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Speargun shooting range
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Speargun dry shooting – YouTube
První test funkčnosti a porovnání síly o proti kladkovému luku, střelou do balíku.
Source: www.youtube.com
Date Published: 6/10/2021
View: 908
Speargun shooting range – YouTube
The shooting range of a speargun is not the distance that a spear can travel… but the distance at which you can be sure to bring home the …
Source: www.youtube.com
Date Published: 8/15/2022
View: 1053
7 Common Mistakes Noobs Make with Spearguns
Here are a bunch of common spearfishing mistakes I see often and how you can avo making them yourself!
Source: spearfishing.com.au
Date Published: 3/19/2022
View: 7732
Speargun – Wikipedia
A speargun is a ranged underwater fishing device designed to launch a tethered spear or harpoon to impale fish or other marine animals and targets.
Source: en.wikipedia.org
Date Published: 3/28/2021
View: 7875
Choosing a Speargun | Divewarehouse
A speargun is a piece of equipment that is used to shoot fish whilst diving down underwater or snorkelling. Spearfishing is a hunting sport where you get to …
Source: www.divewarehouse.com.au
Date Published: 8/22/2022
View: 7856
How far away do you really shoot fish?
BTW for me a long shot is like 8-10 feet away from the gun tip and the only time I d anything close to BW was shooting kings from a rig leg in …
Source: spearfishing.world
Date Published: 12/5/2021
View: 349
How Far Can You Shoot A Speargun? – QuestionAnswer.io
Shooting distance of pneumatic spergun is in range 3 – 5 times the lenght of the gun. For any manufacturer or any brand of gun.
Source: questionanswer.io
Date Published: 6/26/2022
View: 2813
7 Common Mistakes Noobs Make with Spearguns
Most of us who have been spearing for a while have forgotten the little things about learning to use a speargun. However, I’ve had a few refreshers recently as I’ve been constantly teaching friends and family how to spearfish. Here are a few common mistakes I see a lot and how to avoid making them yourself!
1. Shoot stones.
Most spearguns have a maximum range of 6-7m. If the fish is 2 meters away from you, that’s great BUT; What’s in the 5m behind? I’ve seen a few enthusiastic pluggers shoot my prized shafts into rocks from just yards away to chase a fish and I’ll be honest sometimes it’s my fault. I’m not explaining the situation well enough. Ideally, you should NEVER shoot your shaft into a rock, and certainly not into (dare I say) anyone else. Rock shooting is a very common mistake for noobs as they often try to shoot fish from top to bottom, often near the surface in shallow water. However, the pointed end will end up looking like this. ALSO pay attention to what’s behind what you’re shooting at in dirty water. The last thing you want to do is shoot someone. To avoid this mistake, try to get to the bottom and shoot fish on the same level as you. The fish will come closer if you can get to the bottom as they think you are less dangerous!
2. Not paying attention to the shooting line path.
All harpoons have slightly different line of fire paths. They also have open muzzles, closed muzzles, and even rolling muzzles that need to be understood. My recommendation is to unload and reload your speargun several times on dry land (without loading the band(s)) to properly understand how to load your gun without getting tangled, frustrated or your speargun in the water improperly manipulated. It’s much easier to learn the firing line path on dry land than it is in the water!
3. Do not treat the loaded speargun like a loaded speargun.
Your finger should NEVER be in the trigger guard unless you are ready to fire. Likewise, your loaded speargun should NEVER be pointed at anyone or anything that could be damaged in the event the speargun is accidentally discharged (it happens). The SECURITY is not SECURE. Let me repeat that. The SAFETY of your speargun is worthless, never trust it, never rely on it. A safe speargun is an unloaded speargun.
4. No inspection and maintenance of speargun.
The shooting line is regularly rubbed on the reef and rocks, it needs to be checked and changed regularly. To check your line of fire, pull out the shaft, run your eyes over it and your fingers from the back of the shaft to where it attaches to the underside of your speargun. Replacing is easy. Watch this video guide. https://youtu.be/RPybDu3YFA0
5. Relying on others to load the gun.
Loading a speargun is difficult at first. It’s especially difficult if you have a smaller frame. However, nobody likes to load spearguns for others and you must take responsibility for it. Loading your own speargun will teach you to take your time shooting, get closer to fish, and loading will become easier over time with more practice. Try this technique from Eckart https://youtu.be/_EH5fWCQo1Q
Everyone struggles with loading a harpoon. If you are REALLY having trouble, take advantage of the charging tabs, charging aids, and two-step charging. Charging pads are your friend!
