How Long Do Climbing Shoes Last? Top Answer Update

Climbing shoes take the brunt of abrasion on the wall, whether it’s climbing or bouldering. While the prices of new climbing shoes have come down over the years, especially as new players have entered the market, you’re still likely to burn through more than a pair a year if you climb consistently.

Extending the life of climbing shoes starts with good footwork and clean shoes. Keep them out of the sun and ensure they maintain their structural integrity by wearing them correctly and paying attention to the right fit. Consider resoling them before it’s too late – otherwise you’ll have to buy new shoes.

It’s really important that you take care of your climbing or bouldering shoes so that they last longer. Read on for some instructions and tips on how best to care for them.

Maintain climbing shoes

When it comes to caring for climbing shoes, the old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” applies. Once you’ve worn them too far or they’ve gotten too gross, they can be impossible to fix. Fortunately, you can take good care of your shoes and extend their life with these tips:

Practice good footwork:

Many climbers develop a habit of dragging their toes over the cliff or indoor wall while searching for the next hold. While this can sometimes be necessary, it will definitely wear out the toe box of your shoes faster.

In general, the bottom of the shoes, especially in the toe and heel areas, is made of the thickest rubber. Try using these areas instead of thinner areas like the rim, and be aware of what particularly abrasive rock can do to your shoes.

Keep your shoes clean:

When changing between the hall and the climbing garden, it can be helpful to wash off the soles of your shoes. When climbing outside, they can pick up sand and even very small rocks, which will wear down the soles faster. You can wash them with water and a towel and a little mild detergent if needed.

Along with this advice, you should keep your feet clean. Stepping into your shoes with sandy or dirty feet is extra abrasion from the inside out — not to mention the extra smell. For more information on how to clean your shoes, see this post.

Don’t waste your sole on the approach

Only wear them when climbing:

Your shoes probably aren’t comfortable enough to tell, but don’t wear them for the hike in the rocks. If you take a belay break or do a lot of walking, switch to your approach shoes or sandals instead.

The more you wear them, the quicker they wear out. As mentioned above, the most stressed areas of the shoes are reinforced, but some of the areas that get worn down by regular walking are not.

Keep climbing shoes out of the sun:

As with any climbing gear, the sun is not your friend. Obviously some exposure is fine; but never just let them sit in the sun for a few hours and never store them in the sun long-term.

Prolonged exposure to UV rays (blah blah blah scientific answer) causes rubber to degrade and ruin its elasticity. The rubber becomes brittle, similar to normal plastic. Be sure to keep them out of direct sunlight if you leave them in your car (in a bag or in the trunk).

Proper storage:

Just because I said to keep them out of the sun doesn’t mean they should sit in a stuffy bag at the bottom of your closet all the time. There’s a reason your gym bag smells like this. Mold and fungus are serious threats to climbing shoes.

Not only is it absolutely disgusting, but some types of mold will ruin the shoes. Keep them out of the sun but still allow them to breathe instead of leaving them in a cramped, stuffy space. You’ll know if you screw this up!

Wear shoes correctly:

It can be really tedious to put on and take off your climbing shoes between each route or boulder problem. If you take them off, take them off completely. Resist the urge to just slip your toes in and crush your heels. The heel box is a critical part of climbing shoes and you need to keep the structure intact.

Also, don’t walk around with your shoelaces untied. Aside from the obvious tripping hazard, you’ll wear out the laces pretty quickly if you drag them into the rocky ground. Be careful when crack climbing as the toes and edges of your shoes will wear down much faster than normal climbing.

Make sure you have the right fit:

Climbing shoes should be comfortable enough to wear without pain, but just tight enough that you don’t wear them for fun. As you progress, your shoes become tighter and more uncomfortable as the toes become more aggressive.

If they’re too big or too loose, the wear won’t be on the proper reinforced sections (and you won’t get much grip on small grips). I recommend trying on shoes before you buy them, or at least reading lots of reviews first to make sure they fit you the way you want them to.

Resole your climbing shoes before it’s too late:

There’s a sweet spot in resoling your shoes – too early and you’re wasting good rubber (and money), or too late and your shoes may be beyond salvage.

It’s important to catch them before they wear themselves to the brim and most importantly before they cause damage to the interior or leather/synthetic uppers. Read on for more information on resoling climbing shoes.

If your shoes have passed the point of no return, you should probably read my post: How Much Do Climbing Shoes Cost?

This is how you can tell if resoling is necessary

It’s good practice to make it a habit to check your shoes after every climb, especially outdoors where they’re more likely to wear out or snag.

Examine the toe area, especially the edges. Keep an eye on any obvious chunks or worn areas as they will likely wear first. Sometimes you can get a chunk out of a shoe by stepping on a particularly sharp rock. Note any areas where the sole and rim touch and wear affects the rim.

Look all along the rim (top rubber section) for areas that may show some wear. The rim is much more difficult to replace. So once you find yourself wearing the fringe, change up your footwork or have a new sole made to add more rubber. Usually the wear occurs when you go through the rubber at the bottom of the shoe and into the fringe.

The sole detaches from the edge. These should be resoled soon to avoid edge damage.

Once you even start wearing edge, you need to start thinking about resoling. The rim is more difficult and expensive to replace than the sole. The rim isn’t meant for climbing, so the rubber is a bit harder and less grippy.

Another thing to look out for, especially if you haven’t climbed in a while or if you’re picking up a pair of used shoes, is to feel the general condition of the rubber. Rubber oxidizes over time, making it less sticky and harder. You can try roughening them up a bit with sandpaper (or sandstone), but it’s probably best to just resole them.

Resoling of climbing shoes

Many different resole shops have popped up around the world, particularly in climbing locations. Most of the time they are run by a climber or climbers and it’s always good to support local businesses.

The first step is to determine if you need a half sole, full sole, edge repair, or patchwork. That really depends on how worn they are and if you’ve started wearing yourself to the edge. The resolver should be able to help you decide if you’re not sure.

You have to decide between 4mm or 5mm rubber thickness (4mm is standard but you might want 5mm if you want them to take a beating). The cobbler takes off the old sole and sticks on a new one, sanding down the edges for a perfect fit.

If you’re lucky you can find someone nearby to re-sole the shoes and you can save some money on shipping. A regular half sole is around $40 in most places, so shipping can add up. At a certain point, depending on the value of your shoes, they may no longer be worth selling. Shoe prices have come down in recent years, making it easy to buy a new pair.

How long do climbing shoes last?

The answer, of course, is that it depends on how often you use them, whether you mainly climb indoors or outdoors, and how well you take care of them. For a beginner climber who hits the gym once a week and gets outdoors occasionally, shoes can last a few years. If you go outside several times a week, expect a few pairs a year.

You can only resole a shoe 2-3 times before it falls apart. Eventually the rim wears out completely and the synthetic/leather upper falls apart. Kiss her goodbye and put her in a trophy box. Worn out climbing shoes are PERFECT for deep water soloing, so it’s good to have a good pair with you!

related questions

How much does it cost to resole climbing or bouldering shoes? Resoling costs about $40 for half a sole. If you need an edge repair, budget an additional $10-$20 depending on the severity. You can save a lot on shipping costs by shipping multiple pairs at once.

Can I repair my climbing shoes myself? There have been kits available online in the past, but it’s just a difficult thing to do well yourself. Consider apprenticeship to a shoemaker if you really want to learn.

Can you put climbing shoes in the dryer? Do not put your climbing shoes in the dryer. The heat has a similar effect on shoes as the sun – it can make them brittle and cause them to wear out faster. Allow to air dry away from direct sunlight.

See also:

Can I climb without shoes?

How many people die climbing?

Are climbing pants worth it?

There’s a lot of mixed information about when it’s time to resole. Some people think that shoes are ready for resoling when there is a hole in the front. While others might think that resoles are only for performance shoes.

The fact is: rubber doesn’t last forever and all climbing shoes have to be resoled at some point. So if you want to keep climbing long term, knowing when to resole a shoe can help you save money, reduce waste and avoid the tedious process of breaking in new shoes.

Read on to learn everything you need to know about a resole.

WHAT IS A RESOLE?

To find out when it’s time to resole, we first need to know what to look for. A shoe consists of two parts:

The sole covers the entire bottom of the shoe and is designed to wear out through contact with grips, rocks or the wall. While the rim is a thinner piece of rubber that adds structure and protects the upper. It is not designed to take a lot of wear and tear like the sole and can be easily damaged.

Resoling is part of regular climbing shoe care. Worn parts of the rubber sole are replaced. The most common place for rubber to wear is in a small area under the tip of the big toe. As the sole wears, the visible line where the sole is bonded to the rim will recede and appear to “dip”. Sometimes this line can even appear faint.

A rand repair replaces part of the rubber rand covering the toes. Repairs to this part of the shoe can affect the shape, comfort and performance of the shoe and limit the number of resoles. We will discuss this below.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR A REPLACEMENT?

The best time to resole is when the sole recedes so much that you start climbing the edge. Holes are common signs that you’ve climbed onto the rim, and it’s also possible to wear the rim before the sole. This is usually caused by stepping too close to the wall while climbing.

If you want to keep your shoes in the best possible condition, we recommend always resoling at the “ideal time” to avoid damaging the edge.

Here are some examples:

TOO SOON Slight signs of wear and sole in fair condition. It’s probably a bit early, but it doesn’t hurt if you want to resole now.

IDEAL TIME The line between sole and collar dips near the big toe. Edge is intact and feels firm when pressed. Resoling now costs less.

LATE BUT REPAIRABLE The sole has receded and a hole in the rim is worn. Edge repair is possible as the hole has not been worn away by the fabric.

TOO LATE A large hole has worn through to the upper. All repairs depend on the resolver. Most people simply buy a new shoe.

HOW MUCH DOES A RESOLE COST?

The total cost for a resole with shipping can range from $90 to $140. Let’s break down some of the most common costs (click to view):

Your favorite pair could last you a lifetime or less than a season. Knowing when to resole climbing shoes is really important to save money and shoes. Avoid frustration with our simple guide.

A quality pair of climbing shoes can cost as much as $200, but a replacement sole usually costs around $40-$50. If you get a resoling done before it’s too late, you can add another 3 to 9 months of solid usage! It’s also possible to resole multiple times – but how often and how often you use them affects the lifespan of climbing shoes.

What is resoling?

It literally gets a whole new sole on the shoe. The old rubber is either pulled off the sole with pliers or ground off by machine. Then new rubber is cut, glued, pressed and cleaned.

It is needed when the rubber of your climbing shoe has worn down to the point where it becomes very thin or has a tiny hole in it. Resoling a climbing shoe is similar to resoling a regular work shoe or boot, but should only be performed by climbing specialists.

Since we climb mostly with our big toe (or at least we should), this is where the rubber rubs off the most. Climbing shoe rubber is sticky but soft, so it wears down with repeated contact with rocks and textured surfaces. The rubber on the sole at the front tends to go first, followed by the rubber on the rim.

What is a climbing shoe edge?

The rim is a thinner layer of rubber that runs around the front of the toe box and often across the entire top of the toe. It’s not intended to carry most of the weight when climbing, so most of the time it starts to wear out once the front part of the sole has worn through. It also wears out more when climbers drag their toe up the wall for balance.

The edge is above the sole line

In the picture below you can see the most common wear pattern on a climbing shoe. The sole is completely worn around the big toe and the rim underneath has also started to wear out. It’s hard to see at the edge, but it’s definitely wearing.

