Metal Stud Partition System? The 165 New Answer

Builders looking for solutions to metal and wood stud construction problems should consider Fox Blocks Insulated Concrete Form (ICF) construction. Fox Blocks ICFs create energy efficient and durable buildings that are fire, disaster, termite and moisture resistant. In addition, Fox Blocks ensure a comfortable and safe indoor environmental quality (IEQ) with excellent acoustics and no unhealthy volatile organic compounds (VOC) or mould.

For the past 100 years, builders have used thick metal and traditional wooden studs to frame load-bearing walls. Cost, ease of construction, availability of skilled workers, and design constraints typically determine whether a contractor uses metal or wood studs. In this post, we discuss the advantages and problems of metal posts and wooden posts in commercial and residential construction. We further discuss how the use of Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs) is a superior alternative to metal and wooden studs for load-bearing wall design.

Metal studs provide the same basic support for a building’s structure as wooden studs. The studs support the exterior and interior walls, ceiling and roof. As with wood posts, the loading weight limit of metal posts depends on a number of factors, including the height of the post, the width of the post, and spacing.

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axial load

The axial loading of metal studs refers to the weight or pressure that the studs can withstand from both the top and the sides. This means that in order not to twist or bend in a strong wind event, walls must be able to simultaneously support the weight of the structure above and the pressure exerted on them by the force of the wind.

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weight limit

The axial load or load weight limit for metal bolts varies widely. For example, an 8-foot, 3-1/2-inch metal stud can support over 2,000 pounds, while a 16-foot stud of the same width can only support 400 pounds. Although there are several factors associated with the load weight limit for metal cleats, the longer the cleat, the less weight it supports. Because of this, taller studs may need to be spaced more closely to provide the same stability to a structure.

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Distance

Like the size of the cleats, the spacing of the metal cleats also has a big impact on the support the cleats provide. For example, 16-foot, 3-1/2-inch metal studs spaced every 16 feet within a wall provide nearly twice the support than the same-sized studs spaced every 24 feet within the wall. Spacing has less impact on shorter lugs, such as B. 8-foot lugs that maintain the same amount of support whether they are 12 or 24 inches apart.

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Increasing axial load

In many cases, the metal wall stud manufacturer will provide a table or guide that indicates what the more effective spacing is for studs of different heights. If these charts show that closer lug spacing provides more stability than wider lug spacing, consider placing lugs as close together as possible. On the other hand, if the chart doesn’t show a big difference in the spacing of the metal studs, you can save money by placing the studs farther apart.

When designing a wall, strength, quality, durability and ease of use are the main concerns. Wooden posts are strong and easy to install, but the quality can be spotty at times. They’re durable, but only as long as you keep them perfectly dry. Steel bolts address many of these concerns. But are they right for your home? Should you tackle steel if you’re going to do it yourself? The following steel bolt briefing may help you decide.

Basic steel bolts

Not so long ago, steel studs were rarely seen in residential buildings. Home builders or home remodeling professionals bought them from specialty hardware stores. Today, steel studs are more commonly found in hardware stores, although wooden studs remain more popular.

1:38 Now watch: steel studs vs wooden studs for wall frames

Standard sizes of steel bolts

Local wholesalers usually carry the steel posts in dimensions equivalent to 2 x 4 wood posts and in lengths ranging from 8ft to 12ft. Standard steel studs available at home centers use 25 gauge steel. Here is more sizing information:

Standard sizes range from 2 1/2 inches to 14 inches.

Flanges (the side pieces) range from 1 3/8 inches to 3 inches.

Bolts are supplied with cutouts for electrical cables.

Knockouts range from 3/4″ to 1 1/2″ in diameter.

Steel bolts Predictable quality

Doesn’t bend or warp

Won’t rot

Difficult to cut

Hard-to-find wooden studs standard sizes

It can be found in every hardware store and wood store

Inexpensive

Easy to cut

Can rot, especially at the bottom of walls

Illustration: The Spruce / Ellen Lindner

Pros and cons of using steel bolts

Taking all factors into account, most home improvement enthusiasts will find that there is little benefit to using metal studs over traditional wooden studs. For beginners, using steel posts requires a learning curve that makes installation a bit slower than wood posts, plus working with steel introduces additional safety risks.

There may be places where you still prefer to use wood as well as metal posts, e.g. B. if you put electrical boxes between jamb and door frame. You may also find it easier to add moldings around doors and windows when they have been framed in wood rather than steel.

Tip Steel studs that are in contact with an air-conditioned area (e.g. a heated basement) on one side and a cold outdoor area (brick foundation walls) on the other allow significantly more heat loss than wooden studs. Because metal is a much better conductor of heat. Avoid this by constructing walls with a thermal break or gap.

Advantages of Steel Bolts

Predictable: Unlike lumber, which can be delivered even if the boards are warped, twisted or bent, steel bolts (unless damaged) always arrive perfectly straight.