6. Not tuning the flopper.
This is the most common cause of loss of fish shot with a harpoon. You breathe a sigh of relief, slide to the bottom, gradually race up the reef, approach a curious fish, line up the shot, pull the trigger, see the shaft enter the fish right in the middle AND… the shaft pulls right back through . This is a classic S#!T moment. The reason, however, is plain and simple. Your flopper was out of tune. Check out Daniel Mann’s guide to tuning your floppers to avoid this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dyIQ6wIgDE
7. Too complicated, too fast.
It’s tempting to grab a harpoon with all the bells and whistles. You want every advantage you can get, right? I get it, but you have to respect the learning curve. Spearfishing in the water requires you to relax, hunt, watch your buddy, look out for boats, keep your mask and snorkel clean, fin and exercise, and finally dive. No need to worry about reloading a complex reel speargun OR dealing with a spool of spider web spectra off a reel. Use a simple railgun. Sure, get a two-banded harpoon, but keep it simple (KIS) to win. Until you get a really good handle on your spearfishing equipment, techniques, conditions and your team, you don’t need additional problems!
I hope some of these tips will help you in your spearfishing journey! You are not alone as we all deal with these mistakes and learn the same lessons. I have and still make mistakes!
To learn more and share lessons learned, tune in to the Noob Spearo Podcast. Available in any good podcast app here!
This article is from the Noob Spearo podcast. Be sure to check out the podcast here.
Wikipedia
Device for underwater fishing
Harpoon
Harpoon in use by a diver
A speargun is a remote controlled underwater fishing device designed to launch a tethered spear or harpoon to impale fish or other marine life and targets. Harpoons are used in sport fishing and underwater target shooting. The two basic types are pneumatic and elastic (driven by rubber bands). Spear types come in a number of varieties including threaded, break-away and lined. Floats and buoys are common accessories when targeting larger fish.
Components[edit]
The basic components of a harpoon are a spear, a shaft or barrel, and a handle or grip, which contains a trigger mechanism. Harpoons are usually 0.5 to 2 meters (1.6 to 6.6 ft) long, round or roughly rectangular with a diameter/width of 28 to 75 mm (1.1 to 3.0 in).
Types of harpoons[ edit ]
Spearguns are mostly classified according to the method of propulsion, with the two most common variants being rubber (or tape) and air (pneumatic) propelled.
Band-powered spearguns, which are the easiest and cheapest to maintain, with rubber being the predominant material, come in two types: those made of wood (often referred to as a Hawaiian sling) and those made of sealed metal tubing or composite and/or a combination of these material constructions: referred to as stock or barrel.[1][2]
Barreled spearguns have separate “muzzles” that fit into or over one end of the barrel for attaching the rubber bands. while others (usually those made of wood) pass the ligaments primarily through a horizontal slot in the shaft.
In addition to the barrel, a rubber-operated harpoon has the following parts:
A javelin (a steel shaft slightly longer than the stock/barrel, 6–10 millimeters (0.2–0.4 in) in diameter, resting on top of the barrel or in a track or groove at the top) and a trigger Mechanism for engaging the spear (usually in or near a hilt or grip at or near the rear) to keep the weapon in a loaded ready state when loaded.
Such loading is effected by one or more latex rubber bands (usually tubing) – which provide the motive power – and are about one-third the barrel length and 9–20 millimeters (0.4–0.8 in) in diameter, attached to the front the weapon.
