No Filter Shrimp Tank? Quick Answer

Oxygen is essential for the life of aquatic animals. Fish, shrimp, freshwater snails, crabs, etc. need oxygen for their metabolic processes. It also keeps them in optimal condition, and if they are deprived of oxygen for a long time, they will die.

Like other living animals, they breathe in oxygen and release carbon dioxide. The difference is that oxygen is less available to aquatic organisms, e.g. fish as land animals. Even if, for example, fish breathe dissolved oxygen, i. H. Oxygen that is dissolved in the water and they can only take in this dissolved oxygen in the water with their respiratory organ – gills – while land animals that can take in oxygen from the atmosphere use their gills.

Unfortunately, the low oxygen levels are detrimental to the health of aquatic animals. It will limit their activities, causing them to swim to the surface of the water or crawl to gasp for air to stay alive.

Read on for in-depth information on effective ways to detect low oxygen levels in fish and shrimp tanks, what causes them, and how to fix the problem.

Symptoms of low oxygen levels in aquarium water

While it may be easier to test the aquarium water for dissolved oxygen, there are some signs that indicate low oxygen levels in the tank and they mainly focus on the behavior of your aquarium fish and shrimp.

When dissolved oxygen levels are lower than normal, fish may respond by showing slow movements and swimming less, while some suddenly stop eating or eat less often.

Like dwarf shrimp, they are also quite sensitive to a lack of oxygen. In most cases it is possible to notice:

Conspicuous swimming behavior. They can swim fast and then get paralyzed in mid-air and go back down and swim. Complete inactivity, they no longer move. Shrimp lay on the side.

If the oxygen levels drop even further, your fish will have trouble breathing air in the tank and may swim to the surface for air.

Keep in mind that some species of fish, like bettas and gouramis, are already used to breathing air from the surface. It’s a normal activity for them. As such, their occasional trips to the surface to breathe should not be misinterpreted as an indication of low oxygen levels.

However, this is not the case with shrimp. Unlike fish, shrimp typically don’t attempt to reach the surface, making it difficult to spot the problem quickly enough.

In a low-oxygen situation, fish swim to the surface or near the surface to take several sips of air with their mouths open. It is important to note that sensitivity to low levels of dissolved oxygen is species specific. However, most species of aquarium fish would become distressed and lethargic if dissolved oxygen dropped to 2-4 mg/L (5 mg/L and above is assumed). optimal).

In addition, larger fish are affected by low oxygen levels before smaller fish. So if you frequently see larger fish at the surface while the smaller fish are busy swimming, do an oxygen test to see if the dissolved oxygen is at the right level.

Also, a closer look at your gills’ gills reveals their desperate attempts to get enough oxygen from the aquarium water by pushing water through their gills faster.

Causes of lack of oxygen in the tank

Here is the list of the main causes of low oxygen levels in the tanks:

Overstocking High water temperature Water movement Excess waste Chemicals and medicines Aquatic plants Driftwood and biofilm

1. Overstock:

This is the most common cause of oxygen starvation in community tanks.

Remember that it is difficult to maintain good water quality in an overstocked/crowded aquarium. If an aquarium is overcrowded, the oxygen in the water would be used up faster than it can be replenished.

Having too many fish in the same tank can be quite uncomfortable – with numerous fish depositing waste in the tank and competing for the same oxygen supply.

For this reason, aquarists should adhere to stocking limits, perhaps the one gallon per inch adult fish rule. Be careful not to keep more fish than your tank can accommodate and always consider the volume and surface area of ​​your tank when stocking.

Note: Only shrimp tanks don’t usually have this problem because dwarf shrimp don’t need much oxygen to breathe.

2. High water temperature:

Warm water can absorb less oxygen than cold water. For example, aquarium water at 30°C (77°F) can hold only 7.6 mg/L of dissolved oxygen, while water at 15°C (59°F) can hold 10.1 mg/L of dissolved oxygen.

The example given shows that water contains less oxygen as the temperature rises and vice versa.

Therefore, the water temperature should not rise too high to prevent the dissolved oxygen level from falling, and you should be aware that high water temperature triggers an increase in the fish’s metabolism and the need for more oxygen.

If there is a lack of oxygen, you should perform a water change with water at a lower temperature to immediately bring fresh dissolved oxygen into the aquarium.

Alternatively, you can turn off the heater and install an aquarium cooler or blow air over the water surface with a fan to cool the water temperature and promote oxygen concentration.

Another effective method is to put a ziplock bag of ice cubes in the tank to cause a temperature drop. Also shade the aquarium from sunlight to prevent the temperature from rising steadily.

3. Water movement:

This also affects the oxygen concentration of the aquarium water. It is important to constantly agitate the water surface, as this increases gas exchange to a sufficient level and promotes the healthy life of aquatic life.

The oxygen present in the tank water must be circulated from the surface to deeper regions and dead spaces so that it can be distributed throughout the tank. For this purpose, an aquarium filter and other bubble-forming decorations should be placed in the aquarium to aerate the water and thus provide it with sufficient oxygen at all times.

Absolutely still water is not ideal for most aquarium setups. So make sure you install a good filter to increase the dissolved oxygen. Make sure the aquarium filter is working at full capacity and always perform regular maintenance to keep the filter clean as it can become clogged with debris from time to time.

Aside from an aquarium filter, other powerful aerators such as Powerhead and Wavemaker may be required in certain situations to create even more water movement.

Additionally, spray bars, air stones, and bubble walls are also good for agitating the surface of your aquarium and increasing dissolved oxygen levels. On the other hand, one can use a fountain to increase oxygen levels in ponds.

4. Excess Waste:

It is worth noting that excess waste also contributes to the lack of oxygen in the aquarium water.

Fish, crabs, crabs and snails produce a lot of bioload (waste),

decaying plant matter,

Dead or decaying fish/inverts

Uneaten fish food

are all capable of fouling aquarium water and altering water quality, which can lead to algae and bacterial blooms, which can also strip the water of all its dissolved oxygen.

A properly maintained aquarium filter, in addition to regular cleaning, will help rid the aquarium of excess waste and nitrates, keeping it clean.

5. Chemicals and Drugs:

This is another factor affecting the oxygen content of the water in an aquarium. Certain medications used to treat fish and shrimp diseases and chemicals that can alter water parameters can cause oxygen levels to drop significantly by affecting the aquarium water’s ability to hold oxygen.

Therefore, it is important to always confirm whether the chemical additives you use in your tank contain properties that can lower oxygen levels.

In addition, it is advisable to refrain from using chemicals if there are problems with low oxygen levels in an aquarium.

6. Aquatic Plants:

Aquatic plants greatly benefit our aquariums by promoting oxygenation through photosynthesis. However, in some situations, they can also become the source of the problem.

Regardless of their role in oxygenation, living plants can also contribute to low oxygen levels in your aquarium, and here’s how:

Living plants consume carbon dioxide in the water and release oxygen as a byproduct of photosynthesis. However, if there is not adequate lighting for photosynthesis, the plants will use up the available oxygen along with fish and other organisms present in the tank, and if this continues for long they could be using up enough oxygen to affect the life of your fish.

It is therefore important to provide sufficient light in the aquarium to allow the plants to produce oxygen, which increases the dissolved oxygen level in the aquarium water.

