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Table of Contents
What equipment do you need to make paper?
- A mould and deckle (or, if you want to make your own, 2 old picture frames or 2 inexpensive stretched canvases, plus a piece of fiberglass or aluminum window screen)
- A blender.
- Recycled paper (office paper, tissue paper, etc.)
- Water.
- A plastic vat (larger than your mould and deckle)
Which paper is suitable for handmade?
Alternatively, fresh cotton, abaca or hemp pulp produces an artist-quality handmade paper. Many handmade papers are acid-free and pH neutral, depending on the raw materials used in a given handmade paper.
How to Make Your Own Paper
In today’s world of email, voicemail, and cell phones, people everywhere value paper that stands out from the crowd. If you take the time to send a letter or an invitation, it should be something special. Handmade planting paper is something very special with its unmistakable, tactile surface – after all, every sheet of planting paper was made by hand.
Handmade paper transforms scraps of cotton fabrics, blue jeans and office paper, adding wildflower seeds to transform them into exquisite paper sheets.
Handmade plantable paper has a unique look and texture that sets it apart from machine-made paper. The beauty of handmade paper is that no two sheets are the same. In contrast to the cut edges of machine paper, each piece of handmade paper is made to measure and therefore has a feather-light “deckle edge” on all four sides. Handmade paper also has a rich texture, making it perfect for drawing, writing, binding in books, rubber stamping, and more.
Deckle edge made from handmade paper
The term deckle edge refers to the distinctive, feather-like edge of handmade paper. It is created during the manufacture of the handmade paper and enhances the overall appearance of the handmade paper. Other paper makers make their handmade paper in large sheets and then cut them to card and invitation size. They try to achieve a similar effect by tearing or cutting the paper; However, true deckle edge can only be achieved if the handmade paper is made to the specific card size, as at Botanical PaperWorks, and not cut from a larger piece of handmade paper.
The process of making handmade paper
The preparation for making handmade paper first begins with a base pulp, often 100% recycled paper, cotton fibers or abaca fibers for beautiful, acid-free sheets of handmade paper. Pigments and inclusions such as seeds and petals are added to the pulp. The uniqueness of the handmade paper is determined by the materials added to the raw material.
The pulp used to make handmade paper is then placed in a papermaking vat. The papermaker stands in front of the vat and, using a mold and vat specially designed for making handmade paper, draws the grounds through the pulp. After the sheet has drained, the handmade paper is “bedded” on a felt base, covered with further layers of handmade paper and felt and then pressed in a manual paper press.
Finally, the handmade paper is removed from the press and either air dried or dried in a special drying system designed exclusively for handmade paper.
Unique properties of handmade paper
Handmade paper has several unique properties:
Handmade paper is often made from treeless fibers such as cotton, abaca, or hemp. Handmade paper is also made from recycled fibers found in office paper and newsprint.
The quality of handmade paper is determined by the base pulp, so if the handmade paper is made from inferior newsprint, the resulting quality of the handmade paper will be poor. Alternatively, fresh cotton, abaca or hemp pulp can be used to make artist-quality handmade paper.
Many handmade papers are acid free and pH neutral depending on the raw materials used in a particular handmade paper. Contact the individual manufacturer of the handmade paper.
If you need more information about handmade paper, please contact us at Botanical PaperWorks. We’re here to help.
Papermaking Kit Tutorial – Oblation Papers and Press
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Amazon.co.uk : paper making kit
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How to Make Your Own Paper
creativity
A beginner’s guide to making your own paper
Helen Hibert
October 23, 2018 9:30 p.m
Expand the papermaking workshop in Sheila Nakitende’s studio. Photo by Women’s Studio Workshop, via Flickr.
Making paper is magic; The medium holds limitless potential. I first learned this over 25 years ago at a professional handcraft papermaking studio in New York where I worked for six years. From then on I became self-employed and have been involved with the medium ever since. Whether you’re trying out papermaking as a hobby or diving deep into it like me, you’ll be amazed by the transformation that takes place during this creative process. In simple papermaking, a screen stretched over a frame — known as a “form and deckle” — is dipped into a vat of pulp (made from recycled paper or plant matter). Then lift the strainer out of the vat and shake it so that the fibers intertwine as the water drains through the strainer. The freshly made sheet of paper is then transferred to a base – usually a piece of felt – and then pressed and dried. There are many ways to make paper, including Eastern and Western dipping or pouring techniques. Here I describe the western dipping method that you can use to create one-of-a-kind handmade sheets from the scrap paper you have at home.
What you’ll need: A mold and laid paper (or if you want to make your own, 2 old picture frames or 2 inexpensive stretched canvases, plus a piece of fiberglass or aluminum window screen)
A blender
Recycled paper (office paper, tissue paper, etc.)
water
A plastic vat (bigger than your mold and lidle)
A staple gun (if you already have one)
Adhesive tape or strapping tape
Several sheets of felt, newspaper, fabric, or towels
A sponge
A clothesline
Optional: confetti, flower petals, string or bits of thread (to add color and texture to your paper)
The shape and coverle
Expand molds and make handmade paper. Illustration by Alison Kolesar from Papermaking with Garden Plants and Common Weeds by Helen Hiebert.
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You need some sort of screen to capture the paper fibers and hold the sheet’s shape – this is called the shape. You can make a simple mold out of an old picture frame, or the stretcher of a new, inexpensive canvas from a large department store. Remove the existing canvas, if any, then use a staple gun to attach a piece of window screen — fiberglass or aluminum — cut slightly smaller than the frame. Apply tape or strapping to cover the staples and the edges of the screen. If you don’t have a staple gun and are making a small screen, you can simply tape the screen to the frame.