The sole shows the normal wear pattern on the toes

If this shoe is used a lot more, the inner leather on the front will be exposed. This means no support and can potentially destroy the shape and fit of the shoe. Definitely ready for a resole and probably edge repair.

When to resole climbing shoes

There’s no hard and fast rule as to how long it takes before you should resole a pair of climbing shoes, but the visual guide below should help. Assuming you climb once or twice a week, most shoes will last around 3-9 months before needing a new sole. It’s important to know the signs that you need resoling.

Brand new shoes. The sole is the same thickness from toe to midfoot. Shoes after about 4 months of use. The rubber on the sole is gnarled around the bottom of the sole and around the toe the sole rubber has worn away and exposed the edge. The rim also has signs of wear and is becoming thinner. Resoling and edge repairs may be required. Very well worn shoes on second resoling. Sole rubber totally worn through at the tip. Rim rubber also frayed through and formed a hole. Requires resoling, edge repair, possibly sewing. The interior has changed a lot.

If the rubber on the sole is so worn that you start to wear through the rim as you continue climbing, you should have it repaired. At this point you should only need one resole. If you’ve badly worn the rim rubber, you’ll likely need to repair it at an additional cost (sometimes included in the cost). Knowing when climbing shoes need to be resoled before the edge needs repairing or is completely destroyed can save a lot of time and ruined shoes

Edge repair / new edge / toe cap

These all mean the same thing. The rim is generally a thinner rubber of around 2mm compared to 4-5mm on the sole. When worn – mostly on the front of the big toe – it can be replaced. This costs a little more at around $10 per shoe in addition to a re-sole.

An edge repair is not possible without a new sole, since the edge actually runs under the sole. To remove the rim you need to remove the sole. As a rule, the entire upper edge is not replaced, only the front wedge. This wedge and the rubber under the sole are ground down, then a new piece is clamped and fitted around the toe.

You can see the wedge shape where the rim has been replaced on the popular pair below. They are once again worn down to the core and need another reissue or have to be retired. They also re-taped the edge where it meets the leather.

These shoes already had a rim repair but now need another one

The new sole is glued over the edge and it’s this tension that helps hold the shape of the shoes – particularly downward curved ones. This is partly why resoling climbing shoes is such a special skill. Without understanding exactly how a climbing shoe works, it is impossible to repair and keep the shoe climbable.

Types of Climbing Shoe Resoles – 1/3, Half, Full?

Wear and tear on climbing shoes usually only occurs on the toes and in the first few centimeters of the foot. For this reason, usually only this front part needs to be replaced. When only this part of the shoe is replaced, it is called a 1/3 or half resole (generally half, but referring to the same thing). This is by far the most common type of resol. A full resole is when the entire sole is stripped off and completely replaced.

Some climbing shoe resolers have access to the original manufacturer’s rubber parts. These are perfectly sized, molded and pre-trimmed rubber pieces to the exact shape of the model and the correct size. With access to these, it is easier to simply remove the sole and replace it with an exact fit.

A range of pre-made rubber soles direct from the manufacturer for different shoes and sizes. Image from shoedoctor.eu

Most resolers use sheets of rubber that they cut to the size of the sole by tracing the original. For just half a sole, they sand down the first few inches of the shoe with a special machine. Then the sole is cleaned, the new piece is glued and pressed on with a machine, then the edges are trimmed and brushed to an edge.

A split sole on the left and a continuous sole on the right. The continuous sole gives the shoe rigidity

Shoes can have split or full soles – see above. Split sole really just means there is only one sole at the front. With a split sole, the front piece can be easily removed and replaced with an identical piece or a new piece shape.

With the whole sole, you can also replace the entire sole with a whole spare, but a 1/3 or half sole is more likely to be finished. You can ask for a full resoling, but it might cost more. All of this advice and costs will vary depending on the person/business doing this.

What happens if I don’t get resoled?

Wearing the rubber on the sole or collar all the way to the inner material begins to ruin the integrity of the shoe shape. You buy shoes for the support they give you – specifically for your foot shape. In the first few months after breaking in, shoes will subtly change shape to better fit your foot. Once the shape and fit change, it feels like wearing different shoes.

It is entirely possible to have shoes with major damage repaired, but it takes longer, costs more and is much more likely to change the shape of the shoe. Some resolers will not accept jobs that have more than a small hole in the rim. Take a look below at the incredible work that went into this complete rebuild of a pair of battered Miuras.

La Sportiva Miura conversion

Watch this video on YouTube

How much does a climbing shoe resoling cost?

It depends on the country and the resoler, but generally around $40-50 for a standard resoler per pair. A rim repair costs about $5-10 extra per shoe. This varies a lot around the world, and if you want some high-priced European countries like the UK, shipping to other European countries can cost less than a local repair – even with shipping.

– Find out where to get your climbing shoes resoled in the UK

Other extras besides edge repair are: re-gluing where the rubber separates from the outer material, sewing holes in the toe edge, repairing pull straps, repairing closures (common to La Sportiva Solutions) and. Postage is then added when shipping. Sometimes you can pay a tidy chunk extra to get a rush order and a turnaround time of 1-3 days.

Shoe repairs for a battered pair that you left late and desperately need for next week’s trip to Spain can cost a fortune. Plan ahead and know the signs to stop climbing it.

Is it worth resoling climbing shoes?

With the first resoling it is generally always yes. A decent new pair of shoes costs $120-$180, and a resole with extras might cost $50-$80. If you do it at the right time with a good resole, you’re likely to get a great resole and the same performance, meaning you’ve saved a lot over a new pair.

Waiting times – plan ahead

It’s easy to fall short without a decent pair of shoes. Processing times really vary, with some taking a few days and most taking weeks to months. Around spring and just before the broadcast season (depending on the country, but when cool, dry times arrive) they tend to be rammed.

The perfect time to resole your climbing shoes is when you think you won’t be using them for a while. Finish them off before you have to finish them off. Then you have no choice between waiting or completely destroying a pair.

Some repair shops may have a three month turnaround time where you don’t have your shoes. Some don’t even accept new shoes or reply to messages. Plan ahead, especially if you have a climbing vacation coming up. We recommend having a rotating cast of shoes for different situations and rock. At the very least, it’s good to get a new sole for an old comfy pair that fits and have them with you for emergencies.

Which gum should I use?

The shoes are designed with the rubber in mind. So if you liked the stiffness of your shoes, then buy the same rubber. You can absolutely switch to any brand of rubber on any shoe if you wish. It is generally accepted that stiffer rubber is better for thin edges and softer rubber is better for lubricating and rubbing the treads.

Softer rubbers include Vibram XS Grip 2, Five Ten Stealth Mi6 and So Ill Dark Matter, while stiffer rubbers include Vibram XS Edge and Trax XE. Softer rubber wears out faster, and textured inner walls wear out rubber fairly quickly too.

– Learn more about how long climbing shoes last

– Read more about the best climbing shoe rubbers

Can No-Edge climbing shoes be resoled?

Yes, it is entirely possible to resole no-edge shoes. However, there are a few different methods, and some resolvers won’t work with them.

No-Edge shoes are a recent innovation from La Sportiva, where a specially cut piece of rubber connects all the way from the sole to the tip of the toe. This means there is no hard edge or seam in front of the toes. One benefit of this is that your toes are physically closer to the rock.

No-edge shoe elastic is wrapped around the sole and over the toe in one continuous piece

No-Edge can be re-soled in three ways:-

Best – The complete original sole is removed and an original matching replacement sole from the manufacturer is used.

– The entire original sole is removed and an original matching replacement sole from the manufacturer is used. OK – Using a sheet, the resolers can create a new part to wrap over the top – possibly in two parts. Trying to keep the original no-edge feel.

– Using a sheet of metal, the resolers can create a new piece to wrap over the top – possibly in two parts. Trying to keep the original no-edge feel. No-Edge – Resoling the shoe with an edge, like a standard resoling.

How often can climbing shoes be resoled?

If you’re going to resole way ahead of all the holes that go all the way to the inner webbing – potentially limitless. Even if you regularly resole and don’t let the lining wear out, the shoes will lose some of their shape. Leather, synthetic materials and the other rubber of the shoe wear down with age, sweat and heat.

In general we find that shoes can do with a re-sole or two and maybe a welt repair before they lose too much shape. It depends on the shoe and the person repairing it. Sometimes it’s just not possible to keep the shape of the shoe the way you want it to be – despite clever repairs.

We still recommend keeping shoes that still fit but don’t have the performance you need for the project. With the right care, you can still have a pair of Beater shoes for the gym, a comfortable pair for all-day 5. fun multi-pitches, or a pair to loan to a friend.

Remember that resoles do not eliminate odor. This will only get worse. We have a pretty awesome guide on how to stop climbing shoes from smelling so bad that might help.

A new pair of climbing shoes can last 3-9 months before a new sole is needed. If you resole them regularly and at the right time, they can last for years. Read our full article on how long climbing shoes last.

How tight should my climbing shoes be? Do climbing shoes have to hurt? Will I ever be able to show my feet in public again? The importance of getting the right fit for your climbing shoes cannot be underestimated. Let’s bust some myths, help you find the right fit and style, and talk way too much about feet.

It took a while for climbing shoes to become the tight, performance-oriented slippers they are today. The main advantages of climbing shoes are that the toes are very close to the front of the shoe, the shoe fits so well that there isn’t much movement, and the sticky rubber soles. When worn properly, the shoes should feel snug but not painful.

Looking for the most comfortable climbing shoes?

These are our absolute favorites for comfortable shoes that still climb hard

Beginner – La Sportiva tarantula

Vegan Beginner – Black Diamond Momentum

Good all-rounder – La Sportiva Katana Lace

Trad – Scarpa Maestro

Why are climbing shoes worn so tight?

When you climb, you put a lot of pressure on your toes. If your toes aren’t in the front of the shoe, you don’t have much control or feel. Also, if your climbing shoes aren’t snug enough or have bulging areas (often the heel), the foot can move around the foot and you can slip out of the holds.

When you buy street shoes, the goal is that your toes don’t poke forward and that you have room around your foot. With climbing shoes, all parts of the inside of the shoe should fit snugly on the foot. You shouldn’t go anywhere in climbing shoes.

Tight climbing shoes often get stuck in the wrong places. The main problems with painful climbing shoes are: –

The first technical climbing shoes were made of leather, which stretched a few sizes over time. Previously, climbers had to downsize aggressively to achieve the ideal fit after a few months

overuse. Previously, climbers had to downsize aggressively to achieve the ideal fit after a few months. More modern shoes are either lined, made from synthetic, non-stretchable materials, or have a large amount of rubber. All of this minimizes stretch – so it’s important to get the fit right the first time

Climbing shoes don’t necessarily have to be comfortable – but they don’t have to hurt all the time

– although they shouldn’t be painful all the time. Beginners are not used to the fit. Eventually, your feet and toes become a little desensitized to the shape they’re being forced into

the form into which they are forced. Most importantly – There are hundreds of designs for different foot shapes – not all shoes fit all feet. This causes the most problems

Climbing shoes should be snug enough so that they fit snugly but don’t take 10 minutes to put on

The truth about tight-fitting climbing shoes

If you’re new to rock climbing, consider getting a pair of low-top beginner rock climbing shoes that are snug but fit properly. It’s that simple. The main problem we see is that newer climbers get rotated shoes that don’t fit properly. If you’re not used to the downward curve of more aggressive shoes, you might end up getting them a little big. This leads to loose spots and hot spots in the shoe, leading to discomfort as the shoe is not able to support your foot like it should.

