Moving Furniture For Painting? Quick Answer

This is me. And this is my credenza. which probably weighs somewhere around 300 pounds, maybe more. I’m not kidding – it’s a monster. And I weigh about 105 wet. But I was able to move it from one end of the room to the other without breaking a sweat and without ending up in the hospital or with residual back pain. how did i do it I’ve got a few tricks up my skinny arms.

Painting can be overwhelming. Here are some quick painting tips to help you make painting your next room even easier. Read on to learn the 5 painting mistakes you might be making.

I’ve painted an insane amount of rooms over the years.

When we moved into our first home, all the walls were painted a rather interesting shade of purple. We painted most of the house before we even moved in (read on to see why I don’t recommend that!).

In our second home it was a similar song and dance. We didn’t like the color on all the walls, they were dirty and stained, so by the time we moved out we had painted almost every single wall in the whole house!

Often when I’m talking to friends or other people who are interested in DIY but still feel a little overwhelmed, they cite painting rooms as one of the most awesome things to do.

What if I make a mistake?

What if I hate the color?

I just don’t know what to do!

Well, fear not. I’m here to share the 5 most common mistakes people make when painting rooms and I’m going to tell you exactly how to avoid them. Make yourself comfortable and get excited because it’s going to be a full day of learning!

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MISTAKE #1: Not choosing the right paint color.

When you’re dying to start with a room, it’s tempting to just pick up a pretty swatch from the paint store and call it a tag. Do not do that! You might like how a color looks on a piece of paper in the store, but when you come home and actually put the color on your walls, it might look very different. My favorite example of this is when my parents decided to paint their dining room without testing the colors first – they chose what they thought was a pretty, deep burgundy color… they came home, painted the room and found that they were done were with something much closer to Pepto Bismol Pink. It’s a pretty extreme example, but it happens!

The lighting in your room can play with a color a lot more than you would ever realize, and it’s important to take a color home and try it out before making any decisions. Luckily, it only costs about $3 to get a sample pot of the color you want at your local paint or hardware store, and it will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. I like to take at least three or four different colors, bring them home, and paint about a 1 foot by 1 foot square on each wall in the room. Why every wall? Because the light will hit each wall of your room at different angles and with different intensities, and you may love the color on one side of the room and hate it on the other. Paint your patterns and live with them in the room for at least 24 hours before choosing your favorite – you’ll want to see how it looks in several different lighting situations before you decide, as early morning light can make the color look noticeably different than the late afternoon light.

Once you’ve lived with the colors for a while, you can make your decision. You might not like any of the colors you choose the first time around – that’s okay! It takes time to learn how to choose the right colors to test and for this room we tested more than 10 colors before we were satisfied. Take your time to choose, think about it and make sure you love it before you start painting.

Bonus tip: I used to choose a paint color as one of the very first things in a room renovation. I’ve since learned that this is a great way to paint yourself into a corner (hah!) and end up with a room that frustrates you. Instead, center your design around a loved piece like a rug or piece of art and go from there. Your color should be one of the last things you choose after the room is fully decorated!

MISTAKE #2: Not stirring the paint before you start.

I know it sounds silly, but I know a lot of people who have forgotten this small step, and if you skip it, you’ll have serious regrets. Even if you start painting the moment you walk out of the hardware store, it’s worth taking a moment to stir up the paint before you begin. Yes, the shop will mix it for you, but it may not be thoroughly mixed, and if you don’t take 30 seconds to do it yourself, you may end up with a lighter color on top of your walls and a darker color on the bottom ! Just stir the damn paint, okay?

The paint store will usually give you a stirring stick, but if they don’t, you can use a piece of wood to stir it up. I’ve even been known to sacrifice a pencil in desperate moments! My best tip, though, is to just snag a few — like this 200-pack for just $20. That means you’ll never have to worry about it again!

MISTAKE #3: Forgetting to prepare the room beforehand.

I paint long enough to admit that I don’t always lay out handkerchiefs or get too terribly anal when it comes to preparing a room before I begin. But if you’re a beginner at room painting, you should take a minute to at least lay down a cloth on the floor, cover up valuable furniture, and move things out of the way before you start. Ten minutes of prep work can save you hours of cleanup later if you make a mistake — I’ll never forget when my college roommate spilled a whole gallon of paint on the floor of her bedroom in our apartment while trying to paint the room… It wasn’t fun cleaning it up!

It needs to get messier before it starts looking better. That’s the way it is, friends.

As a minimum, I recommend the following for painting preparation:

Move all furniture out of the way. It’s best to move it out of the room, but you can just collect it in the middle of the room if that’s not an option.

Place a drop cloth on the floor where you will be painting. Remember that cloth drop towels absorb paint. So if you spill something, they just seep onto the floor below. They’re great for drips, but if you’re worried about something bigger, stick to the plastic drip wipes.

Tape off your baseboards, paneling and ceilings.

Wipe down your walls with a damp cloth to remove dust, dirt, or cobwebs.

MISTAKE #4: Relying too much on the painter’s tape.

Painter’s tape is a wonderful thing if you’re new to painting and don’t want to accidentally get paint on your ceiling — but I’ll let you a secret: I almost never use it when painting walls. It’s my best friend when it comes to painting furniture or drawing patterns on things, but I find that painting rooms often just makes me lazy.

You see, painter’s tape is not infallible. Color often bleeds through in small patches here and there, and if you rely solely on your paint lines staying clean, you’ll end up sorely disappointed.

So what should you do? My best advice is to do a combo. Go ahead and mask off your baseboards and walls (especially if you have a shaky hand). But then, get a good quality, short-handled, angled brush (this one is my favorite) and go about it with loads of patience and a steady hand. Pretend you’re doing it freehand and do your best not to get any paint on the tape.

That way the tape can act as a failsafe for you if you make a mistake, but you should never just go wild with the brush and trust the tape to handle it.

When you’re done, immediately pull the tape up. If you let the paint dry on the tape, you might pull some of it with you when you remove it!

Bonus tip: If you’re painting an accent wall or stripes and using painter’s tape to divide the colors on your wall, be sure to paint over the edge of the tape with your base color before applying the new color. This will seal the tape and help create a perfectly sharp line with no bleed through!

MISTAKE #5: Don’t take care of your brushes.

Listen, I’m absolutely the worst at keeping my brushes clean. Seriously – no one goes through brushes more than me. But over the years I’ve learned a few key tips and tricks to make it easier and at least slightly reduce the number of perfectly good brushes that I absolutely destroy.

