Metallic Blue Spray Paint For Bike? Top 50 Best Answers

Motorcycles come in all shapes, sizes and colors. With many options for paint colors alone, there are endless possibilities when it comes to personalizing your motorcycle. But the color of your motorcycle also plays a role in your safety due to visibility.

White is the safest color for a motorcycle. Other colors can also be safe, but it’s important to have a bright and contrasting color that will draw attention, day or night, and be visible to other drivers on the road. Retroreflective colors on your motorcycle and/or clothing are also ideal.

That being said, there are many different ways, as well as many other habits you can form and choices you can make to ensure you are as visible and as safe as possible when driving. We’ll discuss some more of these things in detail below.

Why is motorcycle color important?

It is well known that people see different colors with varying degrees of ease and difficulty. We are most likely to notice things when their colors contrast with their surroundings. Because of this, soldiers and hunters use camouflage colors to blend in with their surroundings. We’re more likely to see colors that contrast sharply with their background and fewer colors that blend in.

This principle applies in all situations where visibility is an issue. On motorcycles, colors that contrast with the surroundings are seen much more easily, while mixed colors, especially at night, can significantly reduce visibility.

Visibility can save your life

When riding a motorcycle, one of the most common causes of accidents is the negligence of other drivers when a car fails to see a motorcycle. Around 40% of all motorcycle accidents are due to a driver not seeing a motorcycle.

So visibility could save your life. Not all accidents involving an unseen driver are fatal, but many of them are. Other riders cannot always be trusted to be vigilant, so doing everything in your power to be seen is paramount to your personal safety as a motorcyclist.

Research from 2007 suggests that black cars were more than 10% more likely to be involved in accidents than white cars. Other high-risk colors are silver and gray, while red and blue cars were much safer overall, although not as safe as white ones. Although this study was conducted with cars, the logic still applies to motorcycles.

Contrasting colors

However, what really matters when it comes to visibility is the color of your surroundings. The key to visibility is how different your bike looks from its surroundings. If you live in a city or in the country, a white motorcycle should stand out pretty well during the spring and summer months. However, if you’re driving in a snowy area, it clearly won’t be as noticeable.

The ambient contrast changes depending on the location. If you live in the desert where there is no green at all, a green motorcycle would easily stand out from the surroundings. However, if you live in the country or somewhere else with lots of greenery, suddenly that color won’t contrast as much.

If you want the best color for motorcycle visibility, you need to be aware of where you ride most often and what colors are most commonly seen in those environments. If you can get a motorcycle that stands out from these as much as possible, you will be as safe as possible. You clearly won’t be able to stand out from everything around you, but it’s all about increasing your overall visibility.

What is the most popular color for a motorcycle?

The most popular color for a motorcycle is black, which is actually the least safe. Black motorcycles are among the most common on the market and are popular with many riders. Even though black isn’t the main color of the bike, many on the market have black parts somewhere.

Black

Since I’m not particularly fond of black bikes, I can’t quite understand the reasons that make them so popular. For some, a black bike symbolizes class, luxury and power, and as much as I don’t always prefer them, sometimes black bikes look very sleek and cool. Also, black bikes don’t get dirty as easily as light-colored bikes.

Red

Red is another popular color, especially on sportier bikes. Red is one of my favorite vehicle colors overall. A lot of people think that red is the color of speed and I’m not inclined to disagree! Red bikes feel like sporty, high-performance machines, and the color makes them appear faster to some owners – even though they clearly aren’t!

White

White motorcycles are also fairly common and are notable for being often the safest motorcycle color. They are favored by those who like to be visible and sometimes by those who like the looks. White motorcycles can often symbolize luxury and elegance. However, they tend to get dirty quickly, much more so than darker colored bikes. So keep that in mind if you are considering buying one.

It’s more common to see other colors like silver and gray these days, although you might not see them as often on older bikes. You’ll also see various shades of blue and sometimes green (especially Kawasakis). Of course there are many other colors for different bikes, but they are not that common. Most bikes also include multiple colors in their paint jobs.

Are colorful motorcycles safer?

Light colored motorcycles are generally safer. The safest color for a motorcycle is the color that contrasts most with the environment in which the motorcycle will be used. In many cases, white is the best color because it contrasts easily with a dark road surface.

night riding

The other obvious advantage of light colors, especially white, is driving at night. When driving at night, visibility for all road users is significantly restricted. Having a brightly colored motorcycle can greatly increase your visibility to others. And again, the more visible you are, the safer you are.

contrast with darkness

In most cases, your surroundings will be at least somewhat dark. Most roads are made of darker materials such as asphalt. With these road surfaces, a light motorcycle is easier to see than a darker one as it contrasts well with the dark road surface.

What is the safest color for a motorcycle?

White is usually the safest color for a motorcycle. This will not always be true, but it is mostly the case. A contrasting color to the motorcycle’s surroundings is safest and often white contrasts best, especially when riding at night.

There may be some exceptions to this rule. If you are driving in a snowy environment or in a place with a lot of white scenery or buildings, white may not be the safest choice. In these situations, a yellow seems like the next safer choice, or maybe a bright orange.

Bright colors

Other lighter colors like red or blue would probably be ranked after that. They’re not as easy to see or as certain as some of the lighter colors, but they still outperform darker colors like black, silver, and gray.

Silver, gray and especially black are the least safe colors for a motorcycle. Black motorcycles tend to blend in with their surroundings, such as B. dark road surfaces and dark buildings in urban environments. Black motorcycles are even harder to spot at night, even when lit, as they can blend in with the night sky or dark road surface.

Of course, riding a white motorcycle isn’t always practical or desirable. You will choose a motorcycle that suits your riding style, experience and personal preference, and you probably won’t choose one just because it’s a supposedly safer color. That’s why you can still do a lot when riding a motorcycle to be as visible as possible to other road users.

5 tips to stay visible while riding a motorcycle

1. Wear bright colors

Aside from the color of the bike itself, the next thing to think about is what you wear when you ride it. From many angles you may be just as visible, if not more so, than the bike itself. So what you’re wearing can mean the difference between someone seeing you and not.

Colorful clothing is much more visible than dark clothing. Although many motorcyclists prefer to wear black, it’s not the best choice when safety is your concern, especially at night. There is no rider less visible at night than the rider with a black motorcycle, black helmet and black clothes!

With any piece of gear, from your helmet to your boots, the lighter and more visible the clothing you wear, the more chance you have of being seen. Especially helmets, which are a rider’s highest point on the road, really benefit from a visible color. On a dark street at night, a black helmet without reflectors can be just as invisible.

2. Use retroreflection whenever possible

There are different types of reflection. When a mirror reflects light, it sends it in a different direction. A well angled mirror allows us to see backwards without having to look in that direction (like our motorcycle’s mirrors). However, retroreflective materials reflect light back directly at the source, regardless of angle.

Retroreflective materials aren’t very good at giving us accurate images of other areas, but they’re very good at illuminating what they’re attached to. If you drive at night, you may find that traffic signs are much easier to see than many other things on the side of the road. Because they’re made from retro-reflective materials, they reflect your headlights right back at you.

This technology is very useful for motorcyclists as visibility is one of our top safety concerns, especially at night. By wearing retroreflective gear we make ourselves much more visible. The light sources such as street lamps and car headlights illuminate our retroreflective gear, making us much more conspicuous to other drivers.

Incorporating as much retroreflective riding gear as possible into what you wear while riding could save your life. The amount of illumination and visibility you gain is priceless. I cannot recommend retro-reflective paints enough as the difference in visibility alone in low light and at night is easily worth it.

3. Use bright lights

Another way to increase your visibility is to make sure your lights are bright enough. While many newer bikes come with lights that are already very bright, older bikes may not. You can gain a lot of visibility by replacing your old lightbulbs with newer and brighter lightbulbs. Not only do these help other drivers see you, but they can also help you see things better at night.

Even if your motorcycle is already equipped with bright lights, it’s often not a bad idea to add a light or two. Check to see if this is legal where you live, but as long as the lights are standard colors and brightnesses it should be legal in most places.

4. Have spaced running lights

Another thing to consider for driving safety and visibility is the spacing of your lights. First of all, your motorcycle should have running lights, without headlights and taillights. These should always be on and are often in the same bulb as your turn signals, only your turn signals will flash and be much brighter.

Assuming you have running lights, you can improve your vision immensely by making sure they are spaced sufficiently apart. Many motorcycles have their running lights right next to the headlight or taillight, and so the bike can appear smaller than it is, although it will still register as different lights to other motorists.

The distance of your running lights from the center of your bike can have a big impact on how big and obvious the bike looks, especially at night. Having them well off center will make your bike look much wider than it actually is, or at least as wide as it really is. This makes your bike much easier to see for other riders.

5. Position yourself sensibly

The last thing I want to mention about promoting visibility when driving is to think about where you place yourself on the road. Lane position can be a determining factor in whether or not you are seen. The safest track position depends on your situation. As a general rule, you should always try to place yourself where you think you will be most visible to other drivers.

If you are following a car on the road, make sure that not only they but also other drivers can see you. If you follow a car too closely or hide behind it, another driver behind that car may turn around, thinking no one is there, and could hit you.

You also need to consider blind spots. Cars have many blind spots, and while drivers should always check them, they don’t always do so. Even so, a small motorcycle could be difficult to spot when lingering in a car’s blind spot, even with a driver checking it regularly. You should never rely on the competence or awareness of other drivers for your own safety!

It is best to avoid a car’s blind spot as much as possible. If you must pass it, announce your passing and do so quickly. Under no circumstances should you stay within this zone, because the longer you are there, the greater the risk of an accident.

Final Thoughts

White is usually the safest color for a motorcycle as it contrasts well with most backgrounds. White is also easiest to see at night. But no matter what color you choose for your motorcycle, wearing retroreflective gear and using lights to your advantage will ensure you’re always visible.

Learn how long to wait before recoating your project with spray paint.

Working on your project before the recommended drying time has passed will compromise a smooth, quality finish.

Remember that if your project requires the application of multiple coats of spray paint, the required spray paint drying time will not begin until after you have applied your last coat.

Krylon ® spray paint drying times vary by product. So be sure to check the label on the can for specific drying time instructions.

Looking for more advice on cleaning your paint spray nozzle? Ask Krylon to get answers to your specific questions.

To ensure the continued quality and performance of your Krylon product, make sure your aerosol valve is completely cleaned before storage.

If your Krylon aerosol can is clogged, follow these steps to safely unclog your Krylon aerosol can:

Clean your spray paint valve and prevent your spray can tip from clogging by following these simple steps:

Looking for more advice on cleaning your paint spray nozzle? Ask Krylon to get answers to your specific questions.

To ensure the continued quality and performance of your Krylon product, make sure your aerosol valve is completely cleaned before storage.

If your Krylon aerosol can is clogged, follow these steps to safely unclog your Krylon aerosol can:

Clean your spray paint valve and prevent your spray can tip from clogging by following these simple steps:

Still have questions about applying spray paint evenly? Ask Krylon.

For smoother results, we recommend always applying a coat of Krylon primer before applying spray paint. Below is a list of Krylon primers to get you started:

Follow these simple tips to ensure your Krylon ® spray paint is applied evenly to your project every time:

Want more expert advice on spraying the hardest-to-reach areas of your home and projects? Ask Krylon.

The EZ Touch 360° dial spray tip is designed to easily maneuver around your project. Adjust your EZ Touch 360° Spray Nozzle to expand into hard-to-reach areas or coat wide spray areas by rotating the nozzle vertically, horizontally, or diagonally.

Krylon ® recognizes that all spray paint projects are unique and therefore a flexible approach to product application may be required. In response to your need for adaptable comfort, Krylon has developed a nozzle that can handle projects small and large, short and wide.

Still have questions about avoiding paint spatter? Ask Krylon.

If overspray has occurred, learn how to remove Krylon spray paint.

For added protection from spray painting, Krylon ® suggests building your own “spray booth.” Create a spray booth for your smaller spray painting projects by turning a large cardboard box on its side and placing your object inside before applying Krylon spray paint.

Overspray can occur both indoors and outdoors. Depending on your project and the location of your spray paint area, there are several materials that can be used to mask surrounding surfaces and protect them from overspray, including:

If air bubbles from the spray paint are released on the surface of your project, do the following:

In addition, we recommend applying several thin coats by following these application tips:

Applying Krylon spray paint in ideal weather conditions can help prevent air bubbles from forming on the surface of your project. We recommend applying Krylon spray paint when the temperature is between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit and the relative humidity is below 85%.

