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Table of Contents
Where is the best place to store gunpowder?
STORE IN A COOL, DRY PLACE. Be sure the storage area selected is free from any possible sources of excess heat and is isolated from open flame, furnaces, hot water heaters, etc. Do not store smokeless powder where it will be exposed to the sun’s rays.
Does black powder become unstable with age?
Black powder is a mixture of sulphur, saltpeter and charcoal. Because there is no chemical bonding of the components black powder has an extremely long life when property stored. Even when it is not, it can be quite volatile after very long periods.
Is it safe to store black powder?
Storage: To protect against moisture, heat, sparks, and static electricity, store black powder and substitutes in their original containers with the size plainly labeled. Keep the container tightly sealed. Do not store powders in glass containers because glass can produce static electricity.
What should I store my black powder in?
The powder should always be stored in its original container, away from heat and humidity. It may not be stored in a metal container. In case of explosion, it can turn into a real grenade. Also, do not place the powder in the car or in direct sunlight.
Is it safe to store gun powder in the house?
STORE GUNPOWDER IN A COOL, DRY PLACE. Be sure the reloading powder storage area selected is free from any possible sources of excess heat and is isolated from open flame, furnaces, hot water heaters, etc. Do not store smokeless powder where it will be exposed to sunrays.
Smokeless Powders, Storage, and Measuring
What is the estimated durability of gunpowder?
The estimated shelf life of Vihtavuori gunpowders is at least 10 years when stored and sealed in their original containers at a temperature of approximately 20°C/68°F and relative humidity of 55-65%.
How do I store reloading powder?
STORE GUNPOWDER IN A COOL, DRY PLACE. Ensure the chosen storage area for the reload powder is free from possible sources of excessive heat and is isolated from open flames, stoves, water heaters, etc. Do not store smokeless powder in places where it will be exposed to the sun’s rays. Avoid storing in areas where mechanical or electrical equipment is operating. Keep storage areas away from heat or sparks that may result from improper, defective, or overloaded electrical circuits.
DO NOT STORE SMOKELESS POWDER IN THE COMMON AREA WITH SOLVENTS, FLAMMABLE GASES OR FLAMMABLE MATERIALS. STORE ONLY IN DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORT APPROVED CONTAINERS.
Do not transfer powder from an approved container to an unapproved one.
DO NOT SMOKE IN AREAS WHERE POWDER IS STORED OR USED. Post appropriate NO SMOKING signs in these areas.
STORAGE CABINETS SHOULD BE CONSTRUCTED OF INSULATING MATERIALS AND WITH WEAK WALLS, SEAMS OR JOINTS TO PROVIDE EASY MEANS OF SELF-VENTILATION.
DO NOT STORE OLD OR MINING POWDERS. Check old powders regularly for expiration. Destroy damaged powder immediately.
FOLLOW ALL REGULATIONS REGARDING QUANTITIES AND STORAGE METHODS. Don’t keep all your powders in one place. If possible, maintain separate storage locations. Many small containers are safer than one or more large containers.
KEEP YOUR STORAGE AND USE AREA CLEAN. Clean up spilled powder immediately. Make sure the area is free of garbage or other easily combustible materials.
The above information is provided with permission from SAAMI: SPORTING ARMS AND MUNITION MANUFACTURERS’ INSTITUTE, INC. PO PO Box 838, Branford, CT 06405.
How long does gunpowder stay good?
When properly stored, an unopened container of smokeless powder has an indefinite shelf life, but once it is opened, the stabilizers it contains begin to slowly but surely weaken. Even then it can still last for a very long time.
Smokeless Powders, Storage, and Measuring
By Layne Simpson
You can check powders by sniffing them, and in some cases a visual inspection of the powder or packaging can tell you if something is wrong.
When stored properly, an unopened container of smokeless powder has an indefinite shelf life, but once opened, the stabilizers it contains slowly but surely begin to weaken. Even then it can take a long time.
In the 1960’s a hunting friend and I pooled our resources and purchased a 60 lb Bruce Hodgdon H4831 barrel. We’ve loaded it in everything from the .220 Swift to the .300 H&H Magnum, and while velocity wasn’t as great with the Swift as with a faster-burning powder, accuracy was great, coming in at 60 cents a pound who cares up for a few extra fps in bullet speed?
I still have a few pounds of this powder and as far as I can tell it’s as good as it was when I bought it more than 40 years ago. Hodgdon had bought the powder on the military surplus market, so one can only guess how long it was actually in production.
Powder in loaded ammunition can also have a very long lifespan. I’m told that some of the .50 BMG used in Desert Storm had been in storage since the 1940’s.
Commercially loaded ammunition can last just as long. Up until a few years ago, the tables of a dealer attending a local gun fair would always be full of beautiful old ammo boxes, some dating back to the late 19th century. Most of this was for collectors, but he often offered cartridges much cheaper in slightly damaged packaging.
I bought a case of .22 Hi-Power ammo loaded by Savage in the 1920’s and not only did I fire every round in my Savage 99, it was pretty accurate too. This ammunition was probably almost 80 years old when I shot it.
Exposing powder to adverse conditions can significantly reduce its lifespan, even if the container has never been opened. A while ago a friend who had just finished a large storage building on his farm invited me to share some of it, so I stored there, among other things, several unopened canisters of powder.
The building was not heated or air-conditioned, so the inside temperature ranged from extremely hot in summer to extremely cold in winter. I actually forgot the powder was there and didn’t retrieve it until about 10 years later. Two of the canisters had obviously gone bad and while the others might have been fine I disposed of them as well.
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You can tell if a can of powder is good or bad by sniffing the contents. If the odor ranges from no detectable odor to alcohol, ether, or acetone (due to its solvent content), then it’s fine. If you’re getting a horribly unpleasant, acrid smell that’s frying your nasal passages, extreme deterioration has taken place. The smell is hard to describe, but my nose says the experience is pretty much like taking a strong whiff of the fumes generated by hydrochloric acid.
Any change – whether physical, chemical or otherwise – indicates the time for disposal. If brown or rust-colored smoke escapes when the container is opened, the powder is unsuitable for use. The plastic lid on one of the powder containers that has gone bad on mine was originally blue in color, and the chemical changes that were taking place inside had actually bleached it snow white. Also, the sudden rusting of the metal lid of a container is a sure sign that something bad is going on inside.
