Knocking In Cricket Bat Service? Top 73 Best Answers

The term ‘knock-in’ is something you might be familiar with if you’ve been in the cricket scene for a while, but what does it actually mean? Most cricket bats are made from a soft, fibrous wood such as willow, which has the perfect qualities to perform well in a cricket environment, but first it needs to be treated properly with the batting process to give it the best start in life.

Hitting a bat compresses and entangles the willow fibers together, making them stronger and able to withstand the hard impact of a cricket ball at play. Batting a cricket bat is essential to improve performance and prolong its life.

How to hit a cricket bat

The first step in batting your new cricket bat is to purchase a bat specifically designed for the task. If a hammer isn’t available when you need to hammer in your bat, a used cricket ball in a sock will work, but it’s not as easy to use or gives as a consistent finish.

You should start by hitting the face of the cricket bat (the front flat part) lightly and increase the intensity of the hits to get harder over time. To assess when the face of the cricket bat is ready, make sure the bat no longer leaves a mark when you hit it.

When you’re done smashing in the bat’s face, you can move on to the next step, which focuses on the sides of the cricket bat.

To hit the edges of the cricket bat efficiently, try hitting the bat in a way that mimics the hits it would receive during an inning. Strike the edges of the cricket bat by positioning the bat at a 45 degree angle. This makes the edges of the cricket bat compact and rounded.

Make sure you DO NOT hit the edges of the cricket bat directly or the tip of the cricket bat directly. Also, do not hit the splice of the bat or the back of the cricket bat; Try to limit the impact to where the cricket ball would actually hit the bat in a game scenario.

Choosing a cricket bat is not as easy as it might seem. Finally, this racquet will be your trusted partner when you hit the crease. If you want to get back to the pavilion with runs to your name, you need a racquet you can trust. Start researching great brands like Kookaburra, New Balance, Gray Nicolls, and Gunn and Moore. After that, it’s a good idea to try out a few racquets and see which one feels right for you. Once you’ve found the perfect racquet, it’s important to keep it in great condition. The first thing you have to do is smash your racquet. It might be a lengthy process, but smashing your racquet is the first step to being feared by bowlers everywhere. Here’s what you need to do.

Why hit the bat?

Tapping your racquet is the process of preparing the grains and fibers in the wood. It helps strengthen and compress these fibers to prepare your racquet for you. If you don’t hit it thoroughly and patiently, your club is more likely to break and dent when faced with a fastball.

How to tap your racquet: oiling, extratecting and tapping:

Oil

Oiling is an essential part of the tapping process. It reduces the likelihood of splits and dents by maintaining moisture levels in the racquet. Use a rag to apply linseed oil to all exposed wood parts of the blade. After coating the racquet, let it dry horizontally for 24 hours. This process should be done at least 3 times.

Beat

Here comes the dangerous part. In the past, a ball in a sock was used to hit the bat. But as you can imagine, it shoots out in all directions, causing your thumbs and shins to be smashed in like the bat. Thankfully, specially designed bat and ball bats are now available from cricket specialists. The four areas that require attention during the tapping process are the face, each edge, and the toe. Most of the time should be spent on the edges and toe. Start by “pushing” with the hammer, not tapping. Squeeze the hammer lightly at first and gradually build up the pressure. Pay the most attention to the edges of the bat’s face. After a few hours you can start throwing the hammer off the edges. This should start to “round” the edges. The rounder they are, the stronger they are. Repeat the same process on the toe. Once you’ve pushed the club in for some time, you can start tapping, focusing on the same areas. Remember that at the end of the process you should be hitting the club fairly hard with your club, as hard as a forward drive from a Brett Lee steamer. Patting is a laborious process that can take up to 16 hours. You don’t want to put in all that time and effort and then realize you did something wrong. Some of the best cricket shops even offer full bat preparation. You’ll save yourself a lot of time and effort, not to mention the confidence you’ll have when you go to the fold.

Extract

About 90% of new bat owners extract their bats. Extratec is a transparent, self-adhesive protective cover for your racquet. It keeps moisture in and gives your pasture an extra layer of protection.

Testing

Once your racquet has been smashed, take it to the nets for a few knockdowns with an old ball. If the racquet seems to withstand the pressure, build up the ball’s pace and hardness until you are confident you can use it to face an opening bowler. The entire process can take up to two weeks, but a bat is a significant investment and will last for at least several seasons.

Slamming your racquet is a vital process. Visit a cricket specialty store for advice or full bat preparation.

Cricket Bat Advice

At the Greg Chappell Cricket Center we know that buying a new cricket bat can be an exciting but sometimes daunting task. That’s why we’re happy to help you choose and prepare your new cricket bat!

We designed the Greg Chappell Cricket Center SELECT-A-BAT to take the guesswork out of choosing your new cricket bat. By answering a few simple questions, our SELECT-A-BAT model will help you compile a list of potential new bats. If you require further expert advice and assistance in choosing your new racquet, please call us on 1800 469 928 or email us at [email protected]. Our cricket experts are here to help!

For information and assistance with the preparation process, please read below.

PREPARATION

DO IT YOURSELF PREPARATION INSTRUCTIONS – NATURAL bats

Thank you for purchasing your new bat from Cricket Center! We know you’d love to use it, but there are a few crucial prep stages you need to complete before you start scoring runs!

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Each club must be either oiled and/or fitted with Extratec (if not already done). Toe protection is also a must! We generally recommend completing these tasks before using the game.