You also need to make sure that the shape of the shoe fits your foot. Find out if you have a wide or narrow foot, if your heel is big or small, and if you have a high or low crotch. Shoes are constructed differently and you should adjust the climbing shoe to the shape of your foot as much as possible.

On the left no shoes and on the right in climbing shoes. You can see that the foot is pinched from the sides and the toes are curled down

If you’re looking beyond your first pair or have been climbing for a while, this still holds true. There’s a huge range of awesome, downturned and aggressive shoes out there. Don’t stick to one brand or one specific shoe (solutions aren’t the only solution) if you want better performance. You might be tempted to buy a shoe that works well but doesn’t feel “right” right away, in hopes that the fit will improve. Not. You will find a shoe that is the right shape for your foot, so shop around and always try them on in the store.

Should toes be curled up in climbing shoes?

Basically yes. Even in beginner’s climbing shoes, your toes are curled in just a little to keep them close to the front edge of the shoes. Your big toe will be rolled down and this is probably the biggest pain point for most.

For beginner shoes, the big toe should be tilted down a maximum of about 45 degrees. If the shoe fits properly, it should support this position pain-free – but then it won’t be completely comfortable.

Without the downturn, your foot will flex a lot when standing on holds. This can end up being more painful as the shoe squeezes your foot. This is generally the problem with rental shoes.

Rental shoes are designed to be flat and will end up being worn and baggy if not worn very snugly. When worn tight, they don’t fit very well and cause pain. Get your own pair as soon as possible. When wearing a good pair of climbing shoes, the toes are essentially curled up.

X-ray of a foot in a climbing shoe. This shows a fairly flat shoe with the toes properly curled. This would be considered semi-aggressive.

Read our full climbing shoe guides for recommendations

– Our complete guide to the best climbing shoes of 2020

– Complete guide to the best climbing shoes for beginners

– Should I wear socks with climbing shoes? no

– Best climbing shoes for sweaty feet

– Best climbing shoes for kids

How should climbing shoes fit?

If you are looking to buy your first pair of climbing shoes or want to replace your first pair that never fitted properly, follow these rules:-

Get Flat, Straight Shoes – No sagging, symmetrical (not twisted inward)

– No falling off, symmetrical (not twisted inwards) Try many pairs in store to make sure they fit your foot shape

to ensure they fit your foot shape. Of the two big brands, Scarpa generally fits a wider foot and taller heel shape, and La Sportiva is narrower

Try low volume shoes/women’s shoes (same) if you have a slimmer foot – don’t worry about gender branding

Adjust them so that they fit snugly on all areas of your foot

Climbing shoes are tight – not painful

Watch your heel

Excessive wrinkling or wrinkling when pressed down is a bad sign

For your intermediate or advanced climbing shoes: –

Try different brands. Butora, Evolv, Unparallel and Tenaya and others make world class shoes

Butora, evolv, Unparallel and Tenaya and others all make world class shoes. Different shoes for different climbs – steep overhangs and cracks will likely require different shoes

– steep overhangs and rip climbs will likely require different shoes. Pay attention to your foot shape and heel size

Know how downcast you can walk in pain

Know how much asymmetry you can tolerate in a shoe

Consider slip-ons or straps for removing between burns

Do climbing shoes stretch?

Basically yes – but it depends on the shoe. Softer, natural materials like leather or suede stretch more than synthetics. When a shoe is lined, it has fabric on the inside that is designed to hold the shoe’s foot. In general, if the shoe has a lot of rubber, it also holds its shape better. Some shoes are equipped with special systems such as La Sportiva’s P3 Permanent Power Platform. These have internal rubber supports that preserve the shoe’s strength and shape.

We generally recommend finding a size that works for you – and then possibly going down a size for longer life. A very soft leather shoe like the Mythos or Anasazi can stretch up to three or four sizes over its lifetime. Something like the katana tip expands a full size. A synthetic shoe stretches at most half a size. Something synthetic with lots of rubber like the Evolv Phantom might not stretch at all.

So what climbing shoe size should I get?

It totally depends on the brand and your foot shape. Go to a good climbing shop with a good range and take your time. Try a few pairs of different shoes and in different sizes. As said, you should first try to get a pair that fits your shoe shape. Start with your normal shoe size and go from there. Should I get smaller? Many brands fit best if the shoe size is smaller than your street size, but that’s not a strict rule.

If you’re ordering online, it’s worth scouring the web to see what others are suggesting. We have sizing tips in our guide to the best climbing shoes of 2020. Results can vary widely as people are used to different levels of comfort. We would still suggest going locally and trying them on. Climbing shops and gyms could really use your support if you can help. It’s always worth asking if they’re priced to match online prices or might hit you halfway on price.

Why are climbing shoes upside down?

Down turn in climbing shoes indicates how much the entire foot curves down in the shoe. You can see below that a lower downswing is more comfortable and a higher downswing is usually seen as higher performance. This isn’t just how crooked your toes are, but how crooked the entire foot is. Having your foot in this position directs more power into your big toe and the inside edge of your foot. It also helps tremendously when snagging your toe on small ledges or into pockets on overhang climbs.

This La Sportiva shoe chart shows the various asymmetries and downward movements across the range. This does not indicate volume

Why are climbing shoes asymmetrical?

Along with downward-turned shoes, an asymmetrical shoe puts more power in the big toe. Asymmetry in climbing shoes means how much your toes are turned in. This asymmetry adds another uncomfortable layer to shoes and standing on level ground with asymmetrical shoes is not comfortable at all.

Which materials are more comfortable?

Materials contribute significantly to the comfort of climbing shoes. In general, leather – especially suede – is more comfortable than a synthetic material because it stretches more when it’s hot. Leather also stretches over time, allowing the shoe to better conform to your unique shoe shape as you wear it. Some shoes have a padded tongue that can provide more comfort.

Bouldering makes rock climbing more accessible to the crowd, but also increases the intensity. Get on the road to a toned back and core with this rope-free climbing workout.

Climbing used to be about getting off the ground as high as possible. It required ropes, harnesses and carabiners, and pauses during the ascent — or even missed holds — were optional. After all, you would only ever hang on your climbing harness for a few minutes before you dared to climb the wall again.

But by dialing things down in the elevation department, bouldering not only makes rock climbing more accessible to the crowd, it takes the intensity of rock climbing to a new level.

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Simply put, bouldering is rock climbing, albeit shorter walls, without the aid of a rope or harness. Most walls top out at around 15 feet, but pros usually push the limits to 50 feet or more — still without ropes. There is a crash pad on the ground, ready to catch climbers if and when they fall.

“For me, bouldering is about being free,” says Paul Robinson, Team CLIF Bar Athlete. “When it comes to bouldering, it’s all about you and the rock.”

Thomas Lohnes/Getty Images

Unprecedented fitness, uncharted territory

According to USA Climbing, bouldering is the fastest growing form of rock climbing and has long been a way for professional climbers to develop the physical strength necessary for their sport.

“Bouldering is the most powerful and gymnastic form of rock climbing there is,” says Robinson. “All the difficulty of a boulder is summed up in a few short movements that separate you from the top of the wall.”

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These movements are not just short. They are fast, powerful and often contorting. They require – and build – extreme strength. Bouldering is a high-intensity exercise that while it strengthens all the major muscles in the body, it also works the back, shoulders, arms and core, says Kate Mullen, owner of The Stronghold Climbing Gym in Los Angeles. Meanwhile, it also sharpens balance, body awareness, and mental strength. In bouldering, routes are even referred to as “problems” that climbers must “solve” in order to get to the top.

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“For me, the first ascent of a boulder is the most incredible feeling. Knowing that no one has ever climbed something makes the experience of figuring it out or climbing it that much more fascinating,” says Robinson. “One of my toughest first ascents I’ve ever done was a 50ft boulder in California that remains one of the toughest boulders in the world, Lucid Dreaming V15. The boulder has most of its difficulty in the first 20 feet of climbing, but the mental challenge and crux is at the top.”

Take off from the ground

Denver Post photo by Cyrus McCrimmon/Getty Images

While the quest for first ascents (to be the first person to climb a certain boulder or to solve a problem) has taken athletes like Robinson all over the world, from southern Africa to Siberia, “first ascents” for newcomers are best done in controlled areas – either when climbing gyms or, when outdoors, with a spotter who has bouldering experience, says Georges Karam, owner of the boulder-only gym Chicago Bouldering Collective.

And start small. On your next hike, look for climbing opportunities. Even the boulders in Central Park are fair game. Because the shorter the boulder, the better. It doesn’t matter if you’re just three feet off the ground on a route, he says. As long as you’re on that rock, you are. You’ll build the strength and skills to up the ante when you’re ready.

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“Keep in mind that bouldering involves risks. Bouldering may seem safer than rock climbing because it doesn’t involve great heights, but every fall is a ‘fall’ and injuries like broken ankles and sprained wrists are not uncommon,” says Mullen. It is possible to discover bouldering problems in your local wilderness areas. However, before you start climbing, you must carefully assess the overall rock strength, the strength of the holds you will be shifting your weight onto, and whether the landing zone has any hazards that could result in injury in a fall.”

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As far as bouldering requirements go, all you need to climb walls is a chalk bag (hands can get sweaty and slippery), a foam crash pad for safety, and climbing shoes if you want, says Karam. Bouldering shoes have small soles and fit snugly to the feet to avoid instability on the rocks, he explains.

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When in doubt about whether your muscle strength qualifies as “gravity-defying,” build a foundation with bodyweight exercises, including pull-ups (start with assisted exercises if necessary), push-ups, and plank variations, says Mullen. And then when you get onto the rocks, you’ll really feel the physical benefits.

How it works If you like to combine your training with adventure and adrenaline, then rock climbing might be the right exercise for you. Whether you’re climbing in a climbing gym or on real rock faces in the great outdoors, you’ll work muscles you never knew you had. And you’ll be surprised how quickly you break a sweat if you move slowly! To be safe, you need to know what you’re doing. So start by taking lessons at a climbing gym.

Intensity Level: High. You can’t really do “climbing easy”. Even relatively easy routes require full body effort and maximum concentration. Super hard routes will push you to your limits!

Areas targeted Core: Yes. Your core gives you the balance and strength you need to keep your body close to the wall. Arms: Yes. Your forearms get a real workout when you climb, and your upper arms and shoulders pull you up when your legs can’t apply enough pushing force. Legs: yes. Proper climbing technique relies primarily on leg strength. Glutes: Yes. Climbing is a full body workout, and you need the strength of your glutes along with your leg muscles to propel yourself up. Back: Yes. Muscles like the rhomboids, trapezius, and lats work with your core to keep you stable on the wall.

Type Flexibility: Yes. You’ll be gripping and stretching a lot from one hold to the next. Aerobic: Yes. Climbing can increase your heart rate to 120 to 180 beats per minute. Power: Yes. Climbing can push your strength to the limit. Sports: Yes. Competitive climbing is growing in popularity, with teams across the country. You can also climb just for fun! Low Impact: Yes. If you do it right, your feet won’t even touch the ground.

