How Long Do Water Balloons Last? The 25 Correct Answer

Latex rubber balloon filled with water

A selection of filled water balloons

A water balloon or water bomb is a water-filled balloon, often made of latex rubber. Water balloons are used in a summer pastime to cool down by water balloon fights. Water balloons are also popular for celebrations, including celebrating Holi and Mardi Gras in India, Nepal and several other countries.[1]

Types [ edit ]

Water balloons are common in sizes of 40 and 100mm or 1+1⁄2 and 4 inches, although larger sizes are available. Typically, water balloons are sold in bulk and often include an inflation nozzle in the package. Many of the cheap brands use small water balloons and generic jets, both of which tend to be difficult to use.

An octahedral paper bomb.

Another type of depth charge is a sheet of paper folded to form a container that can hold water.[2] These are then filled and used much like latex versions.

Gas balloons (air or helium types) can be used as water balloons but are typically not preferred due to the difference in balloon wall thickness. A water balloon is designed to be filled to about the size of a pear-shaped baseball (to make it easier to throw), while some gas balloons, when filled with water, can reach the size of a basketball. This is disadvantageous as these balloons are more difficult to handle and usually require two hands. Mainly for safety reasons, water balloon walls are designed to be thick enough to be held without bursting, but thin enough to burst on impact.

In a similar process to gas balloons, water balloons can be cast into various shapes during manufacture. One method involves a patented mandrel to produce elastomeric articles.[3]

Filling and binding devices[ edit ]

A variety of water balloons placed in water to prevent bursting.

Water balloons are typically filled from an indoor faucet, an outdoor faucet, or at the end of a garden hose. Several types of fill nozzles are available in the consumer market, available in threaded (standard 3⁄4 inch [1.9 cm] in the US) and non-threaded versions. Unthreaded nozzles are called hoppers and can be difficult to use. Some brands of nozzles are referred to as superchargers instead of nozzles, but there is no distinction between other types of nozzles. Nozzles may include a valve feature to turn the water source on or off as needed.

Homemade water balloon inflation stations can incorporate water balloon nozzles or valves that are available on the market, or use common plumbing fittings. These stations can have one or more nozzles or valves. Portable and fixed station designs each have different advantages and disadvantages depending on the deployment site, the number of system users, and the amount of inflated water balloons needed. Multi-jet stations not only allow for the filling of more water balloons for adults planning upcoming youth events, or to prevent boredom for children who are upset about how difficult it can be to fill a balloon on a hose barb, but improve it social interactions in the group are also significant, which is very important with toys for children and adult volunteers working with children.

Several toy companies have developed balloon tying and inflation devices that allow the user to easily fill and tie water balloons.

Environmental Impact[ edit ]

Water balloons, like balloons, are generally made of latex, which naturally degrades.[4] While there could still be some environmental impact if burst water balloons are left in the wild for animals to ingest, those impacts would be small. However, some balloons are made of mylar, which does not (or only very slowly) degrade. When mylar balloons are used as water bombs, throwing away or leaving mylar balloons has a much larger environmental impact.

Yo-yo balloon [ edit ]

Yo-yo balloons, also known as yo-yo-tsuris, are a common type of water balloon found at matsuri festivals in Japan. The usually small, round, and brightly colored balloons are filled with air and about 45 ml (1.6 Imp fl oz; 1.5 US fl oz) of water to a diameter of about 75 mm (3 in).[5] The balloon is clipped or tied and hung on an elastic cord with a finger loop tied at the end. This gives them enough weight and bounce to act as a yo-yo, earning them their name.[6][7] The balloons are often won in a game (Yo-yo Tsuri or just Yo-yo[8]) where they float in a tub of water. Players “fish” the balloons with a hook at the end of a twisted string of paper.[9] Because the wet paper string breaks easily, the game is often compared to scooping goldfish in terms of difficulty.

The Wii video game Ennichi no Tatsujin includes a virtual Yo-yo Tsuri game.

world record[edit]

Guinness World Records maintains a record category for the largest water balloon fight. The current holder is the University of Kentucky Christian Student Fellowship, a campus ministry of Christian Churches and Churches of Christ.

Gallery [ edit ]

Pricking a filled water balloon

High speed recording of a water balloon bursting

See also[edit]

Posted on October 5, 2018 | Last updated December 1, 2021

I’m officially the boy who cried wolf when it comes to this balloon garland tutorial! I’m sorry that so many of you have had to wait so long, but life has been crazy the last few months. I haven’t shared as much content as I’d like while trying to figure out how many projects are too many with Piper. Trying to settle into my new normal has been harder than I thought. But I’ll talk more about that later and get to the good stuff! I’ll do my best to answer your questions, but you can also leave a comment below and I’ll respond as soon as possible. If you are a visual person, you can check out a short tutorial saved under the balloon highlight on Instagram.

MATERIALS NEEDED FOR YOUR DIY BALOON GARLANDE

Balloons of Different Sizes and Colors: I usually use a variety, but most of these are 11 inches. Bargainballoons.com has a wide selection. Honestly, the best part about these balloon garlands is that you can’t mess them up! I recommend ordering 9″, 11″, 16″ and some 36″ round balloons.

balloon ribbon

Balloon Pump – this will make your life WAAAAY easier!

Fishing line or string for hanging

Command hooks, thumbtacks or wall mount. Or to make it easier, you can hang from existing furniture or nails, a stair rail, window treatments, etc. The balloons are only filled with air, so the garland is almost weightless!

First things first, the materials. I use Qualatex balloons every time. I think they last the longest and are more durable. Also, they have a matte finish which I really like! But I’ve used balloons from every store that sells them, so it just depends on what’s easiest for you. You can also buy on Amazon!

INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR DIY BALLOON GARLAND:

Inflate your balloons with the balloon pump. I like alternating colors and sizes. You can start by inflating about a dozen in the main color, then a handful in the other colors. See some examples below! Don’t worry that all the balloons are the same size, I love the variation.

Take your tape and insert the balloons into every other hole. There are big holes and smaller holes, I use the smaller ones so it’s really secure. Add a balloon that goes up and down. The alternating aids give some movement to the balloon garland. Don’t worry about changing colors or anything like that. It might look a bit odd at first, but I promise once it’s 4-5 feet long it will start to take shape!

Ta-da! You have the ultimate balloon garland ready!

Color combination ideas for balloon garlands

Balloon garlands are a DIY project and can be made in any color combination. Here is a list of color combinations:

Red, Gold and Blue (for Memorial Day)

Green and Orange (for St. Patrick’s Day)

White, Silver and Pink (for Easter)

Black, White and Gold (for a casino party)

Pink, Peach, White, and Gold (for a Baby Shower)

The easiest way to hang your balloon garland is to thread string or fishing line through one of the empty holes, creating a large loop. Then hook the loop to a command hook, press a pin, or use tape. Once it’s attached in 2-3 places you can adjust some of the balloons to create more movement. I usually like all the huge round balloons in front so they can be seen.

UPDATED 10/9: I received some questions about how far in advance you can inflate the balloons. You can inflate them 1-2 days in advance and leave the garland inside until your party (the heat will shrink them). Many balloons stay inflated much longer, but this is how they look best!

If you’re looking for inspiration, here are some of my favorite balloon garlands from the past few years!

How long does a balloon garland last?

A balloon garland can usually last for several days if you take good care of it. It is best to store the garland flat in a cool, dry place; If not stored properly, balloons will burst.

How long a balloon garland will last depends on how many balloons are used and what color they are. Also, for best results, it is recommended that you make the garland at least 12″ longer than where it will be hung to allow for weighting of the ends. If the garland is too short, balloons will pop and the garland will fall.

Do you need helium for balloon arches?

Balloon garlands don’t usually require helium to stay in place and look good. These types of balloon decorations can be made at home and will last for several days with good care. Balloon arches are best for one-time use or short-term display, but balloon garlands are great for both situations and more.

Balloons last long Please excuse the less than perfect appearance of this chapter: we are in the midst of a major overhaul of the guide and wanted to get the information online and available as soon as possible. This chapter will soon be edited and polished by the staff at BHQ. Thank you for your patience. — PRE-INFLATING PLASTIC BAGS PREVENTING BALLOONS FROM FROSTING OVER, KEEPING TRANSPARENT BALLOONS GLOSSY/SHIELD SON OF A RIFLE/ARMOR – ALL FOLIAGE SEALER BALLOON JUICE HAIRSPRAY OTHER HI FLOAT Hi-Float and Super Hi-Float INJECT TO CLIP OR NOT TO CLIP, THAT’S THE QUESTION, I GOT SUCMED! PRE-TREATMENT OF DEFLATED BALLOONS PRE-TREATMENT OF INFLATED BALLOONS THE NEED FOR HI-FLOAT SPEED / COST SELLING TECHNIQUES HI-FLOAT IN DECOR HI-FLOAT ON THE OUTSIDE OF METAL BALLOONS HI-FLOAT AND GEO BLOSSOMS HI-FLOATING 260’S HI-FLOAT AND ZURATE-PSTIP MAXIMIZING FLOAT TIME ARTISTIC APPLICATIONS OF HI FLOAT — Note:

Some of the following comments involve amounts of money in the imaginary unit called “C-Shells”. These units are used to avoid any indication of illegal price fixing in the balloon industry. PRE-INFLATION We pre-inflate to expand the balloon for many reasons. Pearlescent balloons paired with prints are invariably smaller and odder shaped, especially when using the same size balloons (both 11 inches). By pre-inflation with air, they approach the same size. They are also a little softer to tie and appear a little softer once inflated so there is a little room for expansion. We pre-inflate all 3ft balloons when we receive our inventory to ensure there are no defects as we do not normally carry large inventory of this size. Sometimes when we’re down to a 16″, an 11″ can be expanded by inflating it with air to get pretty close to the 16″ size. Most of the time we pre-inflate the balloons the night before to get extra helium to keep that going they’ll be at 11″ the next day when we need them. The trick to assembling the arrangements is to hold the balloons a little closer than usual to compensate for the shrinkage that will occur. We’ll pre-stretch everything now. When If there is a defect it will be caught before Hi-Float and helium are wasted and relaxing the latex will prevent ruptures Over/Under sizing? Use your judgment A balloon should never be inflated to the point where a a few degrees warmer will pop it. That’s over-inflated to begin with. An 11″ balloon inflated to 11″ at room temperature (70 – 75 F) should be able to withstand 90 – 95 F without too p bibs. because it should stretch to about 12.5 inches or more before it bursts. Try measuring your balloons to see if your idea of ​​an 11 inch fully inflated balloon is really 11 inches Clarity is to place e inflated items in a clear plastic bag. When selling outdoors, I would put filled balloons in clear bags, twisting them tightly to fit snugly over the balloon, and also tying a large bow on the plastic bag.

Whenever you inflate a balloon you immediately subject it to oxidation, that’s just a fact of atmospheric physics. I do balloon deliveries with rounds and non-rounds. The best, quickest, and cheapest cure is a plastic bag, 55 gallon barrel liners are my favorites. Find one large enough to hold your entire supply and stuff it in, tying with a piece of curling ribbon. Shortly before delivery, take everything out of the bag, shake it up where necessary and fix it and delight with your product.

If you are interested in buying very large plastic balloon bags, you should check this source:

The Rainbow Rapper CO.

8389 Mayfield Rd. Ste.

130 Chesterland, Ohio 44026

1-800-449-8806 or (216) 729-4644

I just ordered them and I like them, they even sell them in three sizes for $25.00 per roll, plus shipping: Medium: 38″ wide x 50″ long (holds seven or ten 11″ balloons) (140 bags per roll)

Large: 38″ wide x 70″ long (holds ten to fifteen 11″ balloons) (100 bags per roll)

Extra Large: 38″ wide x 90″ long (holds twenty to twenty-five 11″ balloons) (78 bags per roll) I spoke to Keith Redfern who owns this company. They are a 15 year old Cleveland balloon company that has designed These bags specially designed for the balloon industry I have always had trouble finding anything larger than the standard bin liner for my balloons and if these are as good as they claim these bags will be of great help to those of us who deliver many bouquets and/or decorate with pre-inflated latex Bags are high-density poly, anti-static (!) and vented (hallelujah!) Call Keith and he’ll send you some samples!