: Unlike wood, which can be delivered even if the boards are warped, twisted or bent, steel bolts (unless damaged) always arrive perfectly straight. DURABLE: Metal posts are impervious to fire, termites, rot, splinters and every other number of hazards that can affect organic-based building materials like wood.

: Metal posts are impervious to fire, termites, rot, splinters and every other number of hazards that can affect organic-based building materials like wood. Inexpensive: While never as cheap as wood, steel posts are now only about 40 percent more expensive than wood posts.

: Never as cheap as wood, steel posts are now only about 40 percent more expensive than wood posts. Lightweight: Steel bolts are easier to carry and store than wood because they are hollow. Studs can be nested within each other to some extent.

: Steel bolts are easier to carry and store than wood because they are hollow. Studs can be nested within each other to some extent. Good for Problem Areas: Steel studs work well in bathrooms, basements, and other water-prone areas because they’re impervious to moisture.

Disadvantages of Steel Bolts

Difficult to cut: Steel bolts are more difficult to cut than wood. Steel requires a miter or circular saw fitted with a metal cutting blade in conjunction with tin snips.

: It is more difficult to cut steel bolts than to cut wood. Steel requires a miter or circular saw fitted with a metal cutting blade in conjunction with tin snips. Limited Availability: Metal studs found at your local hardware store are usually only available in the most common dimensions.

: Metal studs found at your local hardware store are usually only available in the most common dimensions. Limited Creativity: Metal is not a forgiving material, which can be more frustrating for a DIYer than working with a flexible and malleable material like wood.

: Metal is not a forgiving material, which can be more frustrating for a DIYer than working with a flexible and malleable material like wood. Drywall assembly is tricky: driving a drywall screw into a metal stud takes more work and practice than driving a drywall screw into a wooden stud (the wood helps pull the screw in).

: Driving a drywall screw into a metal stud takes more work and practice than driving a drywall screw into a wooden stud (the wood helps pull the screw in). Risk of rusting: Steel bolts can break down due to rusting in moisture-prone areas. Many are galvanized to reduce rusting, but some can still rust completely at the base.

Warning Cutting metal studs can be more dangerous than cutting wood, although both require the use of power tools which can be dangerous if used improperly. Other risks of using metal rivets include: Cutting metal rivets by hand with tin snips can cause skin injury.

The noise made by an electric saw on metal studs will damage hearing unless you wear hearing protection.

Raw edges can be quite sharp, so be sure to wear thick work gloves and long sleeves.

Most TV mounts on the market are designed to be installed in wooden studs or concrete, but it is also possible to mount a TV in metal studs. The process is practically the same, but you’ll need a few additional tools and devices. In this article, we will take you through the step-by-step process of installing a TV mount in metal posts and show you just how easy the process can be.

How to find metal studs in your wall

You can find your metal studs with a stud finder. Most residential buildings and offices have metal stud walls for fire safety reasons. Steel bolts are non-combustible and help slow the spread of fire. They are also resistant to damage from termites, insects, rot and mold – making them popular in many modern buildings.

For the most part, installing a mount into metal studs requires the exact same tools you would need to install into a wood stud installation.

Tools for mounting a TV in metal studs:

Drill

½” drill

tape measure

Stud Finder

Even

pencil

socks set

Even

screwdriver

duct tape

painters tape

Before purchasing the mount, make sure you know what material your stands are made of and that you have permission to drill into your walls if you rent your space. If you are unsure about the building material, consult a professional for help.

Mounting a TV in metal studs VS wooden studs

A TV mount designed for metal studs is almost identical to one designed for a wood stud installation. The difference lies in the hardware used to attach the mount to the wall to ensure proper support. Wood post installations use tie bolts that screw directly into the post, while metal post installations require hardware such as toggle screws, drill toggles, or snap toggles to secure them into the metal post.

In this example we will install the Kanto LX600SW TV mount. It comes with four toggle screws to ensure a secure installation. Toggle bolts, also known as toggle anchors, provide extra support to hold heavy objects that a wall alone could not provide.

Step 1: Determine the height for your TV

The first step in the installation process is figuring out how tall you want your TV to be. We recommend centering the TV at eye level for a comfortable viewing experience and to avoid neck and eye strain.

After you have found the height for the TV, use a piece of masking tape to mark the center spot.

Step 2: Install the hardware on the TV

The next step is to install the frame on the TV. Begin by installing the vertical arms on the TV. We used a spacer here because the TV has a burr and a spacer will bring the arm outward slightly.

Once you have the vertical arms installed you can proceed and install the horizontal bracket.

Step 3: Locate the metal studs in your wall

Use the pin finder to locate the metal pins and use a pencil to mark the areas. In most cases, the metal pins are about 16 inches apart, so you should have a good idea of ​​where to start.

Step 4: Installing the bracket

Next we’ll use the spirit level to make sure the marks are level. When you are sure the marks are level, tape the template to the wall with painter’s tape.

Use a spirit level and mark the bottom drill holes for the toggle bolts/anchors.

If you have tape lying around the house, use it to cover the mark where you will drill so the wall stencil sticks firmly to the wall.