Attached to the ends of these straps are ‘bridles’ or ‘wishbones’ (usually metal or plastic cords) and when these straps are pulled by the diver to snap the ‘wishbones’ into notches in the javelin or ‘fins’ at the top rear short welded in front of the trigger, the gun is loaded.[1]
A pneumatic pistol differs from a rubber model in that it has a thicker spear that goes into a sealed inner barrel encased in a hollow, sealed outer casing that holds the air, which is at ambient pressure until it’s hand-operated on one normally same pressure is inflated into a strong rubber band. The trigger mechanism (which is located on the back of the gun) has a grip/handle below or halfway up the gun. Once the required pressure is reached, the spear is pushed down the barrel to engage the trigger mechanism and is then loaded and ready. There will usually be a strong line at least twice the length of the weapon connecting the spear to the front of the weapon. Great care must be taken when loading as the harpoon is now a dangerous weapon. Without a trigger, rubber bands or air pressure, the harpoon cannot be loaded and therefore not work.[1]
Use of harpoons[edit]
Proper use[edit]
All harpoons have a trigger mechanism that holds a spear in place along the barrel.
Traditionally, rear-handled spearguns have been popular in Europe and medium-handled guns have been used in North America, but as spearfishing has developed into an international sport these distinctions have blurred.
South African harpoon makers have improved harpoon designs by using a rail along the barrel that prevents the spear from bending under the pressure of the rubber bands.
Improper uses[ edit ]
Accessories [edit]
The harpoon can have:
Buoy or float, attached to the harpoon or directly to the spear. It helps to tame big fish. It can also aid in fish storage, but is primarily used as a safety device to warn boaters that divers are in the area. [7]
Floating line connecting the buoy to the harpoon. Often made of woven plastic, they can also be a monofilament encased in an airtight plastic tube or stretchable bungee cord.[7]
Spear wave types [ edit ]
Threaded [edit]
Threaded shanks allow different tips to be used by screwing them on or off. Some tips include a simple short tip with a folding flopper and others use longer tips with a rotating feature, usually with multiple floppers. When targeting larger fish, a breakaway tip is recommended (not to be confused with the breakaway arrangement below) as a portion, typically 10 to 15 centimeters (4 to 6 inches), of the tip can “break off”. away” from the main shaft after penetrating a fish, allowing the shaft to “fall out” of the fish, but the fish connection is maintained by either a small steel cable or high-strength Spectra or Kevlar line.[8]
Hawaiian [ edit ]
Hawaiian shafts are the simplest shafts because the tip is molded at the end and a folding barb is placed just behind the tip to keep the fish from slipping. There are barbs of varying lengths and sometimes multiple (sometimes referred to as a Florida rig).[1]
Harpoon setups [ edit ]
Line rig [ edit ]
In this setup, the most common, the harpoon is attached to the shaft with a line. The line is usually heavy monofilament (140–180 kg (300–400 lb) test), spectra or other spectra-like material (braided line) rated at 180–270+ kg (400–600+ lb). The leash wraps around the base or side of the weapon when loading and releases via a mechanical release or tension release to allow the leash to move after javelin firing. There are usually two different methods of connecting the line to the spear shaft, either a slip ring that moves the shaft up and down to machined holding points, or via a hole drilled through part of the shaft (usually the back). This is the most common method of spearfishing fish and most other types of setups use the shaft connection options mentioned. Some newer setups offer an option to quickly attach or detach the line to a shaft, giving an option for a line or free shaft on a single speargun.[9]
Speed rig [ edit ]
Here the harpoon is connected to a buoy by a floating rope. After spearing a fish, the spearfisher loosens the float line and uses a speed stick (a metal tip) attached to the float line to thread the fish through its gills onto the float line. Then, as the diver swims, the fish gradually slides up the swimmer’s rope until it comes to rest under the buoy. When shooting larger fish, the diver can let go of their gun and play the fish off the float line, giving the fish more room to tire and preventing it from ripping off the spear or dragging the spearfisher underwater.
