Low Well Water Pressure After Power Outage? Best 191 Answer

Home water well problems can be traced to many causes, from equipment failure to aquifer depletion to improper well design and construction. Whether faced with a depleted aquifer due to drought or an improperly sized pump, water well contractors spend much of their time responding to and fixing water well problems.

Most problems with water well systems fall into three categories: good, electrical, or mechanical. Industry experts attribute approximately 70 percent of water well system problems to electrical problems involving the motor, wiring, or control systems.

Here are some common challenges that can affect well pump and motor performance, and actions water well companies can take to prevent future problems.

electrical problems

A submersible pump cable without a waterproof splice can cause a short, arc, or electric shock. Likewise, improper wire sizing can cause voltage drop, a condition where some of the supply voltage is lost due to high resistance in the cable itself, which can lead to premature motor failure. It is important to check the wire you are using to make sure it conforms to the manufacturer’s recommended wire size chart.

Water pumps differ in terms of their power requirements depending on the head and flow conditions that are required for the respective application. Ensuring a system is operating within the minimum and maximum flow rates as close to the best efficiency point will provide the longest product life.

In terms of incoming power supply, most motors are rated for +/- 10 percent of rated voltage. In some cases, such as When using a variable frequency drive (VFD), for example, voltage fluctuations of up to 15 percent are acceptable. However, if the voltage is outside the product’s recommended range, you risk excessive heating of the motor windings, which can lead to nuisance tripping and greatly reduce the life of the motor. High voltage also often results in higher motor speed resulting in higher pump loading and over current situations, while low voltage conditions can result in a no-start situation. Proper training and use of a troubleshooting meter is beneficial, as is an understanding of key properties such as frequency, resistance, and capacitance.

While pump motors and pump controllers might be able to handle a moderate electrical surge, high-energy surges such as lightning strikes can cause severe damage and are almost impossible to protect. Many single-phase submersible motors and VFDs today come with built-in surge protection, but it is important to follow proper electrical practices per local codes to ensure grounding and proper installation of all circuit breakers/fuses. In areas prone to surges, mainly due to bad weather, it’s also a good idea to contact the manufacturer for any additional protections they may offer or recommend. Please note that the use of RCDs with some VFDs may not be possible due to potentially high leakage currents to motor, drive and drop cable earth.

mechanical problems

Abrasives such as sand and sediment can wreak havoc on hydraulic components and system bearings, leading to mechanical problems that can affect water well performance. To counteract the wear effects of abrasive materials, pump manufacturers are developing submersible pumps with a floating impeller stack design, which features rotating components that do not come into contact with each other and allow sand and other rough materials to pass easily. This results in extended life and lasting performance over time.

Pump manufacturers like Xylem are also increasingly constructing downhole components from more durable materials, including bearings made from engineered polymers that are more resistant to damage from sand, abrasives and dry running.

Another common mechanical problem is faulty pressure switches. When homeowners notice low or uneven water pressure, the solution often is to adjust or replace the pressure switch and make sure the pressure line to the switch is not clogged. The switch signals the well pump to start or stop pumping depending on the pressure in the water system.

Water pressure problems can also indicate a bad check valve. If the check valve is stuck open, the pump can rotate backwards, causing additional wear and significant stress on the pump and motor if it was running. The empty pipe and the non-pressurized difference between the suction and discharge lines can create a buoyancy condition at take-off that causes serious damage. If the check valve is stuck in the closed position, the pump will drain, adding significant energy to the water in the pump. The result is excessive heat and no cooling flow for the motor, which can result in damage to the motor, pump, and fountain body.

Other challenges for downhole systems

Problems with the water fountain system may have nothing to do with a faulty or broken fountain component. Instead, they can be traced back to improper system sizing or poor downhole conditions, e.g. a low-yield well, a plugged screen, or rough water conditions.

If an incorrectly sized pump is used, the water well system may not deliver enough water to keep up with demand. At the same time, to avoid an overpumping condition, it is important never to install a pump that has a larger capacity than the well. A good starting point for pump selection is to refer to a standard seven-minute peak-demand method using either a total number of appliances or the number of bathrooms in the house. In situations where demand exceeds well capacity, additional storage in the form of a larger pressure tank and/or the addition of a flow restriction device would be required to control flow to well capacity. For extremely low yields, an atmospheric storage tank can be used with a second pressurization pump.