If you suddenly notice large variations in velocity from shot to shot, or a noticeable reduction in the velocity of a favored charge, the powder can you’re using may not be entirely bad, but it will likely get there sooner rather than later. Although very rare, powder can decompose to the point of spontaneous combustion—another reason to occasionally sniff test every opened canister in your reload room.
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It’s okay to load ammo in the garage or other uncontrolled area, but powder should be stored in a cool, dry place. Discussing the issue recently with Ron Reiber, chief ballistician at Hodgdon Powders, he pointed out that powders in usable condition, properly stored around the home, are actually safer than some of the aerosol products commonly used there.
But we are talking about reasonable amounts here. Those who have amassed enough supplies to sustain a small army should consider other alternatives. One of my neighbors who will probably never have to buy another primer or a pound of powder for the rest of his life uses several old refrigerators that sit in an isolated outbuilding.
Powder manufacturers recommend disposing of damaged powder by burning small amounts (one pound or less) in a secluded area. The pile should be spread out so that it is less than an inch deep and reserved enough to form a narrow igniter train reaching a safe distance. If you lay out a sheet of crumpled newspaper at the end of the move and light it with a match, you’ll have time to retreat even further before the main pile of powder starts to burn.
Like fertilizer, smokeless powder contains nitrates, so spreading it thinly over the lawn is another option.
It’s impossible for me to squeeze every detail on this subject into the confines of my allotted space, so I urge all handloaders to search the internet for “smokeless powder storage”. If you have any questions, call Alliant Powder Technical Service at (800) 276-9337 and ask for their free Reloader’s Guide. In addition to the rules and regulations that apply to powder storage, it contains loading data for shotguns, rifles and handguns on around 70 pages. A similar brochure on IMR powders is available from Hodgdon at (913) 362-9455.
What happens if gunpowder gets wet?
What Happens to Gunpowder When it Gets Wet? Black gunpowder can be permanently ruined upon contact with water. It is made from a mixture of potassium nitrate (also called saltpeter), sulfur, and charcoal. Since saltpeter is highly water-soluble, it will dissolve into the water and wash out completely.
Smokeless Powders, Storage, and Measuring
Maybe your grandfather gave you a few kilos of spout powder.
More often than not, people leave gunpowder lying around in their garage for years, unaware that the “lasts a lifetime” promise isn’t quite right.
You may have completely forgotten about the old stuff, but it can be quite dangerous if it falls into the wrong hands.
To prevent misuse of your old gunpowder and keep your family safe, it’s best to get rid of it soon. How to Dispose of Gunpowder Safely: Let’s take a look.
How to dispose of gunpowder safely
Before delving into the proper techniques for safely disposing of gunpowder, consider that it comes in two forms.
Your gunpowder can be smokeless powder or black powder, and both have very different reactions. So it’s important to use the right measures to ensure they don’t explode into your hands and cause severe burns.
Here are some general ways you can dispose of both powders. We also covered more in-depth techniques for each type of powder later in this post.
Contact your local P.D.
Your local police department or bomb disposal team will likely agree to get the gunpowder off your hands.
This is the surest way to get rid of any type of gunpowder, knowing that you can no longer be accused of using it. The bomb boys will use it for training and drills.
Visit a gun shop nearby
Another option is to call a local ammo store and see if they know people who reload.
Usually these people are safe gun owners, and you can even ask the ammo store to only direct you to people you trust.
Sell it online
There will always be some gun lovers around who would love to get their hands on the old gunpowder. For them it is a form of antique collection.
However, they should try to exercise some due diligence to ensure they are not engaging in any illegal practices or crimes involving the gunpowder.
Have a few conversations and find out what kind of people they are beforehand.
You also need to be careful when shipping the powder to the buyer. Most shipping companies will refuse to transport it, so try to find a buyer who lives nearby and can easily pick it up from you.
Smokeless vs Black Powder
If the above options don’t work and you need to figure out how to dispose of gunpowder on your own, you first need some more information on what you’re dealing with.
For safe disposal of smokeless or black gunpowder, you should know how their reactions differ.
Smokeless powder is a type of propellant used in firearms while black powder is explosive.
The former produces very limited amounts of smoke, hence the name, but black gunpowder produces enough smoke to alert authorities and cause problems.
It is also important to remember that smokeless gunpowder is almost three times stronger than black and can cause a stronger reaction.
How to dispose of smokeless gunpowder
The burn rate of smokeless gunpowder is quite high.
It rises even more when under high pressure, and the lack of smoke released can make it difficult to spot.
Because of this, it’s always safer to dispose of any smokeless gunpowder you may have on hand. Here’s how to do it.
light it up
Since smokeless gunpowder is non-explosive and does not emit fumes, it is safe to light in your backyard.
However, you must take extreme precautions to ensure you are out of the way and all safety protocols are followed.
Always light a pound and a time and no more to keep the flames from getting out of hand.
You also need to visit the ammo store and buy a fuse for this process. Using a long fuse will keep you at a safe distance from gunpowder when it’s burning.
There are two ways to light your smokeless gunpowder.
Make a trail
Take the powder you want to dispose of and pour it onto your sidewalk in a straight line.
Only use a little at a time, then light the powder with your fuse.
Because the smokeless powder is non-explosive, it will slowly burn down the trail you create. You can even use this technique to get rid of unwanted weeds in your garden.
dig a ditch
Another way to light your smokeless gunpowder is to dig a small ditch in your yard. Make it just low enough to contain the flames and make sure they don’t reach the bottom.
You also need to be careful not to dig your trench near trees as these can catch flames and lead to a growing fire.
Pour a pound of powder into the ditch.
Then get to a safe distance and light the powder with your fuse. Repeat as many times as necessary to ensure all powder is discarded.
Use as fertilizer
In smaller amounts, your smokeless gunpowder can actually be used as a fairly effective fertilizer.
Gunpowder is high in nitrogen, which can be really good for your plant’s growth. An environmentally friendly way to dispose of your gunpowder is to lightly dust the bottom of your plans with it.
However, be careful not to add too much as it can blow your breath into the air and become a health hazard.
How to dispose of black gunpowder
Black powder is more volatile when stored; Therefore, you cannot just toss it in the trash or flush it down.
Several waste disposal facilities accept black gunpowder, so this is always a good option. However, if you want to avoid the trip, here are some easy ways to get rid of black powder.
Trade with an arms dealer
Go to your local gun range or gun dealer and tell them you need to dispose of black powder.
They will put up a sign for any interested customers. They might even make you an offer themselves.
Mix with wet dirt
You can also mix the black gunpowder with some damp dirt to make it inert.