Oiling – Use only raw linseed oil. Oil maintains bat moisture levels and helps improve protection. Use a cloth and a dime of oil to apply. Apply oil lightly to face, edges, toes and blade avoiding the splice and all labels. Generally 3-4 initial coats are sufficient, and then 1 coat every 8-12 weeks (assuming your racquet is natural). Each layer needs to dry in a horizontal position for about 24 hours before the next layer.

Extratec – A highly recommended protective film covering the batting area of ​​the bat used by over 90% of all cricketers. It is by far the best racquet protection and does not detract from performance. Extratec also helps maintain moisture levels in bats, but we still recommend lightly oiling the exposed wood about every 12 weeks.

Toe Protection – For racquets that do not already have a toe protection, warranty requirements require you to do so to help your racquet’s longevity and greatly reduce the chance of toe damage. Toe goo or hard toe is the recommended form of protection.

The ideal prep – Apply 2 light coats of oil to the face and edges of the bat and one coat to the back. Once dry, perform any knock ins with a hammer while the bat still has a natural face. Apply Extratec & Toe Protection after drying. Continue to lightly oil the exposed wood about every 12 weeks.

PHASE 1 – THE TAPPING IN THE STEP – MALLET

Knocking-in is the process of compressing and strengthening the willow to prepare it for use as a match. If tapping is not done correctly, there is a high chance that your racquet will be damaged and warranties may be voided. Knock-in is vital in all English Willow Bats and must be done with patience and care. No racket is ready-to-use off the shelf. Pressing the racket will start the process and reduce the overall time of the process. The best tool to complete knock-in is the bat/ball hammer. To do this takes up to 16 hours of tapping throughout the procedure, depending on club choice and thoroughness. Some bats may require more/less work depending on pasture and care taken at knock-in. There are 4 areas that need to be prepared when knocking in: face, toes and every edge. The focus should always be on the edges & the toe! Start gently with Knock In and build up as you progress! Remember that it is very important to hit the racquet hard towards the end of this process in preparation for use in the match.

Face – This area extends from below the splice to about 10cm from the bottom of the racquet. Strike straight at the face, starting with the leftmost grain. Work this grain up and down several times, gradually increasing the power. Once you’ve reached reasonable power, move on to the next grain, working your way down the beater until you’ve covered the entire face.

Edges – These must be done approximately 15cm from the shoulders to the bottom of the racquet.

Face the hammer at a slight angle from the edges (never hit the edge). Here you want to recreate the grazing motion of an “edge” in a game. This will gradually round the edge.

Toes – Follow the same procedure as for the face but cover the bottom 10cm. Really focus on the bottom 1-2cm and on the edges as these are the areas most vulnerable. Again, start gently and increase strength as you progress.

Remember to start gently and increase the strength as you progress. If you put more time/effort into the knock-in, the racquet will last longer and perform better! For a demonstration of the above, please search ‘cricket bat preparation’ on our GCCricketcentre YouTube channel. You are now ready to hit balls and play with your racquet.

GCCC does not recommend that clubs be broken in or broken in by machine. Machines can often damage the bats and put pressure on the shoulders, causing cracking and damage.

PHASE 2 – THE PLAYING IN STAGE – NET SESSIONS

The ingest begins after the mallet process is complete. When you think you’ve completed Stage 1, bring your racquet to the nets with an old leather ball. Start with soft throwdowns and defensive hits. Inspect your racquet after each swing to ensure there are no visible dents/seams. Hit the ball softly at first and harder as you progress. If markings appear, you must stop using them immediately as Phase 1 has not been completed correctly. Repeat phase 1 of knocking in with the power-building racquet and later attempt another net session. If no marks/dents are visible, gradually increase the power of ball speed and impact power. Keep checking for bumps/marks. This process can be lengthy, involving multiple network sessions and trial/error. At the end of this process, you should be hitting the ball firmly and facing a fast bowler with no indentations on the club. If so, your racquet should be match ready!

CRICKET BAT GUARANTEE AND THINGS TO CONSIDER:

A cricket bat will not look new forever and cracks will appear.

Bats are made from a natural material and have the incredibly difficult task of repeatedly hitting a solid cricket ball.

Cracks can occur during the knocking-in process and do not necessarily resemble an error/defect

Cracking can be an indication of insufficient beating, improper preparation/use, soft pasture, etc

A small amount of cracking is normal and does not affect the performance of the racquet. These can usually be ground down and have appeared on bats for centuries

The lifespan of a bat depends on the amount of use and care it receives.

Additional protection such as Extratec & Toe Protection is highly recommended for longer life

Some bats may require more/less preparation than originally recommended. Knock-in time is a general guide and does not mean your racquet will be ready past the hours. For example, if your knock-in isn’t up to standards, you could be spending over 30 hours on your racquet and it still might not be ready.

The price of a bat does not reflect the potential longevity of the willow. In fact, the more expensive bats are made of softer willow wood and while they outperform cheaper bats, they may not last as long.

BAT GUARANTEE PROCESS

GCCC needs to see your racquet to agree on the proper course of action following a warranty claim. There is currently no standard remedy for a claim. Each claim will depend on the circumstances and will be assessed on a case-by-case basis. A course of action may include repair, replacement, refund, or re-performing the service. GCCC handles every return of a racquet purchased either in our stores or online. We will always consider your claim in accordance with Australian Consumer Law. All cricket bats sold by GCCC are guaranteed for 12 months against damage deemed to be a manufacturing defect and through no fault of the consumer. Most claims cannot be resolved immediately.

THE WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER:

York damage to the bat’s toe

Damage caused by missing wrapping/playing in, mechanical wrapping or inaccurate importing.