Another problem is that if you don’t have aeration in the tank or water flow can’t disturb the surface, some floating plants can form a thick layer on the surface for a long time. It can cause oxygen starvation in the water column by reducing gas exchange. It can potentially choke your fish or shrimp.

Also read my article “Aquarium floating plants. Advantages and disadvantages”.

7. Driftwood and biofilm

Although biofilm is one of shrimp’s favorite foods and plays an important role in their diet, it can also play a large role in oxygen depletion in the tank. This can be particularly important for surface biofilms.

Basically, there can be a rapid increase in CO2, leading to the suffocation of the fish, shrimp, etc. In the worst case, an excess of biofilm can also suffocate the nitrifying bacteria and bring the nitrogen cycle to a complete standstill.

Driftwood is one of the best surfaces for biofilm growth. So be careful with that.

Read my articles:

Biofilm in our aquariums. How to remove

Driftwood in the shrimp tank

Emergency – Low oxygen in the tank. What to do?

In a deadly situation where you notice your fish constantly gasping for air (choking) or constantly surfacing to breathe due to insufficient dissolved oxygen in the tank, act immediately!

Trying to determine the cause of the problem at this point can be insightful and time-consuming, so your focus should be on saving your dear pets’ lives first and fixing the problem later.

Start by replacing a large volume of the aquarium water – replace about 50%, the oxygen levels would get an immediate boost. Then increase the water movement by adding a powerhead, spray bar or air stones, this will break surface tension and encourage gas exchange in the aquarium. Another good idea is to replace the current filter with a larger model or install an additional filter for more ventilation. At this point you have succeeded in oxygenating the aquarium and saving the lives of your fish. You can now permanently address the root cause of the problem to prevent future occurrences.

Too much oxygen in the aquarium

Be careful with very high levels of oxygen in the aquarium, as this is also detrimental to the health of your aquatic friends.

High oxygen levels lead to deadly gas bubble disease, in which blisters form on the fish’s skin, eyes and fins, and this condition can continue to worsen, resulting in its death.

Testing the oxygen level

The level of dissolved oxygen in the aquarium water can be measured with an oxygen test kit (see price on Amazon) or an oxygen meter (far too expensive!).

Make sure you monitor oxygen levels regularly, and remember that a freshwater aquarium at 27°C should contain around 8.3 mg/L dissolved oxygen, while a marine aquarium at the same temperature should have around 6.6 mg/L should be.

An oxygen meter will provide a more accurate reading than a test kit, although you will need to replace batteries and calibrate the meter regularly to achieve optimal performance.

Finally

Hobbyists should pay serious attention to dissolved oxygen levels in the water in their tanks to promote good health and survival of aquatic life.

Variables such as elevated temperature, excessive waste, and addition of substances can affect the oxygen carrying ability of aquarium water, resulting in oxygen starvation that can lead to suffering, difficult breathing, and death in your pets.

One should strive to keep the aquarium water clean by performing regular water changes and engaging in routine tank cleaning and maintenance.

Also, make sure you have adequate light, invest in a quality filter and bubble-producing decals, and also regularly monitor dissolved oxygen levels to keep them from dropping to critical levels.

Bubblers are a much discussed topic in the shrimp hobbyist community. Need a bubbler in your tank? Or, more importantly, do shrimp like bubblers?

After all, you’re giving them that extra piece of armor gear for their enjoyment, right?

Ask the owner of your local aquarium shop and they will tell you that bubblers are a necessary piece of equipment. However, shrimp enthusiasts are divided on the practical application in their tanks.

Shrimp like a lot of oxygen in their tank. Whether the added oxygen comes from a bubbler or a good filter setup makes no real difference to them.

If you’re looking for a simple answer to whether shrimp like bubblers, you might be disappointed. However, reading the pros and cons of this lengthy debate can help you make your own decision on whether to fit one in your tank.

Do shrimp like a bubbler in their tank?

Some shrimp enjoy swimming in the bubble stream provided by bubblers, but this preference is not universal. It can depend on what shrimp you have and how hard the bubble jet is running.

One of the main reasons for including an air stone or bubbler in a shrimp tank is to improve water circulation and flow. Better flow means better oxygenation for your little critters.

However, the saying “too much of a good thing” can apply here if you already have a filter system that stirs up the water.

For example, HOB or hang-off back filters usually provide enough surface agitation to circulate the water. In this case, having a bubbler in the tank is purely for aesthetics and pleasure (for you and some shrimp).

Some shrimp hobbyists say bubblers, which produce tiny bubbles (as opposed to the larger ones from a filter), can get stuck under their exoskeleton. When this happens, the shrimp cannot molt or die.

Other shrimp farmers have a “it can’t hurt” philosophy when it comes to bubblers and air stones. Your logic stems from the main reason you would put a bubbler in a tank in the first place: aeration. More surface agitation means more gas exchange and therefore more oxygen for the shrimp, and high oxygen levels result in happier shrimp.

If you have a bubbler or are planning to add one to your current shrimp tank, you should monitor your colony closely for signs of stress such as: Fortunately, high bubble flow is easily remedied by using an air valve to control the bubble flow rate.

Are Air Stones Good for Shrimp?

Shrimp need relatively clean water in their tanks to thrive, and bubblers can help with that if your filter setup isn’t already circulating a flow of water.

Additionally, you want adequate water flow in your tank to prevent layers from forming near the bottom material or substrate of the tank where the shrimp live.

Bubblers and bubble stones are also an effective way to facilitate oxygenation by disturbing the water surface and promoting gas exchange. This disturbance also helps control biofilm growth in a tank. Shrimp do eat biofilm in their habitats, but too much of it is unhealthy for them.

Also, some shrimp like to swim in a bubble current if the current is gentle enough and doesn’t throw them through the tank.

If you are a shrimp farmer you may want to explore adding air stones to your tank setup. Other shrimp enthusiasts have reported that the addition of an air stone or two can improve baby survival, and shrimp love the extra oxygen an air stone can provide.

Do shrimp need bubblers?

Shrimp don’t necessarily need bubblers in their tank unless you have a filtration system that doesn’t agitate the water enough for gas exchange.

Your shrimp need a certain GPH level (varies by species), and bubblers can help maintain that oxygen level. But filters can also take over this task.

For example, the aforementioned HOB-type filter can provide enough agitation to ensure adequate water flow and therefore oxygenation of your shrimp. However, if you decide to use a sponge filter in a large capacity tank, you may need a bubbler or air stone to prevent standing water.

Sponge filters create a flow of water and gentle air bubbles when an air pump pushes through the sponge walls, but that may not be enough.

Some shrimp lovers report that their shrimp love to sit next to the sponge filter and swim in the stream of water. However, if you have a large tank, those intermittent bubbles may not be enough to move all of the water.

In this case, adding an air stone to a sponge filter can help optimize water circulation and reduce stress on the filter. Instead of intermittent large bubbles being pushed through a sponge filter, air stones disperse the air into a steady stream of continuous tiny bubbles that some shrimp enjoy.

Remember that air stone and bubbler requirements mainly depend on a variety of factors such as:

tank size

Shrimp Variety

water parameters

In general, bubblers and airstones are not considered “essential” parts in a shrimp tank, especially if you have adequate flow and oxygenation through your filtration system. Adding gentle bubbles to a tank can help water flow and break up protein films in the water, but your filter can already do this.