The water content of the dirt will leach out the potassium nitrate in your gunpowder due to its water solubility. So your gunpowder loses its reactivity.
PS This will also serve as a wonderful fertilizer for your garden!
How do you know if your gunpowder is still good?
Over the years, your gunpowder slowly loses its magic and reaches the end of its life cycle.
While proper storage can easily delay this process, the expiration date is only inevitable, and before long your gunpowder will be of no use.
It’s best to say goodbye to bad gunpowder, and you definitely don’t want it lying around on your property. A useful trick to tell if your gunpowder has gone bad is the sniff test.
Gunpowder is generally a mixture of charcoal with potassium nitrate and some sulfur.
When it goes bad, the nitrocellulose components start to deteriorate, releasing a solvent called acetic acid. You may know acetic acid as ordinary household vinegar – yes, they are one and the same.
A long sniff and you’ll immediately smell the characteristic sour vinegar smell that indicates gunpowder has gone bad.
The color of your gunpowder can also indicate if it is about to expire. When gunpowder goes bad, the individual grains of your powder will appear a red tint. It usually resembles rust-colored dust in your powder container.
So you’ll know it’s time to follow our gunpowder disposal tips.
What happens to gunpowder when it gets wet?
Black Gunpowder can be permanently destroyed on contact with water. It is made from a mixture of potassium nitrate (also called saltpeter), sulfur and charcoal.
Since saltpetre is highly soluble in water, it dissolves in water and is completely washed out. This will render your gunpowder useless, and you might as well dispose of it soon.
PS Keep in mind that this only takes place when the gunpowder is exposed to sufficient water. Simply dampening the powder with a little water will not have the same effect.
Can you flush gunpowder down the toilet?
Only in very small amounts.
If you spilled a tiny bit of gunpowder, you can flush it down your toilet, followed by continuous water for 5-7 minutes to ensure all the saltpeter it contains is washed away.
This would render the gunpowder useless and works for both black and smokeless powder.
However, if you plan on dumping a pound or more of your gunpowder down the toilet, we strongly advise against it. Gunpowder of both types is extremely dangerous.
If flushed down your toilet, it can reach your water supply and pipes.
If it eventually makes its way into your local waters, it could cause an environmental disaster.
Furthermore, when this contaminated water flows into our pipes, people will bathe in it, cook with it, and even drink it! This can pose a massive health risk to everyone around you.
What makes gunpowder explode?
The reason gunpowder seems to explode is because one of its main properties is that it burns extremely quickly.
When gunpowder is compressed in a keg, it is tightly packed in a confined space to exert high pressure on it.
Therefore, when it lights up, the rapid burning in this pressurized, confused compartment will cause the gases to build up and you’ll have an explosion on your hands (we hope not literally!).
How to distinguish the smells of good and bad gunpowder?
This one is pretty easy. Good gunpowder smells like acetone, which is the scent of nail polish remover, rubbing alcohol, or furniture polish.
On the other hand, bad gunpowder has a pungent vinegar smell.
last words
If your gunpowder has gone bad or you are simply not going to use it, the wise decision would be to follow the gunpowder disposal techniques above as soon as possible.
You can light it in small batches, sprinkle it on your plants as a small treat, or even dilute it with water to make it unresponsive. Whichever method you choose, always make sure you follow safety precautions and keep it away from small children or pets.
In the wrong hands, your gunpowder stash could do a lot of damage and even take lives. If you’re planning on handing it to an ammo lover, make sure he’s reliable and healthy enough not to cause problems.
Also, make sure you do some background checks to see if it would be safe for them to have that gunpowder. Remember that the surrender can always be traced back to you and any crime committed could list you as the provider.
All the best and stay healthy!
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What temperature should black powder be stored at?
Storage temperature should not exceed 150 F. If you heat black powder slowly, once the temperature of the powder reaches 180 F a small portion of the sulfur begins to go from the solid state to the gaseous state without going through the liquid phase.
Smokeless Powders, Storage, and Measuring
Remember that heat, and only heat, ignites gunpowder.
The only documented incidents of black powder igniting without an “external” ignition source involved storing black powder in a damp or wet state. There is a paper from the U.S. Bureau of Mines about it, dating back to World War II.
In some blasting jobs, they wet the powder and then stuff it into the blast hole. This reduces any fragmentation effect on the rock around the blast hole.
The paper went into the wet powder, which underwent a chemical reaction that annihilates heat. With large quantities stored in a shed, the heat is not dissipated. When the temperature of the powder approaches the boiling point of water, the sulfur begins to turn into a gas and becomes highly reactive in the powder. These generate even more heat. Eventually the ignition temperature is reached and then the mass ignites.
In this scenario, the entire powder mass is slowly heated so that almost the entire mass reaches the ignition temperature at the same time. The resulting explosion mimics the detonation of the mass. Keep in mind that BP is not a true detonating explosive as it is a compound explosive incapable of achieving detonation velocities within the powder mass. But under the circumstances described, it will mimic a real detonation with an explosive effect.
That’s just impossible when you’re dealing with a few cans of powder. it can only happen in a large crowd.
If you try to reproduce this with just a few cans, the rising gas pressure inside the can will simply blow the caps off the cans or tear the seam on the side of the can. Once opened to the atmosphere, any sulfur fumes produced are simply carried into the air.
Generally when stored black powder rises it is because there has been a malfunction in some electrical wiring in the building or some very sensitive explosives or detonators have been stored with it.
With our cans or plastic bottles, you should keep them outside the home. Not in the house. Stored in an ATF-approved magazine away from an occupied dwelling.
Storage temperature should not exceed 150 F. If you heat black powder slowly, once the temperature of the powder reaches 180 F, a small portion of the sulfur will begin to transition from the solid to the gaseous state without going through the liquid phase. In the solid state, sulfur is relatively inactive. But in the gaseous state, the sulfur can become very reactive and “attack” the potassium nitrate. This generates/develops heat. If the heat is not dissipated, this chemical change process becomes a self-accelerating decomposition reaction that generates even more heat.
If the powder is stored wet, it may not require an external heat source to start this reaction. And by wet I mean several percent of moisture in the powder, not the fractions of a percent or about a percent that you commonly see with black powder.
E. Ogre
How long does ammo stay good for?
Ammunition isn’t a perishable good – if stored correctly, it can last almost indefinitely. Whether it was stored correctly or not is another matter. Ammunition isn’t like the still-edible 5000-year-old honey found in Egyptian tombs; ready to eat and spread on toast.
