Nissan Versa Tail Light Wiring Diagram? The 68 Latest Answer

Taillights are essential parts of our car’s safety system and warn us when other drivers are around when it’s dark. If your tail light cracks or becomes compromised in any way, it can cause problems for you and others sharing the roads with you.

Luckily, taillights are a relatively easy and quick fix that you can tackle on your own or pay for professional services. Depending on the type of repair, it can be minor or cost a lot.

How much would it cost to fix a taillight in 2022?

If your tail light bulb goes bad, it generally costs between $20 and $100 to repair.

If it’s the lens, wiring, or an all-new taillight assembly, the new price range for 2022 is $200-$2000. Labor costs and the type of parts and equipment used ultimately determine the final price.

The price of replacing the assembly varies depending on the make and model of the vehicle. It depends on who you go to when hiring a mechanic, but they will charge you less than a dealer to fix the taillight.

Cost of replacing the rear light bulb

It helps to understand the different parts of a taillight if you break down the cost of each piece.

How much does a taillight bulb cost?

A tail light uses two types of bulbs: LED and halogen bulbs. A halogen light set costs $4-$6, while LED taillights cost $4-$6 per light at a home auto parts store or mechanic’s shop.

Tail light cover cost

The taillight cover is the protective barrier that separates the taillight bulbs from the elements. It helps keep your lights in tip-top shape while driving, but they can easily break from a low-collision impact.

The cost of a set of taillights in different designs and colors can range from $50 to $120. The labor costs an additional $75 to $180 depending on where you live.

tail light lens cost

This term is sometimes used interchangeably with tail light cover. However, it depends on where you shop if they differentiate between the plastic cover that goes over the taillight itself, or the small rectangular or round pieces inside that are red.

The small lens part inside can cost anywhere from $150 to $800 to fix this part.

How much does it cost to repair the taillight wiring?

If the taillight wiring becomes damaged, a technician can usually fix the problem within an hour for between $70 and $120. You can also do it yourself if you are familiar with car wiring.

How to replace a taillight assembly and cover

To save yourself valuable time and money, decide to replant your taillight in the following simple steps.

Tools and equipment needed

Depending on your vehicle, the tools required to replace your taillight assembly may vary.

In general you need:

safety goggles

Properly sized wrenches, ratchet and sockets

screwdriver

Step 1: Security

Safety is of the utmost importance, especially when working with wires and light bulbs. The first step is to disconnect the car battery. This will reduce the chance of getting electrocuted when replacing the lightbulb. The next step is to access the taillights through the trunk or tailgate.

It’s best to perform this task in a well-lit area; However, you can use a flashlight if that is not possible. Keep in mind that some cars have extra padding for carpets in the access point path. Remove these covers until you can see the back of the taillights. Some vehicles require a panel to be removed to gain access to the taillights. So have a screwdriver ready.

Step 2: Remove the lamp holders

After you can see and touch the taillights, take the bulb sockets and remove them from the back of the bulb. Remove them by turning them clockwise.

Take the burned out lightbulbs and remove them; If the lightbulb breaks, don’t cut yourself. This is the point at which you should put on gloves to keep the bulbs clean and to preserve bulb life and effectiveness.

Step 3: Remove the assembly

Next you need to remove the tail light assembly. This is easy to manage once you find and remove the nuts. Chances are you will need to use some oil or grease to loosen the nuts. After the nuts are out, the assembly should slide out easily.

Step 4: Install and test everything

Before replacing the assembly in its housing, hand tighten the screws before using a ratchet. Note that over-tightening these nuts may creak or crack the housing. Replace the bulb sockets that look different from the brake lights and turn signals. Next, if there is any upholstery, carpeting or trim that needs to be reinstalled in the trunk, please do so. Finally, remember to reconnect to get better that way.

Where can I have my rear light repaired?

You can have your taillight fixed at any local dealer, but it will cost you a lot more than going to the local mechanic or fixing it yourself. It’s a relatively quick and straightforward solution that doesn’t take much time.

How long does it take to repair a taillight cover?

First of all, the “lenses” or plastic covers for taillights are not sold separately. This means that for such a repair you will have to buy the entire taillight. The good thing is that replacing all the bulbs is not a difficult task and should only take 30 minutes to an hour.

Is it illegal to drive with a broken taillight cover?