The rainbow rapper CO. 8389 Mayfield Rd. Ste. 130 Chesterland, Ohio 44026 1-800-449-8806 or (216)729-4644 I just ordered these and I like them, they even sell them in three sizes for $25.00 a roll plus shipping: I have the Rainbowrappers -Used bags for everything from delivering bouquets of flowers to transporting bows of pearl necklaces and have found them to be WONDERFUL.

We source our large bags from Viking Paper Products. Our bags are “see through” and about 72″x48″ and cost us about 15-20 cents each.

We use 55 gallon clear drum liners (garbage bags) which we get wholesale for $10 per box (60 per box). It’s great to be able to see all the colored balloons in the bag and it also keeps them from oxidizing!

A clown friend uses a very large (trash can-sized) mylar bag to carry her balloons. It’s decorated with balloons and confetti, just perfect for a celebration! She said they are available at most Hallmark stores. They are durable and attractive.

When I fill balloons, I treat the outside of the balloon and then put a clear flower bag over the balloon after it’s decorated. Then I gather the top of the bag and close it with a ruffle to decorate. This serves two purposes: it’s easier to carry, and it keeps the balloon fresher for much longer. OXIDATION PREVENTION BAGS The name of the company that sells “All Size Bags” is Associated Bag. The phone number is 800-926-6100. The bag I use to transport large balloons is 22-3-14. The size is 36 x 28 x 60. The cost is $62.00 for a box of 100. Anyone looking for a nice bag to wrap their balloon fills in? Order no. 28-3-556, the size is 26 x 32. It usually needs to be cut off at the top. The box crowd. is 500 and the price is $62.00. They also carry bags that are good for delivering balloon bouquets. BUT I have found that Ace Hardware carries 55 gallons. clear pouch, which is less expensive and can be purchased in smaller quantities. ($11.49 for a box of 60) Just wanted to add one more thing about storage pouches. The mattress bags are great, but for cheap bags, we buy the Christmas tree bags at about 59 cents each. They’re not that heavy duty, but they’re huge and do the job very well. We have used each of them many, many times. We also like the fact that they’re white and not clear, as that probably helps stop fading or oxidation. We are fortunate to have a discount store “The Christmas Tree Shops” close by, otherwise these would certainly be well over a dollar or two. I work in a shop that often supplies large bundles of balloons, usually helium bouquets, but the same principle should apply. The local grocery stores do a lot of recycling. The materials to be recycled, plastic or aluminum, are placed in large boxes with plastic bags. These liners are HUGE! I’ve personally been able to stuff over 3 dozen 11″ latex balloons into one of them and then tie the neck for delivery on a windy day. I would suggest you check your local recycling centers to see if they have these liners. we call them barge liners. A box of 100 is only $22 here, or about a quarter a piece. They are strong and durable which makes them reusable. How you transport the filled bags is your own problem. 😉 Seriously, a full bag is about 3’x3.5’x6′, so you should be able to cram a few hundred inflated 260s into each. If you have a pickup truck, simply stack the bags in the back and tie a light tarp over them. Just put them on. Don’t stack them on top of the chainsaw. I make my balloons all the time the day before. I found LARGE clear bags that hold about 75 inflated balloons. I tested them in my van in hot humid weather for several weeks and was SHOCKED they still looked great!! I can look up the manufacturer’s name if anyone needs it. Only problem is you buy a whole box have to. (50 bags) We, too, do a lot of our air-filled work a day or two in advance. We pack them in big plastic bags and they’re ready to go. Graham Rouse once suggested I buy large U-Haul mattress bags to serve as really large mounts for sculptures etc. They work great – thick, strong, and come in a variety of sizes (double, queen, king, etc.). We have a U-Haul dealer just around the corner. Is there a suitable way to transport inflated balloons without having problems with static electricity from the plastic bags? What’s the problem with static? Try spraying the anti-static protection inside the bag. I also like to use this for our ribbons. More than half the time, customers will ask, “What are you doing?” Then you tell them that customer service is what sets you apart. Try it! They appreciate it by coming back again and again!! I often pre-inflate my air-filled items. I did it up to 5 days before the event. When the arrangements are finished, I always put them in large mattress bags. This keeps them from oxidizing and it’s also a great way to transport them from place to place. I get my mattress bags from the packing/shipping company. They are thick and strong and will last a long time with a little care. Even after Christmas, when the sale is on, I buy the bags for Christmas trees. These are very thin but can be used once or twice and the price makes them disposable. Early inflation is not a problem as long as you store the balloons in bags. Get some mattress cover bags from somewhere like U-Haul or Ryder. We’ve done topiary up to 3 weeks in advance with no problem. The only thing we’re doing differently further out is sizing them a bit larger to allow for shrinkage. This is exactly why we LOVE air-filled stuff! I wouldn’t hesitate to save your air filled topiary for later decorating. As long as you put them in plastic to avoid excessive oxidation. In April I did all the decoration for our gala event. We started the air-filled sculptures on Tuesday, bagged them and were lucky enough to be able to use someone’s empty house for storage. We had 3 rooms FULL of inflated, wrapped balloons and used a van to transport them to the event. All the balloons dressed up beautifully, no problems. We used many satin balloons which don’t show the oxidation as much as the regular balloons, but we also used 5 gross clear balloons and they held up beautifully. Pack helium balloons (especially if the float is not dry) just before the delivery time. I learned this lesson the hard way a few years ago when I figured I was getting ahead of the game by making the helium and bagging them the night before. Out of 100 balloons, maybe 10 floated! Now I always make my helium balloons on the day of an event, even if that means getting up at 5:30am just to make sure they’re nice and fresh and full size! AVOIDING BALLOONS WITH FREEDOM Preserving Inflated Balloons: Products Are there balloons that don’t fog up?

no All latex balloons are made of latex and the properties are the same… latex oxidizes, period! However, you can also apply a chemical to the balloon surface to extend clarity by weeks.

no All latex balloons are made of latex and the properties are the same… latex oxidizes, period! However, you can also apply a chemical to the balloon surface to extend clarity by weeks. How can I avoid my balloons having this milky coating in hot weather? I’ve used STP brand Son-of-a-Gun and it’s been fine, but it didn’t last that long. I tried a half and half combination of Hi-Float and water; However, this only grazed the balloons very badly. I also heard Armor All works too. Is there anything else I don’t know? I’ve found that if you can store the balloons out of air, perhaps in a plastic bag, oxidation is reduced. The fridge is a great place to store an inflated balloon so it keeps its shine. It’s not a great place to show them though 🙂 If you use pearlescent paints, the “fogging” won’t be as noticeable. It’s perfectly normal for balloons to “oxidize” and cloud over when exposed to air, especially when it’s warm and possibly humid! I always use the satin or pearlescent balloons so the oxidation isn’t as noticeable. We also always wrap the balloons, and do this as quickly as possible during setup, before the balloons oxidize and you can see our “handprints”. Shrinkage would also be due to the heat without air conditioning. Even sometimes with air conditioning, we only notice the oxidation because of the humidity in the room. I explain to my brides who have balloons outside or inside without air conditioning, or in this “beautiful” summer weather, that with the weather conditions our balloons will take on a “frosted” appearance so there are no surprises!! “Frosted” sure sounds better than “Cloudy,” right?? =) The “fogging” of your balloons can have several reasons. Especially too much handling. When I make pillars well in advance, I rub them on the line and put them in really big plastic bags. I can do this up to 5 days in advance and they still look brand new. KEEP CLEARS CLEAR > I’m in a dilemma called HOT and FIRE Weather vs. Diamond Clear Balloons!!! > Doing a decoration job tomorrow for a wedding with > lots of clear balloons (Qualatex Diamond Clear Flowers A Round) and the > weather is going to be HOT 39c, overcast/cloudy, stormy and humid. The > venue is air conditioned with an evaporative cooler (water cooled) which > adds more humidity. I am very concerned about clouding/oxidation of these > balloons. Balloons contain a very light powder. I have found that when I stuff a colored balloon into a clear balloon, the clarity of the balloon decreases. So I tried flushing powder out of the clear balloon, letting it dry, or blow drying it and found that the clarity increased. If you have a regular HI-FLOAT (not the new Super Hi-Float) it can be mixed with water and placed in a small round sink. After inflating the balloon, you can gently bathe it. This is best done by holding the balloon upside down and using a cup or ladle, gently pour the solution over the balloons until the entire surface is covered – hold in place until the excess of the balloon falls into the basin flows. That sounds messy, but it’s not scary as it sounds. We used a clothesline in the back of the store and put newspaper on the floor. Just like doing laundry – I used a clothespin to hold them in place. When the end of the line came, the first few were dry enough to be tied into bundles. Another option is to gently insert a pin into the balloon and then keep your neck firmly on the pin and lower it into HI-FLOAT. Remove and slowly fill with helium. After that, they need a few minutes to be dry enough to pull them together in groups. We usually do something like this in business and transportation. The pouring method dries a little faster. I’ve even used this method on large paddle balloons! They are always a hit. Yes, we have also turned our clear balloons inside out, rinsed, dried and used them (with Super Hi-Float inside, sometimes with Hi-Float outside) for various jobs where we wanted the glossy clear effect. However, this technique is time consuming and floating outside the balloon can get quite messy and drying is a challenge when you have a very busy schedule. We used a blow dryer on low setting – again too time consuming for a big job. It is most effective for a focal point grouping or array, or an inflated balloon. We also use Klearkote which does a pretty good job – I like it better than Balloon Shine etc. We’ve also used clear acrylic waxes like Future when we made 50 or more filled balloons for the quick sale – Valentine’s Day, Sweetest Day. For best results for a clear balloon, mix regular Hi-Float (not Super Hi-Float) with water at a 1:1 ratio. Rinse the balloon (both sides) and dry completely. Dip it in the mixture and use a straw to remove the excess from the balloon. Fill the balloon up with air (or use nitrogen) and it will be almost dry when inflated. If it doesn’t, use a blow dryer on cool to dry completely. This is a pain in the ass….if you have a lot of balloons to deal with, but if its just a few you will love it because they are really crystal clear and will stay that way for quite a while. BALLOON SHINE/SHIELD Balloon Shine and Balloon Shield I have a sample bottle of a product called Balloon Shine from Maxim and it works pretty well, but you have to buff every balloon you spray it on.

Balloon Shine and Balloon Shield (by Maxim, Inc.). Also if you can do your balloons in the conditioner along with applying the Shine or Shield it will help.

I bought Balloon Shine from my local balloon company. However, STP worked just as well as Balloon Shine.

I used to have a car wash and know a lot about car chemicals. Balloon Shine looks, smells and behaves like STP. Balloon Shine also makes my tires look amazing! So do the math.

Balloon Shine is a product specifically designed for balloons, but unfortunately the results are similar to Armor All.

