Lorenzetti Electric Shower Head Manual? Quick Answer

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How does an electric shower work? Electric showers solve this problem by using electricity to heat cold water. They never run out of hot water, so they’re a great solution if you have a lot of people in your house who like to take showers one at a time. Electric showers work similarly to other electrical devices that get hot, including electric toasters and hair dryers. They send an electric current through a piece of metal called a heating element. This has a moderate resistance so it gets very hot when current is passed through it. Cold water flows past the element, absorbing heat and flowing through the nozzle where you stand. Graphic: The basic concept of an electric shower: Cold water enters the tube on the left, flows past the coiled heating element (red) in the middle and exits as hot water on the right. You probably know that water and electricity are usually a very dangerous combination, but electric showers are perfectly safe when fitted correctly. This is because a heating element is a fully enclosed unit. The electric current flows through the element, but not in a way that can electrocute you. No current comes into contact with the water that touches you. Thermostat Control You can regulate the temperature of an electric shower by turning a dial, usually marked with a scale ranging from blue (for cold) to red (for hot). In simple electric showers, this controller simply adjusts the flow so that more or less water flows past the heating element, making the water coming out of the shower head colder or hotter. In better showers, pressure-equalizing valves, a built-in water mixing tank (which helps avoid sudden temperature changes when you turn the dial), and various thermostats and flow sensors keep the temperature and water pressure as safe and constant as possible. That’s a big challenge because the water fed into an electric shower is much more variable in temperature and pressure than you might think. In winter, the incoming temperature can drop to a few degrees Celsius, while in summer it will very likely be ten degrees hotter. It is a real challenge for a shower to maintain an adequate water flow and constant water temperature all year round. (Incidentally, that explains why the water coming out of the hose can feel warmer or colder than it was when you last showered, even if you never change your shower’s temperature controls.) Photo: If you’re trying to save money, friends take you under Turn the thermostat on in the shower—and turn it down a degree or two. Power Showers For an electric shower to work effectively, you first need a cold water supply with high enough water pressure, as the shower heater will reduce the pressure of the running water and the relatively high level of the hose and shower head will reduce it even more. When the water pressure is not enough for an ordinary electric shower, the solution is to add a power shower. It takes cold water and heats it like a regular electric shower, but also uses an electric pump to increase the water pressure so it exits the nozzle with greater force and speed. If saving water and energy is important, consider that power showers use 3-5 times more than regular showers. An extensive power shower can quickly cost as much as a generous bathtub full of hot water!

How an electric shower works: in a nutshell A typical electric shower is like a more sophisticated version of a mixer tap, where hot water is instantly heated by a heating element, but still mixed with cold water to achieve your preferred final water temperature. How does it work? Like this! You press or turn the ON switch. This actuates a solenoid (electromagnetic switch) that opens a valve on the water inlet pipe. With the valve open, pressurized cold water from your normal household supply flows into the shower. Part of the water flows into a small plastic heater tank (approx. 0.25 liter capacity). The tank acts as a hot water storage tank, helping to ensure both a constant flow of hot water and a much more even temperature. It also helps smooth out temporary “overshoots” and “undershoots” in temperature that occur when you suddenly turn the temperature dial up or down. Powerful heating elements inside the tank (sometimes up to 10.8kW – about five times the power of an electric kettle) – heat the cold water instantly. The water heats up much faster than in a kettle because you have maybe half or a quarter as much in the tank and five times the power. As an aside, let’s mention that there’s a handy little sludge trap at the bottom of the tank to catch scale and dirt, which can be emptied by removing a hidden cover. Heated water from the tank and cold water from the supply meet in a thermostatic mixing valve similar to the one we looked at above. The large temperature knob that you turn controls this valve, making the water hotter or colder as needed. The thermostat built into the valve tries to keep the temperature constant once it has been set. A pressurized flow sensor on the outlet pipe checks for dangerously low pressure and, if necessary, triggers a circuit to shut off the shower. An electronic circuit board monitors this sensor and the various other sensors and controls. Different showers are more or less demanding. Some are fully electronically controlled; some are entirely manual. At the bottom of the water tank, a safety valve (sometimes called a pressure relief device or PRD) can inflate if the water pressure gets too high. In this case, water comes out of a small overflow pipe. The water tank also includes a thermal cut-off mechanism. If the water gets too hot, a temperature sensor in the tank will trigger the circuit and solenoid valve to shut off the water supply (or sometimes just the heating element) so you don’t cook like a lobster! Hot water is pumped to the shower head, just the way you like it. Here is the Mira shower from our top photo with the plastic cover removed showing what some of these components look like in real life: Cold water inlet pipe. Main flow/temperature control. When the front cover is in place, this is where the large blue/red (hot/cold) thermostat knob snaps. On/off switch, solenoid and main temperature control (low-medium-high). heating elements. You can see the wires connected to them at the very top. hot water tank. Spout connected to shower hose (not shown). As you would expect, the two halves of the plastic case are sealed by a rubber grommet; When they click together, water cannot get into the electrical parts inside.