One of the best things you can do for your shrimp is to watch them and see if they need an air stone or bubbler. If your shrimp aren’t thriving in their current environment, adding bubbles to the tank can help.

in summary

Fancy bubblers make an aquascape look great, but the bigger question is whether or not shrimp like bubblers. This answer may depend on your setup and shrimp. Shrimp like oxygenated water, like a gentle bubble flow, but depending on how you set up your aquarium, you may not need one.

If you are new to shrimp farming, you may want to observe your shrimp’s behavior. Shrimp congregating near the water’s surface is a warning sign that they are not getting enough oxygen in the water. Using a bubbler or air stone can help alleviate the oxygen issue and keep your shrimp happy and thriving.

Keeping freshwater shrimp can be fun and there are dozens of species and varieties.

They stay small, eat algae and some don’t even need a heater! They’re also super easy to hold.

Freshwater shrimp inhabit most of the world’s rivers, lakes and streams, but the ones we keep come mainly from Asia, such as China, Taiwan, Japan and Indonesia. Red cherry shrimp are the cheapest, stay small, and are great for both unheated and tropical tanks.

Crystal red shrimp and their variants are the most colorful and sought after due to the many specimen lines that can be bred. Amano shrimp are the best algae eaters and were the first ornamental shrimp to be widely distributed in aquariums, especially planted aquariums. And Sulawesi shrimp are super exotic but quite difficult to keep as they come from hard water and mineral rich lakes.

Size shrimp tank

The best thing about keeping shrimp is how small they are and their minimal tank size. Cherry shrimp and Crystal Red shrimp are fine in nano-aquariums as small as 10 liters over the long term, meaning that everyone has room for a dedicated shrimp tank and the setup and running costs are as low as possible. Amano shrimp feel better in tanks of 20 liters and more and of course all shrimp can be kept in community aquariums of any size as long as they are not combined with large predatory fish that eat them.

Shrimp Tank Filtration

Freshwater aquarium shrimp produce very little waste, so their tanks can be filtered through tiny filters and with gentle currents. If you plan to breed them, choose an air-powered sponge filter, which won’t suck up their young and allows the adults to scrape the sponge for food particles. For adults, a small internal mesh filter will suffice, but some are more shrimp-friendly than others, with fine mesh screens over the inlets. Shrimp proof canister filter inlets are also available.

Like fish, shrimp also dislike ammonia or nitrite, so always mature the filter with beneficial bacteria first and dechlorinate tap water before using it, or use remineralized reverse osmosis water.

Heaters for shrimp aquariums

Cherry shrimp are fine at room temperature, but for other shrimp choose either a small, preset heater or a small, adjustable heater/thermostat. You need one watt of heating per gallon of water, so a 10 gallon aquarium only needs a 10 watt heater. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Shrimp tank lighting

Use a small LED light to enhance the colors of the shrimp. Many people combine shrimp with live plants. So if you want to grow aquarium plants, you need a light that encourages plant growth. Set the light to be on 8-10 hours a day.

Substrate for shrimp in the aquarium

Shrimp do best on natural substrates such as inert sand, gravel, or water bottom. Soil is also best for aquatic plants. Tilt the substrate front to back to allow root growth.

Shrimp tank decor

Decor can range from stones to wood to plants such as leaves that the shrimp graze on. Make sure it is inert or lime-free.

plants for shrimp

Plants can help the biology of an aquarium by absorbing nutrients and producing oxygen. Shrimp also like to hide in it and eat algae and food leftovers there. If you use live plants, fertilize them regularly to keep them green, healthy, and growing.

CO2 for shrimp tanks

Many shrimp farmers also inject CO2 to keep the plants super healthy. A small tank only requires a small CO2 kit, which in turn helps keep costs down.

Staple food for aquarium shrimp

Shrimp feed on algae, detritus, biofilm and leaves, but once that’s all gone they need a food source of their own. Feed shrimp special foods to keep them in the best of health.

Accessories for freshwater shrimp

Small shrimp need tiny nets, tiny siphons and tiny devices. Match equipment to tank size and shrimp size to get the right tools for the right job.

Roommates for freshwater shrimp

Fishy tankmates should be similarly tiny, so pair shrimp only with small tetras, micro rasboras, or other nanofish like scarlet badass or dwarf rainbowfish. Do not trust fish over 3 inches as they may eat the shrimp and mistake them for food.

baby shrimp

Cherry and crystal red shrimp breed easily, and keeping shrimp can be very addictive! Shrimp keepers often keep multiple nano tanks or three in a row called a triptych, with similar decor but different shrimp in each tank.

Ghost shrimp are one of the most popular types of shrimp in aquaristics. They are hardy, easy to care for, hardly make a mess and look far more interesting than your everyday goldfish.

However, the popular question is, do ghost shrimp need a filter?

In this article we will examine if they really need a filter and if they do. which type is best.

Do ghost shrimp need a filter?

As an aquatic species that lives within the confines of a tank, ghost shrimp actually need a filter. Ghost shrimp are a species that are good at cleaning up after themselves, but even so, nitrate and ammonia concentrations in the water column can easily build up to dangerous levels, requiring a filter.

What are the benefits of using a filter?

When it comes to using a filter in your ghost shrimp aquarium, there are a surprising number of benefits, including the following.

Increases growth and reproduction

Ghost shrimp have a notoriously short lifespan and therefore grow into adults very quickly. Poor water quality, which is often a direct result of the lack of a filter, can retard growth and even prevent the shrimp from reaching healthy adulthood.

A filter in your shrimp tank ensures that the water stays clean and does not become a potential cause of reduced growth rates, premature death, or offspring dying before they have completed their growth cycle.

Reduces the frequency of water changes

Maintaining good water quality is perhaps the best way to ensure ghost shrimp survival. Ghost shrimp are sensitive to water parameters because they use the water to develop new exoskeletons after moulting.

They literally absorb the water around them – along with everything in it, including the toxic chemicals that build up when the water isn’t cleaned often enough. When the water becomes cloudy, green, or otherwise dirty, it’s time for a change, and unfortunately, without a filter, this becomes much more necessary.

On the other hand, frequent water changes are also discouraged as this puts the shrimp at a higher risk of osmotic shock, which can be fatal.

These two conflicting factors make reducing water change frequency an important benefit of a filter (or two).

Helps with skinning

As said, ghost shrimp molt and then absorb water to form their new shells. When the water is polluted, they ingest it, which can complicate the growth of the new shell and disrupt the next molting cycle.

Lower stress levels

If the water is clean, the shrimp are happy. This is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind when deciding whether or not you need a filter. If the water is dirty, your shrimp can easily become stressed.

This happens for a number of reasons including problems with molting, lack of oxygen to breathe, and accumulation of harmful chemicals and waste products.

In comparison, you can think of it as being locked in your bathroom with a toilet that wouldn’t flush. Eventually, the toilet paper and trash would be strewn all over the bathroom, causing you a lot of trouble and skyrocketing your stress levels.

What happens if you don’t use a filter?

There are a number of things that can happen if you choose to skip the filter.

Ammonia burns

If you don’t use a filter in your ghost shrimp tank, there is a very high risk of your shrimp developing ammonia burns. These are burns caused by high levels of ammonia, which is the main component of the waste produced by your shrimp.

Ammonia burns are painful and easy to see. They present as bright red-orange patches of skin and can also be observed in shrimp via your shrimp’s breathing pattern as they tend to affect the gills early on.