It is also important that residential water well systems have the correct size pressure vessel. An improperly sized tank can cause the pump to run short – cycling on and off too frequently, increased energy consumption, and premature pump failure if excessive heat builds up. The heat is generated by the high current flow when starting the motor and requires water to flow past the motor to ensure proper cooling. Ideally, the pressure tank should be dimensioned so large that the pump has a minimum running time of one minute – better two minutes – each time it is started.

Contractors should also be aware of how changes in household demand can affect an existing water well system. Homeowners may not consider whether their existing well pump can handle the increased water usage that could result from a kitchen remodel or bathroom expansion.

Recognizing the symptoms of common well problems can ultimately help contractors identify their causes and select the appropriate course of action before significant damage to the well pump and motor occurs.

Many homes in the Hudson Valley and across the United States get their water supply from private wells. These private wells use electric well pumps to draw water from the water source and deliver it to the household. If there is a power failure, your fountain pump will not work. You will continue to use water for a short time as your system draws the remaining water from the well reservoir. However, once that water is depleted, you will not have access to fresh water until power is restored.

In many cases, this is not an immediate problem as power outages are often short-lived. But in the Hudson Valley, where areas are prone to large storms that can knock out power for days, it’s a constant concern.

How to avoid water loss during a storm

One of the best ways to avoid having your water supply shut off during a power outage is to install a backup generator in your Hudson Valley home to provide power to vital appliances. The size and scope of your backup generator system depends on how extensively a system needs to be maintained. If you only need to power one sump pump, a smaller, gasoline-powered pump should do the trick. The more fixtures and appliances you add to the load, such as lights, well pump, furnace, refrigerator, etc., the larger the backup generator needs to be.

If you are using a gas powered generator, please make sure it is placed outside; not in a crawl space, basement, or attached garage. Make sure the generator is securely connected. And as soon as power is restored, immediately disconnect the generator.

How to flush your toilet without a working fountain pump

If you don’t have a backup generator and the power goes out – remember you can still flush toilets and then pour water into the toilet tank (not the bowl) before flushing again. This is a smart way to conserve drinking water that you still have access to. To do this, first turn off the water supply to the toilet. Most residential and commercial toilets have emergency shut offs with the water line going to the toilet. Then use gray water (melted snow or ice, pool water, etc.) to fill the toilet tank before each flush.

Conserving water during a power outage allows you to continue with a usable water supply for an extended period of time. Try to limit shower times, drink bottled water, and avoid using washers, washers, or other household appliances that require water. If you have any questions here, be sure to call a plumber or electrician.

After power is restored

The power went out and the fountain pump doesn’t work after power is restored? 2 things that could be wrong

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If you have a power outage at home and run out of water after the power is restored, this could be a problem with your well pump. Luckily, there are things you can check for yourself to see if this is the problem. You can then get the help you need to keep you and your family water.

Check the circuit breaker

It could be something as simple as the circuit breaker. Find the switchboard in your house. This can be in a closet, in a hallway, etc. Open the control cabinet door and you will see the circuit breakers. Each breaker should be labeled for what it drives. Find the one marked Well Pump. If the switch is in the opposite direction to the other switches, it has tripped.

Just rotate the breaker so it goes in the same direction as the others. Now go outside and see if you can hear your fountain pump running. If you do, go inside and see if you have water. This should fix your problem. If you are not comfortable working with the circuits, you can hire an electrician to check it for you. However, if you still have no water, there could be a problem with the low pressure switch.

Check the low pressure switch

If there is no water after a power failure, it is often due to the low-pressure switch. This is because the tank needs to have some pressure to keep the water level where it needs to be. When there is no current, the pressure drops and causes the pressure to drop. This then lowers the water level. In this case, the low-pressure switch switches off automatically. The switch turns off to prevent damage to your well pump as running a pump dry causes serious problems.

Fortunately, once power is restored to your home, you can check this yourself. Go outside to the well pump and look between the pressure tank and the well. This is where the pressure switch is located. The push switch is a box and you will see a lever on the box. The lever is probably down. In this case, use pliers and lift the lever again. Keep raising it until you hear the water pump start up again and then stop. Look at the pressure gauge to make sure it has increased as well. How high the pressure should be depends on your well pump. A plumber can give you this information if you need help.