The stencil comes with an attached dust collector. Before you start drilling, make sure it’s extended so any dust particles from the drywall can collect inside. This will make cleaning much easier. Once you’ve drilled your holes, simply fold up the wall template and discard it.

Step 5: Installing the Toggler Bolts

The Kanto LX600SW TV mount comes with 4 toggle screws which are very easy to attach. You can rotate the bolt so that it can be extended and inserted through the hole, and once through it can be rotated to grip against the back of the bolt.

First, extend your toggle screw through the hole.

Once you’ve threaded it through, turn the screw so it clicks into place and pull firmly toward you until secure.

Next, push the locking clip cap into the hole to secure the toggle bolt.

Finally, once your anchor is secure, wiggle the clips until they snap and leave your anchor in place. Repeat the same process for the remaining toggle screws.

Step 6: Installing the bracket on the wall

Once all the toggle screws are installed, you can mount the bracket to the wall. From here the process is essentially the same as mounting your TV in wooden studs. You can use a drill to fasten the process, but only tighten them about 90% to avoid loosening the screw – from there it’s best to finish with a hand tool.

Step 7: Hang the TV on your bracket

It is recommended that you have a friend help you with this step as TVs can be heavy and you may endanger your TV (and you) if you try to hang it all by yourself.

Once hung on the wall mount, secure it in place. Tighten the nuts about 90% so you can make final adjustments and check that the TV is level before tightening.

Last adjustments

After hanging the TV, you can route your cables through the handy cable management clips for a clean and organized look.

At the end you can make fine adjustments and pan, pan or tilt your TV to the perfect position and angle.

Easier to install a TV mount in metal studs

Installing a TV mount in metal posts has never been easier. By providing you with the right tools and guides, our goal is to give you the power to install a TV on any wall, however you want.

For more information on Kanto mounts, visit our blog and YouTube channel for more information and video tutorials.

Cold-formed metal framing, also known as light gauge metal framing (LGMF), has overtaken wood bar framing in commercial and institutional construction. It is also used in some residential applications. The advantages of LGMF are many, including: light weight, no warping, easy cutting and quick installation.

Cold formed metal frames come in many shapes and sizes. The most common shapes are shown below with dimensions.

metal stud sizes

The most common stud size is a 3 5/8″ wide stud. Combine this with a layer of 5/8″ gypsum wallboard on both sides and you get a 4 7/8″ thick wall.

Manhole Wall/C-H Bolt Sizes

Shaft wall is used when only one side of the wall is accessible, e.g. B. in mechanical shafts where there is no floor on one side of the wall. The 1″ portion of the stud holds a 1″ manhole liner that can be installed from the bottom side of the wall; Fasteners are not required to hold the manhole liner in place. After installing the shaft lining, the plasterboard is installed as usual from the bottom side of the wall. The taller leg of the J-Rail attaches to the manhole side of the wall to hold the manhole liner in place.

Sizes for metal cladding

Both DIN Rail (left) and Zee-Furring (right) are used to attach gypsum wallboard to a concrete or CMU block wall.

I wouldn’t even consider making them in this size without noggins and I certainly wouldn’t accept them.

The noggins prevent twisting and increase overall strength, also for attaching plasterboard and supporting things like shelves and brackets.

In fact, if there’s any chance of anything being attached to the wall then even more support would be a good idea at this stage

I would also bet in 2 rows as Kiab says.

Click to expand…

Metal stud sizes are not commonly known. Finally, most homes use wood posts, not metal. But sometimes it’s good to know the average dimensions and the distance between them. Read on to find out more.

Disclaimer: The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only and should not be construed as legal, financial or DIY advice. We strongly recommend consulting a professional before attempting any DIY work or repairs.

Metal posts are used in the construction of everything from tree houses to warehouses. There are many sizes of metal studs that you can use as they are used for a variety of projects. They are the preferred material for constructing the walls of a structure as they are lightweight and durable.

There are many different sizes of metal studs to choose from. We have broken down the numeric list into material thickness, flange width and component depth. Using these measurements will help you find the right one for your project.

Standard sizes for metal studs

Metal stud sizes vary in width, thickness and depth. It is important to consider the thickness of the frame, the size of the webbing and the size of the flange. The webbing in metal studs is the space between the studs where plumbing and electrical wiring resides.

You also need to consider the flange size and the lip size, both of which are other measurements of the metal stud that can affect their size. The flange is the area where you will apply drywall or other enclosing material to the stud. The lip is the part of the bolt where they connect with a screw.

Steel frame thickness

You need to know how thick the metal studs need to be for your project. In general, the thicker the metal, the more durable the project. Because heavy projects require a stronger foundation.

Here are some examples of metal stud sizes in terms of thickness:

26 gauge (0.551 mils)

24 gauge (0.701 mils)

22 gauge (0.853 mils)

20 gauge (1.006 mils)

18 gauge (1.311 mils)

16 gauge (1.613 mils)

14 gauge (1.994 mils)

The higher the gauge number, the thinner the bolt. The thicker the bolt, the stronger the structure becomes.