My first prank? If you’re going to be taking a break from painting for more than about 15 minutes, wrap your brush and roller in a plastic bag and put them in the fridge. It keeps paint from drying and ruining brushes, and when you’re ready to get back to work you can just take them out and get straight to work. This even works if you stop for the night and pick up again in the morning. I’ve left brushes in the fridge and successfully used them up to 48 hours later, but it’s really tiring – this trick is really only mean for those times when you need to let your first coat dry for a few hours. If you are going to be away for more than 12 hours, it is best to clean the brush thoroughly and let it dry again before using it again.

The easiest way to clean your brushes is with a good old hose in the garden. There is no way around it – it is tedious, not fun and annoying. But it’s a great way to save some money (especially if you use quality brushes) and saves you from having to run to the store every time you want to paint something. Of course, there will be times when you accidentally leave a brush out too long and the paint dries out. But don’t worry – it might not be ruined yet. I have a really simple trick to bring brushes back to life when they’ve been left out, and you’ll be surprised how well it works.

When it comes to paint rollers, I find that the cleaning effort is usually not worth it. In order to actually be reusable, they must be 100% stripped of paint, which is often more trouble than it’s worth. When I’m being particularly frugal, I take the time to do this after I’m done painting, but most of the time I just throw them away when I’m done and buy them next time I need paint.

Finally, when it comes to the paint pan, the easiest way to clean it is to pour the remaining paint back into the can and then let the leftovers dry in the pan. Once it’s completely dry, you can peel it right off – it’s oddly satisfying, like the grown-up version of Elmer’s Glue when you put Elmer’s Glue on your hands in elementary school. You can also buy paint tray liners if you don’t want to bother with them – they make a world of difference!

favorite painting tools

Before I go, here’s a short list of all my favorite painting tools. I’m pretty picky about what I use, so you know these are the best of the best!

Now that you know how to paint a room and avoid all the common pitfalls, you’re ready to do it! Pull all the furniture away from the walls, pick a good podcast to listen to, and get to work! I actually find it quite relaxing, and I don’t actually mind painting rooms.

Do you like to paint or are you afraid of it?

You’ve selected your colors, bought paint and accessories and you’re good to go. There’s just one small problem: what do you do with your furniture? You could do your best to paint it around, but there are better ways to paint a furnished room in your home.

Paint first

The best scenario is an empty room at first. If you haven’t moved into the room yet, take advantage of the empty space and paint now. It’s a lot easier to paint a room when you don’t have to worry about moving and covering your furniture and other items. However, you may still want to use some drop cloths to protect the floor.

Move the furniture

If you already live in the house or apartment, it might be a good idea to remove some or all of the furniture from the room that you want to paint. If you can temporarily move the furniture to another room in your house, give yourself a better blank canvas. Just be careful when putting everything back in place so you don’t scratch your freshly painted walls!

Use drop wipes

Plastic sheets and drapes are available in different sizes. If you can’t move the furniture to another room, move it away from the walls you want to paint. Gather everything in the center of the room and cover everything with good quality plastic wrap or a thick cloth. This will help protect your furniture from unwanted drips and splashes.

As you paint the ceiling, you may have to gradually move the furniture back and forth. Be sure to cover everything completely after moving it, and watch out for wet paint that got on your drapes.

With a little preparation, you can save time and protect your furniture. Of course, the professionals at Major Painting are always at your side with help and advice. Contact us today for more information.

In this video, Kevin O’Connor meets veteran painter Mauro Henrique to discuss painting techniques. Mauro begins by showing Kevin how a professional painter holds a brush. Then Mauro loads the brush with paint and shows Kevin how to properly paint a piece of baseboard. After purposely dabbing paint on the wall, Mauro shows Kevin how to wipe it clean before discussing the benefits of painter’s tape.

How to hold a brush

To paint like a pro, you have to hold the brush like a pro. Lay the handle of the brush flat across the back of your thumb while holding the ferrule (the piece of metal that holds the bristles together) between your index and middle fingers. The tip of an angled brush should be on the finger side, not the thumb side.

How long does it take to paint a room?

Painters spend two to four days painting an average sized room. That’s how long it takes to properly prep, prime and paint. It’s more work, but if you sit back and admire the results, you’ll agree it’s time well spent.

21 tips to paint like a pro

1. Eliminate bugs while they’re wet

If a stray brushstroke lands on the wall, don’t worry – wet paint is pretty easy to clean up. If you have a damp cloth nearby, you can stretch the fabric over your finger and wipe the wet paint off the wall. Just be sure to crumple the excess cloth in your palm to prevent it from touching the wet baseboard.

2. Even professionals use painter’s tape – sometimes

There are times when even the pros use masking tape. When painting against finished surfaces like floors and woodwork, they often stretch tape over the surface to protect it. However, when it comes to painting walls and trim, they typically forgo the duct tape for their skill and steady hands.

Most of us are good at painting a room. But a seasoned pro does a great job. Of course, professionals have more experience than the average homeowner, but they also know techniques and tricks that make them better painters.

3. Remove everything from the room

First, move everything out of the room. Every painter we spoke to had a horror story about the time they didn’t follow rule #1. Larger pieces of furniture can sometimes remain covered in the middle of larger rooms, but when you’re repairing drywall, says Chris Span Span’s Quality Painting in Mobile, Alabama, “Take it all out. Drywall dust goes everywhere.”

Remove doors, lights, and hardware and label everything with masking tape. Invest in drop cloths too. “It’s surprising how well a few drops of paint can cover a floor,” says Rich Maceyunas of Maceyunas Painting and Wallpaper in Waterbury, Connecticut. Buy quality drapes, such as B. canvas or paper-coated plastic. Be aware that color will bleed through light fabrics and bed sheets. Plastic wrap works, but is very slippery and won’t pick up drips.

4. Find cracks and dents and then repair them

Even an old lamp with a bare bulb held close to a wall will pop out small cracks, dents, or nail pops. Carmen Toto, owner of C. Toto & Sons in Madison, New Jersey, uses painter’s putty or a light-weight putty for minor cracks and dents; He uses plaster of paris for dents deeper than 1/8 inch.

Instead of the standard tape-and-spackle method of bridging recurring stress cracks, Maceyunas uses a rubberized spray primer called Good-Bye Crack. Damaged wood requires a slightly different approach. “Don’t use putty on wood,” says Toto, “because it just won’t stick.”

For damaged trim, he uses a painter’s putty or a two-part wood putty like Minwax’s High Performance Filler. Smooth out any repairs, bumps, and peaks with a drywall die sander. For smoother walls and better adhesion, some of our professionals will sand down all previously painted walls, regardless of the shape they are in.

5. Complete the two-step grinding process

Sanding not only softens chipped paint, but also gives “tooth” for the next coat of paint. For shiny trim, use a sanding sponge instead of sandpaper. Sponges conform to the shape of the border and last longer than paper.