Go into your house and turn on a faucet to see if you have water. When you first turn on the faucet, the water will likely bubble for a few minutes and then it should start flowing freely. Contact a company like County Pump & Supply Co for more information and assistance.

July 11, 2017

Does your house get its water from a well system? If you answered yes, you probably have low water pressure as well. Instead of living with low water pressure (which can be unfortunate for many), there are methods you can use to improve water pressure. You can start by…

Maintenance of your water pressure tank

The average water pressure in a home should be between 40psi and 60psi. For those who need to increase this number:

Turn off the circuit dedicated to the well pump. Test the air fill valve with an air pressure gauge and see where your pressure is (pipe connecting the fountain and pressure tank) Turn on the circuit and test the water by opening a faucet. If necessary, reset it by repeating these steps

Have your pipes checked and cleaned

A common reason for low water pressure is pipes clogged with tons of sediment and minerals. This buildup occurs in homes with hard water, damaging plumbing and preventing smooth water flow. Combat this by inspecting and cleaning your pipes and having a water softener installed (or having your current one serviced).

Installing a new constant pressure system

To help your pressure tank provide increased water pressure to your home, consider installing a constant pressure system. This piece installs on the water line entering your home and prevents the water pressure from dropping when using multiple fittings. Contact your local plumber to install new parts and parts and inspect and service your plumbing.

Not sure if a constant pressure system is right for you? The experts at Len The Plumber also offer water pressure booster pumps and can help you find the best solution for your well water system!

What is the ideal water pressure for a fountain?

The best water pressure for a fountain is 40psi to 60psi. Low water pressure can have many different causes, but there are just as many ways to improve it. If your fountain is working less, call a plumber. When you need a reliable plumber to service your well system and fix low water pressure, turn to Len The Plumber.

Call Len The Plumber at (800) 950-4619 or contact us online to request water heater services in MD, DC, VA, PA or DE.

Angie Hicks

Angie’s List/MCT

Q. How do we determine if we need a new well pump? Our water pressure dropped for several months. Then the other night we came home and had no running water at all. The pump circuit breaker appears to be fine.

A. The first thing to do when you are out of water is to turn off the power to the pump and water heater. This prevents possible further damage.

Then it’s time to find the cause of the problem. It is best to contact a reputable, experienced borehole constructor. Your well pump might be the most likely suspect, but there could be other reasons for your dry spell.

You mentioned that you experienced decreased water pressure. This is an indication of a possible problem with a well pump or water tank. Here are others:

• Dirty water

• Loud or strange noises

• Air “squirts” out of the tap

• Unusually high electricity bills (which may indicate that a pump must run continuously to maintain water pressure)

Meanwhile, anything that stresses the well pump can lead to its premature failure. Among the situations that can lead to a pump failure:

• The expansion tank loses pressure. The tank is a closed container that the pump fills with water. As water fills the tank, the air within is compressed, usually by an air-filled vinyl bladder, until the pressure is high enough to trip the pressure switch. When someone opens a faucet, the air pressure in the tank squeezes the bladder and forces water out. When enough water is used to lower the pressure, the switch turns the pump back on and the cycle repeats. When the tank loses its pressure (its “prime” that comes with the tank from the factory), the pump has to work overtime to keep the tank full.

• A power failure. Unless the fountain pump has a backup power source such as a battery or backup generator, it will usually stop working if you lose your power.

• Failure to initiate repairs. Common well pump repairs include replacing the pressure switch (about $20-$40 plus a service call) or replacing the tank ($250-$500 plus installation costs).

Well experts say it’s a good idea to schedule an annual inspection of your well and its equipment. Such a service should cost $100-$120.

In the meantime, prepare for a significant expense if you need a new well pump. It costs approximately $1,000 to replace and install a pump and associated components in a shallow wellbore. For a drilled well, the price can be as high as $2,000 depending on well depth and pump capacity.

Older or shallow wells can use an above-ground jet pump to draw water from the well. Electric submersible pumps that push water upwards are more common. They typically feature a sealed motor that is lowered into the wellbore and has an above-ground power source.

Well pump companies can usually repair wells that rely on above-ground pumps more easily than those that use submersible pumps. To repair a submersible pump, it almost always has to be pulled out of the well. Fortunately, most submersible pumps are rated to last up to 25 years, but they won’t last as long if a well has a lot of sediment or other particles.

Make sure you hire a fountain contractor that has good reviews online and is appropriately licensed at the local or state level. Contact your local health or water department to find out what type of permit is required where you live.