Various flange sizes and lip sizes

Flange sizes are expressed in 1/100th of an inch and thickness is expressed in 1/1000th of an inch. This unit of measurement is also known as “mils”.

Here are some typical flange sizes:

1 1/4 inch (31.75mm)

1 3/8 inches

1 5/8 inch (41.3mm)

2 inches (50.8mm)

2 1/2 inches

3 inches

3 1/2 inches

The lip size is also one of the most important things to know as it determines how the parts of the metal studs fit together. Here are a few typical metal stud sizes in relation to lip size.

1/2 inch (12.7mm)

3/4 inch (19.1mm)

Different web sizes

As with thickness, flange size and lip size, webbing size is critical to the successful outcome of your project. Knowing what size webbing you need for your metal stud is one of the most important aspects.

The webbing determines how far apart your cleats are spaced. Below are some standard webbing sizes:

1 5/8 inches

2 1/2 inches

3 1/2 inches

3 5/8 inches

4 inches

5 1/2 inches

6 inches

8 inches

10 inches

12 inches

14 inches

16 inches

As with any DIY project, it’s best to research as many sources of information as you can find before beginning the project. Here are some things to keep in mind during this process:

Now that you’ve covered all the basics of the many types of metal stud sizes, think about what type of project you’re doing for the right size stud.

For example, if you are building a small children’s playhouse in the backyard that needs to endure a bit of weather, a smaller thickness stand would be fine.

If you are building a full-fledged house for a family of four, then a metal stand with a wider web and greater thickness would be required for stability.

An example on the scale is something like a commercial retail building with many floors. These buildings require the most durable metal studs with wide web sizes, thick studs, and larger flange sizes.

things to consider

No matter the size of your project, you need to know all about what type and size you need. You have to watch out for anything that could turn your project upside down because you chose the wrong size.

Here are a few things to keep in mind when taking on such a project:

Price point – make sure you’re not sacrificing quality to get the job done on a tight budget

Find the best brand for your project

Decide on the size based on this research

Make sure you get the right size for your project or it may not last

Consult another source for help installing metal studs or deciding which studs to use

Make sure you not only know how to install the metal studs, but also how to enclose the walls after the studs are in place

Use a spirit level to make sure it’s straight if you’re working on a curved area

frequently asked Questions

Now that you know a little more about metal stud sizes, here are some common questions you might come across as you start working on your project.

How much do metal rivets cost?

The price can vary from store to store, but generally they range from $6 to $20 per stud. The price depends not only on the material, but also on the size of the ear stud.

Another general rule of thumb for metal stud prices: It costs about $8 to $13 per square foot to build a house. Again, prices can vary based on many factors. For easy DIY projects, you can find metal studs in a variety of sizes at retailers like Home Depot and Lowe’s.

Metal studs range from $6 to $20 a stud at these retailers, so keep that in mind when setting your budget for your project. These dealers also offer a comparison option on their websites. The tool allows you to compare different sizes and their uses before purchasing.

How to mount metal bolts?

Metal posts are installed with screws and brackets to form the structure. The retailers that sell metal studs like Home Depot and Lowe’s also sell the screws needed to complete the project. You should use a ceiling and floor stand for any metal stud project.

Make sure you do this step first and then insert the individual studs that make up the wall. Once you have them installed, use drywall or another wall-like material to close off the area.

Read Next: How Much Does It Cost to Have Someone Finish the Drywall?

Why are metal cleats better than wooden cleats?

There are many answers to this question, but the main reason is that metal cleats are lighter and cheaper than wooden cleats. They are also more durable in the long term. Metal studs take less time to install, saving you time and energy on your project. Also, with wood prices at record highs, metal offers a more cost-effective alternative.

Do metal bolts rust?

If the material is galvanized metal, it will not rust. Many dealers offer warranties for this type of wear and tear. You can find this information on a company website from which you purchased your tools. Here is an example of the Inno Metal Studs guarantee.

Do I need to cut the metal studs to fit my project?

Usually you have to tailor your cleats to your needs. You can do this by cutting them one by one with airplane scissors. The alternative is to cut them in bulk with a circular saw.

It is also possible to customize metal studs to a project by making small, evenly spaced incisions in the metal. Always use caution and the necessary safety precautions when cutting metal.

What is the best way to mount the cleats?

The best way to install your metal posts is to install the floor and ceiling rails first and then fill in the rest of the frame. Again, make sure you have the right size for your needs and the right size screws and nails for the wall.

Click here to see more frequently asked questions. What sizes are stud earrings available in? The most common lug sizes for a home are 2×6 and 2×4. In homes with 8-foot walls, the studs are 92 inches apart. In homes with 9-foot walls, the studs are 104.5 inches apart. How wide are steel bolts? Most major hardware stores carry 3-5/8 inch wide studs (which are comparable to the dimensions of 2×4 lumber) made of 25 gauge steel in lengths of 8 to 10 feet. How strong are metal bolts? Metal studs are typically supplied from 25 gauge steel with 1 1/4 inch flanges and are intended for non load bearing walls. You will need to visit an industrial supply store for heavier bolts. How wide is a 6 inch metal stud? A 6 inch metal stud measures 6 inches on its long side. This equaled 1 5/8 by 4 inches. Are metal studs nominal dimensions? No, metal posts are specified by actual size, not by face value (as you are used to with wood). For example, a 2×4 is actually 3-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 inches.