How much energy does an electric shower use? Like any other electrical device, showers carry ratings that tell you how much energy they use per second. Typically you will find that a shower uses anywhere between 7.5 kW (kilowatts) and 11 kW; The higher the number, the more energy you use and the better the shower experience. In a power shower, the electricity drives both the pump and the heating element, so a higher number usually means more water flow and a more invigorating shower. There’s also a downside: a higher number usually means a more sophisticated shower unit (which is more expensive to begin with) and each of your showers uses more energy and costs more money. The number of kilowatts represents the number of units of electricity you would use if you showered for a full hour – so an 11 kW shower would use 11 units, for example. Multiply that number by the unit cost of your electricity to find out how much a one-hour shower would cost, then divide down to find the cost of a two, four, eight, or however many minute shower you prefer. Diagram: Power showers: Showers use more electricity (energy per second) than most other household appliances. That doesn’t mean they cost more, as some of these other appliances (like clothes dryers and radiators) run much longer and use more energy overall. Remember that the energy you use is equal to the device power multiplied by the usage time. A device’s cost of ownership is based on its total energy consumption, not its performance. If you think showers don’t cost much, look again at these power figures: around 10 kW. That’s around 3-5 times more than a kettle uses and probably twice the power of your tumble dryer. Suppose you shower for 5-10 minutes at a time and there are four people in your household who shower once a day. That means you’re using 20-40 minutes of expensive, instant hot water a day, costing you several electricity units a day. That’s a lot more expensive than it sounds. Of course, the more powerful your shower and the longer you use it, the more it costs. Do showers save energy compared to baths? What costs more, a shower or a bath? In general, showers use less energy because they use less water, but it all depends on your shower and bath. If you have a modern electric shower with a low flow head and only use it for three or four minutes it is very efficient and should save you money compared to a bath. If you have a power shower and stand in it for 15 minutes, don’t expect to save much – you may even find it costs you more! If you’re showering over your bathtub, you can easily test whether you’re saving by showering with the plug in. Overall, you save energy and money by using less water. The less hot water you use, the more you save. (Of course, the calculation changes slightly if your shower uses hotter water than your bath—or vice versa.) Chart: In general, showers use less water and energy than baths, but long power showers use more. Drawn from data from Showers vs. Baths: facts, numbers and misconceptions by Waterwise 24 November 2011 [archived with the Wayback Machine]. When you have a separate bath and shower stall, the cost comparison is more difficult. If you know math, you could read your electricity (or gas) meters before and after you bathe and shower and use the difference in readings to calculate the cost. Or you could use an electrical energy monitor, although that won’t help you if either your bath or shower runs on gas or oil!

Is it worth buying eco-friendly shower heads? Photo: Electric showers use heating elements that are almost 100 percent efficient, so by and large the heat energy you put out is the same as the electrical energy you put in. This means that if you want to save on the energy you put in (to help the environment or save money), you also need to save on the energy you leave, either by controlling the temperature, the water flow, or the time you spend in the shower spend, reduce. One of the most fundamental (and useful) laws of physics, the conservation of energy, tells us that we can’t create or destroy energy: we can’t pluck it out of thin air or make it disappear entirely, we can only transform one form into another. If you want to reduce the energy you use (or the money you spend) when you shower, energy conservation tells us the only way to do it is by: using less water (in other words, taking a shorter shower). ).

Use the same amount of water but at a lower temperature.

Use a more efficient shower element that wastes less energy. However, most electric heating elements are almost 100 percent efficient, so it probably doesn’t make much of a difference.

Use an electric shower element with a lower wattage. But if the element uses less power (less energy per second), then less energy needs to go into the water every second – so a lower powered shower will just make the water colder. Photo: Would you like to save water, energy and money when showering? Forget that expensive eco shower head; that’s really all you need. It’s a four-minute “egg timer” on a suction cup. Many water suppliers give them away for free; make sure that yours does! So what about eco-friendly replacement shower heads that claim to save water and money? Again, energy conservation tells us that any profits you make must be lost elsewhere. If your shower saves energy, it can only do so by reducing the amount of water used or the water temperature. It can’t give you exactly the same shower quality (same hot and just as long with exactly the same amount of water) while saving energy at the same time; the laws of physics just don’t allow it! Eco showerheads usually work by reducing the amount of water flowing through them (and changing the airflow so you don’t notice the difference). As they tend to be quite expensive, you might not be saving any money at all – and you can achieve exactly the same effect by either turning the water down on the tap (mixer faucets usually allow this, but electric showers often do). not), showering at a slightly lower temperature or showering for less time.