Various police officers will actually give you a subpoena for a broken tail light cover; They will probably warn you and tell you to fix the problem as soon as possible.

It’s not a problem if it’s cracked, but if it’s completely broken and doesn’t cover the bulb, it becomes illegal because the tail light has to be red; the light cannot be white. If you find your taillight cover is cracked beyond repair, have it replaced or in the meantime get the red taillight repair tape instead of risking a ticket.

Sources of supply for rear light accessories

You can buy tail light accessories at your local auto parts store. It is also possible to bring your car back to the dealer you bought it from if they sell a specific brand like Nissan or Honda.

Home> Rear light assembly

rear light assembly

rear light assembly

The taillight assembly is the group of lights mounted on the rear of your vehicle. They consist of a rear light, brake light and reversing light. Each pair of lights serves a specific purpose of being noticeable at night. The taillights are red and wired to illuminate when the front position lights are turned on. The brake lights come on when the driver presses the brake pedals. These lights are bright red and are fitted in multiples of two on either side of the vehicle.

On some automobiles, the brake lights can be combined with the vehicle’s taillights. In such cases, they can be installed as a dual intensity lamp with a brighter intensity for the brake light. Cars are also fitted with fog lights to aid rearward visibility in dense, foggy weather conditions. Reversing lights turn on when the driver engages reverse gear to reverse the vehicle. You must ensure that the rear lights are working properly, both for your safety and that of other drivers.

If your taillights are externally damaged or the taillight lenses are tinted, consider replacing the taillight assembly. At buy car parts we stock a wide range of rear light assemblies for every make and model of car.

We have original OEM replacement parts and premium aftermarket parts. All our car parts are thoroughly tested and guaranteed. To view the parts that fit your vehicle, select the correct year, make and model of your car from our online catalogue. At buy auto parts you will find high-quality taillights at unbeatable prices and free shipping. If you have any questions about our auto parts, call our toll-free support line at 1-888-907-7225 or email us at [email protected]./

How to wire a trailer. . . Trailer Wiring Diagram . . . And more

So many wires. . . so many colors . . And so many kinds of trailer wiring connectors. Oops! Where should I start? I need a wiring diagram for the trailer. And a little more info to make sure I’m doing it right!

There are several standards for trailer wiring and if you search you will find a different trailer wiring diagram for each. Each standard has a different purpose, so please don’t just invent it as you go. Don’t make a weird wired trailer. Follow these guidelines and do it right!

The approach for you depends on your electrical needs. Every trailer needs light to start – brake lights, turn signals and tail lights. Some also need side markers and running lights. Some brakes also require power – to apply electric brakes or disable hydraulic brakes when reversing.

The following trailer wiring diagrams and explanations are a cross between an electrical wiring diagram and wiring on a trailer. We recommend these standards because they are fairly universal. However, there are industry standards with different connectors and cable arrangements for specific situations. It can get confusing, so if you don’t already have a specific standard in mind, follow these.

4-pin flat connector

All trailers require at least 4 functions: taillights, brake lights, left and right signals. 4 wires give these functions, so the simplest schematic is a 4-pin connector.

The most common 4-wire connector is the 4-pin spade connector, as shown here. Trailers using this are usually fairly light and don’t have brakes or other electrical accessories. This is the most common style for consumer type followers. Small utility trailers, light boat trailers, small RV trailers, off-road trailers and many more use this traditional 4-pin spade connector.

Light trailer (no brakes) = Use a 4-pin connector.

1. White = Ground (See notes on white wire below.)

2. Brown = taillights, side markers and running lights (See notes on brown wire below.)

3. Yellow = Left turn signal and left brake light

4. Green = Right turn signal and right brake light

Please refer to the Trailer Wiring Diagram and Terminal Application Chart below. The 4-pin connector only has the first 4 items listed. You can ignore the rest.

5 pin flat connector

(There are also round 5-pin connectors.)

Trailers with capacity over 3000# total trailer gross weight should have brakes. It’s not mandatory everywhere, but it’s a good idea.

If a trailer has brakes then it needs a connector with at least 5 pins. The 5th pin, a blue wire, provides power to apply (or disengage) the trailer brakes.

Conventional trailer + with brakes = Use a 5-pin connector.

1-4 Wire the first 4 pins (White, Brown, Yellow, Green) the same as the 4 pin connector above.