We’ve used Balloon Shine, and while it’s good for a short time, we’ve had our best results by using the original “Hi-Float” formula to seal the finish. We got a can of the same spray you’re talking about. It was gifted to us by Alex Shephard from Mexico. I’m also not sure what it’s called because I don’t speak a word of Spanish. Maybe someone on this list can give you their phone number or check in your QBN director at Mexico. He is a CBA and a great balloon artist and teacher. I seem to remember Alex telling us that this is a silicone based product and as such it has very little if any “smell”. It leaves a very smooth surface for the balloons, but the 4 or 5 balloons we sprayed into our sculpture stayed unoxidized the entire 4 days. Since this product was provided to us for testing, I don’t know what the price of it is. You can spray them with Balloon Shine (available from the best balloon suppliers), but a much cheaper alternative is dash protector spray like Wynnes Dash, available at your local supermarket or garage. I’ve used balloon shine on 260s a few times and it definitely makes them last a lot longer. I’ve found the best way to apply it is before inflating the balloon. I spray a small amount into the bag of balloons, then rub them around until they’re all coated. This makes a small balloon shine. The balloons are very slippery and tying the knot and twisting is a bit tricky but I got used to it quickly. I find that when I am making huge batches of balloons to be delivered (e.g. as invitations etc) they can be made a few days in advance and still look very fresh on the day of delivery. It all takes a lot less time, makes less mess, is cheaper, and leaves the balloons shinier than using Hi-Float in the 260. (IMHO) What do you use for air sculptures so they don’t oxidize? Balloon Shine is just way too time consuming. SON OF A GUN/ARMOR-ALL Substitutions: Automotive Products STP is a water-based automotive product to add shine to rubber, vinyl, plastic and finished leather. Most people use it for the “wet tire” look. Most importantly, STP is WATER based. Some of these applications are petroleum based and eat through latex very quickly.

I don’t know if Armor All is water based or not.

The Son of a Gun STP brand can be used on the outside of a latex balloon (instead of Hi-Float) to prevent the chalky oxidation that results from long exposure to air. However, I doubt it has any of Hi-Float’s helium diffusion rate altering properties. Knowing how slippery “Son of a Gun” makes car seats, it may not have practical application for twisted sculptures.

Only use Armor All after the Loon is inflated and the figure is ready. I had hearts and blooms that stayed shiny at the mall for more than 3 weeks after treatment.

Larger cities have suppliers of car wash chemicals. You will have a version of STP in a gallon jug. Ask for a water-based product. The company gets it for a fraction of the cost.

I do not recommend using STP or any other car product. They feel oily and take time to apply. There’s a product called Balloon Shine that does the same thing (delay oxidation), but again, the time factor is too much for me. “Son of a Gun”. Spray onto a lint-free cloth, then wipe the outside of your balloon completely! It also keeps your clear balloons from “fogging up”! Great stuff! Do not spray directly onto the balloon. Also, use it on printed balloons if you can; Turn them inside out because if you polish them, the printed ink will smudge! You can also just buy this at a store like Wal-Mart. Much luck!!! I heard you could use “Son of a Gun” which is a dashboard cleaner. But also heard NOT to use “Armor-All”, I think it’s slowly eating the balloon or something. Different brands do different things. Armor-all works okay, but honestly, unless you need something on display for more than a day, it’s a royal pain. If you’re using pearlescent paints, the “fogging” won’t be as obvious either. You can use Armor All Spray to prevent oxidation, but do not spray directly on the balloon. It goes a long way if you spray a cloth and rub it over the balloon. Cotton diapers are great for this. > Is there any way to prevent the creation from getting so dusty? I find that after about 4 hours the color of the sculpture no longer shows through because of > all the dust on the outside. I did an outdoor gig once and I had examples hanging behind me. The black balloons > looked like they were grey! Actually the problem is oxidation and not dust. Spraying STP Son Of a Gun or Balloon Shine on each balloon and then wiping dry (polishing) works well but is time consuming. Oddly enough, these products attract dust (but it’s not really visible) and small dust particles can be sharp and slightly increase your poppage rate. But if you want your black balloons to stay black and your clear balloons to stay clear, you absolutely must polish them. Regarding Son of a Gun. . . . I adopted this technique from Saul at Conwin Carbonics. . . In an area where people won’t be walking (they might slip), we cover the floor in plastic and just spray the hell out of our sculptures etc until they drip. We let the sculpture sit there or leave the plastic below until it stops dripping and VOILA!!!!! We don’t rub. . . I don’t know if you would need to do that for centerpieces, but for everything else just drain it. As long as you’ve sprayed it on thoroughly, it’s beautiful. The stuff is so cheap at K-mart or Pic’n’Save that it’s worth using more and saving time and labor. We performed this technique once on our 10′ palm trees that needed to be outside and DIRECTLY IN THE SUN for 3 days while temperatures were in the 90’s plus and VOILA! They were absolutely beautiful! When the job was slammed, not all of the little balloons (they were all goldenrod, btw) were popped up until a week later, and YES, they were still beautiful. The only downside to this technique is that (when the job is done) you have to spend a little time cleaning your pole and base with Windex or something to reduce the slippery effect. Foliage Sealer There is also another product that used to be called Glitter Glue but is now called Foliage Sealer. It’s from Design Master and comes with a very bright yellow label. The label has the words “formerly Glitter Glue” in VERY small print on the bottom. Glitter Glue used to be used constantly by balloon artists, but until Pat Skistimas informed us that Design Master had merely changed their name, we thought they had stopped making them. The cost of this product is approximately the same as a can of Design Master paint. This product is excellent for all balloons EXCEPT clear. It tends to leave a slight haze on the clear balloons. It even picks up oxidized balloons and makes them shiny again!! When you spray it on for the first time, it will be a little cloudy, very sticky and sticky. Once dry, however, it shines like a new balloon and is no more sticky than Armor-All or STP. Another downside is that it’s expensive, and being an aerosol it has the inevitable “fragrance” 🙂 associated with most aerosols, so you’ll need to spray it in a well-ventilated area. We still prefer Balloon Shine for our daily bouquet deliveries, but we always stock a good supply of Design Master Foliage Sealer for sculpting work. We’ve also never tried it on helium-filled balloons, so we don’t know if it adds weight to them or not. We’ve only used it on air-filled designs. Works perfectly!! If you can find it, try it… you’ll love it! The Inspireworks tapes suggest glitter glue. Design Master’s Foliage Sealer (formerly Glitter Glue). It’s the same product, they changed the name. Glitter Glue is made by Design Master but is now called Foliage Sealer and comes with a very bright yellow sticker. At the bottom of the label it says “Formerly Glitter Glue” in very small print. Pat and Jim Skistimas introduced us to this fine product at IBAC two years ago and we have thanked them ever since. Although expensive, this is a great treatment when it is absolutely necessary that your balloons last and remain unoxidized. Despite its name (Glitter GLUE) and although it is quite sticky when first applied, it seems to have NO residual stickiness after drying. Another great feature of this product is that it even restores the shine to balloons that are already oxidized!!! YES, REALLY!!! Wir hatten noch keine Gelegenheit, dies bei mit Helium gefüllten Ballons zu verwenden, also wissen wir nicht, wie sehr es die Flugfähigkeit der Ballons beeinflussen wird. Foliage Sealer wird genauso aufgetragen, wie Sie eine Sprühfarbe verwenden würden. Es wird als Spray direkt auf die Außenseite des Ballons aufgetragen. Wenn Sie es auf eine Skulptur, Säule, einen Bogen oder eine Ballonwand auftragen, kann es aufgetragen werden, NACHDEM das Objekt fertig ist, sodass Sie nur auf die sichtbaren Teile der Ballons sprühen müssen. Auch hier haben wir dieses Produkt noch NICHT an einem mit Helium gefüllten Ballon, Bogen usw. getestet und wissen nicht, ob die Gegenstände dadurch zu schwer zum Fliegen werden. Ich würde mich freuen, von jemandem zu hören, der das hat. Jeder, der Design Master-Farben trägt, würde wahrscheinlich dieses Produkt tragen. Versuchen Sie es zuerst bei Ihrem Blumengroßhändler, und wenn Sie kein Glück haben, versuchen Sie es in Kunsthandwerksläden. Nun, ich schätze, wir Hinterwäldler hier draußen in Kansas sind nicht so abgehoben, wie einige von euch vielleicht denken. Wir verwenden Glitzerspray seit einigen Jahren. Wir kaufen es entweder bei einem Blumengroßhändler oder in einer günstigeren Version, die in Walmart-Läden genauso gut funktioniert. Es funktioniert sehr gut bei mit Helium gefüllten Ballons und kann nicht erkennen, dass es die Flugzeiten erheblich beeinflusst. Bei Oxidationsproblemen verwende ich Design Masters Foliage Sealer … es kommt in einer weißen und einer gelben Dose. Ich kaufe es in einem örtlichen Bastelladen. It works great! Im vergangenen Sommer packten mein Mann und ich den Van für eine Hochzeit, und das erste, was wir in den Van luden, war die 4-Fuß-Herzskulptur, die bereits fertig war. Er ließ die Hintertür offen, während er den Van belud, und in weniger als 10 Minuten war die Herzskulptur oxidiert. Zum Glück habe ich immer eine Dose Foliage Sealer im Van … es hat (und wirkt) Wunder gewirkt! Wir haben eine Kombination aus Original-Hi-Float verwendet, es trocknen lassen und dann Design Master Floral Spray (ehemals Glitter Glue) darüber gesprüht. Diese Projekte waren keinem direkten Sonnenlicht ausgesetzt und die meisten Ballons waren rund, aber dieses Verfahren war ziemlich erfolgreich, um sowohl neue als auch oxidierte Ballons abzudichten. Im Freien haben wir nichts ausprobiert, das so lange gehalten hat wie Naturlatex. BALLOON JUICE Auch South Bay Balloons (ehemals Teil von All American aus Santa Ana, CA) in der Gegend von San Jose, CA, hat etwas namens “Balloon Juice”, das wirklich gut funktioniert. Ihre Nummer ist (408) 486-9820. HAARSPRAY Haarspray auf der Außenseite des Ballons sorgt für eine lange Lebensdauer, aber berühren Sie es nicht, sonst schrumpft es. Haarspray hilft tatsächlich, die Luft länger zu halten, indem es den Ballon versiegelt. Nein, es macht es nicht steif. SONSTIGES Sprühen Sie Ihre Kreation mit Silikongleitmittel ein. In den meisten Wal-Mart-Läden in der Autoabteilung zu finden. Hält Ihre Ballons zehnmal länger hell. Ich beschichte meine Ballons immer nach dem Aufblasen. Ich habe nie versucht, sie vor der Inflation zu beschichten. Ich weiß, dass es schwieriger wäre zu binden, weil das Zeug rutschig ist. Ich verkaufe Pfauenpunschkugeln auf Festivals, und wenn sie kreidig werden, sprühe ich sie ein. Ich habe das Zeug nie für 260er verwendet, aber Latex ist ähnlich und sollte gleich reagieren. Giftig? Habe niemals drüber nachgedacht. Besser prüfen, nur um sicherzugehen. Wir haben jede Marke von Gummibehandlungen ausprobiert und festgestellt, dass “2001” die beste ist! Wir bekommen es in unserem Autohaus. Wir kaufen die große Flasche und füllen sie in eine kleinere Sprühflasche. Setzen Sie es auf, wenn Sie die Ballons zum ersten Mal aufblasen, um die besten Ergebnisse zu erzielen. Aus einem Newsletter aus dem Gebiet von Fredericksburg VA kopiert:

„Hallo, ich bin POP-O der Clown … Das Formen von Luftballons war schon immer eines meiner Lieblingshandwerke, aber ich hatte das Gefühl, dass sie nicht so lange halten, wie sie sollten, also beschloss ich, etwas dagegen zu tun und entdeckte einen Weg die Ballons mit einer klaren, ungiftigen Beschichtung zu konservieren, die die Ballons versiegelt und ihnen für Wochen oder sogar Monate das glänzende, gerade aufgeblasene Aussehen verleiht.

Seitdem kann ich Menschen mit farbenfrohen, langlebigen Ballonskulpturen, Ladendisplays und unvergesslichen Partydekorationen aller Art beliefern. POP-O hat das Geheimnis dieses ballonkonservierenden Prozesses für alle Interessierten aufgeschrieben, um Ihr Exemplar zu erhalten, senden Sie $ 4,50 für die Broschüre an:

POP-O der Clown, Postfach 607, Locust Grove, VA 22508

(540) 972-0089 HI FLOAT Hi-Float und Super Hi-Float Hi-Float: ist ein gummiartiges, klebstoffartiges Harz, das Sie auf Latexballons auftragen, damit sie das Helium länger halten können. Sobald es trocknet, bildet es eine kunststoffähnliche Beschichtung, die die Lebensdauer eines Ballons um viele weitere Stunden verlängert, bevor er “abfällt”.