Which metal stud size is right for your project?

You learned about the different sizes and uses of metal bolts. Now it’s time to decide what works best for your project. Be sure to consider how much it will cost, how expansive the space is, and whether you have all the specs needed to buy the exact size stud you need.

Take measurements to the dealer for expert help if you are unsure. Metal posts are a simplified method of building walls than wood posts. You can add lighter materials to your renovation project in a timely manner by using metal studs instead of wooden studs.

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A partition may be defined as a wall or partition made of brick, studwork, glass or other such material and used to separate one room or part of a room from another. Partition walls are designed as non-load-bearing walls. It can be a foldable, collapsible or solid wall.

Prerequisite for a good partition wall for your structure

Thin cross-section so that maximum floor space can be used.

Provide sufficient privacy and noise protection in rooms.

Manufactured with light, solid, uniform, homogeneous, durable and soundproof materials.

Simple in nature, simple and economical in construction, with suitable coherence with the type of building structure

Offer sufficient resistance to fire, heat, moisture, white ants or fungi, etc.

Rigid enough to absorb the vibrations caused by loads.

Strong enough to support plumbing fixtures and heavy fittings.

Different types of partitions for your building structure

Brick partitions

Brick is a clean natural material that does not pollute the environment. Bricks are fired at temperatures so high that organic materials are eradicated. Brick partitions are made of only plain bricks and can be of three types. such as B. reinforced bricks, bricks with knobs or hollow bricks. The height of a simple brick partition with half brick rigidity is no more than 2 m. Reinforced brick partitions reinforce the shape of wire mesh or iron or steel bars. The brick-walled partition consists of masonry built up within a scheme of wooden elements. Brick is inorganic and absorbs moisture better than other building materials. This combination minimizes the risk of mold and dust mites.

Glass partitions

Glass partitions are popular for customizing the look of a room. Glass walls are usually panels mounted on a pre-assembled frame. It is very easy to disassemble and move glass panels to recreate rooms. You can even create new spaces and separate areas around your living room and kitchen by moving pre-installed glass partitions. Glass partitions are much easier to assemble and disassemble, which reduces construction costs, especially when rearranging the room. And above all, glass is an easy-care material. It doesn’t rust or corrode over time, and termites don’t find it appealing, unlike wood, which needs to be replaced frequently. Unwanted stains and streaks can be easily removed with the help of glass cleaner and a microfibre cloth. Due to the reflective properties of glass, light adjusts to make rooms appear large and spacious.

Mud brick partitions

Clay block partitions are made of clay or terracotta and can be either solid or hollow. Hollow clay blocks are commonly used for lightweight partitions. They are good insulators of heat and sound. They are also fire resistant. The hollow bricks are usually 30 cm long and 20 cm high and 5 to 15 cm wide. The blocks are grooved on the top, bottom and sides. Grooves provide rigid connections and serve as a key to plastering. The blocks are laid in cement mortar. The blocks can be made in any shape and size desired, but their usual cross-sectional size is 30 cm × 20 cm and the thickness varies between 5 cm and 15 cm. The blocks are designed with grooves that help to firmly connect the different blocks together.

Concrete partitions

Concrete partitions consist of concrete slabs, plain or reinforced, that are laterally supported between vertical members. It can be either prefabricated or cast on site. Special concrete posts are used for the construction of prefabricated concrete partitions. Cast-in-place partition walls are usually 80 to 100 mm thick and are cast monolithically with the intermediate supports. Such partitions are rigid and stable in both vertical and horizontal directions. However, such partitions require more expensive formwork. Prefabricated panel units are commonly used for partitions. These panels can be quite thin (25mm to 40mm) and are attached to prefabricated posts. The commonly used concrete mix is ​​M 15 (1:2:4). The joints are filled with cement mortar. Another form of concrete partition is made from prefabricated T-shaped or L-shaped units. A lightweight, hollow partition is obtained without the need for vertical posts.

Partition walls made of straw boards

Strawboard dividers consist of a solid core of pressed wheat (or rice) straw covered with recycled paper bonded on both sides with non-toxic, water-based glue. A standard sheet of straw measures 4 feet by 8 feet by 2¼ inches thick and weighs 120 pounds; Custom sizes are also available, ranging from 1 to 3 inches thick and from 3 to 12 feet long. Straw panels are an excellent alternative to wood for frame construction, internal partitions, floors, structural and non-structural ceilings, roofs and prefabricated buildings. During the manufacturing process, high pressure and temperatures of up to 240°C force the straw to release a natural resin that binds the fibers together. The high density and low oxygen content of the resulting panels make them fireproof and do not emit flammable fumes as they contain no added resins, alcohol or other chemicals.