What else to know Cost: Expect to pay for time on a climbing wall in a jungle gym and rent equipment. Good for Beginners: Climbing requires a basic level of strength and fitness, so if you’re not active now, it probably isn’t for you. Outside: yes. Most new climbers start out in climbing gyms, but there are plenty of outdoor climbing areas. At home: no. If you find that you have a passion for rock climbing, a portable pull-up bar to hang in your doorway can help build your strength. Required Equipment: Yes. You need at least climbing shoes and a climbing harness, which you can rent in any climbing hall. Climbing gyms usually provide other needed gear, like ropes and carabiners. If you climb outdoors, you must bring your own.

Buying climbing shoes can be an expensive hobby or a decade-long affair. In theory, you could wear the same pair throughout your climbing career. Let’s take a look at what affects the lifespan of climbing shoes and what you can do to extend their lifespan.

How long do climbing shoes last?

On average – assuming you climb once or twice a week – climbing shoes should last around 3-9 months. At this point, the toe cap is usually so worn that resoling and possibly toe welt finishing is required. There are many things that affect this.

But if you get them resoled in time, they’ll be ready to go again! If you keep having a good resole repair the shoes before they wear out, you could potentially wear the same pair for decades. We saw that shoes from the 80s are still actively used.

Classic La Sportivas – Take good care of your shoes and they will last a lifetime

If you run them for too long, they’re likely to develop a hole in the collar and begin to wear down to the inside of the shoe. At this point you can still have them resoled (some resolers don’t repair shoes until a certain point), but it will cost more and you risk losing the shape of the shoe entirely.

Realistically, most shoes can wear a re-sole or two before they need to be replaced, and a repair puts a bit more strain on the shoe so it’s typically only done once in a shoe’s life. The material of the shoes also softens over time and loses its shape. Still, it’s common to have a great pair of older, more comfortable shoes for long days of lighter climbing.

Rubber also delaminates (pulls away from the fabric), but that’s an easy fix. Seams wear out, especially on lower quality shoes. However, if you take good care of your shoes, small repairs can last them a long time, and major repairs can be handled by the better resolers.

So the most important question is actually…

Read the full article to find out when climbing shoes need resoling, what types of resoles are available and everything else you need to know about resoles.

How to make climbing shoes last longer?

Errors in footwork

The more you scratch your shoe, the more it wears down from friction. Climbing shoe rubber is naturally very soft, which is the key to grip. Here are some examples of bad footwork and tips to improve it:-

Repositioning – Plan ahead and put your toe in the right place the first time. Repositioning wastes energy and rubber

– Plan ahead and put your toe in the right place the first time. Repositioning wastes energy and rubber. Toes + Edges Only – It really should be using the big toe and only an inch or two around the edge. Using more makes it feel more stable at first, but moving away from the footrest often means repositioning.

– Really the big toe and only an inch or two around the edge should be used. Using more initially feels more stable, but moving away from kick often means Tap + Slide – Tapping your foot way above a hold and scraping against the wall is real with beginner indoor climbers usual. It might work now, but it’s a terrible exercise as it just won’t be possible outside. It also kills shoes faster than anything else.

– Tapping your foot well over a hold and scraping against the wall is really common for beginners in indoor climbing. It might work now, but it’s a terrible exercise as it just won’t be possible outside. It also kills shoes faster than anything else. No Peeking – Watch where you put your foot. You may be surprised how common it is not even to look at the footsteps.

– Watch where you put your foot. You may be surprised how common it is not even to look at the footsteps. Scratch Up – The most forgivable of footwork sins. Commonly seen as a foot striking a wall. It can help balance during hard moves, but more likely better body positioning makes it unnecessary.

Quality shoes last longer

Simply put, well-built shoes last longer. Cheaper shoes often rely on outer rubber to maintain a shoe’s shape. Complaints with cheaper shoes are that the shape deforms quickly, the stitching isn’t good and in the wrong places – leading to painful rubbing and hot spots.

Higher-quality shoes are characterized by precise seams, high-quality materials and a well-thought-out overall design. Climbing shoes can definitely be expensive, but years of use often pay off.

La Sportiva, Scarpa, Tenaya, Evolv and Unparallel all have a solid reputation for quality shoes, although many others make great rock shoes.

Avoid climbing shoe smell

No socks, strenuous exercise, long summer days, no socks. Learn how to stop climbing shoes from smelling so bad. Those veteran everyday shoes with 7 interchangeable soles probably shouldn’t live in the house.

How long do climbing shoes last on indoor walls?

Most indoor climbing and bouldering walls have textured walls. The paint on the walls contains a fine sand or similar material to improve grip. This attempts to replicate most types of outdoor rock where the porous texture gives you grip. However, some rocks are glassy and terrible for swabs, and there are many gyms that use bare wood with no grip.

This texture means that if you drag your feet (especially the toes) up or down the wall, you’ll wear down the rubber very quickly. Indoors, focus on your footwork. The best indoor climbing shoes also tend to have a softer rubber like XS Grip 2 as this is better suited for overhangs, smearing on textured walls and modern volume-based climbs. Because it’s softer, it wears out faster.

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Softer rubbers like Vibram XS Grip 2 and Stealth Mi6 grip better when smearing or indoor climbing, while stiffer rubbers like Vibram XS Edge and Trax XE tend to work better on tiny edges and on rocks like granite.

Unfortunately, the softer rubbers wear out faster. There are modern rubbers specifically designed for interior walls that will hold the stick without wearing out as quickly. More about the best climbing shoe rubbers.

How long do climbing shoes last on different types of rock?

Different types of rubber on climbing shoes tend to work better on different types of rock. An indoor shoe with very soft rubber that is used a lot on textured material may only last 3 months before needing a new sole. How long climbing shoes last depends heavily on this difference.

It could require several resoles and last a few years. Granite like the material found in Yosemite tends to be smoother and is all about smaller treads. A harder rubber will fit better and might last quite a while.

There are much softer, more porous rocks, the gritstone of northern Britain or the sandstone of Fontainebleau in France. These are usually much more based on friction and lubrication. Softer rubber helps with this, but sliding all day from these textured grips wears through rubber and skin quickly.

If you put your climbing shoes through their paces, chances are the rubber will eventually wear out.

How long it takes for the rubber in your shoes to wear down depends on how much and what you climb, but after a while it will happen to all of us.

The areas that are most under pressure, like the toes, sides and balls of the feet are usually the first places to go.

Over time, dirt and scale will begin to fill the grain of the rubber, reducing friction and making them less effective. There are several ways you can fix this, depending on the age and wear and tear of your shoe.

Here are a few of my favorite methods, check them out and see which ones work for you!

Whether you’ve been climbing for a few days and want to buy your first pair of climbing shoes, or you’re considering buying new shoes, you may have questions about climbing shoes. If you have a question about climbing shoes, it’s probably already been asked and I’ve included an answer for you in the FAQ below.

OVERVIEW/OVERVIEW:

FREQUENT QUESTIONS

BUY NEW SHOES VS. REPAIR YOU ASK

SHOE FIT QUESTIONS

SHOE CARE QUESTIONS

QUESTIONS ABOUT SHOE PARTS

QUESTIONS ABOUT THE CLIMBING SHOE BRAND

Basic questions about climbing shoes

What are climbing shoes?

Climbing shoes are among the most important utensils that climbers use to complete a climbing route. Climbing shoes are specially made shoes that fit snugly around the climber’s toes to help climbers use small footholds or the edges of cliffs/climbing walls for toe hooks and heel hooks. In addition, they are made from a special rubber that is engineered to grip rock faces and indoor climbing walls better than traditional shoe rubber.

Can I climb without climbing shoes?

Although not a requirement, climbing and bouldering without climbing shoes is very difficult and is therefore recommended. Without climbing shoes, you’re limited to entry-level climbs because your street shoes are too big to fit footholds. Most climbing gyms have shoe rentals at a reasonable price if you want to try rock climbing before buying your own pair.

Do you need to buy climbing shoes before you go climbing?

If you enjoy climbing and plan to do it a few times a month, buying climbing shoes is better than renting them or borrowing them from your friends. In addition, you can usually try on a pair of shoes before you buy them to make sure they fit you well and meet your needs. If you are unable to try on the shoes prior to purchase, make sure there is a reasonable return policy so you can try them on properly and return them if necessary.

If you are a first time climber it may be worth renting them or borrowing them from a friend to see if you enjoy climbing. However, if you decide you want to climb more often, you should buy your own shoes. This is because rentals can get expensive over time. If you borrow your friend’s shoes, you’ll wear them down a little every time you use them. Even though you may not pay for the shoes, your friend will pay for each time you use them. Also, if you wear someone else’s shoes, they won’t fit as well as a pair of your own shoes because you can’t break them in like your own pair of shoes.

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This is about climbing without shoes. If you want to know how to wear socks or barefoot with your climbing shoes see the next question.

Most climbing gyms require that you wear some sort of footwear when climbing to protect against the spread of athlete’s foot. Unfortunately, when a climber has athlete’s foot and is climbing, anyone who touches the footholds or handholds afterwards is susceptible to athlete’s foot and even facial athlete’s foot.

Some videos on social media might lead you to believe that barefoot climbing is common for rock climbers. However, climbing shoes provide significant support to allow you to shift your weight to your toes for extended periods of time without fatigue. In addition, climbing shoes are equipped with a rubber that is superior to the grip that sweaty feet can offer. Not to mention the likelihood of cutting your foot on a sharp stone.

Do you wear socks with climbing shoes?

Climbers don’t usually wear socks with climbing shoes. The main argument for this is that the socks can cause your feet to slip or the shoes to not fit. However, this does not apply to all climbers. If you are considering wearing socks with climbing shoes to avoid shoe odor or similar, read this article (Do you wear socks with climbing shoes?)

Buy new climbing shoes

When shoes retire

Climbers typically prefer to have their shoes resoled rather than discarding them entirely. However, if the cost of resoling is more than half the cost of the shoe, it may not be worth getting them resoled. Also, you can only resole a shoe after it has worn out. If your shoes have areas that no longer grip but there are no holes, you may consider having your shoes resoled.

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Here are the three main reasons why you should ditch your shoes:

The sole, heel, or toe is cracked or torn. The sole is detached (when the glue holding the sole to the shoe comes loose).

When to resol shoes

Depending on the value of your climbing shoes, you may consider resoling your climbing shoes rather than retiring them. As a resoling, the sole of your climbing shoes is replaced after they have lost their grip. You can have your shoes resoled as soon as they lose their grip and before they puncture. Depending on the brand and rubber needed, there may be local resole shops near you, or you can ship your shoes there. Before sending your climbing shoes to the store, make sure they service your shoe type and rubber.

Remember that resoling your shoes doesn’t have the same sole quality control as brand new shoes.

How often can you resole your shoes?

Some climbers resole their shoes several times before getting new shoes. It’s okay to resole your shoes multiple times as long as your upper is in good condition. Most climbers prefer to base the number of resoles on the cost of the shoes and the cost of resoling.

A good rule of thumb is that the cost of resoling your shoes should be less than 50% of the cost of your shoes. For example, if your shoes are $100 and you’ve resoled them twice for $20, then you’ve already spent $40 on that pair of shoes and another resole would take you to $60, which is over the 50% mark. In this situation, you should probably buy new shoes.

When to Get a Rand Repair

If your shoe has a toe hole, you can have a rim repair done instead of buying new shoes. This can be valuable when your shoes cost more than half the cost of a rim repair/replacement. Sometimes you can also get new toe caps if the edge is not strong enough for a repair. However, some climbers have reported that new toe caps change the fit of the shoe and aren’t worth the extra cost.

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How often can you repair or replace the rims on your shoes?