Smokeless Powders, Storage, and Measuring
Munitions aren’t like the still-edible 5,000-year-old honey found in Egyptian tombs; ready to eat and spread on toast. It has a limited shelf life dependent on factors such as storage location, exposure to moisture, temperature changes, exposure to light, proper sealing, and lead or steel housing.
Before you fire your gun, you need to make sure you’re not using bad ammo. Firing ammunition that has gone bad can be harmful to your gun and dangerous to yourself. This article will show you how to extend the life of your ammo by creating the perfect storage environment.
What is the worst case scenario for firing old ammo?
So you found a box of ammo that you kept and forgot. The cartridges look reasonable. Sure they’re not new, but they’re not rusty even though you’ve had them for a long time.
These are the most common glitches that can occur when you pull the trigger:
misfire. The primer will not ignite the powder. This is probably the most common side effect of old ammo.
Explosive crystals increase the explosive power of ammunition. Explosive crystals form through a chemical process, making ammo more powerful and damaging the firearm when fired.
Acid reaction when burning. This will expose your weapon to acidic fumes that will impair its function.
gelation. This reduces the performance of the ammunition and, like a wet primer, the bullet cannot be ejected when fired. This will jam the barrel, making the next round fired into the jammed barrel extremely dangerous and unpredictable. If you fire your gun and there is an unusual noise, safely unload the gun and run a rod through the barrel to ensure no bullet is stuck.
How long does ammo last?
Modern ammo will last over a decade (and possibly up to twenty years) provided you follow proper storage practices.
The usable durability of ammo is relative and based on several considerations. These depend on the loading methods, the quality and the components of the respective manufacturer such as powder, primer type and sealant.
Steel-cased ammunition is more prone to rust than brass-cased ammunition. Also, a bullet with exposed lead is more likely to deteriorate than a full metal jacket bullet.
Ammo manufacturers limit their exposure to liability by being more conservative about durability (not to mention they will sell more ammo cases by encouraging more frequent purchases).
Proper storage allows your ammo to last longer
The durability of your ammunition depends on the conditions in which you store it, how you limit exposure to high and low temperatures, humidity and other factors.
Each time you take ammo out of storage, you start the clock expiring on your ammo. Any ammunition you take into the field, whether hunting or at the range, should be used first.
Try to separate ammo that you have taken out but not used from the newer cartridges that have not yet been stored. While this ammo doesn’t become unusable immediately, it’s worth keeping an eye on over time.
Remember to rotate your ammo, especially with concealed carry firearms
Proper ammunition storage is critical for firearms you can rely on in an emergency, such as a rifle. B. Your concealed firearm. Such a weapon could go years without being fired. Although most manufacturers recommend not using ammunition that is more than ten years old, it is better to be safe than sorry. After a few years, use these older cartridges at the first opportunity, perhaps to get some practice at the range.
Tips on storing ammo to extend its life
Store your ammo in a cool, dry place
This room should only be exposed to the air to a very limited extent, have low temperature fluctuations and low levels of extreme humidity and moisture. Constant exposure to moisture is the number one cause of ammunition degradation, especially when it comes to corrosion. Guns and ammo love a dry environment, such as in a special pistol case with ammo cutouts.
Ammo boxes are the best storage option.
A gun case needs to seal tightly to keep out elements that can damage your ammo. British gun cases are watertight, airtight, weatherproof and contain desiccants to prevent rust.
Another viable option is to use high-capacity plastic ammo cans. These are watertight, O-ring sealed cases that allow ammo to be stored for several years.
Vacuum pack for freshness
If you have a vacuum sealer it will preserve your ammo well. If you seal it this way, add some silica gel packets to absorb ambient moisture.
Check the temperature
Whichever container you store the ammo in, make sure the temperature is consistent and cool. Extreme heat and cold interact with moisture in the air, and when this enters your case or pod, the invisible but inevitable chemical reaction begins to damage your ammunition. This is especially true in coastal areas where salt is present.
Go dark
Limit the exposure of your ammunition to the sun. Direct OR reflected light can cause deterioration over time. So always keep your cartridges in a dark place.
Avoid oils, solvents or other chemicals
It is possible that these solvents can atmospherically penetrate the cartridge and damage the powder or cause corrosion of the housing. Avoid storing them in the same place as your ammo to avoid mishaps.
Don’t store ammo in places that will shake, rattle, and roll
Keeping ammo in places that get a lot of movement, like the trunk of your car, is a bad plan. Cartridges hitting each other can eventually deteriorate or become damaged.
Final Thoughts
Proper storage is a must if you want to get the best results from your ammo. Store your ammunition in an environment that excludes moisture, humidity and temperature extremes, sealed from air currents and other harmful factors that can degrade the cartridge and alter its chemical composition.
Creating the perfect environment for your guns and ammo is an investment that every serious gun owner should make. We recommend specific gun and ammo storage cases that are ideal whether you are storing them at home or on the go.
We hope this article has helped you. As always, write to us if you have any questions about the safe storage of guns and ammunition.
SAFE BLACK POWDER STORAGE
See some more details on the topic how to store black powder here:
How to store black powder? – Fusil Calais
The powder should always be stored in its original container, away from heat and humity. … It may not be stored in a metal container. In case of explosion, it …
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Where do you store your Black Powder? – SASS Wire Forum
Store the BP in the driest most temperature constant place in the house/garage. OLG …
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Storing Blackpowder
The storage and rules for storing black powder is one of the main reasons many places quit selling black powder.
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Safe black powder storage? – The Muzzleloading Forum
You want non-static plastic, and preferably dark. The bags the bulk powder are shipped in are non-static much like electronic circuit boards …
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safe storage of black powder | The High Road
I would use the spare bedroom. DO NOT use the metal ammo can for storage unless you remove the l. A wooden box, well vented to reduce pressure …
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Is black powder safe to store? – Oven Via
Storage: To protect against moisture, heat, sparks, and static electricity, store black powder and substitutes in their original containers …
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How Long Does Black Powder Last? | Survival Junkies
When stored correctly, black powder lasts indefinitely. A dry, cool location will be optimal for storage, but even if black …
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Safest way to store black powder. : r/blackpowder – Reddit
Keep it in the original container, at a consistent average temperature, and away from surfaces susceptible to static discharge.