Still have questions about how to prevent your paint spray nozzle from clogging? Ask Krylon.

For added protection and safety, be sure to wear eye protection before attempting to clean the spray nozzle.

These precautions can greatly affect the quality of your spray paint after the first use while prolonging the use of a single can of Krylon paint.

Prevent your Krylon ® paint spray nozzle from clogging by following these simple steps after each use:

Still have questions about Krylon protective clear coats? Ask Krylon for expert advice.

Find primers specific to your project specifications by browsing a variety of Krylon products.

To reduce project time, Krylon offers Krylon ® Dual ™ Paint + Primer, which allows you to prime and paint in one step.

In general, using a primer will improve the opacity of a can of Krylon spray paint and provide additional benefits for the following surfaces:

A primer is used to prepare bare metal, wood, canvas, or other material to create a smooth surface on which to apply your Krylon ® spray paint. A primer should be used on projects to seal the surface, which will help:

Learn more about protecting digital photos with Kyrlon Preserve It! Digital Photo & Paper Protectant, ask Krylon ® .

Drying in 10 minutes or less, Preserve It! Digital Photo & Paper Protectant gives your digital photos a gloss or matte finish and more including:

Krylon ® Save It! ® Digital Photo & Paper Protectant Aerosol Spray protects your digital photos. That’s because Krylon Preserve It! Digital Photo & Paper Protectant more than doubles the life of your digital photos by protecting them from moisture and UV fading.

Still have questions about painting rust? Ask Krylon.

After your surface is clean, matte, dry, and appropriately primed, spray Krylon Rust Protector or Rust Tough Enamel onto your well-prepared surface. Apply several thin coats to avoid runs and drips. Dries in 8 minutes and is no longer sticky in 15 minutes.

Priming always helps create a smooth, even surface that’s ideal for painting. Primer also helps reduce the likelihood of color shift and increase adhesion. If you decide to apply foundation, apply several thin coats to prevent runs and drips. Rust Protector Primer dries in 8 minutes, is tack-free in 15 minutes and a top coat can be applied at any time. Rust Tough Primer dries in 20 minutes and is ready for a top coat in 30 minutes.

If you were able to remove all traces of rust with a wire brush or sandpaper, you can prime with either Krylon ® Rust Protector ™ Rust Preventative Primer or Krylon ® Rust Tough ® Enamel Primer, or you can skip the priming step as Krylon Rust Protector and Rust Tough are enamels specially formulated to provide superior rust protection direct to metal – even without a primer.

If the surface still has some rust after all loose rust has been removed, spray with Krylon® Rust Protector™ Rusty Metal Primer. This primer provides increased corrosion protection for rusted surfaces and excellent adhesion and hiding power. Apply several thin coats to avoid runs and drips. The primer is dry in 8 minutes and tack-free in 15 minutes. Top coat with paint color of your choice.

If the surface still has heavy rust after all loose rust has been removed, start with Krylon ® Rust Protector ™ Rust Converting Primer or Krylon ® Rust Tough ® Rust Fix . This primer chemically converts rust into a waterproof, paintable finish. Spray directly onto remaining rust to protect against further corrosion. Apply several thin coats to avoid runs and drips. This primer sprays on clear and dries to a black primer. Paint over with the color of your choice after 24 hours. If desired, the surface can be lightly sanded before applying the top coat.

Your surface should now be clean, matte and dry.

Dirt, grease and oil can affect paint adhesion, as can loose rust and peeling paint. Ordinary soap and water or household detergents will effectively remove most surface soiling. Remove grease and oils with a degreaser or denatured alcohol. Avoid using strong solvents on previously painted surfaces. Solvents can soften the old paint, which can then cause the new paint to wrinkle or peel off the surface. Rinse the surface and let it dry completely.

If your surface has chipped or peeling paint, remove any loose paint. Lightly sand glossy surfaces to dull the finish. Do not sand old paint that may contain lead. For more information, call the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD.

Remove loose rust with a wire brush, sandpaper or chemical rust remover. The goal is to make your surface as smooth as possible so that the new paintwork will adhere well to the surface.

Yes, you can spray paint rust. Before you paint, take the time to properly prepare your surface. Surface preparation is extremely important and is the best indicator of how long your new paint job will last.

Do you still have questions about painting garden furniture? Ask Krylon.

For outdoor wood furniture, consider applying Krylon ® Exterior Semi-Transparent Wood Stain for durability, UV protection, and water repellency. As the first and only outdoor aerosol wood stain on the market, this unique formulation offers your wood surfaces premium protection that applies smoothly and withstands the toughest conditions.

Yes, you can spray patio furniture with Krylon ® . In fact, Krylon ® Rust Protector ™ Spray Paint has been specially formulated to provide long-lasting durability to patio furniture. As well as protecting these surfaces from natural elements, Rust Protector is available in a variety of colors and finishes, allowing you to customize your patio furniture to suit your personal style.

Still have questions about spraying grass or other outdoor surfaces? Ask Krylon.

In addition to spraying grass, Krylon Marking Chalk can be used to spray surfaces such as:

Yes, Krylon ® makes it easy to spray paint grass with Krylon ® Marking Chalk, a water-based, temporary, quick-drying spray paint. Krylon Marking Chalk can be used to meet your professional and recreational needs by giving you the ease and convenience of temporarily spraying grass to outline volleyball courts, soccer fields, and even landscaped areas.

Looking for additional answers about repairing scratches on your devices? Ask Krylon ® for more advice.

Easily repair scratches, chips, and nicks on your metal appliances at home with Krylon ® Appliance Touch-Up Tubes. Your metal equipment will be dry in 10 minutes or less and look as good as new with this one-step touch-up application from Krylon.

Yes, you can spray glass with Krylon® products. Although most Krylon sprays adhere to glass surfaces, Krylon has specially formulated products to transform your clear glass projects into beautiful frosted or mirror finishes such as: B.: Krylon ® Looking Glass ® Paint

Mirror paint Krylon ® Frosted Glass Finish

Frosted Glass Finish Krylon® Sea Glass Finish Krylon Spray Paint Surface Prep Tips Before applying Krylon Spray Paint to your glass surface, prepare the surface by following these simple steps: Sand lightly with fine grit sandpaper (less smooth surfaces allow for a better Adhesion) Clean with a cling rag Apply primer to further improve adhesion (glass will no longer become transparent if a primer is used) Still have questions about spray painting glass? Ask Krylon.

Yes, Krylon® can be used on fabric or clothing. In fact, Krylon Spray Paint is a unique opportunity for you to become your personal fashion and interior designer by offering you a fun, easy, and affordable way to update your wardrobe and home furnishings. In fact, Krylon can be easily applied to the following home textiles and fashion accessories: Jeans

Jackets

t shirts

hats

tennis shoes

bracelet

earrings

Belt

lampshade

Table Linens Krylon Spray Paint Fashion Projects Whether you want to use Krylon Spray Paint over stencils to create a professionally designed look on your clothing and home furnishings, or on shoelaces to make your simple pumps the fashion focal point of your outfit, Krylon products offer endless possibilities . Ready to make a statement? Get inspired by Krylon’s fashion projects, complete with step-by-step instructions. Still have questions about fabric or clothing spraying? Ask Krylon.

Yes, you can spray paint plastic surfaces using Krylon® Fusion for Plastic®. It is a no-prep, one-step Krylon® super-stick paint designed for adhesion to plastic surfaces. Whether your plastic, PVC, or resin surface is intended for indoor or outdoor use, Krylon Fusion for Plastic offers a durable surface available in more than 35 colors. In addition to spray painting plastic, Krylon Fusion for Plastic adheres to multiple surfaces including: Wood

metal

pasture

wrought iron

hard vinyl

Glass

plaster

pottery

Paper Learn about Krylon Fusion for Plastic Spray Paint Watch Krylon How-To Videos for tips on spraying plastic surfaces and more. Do you have any questions or would you like to learn more about spray painting plastic? Ask Krylon.

Yes, you can spray vinyl surfaces with Krylon® Fusion for Plastic® Spray Paint, which only adheres to hard, rigid, non-flexible surfaces such as vinyl, plastic, PVC, and resin. Krylon Fusion for Plastic dries in 15 minutes or less and requires no sanding or priming, making it easy to refresh your vinyl project surfaces. Would you like to learn more about spray painting vinyl or do you still have questions? Ask Krylon.

Yes, you can spray wood with Krylon® products. In fact, several Krylon spray paints are available that you can use to refresh wood surfaces. Choosing the right Krylon product for your project depends on the finish, use, and location of your wood surface. Krylon® Exterior Semi-Transparent Wood Stain Spray Stain Krylon Exterior Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is the first exterior wood preservative available in a spray can. Just 15 minutes after application, the semi-transparent outdoor wood stain is dry to the touch and provides UV fade protection and water repellency for your outdoor wood projects. Krylon® ColorMaster™ Paint + Primer If you’re looking to add color to your outdoor wood projects, Krylon® ColorMaster™ Paint + Primer is available in a variety of color options. Learn more from Krylon Get instructions on how to spray wood surfaces by visiting our how-to videos section. Do you still have questions about varnishing wood? Ask Krylon.

Spray previously painted metal surfaces by preparing the project first and following these steps: Remove loose rust with a wire brush, sandpaper or chemical rust remover. Lightly sand the metal surface. Use a duster to remove dust from your metal surface, it is important to prime your project to ensure a smooth, durable finish before applying Krylon® Spray Paint. Prevent rust and corrosion by applying Krylon® Rust Protector™ Primer to your metal surface. When you want to save time and effort without sacrificing quality, use Krylon® Dual™ Paint + Primer, a formula that combines the durability of a primer and the professional finish of Krylon spray paint in a convenient aerosol can. Both Rust Protector and Dual Paint + Primer are available in a variety of colors and finishes to suit your project needs. Still have questions about painting metal? Ask Krylon.

Troubleshooting

Yes, Krylon® aerosol paint cans and their plastic caps are recyclable where recycling facilities exist for these materials. Once the contents are completely emptied, recycle Krylon aerosol cans to reduce the volume of waste in landfills and save energy. Steel Aerosol Can Recycling Instructions Follow these three simple steps when recycling your Krylon steel aerosol can: Use your Krylon product until the canister is empty

Remove the plastic spray cap to recycle separately

Recycle aerosol cans along with other containers according to your local policy. Please note that steel aerosol can recycling facilities may not be located in your area. Go Green with Krylon Discover how Krylon strives for environmental sustainability in our products, manufacturing facilities and distribution sites. Do you have any questions about recycling your spray paint cans? Ask Krylon for expert advice.

Yes, you can remove particles such as sand, dirt or grass from the still wet or sticky surface of your project by lightly sanding or using paint thinner. Severe Damage If the surface of your spray paint project is heavily covered with dirt, sand or other particles, follow these steps to remove the particles from the area: Wait for your spray paint to dry completely Remove the paint in the affected area by gently Sand or reapply spray paint with paint thinner Moderate to light appearance of particles on spray painted surface If your freshly painted surface was minimally affected by dirt, sand or other particles, follow these steps to remove them from your project: Coat the affected Spray area again with paint while still wet. Recoat the affected project area once the surface has completely dried. Need more advice on how to remove unwanted particles from your freshly painted surface? Ask Krylon for expert advice.

Yes, Krylon® Spray Paint can be applied indoors. However, we recommend applying spray paint to your outdoor project surface whenever possible. When applying Krylon spray paint indoors, we recommend you follow these safety tips to ensure your indoor spray paint area is adequately ventilated: Open all windows and doors to allow fresh air in during application and drying. Use a fan to circulate aerosol emissions toward open windows and doors Wear a painting mask for additional respiratory protection Krylon Spray Painting Safety Tips Before you begin your next interior project, learn about Krylon safety tips. Do you have questions about using spray paint indoors? Ask Krylon for expert advice.

Yes, Krylon® Spray Paint can be applied outdoors. In fact, applying spray paint outdoors is our recommended method as it ensures a well-ventilated spray area. Krylon Spray Painting Safety Tips Before you begin your next spray painting project, learn about Krylon safety tips. Looking for additional outdoor spray painting tips? Ask Krylon for expert advice.

Before applying spray paint, remove existing paint by lightly sanding the project surface. Once the existing paint is dull and the surface smooth, use a vacuum cloth to remove dust and apply Krylon® Spray Paint. There is no need to completely remove pre-existing paint as Krylon is formulated to mask previously painted surfaces. Do you have any questions about recycling your spray paint cans? Ask Krylon for expert advice.