When applying latex to alkyd paint or when unsure of the original finish, Brian Doherty, a painter in Richmond, Virginia, follows manual sanding with liquid sandpaper to ensure the finish is completely deglazed to avoid incompatibility issues . “I’ve seen houses where latex was used for oil-painted paneling and the paint would peel off in less than a year,” says Doherty.

6. Sponge bath walls

If you don’t like textured walls, don’t paint over dust. Wash the walls with trisodium phosphate (TSP) or a mild cleaner like Jasco’s TSP No-Rinse Substitute. For smoke-stained walls, Toto uses a 50/50 solution of bleach and water.

To clean a wall, use two buckets. Load your rag or sponge from your bucket of cleaning solution and scrub. Before re-immersing, rinse the sponge in a second bucket of clean water.

7. Seal all cracks

Filling gaps with a paintable acrylic latex sealer reduces drafts and keeps your trim looking better than new. The secret to using caulk is to trim the tip smaller than you think it should be; too much caulking makes a mess.

Also, instead of using a nail to break the inner seal, use a small wire so you don’t stretch the nozzle. Also, consider purchasing a non-drip caulking gun that automatically reduces pressure after each trigger pull to prevent unwanted spills.

8. Choose a powerful primer

Primers aren’t just diluted paint. They are formulated to create a solid, even base, seal in stains and ensure top coats apply smoothly and adhere securely to the surface. “Most homeowners use latex primers, but professionals stick with alcohol and alkyd primers because they cover almost everything,” says John Weeks of John the Painter in Mobile, Alabama. Primer can affect the appearance of the top coat. “It’s okay to spot prime the ceilings, but not the walls because primed spots will show up,” adds Span.

Related All About Painting

9. Buy quality paint

In general, glossier colors are more stain-resistant and scrubbable. But a higher gloss also highlights imperfections in the wall or paintwork. “Matte colors work well for ceilings and formal spaces, but I recommend an eggshell sheen for most of my clients. It works well in hallways, children’s rooms, even kitchens and bathrooms,” says Toto. It seems that latex paints have won over even the most demanding painters. “Although we still use oil-based paint for restoration work, latex paint is fine for interior walls and new paneling,” says Toto, “as long as the paint isn’t cheap.”

All of our pros have their personal favorites, but they agree that good paint doesn’t come cheap. “They’re spending $20 to $35 a gallon for a premium paint,” says Weeks. The pros also agreed that using two coats of paint will produce the best looking result. Don’t skimp on coverage; If you’re covering more than 400 square feet per gallon, you’re spreading it too thin. Also, have 1/4 to 1/2 gallon on hand for touch ups.

10. Supercharge Varnish

“Modern paint dries too quickly and is difficult to brush out,” says Dixon, who uses paint additives like Floetrol for latex paints and Penetrol for alkyds. “Adding a few ounces per gallon will slow down the drying time and make the paint more workable,” he says. Another problem is bridging. “Latex paints form a skin,” says Dixon. “Removing painted tape can tear the skin, resulting in a jagged line rather than a sharp one.” After all, taping takes time. “Learning to incise with a brush takes practice, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll leave most tapers in the dust,” says Dixon.

Although there are mold inhibitors, our pros prefer using bathroom and kitchen paints with mold inhibitors built in. “These paints prevent mold from forming, but they don’t kill mold that’s already there,” Dixon points out. Because leftover mold spores can live beneath the paint and eventually rise to the surface, you should also prep bathroom and kitchen surfaces. First wash the walls with a bleach solution (3/4 cup bleach per gallon of water), then seal with a stain-blocking primer such as Zinsser’s Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or Kilz’s Total One.

11. Reel Rules

The perfect roller would pick up a room full of color, leave the right amount of texture, wouldn’t spray or lint, and would be easy to clean. Follow these tips to pick the right reel until someone invents the ideal one. “The longer the pile, the more color the roller holds, but it also creates more texture,” says Dixon. “A 1/2-inch roll of shearling holds a lot of color without too much texture,” says Dixon. “Less expensive rollers can work,” says Span. “Just wash them in dish soap first to remove any stray fibers.”

Related How to Choose a Good Paint Roller

Most pros we spoke to prefer 9-inch reels to 18-inch models – they’re lighter, cheaper, and easier to use. Despite these shortcomings, Maceyunas swears by the wider roller. “The roller can cover an entire wall in a few up and down motions instead of several dozen W and M motions,” he says.

12. Use a bucket

Professionals prefer 5-gallon buckets with a roller grate over roller pans. They hold more paint than pans and, says Doherty, “it’s harder to tip a bucket.” You can also pack or mix two or three cans of paint with a bucket to avoid color mismatch. To use a bucket and grid, dip the roller a quarter into the paint and run it down the ramp to work the paint into the pile.

13. Work with a painter’s stick

A paint pole or pole can help you paint ceilings faster – no climbing up and down ladders required. And you don’t have to be directly under the area to be painted lest you catch every unpredictable splatter. A pole is also great for walls and floors. The pros were divided on whether the 4ft or 8ft rod was best for everyday use, but all agreed that a telescopic rod is the best choice.

14. Buy a better brush

A good brush is key to a professional looking finish. “A quality brush costs $15 to $25, but you’ll find that professionals aren’t as talented as you thought they were,” says Doherty. “The equipment has a lot to do with their success.”

Most of our pros prefer natural bristle brushes for oil paints, but recommend synthetics for all-round use. When choosing a brush, pay attention to the bristles. Synthetic brushes are made of nylon or polyester, or a combination of both. Poly bristles are stiffer, making them good for exterior or textured work, but for fine interior work, Doherty uses softer nylon brushes.

Also look out for tapered bristles, which can help you work to the edge, and serrated tips, which help spread the finish smoothly and evenly. Brushes are available in widths from 1″ to 4″. Most painters keep an arsenal ready to get the job done. “Use your common sense,” says Maceyunas. “A smaller brush gives you more control, but nobody wants to paint a door with a 1-inch wide brush,” Doherty recommends starting with a 2- or 2-1/2-inch wing brush. The angled brush makes it easier to cut in a line and gets more bristles to the job than a square-tipped brush.

15. Load a brush properly

Next you need to know how much paint to load the brush with. Mauro suggests dipping the brush into the paint can just enough to get two fingers of paint at the end of the brush. Too much paint and the ferrule will load, affecting the way the brush paints. Too little and the paint takes forever.

After loading, wipe off a little excess paint in the bucket.

We asked six professional painters to share these secrets. They shared how professionals paint rooms so you can work more efficiently and get better results. Some of what you will read may surprise you. For example, their secrets will not shorten the meal time.

