engine ID was shortened to just 13 characters. It differed in that displacement was given in cubic inches instead of liters, the utility mark was omitted, and the serial number was four digits instead of eight.[8]

To add some confusion, the Magnum name was used not only on 1967-1970 Dodge Passcar Hi-Po engines and on vehicle lines in the late 1970s and 2000s, but also on 4.7L Power Tech V8s (1999+) and the 5.7L “Hemi” V8 in pickup trucks (2003+).

See also[edit]