: ist ein gummiartiges, klebstoffartiges Harz, das Sie auf Latexballons auftragen, damit sie das Helium länger halten können. Sobald es trocknet, bildet es eine kunststoffähnliche Beschichtung, die die Lebensdauer eines Ballons um viele weitere Stunden verlängert, bevor er “abfällt”. Super Hi-Float: ist eine flüssige Substanz, die dazu bestimmt ist, in Heliumballons zu gelangen, damit sie länger schweben. Es kann ein wenig chaotisch sein. Before you insert the gel into the balloon make sure that you remove all of the air from the balloon first (If you don’t then the gel will be forced back out of the balloon). Don’t use very much Super Hi-Float either because all you need is enough gel to give the balloon a thin layer of protection. The gel takes about 30 minutes to dry. Once dry you’ve got a balloon that will stay inflated for months.

: is a liquid substance that is designed to go inside helium-balloons to make them float longer. It can be a little messy. Before you insert the gel into the balloon make sure that you remove all of the air from the balloon first (If you don’t then the gel will be forced back out of the balloon). Don’t use very much Super Hi-Float either because all you need is enough gel to give the balloon a thin layer of protection. The gel takes about 30 minutes to dry. Once dry you’ve got a balloon that will stay inflated for months. “Hi-Float and Super HF are non-toxic, non-irritating, non-corrosive, non-flammable, and biodegradable. They are very similar to the adhesive found on the back of postage stamps.” HI-FLOAT has a free design book they will send out or one of your suppliers may have copies in house for their clients. There is a lot of info in this little blue book!!! Here is their phone and snail mail info: HI-FLOAT

13025 Middletown Industrial Blvd, Louisville, KY 40223

Phone: 1-800-57FLOAT or 502-244-6873

fax: 502 245 9711

SQUIRTING IT IN One thing, if you have never used hifloat, make sure you have the end of the nozzle ALL the way into the balloon body. Don’t squirt it in the neck; this is some of the yuckiest stuff you can work with. Keep it off your hands, inflator and out of the neck. TO CLIP OR NOT TO CLIP, THAT IS THE QUESTION Hello. My name is Don Burchette and I invented Hi-Float and Super Hi-Float. Regarding the mention of how much Super Hi-float to add to your balloons: If you add the full recommended amount, an 11-inch balloon should float at least 4 days indoors in hot summer weather and 10 days in cold weather. The difference is due mostly to humidity. If you add less Hi-Float than recommended, the balloons will float less time than the maximum. In other words, to get the maximum floating life possible any time of the year, add the full recommended amount. You may find that in the winter, using half of the recommended amount gives an adequate float life, but in the summer this would cause complaints due to reduced float life. To be safe, I generally recommend you always use the full recommended amount of Super Hi-Float. That way if something else is not quite right (temperature, humidity, balloons not fully inflated, etc.) you still get a long float life. However, if I were decorating an event to be held the same day, I might use half of the recommended amount of Hi-Float since it may not be necessary for the balloons to float a long time. Although, some decorators have told me they still treat the balloons fully since many balloons get taken home by the guests. If you have any other questions about Hi-Float please feel free to call our toll-free number 1-800-57FLOAT. Don Burchette Always use a Hi-Float clip on your pump stem. It helps to get a more precise measure of Hi-Float, without overdoing it. The hi float people will probably tear their hair out (after they get the hi float stripped off), but we DO NOT use their clips — simply pump in enough to coat the inside of the balloon — about the size of a new pencil eraser tip in an 11″ balloon. We also feel that it’s a bit faster to treat the balloons without the restricter clips. I agree with the “PENCIL-ERASER” amount, if not even using a tad less does fine for 11-inch Qualatex Jewel-Tones. Plus float time is still excellent. Best advice to anyone new to Super Hi-Float….Experiment with the product! If your balloons look and act “drunk,” then reduce the amount you use. Also I personally recommend that you “rub it in,” and remember to coat the entire inside surface of the balloon, even going as far as coating it into the neck. I agree with several others regarding how much hi-float to use. In the beginning I followed the guidelines religiously but was having trouble with some balloons not floating upright. After experimenting I concluded that if I used the next size clip down from the recommended one I got great results (I use the white clip for all my 11″). My balloons float perfectly, the up time is anywhere from 3-5-7 days consistently. Try some experimenting on your own. It’s also important to spread the hi-float as evenly as possible. Try using less hi float. I never use the amount that the instructions dictate. Try using the clip for the next smallest size.(e.g. – use the 9′ clip for 11′ latex) Also, it is very important that you secure the ribbon down to a weight. Don’t just let the balloons float up to the ceiling because they will invariably wind up floating sideways. This causes wet hi float to pool on one side of the balloon as opposed to pooling at the neck. I have also found that cutting down on the amount of super hi float helps especially outdoors. I use the white clip most of the time now for 11″. I’VE BEEN SLIMED! The largest drawback to Hi-Float, is if the balloon pops during inflation-you get slimed, and you’ll find parts of balloons stuck to every conceivable surface around. It’s water soluble though, and doesn’t leave a stain. If a balloon pops and throws hi float around the room, you will not be welcome at that event site again. You could inflate your balloons early enough for the balloons to dry, but I think this is a waste of time and expense of the hi float. It’s a bit time and space consuming, but I do it all the time. I blow duplets up and use spring clamps and let the hifloat dry. I also use a ribbon with weights on each end over the duplet. I make the ribbons different lengths, so that the balloons will have air circulating all around it. I’ve learned that if I do any balloons with high float in them I make sure I blow them up (treated with super high float of course) a couple hours before the event so the hi float has time to dry inside before actually using. That way if they do possibly pop, no ooze. To answer your second question, balloons that are put in bags before the HI- FLOAT dries will loose air because the HI-FLOAT cannot dry without air circulating around the balloons, and the HI-FLOAT barrier cannot hold in the helium until it is dry. PRE-TREATING UN-INFLATED BALLOONS I often apply Super Hi-Float ahead of time for parties, holidays, etc. Just place them in a plastic bag to limit the amount of air they are exposed to… A zip-lock bag, with the air pressed out of it, keeps the high float fresh for weeks. I’ve experienced no problems with the balloons.

Hi-float the balloons, “squish” them, and cover them with plastic wrap to keep out the air. You then have to re-squish (to evenly distribute the Hi-float on the balloon interior) before inflating.

Pre-treating and storing without inflating… I have simply treated with Hi-float, grouped the balloons (6-12), placed rubber bands around them, placed upright in an airtight container and refrigerated. They can be done weeks ahead of time this way.

Just Hi-Float your balloons, and use a rubber band to tie 10 or so together, then store them with the neck up to minimize the hi float in the neck. When you’re ready to inflate them, rub the balloon so the Hi-Float is redistributed within. We use paper clips (remember them?) to hang 3 or more groups of balloons together from some wire shelving. Some people have done this, and then refrigerated them for up to 30 days!!! Just remember to let the balloons warm up to room temp before inflating!

I have had no trouble putting balloons with Hi-Float into the refrigerator on Monday for the following weekend. Just be sure to tightly bind the necks. I have also found that if you fill the balloons with Hi-Float, secure them with a “rubberband” and do not put them in the refrigerator for a day or two, they really get very large when you inflate them. (This I learned years ago by accident.) I put hi-float in several days in advance. I even have some in the freezer that are a few months old. I put all the hi-floated balloons in tupperware or similar sealed plastic containers. It keeps them from drying out. You can get away using only half the recommended amount of Super Hi Float. We learned that you don’t need to put “pre-gooped” Hi Float balloons in the refrigerator if it’s only for a day or two. The secret is to simply put that rubber band tight around the necks…to keep the air out. The other answer to your question is you can hifloat ahead of time by squirting in the goop, then bunch the balloons together and secure with a rubber band at the top, put them in the fridge; the goop will not dry on you if the rubber band prevents air from getting to the goop. Before you inflate the balloon squeeze to hifloat around to get good distribution around the inside, then inflate. Bruce Walden taught this in one of his classes, so I high float and refrigerate all the time. If I need the balloons before they reach room temperature, I put them in the microwave. Hi-floating in advance can be a great convenience, and many decorators do it. The balloons are hi floated a day or two before the event. After inserting the hi float & squishing it around the inside of the bulb – being careful not to get any into the neck area – stack the balloons by putting your thumb into the the rounded area so that there’s not much room for air, then place them all into a ziploc bag with the rounded balloon base at the bottom and all the necks upright. No need to seal or refrigerate unless you’re really doing them far in advance. Just fold over and keep upright so that the hi float doesn’t liquify and get into the neck area of the balloons. Regarding the preparation of latex balloons with a booster solution, we bundle ours in groups of 7-10, tie them with left-over curling ribbon scraps, stand them in zip lock bags and store them. If the job or delivery is more than three weeks in the future, we’ll refrigerate, but shelves in the basement work well in our climate. On occasions that we have needed to hi-float in advance we have had problems blowing the balloons up with the split second duel sizer. We stored them with the necks up, and the necks seem to stick shut just enough that it causes a problem with the duel sizer. Having to resort to the other inflator slowed us considerably. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Insert the highfloat nozzle deep into the balloon’s body, to pump it in, then wipe its nose off inside, by pinching it clean. When storing pre-hifloated latex for use at a later time, we bunch the hifloated latex together with a piece of left-over ribbon and place in a zip-lock bag. This air tight storage makes it possible to prep balloons ahead of the time. I have had no trouble putting balloons with Hi-Float into the refrigerator on Monday for the following weekend. Just be sure to tightly bind the necks. At IBAC, Christopher Horn gave a great suggestion about cutting off the neck of an old or broken balloon and then just using the rolled top of the balloon as a rubberband. It is so obvious, but something I never thought of before…..now all my Hi-Floated balloons are secured with these “rubberbands.” Be sure to take them out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before inflating them to let them get to room temp. I have also found that if you fill the balloons with Hi-Float, secure them with a “rubberband” and do not put them in the refrigerator for a day or two. They really get very large when you inflate them. (This I learned years ago by accident.) PRE-TREATING INFLATED BALLOONS The only advance preparation process recommended in “The Hi-Float Book” is referred to as “the dry method,” abbreviated as follows: Treat the balloons on the inside with Hi-Float. Inflate and seal with clips. The next day, remove the clips and add helium as necessary. Note: It is important to keep Hi-Float out of the stem of the balloon so that helium may be added the next day to fully inflate the balloon. This technique was developed so that customers could receive treated balloons without the risk of being “slimed” if a balloon popped. It may also be useful for preparation of balloons to be used in a spiral arch or other design with balloons spaced so closely that the Hi-Float cannot quickly dry. Because Hi-Float must DRY to form the helium barrier coating, the balloons must be inflated while the Hi-Float is wet inside. Check out the “dry method” on page 4 in the HI-FLOAT book: Step 1: At the end of the day treat the balloons for the next days deliveries or decorating jobs with the recommended amount of HI-FLOAT. Inflate the balloons with helium and seal with plastic clips or discs. Step 2: Allow the balloons to dry overnight. In the morning remove the clips and give the balloons an extra shot of helium to regain their full size. Reseal the balloons. This will result in a fully inflated balloon coated with HI-FLOAT that is completely dry. The added advantage is that if a balloon accidentally pops there is no mess. When using the “dry method,” it is important to keep Hi-Float out of the stem of the balloon so that helium may be added the next day to fully inflate the balloon. THE NECESSITY OF HI-FLOAT What a wonderful product! At the back of our showroom where we do all the inflating of deliveries, there is a sign on the wall for all staff AND CUSTOMERS to see. “Hi-Float is MANDATORY for every delivery arrangement”. Some customers will ask, “What is HI-Float?” Before you know it, they want to pay the extra, even though their balloons are for little Jodi’s birthday party. This impresses the other mothers with the float time of that balloon Lisa brought home from little Jodi’s birthday party. “How come Lisa’s birthday balloons didn’t float for 5 days?” Picture this; A typical hospital stay for a new baby is now 3-4 days. Most bouquets of balloons are ordered and delivered within the first 2 days. Visitors, the hospital staff, the proud father etc, that come on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5….. notice that one particular arrangement lasted throughout, while other balloons “died” and were taken away by the nurses. Make sure your business name and number is easy to read on that balloon delivery arrangement! Our competitors actually try to argue with us that it is not worth using. I don’t argue of course…. let ’em suffer the consequences! I agree that high float is as necessary as ribbon, helium and balloons for our business. It costs @ 15 cents for an 11 inch balloon & @ 5 cents for helium for that balloon (depending, of course, on where and how much you pay, I am merely using my statistics). To spend your time and effort to make your creation (no matter how small or large) to last for just one day has ABSOLUTELY NO comparison value when you add @ 15 more cents for super high float or 11 cents for high float and it lasts for at least a week. I’ve actually had them last much longer. Truly, a customer ran in to me on Dec. 20, 97. I did ballons for her daughter’s B-day Nov. 21, 97. She was so excited and raved to everyone around, that the balloons were still up and they should use me, if they ever needed balloons. I handed out several cards by request. I even treat my king 7’s on the outside. They stay perfectly clear and last and last! That is one of the major hesitations on potential a customer’s part, spending X amount of dollars for balloons to be gone in one day. They make comments like ‘at least flowers last for a few days’. I assure them that properly treated balloons can also. I am new to this business (3 months), but it is very clear to me that you can’t exchange word of mouth referral for any amount. That is what high float gives you, not to mention, the longer visibilty if it is in a high profile place. If something is “in someone’s face” it is on their mind. We use super hi-float in every latex balloon that leaves our shop. Period. We stand on our reputation for long-lasting balloons and have had many return customers as a result. Our company philosophy and mission statement includes a sentence stating that we will “exceed our client’s expectations”, and we feel that including boosters in our latex work has a positive effect on our overall image. The longevity issue comes into play with us on the decorating level as well as the daily delivery level when we have three or four jobs on a given day. We can be sure that the decor will last regardless of the room conditions, even if the set up takes place at 6:00am for an evening event. At a cost of less than 1.5 cents per balloon, we feel that this insurance is well worth the cost, which is passed along to the client. We do not offer the choice of “to hi-float or not to hi-float” as many of our colleagues in this area do…super hi-float is standard in our shop. After all, we are the experts and the consumer simply desires a quality product. Using SUPER HI-FLOAT gives a balloon business an edge over the competition, because you are able to provide a longer lasting product, and therefore more value for your customers’ money. Working at a local Paper Warehouse, I swear by Hi-Float and Super Hi-Float. My display and promotional balloons last up to a week, and I can attest that experimentation is the best way for balloon decorators and retailers alike to discover their potential with Super Hi-Float. Super Hi-Float provides the retailer with yet another assurance of customer satisfaction, due to the extended life of the balloons leaving the store. Many of my customers have returned to our store, simply for the fact that they were “amazed” by the float-time of my work. SPEED / COST After a short time you’ll find that you can put Super Hi- Float into balloons and inflate them in a very short time. It doesn’t cost too much either. In England it costs about 6 – 7 Pounds for a bottle full. If you have a real big job, you can always ‘treat’ the balloons far in advance with your other prep work, so the time on the actual job would be the same. Hi-floating in advance can be a great convenience, and many decorators do it. If time on the job isn’t a concern, I find it simpler to hi-float on site, especially for smaller jobs. SALES TECHNIQUES Do you sell Hi Float or keep it as a ‘trade secret’?