Plasterboard partitions

Plasterboard partitions are made from plaster of paris or plaster mixed with sawdust or other fibrous material to reduce its weight. They are cast in molds 1-2 m long, 30 cm high and 50-100 mm thick. The surfaces of these panels can be smooth or rough. Rough surfaces serve as a key to plaster. Smooth surfaces are not plastered. 5 cm to 10 cm thick panels are made in iron or wooden molds. Suitable grooves are provided in the plaster boards to form rigid joints. Nails and screws can easily be driven into these plates.

Metal slat partitions

Metal batten partitions are lightweight, fireproof and strong. They are easy to construct and move. The insulating material is filled into cavities. Used for office and industrial buildings. Metal batten partitions are constructed by placing 2cm or 2.5cm gutters vertically (called cleats) and attaching a metal batten to one side. The plaster is then applied on both sides. If the hollow partition is required, metal battens are attached to the channels on both sides, and then plastered. Metal batten partitions are thin, strong, durable and significantly fire resistant.

Partition walls made of asbestos cement

Asbestos cement panels are made from asbestos cement panels and fixed in the wooden frame. These are lightweight, impermeable, durable, waterproof and fireproof. The panels are placed in position and bonded with cement mortar. These are usually adopted in works of a temporary character. The panels can be attached to either one side of the frame or both sides. Such partitions are economical, light and quite strong.

Wooden partitions

Wooden partitions are lightweight and easy to construct, but they have some disadvantages. They are neither soundproof nor fireproof and can be attacked by moisture, which can lead to insect infestation. There are two types of wooden partitions: standard and half-timbered. Standard partitions have vertical members or posts placed between the higher horizontal (header) and lower horizontal (balustrade) members. Truss partitions are self-supporting and are used when you need to build a partition on a floor above the first and there is no support like another partition below.

Double glazed window partitions

Double-glazed window partitions are used for soundproofing. The air gap between two discs is kept at 50 mm or more. Structural glazing dispenses with the use of vertical profiles. The room-defining all-glass system is perfect for high-quality workplaces, executive suites, banks, insurance companies and rooms that require a high degree of discretion.

Movable and portable partitions

Movable partitions are used where the walls of a room are frequently opened to form a large floor area. The portable partition has two solid wall end panels that provide support, rigidity, privacy and noise reduction. They fold up and are on wheels, allowing for portability and easy storage.

Conclusion

Partitions can offer good flexibility, especially when it comes to lightweight, framed systems, as wall positions can be changed relatively easily and inexpensively without affecting the overall structure of a building. Depending on the type of construction, it is possible to reuse some or all of the wall’s components in another location.

Image source:

Pinterest.com, Indiamart.com, Civilprojectsonline.com, Slideshare.net, Indiaprecast.com, Crystaliaglass.com, Pixcove.com, constructionor.com, gharpedia.com, Hush Interiors

Metal Rivets: Use and frame with metal rivets

Tools and techniques for building basement and partition walls with steel studs.

Family Craftsman You will like steel frames. Steel bolts are perfectly straight, will not shrink or chip. They are lightweight, easy to store, resist fire, insects, and rot. Steel stands are cheaper than wood. You may also like: TBD Time Several days Complexity Beginner Cost varies

metal bolts against wood

As the supply of quality lumber decreases, steel studs will increasingly replace their wooden stud cousins ​​in residential construction. You’ll like steel framing for the many advantages it has over wood: Steel posts are perfectly straight. They don’t shrink or split. Steel Bolts are lightweight and easy to store, and they resist fire, insects, and rot. And you’ll love the fact that steel posts are around 30 percent cheaper than wood.

At first you will find that framing with steel posts is slower than with wooden posts because you are working with unfamiliar materials, techniques and tools. But once you get the hang of working with steel, it’s very user-friendly. If you make a mistake, you can simply unscrew the steel parts and quickly get back on track. To get you started, we’ll show you how to build a small, non-load-bearing wall.

setup

You probably already have most of the tools needed for steel stud framing. These include a tape measure, straight-cut aviation metal scissors, a plumb bob or 4-foot plumb line. level and a drill (preferably cordless with variable speeds and multiple clutch settings) with a 2-in. Extension bit holder. Spend $30 more for these additional “must-have” tools: C-Clamp (Photo 3) for temporarily clamping steel bolts to rails and Sheet Metal Locking Pliers (aka “duckbill pliers,” inset, Photo 4 ) for forming tight curves in steel rails.

Basic tips for cutting steel studs and frame details from metal studs

Photo 1: Cut the metal studs and rails. Cut both side flanges of a steel bolt with straight aviation shears. Then bend a flange up – away from the jaws of the scissors – and cut across the web of the bolt. To facilitate later electrical and plumbing work, keep all keyhole knockouts aligned by cutting all steel studs to length from the same end. Protect your hands with durable gloves.