You will need a second frame that is the same size as the mold that you can use as the laid paper. (Learn more about making your own mold and box here.) If you want to buy a mold and box instead, you can buy a kit or papermaking kit online from specialty retailers like Arnold Grummer’s and Carriage House Paper.
produce pulp
Expand pulp with a blender. Illustration by Alison Kolesar from Papermaking with Garden Plants and Common Weeds by Helen Hiebert.
The first step in creating a sheet of paper is to make pulp, which you can do using a blender and recycled paper. If you’re really into papermaking, there are many ways to improve the process to increase your production and make larger sheets, but I recommend starting small. You can use a standard kitchen blender to whip pulp (but I don’t recommend using the same blender for food and paper making). Large commercial blenders are more efficient because they can blend more pulp at once. (The king of pulp processing is the Hollander beater, developed in Holland in the 1680s and still used in professional paper studios today.) Fill your blender ¾ full with water and add a handful of recycled paper (the corresponds to a standard sheet of office paper). Use white paper if you want white paper; printed/recycled office paper gives a light gray and/or you can mix in colored paper. Experiment with different types of paper (text weight, 100% cotton, cardstock) to vary the resulting colors and textures.
Place the lid on the blender and turn it on. I usually start at a slow speed – like “mixing” – and then switch to a faster speed when I hear the mixer running smoothly (after about five seconds). If the motor sounds strained, turn it off and check that the pulp isn’t wrapping itself around the blades or that there isn’t too much pulp in the blender.
Put the freshly beaten pulp straight into the vat if you’re about to make paper; or you can collect it in a bucket and keep it for a few days (it will start to smell if you leave it for too long). Continue to mix the pulp handful.
The ratio of pulp to water will vary depending on how thick you want your leaves to be. Start with a few blenders full of pulp in a vat and see if you’re happy with the thickness. Then add pulp or water as needed. As you craft leaves, you’ll need to replenish your pulp.
At this point, you can add other small decorative elements to the pulp, such as flower petals, confetti, or pieces of twine or thread. Note that natural elements (like flower petals) may bleed or turn brown – you’ll have to try it to see what happens!
make paper
Expand the mold and embed it in the vat with the pulp. Illustration by Alison Kolesar from Papermaking with Garden Plants and Common Weeds by Helen Hiebert.
Your vat (a plastic tub) needs to be larger than your mold and lidle. For a mold that makes 8.5″ x 11″ slabs, I recommend a small cement mixing tub; For smaller leaves you can use a rinsing tub. In the vat, stir the pulp by hand to obtain a homogeneous, evenly mixed solution.
Wet the mold well and brush with water. Then place the deckle on top of the screen side of the mold, making sure all the edges and corners line up.
Hold these two pieces together as you dip the mold and place it in the vat at a 45 degree angle to the bottom of the vat, scooping under the surface of the pulp and pulling toward you.
Bring the mold and vat parallel to the bottom of the vat, lift them out of the mixture, and shake them—left to right and back to front—to bind the fibers together. Shake it gently (like panning for gold) until you see the fibers settle on the screen.
Be careful not to shake it for too long; When you see that the fibers have settled on the screen, you can remove the deckle. Set the handmade paper aside, gently tilt the mold, making sure the sheet doesn’t start to slide on the surface.
Lie
View 2 images slideshow image set
The next step is transferring the wet foil from the mold to another surface, traditionally a piece of felt. There are many felt substitutes, including newspaper, towels, cloth, or pellon (fleece). The couching material should be slightly larger than your paper sheets, and you will need four or five couching sheets. Laying your couching supplies on a tray — like a cafeteria tray or baking sheet — helps collect excess water and avoid a big mess. To couch, place an edge of the shape on an edge of the couching material with the wet sheet facing the couching material.
Gently place the entire wet sheet onto the couching surface, applying even pressure to the back of the forming edges and the screen to ensure the sheet transfers to the couching surface.
Lift one edge of the mold, look underneath to see that the panel has come loose, then remove the mold. To continue making sheets, place another couching material directly on top of the sheet you just made. Make another sheet and then place it on the surface, aligning it with the sheet below. I recommend only making a few leaves at a time before pressing.
Press Once you’ve made a few sheets of paper, you’ll need to press them to remove some of the water. The simplest device for this is a damp sponge. Pick up a sheet of paper (attached to its lying surface) and place it on a piece of dry felt or newspaper (something that will absorb some of the water).
Next, place a dry sheet of cloth or fleece over the sheet to protect the surface of the wet paper and gently but firmly wipe any water from the sheet.
Wring the sponge repeatedly while continuing to press across the entire sheet.
dry
Expand drying. Illustration by Alison Kolesar from Papermaking with Garden Plants and Common Weeds by Helen Hiebert.
There are many drying methods, but the simplest is to dry the sheet on the couching material. Make sure the sheet is pressed and firmly attached to the material and hang it on a clothesline.
When dry (this can take up to 24 hours depending on humidity), peel the sheet away from the couching material and weigh it down if you want to smooth it out.
If you want a really smooth and flat sheet, you can try transferring the wet sheet from the couching material to a smooth surface like a countertop or window.
You can even dry sheets on textured surfaces like wood or walls to give your sheet a unique finish. This only scratches the surface of papermaking! My books, including Papermaking with Garden Plants and Common Weeds and The Papermaker’s Companion, go into detail about each step of the process and other methods. Enjoy!
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