Most companies have no policy against constantly replacing the rims on your shoes, so it’s up to you to decide how often to have your rims repaired or replaced. As the rule of thumb for resoling your shoes, the cost you spend on your Rands should be less than 50% of the cost of your shoes. For example, if your shoes are $100 and you already have the rims repaired or replaced for $30, a repair or replacement for $30 more would put you at $60, which is over the 50% mark. If it’s above the 50% mark, then it’s probably better to buy new shoes.

When should you buy new shoes with a more aggressive downswing?

Many novice climbers are given flat-soled shoes, while more advanced climbers are given a more aggressive, downward-angled climbing shoe. Some climbers feel that they need aggressive climbing shoes before they can progress in climbing grades. However, technique can do more for your climbing performance than the shoes you wear.

The aggressive climbing shoes are best suited for short problems (bouldering) on ​​sloping walls. Wearing aggressive climbing shoes when sport climbing can be taxing on the feet and make climbing difficult for long periods of time. If so, you should evaluate the type of climbing you do most often and make your decision based on that.

When you feel confident in your technical ability and your beginner shoes need replacing, it may be time to switch to a more aggressive downturn climbing shoe. Remember that the more aggressive the downward movement of the shoes, the less likely it is that you will be able to stand (let alone walk) while wearing the shoes. If you’re in a bouldering hall and want to go from one via ferrata to the next without taking your shoes off every time, find an aggressive shoe that you can still walk in. Check out my article on best climbing shoes for bouldering recommendations (Best climbing shoes for bouldering)

Should you wear different shoes for indoor and outdoor climbing?

Climbing shoes are designed for indoor and outdoor use, so you don’t usually need different shoes for each type of climbing. Many climbers keep their old climbing shoes for indoor training and only use their beautiful climbing shoes for outdoor climbing. This is mainly because many climbers feel that the indoor climbing gyms are harder on their shoes. This applies if you frequently reposition or twist your foot (switching to a drop knee position, etc.) on the climbing holds.

However, if you practice steady feet and systematically put your shoe on kicks, your climbing shoes will likely last just as long as they did outdoors.

Of course, if you have an extra pair of shoes lying around, you can choose one for indoor climbing and one for outdoor climbing. I would consider which shoes you perform best in and where you want more performance. Some climbers prefer better outdoor performance to limit falls from foot slippage.

What kind of climbing shoes should you get for bouldering?

In general, bouldering shoes are more aggressive than sport climbing shoes because you solve shorter problems that usually focus on technique, compared to sport climbing, which is longer and requires more stamina. Additionally, some climbers choose to use velcro for bouldering so they can be easily put on and taken off between climbs as the climbs are shorter. You can find recommendations for the best shoes for bouldering here (Best Climbing Shoes for Bouldering). Note: It is not La Sportiva Solutions

What kind of climbing shoes should you buy for rock climbing?

Because rock climbing requires wearing shoes for long periods of time, climbers usually wear lace-up shoes, so you don’t have to worry about readjusting the tightness of your shoes. Also, they should be comfortable enough to wear for long periods of time as climbing routes are longer. This is especially important for big wall climbing.

Should you buy Velcro or lace-up climbing shoes?

The type of closure system you should have on your climbing shoes depends on the type of climbing you do. Typically, boulderers wear Velcro shoes because the climbs are short and they need to be able to slip them on and off easily and quickly.

In comparison, climbers usually wear lace-up climbing shoes because you can easily adjust where the shoe is tight and where it’s looser to make it more comfortable while climbing. Also, you don’t have to put them on and take them off as frequently, so tying the laces doesn’t take up much time while climbing.

How much do climbing shoes cost?

Climbing shoes range from $40 to $250. The price differences are usually based on the type of rubber and lining materials included in the shoe. As well as the durability of the shoe and how many climbing sessions you are likely to get out of the climbing shoes. The more expensive the climbing shoes are, the more likely it is that you can have them resoled. Therefore, some climbers recommend buying shoes that fit into the resoling category to get the most out of your purchase.

Why do some climbing shoes cost more than others?

In addition to the brand logo sewn into the climbing shoe, the most common price differentiators are the rubber material used in the sole and the material used in the upper. If you are looking for a higher quality rubber, you will generally pay over $100 for the shoe, regardless of the brand.

In addition, the aggressiveness of the climbing shoe also makes a difference. The process of making shoes with a greater downward angle is more difficult, so more aggressive shoes are more expensive.

Should you buy climbing shoes for growing kids?

Children’s feet are constantly growing and shoes that are too tight can damage growth plates and cause additional damage that needs to be avoided. With this in mind, many parents are wondering whether they should buy climbing shoes for their children. After all, shoes that fit today will likely be too small a month from now, and buying new climbing shoes every month isn’t ideal. Luckily, climbing shoe manufacturers recognize these concerns and have created a way to make adjustable shoes that can ensure your child will fit in the shoes for a few months before they get new shoes. Similar to the lifespan of adult climbing shoes.

In addition, children’s climbing shoes have a stiffer sole throughout the shoe, so the arch of the foot is not forgiving. This allows kids to enjoy the same benefits of climbing shoes like toe hold, extra support and extra sensitivity, no matter what size the shoe is adjusted to. If your child likes to climb and climbs often, then you are probably better off buying shoes for your child than renting climbing shoes from the gym every time. In addition, your own climbing shoes usually boost self-confidence when climbing.

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Should you buy beginner climbing shoes before getting more aggressive shoes?

For the average person I would suggest starting with beginner shoes and then working your way up to more aggressive shoes after you have a good base in climbing technique and have grown to love climbing.

Many experienced climbing gurus that you can find online, especially on YouTube, often suggest that you should just skip beginner shoes and switch to more aggressive shoes straight away. However, the more you climb, the more comfortable you become with your feet wedged in tiny shoes, and the easier it is to transition to more aggressive shoes. That means seasoned gurus may have forgotten what it’s like to be a beginner and how uncomfortable climbing shoes are. Not to mention the pain your feet endure when you train them to bend downwards.

As a beginner, it’s important to climb as often as possible so you can quickly build strength and technique. If you’re in constant pain from wearing your aggressive climbing shoes, chances are you’re getting distracted while climbing and aren’t building your skill or love of rock climbing.

Additionally, the cost of more aggressive shoes compared to beginner’s shoes can be a significant barrier for those just starting out in climbing.

That said, you’ll likely increase your climbing performance faster if you wear more comfortable shoes because it’s more comfortable to climb and easier to focus on technique, strength, and balance than if you’re constantly in pain from your aggressive shoes.

Should you buy used climbing shoes?

Climbing gear designed for safety should always be bought brand new to ensure it meets safety standards and does its job properly. However, climbing shoes are not necessary for your safety, so you can buy climbing shoes already worn/used.

If you’re looking to buy used shoes, be sure to check them for the following before you buy:

The current condition of the rubber/soles – make sure they are not cracked, lifted from the edges or excessively worn. This check ensures that you can enjoy many climbing sessions before having to resole or replace the rims

The condition of the upper – make sure the stitching is tight and there are no tears or holes

Should you rent climbing shoes

If you don’t climb often and don’t want to invest in a pair of climbing shoes, then you can rent them. The price of hiring climbing shoes can add up, so it may be worth buying your own pair, but in the meantime, hiring shoes is better than wearing tennis shoes or climbing barefoot.

What is the difference between flexible and rigid climbing shoes?

Stiff climbing shoes have extra support so you can keep your body weight on your toes without tiring. In contrast, flexible climbing shoes don’t support you as well, but it’s usually easier to feel the rock beneath your feet. With added sensitivity to the rock beneath your feet, you may be able to make your movements more precise and further improve your technique.

shoe fit

How much room should I have in my climbing shoes?

You shouldn’t have room in your climbing shoes. Climbing shoes are designed to fit your feet like a glove, which means your heel and toes touch the ends of the climbing shoes. Any range of motion in the shoe can affect your ability to rely on small holds and may cause you to slip.

Should climbing shoes be smaller than street shoes?

Yes. Most street shoes are built to leave room in the toe and heel for comfort. However, climbing shoes should be small enough that there is no room to move your toe or heel. The average climber wears a size smaller in climbing shoes than in street shoes. The range is typically ½-2 sizes smaller and usually depends on the brand of climbing shoe and the aggressiveness of the climbing shoe.

If climbing shoes hurt

A myth about rock climbing is that if your feet don’t hurt, your shoes aren’t tight enough. This myth stems from people trying to increase the sensitivity of the rock and hopefully allow you to use smaller kicks. However, studies suggest that wearing shoes that are too small is probably more harmful than a performance boost. Climbing shoes should not be super comfortable, but rather narrow on the foot so that there is no room to maneuver. You might feel a little uncomfortable, but you don’t want them to be too tight that it takes your focus and attention away from your climb.

How do you break in climbing shoes?

Although there are ways to reduce the break-in period of climbing shoes, the easiest way is to wear them while climbing. Wear them as long as possible during the climbing session and then take them off when you can no longer wear them. Many climbers carry an extra pair of climbing shoes while breaking in their new shoes so that they can swap out when their new shoes become too tiring.

In each climbing session you can wear them longer and longer until you can wear them for the entire climbing session.

How long does it take to break in climbing shoes?

Depending on the material a shoe is made of, shoes can take 1-7 days to break in if you wear them daily while climbing. Some material is easy to break open and only takes a day to climb. Other materials require more work, like wearing in the shower and wearing for a few hours at home for a week in addition to wearing when climbing.

How do you reduce the time it takes to break in climbing shoes?

There are many ways to shorten the break-in period of climbing shoes.

A common technique is to wear climbing shoes under a hot shower. The heat and water make the material pliable and as it dries it will conform to your feet and fit like a glove.

Some climbing gyms have shoe stretchers, which are used to loosen the stiffness of the shoe and stretch it to better fit your feet.

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How tight should climbing shoes be?

Your climbing shoes need to be tight enough so your toes don’t wobble or move. A myth about climbing shoes recommends making the shoes as snug as possible, even if the pain distracts you from climbing. Wearing climbing shoes that are very painful to wear is more likely to cause long-term foot damage than any additional performance you’re hoping to get from the tiny shoes.

Since most people are used to wobbling in their shoes, some people feel uncomfortable in climbing shoes even if they are the right size. A good rule of thumb is to buy a pair of shoes that are as small as you can fit your feet, but not small enough that the pain interferes with your climbing experience.

How should climbing shoes for children fit?

Because children’s feet grow quickly, it is important that they are not too small and damage children’s growth plates. To avoid this, you want to make sure the shoes are snug enough that they don’t wobble around, but are still comfortable for your child to wear. If your kid puts on the shoes and says his feet hurt, adjust the heel strap and make them bigger.

Most children’s street shoes have a lot of room in the toe box because parents buy them for a few months. This can make your child uncomfortable if the shoes are tight on their feet, but it doesn’t cause pain. If you can, ask them if it hurts or if they’re okay with climbing in it. If they say they can climb in it, let them. If they say it’s too small or that it hurts, make them bigger.

In the end, it doesn’t matter if the shoes are too big if they feel uncomfortable and otherwise don’t want to wear the shoes. It is more important that they feel comfortable than having comfortable shoes. The more they climb, the more they realize how tight their shoes should be. So it’s worth asking her about it throughout the session so you can tighten or loosen her as needed.

How should approach shoes fit?