GCCC does not recommend that bats be machine tapped/played in. Machines often don’t complete the process properly or damage the bats and put pressure on the shoulders, causing damage.

Damage caused by machine-prepared clubs (not played in naturally)

Damage caused by poor preparation/maintenance (e.g. missing toe protection, over/under oiling, etc.)

Damage caused by moisture (wetness) or heat (do not leave in the trunk/direct sunlight etc.)

Damage caused by non-leather or composite balls (including bowling machine balls)

Improper use (including hitting anything other than cricket balls – e.g. stumps)

The cricket bat guarantee may be void if the above guidelines are not followed. Racquets with broken grips, cracks and other minor occurrences within the warranty policy will be returned to the manufacturer for repair. It takes an average of 10-14 business days to assess/fix the incident in cooperation with the manufacturer. When asserting a warranty claim, the customer must provide GCCC with proof of purchase (receipt/account statement). Visit www.cricketcentre.com.au for more information on warranties and repairs

SIZE CHART

WEIGHTS

SWEET SPOT POSITION

PROFILES

PREPARED & NATURAL

Use a hardwood mallet with a rounded face. Hold the racquet in one hand and hit one edge of the racquet with your dominant hand with enough force to make an impression.

Keep hitting the edge of the club with the same force. Make sure the edge is level so there are no areas higher or lower.

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Repeat the process on the other long side of your racquet. Make sure the angle of each edge of the club is the same. Hold the club so that the short end of the clubface or the toe is at eye level. Check both edges of the club to make sure they are even and rounded.

A comprehensive guide to cricket bats and knocking in

Please note that our “Knocking In Service” can take up to 14 days at busy times of the year.

General cricket bat information

Most cricket bats are made from English willow, Salix Caerulea or Alba Var, which is naturally a soft, fibrous wood that possesses the perfect qualities, namely balance, strength and durability, to perform in a cricket environment. The qualities of English willow are improved during production by drying and pressing the wood.

All cricket bats will wear out with use, that’s entirely natural, and with collision speeds in excess of 100mph it’s easy to see why. The normal wear and tear that can be expected from a cricket bat face is surface cracking on the face and edges, and discoloration of the face, and these instances will not affect the performance of the bat. On the other hand, damage can result from misuse, improperly timed shots, improper storage, lack of maintenance, use against underperforming cricket balls, and use in wet conditions. If damage occurs to the bat, it should be referred immediately for assessment.

To ensure you get the most out of your new cricket bat, it is important that it is properly prepared (battered) and cared for. After the racquet has been hit, it is imperative that you take care of your racquet as follows:

Store at a moderate constant temperature.

Try to avoid wet conditions.

Try to avoid using it against cheap, inferior balls.

Try not to ride Yorkers.

Do not over oil the racquet.

Try to avoid excessive mistimed shots.

We strongly recommend that bats are booked for work at the end of the season. This can include all levels of repair, oiling, re-gripping, toe guard application, anti-chafing film application and has been proven to help extend the life of your racquet.

Choosing the right cricket bat for you will help further increase your love for this great game. We strongly recommend that you contact us before purchasing any racquet to discuss your exact requirements and to guide our expert advice to a successful purchase.

Willow Rating

This information has been compiled to give you some insight into cricket bat pasture grading and why some bats cost more than others. All racquets have different characteristics from balance and pick up to width of the grain. As a rule of thumb, the softer wicker (with narrower grain) has excellent performance characteristics but a shorter lifespan, while the harder wicker (with wider grain) tends to last longer but will take time before you achieve optimal performance. All racquets are performance rated and made from a natural material so grain may vary.

Very Best Grade 1+ Willow – This is the best willow money can buy. The blade is unbleached and typically has 8-12 flawless, straight grains for the most part. The price of one of these clubs would be over £350 for a full size blade and over £150 for a junior blade.

Grade 1 Willow – High quality unbleached English willow. As above, but with a slightly wider grain and a slight red edge in places. The price of one of these clubs would range from £250 to £300 for a full size blade and £120 to £150 for a junior blade.

Grade 2 Willow – Unbleached English Willow with some minor blemishes, red wood on the edge and a slightly uneven grain. The price of one of these clubs would range from £200 to £250 for a full size blade and £100 to £120 for a junior blade.

Grade 3 Willow – Some of these bats are English willow bleached to hide more irregular grain and blemishes. The price of one of these racquets would range from £150 to £200 for a full size reed and £75 to £100 for a junior reed.

Class 4 Willow – This is bleached English willow, often covered with a protective coating and sold as “unoiled”. The price of one of these clubs ranges from £100-150 for a full size blade and £50-75 for a junior blade.

Cashmere Willow – Found in cricket sets and junior bats under £45. Cashmere willow is naturally harder and drier than English willow, so it doesn’t perform as well and doesn’t last as long. This racquet is ideal as a starter racquet for use against a softer safety ball (Incrediballs, Wonderballs, Windballs etc.)

Knocking In (free for selected Talent Cricket bats)

Cracking your cricket bat is an essential part of its preparation. Even if you bought a “pre-knock-in” racquet, another knock is always required. Below is a step-by-step guide on tapping.

