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Adjust Engine Idle – Ninja 250
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High idle issue – ninjette.org
High le issue 1986 – 2007 Ninja 250R Tech Talk. … It has a problem where it les high (around 3000rpm) sometimes, and I’m wondering …
Source: www.ninjette.org
Date Published: 9/16/2021
View: 6186
IDLE too high! 5000rpm! on 03 ninja 250
hii i have a 2003 ninja 250 and after a month of not ring it … once the bike was warm the le speed is at 5rpm. rather high. it was …
Source: www.kawasakimotorcycle.org
Date Published: 5/16/2022
View: 2676
High high high idle revs. HELP!! – Kawasaki Ninja Forum
Unfortunately this has to be my first post, but here it goes: I bought a new 2012 Ninja 250 last month and haven’t even put 500 miles on it …
Source: www.newninja.com
Date Published: 10/5/2022
View: 9413
High Idle/ running slightly hot – Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
Soooo I picked up a 2002 Ninja 250 yesterday and got a great deal, some things wrong but nothing crazy (should have seen the one before that …
Source: www.kawiforums.com
Date Published: 3/4/2021
View: 1585
Ninja 250 High Idle/Dies ? : r/motorcycles – Reddit
Good morning. I have a ninja 250 and when I got it it was on high le. I’ve been adjusting the knob, but it doesn’t lower the rpms.
Source: www.reddit.com
Date Published: 3/15/2021
View: 6782
What is the engine idle speed? How do I adjust it?
Several of our experienced rers say that the 1300 rpm gueline is used by Kawasaki to help pass EPA regulations and isn’t a hard and fast number. Some of …
Source: faq.ninja250.org
Date Published: 3/1/2022
View: 8641
High idle issue
Ghosts in your machine
Name: Scott Location: Summer Shade, Kentucky. Joined Date: Oct 2014
Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R “SERENITY”, 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R “Phoenix”, 84 Honda GL1200A “SIREN”
Posts: Many. Blog Entries: 25 MOTM – June ’17, May ’16, March ’15
Quote: Your initial setting should be 3 full turns from the bottom, remember to tighten them only slightly, don’t go all conan on them.
Then warm up, slowly screw in 1 side pilot screw until the RPM drops, then back out until the RPM is reached (and no further) *Turn the throttle…see how it responds…adjust to taste.
Repeat on the other side… test drive. You’re looking for the best throttle response and transition from just cracked to 1/4 throttle or so.*
This is a quick 10 cent tutorial on how to set pilot screws. **
Quote: You can sync with the carbs in your hand. Back off the idle adjustment to close that carburetor, then adjust the second carburetor with the timing screw. You can then turn the idle adjustment up between the throttle body and the throttle bore with a thin feeler gauge (maybe 0.002″), adjust to just fit, and then check the second and adjust to fit. If you have a good feel for that, it’ll run perfect after installation.
It would do people well to take a minute to review and understand what a sync tool does and how it works. And take another minute to look at the carburetor linkage and the available sync adjustments to fix any anomalies that may arise. It may help solve some of the puzzle and stop unnecessary carb synchronization errors.
That means once the carbs were right, the butterflies were in sync and it performed well, but then it changed. Undecided And the problem somehow arose in the butterfly direct shafts, or the synchro screw was spinning, or wore the pad it rests on, or the carburetor pairing/bridging brackets were twisted in relation to each other and to the point that the butterflys were out of sync, so performance suffered noticeably. And correction is achieved by changing the butterfly position, the only thing the sync adjustment does. Hmmm. For real? draw
Meanwhile, the tool measures the vacuum on each individual runner. That’s all it does, how it works. And the vacuum is affected by a huge list of things, butterfly position being just one of them and the only one addressed with this tool while turning those sync screws. The rest of this list includes valve timing, fuel injection, float level, compression differences between cylinders caused by wear, as well as factory CC differences in the head, intake port, and flow due to port variations, etc. Variations in cam, wear, or factory tolerance. Then there are the potentially large, pilot jets and pilot auger mix settings. All of these affect the vacuum and are read by the sync tool, accurately identifying the difference that exists, and with the only adjustment used to “correct” the problem, moving the butterfly relationship from one to the next.
It is this clear understanding that has led me to the belief and longstanding practice of not touching the timing screws on a set of carburetors that were once set up and never removed from the rack. Nozzle cleaning and float needle replacement do not require disassembly either. And further, when I disassembled a set of carbs, I would simply adjust the butterflies on the bench with a feeler gauge as I assembled them, and then never touch them again, never think about them again.
This method, done correctly, satisfies THAT part of the complete equation, balanced flow to each cylinder in a multi-cylinder/carburetor application, perfectly adequately due to the butterfly position. And in fact, it’s worked for me every time I’ve done it on every bike (as well as single Runner/Butterfly V-8 intakes, all eight) I’ve ever owned or made for others have repaired . And the times I corrected for others were usually after an attempt by others to sync the carbs chasing a problem or sometimes not even chasing a problem but ones they created using a sync tool to work out a problem chasing this list has never been a butterfly position change problem. These shortcuts are so direct and simple that they don’t know how to screw themselves up. Not enough to care.
I’m sure this will cause a lot of controversy, so I won’t argue about it, just offering it for those who understand the full picture I’ve sketched and could put it to good use. I’ve done this on every engine I’ve ever worked on, including blue printed race engines as well as regular old high mileage street junk. I’ve had at least 100,000+ mile four, four cylinder bikes that ran pretty well all the time and never had a carburetor synch done. When they finally got a full disassembly, I put them up on the bench like this. Over the years I’ve fixed at least half a dozen screwed up ones, probably more, on the bench after fixing the original problem, which was dirty pilot jets.
I only posted this because it seems to pop up quite a bit, especially with bad sync issues. One I would suggest was never a sync issue to begin with. A large or sudden change in performance is NEVER a sync issue. NEVER. Remember it. Cool If there is a problem and you connect the gauges? YES, imbalance is definitely indicated. But because this hole has a problem that is different from the rest of the list. A bad plug, a clogged pilot jet, a screwed up float, a bad valve or adjustment, etc. Any of them will affect the vacuum in the inlet, but NOT from a sudden movement of a butterfly position or a timing adjustment. Quote: You need to check that the petcock is petcocking, um, I mean it’s working properly.
PETCOCK TEST
Install a fuel hose from the petcock fuel outlet into a drain pan. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the engine side. Leave it connected to the petcock.
Now…petcock turned on….fuel should NOT be flowing. Suck on the vacuum hose (connected ONLY to the petcock)…fuel should now be flowing.
Make sure there are no holes or cracks in the vacuum line!
Post your findings. ducatiman
Hope this helps, feel free to ask any questions. Okay, here are some of my personal tips for you. If you need either carb services or parts pm @Hope that helps, feel free to ask any questions.
violence and ignorance
ZX-2R BLOG
Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott
I’m not here to change your mind, just to inform. ___________________________________________________
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