I use it as an add-on sale when selling balloons “to go.” I always have asked customers if they would like HI-FLOAT, tell them the benefits, and the small additional price per balloon. I think it’s a bargain at 3 C-shells per dozen balloons and customers love it.

I use it as an add-on sale when selling balloons “to go.” I always have asked customers if they would like HI-FLOAT, tell them the benefits, and the small additional price per balloon. I think it’s a bargain at 3 C-shells per dozen balloons and customers love it. I think all deliveries should be HI-FLOATed, since the longer the balloons last, the longer they will be around to remind people of your business. I like to deliver big bouquets of HI-FLOATed 16-inch balloons to office buildings. That way the recipient is less likely to take the balloons home from work (they’re too big!) and more likely to leave them on their desk. (I’m getting paid to advertise!) Let me tell you, a 16-inch with HI-FLOAT lasts a mighty long time!!!

When selling balloons with HI-FLOAT, let me recommend that you add a tag that explains that the balloons were treated. Otherwise the customer or recipient won’t know/remember and will likely develop an unrealistic impression of how long latex balloons last w/o treatment. That can come back to bite you. Ask me to tell you about the disgruntled customer I had once because of this very thing!

If someone comes into the shop for a few balloons, we sell them Hi Float as an add-on sale. Some customers want it, and some don’t see the need.