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Storage & Handling
Storage & Handling
Handloading ammunition has become increasingly popular in recent years. This page discusses the properties of smokeless powder and offers recommendations for its storage. This information is intended to increase the knowledge of all concerned individuals and groups regarding smokeless powder.
The statements and recommendations made are not intended to supersede local, state, or federal regulations. The relevant authorities should be consulted on the regulations for the storage and use of smokeless powder in each specific community.
A booklet titled “SPORTING MUNITION PRIMERS: PROPERTIES, HANDLING, & STORAGE FOR HAND LOADING” accompanies this smokeless powder page.
Properties of smokeless powders
Smokeless powders or propellants are essentially mixtures of chemicals designed to burn at the right rate under controlled conditions to propel a projectile out of a gun.
Smokeless powders are manufactured in three forms:
Thin, round flakes or waffles Small cylinders Small spheres Monobasic smokeless powders derive their primary energy source from nitrocellulose.
The energy released by dual base smokeless powders comes from both nitrocellulose and nitroglycerin.
All smokeless powders are highly flammable; They are designed to burn quickly and vigorously when ignited.
Oxygen from the air is not required for the combustion of smokeless powders because they contain enough built-in oxygen to burn completely, even in a confined space like a firearm’s chamber.
In fact, ignition occurs when the powder grains are heated above their ignition temperature. This can occur if the powder is exposed to:
A flame such as B. a match or primers. An electrical spark or the sparks of welding, grinding, etc. Heat from an electric hot plate or a fire directed at or near a closed container, even if the powder itself is not exposed to the flame.
Information provided by S A A M I
Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute, Inc.
FLINTLOCK RIDGE OFFICE CENTER, 11 MILE HILL ROAD
NEWTOWN, CT 06470-2359
When smokeless powder burns, it produces a lot of gas at high temperature. When the powder is trapped, this gas creates pressure in the surrounding structure. However, the rate of gas evolution is such that the pressure can be kept low if there is space or the gas can escape.
In this respect, smokeless powder differs from explosives or explosives such as dynamite or explosive gelatin, although smokeless powder may contain chemical constituents common to some of these products.
High explosives such as dynamite are detonated, i. H. transition from the solid state to the gaseous state, developing intense heat at such a rapid rate that shock waves propagate through any medium that comes into contact with them. Such shock waves put pressure on everything they touch, and as a practical matter it is almost impossible to satisfactorily deduce the effects of a detonation with any significant amount of dynamite.
Smokeless powder differs significantly in its burning properties from conventional “black powder”.
Black powder burns in the open air (indefinitely) at essentially the same rate as in a gun.
If ignited in an uncontained state, smokeless powder will burn inefficiently with an orange flame. It produces a significant amount of light brown, foul-smelling smoke. It leaves a residue of ash and partially burned powder. The flame is hot enough to cause severe burns.
The opposite is true when it burns under pressure, like a cartridge fired in a gun. Then it produces very little smoke, a small glow and leaves very little or no residue. The burning rate of smokeless powder increases with increasing pressure.
When burning smokeless powder becomes trapped, the gas pressure increases and can eventually cause the container to rupture. In such circumstances, the rupture of a strong container produces effects similar to an explosion.
For this reason, the Department of Transportation (formerly the Interstate Commerce Commission) sets specifications for propellant shipping containers and requires loaded containers to be tested – under actual fire conditions – before they are approved for use.
When smokeless powder in D.O.T. approved containers are ignited during such tests, container seams burst open or lids pop off – to release gases and powders from the enclosure at low pressure.
How to check smokeless powder for deterioration
Although modern smokeless powders are inherently free from spoilage under proper storage conditions, safe practices require recognizing the signs of decay and its possible effects.
The deterioration of the powder can be checked by opening the lid of the container and smelling the contents. Powder that is in the state of decay has an irritating sour odor. (Don’t confuse this with common solvent smells like alcohol, ether, and acetone.)
Make sure the powder is not exposed to extreme heat as this can cause deterioration. Such exposure generates acidity which accelerates further reaction and is known to cause auto-ignition due to the heat generated by the reaction.
Never use powder from old cartridges and do not attempt to mix reclaimed powder with new powder. Do not collect old powder supplies.
The best way to dispose of spoiled smokeless powder is to burn it in small shallow piles (no more than 1 inch deep) outdoors in an isolated location. The amount burned in a pile should never exceed one pound. Use a primer of slow-burning combustible material to allow the person to retreat to a safe distance before the powder ignites.
Smokeless Powder Storage Considerations
Smokeless powder is said to work by burning, so it must be protected from accidental exposure to flame, sparks, or high temperatures.
For these reasons, it is desirable that storage cases are made of insulating materials to protect the powder from external heat sources.
Typically, once smokeless powder begins to burn, it will continue to burn (and generate gas pressure) until consumed.
POINT. Approved containers are designed to open at low internal pressure to avoid the effects that would normally result from a strong container rupturing or bursting.
Smokeless powder storage rooms should be constructed in a similar manner: 1. Made of fireproof and heat-insulating materials to protect the contents from external heat. 2. Sufficiently large to satisfactorily vent the gaseous products of combustion that would result if the quantity of smokeless powder within the case were accidentally ignited.
When a small, tightly sealed storage case is loaded to capacity with containers of smokeless powder, the case will expand or move outward to release the gas pressure—if the stored powder is accidentally ignited.
Under such conditions, the effects of the release of gas pressure are similar or identical to the effects of an explosion.
As such, only the smallest practical amounts of smokeless powder should be stored, and then in strict compliance with all applicable regulations and recommendations from the National Fire Protection Association (scroll down to read).
Recommendations for storing smokeless powder
STORE IN A COOL AND DRY PLACE. Ensure that the storage area chosen is insulated from possible sources of excessive heat and from open flames, stoves, water heaters, etc. Do not store smokeless powder in places where it will be exposed to the sun’s rays. Avoid storing in areas where mechanical or electrical equipment is operating. Keep storage areas away from heat or sparks that may result from improper, defective, or overloaded electrical circuits.
DO NOT STORE SMOKELESS POWDER IN THE COMMON AREA WITH SOLVENTS, FLAMMABLE GASES OR FLAMMABLE MATERIALS.
STORE ONLY IN DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORT APPROVED CONTAINERS.
Do not transfer powder from an approved container to an unapproved one.
DO NOT SMOKE IN AREAS WHERE POWDER IS STORED OR USED. Post appropriate “No Smoking” signs in these areas.