Learn how to remove spray paint overspray by reading the “After Use” section of the Krylon Spray Can label instructions. In most cases, paint or varnish thinner removes spray paint from the objects surrounding your spray area. In these cases, follow the solvent manufacturer’s safety instructions and wash your hands thoroughly after use. Learn how to protect objects from overspray by properly preparing your spray paint area. Do you have any questions about recycling your spray paint cans? Ask Krylon for expert advice.

Reports of the demise of this site are grossly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown.com thank Harris Cyclery for their many years of support. Harris Cyclery is closed but we’re moving on. Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles and news about possible new affiliations.

options in post-processing

Paint is chipped, scratched and worn away. Paint defects lead to corrosion, which can weaken a frame. If a frame is reworked before it is seriously damaged, you can still use it for many years. How much work does it make sense to do yourself? With a steel frame, there are several good answers, depending on the time available, your workspace, and how important the frame’s appearance is to you. With non-steel frames, the options are more limited, but I’ll describe them as well. Professional bike frame builders and repair shops perform fancy, multi-colored paint jobs and complete restorations, even reproducing original decals, stripes and chrome. If you’re happy with a more streamlined appearance, an industrial paint shop or body shop can do a great job at a lower cost. I will also describe a do-it-yourself varnish that results in an ugly but very durable finish. But — 90% of the repair work is in the preparation. On a bike frame, much of this work can be done using ordinary bike tools and other simple tools and consumables, although the final preparation for painting is best left to a professional. Once the prep is complete, you can have the frame professionally refinished or give it that ugly finish I mentioned. The main example here is a homemade steel tandem frame made from scrap frames. (I described the construction of this frame in another article.)

Surface preparation

The photo on the left shows the tandem frame before I prepared it for repainting. It still carried most of the original paint, although I had stripped some areas of paint before soldering. The frame was in storage for a few years before I got around to refinishing it and there were some rust spots on the bare metal areas. The first step in preparation is to strip a frame of all components – already done for that frame before I soldered it together. Most components come off easily. Crankset, bottom bracket and headset or a stuck seat post present the biggest challenges. Articles on this page describe how to deal with them: Cranks without a cotter pin

One-piece cranks

Cup and cone bottom bracket

cartridge bottom bracket

Headset

Seatpost Keep small parts organized for easier replacement. It’s a good idea to line up the nuts, bolts, and washers of each component on a spare cable or spoke. Any modification that involves soldering or welding must be done prior to final preparation for post-processing. Now is also a good time if you’re looking to reposition the dropouts – but first check that the frame is sound – no cracks or serious dents and tolerable rust. Steel frame tubes can be replaced — worth it for a collector’s item — job for a professional frame builder. Three degrees of rust are more or less light surface rust, moderate pitting, and rust severe enough to require frame repair. Some perforated rust is tolerable in less stressed areas of the frame. Rust is common around the bottom bracket and chainstay area or anywhere there is damage to the paint – including from sweat on the top of the top tube if a bike has been used on an indoor trainer. Also check the pipes for rust. Interior rust is insidious rust. Water can enter through the open top of a stocktube seatpost or through a vent hole. If the frame doesn’t have a drain hole under the bottom bracket, drill one. This will help prevent future internal rust. The down tube, seat tube, and chainstays should all communicate with the bottom bracket shell to drain through this drain hole. If possible, there should be no pockets in which water can collect. An advanced case of internal rust – my old Raleigh Twenty Folder frame.

Salt water got in through a ventilation hole (blue arrow) and couldn’t get out

because paint clogged the bottom vent hole (my fault!).

The pipe rusted from the inside and burst (red arrow).

Priming under the paint prevents rust in small scratches (green arrows).

The hinge rusted where large areas of paint were scraped off (orange arrow). Lightly sand the rust spots with fine sandpaper – #320 grit or finer. This shows where there is deeper rust. Also peel off decals. A paint scraper or single-edged razor blade will take care of them quickly. Follow the sanding with a solution of phosphoric acid — the mild acid that gives Coca-Cola its flavor. In fact, Coca-Cola was sometimes used to clean metals. (I don’t recommend Coca-Cola for rust removal: it leaves a sticky residue and the acid concentration is low.) Phosphoric acid eats rust but not steel, and you can soak a rusted portion of a frame until all the rust is gone . Avoid getting phosphoric acid solution in your eyes; rubber gloves are also advisable – but short-term contact is harmless. You just need to wash with soap and water. The photo on the right shows two phosphoric acid products. Pink and tacky, Loctite Naval Jelly will stick to surfaces in any orientation. Better hardware stores carry this product. Purple Power Rust Remover or other aqueous phosphoric acid treatment is typically used as a wash for metal panels in body shops. You can brush this on bare metal parts of the frame to remove light surface rust and prevent further rusting, or you can soak parts of the frame in a diluted solution to remove deeper rust. A useful way to soak is to soak a rag in the solution and wrap it around a frame tube. [Note: As of 2019, Purple Power De-Roster appears to no longer be sold, but another company, Klean-Strip, offers a similar product. See the link at the bottom of this article.] Phosphoric acid can slowly eat away at brass, so use caution when using it on soldered joints. Usually the rust is gone before the solder joint is significantly damaged. The aim is to remove rust down to the bare metal. You should only see gray rust, not brown or orange. The frame may have rust spots. If they’re not too deep and not where they weaken the frame, good enough. They can be filled before painting. Another way to remove rust is electrolysis, which involves connecting the rusted part and another iron or steel object to the two terminals of a battery charger and submerging them in water. The liquid electrolyte is simple – baking soda or washing soda in water. To get a whole frame into the electrolyte solution, you can lay a sheet of polythene plastic on the floor in a rectangular frame, or use a plastic children’s paddling pool (but keep children away! Electrolysis works faster than phosphoric acid and is more convenient when there is pitting. Links at the bottom of this article lead to web pages with instructions. Reading the last paragraph on any of these pages makes me think electrolysis is safe for soldering, although I’m not sure. The phosphoric acid solution or electrolyte can washed off with clear water. If the frame is dried quickly, very little rust will occur. If a frame needs to be painted, chromed areas are likely to show some pinholes and chips, with rust spots showing through. Using padded aluminum foil will avoid scratches chromed parts – if that matters – but usually chrome is repainted rt or redone in a fancy refinishing job.Phosphoric acid will erode a scarred chromed surface, but you can still use phosphoric acid ay if you are going to be painting over the chrome. This will remove the rust underneath the chrome. The next step, blasting, removes loose chrome and roughens the surface of the chrome part to allow the paint to adhere. I recommend derusting before blasting, as blasting will not remove rust to the bottom of the deepest pits. Blast cleaning will remove most of the de-rusting fluid residue. Both Naval Jelly and Purple Power leave a residue even when washed off with water.

Removing paint and residue

We’re repairing a steel frame here. But let’s talk about carbon fiber, aluminum and titanium for a moment. Chemical paint strippers and abrasives do serious damage to a carbon fiber frame, so it’s best to leave the original paintwork in place and roughen it up slightly to allow a new paint job to adhere. Repairing a carbon fiber frame is best left to professionals from start to finish. In some cases, a repair is also possible by replacing damaged layers of carbon fiber fabric – also a job for professionals. On this page, Damon Rinard describes how he repaired a carbon fiber frame that he had already built. Aluminum is much softer than steel, so chemical paint stripping is the preferred method for an aluminum frame. Abrasive particles have been reported to embed themselves in aluminum and affect the finish. Aluminum also requires special preparation and priming. With aluminum, it’s best to send the frame to a shop that specializes in removing paint from aluminum, most often using chemicals. Titanium is often left untreated as it does not rust. Then painting is not an issue. Titanium is softer than steel, and like aluminum, any paint should be removed with a chemical stripper. Chemical strippers are highly toxic. Chemical paint stripping should preferably be carried out in a professional workshop environment with exhaust air filtration. Once the surface has softened, it can be removed with water, solvents or a mild abrasive such as steel wool or a Scotchbrite™ pad. It is common practice to remove paint from a steel frame with abrasive cleaners. Sandblasting is the generic term for this job, but sand easily erodes steel pipe. Glass bead blasting is much gentler. In larger cities there are shops that do this work. Before you take a frame to a shop—unless it’s a shop with experience working on bike frames—you need to protect surfaces that you don’t want to be rubbed or where you don’t want particles to get stuck. Partially thread old bottom bracket shells into the bottom bracket and wrap them in duct tape, install an old headset and block the vent holes with toothpicks. Adhesive tape is tough enough to withstand blasts and keep abrasive particles out of the frame. Bottom bracket taped (and already blasted) for blasting:

Duct tape wrapped around the old bottom bracket shell. In addition, you or the workshop must remove oil, grease and derusting residues before blasting. Blasting may not completely eliminate these and can drive them into pores in the metal. Deruster can be washed off with water. (The phosphoric acid leaves an anti-rust layer that will withstand a rinse). A solvent cleaner works for grease and oil. If the frame has been waxed, a specialty cleaner such as PPG DX330 Wax and Grease Remover, Sherwin Williams R7K156 Solvent Cleaner, or DuPont 3919S Prep-Sol is recommended as blasting can leave wax residue in the pores of the finish. I took the tandem frame to a local metal shop, Fortune Metal Finishing. in Needham, Massachusetts. In the photo below, Sean from Fortune Metal Finishing holds the tandem frame after blasting. Now it’s free of color. Sean holds the frame with his bare hand. Oils from his skin and other possible contaminants must be cleaned again with solvents before painting. A professional painter will do this, or you can do it again with a solvent cleaner.

odors and toxicity

Solvent cleaners, and especially grease and wax removers, are toxic and smelly. This is one of the reasons why you should leave the painting to professionals after derusting. Most household paints are now water-based. Thanks to advances in chemistry, their durability is acceptable – but they are not suitable for painting bicycle frames. Any solvent based paint will be smelly and more or less unhealthy. Some are worse than others. Consider this carefully when deciding whether to solvent clean and paint the frame yourself and where to do your work. Your smell tolerance is likely greater than that of your spouse, roommates, or landlord. After all, you get something from your work: a reconditioned bike. You only get the smells!

primer and topcoat

Any finish for steel must begin with an anti-rust primer. This works like an electric battery, but on a microscopic scale. A material is eroded when an electric current flows between it and the other material when they are wet. If the two materials are zinc and steel, the zinc will eat away and protect the steel. Primers contain zinc, which is slowly being eaten away. “Acid Etch” primer is now popular for use on auto body panels and adheres particularly well to steel, but it is not suitable on its own under some paints. If used, this should be followed by the primer specially formulated for that colour. A chip on the chainstay of my fixie. The center of the chip is bare metal

and the gray area around it is primer that kept it from rusting. . The top coat or coats prevent moisture penetration as much as possible – but a top coat alone will not prevent rust. Moisture gets in somehow, through a crack, scratch, or chip, or by absorption, and without the primer, rust will spread beneath the paint. A beautiful paint job doesn’t last forever – but with the right preparation and priming under the top coat(s) it should last for many years.

Painting, spraying or powder coating?