How do pulsating showerheads work? Photo: In a pulsating shower head, the pressure of the inflowing water (1) drives a small turbine (2), which sets a wheel in rotation (3). Holes in the wheel periodically interrupt the inflowing water flow and give hammering impulses to the exiting water (4). This is a very simplified version of what’s going on; for a much more detailed description and diagrams see the patent documents listed below. Power showers are great for tired bones, but pulsating showers can be even better if you want to massage your aching muscles at the same time. How do you work? Although there are different designs, most rely on the pressure of the water jet to turn a miniature water turbine attached to a rotating wheel inside the shower head. The wheel has one or more holes in it so that it interrupts the flow of water intermittently and instead of releasing a constant stream, regular bursts of pressurized water through the shower head nozzles. It’s a bit like a garden sprinkler, where a cam, driven by the pressure of the incoming water, turns the outgoing flow on and off.

Please DO NOT copy our articles to blogs and other websites. Articles from this site are registered with the US Copyright Office. If you copy or otherwise use Registered Works without permission, remove this or other copyright notices, and/or violate related rights, you may be subject to severe civil or criminal penalties. Text copyright © Chris Woodford 2008, 2022. All rights reserved. Full Copyright Notice and Terms of Use.

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I know I take a good shower for granted. But as someone who showers regularly, it’s definitely hard to ignore when a problem arises. If you’re currently having a problem and wondering why the water isn’t coming out of your shower head properly, it could mean a lot.

Water not coming out of a showerhead properly can mean there is a clogged showerhead, a problem with the attachment of the showerhead to the shower arm, valves on the main water supply, or a more serious problem with the plumbing in a showerhead home.

There are a number of ways to diagnose why water isn’t coming out of your shower head like it should, and it really depends on your exact problem. Let’s take a look at specific water and showerhead problems and ways you might be able to fix them without necessarily having to call a plumber.

Diagnosing your showerhead problem

Just as a doctor cannot diagnose an illness without knowing the symptoms, it would be very difficult to solve your showerhead problem without first knowing the details.

That’s why we’ve broken things down into 3 different scenarios that you might be experiencing with your showerhead, along with some possible causes and solutions. Let’s start with scenario #1.

Scenario 1: Shower pressure is too low / No water comes out of the shower head

If you find that the shower pressure is significantly lower than you are used to, little or no water is coming out of your shower head, here are some of the most common reasons why this could be happening:

Possible problems

Clogged shower head

Over time, mineral deposits build up in your shower head, causing clogs.

To fix this problem, clean your shower head. You can do this with or without vinegar.

Old shower head

If cleaning doesn’t fix the problem, it could be that your shower head is old and needs to be replaced. It might be a bit much for those who never think about it, but it’s recommended to replace the showerheads every 6 to 8 months.

To fix this problem, get a new shower head at your local hardware store or online. If this is your first time doing this, be sure to check out these shower head adjustment tips.

Defective shower water diverter valve

If you have a lower shower pressure and see water coming out of your tub faucet when you shower, it’s probably the shower diverter valve.

This is the mechanism that directs (or “diverts”) the water that flows through your tub’s faucet to your showerhead.

To fix this problem, replace your shower diverter. Also check beforehand to see if something in your faucet is blocking the diverter or if the washer in your diverter is bent or broken. You may only need to replace this part and not the entire shower diverter valve.

Sediment formation in the water heater

If you now find that you only have low shower pressure when using hot water, it could be due to limescale build-up in your water heater.

To fix the problem, ask a plumber to flush your water heater. Draining the tank should rid it of limescale.

Main Water Shutoff Valve Off

Water may not be coming out of the shower head, but if it’s also not coming out of your kitchen sink or anywhere else in your home, it could be that the valve to your main water supply has been shut off.

To fix this problem, locate and inspect the main shutoff valve in your home. If you can’t find it, contact a plumber to get the job done.

Scenario 2: Water is dripping from the shower head or is leaking

This can be really annoying, especially if your showerhead is dripping when the faucet isn’t on and you’re trying to sleep. Whatever the problem, this can cause your water bill to skyrocket, and we don’t want that.