We do not offer the choice of “to hi-float or not to hi-float” as many of our colleagues in this area do… super hi-float is standard in our shop. After all, we are the experts and the consumer simply desires a quality product. HI-FLOAT IN DECOR While I totally agree that HiFloat is a great product and is very desirable in Balloon Deliveries, I want to add that it’s not as practical or necessary when decorating . In our 16 years we have have only used HiFloat once on a decorating job. Most decorating jobs are for a short period of time ( 4 to 6 hours). There would be no reason to hifloat an arch. I guess some people would argue about centerpieces, but other than that I don’t believe it is useful. Please don’t misunderstand my comments, Deliveries YES, Decorating No, but there are exceptions. I never hi-float for decorating jobs unless it is more then a one day event. A properly inflated Qualatex balloon should last a good 18 hours. I’ve done 6 weddings in a day with in a hundred mile radius and never had any trouble with the first ones going down. When balloons are hi-floated I think they are harder to decorate with (if the hi-float isn’t evenly distributed or if you put just a little too much in they don’t hang right on an arch). Normally, I don’t hifloat for party decor. I have never had a complaint re: balloons lasting even after the party is over. But, at IBAC it was mentioned to hifloat as insurance. I have a wedding to decorate for tomorrow (175 balloons). Should I hifloat in advance, or do on-site? If in advance, do I hifloat, tie necks, and place in fridge in airtight container? What works best for you?? Much of this depends on your personal preference, and how much time you have. I find that hi-floating spiral arches, etc, is a waste of time and $, as they will usually last thru the event with no problem. We usually hi- float pearl arches if time and longevity are a concern. I always hi- float the helium balloons used in centerpieces, floor bouquets, etc. , as they often get taken home, and the perception of quality is much greater if they last a long time. Ideally, we like to hi-float and preinflate whenever possible, so when we get on site the balloons are dry, and will take a lot more abuse re: handling and static. I hate cleaning hi-float off suspended ceiling and chandeliers! We always hi float everything for all events except releases. We have decorated events since 1989 and quit Hi Floating them about 6 years ago when it dawned on us that the balloons have a life expectancy that goes through the events anyway. We also found that labor costs were too high for the extra time to Hi Float. Our customers haven’t noticed the difference and have never complained. Job cost the labor and materials for Hi Floating the events and see what you have to charge to make a profit. Bouquets of balloons that go out of the shop on delivery are Hi Floated because they are gifts and that’s where the value is perceived. We include the cost of Hi Floating in the price of the bouquet. Even 3′ hot air gifts last for a week or more with the Hi Float. Hi Floating balloons to last through heat doesn’t work. I tried that outside when my boys were little for their birthday parties. The balloon latex expands in the heat or sun, but the Hi Float, which dries, does not, so as the balloon expands, the Hi Float just pops off the inside or cracks, and the value is lost. There’s no need to hi float for your party even with the heat. I have decorated in 100 degree weather and the balloons lasted the wedding and beyond. If a balloon pops and throws hi float around the room, you will not be welcome at that event site again. You could inflate your balloons early enough for the balloons to dry, but I think this is a waste of time and expense of the hi float. Regarding the balloons I did in the 100 degrees weather, I did over inflate a little. If I’m doing a job on Friday for an event on Sat, I ALWAYS hi float just in case. Now it’s easy to do this if I know how many balloons to hi-float because I can squirt them that week sometime, take bunches of 20 or so, loosely put a rubberband around the top, and loosely place them neck up in a square tupperware (or whatever) type container, in my fridge. The hi-float doesn’t dry out, I can pull out the container the day I want to inflate them, squish the stuff around a little, use my “special” downward facing inflator nozzle (from Conwin, of course), and inflate away! If I miss the count of balloons by a few, I just blow them up with no stuff inside. This works extremely well if you have 2 weddings or more on a weekend and some of the rooms are free on Fridays. You can decorate on Friday, make a quick stop to check it out on your way to the other job(s), and fix whatever needs fixing. I never hi-float balloons that only need to be up for less that 18 hours. Makes no sense. They stay up anyway. If you will be doing party decorating, don’t bother with hi float on those latex as the party usualy never lasts more than 6 hours – Reserve the hi float for those times you really need it, deliveries and decor jobs that need to last several days I agree that Hi-Float is not always necessary for decorations; if you don’t need them to last longer than 12 or so hours, then you might not want to treat the balloons. But I love the idea of treating centerpieces and other items that might be taken home by guests as favors (and attaching a business card)! That way they can enjoy them for several days after the wedding, and what a great impression that makes for your company! HI-FLOAT ON THE OUTSIDE Any time I am working on a balloon sculpture “exhibit” that I want to stay fresh for more than a day, I use the Hi-Float and water mist (half Hi-Float and half water). I keep the solution in a 6 inch deep plastic bin and use a small submergible pump to dispense it. I suspend the sculpture over the bin and use the hose to get a good covering. It only takes a few minutes for them to drip dry. A slow-speed fan helps to speed up that process. The coated figures stay clear and last for days. Some people add HI-Float to the outside of balloons before inflating them to avoid the “dust” that forms during longer periods of times or outside biodegration. METALLIC BALLOONS When inflating Qualatex 11″ Jewel-tone and pearl-tone balloons with helium and templating to 11″, we have found they tend to become a definite pear-shape. We combat this problem by preparing all of our balloons a day or two ahead of the job: What works for us is to insert Super Hi-Float, tie 7 or 8 together with some discarded pieces of curling ribbon, place in a zip lock baggie and store. This allows the balloons to be blown to a much larger size, and helps to eliminate the pear problem (for reasons why, see the effect of water on latex in the Balloon Science 101 chapter). Refrigeration has also been suggested to us as a means of extending the time between preparation and inflation. This simple method has been so successful for us that we do all of our delivery balloons ahead of time also. In fact, the employees in our shop CRINGE when someone stops in to order a bunch of balloons “cash & carry”! They simply do not look as full as the ones that have been prepared. Helium balloon shrinkage At times this has happened to us and one of the following situations is usually the reason. Pearlized balloons RARELY hold their size even with the proper amount of super hi float and helium. Heat and humidity are killers if the hi float didn’t dry completely. Bagging balloons before they are completely dry will cause severe shrinkage. Putting too little hi float into the balloons will cause this problem. Underfilling will cause shrinkage too (we always try to overfill if we are doing them the night before). Check your helium — was it mixed with air? Was the tank nearly empty? Who manufactured the balloons? What size and color was used? Were they left in a very cold room where the hi float did not dry quickly enough? Did you put too much hi float in the balloons? Don’t know if you’ll get the same experiences from others but I do know that we have had this happen, especially with Pearlized balloons, and it’s a real bummer — now we air inflate, deflate, hi float and inflate so that the balloons have been stretched a bit if we want to prep the job the night before. One nice advantage to hi floating ahead of time is that the balloons blow up a bit bigger – especially pearlized, and they seem to last even longer. It is true that pearlized and metallic colored balloons float about a third less time than regular colored balloons. You could just add a little less HI- FLOAT than normal, but they will float much longer if you use one of the following methods: METHOD 1: Inject the SUPER HI-FLOAT into the balloon the day before it is to be inflated, using the BLUE clip for an 11-inch balloon. Rub the balloon in the normal manner to spread the SUPER HI-FLOAT around when it is injected into the balloon. Treat several balloons this way and then gather them together by placing a rubber band around their necks to keep the SUPER HI-FLOAT from drying out. The next day briefly rub the balloon a second time and then inflate with helium. METHOD 2: (will give about the same increase in floating time as Method 1) Inflate the balloon with air to stretch it. Then deflate the balloon fully, treat it with SUPER HI-FLOAT in the normal manner, and reinflate with helium. This information is in the latest edition of The HI-FLOAT Book (blue cover, says “revised Nov. 1996″ on the inside of the back cover). This is from the Hi-float Book by Don & Marjorie Burchette: Pearlized and metallic colors float about a third less time than regular balloons. If you need the maximum floating life possible, don’t use pearlized or metallic colors. Also, agate balloons, heart-shaped balloons, and geos float much less time than regular balloons. To maximize pealize balloons with high float, inflate balloon with air (before highfloating), then highfloat. The balloons may seem bigger, but they’ll take more air and last longer. Pre-inflating does help balloons float even longer because they have been stretched and can hold more helium. However, this method is really only necessary if you are inflating pearlized or metallic colored balloons (which do not blow up as large as regular colors) or unusually shaped balloons, such as Geo Doughnuts and Blossoms. I preinflate the balloon to its full size with air, let the air out, and then I treat as I normally would with SUPER HI-FLOAT and inflate with helium. You might want to try testing a couple balloons in your shop. You could blow up one as you usually do, and then another that you have prestretched and see what kind of a difference you get in the floating life. Of course, if you want to increase the floating life of your balloons an easier way would be to use the next larger size balloon – it would accomplish the same thing (allowing you to put in more helium). HI-FLOAT AND GEO BLOSSOMS The blossoms traditionally do not float as long as an 11” balloon. The “helium lift” to weight ratio of the balloon is not as high as other balloons. Using Super High Float will help, but don’t use too much, and be sure to get it spread all the way around to assure that it will float straight. Bruce Walden recommended the following: inflate the balloon and clip it (instead of tying it) until the Super High Float dries. Then remove the clip and top off the balloon with helium that was lost during drying time. Using Hi-Float with Geo Blossoms: Don Burchette, the inventor of Hi-Float, just completed some tests, and I wanted to share the results with everyone. He found that he could extend the floating life of 16-inch blossums and doughnuts up to several days using the following method: First – Inflate the balloon with air to stretch it, then deflate it. Second – Inject Super Hi-Float using the WHITE clip on the pump dispenser. Rub the balloon to spread the Super Hi-Float around. Third – Inflate the balloon as large as possible with helium. The prestretching of the balloon with air lets you blow it up larger the second time. In an air-conditioned environment the balloons Don tested floated for several days using this method. As for (16-inch) heart-shaped and Geo balloons, the method for getting the maximum floating life isn’t in the HI-FLOAT book yet – Don Burchette just discovered this method during testing he did this summer: (1) Inflate the balloon with air to stretch it, then deflate the balloon fully. (2) Inject SUPER HI-FLOAT using the WHITE clip on the pump dispenser. Rub the balloon to spread the SUPER HI-FLOAT around. (3) Inflate the balloon as large as possible with helium. This prestreching of the balloon lets you blow it up larger the second time (as it does with pearlized balloons). The balloons should float several days using this method. Another tip – these balloons have a very short neck, and Don found them much easier to tie when they are fully inflated if you use a tying aid such as “Knot-A-Balloon”. That information may not be in the book, but it is on the newly released HI- FLOAT Video (has anyone seen it yet?) The video has 44 minutes of tips for using HI-FLOAT, and features Bruce Walden and Don and Marjorie Burchette. The video can be purchased from your HI-FLOAT distributor, and I think even those already familiar with HI-FLOAT can pick up a few new tricks from watching. Geo’s do last longer with Hi-float, but you have to make sure to evenly cover the entire balloon. If you have too much Hi-float at the top of your balloon this causes extra weight. The weight if heavier than your balloon stem will cause the top of your balloon to be weighted down. I always use Super Hi-Float in my donuts and blossoms. I use the blue clip, but I don’t use the full amount. I short it by just a pinch. Also, it is very important to inflate it to the maximum. I usually have either a 260 or 2- 5″ balloons in the center. But they usually float for 2 – 4 days. I tell my clients their float time is a little less than others in my arrangements. This way they are not dissappointed. HI-FLOATING 260’s I have Hifloated some 260’s, and had them stay up looking good for over a week. The people at Lonestar balloons told me they had had them stay up for about a month. Hifloat does work well, but it is a mess to put it in the balloons. I found that completly letting all the air out then filling them works the best. They twist the same. Should you pop one while twisting you’ll have a mess, but other than that it works well. It can be mess but worth the time. I use it for display balloons that I want to stay looking good for long periods of time. Yes I use Hi-float on air blown balloons (sometimes). If I am doing spiders for example, the 260Q legs don’t always last the 3 weeks that I need them to (they seem to be made thinner). So I discovered that Hi-floating 260Q’s gives them an extra “layer” so they last 3 weeks or more (and I don’t have to go back and do repairs). Of course I charge a bit more for that extra step. Also, realise that I do this only for “fast”, small sculptures like the spiders. I haven’t used the basic Hi-Float, but have used Super Hi-Float to try and put a coating on the outside of completed models, as per the guide. But had problems… The Hi-Float book recommends that you use basic Hi-Float for this purpose, but as the vendors I know only sell the super stuff I thought I’d experiment to see how it worked. I made 6 identical teddy-bears using brown balloons, left one uncoated and coated the others in different Hi-Float / water mixes (1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4 and 1:5). The bears were then pegged by their noses on the washing line outside to dry, and then brought inside and put in a safe place. The idea was that I would then check them each day, and judge the shine, inflation, etc., each half day to see which mix gave the best results. Well, the results were fairly cut and dry – after two days every bear except the untreated one had got at least one burst bubble, and some were looking extremely sorry. Consequently the Super Hi-Float has not been back out of the bottle. Someone also asked what Hi-Float is made of, and as far as I can remember it is a suspension of plastic – if you can get a copy of the Hi-Float book it tells you a bit more in there. HI-FLOAT AND AGATES Other reasons to use Hi-FLOAT outside the balloon is because certain types of balloon’s don’t allow the glue to dry fast enough (Swirl/Agate Colors in particular). Hi-Floating the inside of an Agate (the way you would any other latex) doesn’t really increase the floating life of the agate. This is because agates are actually turned inside out when they are produced. In order for the HI Float to work on an Agate, you have to Hi Float the outside of the agate. If you have a Hi Float hand book it explains the method of hi floating on the outside. If you only need the agates for one day, you probably don’t need to hi float them. We do hi float them (using the outside dipping method) when we add agates to delivery bouquets. Another way to hi-float Agates is to double stuff them with a diamond clear and hi-float that one. The agates prevent the high float from drying properly, so you’ve got a downed one sooner. To treat it, you dip the balloon into a glass (or whatever) of high float so that it coats the outside of the agate, and then inflate. A whole lot messier, but it works. Agates are a pain compared to normal balloons. I’ve had plenty “shred” over time so that the color drops off the clear outer balloon, and since they’re double dipped, they’re heavier. They may hold helium longer untreated, but their weight offsets it. From what we know here at Incredible Balloon, the 11″ Agate balloons were heavier than most other 11″ balloons Therefore the Hi- Float would not dry completely, and the added weight of the Hi-Float and heavy latex would limit float times. In February of 1995 the Canadian plant which produces Agate balloons switched to a lighter thickness of latex. If your bag of Qualatex balloons was produced after that date they should perform like all other 11″ balloons. : – ) Look to the lower right of the UPC code on your bag of balloons, and there should be a 5 digit number. First two numbers indicate yr. – the next three indicate the day in the year. day #1 to day #365. Hope this helps. Agates and HI-FLOAT. Mark from Incredible Balloons was correct – the old agates were heavier and therefore the HI-FLOAT could not dry fast enough to hold in the helium. However, the new Agates can be treated with HI-FLOAT without any problems. If you have some of the older Agates the best way to get maximum floating life is to double stuff them with a clear 11″ balloon. Treat the inside balloon in the normal manner. TIPS FOR MAXIMIZING FLOAT TIME Here are some recommendations: HI-FLOAT takes a few hours to dry inside a balloon, and the balloon will lose helium during those first couple of hours. Therefore, balloons you inflate at night will inevitably be smaller the next morning. We recommend inflating the balloons as fully as possible, until they are starting to become almost pear-shaped. As the balloon loses some helium in the first few hours it will lose some of the pear shape and become more rounded. Yvonne Mastny suggested prestretching with air – this is a great way to get your balloons to hold even more helium, and therefore be the size you want them to be after a few hours. You also want to make sure you add the full recommended amount of HI-FLOAT. The blue pump restriction clip is for 11-inch balloons. Adding less HI-FLOAT will allow the balloon to lose helium (and shrink in size) more quickly. I work at a party store part-time, and I have seen employees use either too much Hi-Float, or not enough helium. Hi-Float is like Brylcream (a little dab’ll do ya). For 11″ balloons, all you need is what amounts to about 2 eyedrops of Super Hi-float. Also, you must coat the entire inside of the balloon, even getting into the neck. Use more than that, and if you don’t spread the solution around to fully coat the inside, and you will get a “drunken” balloon: that is, it will appear lopsided, and won’t last for very long at all. Also, be careful not to “underfill” your balloons, especially pearlized balloons and GEOS. Remember, when you add Hi-Float, you’re adding weight to the balloon, and you’ll need just a bit more helium to compensate. There are several factors that might have affected the poor results of the float time for the balloon you purchased. #1 The quality of the balloon (if the party store was using a poor quality balloons they are not going to last as long as a Qualatex Balloon. I own a party store and have checked out the balloons that a lot of the party stores sell in the area and most of them sell very cheap balloons) #2 The complete coverage of the balloon is very important. #3 I have found that the weather also can affect the float time of your balloons….I hate summer time! Some reasons balloons flounder even though they were hi floated: Were the balloons 11″? Did you let them dry before bagging them? Was it very hot and humid in the inflation area? Did you underinflate them? Did you put too much hi float in them – I find that the restrictor for 11″ sometimes creates a “hovering” balloon, especially with pearlized, so I just don’t use the restrictors at all. Check your tying — perhaps you are tying too loosely and perhaps you’re pulling too tightly and burning the balloon neck. And did you give thanks and praise to the Balloon Goddess? Sometimes weird things just happen, but not usually to the entire job. Much better luck next time — don’t give up on hi float because it gives us such a larger window of preparation time. I use super hi-float daily and have found that pre-stretching with air first and then over-inflating or at least inflating to full size makes all the difference. Of course the hi-float has to dry properly but overall the results are great. I read somewhere, that Hi Floated balloons perform best when they are allowed to dry in a cool dry environment. So if the weather is extra humid, the hi float isn’t going to dry properly, thus reducing performance. Humidity is definitely one of the biggest factors in how long a balloon will float. Even if you use Super Hi-Float, 4-5 days is about all you can expect from an 11-inch balloon in humid conditions. We recommend using larger balloons in the summer time (14-inch) to increase floating times. Anyone who is interested can call the Hi-Float Company toll-free at 1-800-57FLOAT for a tip sheet that contains suggestions for getting the maximum floating life from your latex balloons. Hi-Float will keep balloons flying for 3-5 days and Super Hi-Float will keep them flying for 5-7 days. So doing your balloons the night before is positively no problem. We do find, however, that the balloons do come down about 8-10 percent (probably due to the drying time needed for the Hi-Float inside the balloon), so be sure to fill them full. Another trick we have learned is to pre-inflate your balloons with air, deflate them, and then put your Super Hi-Float in them and re-inflate them with the helium. The pre-inflation process stretches the balloons so they will inflate larger and float longer. Pre-inflating does help balloons float even longer because they have been stretched and can hold more helium. However, this method is really only necessary if you are inflating pearlized or metallic colored balloons (which do not blow up as large as regular colors) or unusually shaped balloons, such as Geo Doughnuts and Blossoms. I preinflate the balloon to its full size with air, let the air out, and then I treat as I normally would with SUPER HI-FLOAT and inflate with helium. You might want to try testing a couple balloons in your shop. You could blow up one as you usually do, and then another that you have prestretched and see what kind of a difference you get in the floating life. Of course, if you want to increase the floating life of your balloons an easier way would be to use the next larger size balloon – it would accomplish the same thing (allowing you to put in more helium). HF 11″ balloons sized to only 9″ would have definitely less float time than 16″ downsized to 14″. 16 inch or 3 foot round balloons can have up to 2 weeks of float time. I have some 11″ balloons that I just took down today and they have been up for 2 weeks. They were still floating but there was some shrinkage so I decided to replace them. I have some leftover printed balloons floating around my apartment. They were treated and inflated in the morning 6 days ago. Out of 20, I still have 5 on the ceiling. SHF If used in 260’s, it makes them last for months. 2 weeks ago today, we inflated 14″ latex, augmented with Super Hi-Float�. As of this morning at 8:45 am, the 14″ Super Hi-Float� coated latex is STILL floating. Granted, it’s about the size of an 11″ balloon, has virtually no lift and has been in an air conditioned area, but the fact remains that it is still floating. ARTISTIC APPLICATIONS OF HI FLOAT The best reason to use High Float though is to create internal effects with confetti/glitter. My favorite trick I read years ago in Image magazine was a to do spider web INSIDE a clear latex 16″ balloon-complete with spider. Everyone wondered how it was done at the time. You inflate the prepared balloon-sans plastic spider-with air and allow it to dry. Then deflate the balloon and pull/stretch it 1-3 times. Reinflate SLOWLY with helium and add the spider afterwards – if you do it before re-inflation it’ll throttle around and likely break the balloon as well as screw up the “web”. I prepare 3 balloons for every “one” good one that I use since it’s fairly tricky to get the web to look right. Add food color to Hi-float to make swirled colors in a white balloon. Be sure not to squish the Hi-float around too much or you will have a pastel, solid color interior. I’m thinking strawberry swirl ice cream… or maybe confetti inside to make it look like chocolate chips… how about some sprinkles made from bits of chopped up curling ribbon? To Easter Eggize balloons, put a bit of hi-float (not much for a 5″er) in a white balloon and then put in just a bit of food coloring (a drop makes a nice pastel shade for an 11″). Do the usual spreading technique for the hi-float and then inflate. I do Balloon-in-Balloons Hi floated all the time. Here’s what I do. I high float the outside balloon, blow it up about 2/3 to 3/4 the way put a jumbo quicky clip on it and let it dry for about 2-3 hrs till it is no longer sticky inside, but still flexible. Then I remove the clip and inflate the inside balloon and tie it. I’ve never tried several. If it is at all sticky inside you may have a problem, and if you wait too long to add the inside balloon, the hi float dries, and will crack inside, and make the balloon look cloudy and UGLY. The drying time also depends on the temperature, and the weather conditions, so your balloons may dry either faster or slower than they do here. I wrote about Hi-Floating(super) Gumballs (in England we call them BubbleGums) for a delivery. It was said that it couldn’t be done. So I did the delivery without them. (She was still really pleased anyway). The problem really bugged me. Then an idea hit me so I tried with 11″. I coat the balloon with the right amount on the inside and rubbed it around. Then I took a Diamond clear over a pencil and gently stuffed it inside, took out the pencil and gently moved the balloon and so it coated the other balloon and got all the air bubbles out and then inflated as normal. The Super Hi-float is sandwiched between the two balloons leaving the inside sticky free. The method that I think works well for an 11-inch balloon inside a 16-inch is to treat the 16-inch clear balloon, using a little bit less Hi-Float than normal. Rub it around they way you normally would, and then insert your 11-inch balloon. Blow up the 16-inch about halfway and then inflate the 11-inch. If you hold them straight up while you are inflating them the 11-inch will not stick to the inside of the 16-inch. If it does you can normally get it loose again by tapping on the side. I also always preinflate if I am doing any type of special effect balloon – a confetti balloon, spider web balloon, Easter egg balloon, etc. – because I don’t want to spend my time and materials and then discover the balloon has a defect. MB 12/13/95