16. Start low and work your way to the edge

When painting skirting boards, you don’t have to put the brush directly to the joint between the wall and the skirting board. Instead, start further down the baseboard until the paint flows. Then slowly work towards the seam and pull the paint down to the joint. This prevents puddling at the seam, resulting in much sharper lines. If the paint has pooled where you started, smooth it out with the brush.

17. Double checking work

Between coats you should back surface or sand down any imperfections before applying the next coat. Use a light to check the surface for drips, roller marks, or other imperfections.

18. Focus on Windows

The best time to tackle windows is early in the day when they are fresh,” says Doherty. “But it still takes me an hour to do a standard window.” For double sashes, start by raising the inner sash and lowering the outer sash until their positions are almost reversed. Paint the bottom half of the outer wing first, then the entire inner wing.

When the bottom wing is dry, return both to their normal position but leave them slightly open. Finish painting the outer wing. “Windows takes too long to record,” says Doherty. When painting, overlap the glass by 1/16 inch to seal the wood.

19. Get doors right

Pro2Pro Tip: Tapping means dragging the brush across the surface to level the finish.

Most painters have no problem painting doors in place, but do recommend placing the door on sawhorses and working horizontally. If you have a paneled door, start with the panels and work from the outside edges toward the center. “Pay attention to the corners — paint tends to puddle,” Dixon warns. While the paint is still wet, lightly ‘tap’ the panel with an almost dry brush.

Simply follow the grain of the wood when painting the rails (vertical) and railings (horizontal). For example, if the grain changes abruptly where the railing meets the stile, don’t interrupt your brushstroke—you’ll just leave a blob of paint behind. Apply the color in a full stroke across the joint, then feather the overlapping area by dragging the brush in the direction of the grain. “Make sure the door is dry before painting or re-hanging the opposite side,” says Maceyunas.

20. Skip daily cleaning

Most professionals don’t bother cleaning brushes and rollers if they’re going to use them for the same job the next day. “Latex paint dries slowly in cold temperatures,” says Maceyunas. For two-day jobs, he wraps the rollers and brushes in plastic bags and sticks them in the fridge. “Just let the roller come back to room temperature before using it again,” he says. Roller covers can hardly be cleaned thoroughly. Most professionals buy new covers for every job.

21. Expect touch-ups

Accidents happen. Have an inexpensive sponge brush handy to blend a patch with the rest of the wall or woodwork. To mimic the look of a roller, simply dab the paint.

resources

Mauro demonstrated cutting techniques using a 2½ inch Picasso angle cut brush manufactured by Proform Technologies and a 3 inch flat brush made by Wooster. These two brushes are available at most hardware and paint supply stores, among others. The paint Mauro used for the fairing was Ultra Pure White, which is manufactured by Behr.

Special thanks to the following painters

Answered by Staff Writer July 14, 2021

When moving a piece of furniture it is important to avoid scratches during transport. Usually movers wrap the furniture in moving blankets and pad the items before loading them onto the truck. This provides protection against surface damage. However, sometimes the moving team will ask you to have the items ready for loading, especially if you are only paying for loading and transportation services.

Some pieces of furniture will be wrapped in industrial cardboard, while the upholstery pieces will need to be wrapped in shrink wrap. This depends on the type and quality of the furniture you are transporting. Movers know the techniques and materials needed for the move. To get a clearer idea, it’s best to ask the mover before hiring them. Not only do they tell you what material is needed to pack the furniture, but they can pack it perfectly with their expertise.

If it’s just a large piece of furniture that needs to be packed, the furniture mover is less likely to charge you just to pack it. However, if you have a lot of heavy furniture that needs to be packed, the carrier may not agree to accommodate your requirement. Here’s a guide to how much packaging services will cost you to help with your budget planning.

How much does it cost to pack the furniture?

The best way to pack furniture inexpensively is to get the materials and do the work yourself. Although you have to buy the packing material, you don’t have to pay the movers anything. You can also avoid labor costs by asking your friends for help when you need it. Materials used to wrap furniture typically include:

Plastic wrap ($10-$25 per unit)

Bubble wrap ($10-$25 per unit)

Furniture Pad ($8 per unit)

Moving Blanket ($10 per rental unit)

Sofa and Mattress Cover ($20 to $200 depending on size and quality)

Corrugated sheets ($0.17 to $10 per sheet, depending on size)

If you are considering hiring professionals to pack your belongings, the mover will charge an hourly rate of $50 to $80 per mover. Actual price will depend on how big your house is and how many items need to be packed. They also charge for dismantling furniture, upholstery, and packaging before loading.

Read our guide to renting moving blankets and other supplies for the details.

How to pack furniture yourself

Packing the furniture properly before moving is a crucial part of the process. You need to know what material you need based on the type of furniture you are moving. For example, you need to be clear about the best material to wrap your leather couch with and how to protect your glass table for the move.

You may also need to disassemble and clean the furniture first to ensure no dirt or moisture is trapped in the packaged parts. If you’re not sure about the technique, read our guide to packing and protecting your furniture for a move.

Pack the furniture yourself or hire professionals

Whether you decide to wrap furniture yourself or hire professionals to do the job, there are some pros and cons to both options. The DIY approach gives you more freedom and you don’t have to spend a lot on packaging. However, it may not come out perfectly as you may struggle to pack heavy furniture yourself. In addition, it will take a lot of time and effort.

On the other hand, movers will charge you for packing and will follow their own procedure. Additionally, you have less control and may not be entirely comfortable letting strangers handle your prized furniture. But at the same time, it will be less tiring for you as you can focus on other aspects of the move. If you choose a reputable company with good reviews and high ratings, you can count on the professional services of moving companies.

Rather than settling on one of these options, it’s best to combine both approaches. This way you can reduce the risk of damage and save money along the way. Pack all moving boxes yourself and ask the movers to pack only the fragile and heavy items. So you only pay for what the mover does.

The Wheaton Blog

9 tips to move furniture without damaging it

Moving furniture can be tiring and even dangerous work. Transporting furniture incorrectly can also lead to damage to the furniture. If you’re planning a move in the next few months, these tips can help you move your furniture without harming yourself or your belongings.

1. Use furniture pads

Furniture pads are one of your greatest strengths when moving furniture. Unfortunately, these pads can also cause your furniture to be clumsy and difficult to maneuver. Furniture upholstery can also be expensive. Follow these tips to avoid these problems:

Tape your furniture pads to the furniture to prevent them from sliding off, but don’t apply the tape directly to the furniture itself.

Wrap the pads tightly in stretch wrap after they are attached so your hands can grab something.

Buy used blankets or sheets to cover your less fragile furniture if furniture pads are eating into your budget.

If wrapping a piece of furniture in a pad makes it too slippery to hold onto, transport it into the truck without the pad and then place the pad on top of the furniture once it’s in the truck to provide some protection.