Possible problems

shower faucet valve

A dripping showerhead, especially when the water is turned off, could mean that limescale has worn away some of the seals in your shower faucet valve, not the showerhead itself.

To fix this problem, remove your shower faucet and replace it with the appropriate parts. You must shut off your water supply prior to this endeavor and be sure to take the parts to the store with you to ensure you get the correct replacement parts.

Clogged shower head

It might sound counterintuitive, but a showerhead can leak water when it’s clogged. When the shower head holes become clogged with mineral deposits, water flowing through a shower head will find its way through other openings, such as the shower head. B. the front panel.

To fix this problem, clean your shower head. It is possible to clean your shower head with common household items.

Shower head not fully sealed

Water leaking from where your shower head meets your shower arm while the water is running may mean the shower head is not fully sealed.

To fix the problem, remove your showerhead from its shower arm and wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the shower arm 2-3 times. Your shower head may come with a washer on the end. If so, check to see if it’s worn out and needs replacing.

Shower head not compatible with shower arm

Compatibility could be the issue if you recently got a new shower head and it started leaking where the shower head connects to the shower arm that comes out of the tub wall.

While there are standard thread sizes for shower heads, old homes may not adhere to this standard. If you find yourself forcing your shower head onto the arm, it may be that the thread on your shower head is not compatible with the thread on your shower arm.

To fix the problem, replace your shower head with one that properly fits your shower arm. To make sure you have the right shower head, read about it here.

shower head design

Some larger shower heads, especially rainfall shower heads, hold a lot of water. When running water is turned off, part of it remains in the shower head due to surface tension.

If enough air flows through the holes of the shower head, the water can start to drip or even pour if there is a lot of it.

To fix the problem, tilt your shower head down and tap it after showering. This should get a lot of water out, but if you’re still bothered by the dripping, consider getting a different shower head.

Scenario 3: Water pressure in the shower is too high

While most people have the opposite problem, too much shower pressure can be painful and potentially indicate problems in your home’s plumbing.

Possible problems

shower head setting

Many shower heads have multiple settings that can be adjusted to get the spray pattern you want. If you share a bathroom, someone might have changed the shower head setting and left.

To fix the problem, find and adjust the shower head spray setting. Every showerhead is designed differently, but there should be a visible button just on the side of your showerhead.

water pressure at home

If the water is splashing down not only in your shower but also elsewhere in the house, it could be your home’s water pressure.

For reference, the water pressure in your home should not exceed 80 psi (pounds per square inch). Excessive water pressure could damage your pipes.

To fix the problem, see a plumber to adjust or replace your water pressure regulator. Water pressure regulators are used to control and lower the water pressure entering your home.

related questions

Can a clogged shower head cause a leak?

Water can leak from a shower head when the shower head holes become clogged with mineral deposits. Since the water has nowhere to go, it finds its way through other crevices, such as. B. the front panel, causing it to leak.

Why does water come out of the tap when you shower?

If water is leaking from both the bathtub faucet and the shower head while the shower is running, this indicates a problem with the shower diverter valve. This can be due to limescale deposits that need cleaning or worn parts that need to be replaced.

What could be worse than waking up with no hot water for your morning shower? Learn how to use Cashfloat to make simple shower repairs to get your shower working again.

Article Highlights Before attempting to fix the shower, make sure you turn off the power from the mains.

Find out when it can be dangerous to repair your shower yourself.

We all hate jumping in the shower when it’s cold. Brrrr. Or you may have an unreliable temperature and have to keep jumping in when it’s hot and out when it’s cold. Maybe there is no water at all. All these common shower problems are very frustrating.

This article will point out some of the most common shower errors that you can sometimes diagnose and fix yourself instead of calling a repairman. Always be careful. Don’t risk your life to save money. Before attempting to solve a problem with your electric shower, remember that electricity is very dangerous on its own and deadly when combined with water. When in doubt, always consult an experienced electrician.

Watch this Shower Repair video – What you need to know before you call the handyman.

Electric Showers – How Do They Work?

mixer taps

The simplest form of shower is a commercially available mixer tap. These work by combining hot and cold water to produce warm water. With a detachable mixer tap, a Y-shaped rubber tube is attached to both faucets of the bathtub or sink. Showers that have both hot and cold water faucets sometimes have standard faucets built in as well. Both mix hot and cold water to give you a jet of warm water for your shower.

However, these very simple showerheads make it difficult to control the actual temperature of the water. If someone else is in the kitchen and turns on a faucet, you might experience a sudden gush of either very hot or freezing cold water.