Licensing requirements may also depend on the type of work being done. For example, some well contractors may be licensed to provide drilling, repair and sealing services. Others may be limited to a service such as installing pumps, or to a limited range of services such as certain types of wells or drilling.

Angie Hicks is the founder of www.AngiesList.com, a provider of consumer reviews and services. Email questions to [email protected] or tweet #AskAngie. Follow her @Angie – Hicks.

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Power failures are part of life, especially when you rely on self-sufficient energy. While it’s not life-threatening, if the power goes out for an extended period of time, it can cause your well pump to malfunction and leave you without water.

Even after power is restored, your fountain pump may still have trouble working. To get it working again you need to check both the circuit breaker and the pressure switch. If these are working correctly, priming your pump should solve the problem.

As you know from installing your shallow well pump, this system requires water to create suction, but if you’ve been using water during a power outage, the pressure can drop enough that air can enter the system. An airlock can cause pressure fluctuations and inhibit your system’s siphon performance.

Priming your pump means filling it with clean water to remove airlocks or debris that is preventing the pump from operating properly, and is a straightforward process whether you have a convertible jet pump or a centrifugal model.

Even so-called self-priming pumps may need to be primed manually after a power failure. If the water level is too low, the self-priming process cannot take place and your pump will need a little maintenance to get it up to speed again.

Finding the best source of groundwater

The first challenge you face is getting water to prime your pump since your well pump is not currently delivering water to your household system. You need the cleanest water you can find, as dirt or debris could damage the pump.

One option is to draw water from your toilet tank, assuming it’s still full and the water is clean.

Alternatively, you could drain a few gallons of water from your hot water tank, although this may contain some rust or other debris. In a pinch, you could use water from a stream or dam, but again you need to make sure it’s as clean as possible.

You could use a simple survival water filter to remove particles and ensure a safe priming process.

How to prepare a jet fountain pump

This common type of pump is one of the easiest to prime. All you have to do is follow these simple steps:

Turn off the power to your fountain pump before beginning the priming process. This will prevent the pump from activating automatically once pressure is restored. Open a faucet in your system to relieve any residual water pressure in the system, and then turn it off again. If you skip this step, you could get an unexpected shiver when you open the suction port on your pump! Most jet pumps are of a standard design and typically the suction plug is located on top of the pump mechanism. Depending on the make, the ignition plug is usually a hex or square threaded metal plug that you unscrew with a combination or adjustable wrench. (see picture above) Once you have removed the plug you can fill the suction port with water. About two gallons is sufficient for most types of jet pumps, and you can use a funnel to simplify the process and prevent water from splashing on sensitive parts of the pump like the pressure gauge. Continue to fill the priming fitting until it begins to overflow, then replace and tighten the priming plug. If you want to ensure your system is operating at peak suction, add a turn or two of PTFE thread seal tape to the plug before replacing it. Reapply power to your pump, keeping an eye on the water pressure gauge, which should rise steadily. The sound of the pump should also change from the raspy wheeze of a dry mechanism to the muffled sound of a water-filled system. If the pressure doesn’t increase or the pump keeps making that scraping noise, repeat the priming process. A pump often requires two or more consecutive primes before the water level in the system rises enough to generate sufficient suction to operate. Once normal water pressure is restored, turn on a faucet and let the water flow for a few minutes. This action flushes out any contaminants, bacteria, or other pests that may have entered the system during the priming process. You can capture this water and keep it near your pump, giving you a handy supply of groundwater for next time.

The best way to fill a centrifugal well pump

Submersible pumps are self-priming and because they are submerged in water, air cannot enter these systems.

Although some centrifugal pumps are self-priming, the self-priming process will not work if air has entered the system, meaning you must prime the pump manually.

To do this, follow these three steps:

Open the suction port on top of the pump and fill it with water. Slowly open the suction shut-off valve and the vent holes on the suction and discharge lines. Wait for the pumped water to flow from the vents, then close both vents and suction shut-off valve.

If the process of manually priming is just too daunting for you, you can install a second self-priming pump that will do this for you and double as a pressure booster for your well pump.

Some pumps come with an ejector kit that primes the pump by using compressed air to create a vacuum in the suction line.