Apply raw flaxseed oil evenly to the bat’s face, edges and back, 2 to 3 teaspoons of oil is the right amount. When oiling, be careful not to oil the splice (where the handle fits into the blade), the handle or marked areas, and also be careful not to over-oil the club as this will kill the fibers of the wood and would affect performance. Allow the racquet to dry horizontally and face up for 24 hours. If you plan to use the racquet in its natural state without the chafing backing, repeat steps 1 and 2 two more times. If you are planning to have a protective anti-scuff film applied, an initial coat of oil will suffice. Wipe off excess oil and pound your racquet in with a special racquet hammer for about 4 hours. The edges and tip of the blade require special attention with grazing hits from the face to harden and round these areas. Special care should be taken not to hit the edges, toe or spine of the racquet directly as damage will result. Impact should be done with gradually increasing force, but never too hard to cause damage. Fiber tape is applied to the edges of the racquet and an anti-chafing protective sheet is applied over it if required. We strongly recommend this procedure. Test the blade with a good old ball during a light net session or throw downs. If seams and indentations appear, further hammering is required. Get out and enjoy your new racket!

* KNOCKING ON SERVICE IS FREE FOR SELECTED TALENT CRICKET bats!

bat weights

You will find on our website that all of our cricket bats (with the exception of junior bats) are listed as light, medium and heavy. At Talent Cricket, we attach more importance to balance and take up the characteristics of a bat more than the “dead weight” of the cricket bat. As a guide, a light bat weighs between 2lb 6oz and 2lb 9oz, a medium bat weighs 2lb 9oz to 2lb 11oz, and a heavy bat weighs between 2lb 11oz and 3lb. If a specific tare weight is required please enter this in the “Additional Notes” section at the bottom of the online order form or contact us to discuss your exact requirements.

When someone buys a new cricket bat, there is a desire to get on the field and use it as soon as possible. However, it is important to understand that hitting a racquet ensures that the racquet is fully primed before touching the ball to avoid damage.

Your racquet may need to be smashed in and if this is the case, please read on.

Why do you need cricket bats smashed in?

When a new cricket mallet is delivered, the wood is practically in its soft, natural state. Tucking in a bat simply helps compress and knit together the fibers of the willow. The result is a much tougher piece of wood that is much more durable and resistant to damage during use.

Some racquets come “prepared” but still need to be batted in before being used on the nets or in a game situation. Others have no preparation at all and therefore require the full “knock-in” process. Your retailer page should make it clear if there has been any preparation, so if in doubt please contact customer service.

Cricket bats are traditionally made from willow wood, which is soft and fibrous. It offers the perfect weight and balance for in-game use, but its soft nature means it can be susceptible to damage if not handled properly. In this article, I’ll show you how you can make sure your new racquet is ready to play.

oils and care

Oiling is the first step in preparing cricket bats. This keeps moisture in the fibers and helps prevent splitting and tearing. Traditionally, raw linseed oil is used for oiling.

It’s important not to apply too much oil, so a first light coat should be applied with a cloth to the face, edges and toes (Note: If you’re new to the specific parts of the cricket bat, be sure to read first through our guide). Avoid the splice and all stickers. Leave to dry in a horizontal position for 24 hours and then wipe off any oil that has not been absorbed. Gently rub the racquet at this point with very light sandpaper before applying another fine coat of oil.

Note: If you wish to apply new decals to your racquet, do so after the tapping process!

Storage is also important in these early stages and avoiding humid conditions is imperative.

How do I break in my cricket bat?

With oil applied, it’s time to pat your racquet in. A bat hammer is a useful tool in this regard, but using an old cricket ball is also perfectly fine. The club should then be hit with the mallet or an old ball, lightly at first before gradually increasing the power.

It’s important to cover all areas where the racquet is likely to make contact with the ball, so start with the face of the racquet. Start with a light tap, then gradually increase the force. Hit the racquet hard but not too aggressively.

Proceed to the edges of the club but do not use excessive force here as the wood can be most brittle here. Finally, continue with the toe of the bat and repeat the process. Don’t hit the back of the racket.

How do I know when my club hit?

After this opening phase, the user can easily hit short balls in the face either in the nets or in the outside area. If there are seam marks, they should repeat the above steps.

If the racquet has no markings, the racquet should be sufficiently impacted.

How long should you batter a cricket bat?

The tapping process should take about six hours. This doesn’t have to be done in one sitting, but the quicker the better to prepare for game situations.

Can you bang a cricket bat too much?

It’s difficult to hit a racquet too hard, but it’s not theoretically impossible. Excessive hitting with a hammer or leather ball could cause the fibers to compress too much and they could lose their natural spring.

However, it would take many hours to reach this point.

Play in your racket

Beating is the first step in this process, but a new racquet is not quite finished. The next phase is called play-in and this is where the racquet reflects a game scenario. It’s perfectly fine to hit the nets and face regular bowlers, but a softer cricket ball should be used. One of the many training balls used by cricketers is perfect for this scenario.

The hitter should avoid serious tempo at this point, but seam bowlers and spin bowlers are perfect for the task. Play defensively first and note if the seam left marks on the racquet surface.

In the case of seam marks, it is necessary to go back to the beginning and start the tucking process from the beginning. If there are no markers, the hitter can start playing more expansive and offensive play. If no seam marks are visible on the racquet after several minutes of deliveries, the racquet should now be ready for use. It is now acceptable to put it in your pocket and take it to the game.

in summary

Bats are vital pieces of gear and can be the most expensive item in a player’s bag. Because of this, they must be treated with great care and the tapping process is simply vital.

Inadequate preparation can cause irreparable damage to the racquet, so it is imperative that the procedure is followed to ensure this vital piece of equipment is in optimum condition when it enters the field of play.

A cricket bat, no matter how carefully it is used, will eventually wear out depending on how it has been used and cared for. In this article we will tell you how long a cricket bat usually lasts and how you can make it last longer.

How long does a cricket bat last?