Break away rig [ edit ]
Here the spear shaft is directly connected to the buoy. He also sits loosely on the gun when hunting, but after firing the spear he releases the leash from the gun through his power of movement. The spearfisherman is then able to subdue the fish from the buoy or floating line while remaining in possession of his weapon. This is for two reasons. First, the gun can be used to repel sharks or give a signal to the boater, and second, to prevent losing the gun if the fish snaps the line or the spearfisherman loses hold of the buoy. This setup can be used in conjunction with a bungee style elastic line and bodyboard style float with locking cleats. This maintains a constant pressure on the fish at a time, allowing the spearfisherman to rest while being hauled around. You can then tighten the bungee line as the fish tires and lock it to gradually draw the fish closer.[8]
Reel on gun[edit]
Here the weapon has a line roller like a fishing rod. After spearing a fish, the reel unwinds, allowing the spearfishing room to play the fish. Reel setups are useful when marine structures such as built reefs or kelp gardens prevent the spearfisherman from towing a buoy.
Here the spear shaft is not connected to a cannon or buoy. This is more commonly associated with spearfishing when diving where excess cable or line can be a problem. It can also be used in areas of exceptionally clear water where underwater hunters can track its shaft after firing. It is not used in murky waters with poor visibility.[10]
Riding device[ edit ]
Here the spear shaft is connected to a monofilament or other small high-strength line that is wrapped around the speargun, and then connected to a larger, easier-to-handle line that the diver holds in their hand. The larger rope has a loop at the end large enough for the diver’s thumb. The rope is placed on the thumb and then wrapped around the back of the hand. In this setup, the spear is also completely free of the weapon, allowing the diver to work the fish with the large line while keeping his weapon secure. If the fish is too big to hold on to, the diver can tie it off or release it, losing only his spear and rope. This is typically used when fishing near oil rigs or other hazardous dives such as hunting for larger fish or when visibility is poor.
See also[edit]
References[ edit ]
Further reading[edit]
Choosing a Speargun
What is a harpoon?
A harpoon is a piece of equipment used to shoot fish while diving or snorkeling underwater. Spearfishing is a hunting sport where you get to choose your fish to eat for dinner, unlike line fishing where you don’t get to choose what you catch. Spearguns come in a variety of brands, lengths, and styles for you to choose from based on your needs. The way a harpoon works is by pulling the rubber down the barrel and hooking the bridle into one of the notches on the spear. When this is done, the gun is loaded and ready to fire. As soon as you pull the trigger, the spear disengages from the mechanism and the rubber propels the spear forward with force to penetrate the fish you are aiming at. A rubber gun is the most popular type of gun, but there are also pneumatic guns that use high-pressure air. Instead of pulling the rubber back to load, you push the spear down the barrel against air pressure until it locks in the mechanism. Once engaged, air pressure propels the javelin forward when the trigger is pulled.
Choosing a harpoon
So you want to start spearfishing and the weapon is next on your list but you have no idea which one is good or which one to get! Well don’t worry we are here to help and this blog will give you some great information about the different brands and styles with features so you can get a good understanding of what you are looking for.
Length:
The length of a speargun is the first question we are asked and it is generally “What length is best for me?”. This question is good and will be answered right here and now! The best speargun length depends on where you are diving in relation to depth. You might want to hang out on the rock faces and jetties in the rivers where the depth can be 5 to 10 meters, or you may have access to a boat and do most of your dives on the open sea reefs at 10 to 30 meters. Depending on where you spend most of your time will determine the length, as if you are generally in shallow water you don’t want a long gun where the entire range hits the seabed or rocks. The firing range of a harpoon is approximately four times the length of the weapon. For example, a 1m cannon has a range of 4m, which includes the cannon barrel, line of fire, and spear. A long gun is more difficult to maneuver in shallow water so maybe a 90cm-110cm gun would be suitable as the smaller fish tend to get closer so you won’t need the range. In the open ocean you hunt bigger fish and they don’t come that close so you would need a longer range for these and 110cm – 140cm would be perfect. If you’re diving in a bit of both, a 110cm would be best, but any good spearfisherman would have two guns. A short reef gun and a longer open water gun.
Style:
There are three different types of harpoons, including a railgun, rollergun, and pneumatic gun. Three very different styles, but the most common is the railgun. This particular weapon is loaded with rubbers that give it power when fired. The spear sits in a rail at the top of the barrel that guides it out smoothly and accurately. It is the most popular gun as there are many different price points within the range and is perfect for beginners to professionals.