2. Buy specialized hand trucks

Sometimes a standard hand truck just won’t cut it for large or bulky pieces of furniture. Get a special hand truck or dolly to move these pieces of furniture. For example, get a furniture cart to move your couch and an equipment cart to move items like your fridge.

3. Take furniture apart

Disassemble all furniture that can be disassembled, including bed frames, tables, and cabinets. As you disassemble furniture, video yourself so you have a set of instructions to follow when it’s time to assemble it.

Store all the nuts, bolts, and screws in a sandwich bag and attach the sandwich bag to the remaining parts for easier assembly. When you’re done, use stretch wrap to secure all the pieces together.

4. Buy glides, straps and shoulder rollers

A variety of tools can help you move furniture. Familiarize yourself with these articles so you can decide which ones are right for you.

gliders

Glides are small pieces of plastic with felt on the bottom. They can be placed under chair, couch and table legs to slide furniture across the floor. Glides are especially effective on hardwood floors.

Straps and shoulder dollies

Straps and shoulder rollers can help you lift large, bulky items like safes, refrigerators, and sofas. Straps allow you to work some of the strongest muscles in your body without putting too much strain on body parts like your back.

5. Have a plan

Make a plan before moving furniture. Is furniture being left behind in your old home? Label these items clearly so no one accidentally puts them in the truck. Do you know where your furniture will be placed in your new home? Draw a floor plan to show the furniture layout you want to see after you move.

Hand out copies of your furniture layout to anyone who will help you move so they know where to put your furniture when they arrive at your new home.

6. Make adjustments for the weather

Bad weather (particularly precipitation such as rain and snow) can damage your furniture. If you expect bad weather on your move day, have tarps ready to keep your furniture from getting wet outside.

Have spare towels on hand to wipe down furniture that gets wet. If possible, plan on moving your furniture through the garage and backing your truck up to the garage door to limit your furniture’s exposure to the elements.

7. Remove the doorstop from the doorway

Some items are just too big for the door. If you can’t quite get something to fit through the door, remove the doorstop from the doorway to give yourself a half inch or more, which may be all you need to get your furniture through.

8. Clear a path

Get everything out of the way before attempting to move a large, bulky piece of furniture. A clear path can help you avoid accidents and make the process of moving furniture more efficient.

9. Get help

The best thing you can do when moving a lot of furniture is to get help from people who are strong, sturdy, and physically able. If you plan to have friends help you, inform them of the types of furniture they will be transporting before they arrive. This way they can gauge how helpful they will be with your move.

One of the biggest obstacles to preparing for a move is keeping your furniture safe. Follow these important tips for your next move.

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Updated 3/25/17 from an article originally published on 5/18/2013. Whether you hire professionals or do it yourself, your furniture should always be treated with care during a move. When you arrive at your new home, you want your most expensive (and heaviest) items undamaged. Without the proper precautions, wooden furniture can be scratched, upholstery torn and glass broken. Learn how to protect your furniture at every stage of your move. Luckily, with a few supplies and a few simple tricks, you can move your fragile furniture around without worrying about potential damage. These furniture packing tips work whether you’re moving into a new home or storing these items.

1. Get packing supplies It’s a common moving myth that all you need to pack and protect your belongings is a few boxes, tape and moving blankets. While these items work, investing in a few extra supplies will ensure your move to a new home or move to a storage facility goes smoothly. Visit your local hardware store or shop on Amazon to purchase the following additional items for your furniture: ● Bubble wrap ● Sofa and mattress covers ● Plastic stretch wrap ● Sealable plastic bags ● Corrugated sheets

2. Prepare furniture for packing Before you pack anything, take the time to thoroughly clean and dust your furniture. Dust and other debris can scratch hard surfaces during the shipping process. Cleaning the furniture before you move also means you don’t drag unnecessary dirt into your new home. Take a few minutes to remove knobs, castors or handles from your furniture. Take out the drawers from dressers and desks and put other items in them. This gives you extra storage space while also making it easier to move heavy furniture.

3. Dismantle furniture in advance If possible, dismantle your furniture completely. Remove the legs from tables and sofas. Completely disassemble the bed frame. remove pillow. In short, if a piece of furniture can be safely disassembled, do it. This makes it easier to move the furniture and avoid damage caused by bumping into walls or door frames. It will also make packing your moving truck easier. Keep the following tips in mind: ● Always use an instruction manual, if available, to determine how to properly dismantle furniture. ● Use sealable plastic bags to store the screws and other small parts for each piece of furniture. Tape the bag securely to the item to prevent parts from getting lost. ● If a piece of furniture has many parts, use masking tape and a marker to note where each part goes. This will go a long way in protecting your furniture. ● Be careful with the drill when removing and installing. You don’t want to risk loosening the screws. Be sure to lower the torque setting and use the correct size drill bit for the job. ● Remember to dismantle the furniture the day before to save time on moving day.

4. Learn How to Pack Furniture Properly Bubble wrap and plastic wrap are two of the best tools at your disposal when it comes to safely moving your furniture. Use bubble wrap to protect delicate pieces of wood. Plastic sheeting or specially designed plastic sofa covers should be used to protect your upholstery items. In a pinch, old blankets or pack blankets can also be used. It’s also a good idea to use sheets of corrugated cardboard between pieces of wood. This provides extra protection and helps prevent dents or scratches while the furniture is on the truck. Bubble wrap is also ideal for protecting glass tabletops and mirrors. Consider taping a giant “X” onto the item with painter’s tape first so it’s less likely to shatter if it breaks. Wrap the glass or mirror completely, paying special attention to the corners. Finally, place the item between two layers of corrugated cardboard.

5. Have a placement plan How you place your items in the moving truck is just as important; Take your time to plan. This makes work easier for you and your movers. ● First, create a wall of crates across the back of the truck. Cartons should be the same size, sealed and tightly packed to prevent shifting. For this section, choose your heaviest boxes, which should not contain any fragile items. It brings additional stability. Read more: Everything you need to know about moving boxes ● Move in any square furniture like dressers or desks. Place them right against your boxing wall for extra padding. Be sure to use packing blankets or corrugated cardboard between pieces. ● Use the tops of the dressers for more boxes – just make sure the boxes are light and tightly packed to prevent shifting. ● Next, put in mattresses. Put a blanket on the floor to protect your mattress from dirt, especially if you haven’t wrapped it. ● Upholstery items require additional care. Use rope to attach the pieces to the hooks in the truck and carefully choose which items to pack around them. Even after you’ve wrapped your upholstery items, add a layer of packing blankets for extra security. ● Don’t forget to be careful when unloading the truck as well. Make sure the route to each room is clearly marked for movers. The less time you spend trying to find the right place to put your heavy furniture, the less likely it is to get damaged.