A more reliable type of mixer shower is a thermostatic mixer shower. This is a built-in mixer tap with a thermostat. The built-in thermostat keeps the temperature constant. These showers are much safer and more comfortable. Most of these devices also have a built in safety shut off to keep them from getting too hot. This prevents children or even adults from burning boiling water. Mixer faucets are not as efficient as electric showers. They depend on a hot water supply from the tank. Once that’s gone, you’re left with cold water.

Electric showers

Simply put, an electric shower works by heating cold water with electricity. An electric current flows through a heating element. As the cold water flows past the element, it heats up.

Repair of electric showers

There are some small issues with electric showers that you can identify yourself. Knowing what is causing the problem can help you decide whether or not you need the help of a repair technician. Lukewarm water in the shower Lukewarm water in the shower is common in electric showers. It may be due to a lack of current going through the micro switch. This can happen if the switch is burned out or otherwise defective. Or a defective heating element also means that your water is not heating up as it should. Replacing a switch is not expensive, but an element will cost more. Replacing a pull cord switch costs around £50. A new shower circuit can cost anywhere from £75 to £160 depending on where you live. Prices in London are higher than other parts of the UK. Unreliable Shower Temperature If the water keeps going from boiling hot to cold and back again, there could be a problem with the water flow. In this case you can check if the main valve is fully open. Also check the shut-off valve to the device. If you find a problem with one of these faucets, contact a plumber. Alternatively, call an electrician to check the shower. No hot water at all If you only get cold water from the shower, the safety shut off might work. If a shower starts to overheat, this safety device shuts off the power to prevent burns. If this happens frequently, you need to hire an electrician to fix your shower. This normally costs around £100. It can be worth taking out a short-term loan online to cover emergency expenses when you’re short on money and your salary is due soon. Water leaking from the bottom of the shower unit Pressure build-up can cause water to leak from the bottom of the shower unit. If the shower hose is blocked, this can lead to an increase in pressure. Showers have a pressure relief device. If the pressure in the hot water tank builds up too much, it will activate the pressure relief device, water will flow out of the valve at the bottom of the shower unit. To solve this problem, you can unblock it. Sometimes you need to replace the pressure relief valve once it has activated. No water at all If you are getting no water at all, or if it skips when you shower, the problem could be with the solenoid valve. This valve is actuated by the solenoid. If the coil breaks, the valve will not open and will not let water into the shower. You can replace the solenoid coil to solve this problem.

More serious problems with electric showers

Like all appliances, an electric shower can have potentially dangerous problems. You should always follow electrical safety guidelines. If there is an impending danger, you should stop using the shower and call in a specialist immediately. The trigger switch keeps turning the shower off If the power goes out every time you turn on the shower controls, it could be because of water getting in contact with the wiring. This is dangerous and you should call an electrician. Burning Smell If you smell burning when you turn on the shower, this is another indication of a wiring problem. Don’t use the shower until you fix this problem. Shower won’t turn on If you know the shower fixture has power but won’t turn on, this also indicates an electrical fault. The electrical connection is probably bad and you should call an electrician. The shower detaches from the wall This is extremely dangerous as there is a strong electrical current running through the device which could be exposed. A loose shower faucet could also cut off the water supply and potentially cause a leak. Turn off the electricity and water supplies and try to reattach your shower unit as soon as possible. It is possible to fix some problems with fixing the shower unit yourself with the help of a video tutorial. However, it would be better to call in an experienced installer. If you try to fix it, make sure you disconnect the power at the main and turn off the water supply.

Other problems with showers

Other problems with electric showers are not dangerous but can be annoying. It’s more likely that you can fix these problems yourself. However, you must ensure that you turn off the power when dealing with anything that may be potentially dangerous. It’s also a good idea to turn off the water supply as there is a chance of causing a leak. A leaking inlet pipe A leaking inlet pipe can cause a loss of water pressure and can be annoying. You need to replace the plastic fittings or mount a new water pipe. Many of the simple problems associated with electric showers are due to faulty plumbing. Check that your shower is properly connected before using it. Stuck shower handles or faucets If you live in a hard water area, scale or minerals can build up on the push handle or faucets. You can get rid of this with a simple descaler like Cillit Bang. Simply apply the product to the affected area and let it work its magic. Then remove the limescale with a brush or cloth. Failure to remove the scale can result in the faucet or valve breaking when you try to turn it. A replacement tap can cost around £60. Poor Water Pressure Unfortunately, there isn’t a simple shower fix you can do to fix low water pressure. Low pressure can result in lukewarm water. An electric shower requires a minimum pressure to function successfully. The only way to fix this problem is to increase the water supply pressure. A plumber can advise you on the best place to put the shower so the pressure is high enough for better performance.