Bats can last for several years if only used for a specific purpose. Roughly speaking, a cricket bat will last around 1000-1500 runs, including practice. A racquet will last three or four seasons, or even just one, depending on how the player uses it and how well they take care of it afterwards.

Ideally, the lifespan of a cricket bat depends on the individual player. It also depends on how you have cared for the racquet. For example, more practice at the net reduces the lifespan of the racquet. Usually there are racquets reserved only for tryouts and players use a different racquet while practicing in the nets. Everyone has their own choice of comfort and uses it accordingly.

Can a cricket bat become dead?

Yes, a cricket bat can go dead, as bats are primarily damaged during training. The bats can occasionally break; usually when the edge makes a quick shot or the racquet hits the ball and the ground at the same time, taking away the bottom of the racquet. After that, the racquet will feel “dead” upon contact with a ball and can no longer be used for batting purposes.

How can I extend the life of my cricket bat?

In order to prolong the life of a bat you need to take care of the bat with proper care and here are some of the pointers that will help you in this task.

Watch your batting temperament

You have to be very careful how you handle the racket. Don’t throw it around, especially after a bad inning. Keep it in a bat case instead of lying on an unfamiliar surface that could easily spoil the bat’s believability.

Oil and pat your racquet in

Remember to oil and pat your racquet in from time to time. This helps open up the racquet’s grains for better shots and keeps the racquet as good as new. Oiling has always helped prolong bat life.

Don’t bash the stumps

A common mistake made by most cricketers. Do not hit the stumps with your mallet face as this could seriously damage the sweet spot and the area where you play your shots. It could cause the racket to break and cracks to fuse.

Avoid playing in heavy rain

Playing in heavy rain can ruin your racquet as the water pouring down is not the best situation for the wood. It will be soaked by the water and the racquet will be destroyed in every way. So, it’s best to avoid this.

Protect your blade

Protecting your racquet’s blade is one of the key factors in extending its life. Place the face of your racquet securely in a protective cover to prevent scratches and damage to the racquet. You can use toe guards, bands, etc. to keep the blade safe and sound so you can use it during practice sessions and games.

Store your racquet properly

Store the bat properly when not playing cricket and during the season as any kind of unfamiliar weather conditions or anything in the environment can damage the bat. Too much sun, monsoon water, insects, etc. can damage your bat, and don’t forget that bats are thrown here and there by people unfamiliar with bat handling.

Don’t hit the ground too hard

Typically, many players tap the floor as part of their routine and have adapted this play style. However, repeated use of this action can damage the bottom of your racquet, so it is recommended not to hit the ground too hard.

Don’t borrow your racquet

Teammates may not be as careful with the racquet as you are. They might have their way of handling and playing with a bat. Not having one of their own, they might not think twice before playing hasty shots that can damage the racquet. So think carefully about who borrows your racket.

When should I replace my cricket bat?

This is a tricky question. Normal wear and tear that can be expected from a cricket bat face is surface cracking on the face and edges, and discoloration of the blade. However, if you find the racquet is performing poorly and it feels ‘dead’, your best option is to check it out or replace it, depending on the problem.

Usually you need to replace your cricket bat when the piece of wood comes right out and the bat breaks as it no longer feels like it. Normal damage can be treated, but if a bat breaks, a new cricket bat will take its place.

Conclusion

It also doesn’t matter if two identical clubs are used by different players. It can take different amounts of time depending on how each of them takes care of them. So take good care of your racquet to prolong its life and use it longer.

England did not win the 2019 Cricket World Cup by outscoring but by outnumbering New Zealand on the border count. Although the rules for winning the Super Over were later changed, one thing is clear: the concept of boundaries remains the key cricketainment factor even in the game’s shorter formats.

How to ensure that the ball will travel the expected distance after impact? One of the most important drivers is the speed generated when the racquet is hit. In other words, the speed at which you swing your racquet plays an important role in generating the necessary thrust to loft the ball for a four or six. Once you’ve perfected the art of grasping and middleplaying the ball, racquet speed becomes a key differentiator of how far you can hit the ball.

From a physics perspective, here are some ways to increase bat speed.

1. Having a high standing backlift:

A high backlift during the hitting stance can generate increased angular acceleration during impact with the ball. Stance Backlift allows for a downswing arc, giving your hitting arm ample time to generate the required racquet speed. You can also use your wrist along with your arm positions to do more back lifts. Players like Yuvraj Singh and AB de Villiers use high backlight levels to achieve their full power-hitting impact.

2. Playing with a backswing:

Backswing (commonly used under the umbrella term “backlift”) is the backward movement of the racquet when the ball is released from the bowler. Backswing can be used as a supplement or complement to a Stand Backlift. Allowing for a few twists of your wrist, the backswing and subsequent downswing can be performed as one continuous action (loops). When used effectively, the backswing can provide greater downswing acceleration than the stand backlift because the club is already in motion. Players like Ben Stokes and Steve Smith use the backswing to give their shots a good advantage.

Batsman using a backswing while playing a shot | Image Courtesy: PDPics/Pixabay

3. Align body:

The swing arc can also be increased by moving your body toward the ball. Strengthening your forearms can allow for a faster swing of the racquet. To increase the arc of the racquet, you can also move your front foot and bring your front shoulder forward to get more top hand control to play the shot. Opening the foot and rotating the body along the direction of the shot also allows for increased circular rotation of the racquet. Players like Hardik Pandya and Glen Maxwell use the body arc to increase racquet speed while using the power shots.