Since approach shoes are used to hike miles, they should be slightly looser than climbing shoes. Your approach shoes should be snug but allow you to walk normally and spread your toes as you put your weight on the balls of your feet.

shoe care

Which shoes smell the worst

Most climbing shoes are made with antimicrobial products to limit the growth of bacteria that causes the shoes to smell. However, all climbing shoes stink if you don’t prevent yourself. Synthetic shoes tend to be smellier than other materials. Evolv Defy/Elektras, for example, tend to be smellier than other beginner shoes because they are made of synthetic uppers.

Why climbing shoes smell bad

Because most climbers don’t wear socks with their climbing shoes, climbing shoes tend to smell more than other types of shoes. Shoe odor is caused by bacterial growth in the shoe. Bacterial growth is encouraged by dead skin and sweat on your feet, coupled with the dark sanctuary that climbing shoes provide. If you are looking for cheap ways to make your shoes smell better, check out (11 CHEAP ways to make your shoes smell better)

What keeps shoes smelling fresh

Some climbers’ shoes don’t seem to smell as bad as other climbers. Part of that is what the shoes are made of, and part of that because some climbers don’t sweat their feet. However, it is usually related to the preventive care they use. For example, let your shoes air out after each climbing session so that they can dry quickly. You can also use an antibacterial spray after each climb and scrub your feet with a pumice stone to avoid dead skin remaining in your shoes. For a list of ways to keep your shoes fresh, see this article (11 CHEAP ways to make your shoes smell better).

How long should climbing shoes last?

Climbing shoes usually last between 3-14 months. How long your climbing shoes last depends on how often you climb, what rocks you climb, how precise your footwork is, and how you care for your shoes when you’re not climbing. Because of this, there is no specific time when you can count on your shoes to last. Some climbers report replacing their shoes every three months, while other climbers take longer than a year before replacing their climbing shoes.

When should you wear approach shoes

Many outdoor climbing routes require you to hike a few miles while carrying heavy ropes and climbing gear. Approach shoes provide you with support similar to hiking shoes without the added weight. They also come with a sticky rubber sole, so they’re better at gripping rocks than most outdoor shoes.

When should you wear climbing shoes

Climbing shoes should only be worn when climbing. Take them off when belaying, hiking or walking, etc. In addition to wearing out your climbing shoes faster, wearing your climbing shoes when you’re not climbing can soil the toes of your shoes. Dirt on your climbing shoes makes it difficult to smear and grab small footholds.

How do you improve the grip of shoes without resoling them?

The first thing you should do is hand clean the soles of your shoes with some water and hand soap. Dirt and limescale can make them slippery, so cleaning should help.

If that doesn’t work, some climbers reported that this works if you have a lot of rubber on your shoe: wash the soles with warm water, then vigorously brush them with a wire brush.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B1AqA2VjU0J/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Where should you store your climbing shoes?

Climbing shoes should be stored at room temperature and where they can dry out easily. Avoid keeping them in humid places or in your backpack where sweat can’t dry.

Can you stow climbing shoes in the car?

In general, you should not stow your climbing shoes in the car. If you live in a relatively mild temperature area and your car’s temperature is stable at room temperature with minimal humidity, consider keeping them in your car. Excessive heat can melt the glue holding the rubber to your shoes. In addition, intense cold can make the rubber of your shoes brittle and more likely to crack or break.

Is storing climbing shoes in the cold bad for them?

Yes, if you store your climbing shoes in the cold, the rubber on your shoes can crack or break more easily. For this reason, you should avoid storing climbing shoes in the cold.

Is storing climbing shoes in a hot car bad for her?

Yes, if your shoes get too hot in the car, the glue can melt and the rubber can separate from the upper of your shoes. To ensure longer life, store your shoes in a dry area at room temperature.

What makes a climbing shoe

What are the main materials used in climbing shoes?

Climbing shoes all have different types of rubber, but when people talk about the materials used in climbing shoes, they are usually referring to the upper part of the climbing shoe. The three most common materials are:

Unlined leather

Lined leather

synthetic

What is the difference between unlined and lined leather?

The biggest difference between unlined and lined leather climbing shoes is the stretch.

Unlined leather can stretch a full size

Lined leather may stretch half a size

In addition, unlined leather tends to be more breathable than lined leather, which feels more comfortable against the skin.

What is the difference between leather and synthetic climbing shoes?

Aside from the fact that leather shoes generally smell better than synthetic climbing shoes, the biggest difference is how much they stretch. Synthetic climbing shoes do not stretch and are the best at retaining their shape and size. Im Vergleich dazu kann sich Leder um eine ganze Größe dehnen.

Welches Material ist das Beste?

Da sich das Material an den Füßen anders anfühlt, probieren die meisten Kletterer jeden der Kletterschuhe an und entscheiden, was für sie am bequemsten ist. Darüber hinaus gibt es ein paar persönliche Schlüsselaspekte, die Sie berücksichtigen können:

Schwitzen Ihre Füße stark? Ungefüttertes Leder ist das atmungsaktivste Material

Do you have sensitive skin? Gefüttertes Leder ist im Allgemeinen am weichsten auf Ihrer Haut

Haben Sie Bedenken, Leder/Tierhaut zu tragen? Synthetikschuhe sind tierfreundlich

https://www.instagram.com/p/B65yggJjjj5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Was sind die verschiedenen Teile des Kletterschuhs?

Kletterschuhe sind alle aus den gleichen Grundkomponenten aufgebaut:

sole

midsole

Fußbett

edge

Ferse/Fersenschale

Zehenbox/Zehengummi

Oberer, höher

closure

Laschen ziehen

Last

Was ist die Sohle (Laufsohle) in einem Kletterschuh

Die Sohle ist der Gummiteil des Schuhs, der den Fels berührt. Je nach Art des Gummis kann es unterschiedlich auf dem Fels haften. Außerdem ist dies der Teil des Schuhs, für den die meisten Kletterer mehr Geld ausgeben.

Was ist die Zwischensohle in einem Kletterschuh?

Die Mittelsohle ist die Schicht zwischen Sohle und Fußbett. Diese Schicht bestimmt die Steifigkeit eines Kletterschuhs. Die Zwischensohle variiert von dünner, teilweiser oder geteilter Zwischensohle. Beispielsweise ist die Zwischensohle in Kinder-Kletterschuhen normalerweise in voller Länge und erzeugt Steifheit durch den gesamten Kletterschuh.

Das Fußbett, auch Brandsohle genannt, berührt im Kletterschuh deine Fußsohlen. Dies ist auch der Teil des Schuhs, der üblicherweise aus antimikrobiellem Material besteht, um zu verhindern, dass die Kletterschuhe stinken.

Was ist der Rand in einem Kletterschuh?

Der Rand ist die Gummischicht, die den Schuh zwischen der Außensohle und dem Obermaterial umgibt und über Ihren Zeh geht. Hier wird auch die Außensohle verklebt und mit dem Obermaterial verbunden.

Was ist die Ferse/Fersenschale in einem Kletterschuh?

Die Fersenschale ist der Teil des Schuhs, der sich an Ihre Ferse anpasst und verhindert, dass sich der hintere Teil Ihres Fußes im Schuh bewegt. Typischerweise sind die Fersenkappen von Herren-Kletterschuhen größer als bei Damen-Kletterschuhen. Es ist auch der Teil des Schuhs, den Sie für Fersenhaken verwenden.

Was ist die Zehenbox/Zehengummi in einem Kletterschuh?

Die Zehenbox ist der Bereich des Kletterschuhs, der es Kletterern ermöglicht, ihr Gewicht auf die Zehen zu verlagern, ohne zu ermüden.

Was ist das Obermaterial eines Kletterschuhs?

Das Obermaterial ist das Material über dem Gummi, das sich um die Oberseite Ihres Fußes wickelt. In der Regel ist es Leder oder Synthetik.

Was ist der Verschluss in einem Kletterschuh?

Der Verschluss dient dazu, deinen Kletterschuh festzuziehen, damit er beim Klettern nicht herunterfällt. Es gibt drei Haupttypen von Kletterschuh-Verschlusssystemen:

Geschnürt

Velcro

Slipper

Was sind die Zuglaschen in einem Kletterschuh?

Da Kletterschuhe so eng sind, sind sie mit Zuglaschen ausgestattet, an denen Kletterer ziehen können, um ihre Füße in den Schuh zu stopfen. Zuglaschen sind auch eine großartige Schlaufe, um den Karabiner beim Transport Ihrer Schuhe zu befestigen. Auf diese Weise müssen Sie sie nicht in Ihre Tasche stecken, wenn sie verschwitzt sind.

Was ist das letzte in einem Kletterschuh

Der Leisten ist die Fußform, an die der Kletterschuh geformt wurde. Es bestimmt, wie breit oder schmal die Schuhe sind.

Was ist die asymmetrische Form in einem Kletterschuh?

Die asymmetrische Form im Zeh (der längste Punkt des Schuhs befindet sich über dem großen Zeh) wird verwendet, um Kletterer zu unterstützen, indem sie Kraft an der Innenkante des Schuhs liefert, sodass Sie kleine Tritte verwenden können. It is also one of the biggest differences between climbing shoes and other sports shoes.

Is There A Difference Between Men’s And Women’s Shoes?

Besides the color, the sizing is usually the only difference between men’s and women’s climbing shoes. Men’s shoes are typically wider and women’s are more narrow. Of course, women may fit better in men’s shoes and vice versa so don’t use the gender tag as a decision-maker when comparing shoes. This difference is most obvious when comparing the heel cup so try on the pair of shoes before buying them. Even if you plan to buy them online, check out your local climbing shop for sizing.

Climbing Shoe Brands

What Brands In Climbing Shoes Are There?

Depending on where you live, you may not have access to every brand at your local climbing store. For example, I checked three different climbing shops and outdoor shops before ordering my Mad Rock Drone Shoes online. (Check out why I bought these Mad Rock Drone after wearing La Sportiva Solutions)

Boreal

Butora

Climb X

Evolv

Five Ten/Addidas

La Sportiva

Mad Rock

Red Chili

Scarpa

Tenaya

Did I Miss Anything?

This article was created to provide the answer to every question you may have about climbing shoes. However, there is a chance that you had a question I couldn’t think of or find in my hours of research. If you have additional questions or need clarification on something, please comment below so we can provide that information to you and any other climber that may be wondering the same thing.

Wearing small climbing shoes has become part of the sport/lifestyle of climbing. Climbers have been known to downsize their climbing shoes incredibly and flaunt it like a badge of honour. But why are they doing this? Is this just a trend that has caught on, or do incredibly tight climbing shoes actually have an advantage?

Climbers wear small climbing shoes to increase their climbing performance. Small climbing shoes offer climbers an improved fit compared to larger shoes. This improved fit increases the climber’s sensitivity and allows them to use smaller kicks.

While tight shoes have their benefits, they don’t come without a price. Wearing small shoes can cause problems for climbers in both the short and long term. It’s up to the climber to decide if the pros outweigh the cons. Read on to learn more about the pros and cons of small climbing shoes.

Advantages of small climbing shoes

Small climbing shoes give climbers a lot more feeling and sensitivity in their feet. This allows them to actually feel the rock beneath their feet. While this may not be particularly important for novice climbers, it is important for more experienced climbers.

Experienced climbers must be able to climb difficult routes that require very technical movements. A foot that deviates by just a few millimeters can cause a climber to slip and fall off the route.

Small shoes also pinch the climber’s toes. This toe crunch allows climbers to shift more weight to the forefoot and use incredibly small kicks. If the shoes are too big, the climbers would not be able to concentrate their weight as well and would flake off the route.