Moving doesn’t have to be stressful. Take the worry out of packing, securing and transporting your larger items properly. This will help ensure that your furniture arrives at your new home in good condition. If you decide to use self storage for your move, learn more about keeping your belongings safe in a storage unit.

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How to properly prepare lacquered furniture

I really feel like there is no paint without preparation. I share how to properly prepare painted furniture. Or at least it’s my path for every single piece I work on. Except maybe a few of my own. Occasionally I try to push the boundaries of my color and cut corners with my own personal projects just to see how well the finish holds up. So far, so good.

Many paint brands claim, even boast, “no prep required and no sanding required”. And they can be very good. But I feel why take that risk. By taking those few extra steps before you start, you ensure a longer lasting result from your hard work.

The first step to proper preparation

Again, I’m sure we all have different methods of how we do things, but this is how I prepare painted furniture pieces. It’s no fun, and it’s definitely not pretty, but it’s probably the most important step in painting furniture.

Disclosure: This Painted Furniture Prep post contains affiliate links for your convenience.

Not sure what you need to prepare your painted furniture? Click here for many tools and accessories for the preparation work: PREPARATION TOOLS & ACCESSORIES

1. Sand your furniture

I tend to use a different grit for different surfaces. If the surface is super smooth and shiny I use a rougher grit like 80 grit, but if the surface is already a bit textured or not that smooth I opt for a 150 grit. Most of the time I wrap the sandpaper around a sanding block for a better grip. Sometimes a piece just needs a little sanding, enough to create teeth or something for the paint to stick to. Layla was given a large girls bed, so I had her help her sand her new headboard before painting it pink.

If I plan to use a stain or if there is significant damage to a surface such as water rings, I use my electric sander and sand down to the bare wood.

2. Clean up the sanding dust Maybe that’s just my Type A personality, but I find myself sweeping up all the time. The dust drives me crazy. I will also use my shop vacuum to pick up large amounts of sanding dust as well as dust particles that are lodged in parts such as behind dresser drawers.

Whenever you can get a little helping hand with the prep work, I say be my guest! Luckily for me, Layla is still young enough to want to hang out with her mom and I love that she’s willing to help.

3. Clean your furniture I use the exact same cleaning method when preparing furniture for paint. I start with plain household vinegar.

Add a drop or two of Blue Dawn soap.

Equal parts clean water.

A shaggy sponge. The entire piece is then cleaned with this simple solution.

Some pieces don’t necessarily have elaborate detail, but may have crevices where dirt and dust have crept in. The toothbrush is also ideal for this. Some pieces have artistic details, so I pull out the old toothbrush. Be careful not to use your spouse’s toothbrush 😉 When this step is complete, the water is often just plain stale! This is important because if you skip the prep work you are actually painting over dirt and the paint will adhere to wood much better than dirt.

4. Rinse your piece of furniture Once I feel the piece has been properly sanded and cleaned, I take a clean paper towel, or I suppose a clean rag or an old t-shirt would work just as well, and I wipe it down away. The entire piece is wiped down with a clean cloth to remove any remaining dust and/or cleaning residue. Only then is a piece fully prepared and ready for painting.

live video

Here’s a pre-recorded video made on Facebook Live where I cleaned and prepped a small table:

Optional – Deciding When to Use Primer on Your Painted Furniture Using primer is hit or miss for me. I’m not for or against, but rather let any painted furniture project decide whether to use a primer or not. When painting over a dark wood like mahogany, I often use a primer. Click here to see tutorials where the furniture was primed before painting. PRIMER FIRST. 5. Choosing paint for your painted furniture project I would hate if you go through the steps to prepare painted furniture and then choose a paint that isn’t the best quality. Educate yourself about the paint you’re using, and don’t just go for the cheapest one. I’ve had people tell me they were using certain paint and it started peeling off. Save yourself the hassle and use paints made for furniture. There are so many high quality colors to choose from. Great color options are available HERE online. It is made in the USA and made for furniture.

Everything prepared and ready for painting? Check out how to paint furniture – a beginner’s guide.

Finally

Let’s face it, at the end of the day it’s still paint, not steel, and no matter how you prepare or what products you use, you still need to be kind to your furniture. If you leave a water glass on a painted or factory painted table I’m pretty sure you have an equal chance of getting a water ring. Or if you drip oil onto your furniture from one of those scented plug-in things, you’re sure to damage the finish (unless it’s actually steel, I’d assume). Dancing burlesque in heels on your dresser is likely to leave a mark. I have several pieces of painted furniture in my home, some for a few months and others for a few years, and I can honestly say the finish is still as good as the day it was painted. Want to see what painted furniture is in my home? Check out my entire living room makeover on how to clean, prep and paint hardware link parties.

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I’ve tried using different types of colors and techniques, and while I’ve had many successes, I’ve also had my fair share of failures. Many of these lessons were learned by not preparing the furniture properly. I learned these tricks over time and they now help me achieve long lasting finishes on everything I paint!

cleaning

Paint just won’t stick to dirt, grease, dust or anything else that lurks on vintage and antique furniture. I have found that the best way to clean parts is to use denatured alcohol mixed with water (50/50 ratio). A Scotch Bright Pad is great for removing all that dirt. Denatured alcohol is a great cleaning agent if you plan to use water-based paint (chalk paint, milk paint, latex paint, and acrylic paint are all water-based). When using an oil based paint (often spray paint is oil based) I use mineral spirits (but don’t mix it with water!) to clean the piece.

Fill holes, cracks, chips in the veneer, etc.

It’s very rare that I don’t have to do this with a piece of furniture. Something is usually wrong. Usually it’s scratches, dents, unwanted holes in the hardware, and most commonly, peeling veneer.

To hold veneer in place I use wood glue and staples to glue the ridges back in place. If there’s a piece missing, I usually just fill it in with wood spatula. If the veneer is in a terrible shape, I remove it entirely (I’ll save this post for later).

What you need to know now is that Elmer’s Wood Filler is great. I use it to fix all these problems.

On this dresser I used it to fill in some gouges that the old hardware had created. After filling in the problem areas (sometimes it takes 2-3 applications), sand down to a smooth finish. You can stain or paint over this stuff (although I have a feeling it won’t quite match the wood when stained, so be careful).

Ribbons

This step is intended to scrape the surface, which will help the paint stick to it. I know, I know you don’t have to sand when using chalk paint, but I lightly sand each piece I paint. I find that it gives me control over the color. I can still easily torment later, but when I sand I know that the areas I’ve applied paint to will remain varnished. (What’s the whole purpose of this painting thing, right?)

The only time I don’t sand a piece is when I’m trying to create a very chipped look with milk paint. I’ve found that when I sand down a piece and use milk paint (even without adhesion promoter) it often doesn’t chip at all. Which again just proves my theory that sanding a piece really helps the colored pencil!