MB 12/22/95

SKB 01/13/97

SKB 12/23/97

MB 7/20/99

1. How do you prevent balloons from being deflated?

It’s a fact that balloons will begin to deflate as soon as they’re inflated and tied, even if you don’t immediately see a visible change in them. So, to solve this problem, your goal should be to choose the type of balloon that best suits your needs and create the best conditions for a longer life of your balloons. There are 5 factors that, upon closer inspection, can give you clear guidance on how to make your balloons last longer.

Factor 1: balloon type

Latex balloons start to decompose immediately after inflation because it is a biodegradable natural product. Foil or plastic balloons last much longer. However, the downside is that the latter two can be more harmful to the environment when disposed of and are much more expensive. (See this article for a detailed description of the different types of balloons.)

Factor 2: balloon size

Larger balloons tend to deflate much less air than smaller ones. So if you can, use bigger balloons.

Factor 3: Gas used to fill the balloons

Although balloons filled with helium can create a spectacular overall effect, rest assured it won’t last long. Balloons filled with helium stay afloat for between 10 and 12 hours. No matter what material you choose for your balloons, helium will leak. Balloons filled with air will certainly last longer. (Learn how to create adorable displays with air-filled balloons here.)

Factor 4: Balloon treatments

Latex balloons last longer by using either of two treatments or both. Hi-Float is a patented liquid solution that is applied to the inside to seal pores in latex to slow air leakage. A single squirt inside the balloon keeps it floating up to 25 times longer! Hi-float will not work on foil balloons (Mylar) and will hinder their ability to float.

Then there’s Balloon Shine silicone spray, which is applied to the outside of the balloon to protect it from UV rays, thus slowing down oxidation (decomposition).

Factor 5: The conditions to which the balloons are exposed

The guiding principle is that balloons work best in the same type of environment that people are comfortable in. The worst thing you can do to shorten the life of your balloons is to expose them to direct sunlight and outside air. Under these conditions, balloons only survive for a few hours. It is therefore advisable that you set up your balloons outdoors, ideally in the late afternoon or early evening.

Also, foil balloons are more resilient to outdoor environments than latex balloons.

On the other hand, air-filled balloons, even latex balloons, remain unaltered to the naked eye for up to 5 days if kept indoors, out of direct sunlight, and at a cool, stable temperature. This is not the case if you choose to fill your balloons with helium; They generally last up to 12 hours before starting to sink.

In warm weather, latex balloons usually only last a day outside. As you know, the sun, wind and heat will biodegrade the latex. Still, there are tricks you can use to increase your chances of them lasting more than a day outdoors.

1) Only use high quality balloons such as Qualatex. Quality makes a big difference.

2) Avoid using latex balloons if possible. After a few days outdoors, we saw them completely disintegrate to the touch.

3) Always under-inflate to allow the balloons to expand when absorbing heat. We have found that the method that works best is to over-inflate the balloon and then deflate until the balloon is slightly under-inflated. This allows the balloon to breathe and expand more easily and not become as brittle. Under-inflation is of little use unless you inflate too much first.

4) Use balloons two sizes larger than you would normally use.

5) Inflating balloons with the same air temperature they encounter outdoors can actually help them hold their shape better.

6) Helium doesn’t work well outdoors in the heat. (Like all substances, helium molecules, which are initially less dense than air, expand when heated. This expansion of the molecules causes helium to be even less dense. Steadily increased heat and pressure from the moving molecules eventually causes the balloon to burst .)

7) While Hi-Float is used to keep balloons floating longer, it is generally not intended for outdoor use. If you want your balloons to float outside longer, consider doing daily touch-ups to your balloon arrangements. Make sure this is included in your budget.

8) Balloons just don’t last overnight outdoors. When the cold air shrinks the balloons and expands them in the sun the next day, they will pop like crazy. This can be avoided by simply bringing all the balloons indoors in the evening.

9) Use white balloons as much as possible. They reflect the sun and are less likely to fade.

10) Avoid darker colored balloons. They absorb heat and pop faster. If you need darker colors in your balloon decor, use ribbon to accent in a darker color.

11) Remember that extreme heat will accelerate balloon deflation. So, at temperatures close to 100 degrees, the helium escapes much faster, drastically reducing the levitation time. Finding a way to shade balloons can slow down the process a bit.

12) Do not use water to cool balloons. As the water dries on the latex it will become slightly sticky. Balloons can stick together and burst as balloons expand in heat.

13) Mylar foil balloons last longer than latex outdoors. Just allow extra room for normal expansion and contraction from under-inflation. The disadvantage is that the film does not retain its color or shine in the hot sun. By the end of the day there will be a noticeable difference.

14) If possible, use some kind of frame to add structure to your balloon decor that will withstand wind and heat. This can also be helpful for helium-filled balloons that lose float time in the heat.

15) We’ve found that when balloons burst in the heat and sun, it usually happens within the first hour. So you have a pretty good indication of whether it will work if you set it up early.

While making balloon decorations outdoors in the heat can be difficult, it’s certainly not impossible. Just use the tips above to greatly improve your chances.

step 3

Spray Hi-Float into your balloon before using a 60/40 inflator. These two work best together and will help keep your latex balloons alive for days. The size of your balloon will depend on how much hi-float you need. For example, place the opening of the balloon over the Hi-Float’s pump. If it is an 11 inch balloon, inflate the spray up to 3 times. Then inflate the balloon to full capacity with the 60/40 inflater.

(large top pocket) Geo Blossoms (I use a ton of these) (other top pocket) 321s (bottom pockets) 5″ Smileys and Hi-Bounce Balls (I still use a ton of these!) 5″ and 11″ single sized 6″ and 11″ Hearts (I should own Pioneer stock for these!)

“But wait!!!!” you say. “Where are the 260s going????”

That’s the unique part. I HATE trying to find the color I want, even if the balloons are sorted two or three colors in a bag. So I buy single color pockets and keep them separate on my apron.

The best way I’ve found to do this is to poke 50-60 of each color through the center hole of a 6″ Geo Bloom. Pearl tones work best, they seem to be able to handle the stress of stretching beyond the 260s better than the jewel tones. This also allows me to “tag” the dark colors – I use a light green bloom to hold the green 260s, a lavender pearl for purple, etc. I use white blooms for black and clear ones for brown I’ve found this to do the quest for the color you want and trying to guess green from black from sapphire. I also use one bloom to hold my 130s and another for my 350s.

To attach the blooms to my apron, I tie two 350’s together to make a long elastic cord. I tie the ends of this to the straps of the apron so the 350 strap extends across the front of the apron. I then tie the neck of each of the geo flowers to this ribbon, keeping them about 2 inches apart. The resulting apron looks like a GIANT KOOSH, but that’s part of my look.

I’ve found I can spend 1 hour “loading” my apron this way, but I have enough balloons to work 12-16 hours at the restaurant. The only downside is that if you have fewer than 10 balloons left in a flower, they tend to fall out on their own. Otherwise I love this system and customers are amazed at the variety of balloons I have.

How long does balloon decoration last? (The short answer)

A balloon arch can last anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks depending on the temperature, heat, humidity and quality of the balloon decor. Under ideal circumstances, latex balloons can last several days outdoors or even several weeks indoors. Foil balloons have even been used for decoration for a number of years!