DO NOT PLACE THE STORAGE CABINETS IN A CONTAINMENT. STORAGE CABINETS SHOULD BE CONSTRUCTED OF INSULATING MATERIALS AND WITH WEAK WALL SEAMS OR JOINTS TO PROVIDE EASY MEANS OF SELF-VENTILATION.
DO NOT STORE OLD OR MINING POWDERS. Check old powders regularly for expiration. Destroy damaged powder immediately.
FOLLOW ALL REGULATIONS REGARDING QUANTITIES AND STORAGE METHODS. Don’t keep all your powders in one place. If possible, maintain separate storage locations. Many small containers are safer than one or more large containers.
KEEP YOUR STORAGE AND USE AREA CLEAN. Clean up spilled powder immediately. Make sure the area is free of garbage or other easily combustible materials
————————————————– ———————-
10-3 SMOKELESS PROPELLANTS. 10-3.1 Quantities of smokeless fuels not exceeding 25 lb (11.3 kg) may be shipped in a US Department of Transportation approved shipping container in a private vehicle.
10-3.2 Quantities of smokeless propellants exceeding 11.3 kg (25 lb) but not exceeding 22.7 kg (50 lb) carried in a private vehicle must be contained in a portable magazine with wooden walls no less than 1 in be transported. (25.4 mm) nominal thickness.
10-3.3 Carriage of more than 50 lb (22.7 kg) of smokeless propellants in a private vehicle is prohibited.
10-3.4 Commercial shipments of smokeless propellants in quantities not exceeding 100 lb. (45.4 kg) are classified as combustible solids for transportation when packaged in accordance with the U.S. Department of Transportation hazardous materials regulations. (Title 49, Code of Federal Regulations, Park 173.197a) and must be transported accordingly.
10-3.5 Commercial shipments of smokeless propellants that exceed 45.4 kg (100 lb) or are not packaged in accordance with the regulations referenced in 10-3.4 must be shipped in accordance with U.S. Department of Transportation Class B propellant explosives regulations.
10-3.6 Smokeless fuels must be stored in shipping containers as required by the US Department of Transportation’s hazardous materials regulations.
10-3.7 Smokeless propellants intended for personal use in quantities not exceeding 9.1 kg (20 lb) may be stored in residences in original containers. Quantities greater than 20 lb (9.1 kg) but not more than 50 lb (22.7 kg) may be stored in apartments if stored in a wooden box or cabinet with walls or at least 1-inc. (25.4 mm) nominal thickness.
10-3.8 No more than 20 lb (9.1 kg) of smokeless propellants in containers with a maximum capacity of 1 lb (0.45 kg) may be displayed in commercial establishments.
10-3.9 Commercial stocks of smokeless fuels should be stored as follows:
(a) Quantities exceeding 9.1 kg (20 lb) but not exceeding 45.4 kg (100 lb) must be stored in portable wooden crates with a minimum wall thickness of 25.4 mm (1 inch).
(b) Quantities exceeding 100 lb (45.4 kg) but not exceeding 800 lb (363 kg) must be stored in non-portable storage cabinets with a minimum wall thickness of 1 inch (25.4 mm). No more than 181 kg (400 lb) may be stored in a cabinet and cabinets must be separated by a minimum distance of 7.63 m (25 ft) or a fire barrier with a fire rating of at least 1 hour.
(c) Quantities exceeding 800 lb (363 kg) but not exceeding 5,000 lb (2268 kg) may be stored in a building if the following requirements are met:
The warehouse or storage room must not be accessible to unauthorized persons. Smokeless propellant must be stored in non-portable storage cabinets with at least 1 inch wooden walls. (25.4 mm) thick and with shelves spaced no more than 0.92 m (3 ft) between shelves. No more than 181 kg (400 lb) may be stored in a cabinet. Cabinets must be placed against the walls of the storeroom or warehouse with a minimum of 12.2 m (40 feet) between cabinets. The distance between cabinets can be reduced to 6.1 m (250 ft) if barriers twice the height of the cabinets are placed on the wall midway between each cabinet. The barricades must extend outward at least 3 m (10 ft), be securely fastened to the wall, and be constructed of 1/4-inc. (6.4 mm) Boiler Plate, 2 in. (51 mm) thick wood, brick or concrete block. Smokeless fuel must be separated from materials classified by the U.S. Department of Transportation as combustible liquids, combustible solids, and oxidizing materials by a distance of 25 feet (7.63 mm) or by a firewall with a fire resistance rating of at least 1 hour. The building must be protected by an automatic sprinkler system installed in accordance with NFPA 13, Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems.
(d) Smokeless propellants not stored in accordance with (a), (b) and (c) above shall be stored in a Type 4 magazine constructed and arranged in accordance with Chapter 6.
Reprinted with permission from NFPA495-85, Standard for the Manufacture, Transportation, Storage and Use of Explosive Materials, (c) 1985, National Fire Protection Association, Quincy, MA 02269. This reprint is not the complete and official NFPA position on the referenced Theme represented by the standard in its entirety.
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The longevity of gunpowder and other explosive materials?
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Justin Pasternak
Joined: September 17, 2006
Posts: 174
Location: West Springfield, Massachusetts. Joined: September 17, 2006. Posted: Monday February 19, 2007 12:01 AM. Post subject: The Longevity of Gunpowder and Other Explosive Materials?
Does gunpowder become unstable over a period of years?
I actually have a gun that belonged to my grandfather, it’s a WWII M1 carbine (1943 I believe) and it still has a magazine full of ammo.
If I fired the M1 carbine, could one of the bullets explode and cause serious injury or even death? I was just curious to know how long gunpowder and similar materials last, does it become unstable after a certain amount of time? Does gunpowder become unstable over a period of years? I actually have a gun that belonged to my grandfather, it’s a WW2 M1 carbine (1943 I believe) and it still has a magazine full of ammo. If I fired the M1 carbine, could one of the bullets explode and cause serious injury or even death?
Last edited by Justin Pasternak on Monday February 19, 2007 10:14 am; edited a total of 1 time
Daniel Staberg
Joined: April 30, 2005
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Location: Gothenburg/Sweden Joined: Apr 30, 2005 Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:20 AM Post subject: Re: The longevity of gunpowder and other explosive materials Justin Pasternak wrote: I just wanted to know how long gunpowder lasts and similar materials, will it become unstable after a certain period of time?
Does gunpowder become unstable over a period of years?
I actually have a gun that belonged to my grandfather, it’s a WWII M1 carbine (1943 I believe) and it still has a magazine full of ammo.