Batsman comes forward to play a power shot | Image Courtesy: PDPics/Pixabay

4. Racquet Weight Optimization:

While heavier racquets allow for more power on the shot, this can slightly reduce the potential speed that can be generated during the downswing. On the contrary, very light racquets may not carry enough energy and momentum like a heavier racquet and therefore may not help you hit the ball past the limit line. Since swing length is directly correlated to arm movement, using the correct racquet weight that makes no difference in swing speed would greatly improve shot effectiveness. Players like David Warner (~1.24 kg), MS Dhoni (~1.27 kg), Virender Sehwag (~1.35 kg), and Chris Gayle (~1.36 kg) have all played with heavier racquets.

Measure bat speed:

Unlike bowling speeds, the speed of the bat played by the batsman is still unclear, even in international cricket matches. As distance hitting becomes an essential feature of the game, measuring club speed becomes critical to the analysis-improvement cycle. Spektacom’s PowerBat sticker (PowerSticker) has intelligent sensors that allow you to measure the speed of the racket in real time at the moment of impact with the ball. This data can help you adjust shot technique for different bowling conditions and against different types of bowlers.

Many of us rely on motorized transportation to get us to work, shopping, entertainment and sporting events almost anywhere we want to go. So if you hear engine knocking noise, it’s time to listen and get it fixed, or maybe go anywhere.

Many things can cause the engine to knock or knock. Common causes include: carbon deposits in the combustion chambers or on cylinder walls, tappets or connecting rods, out of sync combustion timing, overheated engine, back pressure from the exhaust, vacuum leaks, octane rating or quality of fuel, spark plugs or knock sensors failure.

If you ignore the knocking, it will not go away and could result in engine damage. In this article, we discuss the causes and remedies for engine knocking. When you’re done reading, you’ll have a better understanding of the causes, how to fix them, and whether it’s safe to drive your vehicle with engine knock.

What is engine knock?

Engines have many moving parts that create the cacophony of noise we normally hear when listening to a car engine. If you start hearing unusual noises, it’s time to sit down and listen. The faint knocking that increases or decreases with pressure on the accelerator pedal may be a stuck valve or tappet.

Harder knocking noises often indicate that the ignition timing is off, especially if you notice a drop in performance. A rattle when the car starts, followed by a harder knocking sound, will help identify what is shifting the ignition timing. Rattles that appear to be coming from under the engine will require more time to repair.

Recognizing or distinguishing between crankshaft or detonation knock or piston ring noise is beyond the knowledge of most drivers. Good customer service should be able to help.

Engines that knock or ping indicate other problems. An increasing knock ending in a bang, followed by a metallic grinding or screeching means costly engine repairs. Engine knock combined with the check engine light activating is a good indication that you need to do some work or take your vehicle to a workshop.

Causes of engine knocking

A simplified explanation of how an engine works will help in understanding what might be knocking under the hood. A four-stroke car engine is a complex dance of parts working together as each piston undergoes four movements. When you turn the key or operate the starter, the energy stored in the battery powers the starter motor, which turns the crankshaft. The zigzag crankshaft is located at the bottom of the engine and is exposed to the oil pan for lubrication.

With each revolution of the crankshaft, the main bearings, connecting rod bearings, connecting rods, pistons, end bushes, cylinders and rings are lubricated with oil. The rotation is responsible for intake, compression, combustion and exhaust – a combustion in four movements or a power cycle ratio of 1:4. As the crankshaft orchestrates the movement of the pistons, it also rotates the intake and exhaust camshafts or shafts.

The camshaft controls when the intake or exhaust valves are open or closed. It moves the valve stem either directly or with the help of valve lifters connected to adjustable pushrods and a rocker arm. Each valve stem goes through a coil spring that closes or resets the valve when the cam or rocker arm is not forcing it open. There is an oil seal on each valve stem to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber. All moving parts are lubricated with oil from the sump reservoir.

Some engines have one set of intake and exhaust valves per cylinder; others have two sentences. The greater the number of moving parts, the higher the RPM, the greater the potential for knocking noise and engine damage. As soon as the pistons fire to keep the crankshaft turning, the starter shifts back down and the alternator charges the battery for the next time it is needed.

1. Low octane or poor quality fuel

Using gasoline with a lower octane rating than recommended for the vehicle may cause the fuel-air mixture to explode prematurely and produce knocking. The result is a ringing or engine knock. Different types of fuel are assigned numbers and names based on their octane rating.

The higher the octane number, the more refined the fuel and the higher the percentage of octane. It has a more controlled detonation, making it less likely to ignite prematurely. Manufacturers refer to octane ratings by name and number – Regular or Bronze has 87% octane, Extra or Silver has 89% and Supreme, Premium or Gold has 91% to 93%. Octane 85 is also commonly available in higher elevation areas.

2. Incorrect or defective spark plugs

Spark plugs create the “spark” in the combustion chamber and ignite the fuel-air mixture for the engine’s power stroke. Faulty or incorrect connectors, or the wrong spacing or gap can cause engine knock. Spark plugs have different heat tolerances and can cause premature detonation, also known as detonation knock. If the gap is too narrow, the spark will be too weak to ignite the mixture, and too large a gap may not spark at all.

The current pulse that is sent to the spark plug to ignite the fuel-air mixture is computer controlled on modern vehicles. On older cars it is activated by the distributor cap. Faulty or incorrect spark plugs can lead to poor ignition timing in the combustion chamber, which also causes knocking.

3. Bad knock sensor

Modern vehicles rely on microcomputers and sensors to keep the engine running smoothly. The engine control unit (ECU) monitors the fuel injectors, fuel-air mixture and timing. When knocking occurs, the knock sensor relays the information to the ECU and automatically fixes the problem. However, if the knock sensor is faulty, you may hear a knock.