Your shrimp may start breathing rapidly or heavily and will likely lose its energy in addition to developing the angry flesh spots.

lack of oxygen

Fresh water carries oxygen, and fish cannot breathe without oxygen. This also applies to your shrimp.

When the water quality deteriorates, the amount of oxygen it contains decreases, making it difficult for your aquarium inhabitants to stay happy and healthy. If you don’t have a filter, this happens much faster than if you did.

Death

Unfortunately, not having a filter can result in death. It won’t happen overnight, but if your aquarium dwellers go too long without a filter, this could be a possibility.

It goes without saying that both of the things we just mentioned can be fatal if left standing for too long, which is why we’ve added this grim reality to our list today.

What type of filter is best for ghost shrimp?

There are two popular options for ghost shrimp filters: Hamburg mat filters and sponge filters. In general, sponge filters are considered second best in comparison, but they also work perfectly without a mat filter.

So what is a matte filter? Chances are you’ve never heard of it – and that’s not surprising. It is not a filter commonly found in pet stores and as such it is not as readily available as other filters such as HOB.

Mat filters provide plenty of room for beneficial bacteria to grow as they are typically two to three times the size of traditional sponge filters. They also have no moving parts that could be dangerous to your shrimp and create a very gentle flow of water that doesn’t bother.

Like sponge filters, these very large but efficient filters use an air pump to circulate water, making them relatively quiet and ideal for bedrooms or offices. They are easy to install and even easier to clean as they can be cleaned under clean running water and have no filter media to replace.

In our opinion, the Hamburg mat filter from Swiss Tropicals is one of the best on the market. These filters are sold in kits that include everything you need to get them installed and up and running. They are trusted by professionals and, on the whole, are pretty affordable.

To recap, remember that ghost shrimp absolutely need a filter. Having at least one filter per aquarium will keep your shrimp healthy and happy while minimizing the risk of osmotic shock and all that entails.

Without a filter, your shrimp are at risk of ammonia burns, lack of oxygen, and even death. Oops!

You can avoid these unnecessary risks by investing in a mat filter or a sponge filter if you can’t get your hands on the former of the two. If you go through Swiss Tropicals you should be able to find a suitable mat filter for your aquarium.

Regardless of which filter you use, one thing is for sure: using a filter is crucial.

If you enjoyed this article, be sure to check out the rest of the site! And if you have any other questions, feel free to ask them in the Q&A section!

Dwarf freshwater shrimp are relatively easy to keep – most species at least – and offer first-time aquarists a little “outside the box” and experienced aquarists a new direction in which to focus their interests and skills. They’re perfect for 5- to 10-gallon planted aquariums, meaning you can have a shrimp tank just about anywhere!

To set up a nano shrimp tank you will need the following items:

Aqueon makes setting up a shrimp habitat easy with our 7.5 gallon LED and 8.75 gallon designer LED shrimp aquarium kits. Each kit contains the key components you need to be successful with freshwater dwarf shrimp and live plants, along with assembly instructions and a shrimp and plant guide. Add an Aqueon heater to maintain the right temperature.

If you are building your own shrimp habitat, your filter should have an inlet guard to prevent shrimp — especially babies, who are tiny — from being sucked in. Air-powered sponge filters are the exception, and they can be a good choice because shrimp cannot be sucked in and feed easily on the biofilm that grows on the sponge. Aqueon QuietFlow internal shrimp filters included in our shrimp aquarium kits include a protective screen and foam inlet pad to prevent shrimp, small fish and invertebrates from entering the filter. The foam pad can be cleaned by simply detaching and rinsing.

An aquarium weighs about 10 pounds per gallon when filled with water and decor, so make sure the base you place your aquarium on is sturdy enough to support it. Also, avoid placing it near sunny windows, heater/air conditioner vents, or drafty areas such as exterior doors.

Dwarf shrimp like to perch on rocks, driftwood and plants and forage for food, making natural decorations essential. As your tank matures, microorganisms will grow on these surfaces, providing your shrimp with a valuable food source. Plant aquariums are experiencing a certain revival in the hobby and go hand in hand with dwarf shrimp. In addition to providing habitat for your shrimp, newly hatched young live plants in particular help to balance pH, provide oxygen and improve water quality by removing pollutants such as ammonia, nitrate and phosphate.

Pure water is essential for dwarf freshwater shrimp. Even the longest-lived species cannot tolerate poor water quality, so it’s important to cycle the tank before introducing your first shrimp. There are many ways to cycle an aquarium, but one of the most sensible and easiest methods is to start with a few hardy fish like white cloud minnows or zebrafish and wait 4 to 6 weeks and test for ammonia and nitrites weekly. Once both levels are zero, you can add shrimp! (Make sure the nitrate level is also below 10ppm.) The starter fish should be removed at this point, as even the smallest, most peaceful fish are capable of eating baby shrimp.

Choosing the right equipment and a patient start will ensure years of dwarf freshwater shrimp enjoyment. Read our article on water quality for dwarf shrimp to learn more about how to get the best conditions for your shrimp!

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Image via iStock.com/bdspn

By Robert Woods of Fishkeepingworld.com

Aquarium shrimp have become increasingly popular in recent years. They add a new, fun element to aquariums and come in a range of colors and sizes.

Many people think that they are difficult to care for, but shrimp are pretty easy to care for once you know how.

We’re taking a look at six interesting things you didn’t know about aquarium shrimp!

1. Some shrimp act as cleaners for other fish

There are many types of aquarium shrimp. Some species of shrimp are cleaners, such as Lysmata amboinensis. This species of shrimp “dances” to attract fish by waving its antennae around. They then go into the fish’s open mouth to remove blood-sucking parasites. The Pacific cleaner shrimp is one of the most popular aquarium shrimp and is very entertaining to watch as they move in and out of the fish’s mouths.

2. Shrimp will eat anything

Shrimp are scavengers and spend most of their time in the wild eating anything that has fallen to the bottom of the water bed. They are opportunistic omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and animals, dead or alive.

As larvae, they don’t have much choice as to where they are carried with the water currents, so they eat anything that swims with them, which is usually plankton (microscopic plants and animals).

As they grow, they also eat algae, dead and live plants, worms (even rotting worms), fish, snails, and even other dead shrimp. Shrimp in a fish tank will feed on algae growing in the tank and will also get rid of any leftover pieces of fish food.

3. Shrimp carry their eggs

Unlike most fish, which either lay eggs or retain eggs in their bodies to give birth alive, shrimp carry their eggs on the underside of their bodies. A shrimp that is carrying eggs is called a berry shrimp.

The female releases sex hormones into the water when she is ready to reproduce. The male then finds them and releases his sperm onto the female, who passes the eggs under her tail.

The eggs remain there, being constantly fanned out by the shrimp’s tail until they are ready to hatch. Fanning helps keep them oxygenated—just like adult shrimp need oxygen, eggs need oxygen too. They also fan their eggs to keep them clean and ensure mold and bacteria don’t grow.

Their eggs are usually visible to our eyes and are very fascinating to look at. Some shrimp, such as cherry shrimp, are extremely easy to breed in the aquarium, while others, such as Amano shrimp, are much more difficult.

4. Certain species are nocturnal

There are certain types of shrimp that can be added to the aquarium that will most likely never be seen in daylight. Also known as the peppermint shrimp, the Lysmata dortmanni is a nocturnal species that hides in the nooks and crannies of rocks and caves all day and comes out at night to feed.