Frequently Asked Questions About Cleaning Showers Cleaning your shower regularly will make your shower last longer and help keep bacteria out. Here you will find answers to the most frequently asked questions about cleaning your shower. What is the best way to clean a shower head? First, use a scrubbing brush to wipe off any dry residue around the intake hole. To descale the showerhead, mix equal parts white vinegar and water in a plastic bag. Place the showerhead in the plastic bag so that all the holes are submerged in the liquid. Close the bag over your head with an elastic band. Let the head soak for at least 20 minutes and then remove it. Rinse the shower head and remove any extra residue. Enjoy your clean shower. How should I clean the shower glass? The first step is to spray some vinegar on the glass and let it sit for a few minutes. Then create a paste with equal amounts of baking soda and salt and use a damp sponge to rub the paste all over the jar. Leave it on for a few more minutes and then rinse thoroughly. Finally, use a good quality glass cleaner with a microfiber cloth. What’s the best way to clean grout in a shower? This is the most proven way to clean the grout in your shower. First you should remove the surface dirt and grime. You can do this with the notched side of a sponge and fairy liquid. After this step, only the mold should be left, which is in the grout itself. To remove the mold use some bleach and an old toothbrush. Pour 2 parts bleach to 1 part water and start scrubbing with the toothbrush. Once you have covered all areas, leave on for 30 minutes. To remove these really black spots, brush with a toothbrush without adding bleach and rinse thoroughly with plenty of water. How should I clean the shower drain? Start by removing anything that might be preventing the water from going to the bottom. Use a wire hanger to remove hair and other small clogs. Once those clogs are cleared, pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain, followed by 1/2 cup of white vinegar. Plug the drain with a rag and let it sit for a few hours. After that, remove the rag and boil a kettle with water. Quickly pour the boiling water down the drain to flush away any clogs.

Help with problems with electric showers

Having an electric shower is a blessing, even if you occasionally need to make repairs to the shower. A shower uses less water than a full bath and saves on electricity bills because it efficiently heats the water as it flows through the element.

Modern showers have a shut-off valve. In case of problems you can use this to turn off the water supply. After that, turn off the switch in the fuse box that supplies power to the shower. Then call an emergency plumber or electrician.

Unless you’re an experienced plumber and electrician, it’s better not to mess with electric showers when they go wrong. Shower repairs can sometimes be expensive and you may need to take out a £500 loan to fund the repairs. Your life is worth more than a payday loan, so don’t risk dangerous repairs.

Keeping your shower clean and regularly checking for the issues mentioned in this article will ensure you get the most out of this home appliance and minimize the need for shower repairs.

No hot water comes out of your shower?

Although it’s often quite warm in Texas in the winter, the last thing you want is no hot water from the shower! An immediate solution would be to check your water tank from which the hot water is supplied. Water heaters (or water tanks) are usually found in hidden places like your basement, attic, garage, or even a closet. FYI, the location of your water heater also affects how quickly the water in your home gets hot.

While your water tank might be the most obvious reason for hot water problems, it’s not the only one. There are a few other things to look out for when trying to figure out why the water in your home isn’t heating up. Quarter Moon Plumbing, AC & Heating has a few tips for you if the hot water isn’t coming out of your shower.

Check the temperature

Sometimes it’s the little things. While checking the water heater temperature may sound like a no-brainer, there are a few other things to consider. If you have an electric water heater, look for elements that may have blown; Water will either heat for a short time or not heat at all if there is a problem. If you have an older model, the cold water supply dip tube may be damaged. The dip tube allows cold water to flow down to the burner to heat it up. Instead of sending the cold water to the burner for heating, it escapes into the hot water supply line. This will cause cold water to come out. Make sure you check the temperature of your water heater to rule out this factor.

Water tank, inspect!

As mentioned earlier, your water tank can be located either in your basement, attic, garage or closet. Once you’ve found it, the first thing you should do is check the age and condition of your water tank. Like many devices, water tanks are subject to wear and tear over time. A second thing to watch out for is leaks and checking connections. Sometimes the connections on your water heater need to be tightened or sometimes replaced. Lastly, check the anode rod (a steel wire coated with either aluminum or magnesium to prevent the water tank from rusting) and look for debris. If the anode rod is worn out or covered in sediment buildup, this could be the real reason your water isn’t heating.