4. Lean air/fuel mixture

Combustion occurs when a spark ignites the compressed air-fuel mixture. If there is too much oxygen, the fuel-air mixture will be lean. That means there isn’t enough fuel in the mixture to burn quickly, resulting in multiple detonations and a knocking sound. Otherwise the piston and cylinder walls will be damaged.

The most common causes are related to engine components that regulate or control air and fuel flow. Make sure the oxygen and mass airflow sensors are working properly, and check that the injectors and pump are working.

5. Worn bearings

For every hour that a vehicle runs at 1500 rpm, it rotates approximately 90,000 times. So if you commute to work an hour each way, five days a week, that’s 900,000 revs — touch the pedal to happen and jump to 3000-5000 rpm or more, and that weekly number multiplies . A motor can easily complete 50 million revolutions over the course of a year, which can lead to bearing wear.

The main bearings between the crankshaft and the engine block and the connecting rod bearings between the connecting rod and the crankshaft complete millions of revolutions. Over time, the bearings wear out and can result in a rattling or knocking noise deep inside the engine. If this is not checked, the connecting rods can be damaged.

6. Engine timing belt or chain problems

The timing chain or timing belt connects the crankshaft and camshaft and synchronizes the movement of the pistons with the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves. If the timing is off, the spark may not appear when it should, resulting in multiple explosions that cause engine knock.

Older vehicles have a distributor cap that is also linked to the timing to ensure the electrical impulse goes to the spark plug to ignite the air-fuel mixture at the right time. Modern engine control instead uses computer controls to determine when the spark will occur during the piston compression cycle of the air-fuel mixture. Combustion timing turning off could be due to a computer malfunction on modern vehicles, rather than a mechanical issue on older cars.

7. Cylinder head is insufficiently lubricated

The cylinder head may make a knocking noise if not adequately lubricated. This often occurs when the oil is old or there is a leak resulting in insufficient oil in the reservoir pan. This can be caused by using generic oils with a lower flash point, which means they vaporize due to the high temperatures on the upper cylinder walls.

Many manufacturers recommend synthetic oil to keep the cylinder head lubricated. Insufficient lubrication can also lead to damage to the piston rings and a shellac-like finish to the cylinder walls. The result can be reduced compression, performance, and efficiency.

8. Low oil pressure

Low oil pressure is another cause of engine knock. Oil lubricates and conducts heat away from moving parts such as the camshaft, cams, tappets, valve stems and rocker arms. The whip or the space between the parts is soaked with oil to lubricate and fill the whip or cavities. If the gap dimensions become too large due to wear or low oil pressure, the components will rattle or knock.

The knocking noise can be more noticeable on cold starts, before the oil has had a chance to fully circulate to all the gaps within the engine. Low oil pressure also affects modern engines that use hydraulic tappets to minimize backlash and therefore knock. High engine temperatures can cause inferior or inferior oils to dilute and interfere with proper oil pressure development.

Using the engine oil recommended by the manufacturer should produce the correct oil pressure unless there is a leak somewhere in the oil system. Check the spark plugs for white ash and look for oil on the floor under the engine or around the gaskets to see if there is an oil leak. If the exhaust is bluish-black, it is likely burning oil in the combustion chambers.

9. Valve lifter failure

Defective valve lifters will produce a rapid knocking noise whether the engine is cold or hot. The valve lifters (also known as hydraulic lifters or hydraulic rod adjusters) ensure that all valve clearances in the engine remain at zero. They are located at the end of each rocker arm or push arm, opposite the valve stem they support.

A faulty tappet can become stuck and cause a clicking, ticking, or knocking sound to be heard over the engine noise. The sound and duration often indicate how bad the problem is. Brief knocking when starting is often caused by dirty oil. If the noise does not stop, the poppet valve will damage the engine.

10. Carbon deposits

Carbon-based fuels like gasoline and diesel can still produce carbon deposits, even with carbon cleaning additives or detergents. The carbon can accumulate on spark plugs, valves, pistons, and the combustion chamber and walls of the cylinder. The design decreases chamber volume, increases compression, and decreases firing and power stroke efficiency.

The carbon deposits can also create hotspots that can ignite the air-fuel mixture before ignition by the spark plug. The double shots in the chamber are slightly out of sync, creating a shock wave as the piston reaches the top of its stroke. The result is a knock or ping or a rattle that sounds like a can of marbles. If the hotspot detonation occurs after the spark plug has ignited the mixture, the results are the same.

The knock sensor on modern vehicles detects engine knock and relays the information to the engine control unit (ECU). The ECU adjusts the timing for the additional ignition by the carbon. The adjustment protects the engine from major damage. Unfortunately, efficiency and performance are reduced.

Other possible causes

Here are some other components that can cause an under hood knocking noise.

High compression ratio

A high compression ratio can create higher combustion chamber temperatures, causing the fuel-air mixture to detonate before the spark plug can ignite it. The ensuing explosion is out of sync and creates a knocking sound.

Engine overheating

An overheated engine is often the result of a problem in the cooling system, e.g. B. a coolant leak or a defective water pump. The hot engine can cause pre-ignition, which produces a knocking noise when the air-fuel mixture explodes prematurely due to the high temperatures.

Low engine speed

Engine knock at low engine speeds of 20 to 30 miles per hour is often spark knock caused by low octane or stale fuel.

pulleys and tensioners

Pulleys can become damaged and produce clicking or knocking noises. Worn or loose belts can flap, knock, or rattle. The tensioners are often spring loaded and apply pressure to a section of a belt to keep it taut. A loose or broken tensioner can also rattle or knock.