If I fired the M1 carbine, could the bullets explode and cause serious injury or even death?
Well the powder in each round always burns explosively when fired, that’s not a problem, the guns are designed to handle that. The problem with older ammunition is that the powder becomes unstable and burns less efficiently, which can result in a bullet getting stuck in the barrel, which is dangerous. Much would depend on the quality of the cartridges and how they were stored. In 1991-1992, while I was serving in the Swedish Army, all use of manufactured WW2 ammunition was discontinued as weapon stocks were progressively degraded, by then we had used up the large ammunition reserves from the war as cheap training ammunition. However, this was more due to the fact that the ballistics of the projectiles had become degraded and unpredictable than to any real danger.
Thomas Watts
Joined: September 19, 2006
Reading list: 7 books
Posts: 159
Location: Metrowest BostonJoined: Sep 19, 2006 Posted: Monday February 19, 2007 2:29 AM Post subject: I think it depends on storage conditions.
I know that some US ammunition made during WWII is still used for multiple calibers (e.g. .50 cal). And cases of 19th-century cannon shells that are still “alive” …
Exposure to moisture destroyed the gunpowder and shells aboard the C.S.S. Alabama during the American Civil War to the point that it fought the U.S.S. Kearsarge.
It also makes a difference whether you’re asking about black powder guns (“real” gunpowder) or the more modern material (“smokeless” gunpowder) since the chemistry – and therefore potential degradation conditions – are different. Have 11 swords, 2 daggers, half a dozen tomahawks and 2 jeeps – seem to be a magnet for more of everything.
E.B. erickson
industry professional
Joined: August 23, 2003
Posts: 455
Location: ThailandJoined: Aug 23, 2003 Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:16 Post subject: I think it mostly depends on how much moisture got into the powder. Tightly closed, black powder can also be used for years. Here is an illustration – about 15 years ago I was repairing a broken barrel trunnion on a flat rifle from about 1840. I had removed the barrel, clamped it in a vise and used an oxy-fuel machine to weld the trunnion. The shutter got pretty hot and suddenly KERBLAM!! This gun was loaded, and the heat of welding set off the powder. The soft lead bullet hit the cast-iron base of my drill press and shattered all over the shop. I was really glad that I hadn’t stood in front of the muzzle.
So the moral of this story: gunpowder can still be good after a long time. From then on, whenever I had to work on an antique gun barrel, I’d make sure it was loaded!
– ElJay
Michael Ahrens
Joined: Oct 27, 2006
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Location: Staten Island & Andes NYJoined: October 27, 2006 Posted: Monday February 19, 2007 7:12 AM Post subject: Check the Justin headstamp
If you’re really interested in firing the M1 carbine, you’ll get a crate of new ammo. The rounds that are in the magazine may be fine. To answer the question of how old the ammo is, remove a cartridge from the magazine and look at the bottom of the case. Most military ammunition has a date stamp. I can tell you that I have fired thousands of surplus WW2 and WW1 cartridges.
and before with little problem as long as the storage was good. The only major problem with old ammo is the explosive primers. If they are not properly cleaned, the barrel will begin to corrode. hope that helps.
Mike Mike Ahrens
http://www.selohaar.org/
Staten Island German Martial Arts (S.I.G.M.A.)
http://www.sigmanewyork.webs.com/
Member of the 1st Universal Church of St. John Cantius Garand, Reformed (Gas Port) Mike AhrensStaten Island German Martial Arts (S.I.G.M.A.)Member of the 1st Universal Church of St. John Cantius Garand, Reformed (Gas Port)
Jean Thibodeau
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Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada Joined: Mar 15, 2004 Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:07 AM Post subject: Re: Check the headstamp Michael Ahrens wrote: Justin
If you’re really interested in firing the M1 carbine, you’ll get a crate of new ammo. The rounds that are in the magazine may be fine. To answer the question of how old the ammo is, remove a cartridge from the magazine and look at the bottom of the case. Most military ammunition has a date stamp. I can tell you that I have fired thousands of surplus WW2 and WW1 cartridges.
and before with little problem as long as the storage was good. The only major problem with old ammo is the explosive primers. If they are not properly cleaned, the barrel will begin to corrode. hope that helps.
mike
If the cartridges have been “stored” in the magazine for years, the magazine spring can become very weak and lead to malfunctions. Also, I wouldn’t just leave ammo lying around in a magazine as it makes a silly accident more likely.
If you only have one magazine and it’s normally loaded, “someone” could forget to unload the magazine while you’re handling the gun. (Yes, it sounds silly, but accidents happen when people handle guns without thinking, e.g.
General Rule: Always treat a gun as if it were loaded and always know where it is pointed. Every time you pick up a battery that you think is dead, visually and haptically check that it is actually dead, even if you put it down for just a second.
99.9% of the time you’ll be right that it’s discharged, but the 0.1% that you realize it was actually loaded will make you sweat in cold sweats about what would have happened if you pulled the trigger pressed without thinking.
Justin: Don’t take the above personally as I have NO idea how familiar you are with firearm handling so this is just general advice just in case as even “experts” can have an accidental discharge when carried through too much familiarity, becoming careless and breaking basic safety rules.
Oh, and old ammo can be good for decades just with an increase in misfire rates as others have said.
Finally, you can also think of that old ammo as a keepsake from your grandfather, and old ammo can also be a collector’s item to some extent. If you want to practice, just buy new ammo. If the cartridges have been “stored” in the magazine for years, the magazine spring can become very weak and lead to malfunctions. Also, I wouldn’t just leave ammo lying around in a magazine as it makes a silly accident more likely. If you only have one magazine and it’s normally loaded, “someone” might forget to unload the magazine when you’re handling the gun. (Yes, it sounds silly, but accidents happen when people handle guns without thinking, z likes it when it’s loaded and always knows where to point. Check every time you hold a battery in your hand pick up what you assume is discharged, visually and haptically whether it is actually discharged, even if you put it down for just a second that 0.1% where you realize it has actually been charged, you break out in cold sweats about what would have happened if you pulled the trigger without thinking, an accidental discharge, if too much familiarity makes you careless and breaks basic safety rules Oh, and old ammo can be good for decades, just with one Increasing misfire rates as others have said Finally, you can also think of that old ammo as a souvenir from your grandfather and old ammo can also be a Sa to some extent be a gem. If you want to practice, just buy new ammo. You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
Justin Pasternak
Joined: September 17, 2006
Posts: 174
Location: West Springfield, Massachusetts. Joined: September 17, 2006. Posted: Monday February 19, 2007 10:12 am. Post subject: Thanks everyone for your input on this topic!