Check other faucets around the house

To determine if it’s a problem with the water tank or a shower component, check the temperature of the hot water in the other faucets in your home. If the hot water temperature cools down quickly, you may have a burner problem with your water tank. If no hot water comes out at all, it could be a bad dip tube. Now, if all other faucets have hot running water, the problem may be with your shower components.

Check your shower valve

Your shower valve may need to be checked if the only place in your household that isn’t getting hot water is your shower. The shower valve mixes both hot and cold water to bring it to the perfect temperature for your shower. Sometimes the washers or o-rings are worn out, causing the valve not to work properly. This can result in cold water coming through the shower head. You may need to replace some of these parts if there is a problem with your shower valve.

If you can’t solve the problem, call the experts!

Here at Quarter Moon Plumbing, AC & Heating we always care about the comfort and protection of our customers. If you suspect there is a problem with your plumbing, air conditioning or heating system, call us today for an inspection at (210) 651-5899 or contact us on our website.

This post contains affiliate links.

Have you ever heard of a suicide shower?

I didn’t have that until I moved to South America this year. Now, unfortunately, I can tell you all about it.

I’ve had a lot of suicidal shower experience over the past few months and so far I’ve lived to tell the story.

What is a suicide shower?

Suicide shower is the nickname for electrically heated showers.

As you can probably guess, the name comes from the fact that the combination of water and electricity doesn’t usually end too well.

But down here in Peru this is the water heating system of choice meaning Daniel and I have been showering under exposed power cords for the past 3 months.

Really, I promise I’m not being dramatic here. The term “suicide shower” is a real nickname for these devices and they have caused multiple deaths around the world. Google it if you don’t believe me. (But really not. It’s sad.)

Our suicide shower was particularly bad in Cusco, where the cords ran straight from the light socket into the shower head. Most of them were just taped together and sticking out randomly (seriously, how many wires does it take?!) without any order or arrangement for them. Our apartment in Arequipa was similar, with people in later reviews complaining that they were shocked by the water.

For these showers to work, the water is heated as it flows through the showerhead. So another fun aspect of a suicide shower is that the lower the water pressure, the hotter the water gets. This means you can have a warm shower with good water pressure, or you can have a hot shower a few drops at a time. When you have a mane of hair like mine, it means you spend even longer contemplating your impending death while you’re under the flow.

After living in Peru for three months, I now consider myself an expert on sketchy shower practices. Without hesitation I introduce:

The complete guide to surviving a suicide spree

Step 1: Lower your hygiene standards so you can shower as little as possible (not to mention the strenuous hikes and climbs you undertake weekly in this part of the world). Once or twice a week is best.

Step 2: Brush your hair and prepare everything you need so you can get in and out as soon as possible.

Step 3: Turn on the suicide shower and think about everything else but the exposed wires that run into the shower head, waiting to kill you when you least expect it. say a prayer

Step 4: Decide not to get caught in a shower accident, dodge, turn off the shower, and heat a pot of water for the sad and pathetic bucket shower you deserve.

Anyway, that’s usually the method I go for! I’m still alive, so it’s definitely worked well so far!

If you run into any of these bad guys on your travels through South America, keep this advice in mind because you certainly don’t want to be remembered as a backpacker killed by a shower 🙂

Good luck and have a safe trip!

PS: This article is fun and pokes fun at a problem I got myself into while staying in super cheap apartments. I’m not suggesting that all electric showers are the same or that people have poor hygiene using them, just that I chose to shower less because mine weren’t well maintained.

This article is part of the Travel Rants and Raves series. Read the rest below:

3 Reasons Why Travel Rings Are Totally Overrated

In defense of the T-word, when did tourist become so negative?

America’s food culture is super weird… Here’s why

Why I never choose the window seat when flying

Then explore the full Interesting Reads series for more weird and great stories from around the world.

Electric showers are specified in kilowatts (kW). Generally, a smaller property will have a 7.5-8.5kW shower, while larger homes may have up to a 10.5kW unit. A 10 kW shower consumes about one kWh of energy in six minutes. For example, if you take an average UK household of four and assume everyone takes a six-minute shower a day, you could use four kWh of energy a day, or 1,460 kWh in a year. This is a large percentage of your energy bill, and you may be able to reduce costs by encouraging shorter or less frequent showers (e.g. every other day).

2. Tumble Dryer

You may be surprised to learn that a tumble dryer is the second most used appliance in a year. It uses around 675 kilowatt hours (kWh) per year and costs around £90 per year to run. But that’s relatively good news. It’s easy to reduce your electricity consumption by hanging your laundry to dry instead. When a path or patio is dry, your laundry should be dry too, even if it’s relatively cold outside.