5. Blue = Electric Brakes or Hydraulic Reverse Lock (See blue wire notes below.)

In the trailer wiring diagram and connector application diagram below, use the first 5 pins and ignore the rest.

If your truck has a built in 7 pin socket but you only need 5 of the pins. Use the 7-pin connector anyway (see below) and just omit the last 2 wires. It achieves the same for 5 wires but with a connector compatible with your truck. The 5 pin spade connector on top is nice for ease of use, but if your vehicle already has a 7 pin just use it. Within the standards, it’s okay to omit wires for your individual situation.

Also worth mentioning when does my trailer need brakes?

7 pin connector

For trailers that have a bit more going on electrically, we recommend 7-pin plug connections. The 2 pins added are typically for auxiliary power and reverse lights.

Extended Use Trailer + with Brakes, Aux Power & Reversing Lights = 7 pin connector. (There are also 6-pin connectors, but they’re less common.)

1-4 Wire the first 4 pins as above, and the 5th wire goes to the brakes.

5. Blue = Electric Brakes or Hydraulic Reverse Lock (See blue wire notes below.)

6. Red (or Black) = 12V Auxiliary Power (See Red Wire Notes below.)

7. Purple = reverse light (sometimes a different color.)

7 pin connectors like the one pictured are very common for RVs and other larger trailers. We recommend this style. There are other styles too – although the pinouts are often different. Several industrial styles are similar and definitely use different pins.

It’s okay to leave a pin or two empty (unused and unconnected). For example, if you’re looking at the trailer wiring diagram and want an auxiliary power supply, but don’t have reversing lights, just omit the purple wire. An empty spot (unconnected pin) does no harm.

The trailer wiring diagram and connector application table

Trailer Wire Color Codes – Colors match trailer wiring diagram Connection Type Pin Function Color Description 7-Pin 6-Pin 5-Pin 4-Pin 1 Ground White Ground for all trailer electrical functions. 2 taillights

running lights

Side markers Braun Power for all normally on lamps.

Rear, running and side marker lights. 3 Left brake light

Indicator left Yellow Multifunction signal for the

Tail light left rear 4 brake light right

Turn signal right green multifunction signal for the

Right Side Taillight 5 Brake Blue Electric brakes control power

or Hydraulic brake release (5 pin only) 6 Battery Red

(or Black) Vehicle voltage +12 V

For charging trailer batteries and accessories. 7 Reversing lights Purple reversing lights on trailer taillights

/ Hydraulic brake release

Single axis trailer wiring

Tandem axle trailer wiring

Typical trailer wiring diagram and wiring diagram

The 2 wiring diagrams above will meet the needs of most trailers. The first picture shows a single axle trailer and the second shows the wiring for tandem axles. Only the (blue) brake and (white) ground wires are different. You can extend the same conditions for more axes.

Use only the wires you need and ignore the others. For example, if you don’t need auxiliary power, just omit it. If the axles don’t have brakes, then this isn’t necessary. Do not change pin numbers or wire positions if a feature is not used – just leave the pin blank (not connected).

Three center marker lights

The trailer wiring diagrams above do not show the triple set of center front and rear marker lights. Some followers need them, some don’t. Check local ordinances for requirements.

Some trailers require 3 center marker lights – center rear, maybe low (on the bumper) and/or high and maybe front. Check legal requirements to determine if they are required in your country or jurisdiction.

For trailers in the US: Typically, a red 3-light set on the rear is required if the trailer is 80″ or wider – or – if it has over 10,000 lbs GVWR. Also near the top in the back if larger than a certain amount. A set of 3 orange lights is required near the tip at the front if higher than a certain amount (usually slightly above the height of the tow vehicle). Check regional requirements again.

Typically the 3 center marker lights are located at a high point on the trailer – like over the back doors on a closed cargo trailer. They work well on the rear bumper of a flatbed truck, even if the load is much heavier. There are many extras in the laws (e.g. top corner markers) so find out what you need for your particular trailer.

If you need more marker lights, connect them to the brown and white wires like the side marker lights. (See trailer wiring diagram.) These do not require additional connections at the hitch, just more wiring within the trailer. These lights should basically be on all the time.

Side note: reflectors

In addition to the three center marker lights, most trailers over 80″ wide require reflectors or reflective bands of alternating red and white on the sides and rear. There are a lot of height and GVW regulations here, especially when the trailers are over 30 feet in length. I’m not sure about the requirements outside of the US. Check your jurisdiction so you can properly tag and light the trailer. This may be overkill for some, but even if it’s right, it can save you a lot of legal hassle and hassle.