I usually use 150 grit sandpaper to prep a piece, just going lightly over all flat surfaces with a sanding sponge. Since sanding sponges are expensive (unless you can find two at the resale store today for $0.50 each. YES!), I just wrap a piece of sandpaper around an old block and it works just as well. A sanding block allows you to apply even pressure as you sand, which is just a lot harder if you’re just using your hands.

primer

This step is sometimes optional, sometimes it is absolutely necessary.

Prime First: If a piece is mahogany, it must be primed or severe bleed through will occur. I’ve also found that red stains tend to bleed through the paint – use a primer. Any dark stains or water stains must be primed. If not, those pesky spots will eventually bleed through. Finally, I always prime when using a latex paint (which isn’t often) because it really doesn’t adhere very well to previously painted wood. Oh yeah, and if it stinks, use a primer!

Here are my two favorite primers for most pieces:

Clear Shellac – in spray or quart I seriously need to write a full review on this stuff because it’s amazing, but now if you want to worry about showing the natural wood underneath, use this.

or Quart Cover All Stain – as a spray or quart This primer is white which works if you want your top coat to be white as well or if you don’t want distressed (or I suppose if you want distressed to show white underneath and wood) . FYI – this primer is oil based, but it works well as a primer under water based paints (most don’t). Just make sure you clean your brush with paint thinner or mineral spirits.

or Quart These two primers have a super power to cover up all those pesky stains and odors that regular primers just can’t hide.

Skip this primer: Furniture that has an intact top coat and is generally in good condition usually doesn’t need a primer if you’re using milk paint, chalk paint, acrylic paint, or oil-based spray paint.

Those are all basics! It’s amazing how much better the finish of my pieces gets when I take the time to prepare it properly.

Are you ready to paint a piece of furniture? Check out this post where I compare the best types of paint for furniture:

Check out all the furniture projects I’ve completed!

The strangest thing happens when you get new carpet. You want your whole house to look like new again and you find all sorts of long-deferred projects to work on. Since we had to move the heavy furniture anyway, my mom and I had the brilliant idea of ​​finally painting the navy blue bunk beds white. If you’ve ever tried painting furniture, you know it takes some know-how. Since this isn’t my first time painting furniture, I thought I’d share some tips on painting furniture like a pro. (And I might even throw in a few glitches for your reading pleasure!)

Years ago we got some really cool bunk beds for a great price by buying the floor standing model in the showroom. Unfortunately we had to settle for a deep navy blue for our little girls room. I figured we’d get rid of them as the girls got older, so I never bothered to paint them. Since we moved the bottom bed into a separate bedroom and turned the desk area into a fortress, these bunk beds are staying put for a very long time!

Since we were already making a mess by tearing up the house for rugs, it seemed like a good time to start a new project. (I know. I’m totally crazy sometimes.) I can’t believe I waited this long to remodel these beds. (Lower bed not shown.) Now both bedrooms are bright and cheerful and I (and the kids) couldn’t be happier.

So let’s get to the tips!

How to paint furniture like a pro

RELATED: How to paint unfinished furniture

These tips are specific to painting a light color over a dark color. Painting over a light color doesn’t require quite as many layers of paint!

Use the right tools

To avoid visible brush marks in your paint job, you need to use the right tools. I started with a Purdy brush (my favorite) but this furniture is huge and the brush just took way too long. A good quality foam roller worked great for this project. I was able to paint quickly with no visible brush strokes. I used a 4 inch foam roller (extra smooth finishes) and cut into the corners and edges with a foam brush.

Know what not to paint

When painting dressers or furniture with drawers, you should only paint the drawer fronts. Do not paint the inside of the drawers, the outside of the drawers, or the back of the drawer front.

Sand lightly before you start

Unless you’re using chalk paint, you should sand your furniture lightly to roughen it up so the new paint will stick. If your piece is small you might be able to get away with hand sanding, but I highly recommend an electric random orbital sander. If you can’t afford to buy one, by all means rent one! You won’t believe how much time it saves. I got this from SKIL. You have to sand enough to take the glossy shine off the furniture. When you paint a piece like mine you have to hand sand to get into all the little corners.

Be sure to remove dust and sand from the project before you start painting. (Use a damp cloth or cleaning rag.) Have you ever used cleaning rags? This was my first time using them and they are amazing! They’re like sticky cheesecloth, so they soak up all the sand. cool Mine started out yellow and quickly turned blue from all the blue paint dust they were removing.

use primers

To cover the navy blue with white I had to use 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of latex paint. Painting over a dark color is serious business! Don’t skip the primer! My favorite primer is Kilz, but I’ve also used Zinsser’s BIN Primer to paint over laminate. It worked great.

Dilute your color

To get smooth layers with no visible brush strokes, all you have to do is water down your paint and foundation a little. (Use up to 1 cup of water to 1 gallon of paint, or up to 1 T of water to 1 cup of paint.) A little water goes a long way in keeping your paint job looking smooth and professional.

Focus on thin smooth layers rather than thick layers.

Sand lightly between coats

This step really makes a big difference. I skipped it in my locker project and the finished product isn’t smooth and professional. For this project, I sanded after each primer and color, and the result is gorgeous! My favorite products for this step are sponge sanders and tack cloths.

Finish with polyacrylic

This is my first time using Polycrylic and I am hooked. If the surface of your furniture is subject to heavy wear, be sure to seal it! Polyacrylic dries clear and does not form bubbles (when used correctly). It dries quickly so you don’t have to wait long between coats. I found it really easy to work with. DO NOT use a reel with this product. This will cause blisters. Use a good quality brush and work quickly because I wasn’t kidding when I said it dries quickly! You will need to allow 24 hours to dry before using the furniture and you will need to sand lightly between coats. (More loops. Yippee!)

Photo credit – Amazon.com

So those are the basic tips you need, but let me add a few that I’ve learned through experience. Some tips I learned by getting it right the first time and other tips I learned by making mistakes. Every project has its glitches, right?

What I learned from the blooper role

Place furniture on blocks

If you want to paint the furniture from top to bottom, put them on blocks. I raised mine on some pieces of scrap wood and it worked great.

Lighting is key

If possible, paint in an area that is well lit. I love painting in the garage during the day because the lighting is great and I have good ventilation. Because these pieces were so heavy, I painted the two dressers in the bedroom. Without thinking, I painted a coat of paint without opening the blinds. When I realized my mistake and opened the blinds, my mistakes were obvious. I missed drips and left stains unpainted. Lesson learned! If you don’t have good lighting, plug in a lamp and lug it around.

Be careful and watch out for drops!