The three common methods of applying paint to a bike frame are brushing, spraying or powder coating. Think about how much you are willing to spend, how important the look of the frame is to you, and how much work you will be doing yourself. Paintable or sprayable surfaces are of three general types: water-based, like most common paints;

Paints that apply in relatively thick layers, or

Varnishes that use a highly volatile (rapidly evaporating and toxic) solvent and dry quickly. Paints were common on cars up until the 1960s, but are no longer widely used. Enamel is more durable. Whatever you do, you need to cover up areas where you don’t want the paint to go. The same masking you used for blasting will also work for painting, except if you want to bake the finish. Then the masking must be heat resistant. Brush You can brush paint. Brushing is easier, less messy, and less hazardous to health than spraying, but generally doesn’t produce great-looking results. Sometimes that’s not what you want anyway. This is Sheldon’s Robin Hood bike. His explanation: “Whenever I was around someone using paint, I would borrow the brush and dab a few dabs on it to deter thieves. I painted everything on it except the saddle.” More about this bike… Most paints use a petroleum based solvent and dry by evaporation, taking weeks to fully cure. Additional hardening occurs through chemical crosslinking, which builds up larger molecules. Baking can greatly speed up drying and curing, but is not a practical choice for DIY jobs. Marine epoxy paint – primer and top coat – can be purchased at marine supply stores. It largely avoids the drying problem because it’s two components that you mix together like epoxy glue. Most curing occurs within a few hours through a chemical reaction. A marine epoxy enamel coating is thick – so only a few coats are required – and very durable. If you brush it up it can get really ugly as it tends to sag and drip. However, ugliness is an advantage where it deters thieves. Since you can apply the coating yourself, the cost is low. Despite its low solvent content, marine epoxy enamel stinks and is so toxic that you should mix and apply it outdoors or in a detached shed or garage. About 30 years ago I refinished three frames with brushed on marine epoxy. The paint sagged and dripped, and I received a lot of criticism from friends for my “drizzle-painted” frames. Two of these frames are still in use, with no post-processing. The third frame was the Raleigh Twenty, which I ride on salted roads through Boston winters. After about 20 years I re-done the marine epoxy after a frame repair. After another 10 years I replaced the frame as it had rusted through from the inside as I showed earlier in this article. Here is my fixie, still ugly and rust free, more than 30 years after receiving the marine epoxy treatment. Spraying Spraying followed by air drying or baking is the traditional way of painting a bike frame. It can be anything from “rattle can” work to auto body work to very fancy artistic fades from a specialist bike refinish shop. Spraying inevitably creates overspray. Droplets of liquid paint are carried in the air. These stink and are unhealthy. There are even horror stories of workers repeatedly spray-painting the insides of their lungs until they could no longer breathe properly and had to resort to an oxygen tank. For occasional, small jobs with the rattle can, you can probably get away with spraying outdoors when the wind blows away from you, but if you use spray paint more than occasionally, you should wear a face mask — preferably not just a plain fiber face mask, but a professional respirator with dust and mist filters, activated carbon elements and a one-way exhaust valve. The mask must fit snugly against the face so that all intake air can pass through the filters. Safety goggles or goggles are also a good idea: you don’t want to get any spray on your eyes or glasses. Professional painters use a ventilated spray booth with exhaust filtration, which also minimizes air pollution. Spray paint followed by baking is the traditional treatment for everything from new cars to refrigerators to bike frames. A good spray painted finish requires multiple coats – first the anti-rust primer, then coats of paint and often a coat of clear coat to add shine. A body shop or professional bike frame shop can spray more efficiently than you. The color of choice for bicycle frames is Dupont Imron Enamel. Like this frame, for example, which Sheldon built himself – but he didn’t paint it himself like Robin Hood. Spraying two-part marine epoxy enamel is impractical for do-it-yourself jobs because it requires special equipment and careful cleaning to avoid clogging. Since sprayed epoxy droplets harden in the lungs, this poses a high health risk. I suppose you could take your frame to a boat builder to have it spray painted with marine grade epoxy for a better look and to avoid the mess and exposure to chemicals, but I haven’t researched this myself. Powder Coating Powder coating has emerged in the last few decades and uses an electrostatic charge – like that which makes a cat’s hair stand on end when you pet it – to attract particles of a powder to the object to be painted. The powder has the consistency of flour. The powder is sprayed on. The object to be sprayed in the photo is part of a machine that processes silicon chips used in integrated circuits. Oven baking melts the powder into a smooth coating. In the photo below, Joe of Coating Application Technologies in Woburn, Massachusetts, USA, stands in the company’s walk-in oven. He checked a thermometer on the side of the oven before opening the doors and stepping inside. It was only 65 degrees Celsius. During use, the temperature is 121 degrees Celsius (250 degrees Fahrenheit). In these conditions he would have avoided going inside. If you’re having a tandem bike frame powder coated, you need to make sure the oven is big enough. This is. Powder coating uses no solvents or leaves liquid overspray, making it relatively environmentally friendly and clean. It creates a strong, smooth and durable coating. A “metallic” (glittering) coating is possible. Bicycle fork with metallic (glittering) powder coating.

The steerer tube and brake hubs were previously masked

Applying the powder. Due to the special equipment, powder coating is only practical in a professional environment. Nevertheless, it is economical compared to other professional coating processes. Only two or three shifts are needed to complete a job. The first coat is an anti-rust primer. Due to baking, powder coating is not suitable for frames or forks that are partially or fully carbon fiber or have chemically bonded parts. The frame or fork must be electrically conductive – metal – but heat-resistant putty can hide rust pits, ugly welds and the like. Covering needs to be heat resistant – no duct tape or masking tape – and it’s important to remove or block any oil and grease residue inside a bike frame where it could liquify and spill out during baking, spoiling the finish. A good powder coating shop knows how to address these issues. Powder coating can be thermoplastic: it will melt again when reheated, or more thermosetting: it will permanently set when baked. Thermoplastic powder coating is particularly easy to touch up. Powder can be applied only to the area that needs touching up and then heated locally. The new powder blends seamlessly into the environment. It is possible to re-colour a powder-coated item by lightly sanding and then spraying on a solvent-based paint that dries at room temperature. Changing the color with an additional powder paint only makes sense after removing the original paint, as this would melt and mix with the new paint. Marbled surfaces might be possible if you take advantage of this, but I’ll leave the experimentation to someone else. I had the tandem frame powder coated. This is how it looked when it was finished. Well done!

Internal rust protection

Avoiding internal rust is a good first step when assembling a bike. Old Raleigh three-speed frames with the matte black finish had baked enamel inside and out, but few modern frames have internal protection against rust. There is a commercial product designed to prevent rusting in bicycle frames: J.P. Weigle’s Frame Saver. You spray it into the bike’s frame tubes, where it partially hardens and forms a sticky protective layer. A thin hose that attaches to the spray nozzle allows you to work around corners and spray into vent holes, water bottle bosses and the like. I had some problems with Frame Saver. I couldn’t figure out how to get to the inside of all the tubes on some frames. Also, the coating left by Frame Saver is so slippery that I had to tighten the seatpost clamp on one of my bikes extra tight or the seatpost would slide down. But if you’ve used Frame Saver, you probably won’t have a stuck seatpost problem. Another product that is often used for rust protection in bicycle frames is Boeshield T9. This is advertised as a protective agent, but also as a lubricant. It is sometimes used for bicycle chains. Boeshield T9 produces a waxy coating that can be removed with a solvent if required. In a bicycle frame, a Boeshield T9 coating is likely to last a few years, although it is not as tough as Frame Saver. Avoid putting any of these products on surfaces that require threadlocking compound—especially bottom bracket threads, which are difficult to clean. You can seal these with tape and leave them in place until the frame protection fluid stops leaking out. If you turn the frame again and again, the liquid is distributed in the tubes. If the frame is ever re-baked T9 will likely liquify and Frame Saver may release vapor – so it would probably be a good idea to let the frame bake before applying the finish to eliminate this problem before baking again. T9 will not catch fire at the temperatures used for baking enamel or powder coating! The seatstays and fork blades usually have ventilation holes that prevented heat-expanded air from being blown out of the soldering or welding points when the bike was built. Bike guru Jobst Brandt recommends closing them to keep water out. Good idea – but leave a drain hole under the bottom bracket. There is a link to Brandt’s advice at the end of this article. He objects to the anti-rust coating on the inside of the frame, but I disagree.

reassembly

Now you’re back to reinstalling components on the bike. The procedures are described in other articles on this website. You must first check if the paint is clogging any of the threads or bearing rings. If they were well masked, that didn’t happen, but it can happen. These problems can usually be corrected with a scraper (e.g. for the ends of the bottom bracket shell) or by running a bolt through a bolt hole. If the threads are badly clogged, you can grind the end of the screw to make it work like a tap. Avoid filing away metal, especially on the headset bearing seats.

connections

Articles by Sheldon Brown and others

Reports of the demise of this site have been greatly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown.com thank Harris Cyclery for their many years of support. Harris Cyclery is closed but we’re moving on. Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles and news about possible new affiliations.

Copyright © 2013 John Allen

Is one can of paint enough for a whole bike? – A 400ml can of paint will easily cover a typical frame and fork if you apply it with the correct technique required by Spray.Bike. Be sure to follow the spray distance recommendations and basecoat recommendations for each color as spray distances vary widely. We recommend a primer (either White Metal Primer, Marylebone or Whitechapel) when painting with any of the Fluro colours.

Do I have to disassemble the bike before painting? – Yes. You should remove all parts and tape off any areas where a part will come back onto the bike.

How do I hang the bike when painting? We recommend hanging the frame somehow so you can paint it without having to set it down. Several methods work: a bike stand, a rope through the head tube hanging from a tree or garage rafters. Make sure you access all areas of the frame. Get creative when needed.

How many coats of paint is best? – More paint is not better and too much paint will make your finish less durable. We recommend that you use the minimum amount of paint to get the job done. Painting is recommended unless otherwise stated on the product page. A coat of paint that is one coat of paint (not a whole can) with a set back to cover any light spots are areas that have been missed. We recommend painting the bike and letting it stand for about 30 minutes. Take it in a different light and touch up all the bright spots. You don’t need to add more layers if there is good coverage.

I have an old metal bike that I want to repaint. Do I have to disassemble my bike down to the bare metal before painting? – Compared to chemically stripping the entire old factory, repainting an existing paint job is preferable in terms of both prep work and the durability of the new paint job. A sanded factory paint serves as a primer. Chemical strippers can leave residues that prevent Spray.Bike from adhering properly. Sandblasting is an acceptable method of removing old paint, but you should use a primer (metal primer or cold zinc primer) as the first coat.

How to prepare a metal bike? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing metal frames by wet sanding with around 220 grit sandpaper. The goal is to provide a rough, clean old coat of factory paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw metal. Basically, the sanded factory paint acts like a primer. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone based cleaner on your bike and never use rubbing alcohol through Spray.bike.

How do I prepare a carbon wheel? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing your painted carbon wheel with wet sanding with 600 grit. The goal is to provide a rough, clean old coat of factory paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw carbon. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone based cleaner on your bike and never use rubbing alcohol through Spray.bike. Applying a thin coat of carbon primer after the frame has been sanded and cleaned can improve durability and adhesion.

What grit sandpaper should I use? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing metal frames by wet sanding around 300 grit for metal wheels and wet sanding carbon at 800 grit for carbon wheels. The goal is to provide a rough, clean layer of old paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw metal or carbon. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol to clean the bike before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone-based cleaner on your bike.

How do I know if I need a primer? – Metal Primer (Aluminum or Steel) / Cold Zinc (Steel) is only needed once you’ve gotten down to the exposed metal. You only need carbon primer if you are painting over raw carbon fiber or a resin composite frameset. If your bike is prepared for painting and still has the factory paint finish, you do not need a primer. If your bike has some exposed metal and some original factory paint after sanding, we recommend priming the entire frame.

My steel frame has some rusty spots, how do I deal with it? The best you can do is sand down those rusty spots, starting with steel wool (or similar) and working up to about 300 grit sandpaper. Try to remove as much rust as possible. Ideally you want this area to be rust free and smooth with the rest of the frame. Clean with soap and water and wipe with rubbing alcohol. We recommend a coat of Cold-Zinc Primer to prevent further rust from developing. If this rusted area is still rough after sanding and priming, you can use our finishing putty to build up/sand back the area so it is smooth with the rest of the frame.

Can I paint my mountain bike with Spray.Bike? – Absolutely. Although Spray.Bike is an amazing consumer spray paint, it’s still spray paint and, especially on a mountain bike, can be expected to get scratched. Chain slapping on a mountain bike can be particularly difficult during paint jobs, using a chainstay protector can help protect the frame from rapid wear.

What is the correct distance from the frame for spraying? –

Spot Colors: Spray the surface from a distance of 2-4 inches

Pocket Clears, Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty, Frame Builder’s Transparent Finish, Frame Builder’s Cold-Zinc, Frame Builder’s Metal Primer, Frame Builder’s Carbon Primer, Frame Builder’s Metal Plating: Spray the surface from a distance of at least 8 inches

Keirin Flake and Keirin Sunlight: Spray the surface from a distance of at least 12 inches

Frame Builder’s Top Wax: Spray onto a paper towel or soft, lint-free cloth and apply gently

How long should I wait between layers of top coat? – Drying times will vary depending on the product, how thick the paint has been applied, temperature and humidity. Generally we recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the top coat to cure. See the How To section for more information. Generally 2 hours for colors and 24 hours for top coats. We recommend a drying time of 2 or 24 hours between top coats. Cooler temperatures, thicker paint and humid conditions increase drying times.