So why would anyone want to add these shrimp to their aquarium if you don’t have the benefit of observing them? Peppermint shrimp are known to eat unwanted and pesky Aiptasia anemones, which are a common problem in saltwater aquariums. They have the ability to sting and reproduce quickly, so shrimp eating anemones solves this problem.

5. They molt as they grow

Aquarium beginners often think they have dead shrimp lying on the bottom of the aquarium. These are often not actually dead shrimp; They are the shrimp exoskeletons that threw off the shrimp. Whether it’s a clam or a dead shrimp is easy to tell because dead shrimp are more pink in color, while a clam looks almost exactly like a live aquarium shrimp.

Molting is a necessary process that shrimp go through several times during their growth. When young, shrimp molt about once a week.

Once they shed their shell, they are very vulnerable as their new shell is quite soft to begin with. They usually hide for the following days until their shells have hardened.

6. They are brilliant swimmers

While their primary mode of locomotion is walking, aquarium shrimp are really good swimmers. This isn’t the typical type of swimming we’re used to from fish (because shrimp don’t have fins), but shrimp can move quickly in the water.

They swim best backwards. These arthropods can propel themselves backwards by rapidly flexing the muscles in their abdomen and tail. They move their stomachs towards their bodies, which allows them to protrude through the water fairly quickly. They can also swim forward, albeit more slowly than backwards, using the limbs on the underside of their bodies.

We hope these fun facts helped you see just how diverse and unique shrimp are. Shrimp in aquariums offer a number of benefits such as: B. their ability to add color and keep the tank clean, plus they are easy to care for.

The popularity of red cherry shrimp never ceases to amaze me. Where previously keeping shrimp in an aquarium was unthinkable, nowadays only shrimp tanks are often kept.

Eating Daphnia Please enable JavaScript Eating Daphnia

Red cherry shrimp is known for being hardy, but a question many new shrimp keepers ask is do red cherry shrimp need an aquarium heater?

While red cherry shrimp don’t need a heater to survive, they may need one to thrive. Red cherry shrimp thrive in temperatures between 22°C and 29°C (72°F and 84°F), but they can survive in water as low as 10°C (50°F).

Do red cherry shrimp need a heater?

Red cherry shrimp are extremely hardy. They can survive in temperatures much colder than many people realize. However, surviving and thriving are clearly not the same thing.

Whether Red Cherry Shrimp needs heating or not depends on the ambient temperature they are kept in. In my own fish room, the ambient air temperature is around 76°F (24.5°C), so my custom Red Cherry Shrimp tanks don’t need a heater. However, if your ambient temperature is less than 22°C, you will need a heater.

If your room temperature is above 22°C during the day but drops slightly at night, the Red Cherry Shrimp is fine. You can handle a small fluctuation in water temperature.

What is the minimum water temperature for red cherry shrimp?

The minimum water temperature that Red Cherry Shrimp can survive in is generally around 50°F (10°C). At this temperature, the Red Cherry Shrimp is in survival mode. Their metabolism will slow down and they will eat very little.

Keeping red cherry shrimp at such a low temperature for a long period of time can make them susceptible to disease. Red cherry shrimp kept in low temperatures can become stressed and stress is a killer.

What is the ideal temperature for red cherry shrimp?

The ideal water temperature for red cherry shrimp is anywhere between 72°F and 84°F (22°C and 29°C). At this temperature, the red cherry shrimp usually breed productively.

When kept at their ideal temperature, red cherry shrimp will have a healthy appetite and grow quickly.

Pros and cons of heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank

There are both pros and cons to heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank. I’ll look at both below.

Benefits of Heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank?

When kept at the right temperature, red cherry shrimp will have a higher metabolic rate and reproduce more easily

Adding a heater to a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank keeps the water temperature stable and temperature fluctuations are kept to a minimum.

If a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank has a heater, it is possible for the shrimp farmer to adjust the temperature and thereby replicate the seasons.

Disadvantages of Heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank?

Heaters take up valuable space, especially in smaller aquariums.

Finding a heater that works in a very small tank or vase to keep Red Cherry Shrimp in can be a challenge (I’ve had good luck with this 10W heater from Amazon.com).

Aquarium heaters occasionally break and can get stuck in the “on” position, meaning your shrimp will cook slowly.

Running an aquarium heater costs money, and when you have multiple tanks the costs can add up.

What is the Best Heater for a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank?

Before deciding which heater is the best for a red cherry shrimp aquarium, we need to decide what type and size of tank we are going to use.

Vase or Small Bowl If you are keeping Red Cherry Shrimp in a vase or small bowl up to about 11 liters, this 10W USB Aquarium Immersion Heater is ideal. I only paid about €20 for mine. Check the current price of this heater on Amazon.com

Pan or Small Aquarium The ideal heater for a pan or small aquarium (up to about 5 gallons) of live Red Cherry Shrimp is one like this PULACO 25W Aquarium Heater. It is preset to 25.5°C (78°F), making it ideal for a shrimp colony. You can see more about this heater on Amazon.com

Finally

While red cherry shrimp don’t necessarily need a heater, they do need to be maintained at a temperature between 72°F and 84°F (22°C and 29°C) to really thrive. For most of us, an aquarium heater is required to keep the water warm enough.

Red cherry shrimp are extremely hardy and can survive in low temperatures. But the key word here is “survive”. Most of us want our shrimp colonies to do more than just survive.

About the Author I have been keeping, breeding and displaying tropical fish for almost 30 years. In that time I’ve done everything! I’ve had great success and made some really stupid mistakes (like when I bought an Asain Walking Catfish). Read more… Richard James Editor

Article Sources

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neocaridina_davidi

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/breeding-red-cherry-shrimp

https://www.tfhmagazine.com/articles/freshwater/red-cherry-shrimp

Are there fish that don’t need a filter?

The short answer is yes!

But as a responsible aquarist, you should read our list of recommended fish that don’t need a filter and learn more about adding oxygen to a goldfish bowl.

Why were unfiltered fish bowls so popular with mainstream pet shopping? What are the benefits of putting up a goldfish bowl for your fish?

Just take a look:

Goldfish bowls tend to be smaller than large aquariums, making them easy to move around in a small house. Their small size also makes changing the water a breeze.

And this is a huge plus, because if you house fish without a filter, you will have to do a lot of water changes.

Goldfish bowls are affordable, accessible, and easy to manage, even for younger members of the family.

That’s not to say children alone can be responsible for maintaining a healthy aquarium environment for pet fish. Adult supervision is a must!

Goldfish bowls are ideal as single species tanks for small fish kept in appropriate groups or as individuals depending on the species.

The common species of fish suitable for life in an aquarium without a filter are Bettas, Guppies, White Clouds and a few others, sometimes associated with Ghost Shrimp or Snails.

Here are the top 5 guidelines to follow when choosing a fish species that doesn’t need a filter:

Small fish that don’t need much space to swim;

Individual fish that typically do not do well in community aquariums;

cold-water fish to withstand frequent temperature changes after water changes;

Hardy fish that also get along well with frequently fluctuating water values;

Avoid overfilling as a small tank without a filtration system can feel smaller when overfilled.

Top 8 most popular fish that don’t need a filter

Fish that don’t need a filter aren’t automatically easy-care fish, but there are some true beauties that are easy to care for even in a fish bowl without a filter.