Trailer breakaway wiring diagram

Many trailers must have a breakaway system on board. Basically, this is a way of applying the trailer brakes when the trailer is separated from the towing vehicle. In many parts of the US, trailers over 3000 lbs GVW require a breakaway kit, so check your local laws.

If you have electric brakes (or electric over hydraulic or other) then this affects the wiring of the trailer. Here is a partial schematic for your trailer breakaway system. As there is a lot to talk about we have a whole article on breakaway kits with a lot more information. In the meantime, use this diagram to guide the wiring of the system. Overlay this with the images above to see how it all comes together.

The breakaway system is usually located in, on or under the front of the trailer. The pin pull switch is located near the trailer hitch. The system is connected to the electrical system by connecting the auxiliary power supply (red wire +12 VDC) to keep the battery charged, the brakes (blue wire) to apply the brakes and ground (white wire) to keep the battery charged to complete the circuit. Again, you can find much more information in the article on breakaway systems.

wire guide

Where are the wires going? Now that we have the trailer schematic and some definitions for connectors, where do the wires actually go?

Tuck the wires in and around the frame where convenient for protection. We recommend protecting the wires with some kind of cover. The cover isn’t included in the trailer wiring diagram, but flexible tubing, plastic tubing, or other approaches are great. A jacket doesn’t need to be waterproof, but consider weather protection when splicing in the wires. For tips on wiring, splicing, routing, and protecting, see our post on trailer lights and cables. See the cable routing notes below for more information.

This photo shows an ideal way to manage trailer cables. While the flexible, sealed cable channel nestles and secures within the frame, it protects cables from snagging and the elements. Great work on this one.

Notes on the trailer wiring diagram:

Wire strength:

Many different sizes of wires are available. Typical wire sizes are listed by “Gauge” – a smaller number is a thicker wire. We recommend 16 gauge and larger for lighting. Then, for power-hungry things like brakes, use a heavier gauge wire, like 14 gauge or 12 gauge. The same applies to the auxiliary energy.

Lighting circuits using low-power bulbs like LEDs have low power requirements, so they don’t use a lot of power even with a lot of lights. For lights, a relatively small wire gauge works. We still recommend 16 gauge and larger, not so much for performance requirements, but because the wires are stronger, more robust, and have more surface area for splice connections. The little extra effort is worth it.

Lighting:

We recommend sealed and submersible LED lights for almost everything. Yes, most trailers are never submerged, but almost all get very wet like in heavy rain or washing. Pay a dollar or two more and get the higher quality lights. Trouble-free operation with higher quality lights is worthwhile.

Notes on the white wire:

The white wire is the “ground” or “negative” wire that connects to the “negative” side of the vehicle’s battery. The trailer wiring diagram shows that this wire goes to all the lights and brakes. Also, it needs to be connected to things (if included) that also use the auxiliary power supply and the reversing lights.

Some trailer builders simply connect this wire to the frame and then connect the ground of all other lights and accessories to the frame as well. Although this usually works, the grounding portion of the circuit is often the source of trailer electrical problems. To avoid some of these problems, we recommend routing the white wire with all the others and connecting the ground from each light directly to the white wire. It’s a little more work, but it can save you a big headache later.

We also recommend connecting the white cable directly to the trailer frame (extra).

Size: This wire should be at least as thick as the largest wire in your harness. If there are only lights in the circuit and the lights are LED (low power) then a small white wire is acceptable. However, if you have electric brakes or auxiliary power, this wire needs to be larger.

Notes on the brown wire:

The brown wire goes to the lights, which are always on while driving. These are the running lights, the low intensity part of the taillights, side markers and corner markers. Also, if used, the sets of 3 in the middle in front of and behind the trailer. Check local laws for trailer lighting requirements.

While the typical sets of 3 lights in the center of the trailer are not included in the trailer wiring diagram above, they are important in some situations. They are not normal for smaller DIY trailers. However, if you need or want them, the brown wire also feeds them (and the white for ground). Tiny houses may or may not require the 3 lights, but again check local laws.