To cut individual steel studs and rails, use straight cut airplane shears (Photo 1). If you need to quickly cut dozens of metal studs and rails, use a circular saw equipped with a toothless (carborundum) metal cutting blade ($7). When cutting individual steel studs or rails with a circular saw, cut on the closed side (or “web”) and support the piece firmly on sawhorses. Protect yourself from flying sparks, acrid smoke and deafening noise by wearing safety goggles, a dust mask, long sleeves and hearing protection.

Pro Tip: A Faster Way to Cut Steel Studs To cut steel studs, cut, score, and bend both sides.

Most home centers sell circular and miter saw blades for cutting steel studs, but a pro may prefer a quieter and less messy approach. He cuts both sides with scissors and scores a line on the back. After bending the bolt back and forth several times, it ends up with a burr-free cut. No hearing protection required and no metal filings sticking to your boots. Attention: steel bolts and rails are sharp-edged. Our professional doesn’t wear gloves, but you should.

wall building techniques

Photo 2: Track Arrangement and Fastening Fasten the steel tracks to the concrete with 1-1/4-inch hex head concrete screws. Determine the position of the rail, draw chalk lines and drill a hole through the metal and into the concrete the full length of the bolt. Use a hammer drill fitted with a carbide tipped masonry bit. Adjust the screws at each end of the metal frame rail first, and then every 3 feet along the rail. Overlap the rail corners by notching the flange of the first rail to allow the overlapping rail to snap into place. For long, straight runs, overlap adjacent tracks 6 inches and secure the overlap to the floor with a concrete bolt. Photo 3: Mark, Clamp, Then Screw Connect the metal studs to the rails by clamping the two members together with C-clamp locking pliers and a 1/2-inch screwdriver. #8 pan head screw in the middle where they meet. Turn the screws at medium speed. Choose a clutch setting that is strong enough to drive the bolt in, but not so strong that it damages the bolt hole and weakens the pivot. Photo 4: Doorway Framing Techniques Construct a doorway in a structural steel and timber wall. Make the metal head by cutting the rail 2 inches longer than the rough opening width. Cut each flange of the track (on both ends) 1″ lengthwise and bend the track down 90 degrees using sheet metal crimping pliers (as shown in the adjacent photo). At the specified rough opening height, attach the head by threading two pan head screws through each web tab (which pulls the head tight to the kingpins) and then threading one screw through each flange of the rail. Inset: Creating an interlocking head joint Using metal bolt cutters, cut the flanges on the sides of the metal frame rail and bend down the inner web to create a mounting surface.

The best technique for framing steel walls is to attach the floor and ceiling rails first, then install the studs one at a time. On the floor, lay out and mark the position of the wall, attach the steel track (Photo 2) and then locate the position of the ceiling track with a plumb bob or spirit level held against a steel stud. On a finished ceiling where the stud wall frame rail is perpendicular to the joists, attach the rail to the underlying joist using 1-1/2 inch self-tapping drywall screws. With the track running parallel to the joists, secure the track to the ceiling with drywall anchors.

More wall design tips

After marking the locations of all of the studs on the ceiling and floor rails, carefully measure the exact height for each stud. This ensures a correct fit by compensating for a sloping ceiling or floor.

Using metal bolt cutters, cut the bolts to a height that provides firm contact with both the top and bottom of the rails. Gaps greater than 1/16 inch at either end are too large as they transfer the load-bearing weight of a wall to the screws.

When you mark the height and width of the doorways, allow an extra 1-1/2 inches for the height and 3 inches for the width to accommodate the 2×4 wood trestles you will add for nailing the door frame and wood paneling (Photo 4). Connect the wood trestle to the metal frame by rotating the solid webs of the kingpins toward the rough opening and attaching the wood to the metal with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws.

Pro Tips: Building Walls Don’t lay track across a doorway

Design your walls and openings just as you would with wood, but when installing the floor panel do not run the track over the door openings. You can’t cut out the opening later with your saber saw like you can with wood. Concrete screws are good for attaching the track to concrete. Use a pin to fix the top plate

Unlike wood, steel bolts are reliably straight. Cut a bolt and use this along with a spirit level to mark the position of the top board on either end and snap a line to guide placement. Don’t worry about trimming your metal studs to fit perfectly. It’s totally unnecessary. This is a great advantage when working on uneven ground. You can cut steel studs about 1/4 inch shorter than the actual measurement. Use the track to block

Head plates running parallel to beams often have to be attached to struts. You could use wood, but Joe prefers to use scraps of track instead. Just cut the sides of the rail and fold it out. Then attach the rail to the underside of the joist using drywall screws. Wooden trestles simplify the hanging of doors

Frame the openings 3 inches wider and 1-1/2 inches taller and use drywall screws to attach 2×4 bucks to the inside of the steel opening, then hang your door on the wooden bucks. The jacks are also there for nailing on the case. Slide a plastic washer under each side 2×4 if the wood will be in direct contact with a concrete floor.