These 8 popular fish species are recommended by aquarists who have gone filterless with their aquariums and managed to maintain healthy and active fish with just a few adjustments to their tank setup.

We’ll get to the more specific questions about how fish can live without a filter and how to add oxygen to a goldfish bowl a little later.

First, you should get to know the potential inhabitants of your filterless aquarium. These quick care guides will help you plan your bowl setup and give you an overview of everything else you need to know about the 8 most popular fish that don’t need a filter.

Betta Fish (Betta splendens) Care Level Medium Size 3 inches Lifespan 3 to 5 years pH Range 6.5-7.5 Temperature 22-26°C Temperament/Behaviour Peaceful with the right aquarium mates

Aggressive towards other Betta males

Can be aggressive towards other fish with large fins Alternative names Siamese Fighting Fish

family

Osphronemidae

Looks

Betta fish are famous for their flamboyant tails with intensely pigmented colors that become even brighter and more saturated during the mating season.

See how diverse the shape of a betta fish tail can be.

habitat

Naturally attracted to shallow, oxygen-poor watercourses and paddy fields, the betta fish will put on the show of a lifetime in any aquarium.

It needs a lot of room to move and a large water surface because it “breathes” by swallowing air at the water surface with its labyrinthine organ.

behavior

Male betta fish are notoriously aggressive towards one another, so you should avoid giving them a reason to follow their instinctive territorial behaviors.

They are solitary fish that can converse in a fish bowl with the right aqua scaping setup.

diet

Bettas are carnivores, so they need a high-protein diet to thrive.

They usually feed at the water surface, accepting meaty freeze-dried or live food.

In their natural habitat, they eat insects and their larvae.

tankmates

Although female bettas may live in groups of 5, a goldfish bowl should only house one betta. Two males in the same aquarium is a “hard no” in any setup as they will fight to the death.

Ideal aquarium mates Not recommended Mystery Snails Fish with big flowing tails Cory Catfish Oscars Feeder Guppies Killifish Neon Tetras Acaras Ghost Shrimp Parrotfish

2. Guppy Fish (Poecilia reticulata)

Guppy Fish (Poecilia reticulata) Care Level Very Basic Size 1.5-6.1 cm Lifespan Up to 2 years pH Range 5.5-8.5 Temperature 22-26°C Temperament/Behaviour Peaceful Alternative Names Million Fish

rainbow fish

family

Poeciliidae

Looks

Also known as “rainbow fish,” guppies come in a variety of iridescent colors. Their coloration and naturally active behavior make them perfect for a goldfish bowl.

habitat

Native to South America, the guppy fish is a tropical freshwater fish that appreciates a heavily planted aquarium with live rock and a generous substrate layer.

behavior

Guppy fish are active swimmers who enjoy the company of other guppies, finding safety in numbers.

You’ll find males doing a fin wiggling dance that tries to impress females when they try to breed.

diet

Considered one of the easiest fish to feed, the guppy is an omnivore that will happily eat live or frozen meat foods (shrimp, bloodworms), peas, cucumbers, and high-quality fish flakes.

tankmates

Guppy fish do well with most peaceful community fish, but more guppies in a fish bowl is your best bet for the perfect guppy tankmates.

Ideal aquarium mates Not recommended Mollys Red-tailed dun sharks Ghost shrimp Barbels Platy tetras Corydoras Larger aggressive species Gouramis

3. White cloud minnow (Tanichthys albonubes)

White Cloud Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes) Care Level Easy Size 1.5 inches Lifespan 5 to 7 years pH Range 6.0-8.0 Temperature 64-72°F Temperament/Behaviour Peaceful

family

Cyprinidae

Looks

The White Cloud Mountain Minnow’s metallic body and red tail are its most distinctive physical features, often confused with neon tetras.

Their scales have an iridescent pink look outlined by black side stripes.

habitat

White Cloud Mountain Minnows are native to the Pearl River of China, with breeding typically taking place in paddy fields.

They are also known for swimming along mountain streams, making them one of the hardiest species of fish you can keep in a fishbowl.

behavior

Minnows have a strong schooling instinct and do best in groups of at least 5 individuals.

They are shy and peaceful under normal circumstances, but may show signs of aggression when mating.

diet

Mountain minnows are natural omnivores and are considered micropredators.

They like to feed on zooplankton, algae, microworms and mosquito larvae.

For a varied diet, introduce him to frozen foods, fresh fruit, alginate tablets, and dried pellets.

tankmates

Being a peaceful bunch, these minnows can share a tank with most aquarium fish.

Ideal aquarium mates Not recommended Zebrafish Tiger Barbel Water Loaches Clown Loaches Black Rock Tetra Killifish Snails & Shrimp Dwarf Gouramis

4. Zebrafish (Danio rerio)

Zebrafish (Danio rerio) Care Level Simple Size 2 in. Lifespan Up to 5 years pH Range 6.5-7.0 Temperature 64-74°F Temperament/Behaviour Peaceful Alternative Names Zebra Danio Fish

family

Cyprinidae

Looks

The blue-purple horizontal stripes that run down its body give the zebrafish an easily recognizable look. It’s a slender float that’s almost torpedo-shaped and looks like a silver bullet when you zoom around in a fishbowl.

habitat

Zebrafish are known to swim in a wide variety of water bodies thought to be native to India.

They can withstand the swift water of fast-moving streams, but can also thrive in almost stagnant water.

behavior

With a strong shoal instinct, the zebrafish form a hierarchy when kept in groups of 5 or more fish. They are very active swimmers with a peaceful temperament.

You’ll find them exploring the entire fishbowl.

diet

Zebrafish are omnivores by nature and are far from picky eaters. You can feed them live or frozen invertebrates and fresh vegetables in reasonable chunks.

tankmates

Zebrafish are generally considered peaceful fish that do well in community tanks, but they can nibble on the fins of fish with long and flowing fins.

Ideal aquarium mates Not recommended Gouramis Angelfish Swordtails Betta Barbel Guppy Fish Loaches Armored Catfish

5. Dwarf puffer (Carinotetraodon travancoricus)

Dwarf Puffer (Carinotetraodon travancoricus) Care Level Medium 1.4 in. Lifespan Up to 4 years pH Range 6.5-8.5 Temperature 74-82°F Temperament/Behaviour Territory Alternative Names Pea Puffer

family

Tetraodontidae

Looks

A tropical freshwater fish, the dwarf puffer is an intriguingly small but lively fish.

You can recognize them by their bright yellow bellies and they have larger than average eyes for a small body.

habitat

Native to the rivers, lakes and estuaries of southwest India, the dwarf puffer will develop a strong fondness for hanging out in the heavily planted areas of a fishbowl.

In the wild, they feed, mate, and breed in slow-flowing areas where plants can protect them.

behavior

These miniature puffers are notoriously territorial and aggressive.

They will attack males of the same species but will also prey on long-finned species in a communal tank.

Dwarf puffers are a curious bunch, so you’ll find them exploring open areas and finding ideal feeding spots.

diet

A natural carnivore, the dwarf puffer typically feeds on insects, their larvae, algae and copepods.

You can feed them seaweed waffles, small shrimp, snails, mosquito larvae or Artemia.

tankmates

A dwarf puffer is an excellent choice for a goldfish bowl as they live best as a single species.