The roller gun is the newest on the market and although very similar to the rail the rubbers are much longer giving more power and firing range with a shorter gun length. This style is more used for advanced divers looking to spend a little more on their gun and hunting large pelagic fish in open water.
The pneumatic gun is air operated and does not get its power from rubbers. There is an air reservoir in the barrel that is inflated. When the spear is loaded, it pushes a piston against the compressed air so that when fired, the high-pressure air propels the spear. This particular gun would be the least popular as the gun needs to be serviced every year which incurs a fee. Many boat owners use these cannons to jump overboard, shoot their dinner, and head back.
features
trigger mechanism:
The trigger mechanism holds the javelin in place and releases it when the trigger is pulled. It is generally a cartridge that can be removed from the handle for cleaning or replacement. All harpoons have a trigger mech, but they come in a variety of styles and materials. Some of the entry-level guns are made of cheaper plastic and are made in China. As you spend more on the gun the plastics will be of better quality and made in Italy or South Africa etc. The best trigger mechanisms are all metal and these are extremely durable and strong.
Snout:
Closed snout Half-closed snout Open snout
The muzzle is at the top of the barrel and where the spear is held to prevent it from detaching from the barrel. There are 3 different types of muzzles including an open muzzle, a semi-enclosed muzzle and a closed muzzle. The spear is held by the monofilament line through the open muzzle, this is safe and prevents the shaft from rattling under water. The semi-closed muzzles have a small piece of plastic at the top to hold the spear inside, but the rest of the muzzle is open so it doesn’t restrict the movement of the rubber bands. The closed muzzles have a fully closed top and hold the rubber securely in place. The closed snout can cause the rubber to break down faster due to the restriction it places on it.
Spear:
The spear goes through the fish you just shot. They are generally made of spring steel or stainless steel and can vary in length and thickness. Depending on what size pistol you have will determine the length of spear you will use. The spears are designed to overhang approximately 20cm from the muzzle, allowing you to aim using the spearhead as a guide. The spears we stock at Dive Warehouse have notches in them where the bridle hooks, however some spears have fins instead of notches. They are available in various thicknesses from 6mm to 7.5mm in 0.5mm increments. The thicker the spear, the better and stronger it will be. So if you are shooting big pelagic fish we recommend at least 7mm or 7.5mm.
The line:
The line keeps the spear attached to the harpoon to prevent it from being lost or taken away by a fish. It is generally made from a monofilament but can also be made from a choke cord. The mono is more common and definitely more durable as it doesn’t buckle into knots. The mono is attached to the weapon and spear by metal clamps that hold it in place and prevent it from slipping out. A crimping tool is recommended to get the most out of the crimps.
gums:
The rubber on a speargun gives you the power to shoot. Harpoon rubber comes in many different thicknesses and depending on how much power you want will determine what thickness of rubber you get. Most cannons come standard 16mm thick as this is generally enough power to pierce small to medium sized fish, which is what most Speros prefer. Double 14mm rubbers are becoming more popular as they are easier to load and when doubled you get as much performance as a single 16mm rubber, even a little more. When hunting larger Pelajic fish, dual 16mm elastics are popular or swap out for a single 18mm or even a 20mm elastic. These are of course much heavier to load but will give you the ultimate power to penetrate through big fish.
There is no rule for rubbers, it’s entirely up to you and they are interchangeable, so don’t feel like you’re limited to the rubber that comes standard with your gun. Here at Dive Warehouse we manufacture new rubbers in all of the above gauges to suit your needs.
Quality:
The quality of each weapon varies and how much you pay for it will determine the quality. For example, if you buy a gun for $99 (which is one of our popular price points), you get a great gun at $99 in quality. There will be fewer metal components with more plastic that will be cheaper quality. If you take care of this weapon it will last a long time but requires a good TLC. Don’t worry about it and it won’t be long. Buying a gun for around $500 will get you a much better quality device with more durable plastic and metal parts that will last for many years. You get what you pay for, which is a general rule for most things in life.
The brands:
We stock some great well known brands here at Dive Warehouse including Rob Allen, Cressi, Mares, Sal Vimar and Ocean Hunter. These have been around for many years and are all reputable brands making great products.
Happy hunting!
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