Speaking of drops, watch out for them. Drops happen! Before venturing into a new area, quickly check for drips, paying close attention to the edges. After I’ve finished a section, I quickly run my finger along the edge it’s touching to catch any paint that’s spilled over the edges. (You should see my painting clothes. They’re a mess!) You can get rid of a lot of drips by sanding after drying, but some spots are really hard to fix, so take care. If your piece has holes (like the headboard and footboard on these beds), the paint will likely drip through the holes and pool around the other side of the hole.

Soaking hardware can help remove paint

Painting around hardware is extremely difficult. If you get paint on removable metal parts, try soaking them in water to loosen the paint. Then you can rinse it off straight away. If you cannot remove the hardware, loosen the hardware a little and then use the rough part of a kitchen sponge to remove the paint. (Wait until you have finished all coats of paint, but be sure to remove the paint before applying the clear coat.)

This used to be a bunk bed. I forgot the hardware was removed. When I sat down to apply the next coat of paint, the whole thing fell apart! Oops! It was a lot easier to paint the bed in pieces anyway. Surprise!

Pay attention to which parts of the furniture are showing

That was my most heartbreaking mistake. Since this project was huge and I didn’t have much time, I painted for two weeks. That’s two weeks my girls share a room so I can paint in a bedroom. Parked cars on the street for two weeks so I could paint in the garage. Two weeks of sore muscles from using muscles I’m not used to.

I didn’t paint the top of the desk and dresser (the part the bed rests on) or the inside edges of the slots for the drawers. Here’s what happened as I excitedly put everything back together:

It never occurred to me that the dark blue would show through the cracks between the drawers. Ouch #1.

When we started placing the bed frame on top of the dressers, we found that an inch to an inch and a half of the top of the dresser shows all the way around the edge of the bed. Ouch #2.

I nearly cried. I was depressed for the rest of the day thinking about applying five coats of color and two coats of clear to the areas I’d missed. The next day I found a solution. I took ⅓ c paint and turned it into chalk paint. Two coats of chalk paint, two coats of clear coat and you’re done. In one day. Hooray! Which brings me to my next tip.

research in advance

There are many methods of painting furniture. Take the time to do a little research to find out which method works best for your project. I’ve painted furniture before, so I haven’t dabbled in new methods. I probably could have saved a bit of time looking at furniture for chalk painting. It’s a great way to turn dark furniture into light furniture. It can be difficult though, so I’m still happy with my method.

Chalk painting requires different tools and methods to look good, so don’t go into it blindly! The few spots I did chalk on were in parts of the furniture that can’t really be seen, so I was willing to risk inexperience and the wrong brushes. While painting, I realized why there are “Epic Chalk Paint Fail” images all over the internet. Mine turned out fine, but if I had worked on larger areas I might have run into problems!

There are many great bloggers out there sharing great painting tips. I personally like All Things Thrifty. Since she’s constantly rearranging furniture, I know I can trust her tips.

If you’re wondering about my experience and advice, I’ve learned by asking professional furniture painters, researching the internet and learning from experience. Here are some of my painted furniture projects that made it onto the blog (click on the image to go to the post):

Sorry – the lighting on these dresser pics is awful!

You’ve selected your colors, bought paint and accessories and you’re good to go. There’s just one small problem: what do you do with your furniture? You could do your best to paint it around, but there are better ways to paint a furnished room in your home.

Paint first

The best scenario is an empty room at first. If you haven’t moved into the room yet, take advantage of the empty space and paint now. It’s a lot easier to paint a room when you don’t have to worry about moving and covering your furniture and other items. However, you may still want to use some drop cloths to protect the floor.

Move the furniture

If you already live in the house or apartment, it might be a good idea to remove some or all of the furniture from the room that you want to paint. If you can temporarily move the furniture to another room in your house, give yourself a better blank canvas. Just be careful when putting everything back in place so you don’t scratch your freshly painted walls!

Use drop wipes

Plastic sheets and drapes are available in different sizes. If you can’t move the furniture to another room, move it away from the walls you want to paint. Gather everything in the center of the room and cover everything with good quality plastic wrap or a thick cloth. This will help protect your furniture from unwanted drips and splashes.

As you paint the ceiling, you may have to gradually move the furniture back and forth. Be sure to cover everything completely after moving it, and watch out for wet paint that got on your drapes.

With a little preparation, you can save time and protect your furniture. Of course, the professionals at Major Painting are always at your side with help and advice. Contact us today for more information.

While many things can easily be tossed in a box when moving to a new location, the dresser cabinet is one that you need to take special care of. The porcelain inside is not only very delicate, but the cabinet itself requires special preparation to ensure safe transport. Here are a few tips for moving the closet and its contents into your new home.

Fine China

The first task is to pack all the items in the cupboard. Follow the steps below to get this done correctly.

make photos

It’s a good idea to take a few photos of the china cabinet before you start taking it apart. The photos can tell you where things went in the closet and how they fit together.

Get a special box

You will find special moving boxes for dishes. These boxes give the items inside extra padding that protects them from accidental damage in transit. Spend some extra money to buy these boxes for your fine china. You can even use the individual slots in a glassware box to pack small collectibles that would otherwise be difficult to pack securely.

Use normal wrapping paper

A common mistake when packing fine china is to use printed newsprint as the packing material. The problem with this material is that the ink can detach from the newspaper and transfer to your fine china. You will have trouble removing the black powder left by the ink, which can potentially ruin the china.

You will need enough wrapping paper to wrap each piece individually. This will help you layer individual pieces so that they don’t come into contact with each other.

The China Cabinet

Preparing a china cabinet is very different than preparing other pieces of furniture in your home. Go through these steps.

Remove all of the glass

Most china cabinets have lots of glass so you can see the beautiful contents inside. Hopefully most of this glass can be removed to ensure it doesn’t break during the move. You should carefully remove glass shelves and glass panels in the doors and wrap them in bubble wrap for extra cushioning. Make sure you cover the corners of the glass that are most likely to get bumped when you bring them into your new home.

If you can’t remove a piece of glass because it’s built into a cabinet door, protect it with some cardboard. Use a moving box to cut a piece of cardboard slightly larger than the piece of glass you want to protect, then tape it to the door with painter’s tape. This tape helps ensure that the surface of the wood is not damaged when you remove the tape and cushions the box from impact.

Separate the cabinet

Most cupboards have two parts that you can separate: the bottom part of the cupboard and the base unit on top. Separating these parts will make the cabinet lighter and easier to move.

Tape doors and drawers shut

Take some time to secure the china cabinet doors and drawers so they don’t accidentally open during the move. Use small strips of painter’s tape to keep everything closed.

These tips will go a long way in ensuring your cupboard and all of its contents reach your new home safely. When you need professional help, Island Movers can handle your delicate items with expertise, giving you peace of mind.