And to tell you the truth, I’ve never fired a real gun (whether it’s a muzzle-loading or breech-loading type of gun) before. The next thing I actually fired off is a powerful BB gun. But I treated the BB gun like it was a real gun!!!
I know very little about firearms and have a few more questions.
1) What kind of ammo can I substitute the original ammo for the M1 carbine ammo?
2) What steps are taken to clean and maintain a firearm to keep it working properly?
Last edited by Justin Pasternak on Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:48 PM; edited a total of 1 time
Jean Thibodeau
Joined: March 15, 2004
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Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada Joined: Mar 15, 2004 Posted: Monday February 19, 2007 10:54 AM Post subject: Justin Pasternak wrote: Thanks everyone for your input on this topic!
And to tell you the truth, I’ve never fired a real gun (whether it’s a muzzle-loading or breech-loading type of gun) before. The last thing I actually fired is a powerful BB gun. But I treated the BB gun like it was a real gun!!!
I know very little about firearms and have a few more questions.
1) What kind of ammo can I substitute the original ammo for the M1 carbine ammo?
2) What steps are taken to clean and maintain a firearm to keep it working properly?
M1 carbine ammunition is still being manufactured and the biggest difference might be the use of softpoint or hollowpoint ammunition for small game hunting. Military style fully jacketed ammo is best for reliable feeding (no posts) and will likely cost a little less than hunting ammo. Surplus genuine military ammo may or may not be easy to come by, but should be the cheapest.
You can clean a rifle decently without taking it apart to any degree, but it’s usually best to strip it down to its major components. (That doesn’t mean tearing everything apart down to the last screw or spring, though: that’s a job for an armorer or gunsmith.)
A cleaning kit available at most gun stores would include a cleaning wand that would hold wire brushes and a cleaning patch holder to push/pull and clean the barrel. Small brushes like an old toothbrush can be used to scrub the accessible areas with powder solvents, and small drops of gun oil to lubricate moving parts can be applied with a cotton swab.
There are old military manuals that show field stripping instructions for the M1 carbine as well as other military rifles and it might be helpful to find one as these manuals contain most of the basic maintenance instructions that will be needed.
It might be a good idea to have the M1 checked out by a good gunsmith if it hasn’t been used for decades and they could clean it completely if it got really dirty and make sure it’s safe to shoot.
It would be a good idea to find a good rifle club to shoot at and get basic shooting and safety instruction, or at least have someone show you how to do it safely. (I assume someone is actually a competent and responsible safe user and not just a friend bragging about knowing EVERYTHING about guns.)
Oh, and if you live in a rural area where target practice is legal, choose a spot where your ball will hit the side of a sandy bank or very high backstop, and if you get a shot in a Giving up angles of 45°, remember that the bullet can travel a mile or more and will end up somewhere.
I hope this is of some help as your local laws and available resources affect what you can legally and safely do.
And target shooting can be a lot of fun. M1 carbine ammunition is still being manufactured and the biggest difference might be the use of softpoint or hollowpoint ammunition for small game hunting. Military style fully jacketed ammo is best for reliable feeding (no posts) and will likely cost a little less than hunting ammo. Surplus genuine military ammo may or may not be easy to come by, but should be the cheapest. You can give a rifle a decent cleaning without taking it apart to any degree, but it’s usually best to strip it down to its major components. (However, this doesn’t mean taking everything apart down to the last screw or spring: that’s only up to a gunsmith or gunsmith.) A cleaning kit available at most gun shops would include a cleaning stick that would hold wire brushes and a cleaning patch holder for Pushing / pulling and cleaning the barrel. Small brushes like an old toothbrush can be used to scrub the accessible areas with powder solvents and small drops of gun oil to lubricate moving parts can be applied with a cotton swab for carbine as well as for other military rifles and finding one might be helpful as these manuals most basic maintenance instructions included could do a full cleaning if it got really dirty and make sure it’s safe to shoot. It would be a good idea to find a good rifle club to shoot at and get basic shooting and safety instruction, or at least have someone show you how to do it safely. (I assume someone is actually a competent and responsible safe user and not just a friend bragging about knowing EVERYTHING about guns.) Oh, and if you live in a rural area where it’s legal, To do target practice, choose a spot where your bullet will slam into the side of a sandy bank or very high backstop, and if you fire a shot at 45°, remember that the bullet will travel a mile or more can and will end up somewhere. I hope this is of some help as your local laws and available resources affect what you can legally and safely do. And target shooting can be a lot of fun. You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
Lin Robinson
Joined: June 15, 2006
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Location: NCJoined: Jun 15, 2006 Posted: Monday February 19, 2007 7:21 PM Post subject: Your question has been answered in quite some detail, but I would like to add one more thing. Ammunition from WWII (and later) is ignited with mercury fulminate which is very corrosive (as mentioned on another poster). Firing vintage WWII ammunition in your carbine requires additional cleaning with hot water or G.I. Barrel cleaner (using both is a good idea) to prevent further corrosion on the barrel and gas system. If, as you say, you are a newbie when it comes to firearms, this might be something you need help with. It is best to use the modern ammunition after having the weapon checked by a competent blacksmith.
In terms of powder degradation, modern smokeless powders are chemical compounds. They will spoil over the years if not stored properly. Even if stored properly, they will eventually break, but it takes a while. Loaded Milsurp cartridges with sealed primers and cases can last 50 years or more, but reliability is questionable with such aged ammunition, which is why the military regularly rotates ammunition stocks.
Black powder is a mixture of sulphur, saltpeter and charcoal. Since there is no chemical bonding of the components, black powder has an extremely long service life when stored properly. Even if it doesn’t, it can be quite volatile after very long periods. A Union gunboat being lifted out of the Mississippi River during the 100th anniversary of the Civil War. Powder supplies were then brought to the surface from the boat. Once dry, it was just as explosive as it was 100 years ago when the ship sank. In our latitudes, especially along the coast, duds from the war are occasionally found. It is then necessary to arrange for a bomb disposal from one of the military bases to deal with it. One exploded a few years ago when an amateur relic collector tried to drill into it. Caused a bit of chaos. Lin Robinson
“The best thing in life is to destroy your enemies, to see them driven before you and to hear their wives wailing.” Conan the Barbarian, 1982
Smokeless Powders, Storage, and Measuring
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