3. Plasma TV

With the average Brit watching television for over three hours a day, it’s worth considering how much this form of entertainment could be costing you in electricity. Plasma TVs use a lot of electricity, but more modern LED TVs use significantly less and often have built-in smart features to improve efficiency.

Listen to the environmentalists, and we would never leave devices on standby—in fact, we’d ban standby altogether (It’s time to turn on those energy-saving TVs and PVRs, February 22nd). But research I’ve done on my own energy use seems to disprove that theory.

I insulated my roof last summer and have since been monitoring my gas and electricity meters to see what the effect was. I wanted to see how my new insulation would compare to the flimsy 1960’s insulation that was originally installed. I found that my gas bill was cut in half, but my electricity consumption remained almost constant at around 25kWh per day year-round, and this is after accounting for seasonal variations.

I also took some specific measurements over the Christmas week when the house was empty with everything possible turned off or down to the minimum settings – and the basic electricity consumption was still 16kWh per day.

To learn more about these numbers, I bought a digital power meter to determine which electrical devices are the main culprits. Research shows that much of the advice from the environmental lobby doesn’t work. They urge people to turn off devices that use almost no power (even on standby) while ignoring devices that gobble up juice. And they are trying to enforce this imbalance in regulation by demanding a “standby” ban on new devices.

The table in green shows the baseline results for my devices, which normally stay plugged in; The yellow and red table shows how much extra would be consumed if the device was left on with standby 24 hours a day. The far right shows the one-way power requirements for devices serving specific occasional applications.

do math

Obviously there will be some differences between households for different manufacturers and usage patterns. For example, we leave a PC running on broadband so it’s ready for immediate use by two adults or three kids – but we’ve made good use of the power management settings to put the PC to sleep if there’s no activity for 10 minutes.

Still, we can conclude that the recent debate about leaving audio visual (AV) equipment and phone chargers on standby is overdone, as our consumption is similar to that of an energy saving lightbulb or two. Put it in perspective. Leaving my phone charger on standby, plugged in but not charging, consumes 0.009 kWh per day. So in effect I could leave it on for over a year – 380 days – to use the same energy as a bath that uses 3.5kWh for a single 90L soak.

Let’s take the microwave. In standby, which consumes 0.096 kWh per day. However, a single shower consumes 1.4 kWh. So leaving the microwave on standby for 14 days uses the same energy as a 40 liter shower at 40ºC.

Most of the publicity surrounding the ban on standby has focused on AV equipment. And what about my TV? If I leave it on standby all day, my 28″ CRT TV consumes 0.168 kWh per day. But if I leave it on all day, it consumes an additional 1.2 kWh.

power hungry

In fact, all the fuss about Standby is based on ridiculously outdated assumptions. Only pre-60’s thermionic valves use full power in standby mode to keep their heating coils warm – unlike nearly all units sold domestically since the transistor’s introduction in the 60’s.

Instead of banning the standby mode entirely, we should demand a standby consumption of less than 1W, which is easily enough to respond to a remote control. I’m afraid if standby mode were banned entirely, people would just leave their devices on instead, using maybe 10 times the power.

The real power guzzlers are refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, showers – and especially bathtubs – and tumble dryers. These consume 20 to 30 times the total power of AV equipment in one day.

Heating water is very expensive, and some waste isn’t obvious – like the hot water that’s left in the pipes after you’ve washed your hands. Insulating your pipes is one way to reduce this waste, and if you have an open chimney that you’re not using, similarly tape an old pad over it.

Washing machines consume relatively little electricity – tumble dryers, on the other hand, are absolute electricity monsters. Try to pull the almost dry synthetic fibers out of the fully spun laundry and spin the rest a second time at full speed to remove most of the water before throwing them in the dryer.

And what about lightbulbs? CFLs aren’t a complete solution as they don’t work with dimmer switches and contain all sorts of nasty metals and chemicals. A simpler solution to reducing energy consumption would be to remove lampshades around the house that dim the light.

All in all, it seems to me that many of the current environmental proposals will ultimately fall on deaf ears, as they hardly take into account detailed scientific measurements.

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The following correction was added on Friday April 13, 2007

Some elements in one of the graphs in the PDF above are overrated by a factor of 10. The first six numbers in the green bar graph (headed Base Connected Equipment Energy Consumption) are correct, but the next 10 should have the decimal point shifted one place to the left; for example, the Telewest decoder gets 0.0288 kWh per day instead of 0.288. The heights of the bar charts are correct, as is the figure at the end for the mobile phone charger.