Ideal Aquarium Mates Not Recommended Mosquito Rasboras Large Catfish Characin Longfin Guppyfish Leopard Danios Neon Tetra Filament Barbs

6. Dwarf armored catfish (Corydoras pygmaeus)

Pygmy armored catfish (Corydoras pygmaeus) Level of care Easy Size 3 cm Lifespan Up to 3 years pH range 6.4-7.4 Temperature 22-24°C Temperament/behaviour Peaceful Alternative names Pygmy catfish

family

Callichthyidae

Looks

Dwarf catfish, also known as dwarf catfish, are one of the smallest species of fish that can be kept in a goldfish bowl. Their almost adorable aesthetic sometimes makes it difficult to distinguish their coloration, as they often grow to a maximum of 1 inch in length.

habitat

Dwarf catfish hide in the riverbeds of the Madeira River in Brazil, the Nanay River in Peru and the Aguarico River in Ecuador.

They spend most of their lives exploring heavily planted areas.

behavior

Typically a bottom dweller, if a tank’s water is poorly oxygenated, the dwarf catfish will sometimes climb to the surface of a goldfish bowl to use its intestines to gulp oxygen from the air.

In terms of temperament, they are peaceful companions even in community aquariums.

diet

Pellets, mosquito larvae, artemia, and insect larvae keep this omnivore well-fed in captivity.

Food that quickly sinks to the bottom of a goldfish bowl is ideal, as that’s where dwarf catfish look for food.

tankmates

They are best paired with other small peaceful fish, especially species that reside in the middle and upper sections of the aquarium.

Ideal aquarium mates Not recommended Zebrafish Any fish with a mouth larger than 2.5 cm. Dwarf gouramis Cherry barbs Neon tetra Mollies

7. Sparkling Gourami Fish (Trichopsis pumila)

Sparkling Gourami Fish (Trichopsis pumila) Care Level Basic Size 1.5 inches Lifespan 4 to 5 years pH Range 6.0-7.0 Temperature 22-26°C Temperament/Behaviour Peaceful

family

Osphronemidae

Looks

Sparkling gourami fish resemble shiny orbs that shoot through the water when exploring an aquarium.

With their long and thin bodies, they are strikingly colored miniature fish that are perfect for a fishbowl setup.

habitat

Standing bodies of water with dense vegetation are the safe bets for sparkling gourami in the wild!

Considered native to Southeast Asia, they have a reputation for being hardy fish that thrive in most captive habitats, including goldfish bowls.

behavior

Sparkling gourami fish will love the planted areas of a goldfish bowl.

Just like in their natural habitat, gouramis feel safer exploring open waters when they have plenty of vegetation to use as shelter when needed.

diet

In their natural habitat, a sparkling gourami’s diet consists of insects and zooplankton.

These very active omnivores need a high-protein diet, which you can supplement with artemia flakes, mosquito larvae, and live daphnia, with some veggie flakes thrown in for a change.

tankmates

Choose peaceful and similarly sized tankmates for your sparkling gourami fish.

Ideal aquarium mates Not recommended Neon tetras Male bettas Dwarf pencilfish Tiger barbs Dwarf gouramis Black tetras Dwarf rasbora Dwarf suckers

8. Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae)

Characins (Hyphessobrycon amandae) Level of care Easy Size 2.5 cm Lifespan 2 to 4 years pH range 5.0-7.0 Temperature 23-26 °C Temperament/behaviour Peaceful

family

Characidae

Looks

Pigmented and bright red/orange colored ember tetras are quite a sight swimming in a shoal in a goldfish bowl. Their coloration has a gradient pattern that is difficult to distinguish as they reach a maximum length of about 0.8 inches.

habitat

The lush vegetation and slow-moving waters of the Araguaia River Basin are home to the characin in the wild.

A hardy and hardy fish that is resilient enough to thrive in frequently changing water conditions!

behavior

Characin tetras need a balanced mix of planted areas to hide in and plenty of open space to swim.

This is an active fish that keeps to itself and has a peaceful temperament even in community aquariums.

diet

You can feed ember tetras a variety of foods ranging from regular frozen or freeze-dried fish food to live daphnia and artemia.

They can nibble on plants from time to time, but not enough to do any harm.

tankmates

If it’s possible for your fishbowl setup, the perfect aquarium mates for one ember tetra are 9 other ember tetras, as they do best in large groups.

Ideal aquarium mates Not recommended Neon tetras All larger aggressive fish Small rasboras Pygmy catfish Red cherry shrimp Dwarf gouramis

How to care for fish that do not need a filter

Choose hardy cold-water fish.

The water parameters in your goldfish bowl/unfiltered tank change very often.

An unfiltered aquarium needs robust fish as residents; Otherwise, you may end up with many victims.

Cold water fish are a good choice as you will have a hard time stabilizing the temperature in the tank after each water change.

Fish that tolerate lower water temperatures do well with a water change of up to 50%.

Choose the right Fishbowl design.

The main priority when setting up an unfiltered tank is setting yourself up for success. And success, in this case, is about providing as much oxygen as possible without further overfilling the bowl.

The ideal is to choose an aquarium design that allows a large surface of water in direct contact with the air.

The greater the contact area between water and air, the more oxygen your tank receives and the more carbon dioxide escapes.

Schedule frequent water changes.

Choosing smaller fish and a reasonably sized aquarium will make this task much easier to accomplish.

You should schedule a partial water change every 3 to 5 days to ensure your fish are living a healthy and happy life in your unfiltered tank. Fish can live without a filter, but they certainly cannot survive in turbid, oxygen-deficient water.

A 30 to 50 percent water change is sufficient, although it sounds like quite a hassle.

Consider using a water conditioner when filling your goldfish bowl with tap water. This extra step neutralizes the chlorine, chloramine and other non-fish safe substances in tap water.

Bring oxygen to your aquarium by setting up a heavily planted tank.

The natural cycle in a planted goldfish bowl goes something like this:

Fish produce nitrogen-rich waste;

Plants use nitrogenous substances to grow;

Plants release oxygen into the water while removing carbon dioxide;

Fish use plants as a source of food or as an element that enriches their habitat (hiding places, sleeping shelter).

If you avoid overcrowding by keeping only a few fish in a tank without a filter, a heavily planted facility will provide more than enough oxygen for your fish to thrive.

Here is a list of aquatic plants that can work wonders when oxygenating an unfiltered goldfish bowl:

Sagittaria subulata Sunset Hygro Java Moss Vallisneria Anubias Coontail Rotala rotundifolia Java Fern Moneywort Green Hygrophila Aldrovanda vesiculosa Rotala indica

Start with a well-established substrate base.

A tank’s filter can filter more than just water; it also serves as a breeding ground for beneficial bacteria.

You can replicate this “bacterial breeding ground” by planting your aquatic plants in a substrate layer and letting the fishbowl cycle through this necessary bacterial growth.

If you follow this process and only place your fish in the unfiltered bowl after you have a well-established substrate, the plants can (with the help of bacteria) convert fish waste into nutrients.

Consider an alternative sponge filter.

If your only reason for not having a filter for your tank is bulkiness, you should consider replacing it with a sponge filter.

Mimicking the typical tank filter, the sponge filter circulates water, oxygenates it, allows good bacteria to develop, and balances the nitrate levels in your goldfish bowl.

Practice basic aquarium hygiene.

You should of course still follow the basic cleaning routine of a filtered aquarium, paying particular attention to cleaning the substrate and vacuuming debris in less accessible areas of the fish bowl.