Although priming a well pump is necessary, over priming can cause problems. For example, priming a centrifugal pump for more than 10 minutes can cause the liquid in the pump to vaporize before priming is complete. This can damage the pump, leading to even more inconvenience and expense.

Conclusion

Priming a pump is a simple process that can quickly get your fountain pump back to normal operation after a power outage.

You can avoid the need for priming after a power outage by turning off your water supply as soon as the power goes out. This allows you to maintain a higher water level in the system and prevent air from entering the pipes.

If all else fails, make sure you have a good quality hand pump installed as a backup.

Plumbing systems can make some very strange noises; It is sometimes even used as a cheap scare in horror movies. The loud gurgling and sustained vibration noises are nothing to worry about! This is just an indication that there is air in your water lines.

There are several reasons why air is trapped in your pipes and spraying out of your faucets. Some of the more common causes are:

Leaks in your water well system or plumbing,

Malfunction or loose check valves,

Small air pockets that form when the water is heated, or

A well pump cannot suck in enough water, causing a water-air mixture to be pumped.

Luckily, fixing this type of plumbing problem is an easy DIY project that you shouldn’t hire a professional plumber to do (unless you REALLY screw it up somehow). Just follow these simple steps to “blow out” those pesky air bubbles and stop worrying about those loud noises behind the walls!

Remove air from your pipes in 3 easy steps

Step 1: Turn off your main water supply valve

Find your main water supply valve and make sure it is fully closed. It should be either outside or inside depending on whether you live in a warm or cool climate.

Step 2: Open each faucet

To get all the air out of your pipes, you should turn on (after turning off the water valve) every faucet in your home or building. Don’t turn on the faucets full force, just enough to let the air out. Basically, you want every faucet that has a water supply, including washing machines and dishwashers, to be turned on. Start with the faucet closest to the shut-off valve and work your way to the farthest faucet. Open each hot and cold water faucet about halfway to allow air to escape. Also remember to flush all the water out of the toilets.

Step 3: Turn on your main water supply

Once all of your faucets are turned on, including the outside spigots, turn the water valve all the way on. Run the water through all your faucets for 10-15 minutes to ensure you see a steady stream of water or hear no more noise from your plumbing. For washing machines and dishwashers, pour a cup of water and run the appliances through a rinse cycle. A steady flow indicates that there is no more air in your water lines. You can then turn off all your faucets by working your way back from the farthest faucet to the nearest.

Having air in your pipes will not damage your home or building plumbing system, so don’t worry! What people confuse air in their pipes with is the possibility of a water hammer situation. Water hammer occurs when water flowing through the pipes changes direction rapidly because someone turned a water valve or faucet too quickly, forcing the water to flow backwards into the piping system. This can cause excessive pressure and damage your water system.

If you’re still having trouble with the installation or have low water pressure, it’s best to consult a professional plumber to make sure the problem isn’t more serious. Installers have the tools and training to identify existing installation problems and provide solutions to resolve them. Contact Express Sewer today to learn more about our plumbing services and receive a 20% discount coupon when you try our services as a first time customer!

copy

Hello, I’m Joe Fiorani. I’m one of the senior engineers here at Carroll Water and today I’m here to explain when you need to replace your pressure tank.

One of the things I like to tell a customer is that they can do a simple tap test. Basically I’m looking for where the water level is in your tank. Most of this tank is filled with air, so you’ll hear that hollow sound.

When you reach the waterline you will hear a solid sound. If for some reason you hear a solid noise from most of the top of the tank, that tank is usually waterlogged. Then we recommend the exchange.

What can happen with a full tank is a problem with your well pump that we call short cycling. You can check the gauge down below and if you run water of any kind and that pressure jumps up, which is (usually) 60 PSI, up to 40, and it does a lot and so very frequently, that’s usually a bad one Tank.

Then you should give us a call at Carroll Water and we can replace your tank for you.

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Power failures are part of life, especially when you rely on self-sufficient energy. While it’s not life-threatening, if the power goes out for an extended period of time, it can cause your well pump to malfunction and leave you without water.

Even after power is restored, your fountain pump may still have trouble working. To get it working again you need to check both the circuit breaker and the pressure switch. If these are working correctly, priming your pump should solve the problem.

As you know from installing your shallow well pump, this system requires water to create suction, but if you’ve been using water during a power outage, the pressure can drop enough that air can enter the system. An airlock can cause pressure fluctuations and inhibit your system’s siphon performance.