Fluros seems difficult to work with, any tips? – The fluoros are a bit difficult to work with due to their high powder content. The biggest mistake people make with it is painting too far away. You want to be nice and close, 2-3 inches from the frame. This seems too close, so practice a little first to get the feel. We suggest trying to drip it to see where this point is. If you get a rough orange peel effect, it means the paint is basically drying before it hits the frame. It could be too hot (see website for details) or you’re painting too far away. We also recommend a light base coat (Metal Primer, Cold-Zinc Primer or one of the light colors) to bring out the bright colour. In addition, rubbing the paint off with parchment paper about 20-30 minutes after painting will help compress the paint. A few tricks for working with the Fluros:

Make sure you shake the can for 3 full minutes, you must be able to hear the ball moving freely inside

The optimal temperature for Fluros is between 55-65F. Don’t paint when it’s over 75 degrees

Sometimes the cans will spray gunk for the first few seconds, shake again for a few seconds and then spray again until you get a nice flow of paint

The biggest mistake people make is painting too far away. Practice spraying 2-4 inches from a wall or other object to feel spray distance before beginning framing

Always spray first to get a nice flow before spraying the frame.

If the paint “spits”, shake the can for a few seconds and let it run nicely against a wall or other test object again before bringing it back to the frame

Hold the can upright while spraying as much as possible. It doesn’t like spraying upside down, so rotate the frame as you paint, not the can

Paint a nice layer, let it sit and come back in after about 30 minutes to see if you have any light spots, ideally under different light conditions (take it outside or inside). Touch up the light spots if necessary

20-30min after you finish painting, rub the frame with parchment paper to compress the paint smooth

a few coats of top coat and help smooth out the finish and bring out the fluoro color

Invert the can and spray until the paint stops coming out to clean the can after each painting. You don’t have to do this every time you spray in between, just when you’re done painting and leaving it for more than a day

Do I have to sand between layers? – You don’t do it, but you can. If you do this we recommend using a fine sandpaper and being careful not to mix the colors together.

do you match in color – No, all the colors we offer are available on the website.

Help, my nozzle is clogged! – If it happens, remove the nozzle from the can and scrape off the dried paint on the outside of the nozzle. Put the nozzle back on the can, shake the can well and see if you can get it to spray. Sometimes you have to hold the nozzle down to see if you can blow through the serrated paint. This is usually enough to get the paint splashing again. If that doesn’t work, you can swap out the nozzles from other Spray.Bike cans as long as they’re the same color.

Can the keirins be used as a top coat? – Yes! The keirin is a transparent glossy top coat but with floating bits of metallic colored flakes (in the flake) or glass dust (in the sunlight) making it an excellent top coat. In general, we recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the Keirin top coat to cure.

Can I use Spray.Bike Top Coat to protect my raw frame? – Our understanding of using clear coat on raw steel is that it is almost impossible to permanently prevent rust and our clear coat certainly will not do so completely. It will definitely slow down the development of rust though, and if you’re willing to occasionally brush out some rust and spray clear again it will likely remain a cool looking finish. We recommend sandblasting or sanding with some coarse grit and cleaning with rubbing alcohol (never acetone) before spraying.

Can I paint over a powder coated frame? – Probably. However, it can be difficult to prepare a powder-coated frame well for painting, especially when it’s going to be coated with a hard, clear powder. If you can have the frame sandblasted, that’s best. If not, we recommend sanding through the top coat and making sure the frame is roughened and cleaned well to get the best adhesion.

Can I paint a raw titanium bike? Titanium is a wonderful material for bikes, but it’s notoriously difficult to paint on. In theory, Spray.Bike should work just about any type of paint as it is ultimately composed of pigment and an emulsifier (only in combinations that work really well for a spray paint.) The question really is what type of preparation is needed to make any paint adhere to titanium, and we don’t have a good answer for you on that. There are various etching processes recommended to prepare titanium for painting, but we have no direct experience. When working with steel and aluminium, we would assume that grit blasting is a good preparation for the underlying surface as it appears best with the other materials. Primer usually helps with the other materials as well, so this is probably a safe bet to maximize performance. Bottom line, it will probably perform just as well as any other color, but durability can be unsatisfactory.

Can I also paint other bicycle components with Spray.Bike? – Yes is the short answer. Painting metal parts can be a bit tricky, however, as there are a variety of surface treatments commonly used in the manufacture of components. Many parts are made from anodized alloy, which is a surface to which paint is quite difficult to adhere. Others are polished, which also leaves a slippery surface. With a little prep work – mostly careful sanding and cleaning – you can probably get paint to adhere to most aluminum parts. However, durability is another issue as parts are often even more stressed than the frame/fork and in our experience painting components often creates durability issues. We recommend using our Metal Primer before painting and you’ll be fine with a little trial and error.

Can I use your paint on plastic or fiberglass? Yes, but durability depends to some extent on how flexible the plastic is. We recommend sanding and cleaning the surface first and applying a coat of Carbon Primer to act as an adhesion aid and to help the paint flex without cracking.

I want a design on my bike. How long should I wait before adding color masking? – We recommend making sure the paint is fully cured (about 2 hours) before adding glue. That means if you can wait longer, that’s better. 24 hours is great, so leaving it overnight is great.

What kind of masking do you recommend? – We use the yellow 3M Automotive Refinishing Masking Tape. If you have a digital design that you would like created, we recommend calling your local sign shop and seeing if they can print your design on High Bake Paint vinyl or a low tack vinyl. You can use stickers, but sometimes the glue can be very strong and leave glue residue or peel the paint off if it’s not fully cured.

What if I screw up? – You could screw it up. It’s OK. It’s not the end of the world and we make mistakes too. We always say, “$hit ain’t done until you can fix it.” There are many ways to make a mistake painting a bike, especially if you’ve never done it before, but there are also many ways to make it to fix. We think that shouldn’t stop you from doing a fun creative endeavor and making the bike your own. In general, if something gets screwed up (you touch the frame when it’s wet, the masking pulls, you get a drip in your clear coat, the paint ends up being textured, or you just decide you want to start over), there there ways to make it right. Often this means sanding down the area that needs repairing, masking off other areas, and repainting. Take a look at our troubleshooting page and feel free to email us with specific questions.

How long should I wait before building the bike? – We recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the top coat to cure. This also varies. Thicker paints, especially top coats and keirins, will increase cure time, as will temperature and humidity. In general, the longer you can give it to heal, the better.

What is the return policy? – We accept returns of unopened and unused cans up to 90 days after purchase. Return shipping must be by ground, and associated shipping costs and a $5 restocking fee will be paid by the customer. Please include your order number and we recommend obtaining a tracking number for the returned package. Refunds will be processed once the product is received.

Spray.Bike

5320 14th Ave

Sacramento Ca 95820

After painting, can I restore the bike to its original factory finish? You can easily sand off the paint, but you cannot restore the frame to its original condition.

Anything else to know? It’s common sense, but it’s wise to be careful when inhaling paint fumes. We use respirators and always paint in well-ventilated areas.

Be careful with temperature and humidity ranges as this can affect paint adhesion and performance more than almost anything. Do not paint when it is hot, moderately cold, rainy or humid.

Be prepared that your DIY project will turn out absolutely awesome, but rarely turn out exactly how you expect it to.

Now have fun painting your bike!

If you’re looking to revitalize an old bike or make a splash in your cycling club, a fresh new frame color could be just the ticket. Here we look at two methods of finishing a bike frame: painting and powder coating.

Should I have my bike frame professionally painted? If you’re looking for the highest quality finish and most impressive style, you should have your bike frame professionally painted. Custom bike painters can turn bikes into works of art with stunning colors and intricate designs.

So how much does it cost to have a bike frame professionally painted? The average starting price for painting a steel bike frame is $516 and ranges from $350 to $750. The final cost is higher if additional colors and patterns are added or if the bike is carbon.

The above conclusion was reached by taking prices from several suppliers and compiling them in the tables below showing starting prices for steel and carbon bike frames.

Bike Shop One Color (USD) Two Colors (USD) Horse Cycles, NY 350 405 Chris Kvale Cycles, MN 350 Bilenky Cycle Works, PA 495 575 Premier Bicycle Werks, CA 550 Element 6, CA 600 Hot Tubes, MA 750 Average 516 490 Cost of professional painting of bikes (steel frame)

Here is a list of starting prices for carbon bike frames.

Bike Shop Single Color (USD) Two Color (USD) Premier Bicycle Werks, CA 450 Carbon Solutions, CA 600 700 R+E Cycles, WA 700 Element 6, CA 800 Hot Tubes, MA 1000 Average 710 700 Cost of professional bike painting (carbon frames )

Who has their bike frame professionally painted?

An individual finish is ideal for anyone who wants a high-quality appearance. Maybe you’re a road cyclist with an interest in style. Or maybe you are a classic car enthusiast restoring a classic bike. Then professional painting is perfect!

Can I paint a bike frame myself?

Painting a bike frame involves a number of steps, e.g. B. sanding, priming, painting and applying a clear coat. It’s quite challenging, but definitely a task most people could handle on their own.

Aside from purchasing materials, you’ll need an easy-to-clean outdoor area and some patience (some steps take a while!). Here is a video demonstrating the whole process in a simple way:

How much does it cost to paint my bike frame yourself?

Painting a bike frame yourself is an inexpensive way to get a fresh new color, and the cost is around $70.

How much does it cost to powder coat a bike frame?

The average cost to powder coat a bike frame is $151 and ranges from $50 to $275. This cost often includes sandblasting, making powder coating an inexpensive way to finish a bike frame.

Here is a price list for powder coating a bike frame.

Bike Shop One Color (USD $) Amalfi Powder Coating, AZ 50 Rock on Wheels, WY 100 Espo’s Powder Coating, NY 110 CC Coatings, OR 150 Finish Logic, CA 175 Quality Powder Coating NYC, NY 200 Seattle Powder Coat, WA 275 Average 151 cost powder coating bike frame

What is powder coating?

Powder coating uses an electrical charge to bind colored powder to the surface of an item. In powder coating, an object is sprayed with powder and then heated in an oven. This creates a smooth, durable finish for your bike frame.

What are the benefits of powder coating your bike frame?

toughness

Powder coating involves spraying multiple layers of powder onto your bike. This creates a durable finish that will withstand bumps and scratches and stay strong for a long time.

value

The average cost to powder coat a bike frame is $151, so it’s an inexpensive way to update your bike.

Surroundings

Powder coating is more environmentally friendly than other options. It is a solvent-free process that causes almost no emissions. Plus, the leftover powder can be scraped off and reused, so waste is minimal (source).

Who should have a bike frame powder coated?

The powder coating is ideal for people who need a durable bike. The powder coating creates a strong finish that can withstand bumps, scrapes and scratches (source).

Maybe you live in a city and want to protect your bike from concrete and cars. Or maybe you’re a mountain biker who worries about trees and boulders. The powder coating is perfect when you want a hard wearing finish that also looks good.

Painting versus powder coating bike frames

To answer this question correctly, it is important to consider your needs and the way you intend to use your bike.

When bold style is paramount, color is your best bet. Painting provides a thinner layer of paint, allowing intricate details and patterns to really stand out. The choice of colors and design options is also much larger.

If you need a tough bike, then powder coating is for you. Powder coating is sturdier than paint and many hold it downright bombproof! It’s the best choice for people who want a great looking bike that won’t chip or scratch easily.

What is sandblasting?

Sandblasting is when a trained operator sprays abrasive particles at an object under high pressure. The purpose of sandblasting is to remove dirt and create a smooth surface. Sandblasting is known by other names such as B. Abrasive blasting and media blasting.

The benefits of sandblasting bike frames

Sanding a frame by hand is a difficult task, and it can take days (yes, days!) to remove stubborn old paint from your frame. For this reason, some people have their frames sandblasted, a process that removes old rust and paint and strips your frame back to bare metal. It’s a quick and inexpensive way to prep your bike frame for painting or powder coating (while saving hours of hard work with a piece of sandpaper!).

Where can I have my bike frame painted?

Painting custom bikes takes a lot of skill, and if you’re looking for the best quality and the widest range of options, take it to an experienced specialist. To get an idea of ​​what spot to look for, take a look at these three custom bike paint shops:

Element 6 in Santa Ana, California: element6.us

Hot Tubes in Boston, MA: hottubes.com

Austin Paintworks in Austin, TX: austinpaintworks.com

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Everyone will have a different idea of ​​what it’s worth spending on a frame refurbishment. A rational output based on the final value needs to be balanced against the impossible-to-quantify emotional attachment some frames attract.

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At one end of the spectrum, you could just peel off all the pieces, spend time with a pot of paint stripper and emery cloth, and then repaint with the brush in whatever Hammerite color you like.

Provided you do a good job of general prep and degreasing, careful layering with cans of automotive paint can result in a superb finish. Practice before you start and wear a mask.