In addition to increased sensitivity, tight climbing shoes allow climbers to perform movements that would not be as effective in larger shoes. For example, climbers can hold heel hooks in small shoes that would otherwise not be possible in larger shoes because their heels would slip too much in the shoe.

Climber about to hook a large heel hold

Trusting your feet is very important when climbing at an advanced level. Climbing is as technical as it is physical. Not even the best climbers in the world can climb extremely technical routes with small steps in oversized climbing shoes.

Small climbing shoes can give climbers the opportunity to actually feel the rock and utilize incredibly small kicks. If soccer is a ‘game of centimetres’, then rock climbing is a ‘game of millimetres’ and advanced climbers need to use every millimeter they can.

Disadvantages of small climbing shoes

As I mentioned above, there are downsides to having a small climbing shoe.

Small climbing shoes are uncomfortable and can cause pain to climbers if they are too tight. Because of the discomfort and pain, climbers remove their shoes between attempts to air their feet and give them respite from the tightness of their shoes.

Let’s be totally honest with each other here. Wearing painfully tight climbing shoes is basically a less extreme form of foot binding. You know, the Chinese custom of tying young girls’ feet to change their shape and size.

In an article by Andrew Bisharat, published on Eveningsends.com and linked here, he explains that 15 years of cramming his feet into tight climbing shoes has actually shrunk his feet by a full size.

Note the similarities in shape and structure of ancient foot binding shoes and today’s climbing shoes.

A study by R.D. McHenry entitled “Footwear in Rock Climbing: Current Practice” is available online at sciencedirect.com. The study looked at how tight shoes are worn by experienced climbers and assessed whether this could create potential problems.

Of the 56 climbers analyzed, 55 were found to be wearing ‘shoes that were too tight’ (average shoe size reduction of 4 UK shoe sizes) and 91% of them reported foot pain during the activity. The study further found that foot injuries and deformities, including bunions, are common problems associated with climbing shoes that are too tight.

Of note, wearing smaller shoes may not be as dangerous as the study found. Wearing shoes that fit properly (without being too tight) will mitigate these potential injuries and deformities.

Additionally, these injuries don’t just develop overnight. Once you go climbing with your friends in moderately small shoes, the shape of your foot will not change. These injuries/distortions require you to put your feet in incredibly tight shoes frequently and for long periods of time.

Find the right climbing shoe size for you

Now that you understand the pros and cons of wearing small climbing shoes, you might be wondering how tight shoes you should wear.

While I won’t go into great detail here, it basically boils down to how important climbing is to you. If you don’t want to take climbing as a leisure hobby and not too seriously, you don’t need shoes that are too tight.

However, very experienced climbers looking to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their shoes will most likely opt for painfully tight shoes.

For beginners, I recommend going a little smaller than your normal shoe size, but not doing anything too crazy. Just find a shoe size that is snug but not too uncomfortable. You’ll already be improving at an incredible rate, and you don’t need to have extremely tight shoes to do it. Leave foot binding to the professionals.

The final result

Wearing smaller shoes allows climbers to have increased sensitivity and grip on small steps. However, this has its price – the narrower the climbing shoes, the more uncomfortable they become. I believe climbers should find the right balance between comfort and performance in their shoes. For elite climbers, this typically means sacrificing a tremendous amount of comfort in order to increase their climbing performance.

One of the worst aspects of rock climbing can be breaking in new shoes. Climbing shoes can often be so painful that they have to be removed after every route or boulder problem. Part of this stems from the old-school mentality that climbing shoes need to fit tighter than a crab’s ass. This really isn’t true, and finding a shoe that fits your foot properly can relieve a lot of unnecessary aches and pains when you’re out on the rock.

However, even a properly fitting shoe is immediately stiff and requires a break-in period. Now read carefully: The following methods do not stretch any of the rubber parts of the shoe. However, they will serve to stretch a leather upper and give your toes extra room where they need it most.

The shower

Yes, it’s weird, but it works.

Use this method when your shoes need a decent stretch. It works faster and in larger increments than the ice pack method.

Lace up your new shoes. Take your new climbing shoes out of the packaging. Make sure you remove any packaging and stickers that may be inside the shoe or on the sole. Slip your foot into the shoe and lace it snugly but not too tight.

Get in a hot shower. That’s correct. Step into a hot shower with your new climbing shoes on. Make sure the shoes are thoroughly soaked with hot water while they’re on your foot. Wiggling your toes also helps to stretch and shape the leather.

Walk around with shoes on your feet. Walk around your house with your shoes still wet. Leave them on until they feel like they are going to dry.

Stuff the shoes with newspaper. Stuff the shoes with newspaper to continue the drying process. Before the shoes are completely dry, step into them. This will help them fit your foot better, especially in the position your foot will be in when climbing. After climbing, put more newspaper inside to dry the rest of the way.

Repeat as needed. It may take a few iterations of the process before your shoes are fully fitted to your foot.

The ice pack

Slow and steady wins the race.

If your shoes only need a little stretch, the ice pack is the right choice. It’s also easier to fine tune the stretch in your shoes with the ice pack method.

Remove all packaging from your new shoes. Take your new climbing shoes out of the packaging. Make sure you remove any packaging and stickers that may be inside the shoe or on the sole.

Freeze your shoes. Take two ziplock bags (one for each shoe) and fill them with water until they are about the size of your foot. Put the sacks filled with water in your climbing shoes and lace them loosely around the sacks. Put your shoes in the freezer and leave them overnight.

Defrost your shoes. Take the shoes out of the freezer and let them thaw. The water will have expanded as it froze, stretching the shoe in the process. This process works in smaller steps than the shower method. So if your shoes need a quicker stretch, opt for the shower.

Repeat as needed. It may take a few iterations of the process to stretch your shoes enough to sit comfortably on your foot.

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Original post

Ted Pinson · Member since July 2014 · Points: 232 Dec 5, 2015 · Chicago, IL I’m just curious as the multiple sales still going on keep tempting me, but I feel like I’m about to become a shoe whore. I currently use a pair of Moccs as my go-to gym shoes and for the steep stuff, as well as a pair of comfortably sized Katana laces for all day trad/multi pitch and edging. My issue is that neither shoe is particularly good for bouldering…the Katana can get the job done, but with the stiff, mostly flat last, it’s not ideal for heavily overhanging/inverted climbs. The Moccs are good for this, but the softness doesn’t make them good for standing on small ledges in vertical terrain, and my heel always feels like it’s popping out when I clip in. So I’m thinking of something very asymmetrical, uncomfortable with quick on and off, like an Evolv Shaman (on sale for $100!) or Sportiva Solution for my third pair. do i have a problem Haha.

Benjamin Chapman · Joined January 2007 · Points: 16,755 December 5, 2015 · Small Town, USA I have a rock climbing friend who we call the Imelda Marcos of rock climbing…he has hundreds of pairs. My collection is much more modest…two pairs of LaSportiva Mythos, one vintage pair of Megas, two pairs of Evolv Pontas II, two vintage pairs of Ponta I, one pair of Kaos, four pairs of Shamans, and a 1/2 pair of Acopa Merlins (one was lost) . No problem. You can find the Shamans a lot cheaper than $100, especially now that the new Shaman (2016) has been introduced.

Gunkiemike · Member since July 2009 · Score: 3,162 December 5, 2015 · Unknown hometown I think I’m at 11 pairs now.

Oh wait I forgot the katanas…do the 12 pair.

JCM · Joined Jun 2008 · Score: 95 Dec 5, 2015 · Unknown hometown Ted Pinson wrote: Do I have a problem? Haha. Yes, you have a problem, but so do most of us who engage in rock climbing.

shoes anyway. Having three pairs is perfectly reasonable. Most climbers who follow multiple climbing styles and try to achieve a high level in each style will want to have a bunch of shoes to have a suitable shoe for each climbing style.

Most serious and versatile climbers will need at least 2-3 pairs of shoes. They are:

(A) Trad/crack/multipitch shoes. Comfortable size (for long stretches and jamming) but with a stiff sole (so you can still edge). Katana tip, TC Pro, Anasazi tip, etc…

(B) Tight performance shoes for sport climbing and bouldering. If you want it to be a sport/bouldering shoe that can do it all, it curves down (for steep ones) but still stiff enough for hard edges on vertical sport routes. It can also have rubber on the tip (for toe hooks) and a good locking system (no slip-ons!) for security when heel hooking. Shaman or solutions would both be good options. See also Testarossas, Miura VS, Instincts, Boostics, etc…

An optional third shoe (C) is a soft training shoe. The softness works well on plastic and helps make your feet stronger. In addition, this shoe is a long-term cost-saving measure; It’s a cheaper shoe than your outdoor performance shoes, and it saves you good shoes for your outdoor projects (no need to wear your solutions to the gym).

Your problem is that you have (A) and (C) but not (B). (B) is crucial if you are aiming for athletic climbing performance. Just buy the solutions (or whatever fits your foot). You will climb better and it will actually improve your footwork as you learn to use the performance shoes.

Also, I believe owning multiple shoes over a 10 year period costs no more than one pair at a time. You can burn out one pair a year, or rotate three pairs and let them last for several years. Yes, you have a problem, but so do most of us who are into this climbing thing. Anyway, shoes. Having three pairs is perfectly reasonable. Most climbers who follow multiple climbing styles and try to achieve a high level in each style will want to have a lot of shoes to have a suitable shoe for each climbing style. At least serious and versatile climbers need 2-3 pairs of shoes. They are: (A) Trad/crack/multipitch shoes. Comfortable size (for long stretches and jamming) but with a stiff sole (so you can still edge). Katana Lace, TC Pro, Anasazi Lace, etc…(B) Tight performance shoes for sport climbing and bouldering. If you want it to be a sport/bouldering shoe that can do it all, it curves down (for steep ones) but still stiff enough for hard edges on vertical sport routes. It can also have rubber on the tip (for toe hooks) and a good locking system (no slip-ons!) for security when heel hooking. Shaman or solutions would both be good options. See also Testarossas, Miura VS, Instincts, Boostics, etc. An optional third shoe (C) is a soft sneaker for training. The softness works well on plastic and helps make your feet stronger. In addition, this shoe is a long-term cost-saving measure; It’s a cheaper shoe than your outdoor performance shoes, and you can save yourself good shoes for your outdoor projects (no need to wear out your solutions at the gym). Your problem is that you have (A) and (C) but not B). (B) is crucial if you are aiming for athletic climbing performance. Just buy the solutions (or whatever fits your foot). You will climb better and it will actually improve your footwork as you learn to use the performance shoes. Also, I find that over a 10-year period, it won’t cost you more to have multiple shoes than it would to have one pair at a time. You can burn out one pair a year, or rotate three pairs and let them last for several years.

JCM Since Jun 2008 Points: 95 Dec 5, 2015 Unknown hometown Anyway, as an example of absurd amounts of shoes here is my current quiver:

Pythons, 38.5: Very tight, soft slippers for the gym and very overhanging sport routes and bouldering. Ideal for heel/toe jessery.

Pythons, 39: Similar but a little more comfortable. sports shoes.

Testarossas, 38.5: Go-to performance athletic shoes, for everything but roof climbing. Very tight. The best application seems to be small edges on a 25 degree overhanging wall. Kinda sucks for heel hooking.

Miura, 39.5: At least 5 years old, almost at the end of her second sole and quite broken. Edges no longer good. However, quite comfortable. Use these to warm up for sport climbing. Going in the trash can soon.