Priming your pump means filling it with clean water to remove airlocks or debris that is preventing the pump from operating properly, and is a straightforward process whether you have a convertible jet pump or a centrifugal model.

Even so-called self-priming pumps may need to be primed manually after a power failure. If the water level is too low, the self-priming process cannot take place and your pump will need a little maintenance to get it up to speed again.

Finding the best source of groundwater

The first challenge you face is getting water to prime your pump since your well pump is not currently delivering water to your household system. You need the cleanest water you can find, as dirt or debris could damage the pump.

One option is to draw water from your toilet tank, assuming it’s still full and the water is clean.

Alternatively, you could drain a few gallons of water from your hot water tank, although this may contain some rust or other debris. In a pinch, you could use water from a stream or dam, but again you need to make sure it’s as clean as possible.

You could use a simple survival water filter to remove particles and ensure a safe priming process.

How to prepare a jet fountain pump

This common type of pump is one of the easiest to prime. All you have to do is follow these simple steps:

Turn off the power to your fountain pump before beginning the priming process. This will prevent the pump from activating automatically once pressure is restored. Open a faucet in your system to relieve any residual water pressure in the system, and then turn it off again. If you skip this step, you could get an unexpected shiver when you open the suction port on your pump! Most jet pumps are of a standard design and typically the suction plug is located on top of the pump mechanism. Depending on the make, the ignition plug is usually a hex or square threaded metal plug that you unscrew with a combination or adjustable wrench. (see picture above) Once you have removed the plug you can fill the suction port with water. About two gallons is sufficient for most types of jet pumps, and you can use a funnel to simplify the process and prevent water from splashing on sensitive parts of the pump like the pressure gauge. Continue to fill the priming fitting until it begins to overflow, then replace and tighten the priming plug. If you want to ensure your system is operating at peak suction, add a turn or two of PTFE thread seal tape to the plug before replacing it. Reapply power to your pump, keeping an eye on the water pressure gauge, which should rise steadily. The sound of the pump should also change from the raspy wheeze of a dry mechanism to the muffled sound of a water-filled system. If the pressure doesn’t increase or the pump keeps making that scraping noise, repeat the priming process. A pump often requires two or more consecutive primes before the water level in the system rises enough to generate sufficient suction to operate. Once normal water pressure is restored, turn on a faucet and let the water flow for a few minutes. This action flushes out any contaminants, bacteria, or other pests that may have entered the system during the priming process. You can capture this water and keep it near your pump, giving you a handy supply of groundwater for next time.

The best way to fill a centrifugal well pump

Submersible pumps are self-priming and because they are submerged in water, air cannot enter these systems.

Although some centrifugal pumps are self-priming, the self-priming process will not work if air has entered the system, meaning you must prime the pump manually.

To do this, follow these three steps:

Open the suction port on top of the pump and fill it with water. Slowly open the suction shut-off valve and the vent holes on the suction and discharge lines. Wait for the pumped water to flow from the vents, then close both vents and suction shut-off valve.

If the process of manually priming is just too daunting for you, you can install a second self-priming pump that will do this for you and double as a pressure booster for your well pump.

Some pumps come with an ejector kit that primes the pump by using compressed air to create a vacuum in the suction line.

Although priming a well pump is necessary, over priming can cause problems. For example, priming a centrifugal pump for more than 10 minutes can cause the liquid in the pump to vaporize before priming is complete. This can damage the pump, leading to even more inconvenience and expense.

Conclusion

Priming a pump is a simple process that can quickly get your fountain pump back to normal operation after a power outage.

You can avoid the need for priming after a power outage by turning off your water supply as soon as the power goes out. This allows you to maintain a higher water level in the system and prevent air from entering the pipes.

If all else fails, make sure you have a good quality hand pump installed as a backup.

step 4

Temporary quick fix

If hitting the pipe under the pressure switch triggers the well pump, it means the electrical contact pads have pitted or burned, resulting in a bad connection. You can restore the finishes temporarily to keep them running until you can purchase a replacement switch.

First turn off the power and check with a voltage tester.

Pull the contacts open and file off the burned and scarred areas with an ordinary nail file or emery board.

Replace the pressure switch as soon as possible as this solution will not last long.

CONFIRM THAT THE POWER IS OFF! Before replacing the pushbutton switch or filing the contacts, turn off power at the main panel and check the wires with a non-contact voltage tester.