Lay electrical lines

Photo 5: Steel Stud Wiring Secure the electrical wire along the centerline of each stud with plastic ties that screw to the studs. Insert a plastic bushing into each notch to prevent the cable from rubbing against the sharp edges. Plastic tie Plastic tie secures an electrical wire 2×4 self-tapping screws Locking secures with 1-1/4′ self-tapping screws Grommet Plastic electrical grommet protects wire from the sharp edges of metal studs

Home centers and electrical suppliers carry the special electrical boxes and parts used with steel frames. Because electrical boxes attached to steel studs can flex when plugging and unplugging power cords, electricians attach the boxes to blocks of wood with 1-1/2 inch self-tapping drywall screws.

Pro tip: protect your power cords and yourself. If you accidentally step on an extension cord draped over a sharp rail, you could perfectly sever your cord. To avoid potentially shocking developments, many pros take a scrap piece of track, flip it, and place it under the cable.

Installation of drywall and wooden battens

Photo 6: Install the Wood Paneling Attach the wood paneling to the underlying steel wall frame using self-tapping paneling screws. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs and mark their position on the trim piece. To avoid splitting the panel, countersink the screw head with a 1/4-inch screwdriver. a little. Then pre-drill the hole with a 1/8-in. a little. Set the drill clutch to “light” so that the screw does not strip. Screw in the screw and fill the screw hole with putty.

If your steel stud wall seems weak, remember that once drywall or sheathing is in place, it gains its full rigidity. Hang drywall or sheathing with 1-1/4-inch drywall self-tapping screws spaced every 8 inches along the edges (where two sheets of metal meet on a stud) and 12 inches on center elsewhere.

The flange on a steel stud is flexible and can bend if you try to pierce it with a drywall screw, especially when two panel edges meet on a single stud. To prevent this, attach the first panel to the open side of the metal stud (the one opposite the web) – to give it rigidity – and then hang the second panel. Grasp the back of the bolt flange near the bolt connection point with your fingers (to support it) and then install the bolt. Do not attempt to nail trim into steel studs. It won’t last. Instead, use trim screws specially designed for the job (Photo 6). When sunk, their small heads are easily concealed with putty.

Pro Tips: Install Trim Cut a notch in the blockage

Like doors, cabinets and other heavy objects need extra support. You can use plywood or 2x4s but make sure you cut a notch in it to accommodate the lip on the inside of the stud. If you don’t, this lip of the stand will push against the support plate and twist the stand, creating an arch in the wall. Build the floor panel

The base fairing can still be installed with fairing screws. If you don’t like the look of the screw heads, you can install two layers of 2×4 plates in place of the steel rail. With 3 inches of lumber under the rail, you can nail all of the base paneling just like you would a wood frame wall. Over concrete, make sure you use treated wood for the floor panel.

Pro Tips: Installing Drywall Leave the last stud loose on the inside corners

The correct method of drywalling an inside corner is to push the first board all the way into the inside corner and then attach the last stud to the wall next to the drywall. To do this, you need to leave the last metal stud loose until the drywall comes up. This method may seem a little silly, but it requires fewer studs and results in an extremely stable connection. When laying the track, be sure to leave a gap for the drywall to slide into. Also, leave the last bolt loose at “T” junctions

Similar to handling inside corners, leave the last metal stud loose against the wall, forming the stem of a “T” intersection. After the drywall is hung, the final stud on the crossing wall is attached to the drywall. Again, this method requires fewer studs and results in a rock-solid bond that’s almost guaranteed not to crack the drywall mud. Leave the top and bottom rails short to allow the drywall to slide behind them.

Buying Steel Bolts Steel bolts are sold in a variety of widths (comparable to lumber sizes), lengths, and metal bolt gauges (the lower the gauge number, the thicker the steel). They anchor the top and bottom to a steel rail (of the appropriate width) that is only available in 10ft. lengths. Use 1/2 inch. #8 pan head screws. Most home centers and lumberyards only carry the most popular 3-5/8 inch wide (comparable to 2×4 lumber) 25 gauge steel studs in 8, 9, 10, and 12 feet. lengths, along with all fasteners. These lightweight studs are designed for stud walls framing non-load bearing interior walls (walls that do not support floors or roof). If you can’t find steel posts at your local hardware store or lumberyard, contact suppliers who supply builders (check the Yellow Pages for “Drywall Equipment and Supplies”). These suppliers have a wide range of widths and thicknesses for everything from non-structural exterior walls in existing basements (1-5/8 inches wide) to structural exterior walls (up to 5-1/2 inches wide). . wide). Choose the right screws

Don’t use drywall screws to screw your studs together – they’re not designed for that. Button head frame bolts work best. Concrete screws are great for attaching the bottom rail to the floor. And make sure you use fine thread drywall screws to hang the drywall.

Required tools for this project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project ready before you begin – you’ll save time and frustration.

chalk line

Rechargeable drill

percussion drill

ear protection

Even

safety goggles

sawhorses

stepladder

tape measure

Wire Stripper/Cutter

Materials required for this project

Avoid last minute purchases by having all your materials ready in advance. Here is a list.