TC Pro, 39.5: Performance trading shoe. Toes slightly curled Brilliant for micro edging on slightly less than vertical granite. Nice for wider cracks, sucks for thin cracks.

TC Pro, 40: Same idea, more comfortable for multi-pitches (but not quite all-day comfort). Optimum balance for tough multi-rope lengths, as long as you put them down at a few belay points.

Miura, 40.5: I’ve had these for years, but I really don’t have a place in the lineup for them. They’re more comfortable than the narrower TC Pros, so I can use them as a long easy route shoe, but they’re not quite comfortable enough to be a true all-day alpine rock shoe. Toes not yet flat enough for thin cracks. Not impressed with the edge at this size. All in all kind of a fool. She should probably sell.

But with all these shoes, I still have two noticeable gaps. I’d like a specific shoe with thin cleats (toe flat, narrow profile…if the TCs are too clunky) as well as a stiffer, swept-down athletic shoe (like a Miura VS) for dead-height athletic edges (where the Testarossas in feel a bit soft).

Mark Paulson · Member since Sep. 2010 · Score: 141 Dec 5, 2015 · Raleigh, NC JCM wrote: But with all these shoes, I still have two noticeable gaps. I’d like a specific shoe with thin cleats (toe flat, narrow profile…if the TCs are too clunky) as well as a stiffer, swept-down athletic shoe (like a Miura VS) for dead-height athletic edges (where the Testarossas in feel a bit soft). If they suit your feet, I would recommend the Boostics for athletic edges. As aggressive as the VS, but with a stiffer forefoot platform and better velcro, plus some rubber on the ankles (I think VS are terrible toe hooks).

My active rotation:

2 x Boostics 41, one new sole each: The best vertical edge shoe I have ever used. Great on hard edges on the NRG or sharp nubs on the Ten Sleep.

Furias, 41.5: Very overhanging sport and bouldering. Great for toe hooks and surprisingly comfortable due to the softness.

Miuras, 39.5, 2 resoles: Will be my go-to shoe for NC when you need a bit of everything. A good sports shoe up to 11 (although Ondra does 5.15 in them).

Merlins, 8, 4 midsoles: Still my most comfortable shoe. I use them for warm ups and plates and oddly anything that requires a full weight heel hook. My only shoes with no airspace.

It’s nice to have a second pair of your “performance” shoes because there’s a lot more chance of a pair being resoled when they actually need it if you still have a pair to climb into while they’re out are gone… If it suits you feet I would recommend the Boostics for sport edges. As aggressive as the VS, but with a stiffer forefoot platform and better Velcro, plus some rubber on the ankle (I think VS are terrible toe hooks). My active rotation: 2 x Boostics 41, one resole each: The best vertical edging shoe I’ve used. Great on hard edges on the NRG or sharp nubs on the Ten Sleep. Furias, 41.5: Very overhanging sport and bouldering. Great for toe hooks and surprisingly comfortable due to the softness. Miuras, 39.5, 2 interchangeable soles: Will be my trad shoe for NC when you need to do a little of everything. A good sports shoe up to 11 (although Ondra does 5.15 in them). Merlins, 8, 4 resoles: Still my most comfortable shoe. I use them for warm ups and plates and oddly anything that requires a full weight heel hook. My only shoes without any air space. It’s nice to have a second pair of your “performance” shoes because you’re far more likely to get a pair resole when they actually need it, if you have another pair to climb while they’re gone…

FrankPS · Member since Nov 2009 · Score: 276 Dec 5, 2015 · Atascadero, CA I have two pairs of TC Pros and two pairs of Katana VS. I like to have one of each available for when one is resoled.

I also have several pairs of rental shoes that I no longer use, but if I’m new to climbing with someone and they wear my size, they can use them. (I think that last sentence is called the “run-up sentence”.)

Hiro Protagonist · Joined April 2012 · Points: 290 Dec 5, 2015 · Colorado I’m on FrankPS except I’d up your variety. I have Katana+Miura velcro for gym/bouldering/sports. And I have TC Pros and a $30 pair of purple Mythos for trad/comfort. Either way, the alternative is good enough when you’re away to resole.

Since you already have shoes I would wait until you see good deals here on For Sale or wherever to start building your collection. Take the opportunity to try different shoes too – I’m waiting to find solutions in my size. If you don’t mind, you can buy blown toe shoes and have them repaired super cheap – the main downside of this is that you’re never sure what size you’ll end up with.

(PS – I apologize to everyone for always blaming used/new soles, but we really have too much shit in this world already)

Chris Schmidt · Member since Nov 2012 · Score: 0 Dec 6, 2015 · Fruita I have found that with enough patience you can generally find a new pair or a newer pair for not much more than the cost of a resole.

Because of this I have about 10 pairs of shoes (8 of which need a midsole lol). 2 are the 5.10 Stoneland Slippers I got shipped from Amazon for $42. I bought a pair of Tenayas here that were 80-90% rubber for $35 or so. Guy included a 2nd pair at no extra cost as the velcro is starting to deteriorate.

There are so many good deals to be found online and even if you don’t find what you are looking for, chances are someone else took a chance on a shoe that fits you and they don’t like it. Most people are pretty honest when they say they’ve tried them 5 times at the gym and they don’t like the fit. Every time I see a pair of 5,10 shoes for sale here I make sure it’s my size. Many of the sellers are quite motivated and will accept less than what they ask for.

KayJ Since May 2012 Points: 65 Dec 6, 2015 Oregon Three.

One for sports. One for cracks. One for the gym. But it seems like you always need a resole, so it gets very confusing for me.

Last – When a climbing shoe is made, it is built around a foot-shaped mold. This shape is called the last and has a major impact on the fit and style of the shoe. We use custom lasts during our resoling process.

Upper – This is the leather or textile material that holds the whole shoe together. We don’t alter this section of the shoe as it affects the fit.

Rand – the thin layer of rubber that covers the toe of the shoe and sits underneath between the sole and upper. This rubber becomes thin with wear and eventually a hole can form.

Cup (sole concavity) – not present on all shoes. Some aggressively downward-curved shoes also have a concave shape of the sole just below your toes, which can help hook into pockets or small toe grips. This is especially helpful on overhanging terrain, but can reduce the contact area and therefore friction when smearing.

Sole – the 3 to 6mm thick layer of rubber on the bottom of the shoe. The sole of a new or newly resoled shoe has a sharp edge that allows for precise edging with small steps. As the sole wears, this edge becomes rounded, offering less contact area and therefore less friction on small sharp features.

Arch – The arch of the shoe contributes to how aggressive the shoe becomes and is built in during manufacture. Aggressive shoes are built around an aggressive last. This is particularly important as the arch of the foot can be affected when resoling if the wrong last is used.

Alex Megos belongs to the exclusive circle of world-class climbing elite. Of the 35 million rock wrestlers on this planet, only 7 people have ever climbed 9b+. Even more impressive is that he is the only person besides Adam Ondra to have climbed the elusive grade of 9c.

Megos is also known as one of the strongest climbers in the business. His forearms of steel have helped this young German become known as one of the top onsight climbers in the world, with not one but three onsight ascents of 9a. Put that into perspective with Ondra’s single 9a onsight and you get a picture of just how good this guy really is.

While Megos feels at home breaking rock, he’s also a worthy competitor on the competitive circuit. Initially he didn’t seem ready to break into the competitive climbing scene, but after winning bronze and silver at the 2018 and 2019 World Championships he now seems quite comfortable tearing up the competition.

Evolv’s contender for dominance in the steep world of hard sport climbing and bouldering, the Chris Sharma-designed Shaman comes very close to the crown. Although Sharma could probably climb 5.14 with the box the shoe came in, he paid attention to the details when designing this incredible, function-specific shoe. These shoes are excellent when it’s steep; However, our testers found them lacking in more technical, vertical terrain. Select these shoes in store, maybe half a size larger than your street shoe size. They also stretch significantly over their lifetime and as is typical of all Evolv synthetic shoes, they can get quite smelly if not cared for properly.

performance comparison

The shamans are an aggressive tool in the fight against the dreaded pump. Here they are waiting for action in Sinks Canyon. Credit: Matt Bento

edge

While the Shaman is certainly no slouch, it fell short of other high-end climbing shoes in the edge department. The Trax rubber is softer than you’d expect for such an aggressively swept-down toe, and tends to deform around minor features. Our testers described feeling insecure on tiny bumps in Tuolumne Meadows and the sharp limestone edges on Wild Iris. If your local climbing calls for maximum edges, we believe a stiffer shoe will likely perform better.

These shoes hold onto a sharp edge, but the rubber is so thick it’s difficult to know what you’re standing on. Credit: Matt Bento

crack climbing

Surprise surprise! The shaman is not too shabby in the cracks. The updated design features three Velcro straps that are smaller than those of the first-gen Shaman, allowing for more convenient clamping in hand-sized cracks. The flat, pointed toe also fitted well into thinner cracks. The aggressive downswing of these shoes isn’t ideal for sustained cracks, but if your next steep project involves a little jamming, you’ll be fine with a pair of Shamans.

A low-volume toe box and wide fit kept our testers happy in cracks, even though these shoes were designed for steep limestone. Credit: Matt Bento

Steep terrain

The shaman excels at bags. Toe that curves down sharply grabs and pulls into holes. With an incredibly secure fit in the arch and heel, it allows you to apply plenty of power through your toes and pull hard all day until your hip flexors and hamstrings are ready to give out. And although the rubber is soft and unsuitable for edges, it grips well on steep terrain. The only downside is that the toes are a bit blunt and blocky compared to some pointier shoes, so you can’t even put them in tiny pockets.

Here, our tester smashes the soft rubber into a flat pocket to get to the top. Credit: Matt Bento

sensitivity

This shoe puts a lot of rubber between you and the rock, 4.2mm to be exact. Our testers, while supportive, struggled to feel small features on low-angle boards or technical climbs with small holds. For these missions, we preferred more sensitive shoes with softer midsoles and thinner rubber.

It’s easy to see that the Shamans feature a lot of rubber, too much for the liking of our testers, who prefer a more delicate shoe. Credit: Matt Bento

comfort

Shaman comfort is top notch. It has a medium-wide fit and the Love Bump keeps your toe in the power position without having to rely on a super tight heel digging into your tender Achilles tendon. The low-profile Velcro straps went completely unnoticed when we wedged them into cracks or flexed the shoe on plates and swabs. You should adjust these shoes to your street shoe or maybe even half a size bigger.

The heel of this shoe is snug and comfortable, and there’s plenty of rubber on the upper for secure toe-hooking. Credit: Matt Bento

value

The Shaman lands right in the middle of the price range for high-end climbing shoes – not a mega bargain, but also not an empty-bag affair around the corner. After two months of rigorous testing, we have found no damage or delamination, and Evolv offers in-house resoling for all of their shoes at a competitive price.

When wearing Chris Sharma’s shoes, sometimes the best thing to do is cut your feet and scream. Credit: Matt Bento

Conclusion

The has won the hearts of many climbers and has won a number of awards along the way. However, when comparing these shoes to our other favorites, we couldn’t get beyond the softness of the rubber as a key factor in our review. This rubber limits edge maneuverability compared to other high-end models, and with lots of rubber underfoot, it doesn’t make up for it with more sensitivity. The toe also feels a bit blunt, making it harder to fit into small gaps or place on thin edges. As with any high-end climbing shoe, the final choice comes down to personal preference and what you’re climbing.