Size: The brown wire supplies power to the lights only, so size it for the power requirements of your lights. That’s probably not a lot of power for a utility trailer, so a smaller gauge is fine. For a large enclosed trailer with lots of running lights, consider a wider gauge.

Notes on the blue wire:

In some places the 5th pin is labeled “Reverse Lights”. Sure you can, but be sure to put it on the tag because blue is the color for brakes. Also, some trailers with push-pull hydraulic brakes use this 5th pin to disable the brakes when the vehicle is backing up. This is not in the trailer wiring diagram above. (If you do this, connect the blue wire to the backup lights on the side of the vehicle, then make a note of what you did.) Better yet, use a purple wire and label it.

Please note that the 5th pin is not as standard as the first 4. Be careful when using a 5 pin connector. Make sure that the car cables correspond to the functions of the trailer.

With electric brakes, the blue cable on the vehicle side goes to the brake control unit. There are many types of brake controls available, so find one that works for your vehicle.

Case Study: To solve problems with a tow vehicle’s wiring that is different from my trailer (e.g. if a friend wants to borrow it), I simply have a short adapter that connects the 5-pin harness to a 4-pin vehicle and the connects trailer drives unbraked. It works because the trailer isn’t big or heavy – and doesn’t need brakes when lightly loaded. I only tell the borrower that the loading capacity is 3000# (although the actual capacity is 5000#). Another option is to have an adapter that goes from the 5 pin trailer to a standard 7 pin adapter (leaving 2 wires empty). This means that the trailer brakes are ready if the towing vehicle has a 7-pin connector.

Size: Don’t skimp on wire size for your brakes. For a single axle, 14-gauge is fine, but for tandem axles, use 12-gauge wire.

Notes on the Red Wire:

The pin for Aux Power is usually with a red wire, but sometimes it’s different than Black. Sometimes we call it “Aux Power” or “Auxiliary Power” or “Accessory Power” or “Batt 12V+”. Whatever the name, it connects to the tow vehicle’s positive DC current. Typically, the auxiliary power is used to charge the breakaway battery, RV batteries, interior lights, power accessories, etc.

The extent of red wire routing is not shown in the trailer wiring diagram above as it is optional and different for each trailer. In the Breakaway Wiring section, the schematic there shows how to connect the breakaway battery box to the Red. That keeps the battery charged.

If you don’t need a separate power supply for the trailer, simply omit this pin. When using it, be sure to protect the vehicle’s electrical system from short circuits (use a fuse or circuit breaker). Also, it is good to protect the system from completely draining the tow vehicle battery.

Size: Use wire size appropriate for performance needs. If it’s just for charging the breakaway battery then 16 gauge is fine. If you turn on more batteries or lights in the trailer, use 14 or even 12 gauge. Do not overload this wire. If you need large amounts of auxiliary power, use a generator or install special wiring from the vehicle alternator.

Notes on cable routing:

The trailer wiring diagram above gives a direction for routing – starting at the tongue connector, then wrapping around the trailer. Other people suggest splitting the wires near the tongue and then running them down either side – right and left specifically. Both approaches are fine.

While cable routing is a personal preference, I like the all-around approach a bit more because it creates a “stem” that spreads out the power as it goes. It also keeps the wires all in one group as they run along the tongue, making them easier to protect. The amount of wire is almost identical for both the split and wrap-around approaches.

Wire protection:

Hollow frame members often give way to wires. For example, if the frame is made of rectangular steel tubing, it seems like an easy way to run wires through the tubing to protect them. While this is true, it also means that you cannot cap (seal) the ends of the tube to keep moisture out. That’s a trade-off to consider, but it doesn’t have to be all or nothing. On my last trailer I routed the wires through the tongue tube and then outside of the main frame members (tubes) to allow them to seal. Cable and light connections are located outside the frame tubes under the loading area.

When laying cables, consider the possibility of later modifications. If you’re sure there’ll never be any changes, button things up super tight. If you think changes might be made later, leave access to the wires. For example, for a small camper, you might think that Aux Power is on the “I’ll never use that” list. But in a few years, you might find that solar power isn’t always enough and suddenly aux power is desirable. By leaving access to the cable routing, routing the extra cable isn’t as difficult. food for thought.

Another good resource with a trailer wiring diagram that compares different types of connectors is etrailer.com. Second, you can get most trailer electronics at any trailer parts store or online. etrailer and JohnsonTrailerParts.com are both good sources for electrical parts.