There’s an art to spraying a bike frame well without getting drips and bumps, and you really don’t want to inhale that drifting spray!

At the other end of the spectrum, you can pay a specialist like Argos Cycles to sandblast or chemically strip a frame and apply your choice of colour(s), new graphics and top coat.

While you’re at it, you can install disc brake hubs, chrome parts of the frame, add extra water bottle or rack hubs, or even completely replace a damaged tube.

Most specialists repair steel frames, while a minority also deal with aluminium, carbon fiber and titanium. The cost will vary depending on who you choose.

Here we overhaul the only Reynolds 853 singlespeed specific frame Canadian builder Chris DeKerf has ever built to have a high value that it wants to keep despite being left in the garage for years with a seatpost corroded in it.

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A blowtorch was used to pull out the seatpost, heat it to the melting point and pour it out in molten gobs. We also stripped the paint around the head tube to ensure the top and down tube connections weren’t damaged from falls. It was then sent to Argos Cycles, Bristol’s refurbishment specialists.

We explain what Argos did to make our old frame look as good as new…

1. Strip components

This is important to properly paint a frame. Aside from the headset and bottom bracket cups, complete disassembly is easy in most cases using allen wrenches, a chain splitter, and cable cutters.

The headset cups can be tapped out with a hammer and a long piece of metal, but a headset cup remover will work better. A tool to remove your threaded bottom bracket shells will cost around £10>£15.

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2. Stuck parts

A stuck seat post in an old frame is a common problem. In this case we had to heat the frame (with a blowtorch) to the point where the aluminum post melted.

Of course, that’s not possible with an aluminum frame, but most refurbishment specialists have their own secret methods for removing stuck parts, including bottom bracket shells and broken bottle cage bolts.

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3. Structural problems

Don’t commit to a renovation until you’ve checked all the important parts for damage. If you can remember a frontal collision, be aware of any welded or soldered joints, especially behind the head tube.

Make sure all tubing is straight and that rust spots do not affect the structure of the frame. Most renovation specialists can fix a connection or even fit new pipe, but it may not be worth the expense.

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4. Cable guides

This is also a good time to assess your cable runs. Many riders want to convert an old frame to disc brakes or install full outer cables instead of broken cables.

All of these detail changes are possible and can easily be done by a specialist like Argos Cycles while the paint is being removed from the bike. Make sure you get a quote as all the small changes can quickly add up to a lot of extra money.

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5. Bottle bosses

Adding additional bottle necks is a frequently requested change during renovation. This is easy and relatively inexpensive to achieve, and can be done even if you’re not ready for a repaint.

Ditto for Crudguard mounts under the down tube and, in most cases, threaded rack mounts on the seatstays. If you want to add threaded tabs for fenders and a rack at the dropouts, just make sure the tubing isn’t too thin at the fixed points.

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6. Seat clamps

The DeKerf frame was made with a welded, threaded seatpost clamp. Ours was fine but these often stretch with use. They can be easily removed and replaced with a slide-on all-round clamp.

We know many riders who have taken a refurbishment opportunity to upgrade that part of the frame with a support wedge, which is particularly useful for increasing the strength of a frame with an extended seat tube and long seatpost.

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7. Failures

A popular renovation conversion is replacing the wheel dropouts on a frame. This could be because the derailleur hanger has entered the wheel and damaged the dropouts, or you are having the frame converted from geared to single-speed use.

Now it’s time to start thinking about adding a disc brake mount to an old steel frame and removing the cantilever brake hubs in the process.

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8. Bottom bracket

Damaged bottom bracket threads are another typical problem with old frames. There are several possible solutions from re-tapping the threads to replacing the entire bottom bracket shell.

We once had a steel frame “cut and closed” – the underside of the shell was cut then pulled together and welded again, reducing the size of the shell slightly before tapping the new thread.

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9. Color choice

If you have the budget, anything from simple, super tough “school railing green” (our pick for the DeKerf) to fancy metallics, contrasting swatches, and gradual color fades is possible. If you’re feeling extra flush, you might even consider color-coordinating your fork and stem. A renovation specialist can usually also match original manufacturer colors.

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10. Shot peening

Paint stripping chemicals work well for DIY spray jobs or with a softer material frame, but shot/grit blasting is the quickest and most thorough method on most steel frames.

It will also highlight any issues such as: B. Rust spots that have become pinholes (these can be filled), giving you one last chance to abandon the expensive part of the renovation job if a problem is structurally significant.

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11th amendment

A popular upgrade is chrome plating on the dropouts or the entire right chainstay. Adding disc brake tabs or cable guides (perhaps for full outer cables) is also an easy task, as is replacing the rear derailleur hanger if you’ve twisted and weakened the current one when inserting your rear shifter mechanism into the spokes.

12. Tools

Logically, it’s rarely worth replacing entire frame tubes, but it’s easy to become emotionally attached to a favorite frame, so removing and replacing a badly corroded, dented, or damaged section isn’t out of the question.

A professional usually has options to vacuum or fill dents prior to a final paint job. Never assume that something is impossible. Always ask.

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Step 13: Spray Frame

Spray painting a bike frame is a skilled job when it comes to achieving a truly professional, evenly applied finish that’s tough enough to last. We’ve seen good-looking, inexpensive DIYs, but it’s difficult to get a finish that really shows off the quality of a valuable frame when you do it yourself. Just pay for a pro and think about spreading the cost over years.

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14. Decals

Most manufacturers can provide ready-made decals for frame renovations. It pays to have them professionally applied and sealed with paint as part of the repainting.

Aligning stickers and applying them without wrinkles or bubbles takes practice, and you don’t want to waste the money spent messing up the application. Most specialist renovators can supply tube decals.

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15. Completion

A coat of paint is the final touch of a professional renovation. It gives extra resilience to the paint and seals the decals. Depending on the desired effect, you can choose between glossy, matt or silk varnish.

It’s also a good time to think about covering the bottom bracket threads neatly or adding clear protective tape to protect the paintwork from cable abrasions, chain slaps or rocks spraying off the front wheel and damaging the underside of the downtube.

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16. Welcome home

In most cases a frame is ready to build as soon as you get it home, but occasionally the final coat of paint or varnish can be a little soft for a few days, so if you can wait a while it’s worth it.

Think carefully about how you are going to rebuild the bike and be sure to remove excess paint from the bottom bracket threads, head tube and seat tube. In most cases, a specialist renovator will do this for you.

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Essential tools

Allen key

chain splitter

multiple tool

hammer

metal rod

Press headset

You will need a full allen wrench set and a chain breaker for initial disassembly and reassembly. A multi-tool can be enough for everything but the headset and bottom bracket (BB) cups.

Check what tools are needed to remove and install the crankset and bottom bracket. There are different options for different units.

A hammer and a long piece of metal can work to remove the headset cups, but you risk damaging the cups if you try to put them back in without a headset press. A press costs around £35, or take the frame to your local shop and have them do it.

Best Tips

Future Proof: The expense of adding disc brake hubs to a frame can be worth it, but think about how much you’re spending on a frame with, say, a 1″ steerer designed for a short fork. Your choices of 1″ steerer stems and short forks will be extremely limited!

Check for Damage: Undoubtedly an old frame has crashed, which may have resulted in structural damage. If you’re having a frame repainted, it’s easy to strip off sections of paint to inspect tubing and connections. Crashed aluminum frames can show stress cracks that are not obvious when painted. Look closely at steel frames if you see an area of ​​corrosion that could be more than superficial;

Check the top tube connection behind the head tube before committing to the cost of a repaint. This is an area that is often damaged by frontal impacts.

before you embark on the expense of a repaint. This is an area that is often damaged by frontal impacts. It’s easy for a frame refurbishment specialist to reinforce, swap out, or rethread a seatpost clamp on an old frame. This is a common area of ​​damage or weakness.

on an old frame. This is a common area of ​​damage or weakness. If your headset cups are loose, it could mean that the steerer tube has spread slightly in an impact. A renovation specialist will be able to correct this.

was spread slightly on impact. A renovation specialist will be able to correct this. Damaged bottom bracket threads can be built up and recut. In extreme cases, a new bottom bracket shell can be installed.

Dropouts: A good frame rebuild specialist can easily replace the wheel dropouts on your frame if you decide to do a single speed conversion or need a derailleur hanger repair.

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Added Protection: The two part epoxy finish we chose for the DeKerf will hopefully prevent stone chip damage to the underside of the down tube. Alternatively attach frame protection tape.

British cycling coach Juliet Elliott shows how to paint a bike in a video on Squidbikes.com.

“I race a bike with ice on it,” says Emily Kachorek. “You don’t have to like it, but I do. And at least it turns your head!”

An elite cyclocross racer, former biologist and co-founder of Squid Bikes, Kachorek discovered her creative side early on. “I used to build bows and arrows and slingshots when I was a kid,” she says. Now she gets paid to spray paint bikes with eye-catching patterns and to create bike gear that stands out, even when covered in mud.

Squid started partly because of failure. In 2013, Kachorek worked with a bike company to design a frame to match their neon gear at the time—but the paint job came back the wrong shade of yellow. She asked the owner of the brand if she could fix it herself. “I glued the shit out of the frame,” she says, laughing. “It was neon vomit. It looked unlike anything else out there. I wondered if I would be embarrassed at the start line.”

Instead, Kachorek discovered that people liked her bold and playful style. She and her Squid Bikes co-founders sourced American-made aluminum frames and began spray-painting. “I’m an 80’s kid; I love naughty neon things,” says Kachorek. “I realized that bikes don’t look like that. They are black and red and white and blue. I like to think that we helped that culture develop a bit.”

“Not many people do that,” Kachorek says of Squid’s vibrant aesthetic. “But people connect with it.” Carl Costas

Kachorek founded Squid not only to share her own vision, but also to give other riders the opportunity to realize theirs: the company sells several frames (as well as framesets and various builds) that customers can finish themselves, or you can build the frame have them painted by Squid Bikes. Squid also sells Sprayed n Ready frames that they painted but never built. (They are usually from fairs, but sometimes they sell frames painted by selected artists.)

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One of Kachorek’s all-time favorite bikes was a creamsicle and cloud design that came to her in a dream. She painted the frame in front of an audience at a gravel road race to show how easy the process can be. “It’s our way of having fun and not taking everything so seriously,” she says. “It won’t be perfect, but it will be yours.”

Cyclocross racer Samantha Runnels from Team Squid x Eliel. Icon Sportswire Getty Images

6 tips for painting a bike

Whether you’ve always wanted to try your own custom paint job on your bike or have recently dusted off your bike due to COVID-19, giving your bike a fresh look is always a good idea. Along with Kachorek’s advice, we’ve put together some tips for a successful paint job.

1. Practice first

If this is your first time painting a bike, or if you are going to use a different color than last time, you may want to practice. You can experiment with a cheap frame that you don’t mind screwing up, or even a cheap metal tube.

2. Prepare the bike

You should make sure that the frame is ready for painting. First clean it with rubbing alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Make sure the frame is completely clean. Unless it’s raw aluminum, steel, or carbon, sand it down lightly so the paint has something to stick to. Use 1000-1500 grit sandpaper and rub just enough to texture the surface – you don’t want to completely remove any material.

3. Choose your color

It’s important to choose a quality paint that will last, so check your local art stores. Look for a low-pressure can – the slower the paint comes out, the easier it is to work with. Squid sells its own paint, Spray.Bike, on its website, and Montana paint is another good option. Whatever you end up choosing, don’t mix marks or lines, as different colors can react badly with each other.

4. Break out the tape

Place painter’s tape over parts of the frame where components will be attached: bottom bracket, seat tube, head tube, and dropouts. According to Kachorek, it works well on Squid’s aluminum frames. You can also use masking tape to mask off areas of the bike while you create your design – just make sure your base layer is completely dry or the paint could come off with the masking tape.

5. Set up your workspace

While doable, painting your bike while holding it is a hassle, so be sure to secure your frame so you can paint it without touching it. You can clamp the head tube onto a dowel and clamp the dowel into a stand, or just thread a cord or cord through the top tube and hang it from a rafter. You may also want to put a drop cloth on top to catch overspray.

6. Spray away

First, Kachorek says to shake the can for three minutes before using it. Then check the can to see how far away you should hold it when spraying. (Spray.Bike should be held closer to the bike than other paints, between 1 and 4 inches away.) Paint should be sprayed evenly and one coat at a time. Also, keep your hand at a steady pace while spraying.