Because balloon arches can be made with helium or air, the answers can vary widely. Helium decor can vary due to a variety of factors, which we won’t go into too much detail here. You can learn more about helium in this article. For purposes of this discussion, we will be specifically talking about air-filled arches with a frame. Using a frame eliminates the need for helium and makes answering this question much easier and definitely less complicated.

Want to know how long helium filled decor can last? Read our post on helium balloon longevity.

How long does balloon decoration last? (The longer answer)

The longer answer has more to offer. So we will address some of these points below. If you want the short answer, stick with the answer above. Otherwise, you can find more information here on how to increase the longevity of your balloon decoration. When it comes to arches specifically, this information mostly applies to balloon garlands in general. Enjoy!

What makes decor NOT durable?

The first question one might ask is why balloons don’t last at all. If they don’t get banged, wouldn’t they be okay? That would be great, but that’s just not how things work. Even under ideal conditions, balloons immediately lose tiny bits of air through the invisible pores in the latex. Small air molecules bounce around inside even at room temperature. These bouncing molecules are what causes the balloon to inflate to its apparent size. For the same reason, a balloon immersed in liquid nitrogen shrinks to its nearly deflated size, only to “inflate again” when it warms up again. Physics and chemistry can be cool!

All scientific rumors aside, there are things that work against the balloon’s longevity. First, they are a natural and biodegradable latex made from the sap of a rubber tree. Being latex and not plastic, they naturally want to degrade when they come into contact with the environment. Luckily for the party-goers, this is usually a slow process. However, it can be accelerated and leads to the main reasons why they deflate or burst prematurely.

Heat and humidity begin to degrade balloons and are the first obstacle to their longevity. The introduction of heat and moisture can cause balloons to oxidize (that’s a fancy word for rust). Yes, balloons can rust like a piece of iron. There are different elements involved, but it works the same way. When a balloon is exposed to heat and moisture, it loses its bright glossy coating and slowly becomes covered in a velvety sheen or even the appearance of a powder. This is the visual element of this process and is the easiest way for a professional balloon decorator to determine the age of a balloon arch.

There are also other elements that can pop a balloon. Some of the main things we’ve seen are the static pulling of sand or glass particles onto the balloons, the actual melting from the intense heat of the sun, and then there’s the wind. Wind alone doesn’t do much damage, but it can add to any of these other elements to make things go faster. Wind accelerates oxidation, can carry particles up from the ground where static electricity can pull them towards the balloons to pop, and can even pop melted balloons by putting extra stress on them.

What makes balloon decor last longer?

Balloons love cool, dark places. We store our balloons in almost airtight containers, protected from light and in an air-conditioned room. This helps them last as long as possible, and we’ve had absolutely no problem using balloons that are a year old.

There is a lot to consider at an event. Just because an arch of balloons may last the longest in a dark room that isn’t being used doesn’t mean it has the greatest impact on the event. Therefore, balloon professionals are here to work with you to find the absolute best location for your balloon arch based on your specific needs. If you only need a sheet for one day, there are many options to choose from. If it’s going to last a week or more, we need to start getting creative and come up with different ways we can extend the balloon’s lifespan.

In short, there are few ways to extend the life of the balloon. They either slow down oxidation, work to eliminate popping factors, or a combination of both. YTE Events and Balloon Decor has been building balloon decorations for years and has learned almost every trick to help. So let us know what you’re trying to achieve, and we’ll do what we can to lessen the bang and ensure you have the best possible event experience.

Balloon arc filled with air inside

The most durable way to build balloon decor is to build an arch that is in an air conditioned environment and has a frame to support it as the balloons slowly begin to deflate. A standard arch of properly inflated latex balloons will last anywhere from 12 hours to 2 days with no significant problems. The lower number represents an arch closer to a door where heat and moisture are regularly introduced from the outside. The longer time frame is representative of an arc not exposed to the same environmental stresses.

A balloon professional can even extend this time! Treating the balloons early can extend the time up to 25 days or more. Balloons can be treated both inside and outside to reduce the rate of oxidation. They can also be treated to eliminate some of the static electricity that can draw possible particles into the balloons that could pop the balloons.

The biggest concern with permanent balloon decorations at a corporate location or venue is the possibility that chemicals and solvents will be used in the cleaning process, which can also corrode the balloons and cause them to disintegrate more quickly.

We are sure that an inside bow can be guaranteed (in most cases) for 2-5 days without any problems. If we feel there is a concern and it is important to last longer we can also offer a ‘refresh’ option which will allow us to come to your venue and touch up any deflated balloons and ensure the balloon arch is good looks brand new and fresh for any event.

Outdoor balloon arches have other concerns

There are many different things to consider when setting up an outdoor balloon arch. The weather often plays a major role. A hot, humid area with no overhead shadows can cause a bow to last a few hours at most. If an arch is set up the night before, or even very early the same morning, a condensation element can be added to the balloons. This can make them slightly sticky and, when heated by the sun, can cause some of the balloons to fuse together. In this case, a light wind can cause a whole bunch of balloons to pop at once.

Color also plays a role in exterior decoration. An arch of dark colored balloons will gather more heat and energy from the sun and may cause them to melt or pop more easily. White is the absolute best color for exterior decoration as it has the longest chance of surviving in the elements.

Outside there are also more things to blow towards the balloons to pop the balloons before the sun gets to it. Things like sand, broken glass, brick dust, and even more direct objects like pins can be blown in the wind toward the arches of the balloon, causing them to burst.

In some areas, even the blades of grass or other plants can secrete oils that can cause the balloons to pop sooner than normal. Because of this, some balloon decorators even put down fabric or ground sheets to prevent the balloons from directly touching the balloons.

Other frequently asked questions about the lifespan of a balloon arch:

Does a balloon arch last overnight?

In our climate (Central Florida) a balloon arch can typically last one night and most of the next day if placed outdoors. It’s usually fine the first day. Then, the next day, dew and condensation collect on it. After that, and in the heat of the second day, the arch is prone to cracking at the introduction of a significant gust of wind or exposure to direct sunlight during the heat of the day. If it hasn’t burst by day two, day three is usually the limit in our hot and humid climate. There are exceptions and it may be extended if there is some shade or if it was a particularly cloudy day. However, we have also seen balloon decorations placed in direct sun during the summer heat that only last a few hours. So it can vary. At the same time, our outdoor decorations last up to a week in optimal conditions. For interior decoration, we prepare in advance and often balloons stay inflated days in advance and last for several days after your party.

How long does a balloon arch last?

We talked about this above, but it depends very much on the type of bow and its position. A helium arc can last a few hours. A balloon arch filled with outside air can last a few days. An indoor latex arch can last a few weeks. An indoor balloon arch filled with air can last up to a few months.

Where should I place my balloon arch?

We recommend placing an arch where it makes the most sense for your event. If it doesn’t matter, then we would recommend placing it out of direct sun, ideally indoors, with a minimal amount of potential popping factors. You can read the article above for more information on the specifics of what can pop items.

Can I set up a balloon arch the night before?

In most cases, setting up a balloon arch the night before is perfectly fine. However, if it will be filled with helium, it should be set up on the day of the event.

Can I do a balloon arch the day before?

In most cases, you can do the balloon arch the day before and it’s absolutely fine. The biggest exception would be a helium arch, which we recommend setting up on the day of the event.

How far can I make the balloon arch?

Professional balloon artists have tips and tricks so they can inflate and prepare a range of items well in advance. Most professionals blow and build balloon decorations up to a week before your event. This also applies to bows. In the right environment, a balloon arch can easily last for weeks. Professionals typically inflate balloons at least a day in advance so they can identify and fix “slow leaks” before delivering the balloon arch to your event.

How long does a helium arc last?

A helium arc can last a few hours indoors and may or may not last a significant amount of time outdoors. If a helium bow is blown outdoors and hits grass, concrete, or anything sharp or hot, the balloons can burst. Indoors, a helium arc can last up to 8 or 12 hours in most cases. If the balloons are handled properly and the conditions are right, a helium arc can last up to 3 or 5 days.

Will a bow filled with helium or air last longer?

The air-filled balloon arch lasts longer in all scenarios. It is by far the absolute best option for longevity.

Can you treat a balloon arch to make it last longer?

You certainly can! Normally we would only recommend treating a bow this way if it is indoors and you plan to keep it for a month or more. The treatments can help slow the escape of air from inside, but they don’t completely stop oxidation. So if you keep it out of the elements, you can get most of the work done. The longer lasting treatments are great for prolonging the life of a balloon arch, but do not prevent balloons from bursting due to other factors.

Would you like to have a balloon arch at your event?

Call us! We’re happy to help answer any questions, give you a quote, or discuss some arch placement suggestions to increase the longevity of your balloon decor.

You can also fill out an event contact form.

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We love balloons and the environment

We all have to take care of the planet. To live in harmony with the environment around us, we encourage responsible use of balloons – and discourage releasing them outdoors – to create a better world.

Balloon Responsibility

Here’s how to enjoy your balloons and keep them off waterways and power lines:

Safe inflation – never inhale helium. Use a balloon pump or helium tank to ensure you inflate the balloons properly.

Don’t Let Them Go – Attach a balloon weight after inflating the balloons to keep them from floating away.

Pop & Toss-Once the party is over, deflate balloons first and then discard.

Take care of your little ones – deflated or broken balloons can pose a choking hazard. Make sure all balloon debris is kept away from the children.

Together we can take action to protect the environment while responsibly enjoying and celebrating life’s special occasions with balloons.

If possible, take filled balloons outside before adding food coloring to avoid making a mess around the house.

Watch for leaks, as food coloring squirting out of a tiny hole in a balloon can stain wall paint, tiles, and clothes.

Wear gloves to protect your hands from the food coloring. Black gloves are perfect because they don’t stain!

If you don’t get snow or freezing temperatures in your cabin, use the freezer instead.

We found this cool winter project on Pinterest and had to share it. Kids and grandchildren will love it too! Simply fill water balloons with water, add a few drops of food coloring, tie off the ends, and freeze in the snow overnight. After freezing, cut the balloon with scissors. Adorn your walkway in the booth with the colorful crystal balls or place them around the entrance to create a fun talking point. The little pops of color really stand out against the white snow. Vanessa Felie, a blogger from Granby, Connecticut, also shared these helpful tips:

For more artistic pursuits, visit Vanessa’s blog at www.queenvanna.wordpress.com.

For more craft ideas as well as recipes and great cabin photos, follow us on Pinterest.

Today’s activity was unplanned just something we observed playing with water balloons.

We were playing with water balloons, filling them and preparing to water each other and I asked the kids while holding them if they thought they were going to swim or sink. The consensus was that they would sink because they were heavy. Out of interest, I asked them if they thought an empty balloon would sink or float, they thought it would float.

We have a pot deep enough for our balloons to sit in and we filled it with cold water. Then we launched our balloons and waited. All the balloons floated, including the empty ones.

We took out one of the balloons and rolled it around in our hands and noticed that the air bubble kept rising. We wondered if this made the balloons float. I realized we could test that. Our balloons came with a water pump and I found I could fill them underwater without air getting in.

We did this and checked the balloon for air…None! It was still floating!

I then explained that balloon rubber floats, which we had already observed, and that the water in the balloon was the same as the water in the pan, so the balloon and the water as a whole should float, right?

I then told the kids that the temperature has an effect on the water…so we heated the water in the pan (keep the kids away from the hot water).

When the water in the pan was too hot to touch, I removed it from the stove and put it somewhere safe where the children could see, then carefully placed the balloon inside. It sank.

Twenty minutes later when we walked in, the balloon was floating… How strange…. what do you think happened

The Science Bit

Warm water is less dense than cold water, so the cold water in the water balloon was denser than the hot water and therefore sank. As the water cooled, its density increased, causing the balloon to float again.

Warm water is less dense than cold water because the heat source excites the water molecules, making them move faster, when they bump into each other they bounce off and increase the distance between them.

Don’t forget you can follow Science Sparks on Pinterest and Facebook.

Last updated March 23, 2014 by Emma Vanstone