How to fix engine knock

Engine knocking is a sound only a mechanic likes to hear. Most of us will have trouble determining whether the noise is rod knock, valve lifter cock, rocker arm, or spark knock. However, there are some steps car owners can take to fix engine noise before it causes any major damage.

1. Change oil and filter

The first step is an oil change. Oil lubricates all moving parts in the engine and helps dissipate heat and remove metal chips and other debris. The oil filter removes most of the particulates, but sludge accumulates and can be recycled into engine parts.

Old, dirty oil can cause parts to stick, and unsuitable oil can be thinned by engine heat, creating a sticky sheen on cylinder walls and damaging other parts. Replace the oil and filter with manufacturer-recommended oil and filter every 5,000 to 8,000 miles. The old standard was every 3,000 miles or every 3 or 6 months. Some push that to every 10,000 miles, but that can be a stretch.

2. Use high octane fuel

Fuel type can affect engine wear and performance. While low octane fuel can be easy on the wallet, engine performance and efficiency can suffer. It could also be more expensive to repair an engine failure. If you experience engine knock, make sure you are using the fuel type recommended by the manufacturer. You could also add an octane booster to improve octane and hopefully kill the knock.

3. Add fuel cleaner

Most automotive fuel contains some detergent to prevent carbon from building up on the cylinder walls and spark plug electrodes. Carbon buildup can cause hotspots and premature fuel-air detonation and knocking noise. Supplemental fuel cleaner can help remove carbon and eliminate engine knock.

4. Clean the combustion chamber

The accumulation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber decreases volume and increases compression. The accumulation disrupts the combustion process, lowering firing efficiency and reducing the power cycle. There are several combustion chamber cleaning products and procedures that you can perform. Watch some videos online and read and follow the product instructions. Alternatively, you can have this done by a mechanic you trust.

5. Check or replace the spark plugs

Spark plugs are designed for different temperatures and the gap between the electrodes must be just right. An improper spark plug can cause premature knocking and create spark knock due to its heat tolerance. If the spark plug gap is too narrow or too far, there will be no spark at all. Carbon deposits can coat the electrodes and narrow the gap. Check and clean the spark plugs and ensure the vehicle is using the recommended spark plugs and that the gap is set correctly.

6. Reduce inlet charge density/temperature

Cool air is denser and expands to a larger volume when heated, providing more oxygen for the fuel-air combustion mixture. A lower air intake temperature allows for a higher density engine intake charge, which improves combustion while reducing burn duration. Make sure the air intake is clear of dirt and away from hot engine areas such as the exhaust manifold.

7. Increase engine speed

Short, slow trips around town do not allow the engine to heat up and can lead to carbon deposits. Low RPM knocking can be caused by low octane fuel or stale fuel left in the engine for a long time. Make sure you are using the recommended grade of fuel and drive on the freeway for about an hour to clean the pipes.

8. Replace knock sensor

If you hear engine knocking, this could be due to a faulty knock sensor. The sensor isn’t in an easily accessible location, and most people don’t have the equipment to verify that it’s working properly. Take your car to a workshop you trust and have it checked and replaced if necessary.

9. Make mixture richer or leaner

A richer mixture contains more fuel in the air-fuel mixture, while a lean mixture contains less fuel. The perfect mix burns all the fuel in the chamber leaving no oxygen behind. A rich mixture reduces knocking by lowering compression temperature and reducing the incidence of premature detonation.

The air gets thinner at higher altitudes. Due to the thinner air, a larger volume is required to burn a similar amount of fuel in the air-fuel mixture. A leaner mixture provides more complete combustion in the combustion chamber and less likelihood of detonation knock.

Can you drive a car with a knocking engine?

The first time you hear your engine knocking, you should act. The longer you wait, the greater the potential for damage to pistons, connecting rods, bearings, bushings, rings and other things. The worst that can happen is a hole in the engine block that requires a completely new engine.

Valve and tappet knocking can only affect the performance and efficiency of your ride for a while. Adding an extra quart of oil every now and then can delay the need for a repair by days or even years. However, it’s best to fix a knocking engine before heading out.

Conclusion

There are many reasons why an engine can make a knocking noise, and all of them can cause damage. Changing the oil and spark plugs, using a higher fuel octane rating, or cleaning the engine can fix the noise. However, if the noise persists, it’s time for you to knock on your mechanic’s door.

6. Detonation Knock: Too low octane rating

First we need to know what detonation knock is. When your engine is running smoothly, the air-fuel mixture combusts in each cylinder in a single, controlled detonation. Detonation knock is a knocking sound you hear when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders explodes in more than one place at a time. Parts of the air-fuel mixture can ignite too early. When these mini fireballs collide, they make a knocking sound.

If your car has a performance-tuned engine designed to run on high-octane fuel, you may experience engine knocking if you fill with low-octane fuel. High octane fuels burn more evenly and are more anti-knock. So if you regularly fill up your car with unleaded fuel that requires premium fuel, this could be the source of your knocking noise. Be sure to consult your owner’s manual to find out what octane rating is right for your car.

For both parts and labor, repairing a knocking engine can cost an average of $2,000 to $3,000. If the damage is greater, you may also have to pay for additional parts replacement. Don’t put off this repair, as the damage will only increase (and the cost will increase).

The cost of repairing a knocking engine rod depends on a few factors:

How long the engine knocks

How big the damage is

If the engine can be saved

If it is a high power engine

You may have experience servicing cars, but repairing a knocking engine is best left to the professionals.

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