Also consider the weather. Kachorek recommends painting in dry weather (most important) and preferably in warmer temperatures and lower humidity. Make sure to give the paint enough time to dry before layering different colors or applying a second layer.

And play around! The beauty of DIY is that there are no wrong answers. If you need more advice on painting your bike, check out painting tips at Squidbikes.com.

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If you have rusty patio furniture or peeling metal decorations around the house, you can restore them to look almost like new. With the right preparation and paint, you can extend the life of any metal surface while protecting it from future damage. Spray paints are convenient to use, especially on irregular surfaces, but it is imperative that you choose a product that is compatible with the item being restored. Our selection of spray paints for metal, from rust resistant to extremely durable products, will help you make the best choice.

1. Rust-Oleum Protective Varnish When it comes to spray paint, Rust-Oleum is a long-standing brand of choice for professionals and hobbyists alike. Its protective enamel spray is number one on our list for its versatility, ease of use and rust resistance. You can use this paint on metal objects, indoors and out, after applying a primer, and its nozzle applies the paint evenly with little effort. This paint doesn’t dry super fast, but the results last a long time, especially if you seal it with a clear coat. Buy: Rust-Oleum Conformal Varnish $6.98 Buy

2. Krylon ColorMaster Color and Primer Krylon’s product is available in matte and flat finishes, but we particularly recommend its metallic, gloss, and satin colors. These add varying degrees of subtle sheen to your surfaces with beautiful depth and richness. So if you are very particular about the shine of your metal, this is a great option to consider. The paints can be used for both indoor and outdoor projects and dry in around 10 minutes, allowing you to layer up your coats relatively quickly. This is technically a paint and primer combination, but it’s not specifically designed for metal, so we recommend applying another primer first for best results. Buy: Krylon ColorMaster Color and Foundation $22.04 Buy

3. Seymour High Solids Spray Paint Since the founder invented aerosol paint in 1949, Seymour has been a leading manufacturer of spray paints, particularly for commercial and automotive applications. This is an industrial paint that dries to a shield-like layer. It’s incredibly durable, not only resisting nicks, but also heat and high humidity. Use a primer for best results and you will have extra durable metal finishes that are safe to place outdoors. Buy: Seymour High Solids Spray Paint $21.99 Buy

4. Dupli-Color Metalcast Coating If you want to transform an old piece of metal into a bright work of art, we recommend this body paint from Dupli-Color. It creates eye-catching anodized effects that make surfaces appear mother-of-pearl and almost seem to shift in color. It is primarily intended for use on chrome but can be applied to other metals with the right preparation. You need to apply not only a primer, but also a primer, since this paint is almost transparent and gives the surface a special tint. But with patience and the right handling, you can achieve a high-gloss metallic look that draws everyone’s attention.

Buy: Dupli-Color Metalcast Coating $14.45 Buy

Maybe you’re renting, and you’re not going to spend $10 a closet pull. Maybe you just want to see what a brass light fixture looks like before you lose half of your monthly budget (if you’ve got money to burn, we recommend this beauty from Work Of.) What you need is metallic spray paint. Because here’s the thing about those oh-so-glamorous brass accents and lighting fixtures featured in every single one of the photos on your “Maybe My Apartment Could Look Like Today” Pinterest board: They’re expensive! And the same goes for these sparkly-cool silver cabinet knobs. But for less than the cost of just a brass cabinet handle, you can transform the interior of your home with metallic spray paint (which comes in every shade of metal imaginable).

Get over yourself first.

Silence the voice in your head telling you you’re cheap. (I heard it, too.) Done right, metallic spray paint doesn’t look cheap at all, and you can even use it to completely change up some of the fixtures you already have — meaning you have to buy less . (Renters, just check with your landlord before proceeding.) Look: the four-bulb lighting bar in my bathroom that used to be a cheap plastic eyesore and is now a cool “antique brass” finish.

Formerly white sconce and owner-selected bathroom light, now “Antique Brass” (for $6).

It’s not just about the gold.

Gold spray paint is great, but there’s a whole range of metallic shades and finishes to choose from. Rust-Oleum makes a durable, chip-resistant line that has everything from “dark copper” to “matte nickel” to “antique brass” (a personal favorite, and pulls off my kitchen cabinet’s new exterior, and it’s ridiculously affordable – $19 ! – wall light hanging in my bedroom). Some colors have a subtle sheen, so read the description (and inspect the cap) carefully to get the finish you want. Note: Most high-quality metallic spray paints are chip resistant, but if you’re painting a high-traffic accent like hardware, you’ll likely need a touch-up after a year or so.

think big

Small, detachable accents like knobs and lights—even faucets! – and are a great place to start trying metallic spray paint, but don’t stop there. It can do wonders on your sloppy flea market bookshelf (try just painting the inside); an otherwise ordinary end table (go all silver and you’ve got the blingiest bedroom around); or your entire kitchen (apply the same bookcase technique to open closet shelves). Research antiques sites like 1stDibs for traditional gilded furniture – like some Art Deco, Louis XV and Regency style pieces – for inspiration.

Is one can of paint enough for a whole bike? – A 400ml can of paint will easily cover a typical frame and fork if you apply it with the correct technique required by Spray.Bike. Be sure to follow the spray distance recommendations and basecoat recommendations for each color as spray distances vary widely. We recommend a primer (either White Metal Primer, Marylebone or Whitechapel) when painting with any of the Fluro colours.

Do I have to disassemble the bike before painting? – Yes. You should remove all parts and tape off any areas where a part will come back onto the bike.

How do I hang the bike when painting? We recommend hanging the frame somehow so you can paint it without having to set it down. Several methods work: a bike stand, a rope through the head tube hanging from a tree or garage rafters. Make sure you access all areas of the frame. Get creative when needed.

How many coats of paint is best? – More paint is not better and too much paint will make your finish less durable. We recommend that you use the minimum amount of paint to get the job done. Painting is recommended unless otherwise stated on the product page. A coat of paint that is one coat of paint (not a whole can) with a set back to cover any light spots are areas that have been missed. We recommend painting the bike and letting it stand for about 30 minutes. Take it in a different light and touch up all the bright spots. You don’t need to add more layers if there is good coverage.

I have an old metal bike that I want to repaint. Do I have to disassemble my bike down to the bare metal before painting? – Compared to chemically stripping the entire old factory, repainting an existing paint job is preferable in terms of both prep work and the durability of the new paint job. A sanded factory paint serves as a primer. Chemical strippers can leave residues that prevent Spray.Bike from adhering properly. Sandblasting is an acceptable method of removing old paint, but you should use a primer (metal primer or cold zinc primer) as the first coat.

How to prepare a metal bike? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing metal frames by wet sanding with around 220 grit sandpaper. The goal is to provide a rough, clean old coat of factory paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw metal. Basically, the sanded factory paint acts like a primer. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone based cleaner on your bike and never use rubbing alcohol through Spray.bike.

How do I prepare a carbon wheel? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing your painted carbon wheel with wet sanding with 600 grit. The goal is to provide a rough, clean old coat of factory paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw carbon. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone based cleaner on your bike and never use rubbing alcohol through Spray.bike. Applying a thin coat of carbon primer after the frame has been sanded and cleaned can improve durability and adhesion.

What grit sandpaper should I use? – All bikes are different and encourage you to do some independent research before getting started. In general, we recommend preparing metal frames by wet sanding around 300 grit for metal wheels and wet sanding carbon at 800 grit for carbon wheels. The goal is to provide a rough, clean layer of old paint for the new paint to adhere to without exposing the raw metal or carbon. We recommend cleaning your frame with rubbing alcohol to clean the bike before painting. Never use acetone or an acetone-based cleaner on your bike.

How do I know if I need a primer? – Metal Primer (Aluminum or Steel) / Cold Zinc (Steel) is only needed once you’ve gotten down to the exposed metal. You only need carbon primer if you are painting over raw carbon fiber or a resin composite frameset. If your bike is prepared for painting and still has the factory paint finish, you do not need a primer. If your bike has some exposed metal and some original factory paint after sanding, we recommend priming the entire frame.

My steel frame has some rusty spots, how do I deal with it? The best you can do is sand down those rusty spots, starting with steel wool (or similar) and working up to about 300 grit sandpaper. Try to remove as much rust as possible. Ideally you want this area to be rust free and smooth with the rest of the frame. Clean with soap and water and wipe with rubbing alcohol. We recommend a coat of Cold-Zinc Primer to prevent further rust from developing. If this rusted area is still rough after sanding and priming, you can use our finishing putty to build up/sand back the area so it is smooth with the rest of the frame.

Can I paint my mountain bike with Spray.Bike? – Absolutely. Although Spray.Bike is an amazing consumer spray paint, it’s still spray paint and, especially on a mountain bike, can be expected to get scratched. Chain slapping on a mountain bike can be particularly difficult during paint jobs, using a chainstay protector can help protect the frame from rapid wear.

What is the correct distance from the frame for spraying? –

Spot Colors: Spray the surface from a distance of 2-4 inches

Pocket Clears, Frame Builder’s Smoothing Putty, Frame Builder’s Transparent Finish, Frame Builder’s Cold-Zinc, Frame Builder’s Metal Primer, Frame Builder’s Carbon Primer, Frame Builder’s Metal Plating: Spray the surface from a distance of at least 8 inches

Keirin Flake and Keirin Sunlight: Spray the surface from a distance of at least 12 inches

Frame Builder’s Top Wax: Spray onto a paper towel or soft, lint-free cloth and apply gently

How long should I wait between layers of top coat? – Drying times will vary depending on the product, how thick the paint has been applied, temperature and humidity. Generally we recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the top coat to cure. See the How To section for more information. Generally 2 hours for colors and 24 hours for top coats. We recommend a drying time of 2 or 24 hours between top coats. Cooler temperatures, thicker paint and humid conditions increase drying times.

Fluros seems difficult to work with, any tips? – The fluoros are a bit difficult to work with due to their high powder content. The biggest mistake people make with it is painting too far away. You want to be nice and close, 2-3 inches from the frame. This seems too close, so practice a little first to get the feel. We suggest trying to drip it to see where this point is. If you get a rough orange peel effect, it means the paint is basically drying before it hits the frame. It could be too hot (see website for details) or you’re painting too far away. We also recommend a light base coat (Metal Primer, Cold-Zinc Primer or one of the light colors) to bring out the bright colour. In addition, rubbing the paint off with parchment paper about 20-30 minutes after painting will help compress the paint. A few tricks for working with the Fluros:

Make sure you shake the can for 3 full minutes, you must be able to hear the ball moving freely inside

The optimal temperature for Fluros is between 55-65F. Don’t paint when it’s over 75 degrees

Sometimes the cans will spray gunk for the first few seconds, shake again for a few seconds and then spray again until you get a nice flow of paint

The biggest mistake people make is painting too far away. Practice spraying 2-4 inches from a wall or other object to feel spray distance before beginning framing

Always spray first to get a nice flow before spraying the frame.

If the paint “spits”, shake the can for a few seconds and let it run nicely against a wall or other test object again before bringing it back to the frame

Hold the can upright while spraying as much as possible. It doesn’t like spraying upside down, so rotate the frame as you paint, not the can

Paint a nice layer, let it sit and come back in after about 30 minutes to see if you have any light spots, ideally under different light conditions (take it outside or inside). Touch up the light spots if necessary

20-30min after you finish painting, rub the frame with parchment paper to compress the paint smooth

a few coats of top coat and help smooth out the finish and bring out the fluoro color

Invert the can and spray until the paint stops coming out to clean the can after each painting. You don’t have to do this every time you spray in between, just when you’re done painting and leaving it for more than a day

Do I have to sand between layers? – You don’t do it, but you can. If you do this we recommend using a fine sandpaper and being careful not to mix the colors together.

do you match in color – No, all the colors we offer are available on the website.

Help, my nozzle is clogged! – If it happens, remove the nozzle from the can and scrape off the dried paint on the outside of the nozzle. Put the nozzle back on the can, shake the can well and see if you can get it to spray. Sometimes you have to hold the nozzle down to see if you can blow through the serrated paint. This is usually enough to get the paint splashing again. If that doesn’t work, you can swap out the nozzles from other Spray.Bike cans as long as they’re the same color.

Can the keirins be used as a top coat? – Yes! The keirin is a transparent glossy top coat but with floating bits of metallic colored flakes (in the flake) or glass dust (in the sunlight) making it an excellent top coat. In general, we recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the Keirin top coat to cure.

Can I use Spray.Bike Top Coat to protect my raw frame? – Our understanding of using clear coat on raw steel is that it is almost impossible to permanently prevent rust and our clear coat certainly will not do so completely. It will definitely slow down the development of rust though, and if you’re willing to occasionally brush out some rust and spray clear again it will likely remain a cool looking finish. We recommend sandblasting or sanding with some coarse grit and cleaning with rubbing alcohol (never acetone) before spraying.

Can I paint over a powder coated frame? – Probably. However, it can be difficult to prepare a powder-coated frame well for painting, especially when it’s going to be coated with a hard, clear powder. If you can have the frame sandblasted, that’s best. If not, we recommend sanding through the top coat and making sure the frame is roughened and cleaned well to get the best adhesion.

Can I paint a raw titanium bike? Titanium is a wonderful material for bikes, but it’s notoriously difficult to paint on. In theory, Spray.Bike should work just about any type of paint as it is ultimately composed of pigment and an emulsifier (only in combinations that work really well for a spray paint.) The question really is what type of preparation is needed to make any paint adhere to titanium, and we don’t have a good answer for you on that. There are various etching processes recommended to prepare titanium for painting, but we have no direct experience. When working with steel and aluminium, we would assume that grit blasting is a good preparation for the underlying surface as it appears best with the other materials. Primer usually helps with the other materials as well, so this is probably a safe bet to maximize performance. Bottom line, it will probably perform just as well as any other color, but durability can be unsatisfactory.

Can I also paint other bicycle components with Spray.Bike? – Yes is the short answer. Painting metal parts can be a bit tricky, however, as there are a variety of surface treatments commonly used in the manufacture of components. Many parts are made from anodized alloy, which is a surface to which paint is quite difficult to adhere. Others are polished, which also leaves a slippery surface. With a little prep work – mostly careful sanding and cleaning – you can probably get paint to adhere to most aluminum parts. However, durability is another issue as parts are often even more stressed than the frame/fork and in our experience painting components often creates durability issues. We recommend using our Metal Primer before painting and you’ll be fine with a little trial and error.

Can I use your paint on plastic or fiberglass? Yes, but durability depends to some extent on how flexible the plastic is. We recommend sanding and cleaning the surface first and applying a coat of Carbon Primer to act as an adhesion aid and to help the paint flex without cracking.

I want a design on my bike. How long should I wait before adding color masking? – We recommend making sure the paint is fully cured (about 2 hours) before adding glue. That means if you can wait longer, that’s better. 24 hours is great, so leaving it overnight is great.

What kind of masking do you recommend? – We use the yellow 3M Automotive Refinishing Masking Tape. If you have a digital design that you would like created, we recommend calling your local sign shop and seeing if they can print your design on High Bake Paint vinyl or a low tack vinyl. You can use stickers, but sometimes the glue can be very strong and leave glue residue or peel the paint off if it’s not fully cured.

What if I screw up? – You could screw it up. It’s OK. It’s not the end of the world and we make mistakes too. We always say, “$hit ain’t done until you can fix it.” There are many ways to make a mistake painting a bike, especially if you’ve never done it before, but there are also many ways to make it to fix. We think that shouldn’t stop you from doing a fun creative endeavor and making the bike your own. In general, if something gets screwed up (you touch the frame when it’s wet, the masking pulls, you get a drip in your clear coat, the paint ends up being textured, or you just decide you want to start over), there there ways to make it right. Often this means sanding down the area that needs repairing, masking off other areas, and repainting. Take a look at our troubleshooting page and feel free to email us with specific questions.

How long should I wait before building the bike? – We recommend 7 days before building the bike to allow the top coat to cure. This also varies. Thicker paints, especially top coats and keirins, will increase cure time, as will temperature and humidity. In general, the longer you can give it to heal, the better.

What is the return policy? – We accept returns of unopened and unused cans up to 90 days after purchase. Return shipping must be by ground, and associated shipping costs and a $5 restocking fee will be paid by the customer. Please include your order number and we recommend obtaining a tracking number for the returned package. Refunds will be processed once the product is received.

Spray.Bike

5320 14th Ave

Sacramento Ca 95820

After painting, can I restore the bike to its original factory finish? You can easily sand off the paint, but you cannot restore the frame to its original condition.

Anything else to know? It’s common sense, but it’s wise to be careful when inhaling paint fumes. We use respirators and always paint in well-ventilated areas.

Be careful with temperature and humidity ranges as this can affect paint adhesion and performance more than almost anything. Do not paint when it is hot, moderately cold, rainy or humid.

Be prepared that your DIY project will turn out absolutely awesome, but rarely turn out exactly how you expect it to.

Now have fun painting your bike!

Liquitex Spray Paint is an art tool made from highly fade-resistant, artist-grade pigments. Unlike regular sprays, it uses low-odor professional paint made with water-based technology and low solvents.

It is your perfect studio companion. No fumes. An easy-to-clean, water-based formulation. Fine dispersion, intense color and UV resistance.

See all colors below

I finished a bench this morning using one of my favorite tools: spray paint. As I worked, I went through all the emails you sent me asking questions about spray paint, expressing your fear, or sharing your love of the aerosol can.

In my humble opinion, these are the top ten pros and cons when it comes to using spray paint.

advantages

Spray paint provides more even coverage without brush strokes. Spray priming is a million times faster than brush priming. Spray paint is a million times faster than applying paint. Spray paint is usually oil based and therefore more durable than water based spray paint or regular latex paint. Spray paint is easy to use outdoors with a drop cloth and some newspaper. Special spray paints can be used to transform metal, wicker, plastic, resin and other surfaces. Spray paint dries much faster than canned paint (without additives). With a spray gun in hand, you can conquer the world, or at least transform a piece of furniture, without losing your mind over a million brush strokes. Cleaning is faster – no brushes to rinse or buckets to wash. Spray paint feels a little sneaky – at least in my state – you have to be of a certain age to buy it.

Disadvantages

Compared to latex paint, there are limited color choices aside from the great Heirloom White and some of Rustoleum’s American Accents line. Spray paint is more expensive per square foot of coverage. Spray paint requires a ventilated area to work in. You cannot use it indoors. Drops are difficult. I use my finger to wipe up drips, but they detract from the smoothness of even coverage. Spray paint is usually oil based, so cleaning your hands requires mineral spirits or a really strong scrub. Spray paint is extremely toxic (so wear a mask). A bad nozzle will splatter paint and ruin your day. Spray primer is not as durable as brush primer, so it should not be used on high traffic parts (e.g. table tops). Without a paint spray gun, fingers can cramp. I read somewhere that aerosol cans are bad for the environment. A very boring interesting article on how an aerosol can of spray paint works can be found here.

Rules I follow:

Shake shake shake. Shake shake shake. Shake your spray can. Shake your spray can. Always spray 7 inches from your piece, moving back and forth in one quick motion. Two thin coats is better than one thick coat – you risk drips. Spray an inconspicuous area in case it squirts out of the can. Quality varies, so I mostly use Rustoleum brand spray paints. Always wear a mask, disposable or otherwise. Have you seen the warning on a spray can? Couldn’t be more toxic. Properly dispose of your cans in a toxic waste dump.

Here’s a throwback to a few months ago, but take a look at some brass thrift store finds I’ve transformed with a spray can in this post.

Before:

To:

What are your experiences with spray paint? are you as big a fan as me? Are you afraid of the spray can? Have I missed any pros or cons?

What tips can you give us all so that we can improve our application?

If you’re looking to revitalize an old bike or make a splash in your cycling club, a fresh new frame color could be just the ticket. Here we look at two methods of finishing a bike frame: painting and powder coating.

Should I have my bike frame professionally painted? If you’re looking for the highest quality finish and most impressive style, you should have your bike frame professionally painted. Custom bike painters can turn bikes into works of art with stunning colors and intricate designs.

So how much does it cost to have a bike frame professionally painted? The average starting price for painting a steel bike frame is $516 and ranges from $350 to $750. The final cost is higher if additional colors and patterns are added or if the bike is carbon.

The above conclusion was reached by taking prices from several suppliers and compiling them in the tables below showing starting prices for steel and carbon bike frames.

Bike Shop One Color (USD) Two Colors (USD) Horse Cycles, NY 350 405 Chris Kvale Cycles, MN 350 Bilenky Cycle Works, PA 495 575 Premier Bicycle Werks, CA 550 Element 6, CA 600 Hot Tubes, MA 750 Average 516 490 Cost of professional painting of bikes (steel frame)

Here is a list of starting prices for carbon bike frames.

Bike Shop Single Color (USD) Two Color (USD) Premier Bicycle Werks, CA 450 Carbon Solutions, CA 600 700 R+E Cycles, WA 700 Element 6, CA 800 Hot Tubes, MA 1000 Average 710 700 Cost of professional bike painting (carbon frames )

Who has their bike frame professionally painted?

An individual finish is ideal for anyone who wants a high-quality appearance. Maybe you’re a road cyclist with an interest in style. Or maybe you are a classic car enthusiast restoring a classic bike. Then professional painting is perfect!

Can I paint a bike frame myself?

Painting a bike frame involves a number of steps, e.g. B. sanding, priming, painting and applying a clear coat. It’s quite challenging, but definitely a task most people could handle on their own.

Aside from purchasing materials, you’ll need an easy-to-clean outdoor area and some patience (some steps take a while!). Here is a video demonstrating the whole process in a simple way:

How much does it cost to paint my bike frame yourself?

Painting a bike frame yourself is an inexpensive way to get a fresh new color, and the cost is around $70.

How much does it cost to powder coat a bike frame?

The average cost to powder coat a bike frame is $151 and ranges from $50 to $275. This cost often includes sandblasting, making powder coating an inexpensive way to finish a bike frame.

Here is a price list for powder coating a bike frame.

Bike Shop One Color (USD $) Amalfi Powder Coating, AZ 50 Rock on Wheels, WY 100 Espo’s Powder Coating, NY 110 CC Coatings, OR 150 Finish Logic, CA 175 Quality Powder Coating NYC, NY 200 Seattle Powder Coat, WA 275 Average 151 cost powder coating bike frame

What is powder coating?

Powder coating uses an electrical charge to bind colored powder to the surface of an item. In powder coating, an object is sprayed with powder and then heated in an oven. This creates a smooth, durable finish for your bike frame.

What are the benefits of powder coating your bike frame?

toughness

Powder coating involves spraying multiple layers of powder onto your bike. This creates a durable finish that will withstand bumps and scratches and stay strong for a long time.

value

The average cost to powder coat a bike frame is $151, so it’s an inexpensive way to update your bike.

Surroundings

Powder coating is more environmentally friendly than other options. It is a solvent-free process that causes almost no emissions. Plus, the leftover powder can be scraped off and reused, so waste is minimal (source).

Who should have a bike frame powder coated?

The powder coating is ideal for people who need a durable bike. The powder coating creates a strong finish that can withstand bumps, scrapes and scratches (source).

Maybe you live in a city and want to protect your bike from concrete and cars. Or maybe you’re a mountain biker who worries about trees and boulders. The powder coating is perfect when you want a hard wearing finish that also looks good.

Painting versus powder coating bike frames

To answer this question correctly, it is important to consider your needs and the way you intend to use your bike.

When bold style is paramount, color is your best bet. Painting provides a thinner layer of paint, allowing intricate details and patterns to really stand out. The choice of colors and design options is also much larger.

If you need a tough bike, then powder coating is for you. Powder coating is sturdier than paint and many hold it downright bombproof! It’s the best choice for people who want a great looking bike that won’t chip or scratch easily.

What is sandblasting?

Sandblasting is when a trained operator sprays abrasive particles at an object under high pressure. The purpose of sandblasting is to remove dirt and create a smooth surface. Sandblasting is known by other names such as B. Abrasive blasting and media blasting.

The benefits of sandblasting bike frames

Sanding a frame by hand is a difficult task, and it can take days (yes, days!) to remove stubborn old paint from your frame. For this reason, some people have their frames sandblasted, a process that removes old rust and paint and strips your frame back to bare metal. It’s a quick and inexpensive way to prep your bike frame for painting or powder coating (while saving hours of hard work with a piece of sandpaper!).

Where can I have my bike frame painted?

Painting custom bikes takes a lot of skill, and if you’re looking for the best quality and the widest range of options, take it to an experienced specialist. To get an idea of ​​what spot to look for, take a look at these three custom bike paint shops:

Element 6 in Santa Ana, California: element6.us

Hot Tubes in Boston, MA: hottubes.com

Austin Paintworks in Austin, TX: austinpaintworks.com