Conclusion – fish that do not need a filter

It’s 100% possible to manage the habitat of fish that don’t need a filter with a few tweaks!

Whether you choose an unfiltered tank as a challenge to your aquaristics skills or as an alternative to the large setup required for a filtered tank, you’ll be happy with any of these 8 hardy fish species.

See a step-by-step guide to aquascaping a goldfish bowl for a Betta fish here:

The popularity of red cherry shrimp never ceases to amaze me. Where previously keeping shrimp in an aquarium was unthinkable, nowadays only shrimp tanks are often kept.

Eating Daphnia Please enable JavaScript Eating Daphnia

Red cherry shrimp is known for being hardy, but a question many new shrimp keepers ask is do red cherry shrimp need an aquarium heater?

While red cherry shrimp don’t need a heater to survive, they may need one to thrive. Red cherry shrimp thrive in temperatures between 22°C and 29°C (72°F and 84°F), but they can survive in water as low as 10°C (50°F).

Do red cherry shrimp need a heater?

Red cherry shrimp are extremely hardy. They can survive in temperatures much colder than many people realize. However, surviving and thriving are clearly not the same thing.

Whether Red Cherry Shrimp needs heating or not depends on the ambient temperature they are kept in. In my own fish room, the ambient air temperature is around 76°F (24.5°C), so my custom Red Cherry Shrimp tanks don’t need a heater. However, if your ambient temperature is less than 22°C, you will need a heater.

If your room temperature is above 22°C during the day but drops slightly at night, the Red Cherry Shrimp is fine. You can handle a small fluctuation in water temperature.

What is the minimum water temperature for red cherry shrimp?

The minimum water temperature that Red Cherry Shrimp can survive in is generally around 50°F (10°C). At this temperature, the Red Cherry Shrimp is in survival mode. Their metabolism will slow down and they will eat very little.

Keeping red cherry shrimp at such a low temperature for a long period of time can make them susceptible to disease. Red cherry shrimp kept in low temperatures can become stressed and stress is a killer.

What is the ideal temperature for red cherry shrimp?

The ideal water temperature for red cherry shrimp is anywhere between 72°F and 84°F (22°C and 29°C). At this temperature, the red cherry shrimp usually breed productively.

When kept at their ideal temperature, red cherry shrimp will have a healthy appetite and grow quickly.

Pros and cons of heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank

There are both pros and cons to heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank. I’ll look at both below.

Benefits of Heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank?

When kept at the right temperature, red cherry shrimp will have a higher metabolic rate and reproduce more easily

Adding a heater to a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank keeps the water temperature stable and temperature fluctuations are kept to a minimum.

If a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank has a heater, it is possible for the shrimp farmer to adjust the temperature and thereby replicate the seasons.

Disadvantages of Heating a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank?

Heaters take up valuable space, especially in smaller aquariums.

Finding a heater that works in a very small tank or vase to keep Red Cherry Shrimp in can be a challenge (I’ve had good luck with this 10W heater from Amazon.com).

Aquarium heaters occasionally break and can get stuck in the “on” position, meaning your shrimp will cook slowly.

Running an aquarium heater costs money, and when you have multiple tanks the costs can add up.

What is the Best Heater for a Red Cherry Shrimp Tank?

Before deciding which heater is the best for a red cherry shrimp aquarium, we need to decide what type and size of tank we are going to use.

Vase or Small Bowl If you are keeping Red Cherry Shrimp in a vase or small bowl up to about 11 liters, this 10W USB Aquarium Immersion Heater is ideal. I only paid about €20 for mine. Check the current price of this heater on Amazon.com

Pan or Small Aquarium The ideal heater for a pan or small aquarium (up to about 5 gallons) of live Red Cherry Shrimp is one like this PULACO 25W Aquarium Heater. It is preset to 25.5°C (78°F), making it ideal for a shrimp colony. You can see more about this heater on Amazon.com

Finally

While red cherry shrimp don’t necessarily need a heater, they do need to be maintained at a temperature between 72°F and 84°F (22°C and 29°C) to really thrive. For most of us, an aquarium heater is required to keep the water warm enough.

Red cherry shrimp are extremely hardy and can survive in low temperatures. But the key word here is “survive”. Most of us want our shrimp colonies to do more than just survive.

About the Author I have been keeping, breeding and displaying tropical fish for almost 30 years. In that time I’ve done everything! I’ve had great success and made some really stupid mistakes (like when I bought an Asain Walking Catfish). Read more… Richard James Editor

Article Sources

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neocaridina_davidi

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/breeding-red-cherry-shrimp

https://www.tfhmagazine.com/articles/freshwater/red-cherry-shrimp

Ghost shrimp are one of the most popular types of shrimp in aquaristics. They are hardy, easy to care for, hardly make a mess and look far more interesting than your everyday goldfish.

However, the popular question is, do ghost shrimp need a filter?

In this article we will examine if they really need a filter and if they do. which type is best.

Do ghost shrimp need a filter?

As an aquatic species that lives within the confines of a tank, ghost shrimp actually need a filter. Ghost shrimp are a species that are good at cleaning up after themselves, but even so, nitrate and ammonia concentrations in the water column can easily build up to dangerous levels, requiring a filter.

What are the benefits of using a filter?

When it comes to using a filter in your ghost shrimp aquarium, there are a surprising number of benefits, including the following.

Increases growth and reproduction

Ghost shrimp have a notoriously short lifespan and therefore grow into adults very quickly. Poor water quality, which is often a direct result of the lack of a filter, can retard growth and even prevent the shrimp from reaching healthy adulthood.

A filter in your shrimp tank ensures that the water stays clean and does not become a potential cause of reduced growth rates, premature death, or offspring dying before they have completed their growth cycle.

Reduces the frequency of water changes

Maintaining good water quality is perhaps the best way to ensure ghost shrimp survival. Ghost shrimp are sensitive to water parameters because they use the water to develop new exoskeletons after moulting.

They literally absorb the water around them – along with everything in it, including the toxic chemicals that build up when the water isn’t cleaned often enough. When the water becomes cloudy, green, or otherwise dirty, it’s time for a change, and unfortunately, without a filter, this becomes much more necessary.

On the other hand, frequent water changes are also discouraged as this puts the shrimp at a higher risk of osmotic shock, which can be fatal.

These two conflicting factors make reducing water change frequency an important benefit of a filter (or two).

Helps with skinning

As said, ghost shrimp molt and then absorb water to form their new shells. When the water is polluted, they ingest it, which can complicate the growth of the new shell and disrupt the next molting cycle.

Lower stress levels

If the water is clean, the shrimp are happy. This is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind when deciding whether or not you need a filter. If the water is dirty, your shrimp can easily become stressed.

This happens for a number of reasons including problems with molting, lack of oxygen to breathe, and accumulation of harmful chemicals and waste products.

In comparison, you can think of it as being locked in your bathroom with a toilet that wouldn’t flush. Eventually, the toilet paper and trash would be strewn all over the bathroom, causing you a lot of trouble and skyrocketing your stress levels.

What happens if you don’t use a filter?

There are a number of things that can happen if you choose to skip the filter.

Ammonia burns

If you don’t use a filter in your ghost shrimp tank, there is a very high risk of your shrimp developing ammonia burns. These are burns caused by high levels of ammonia, which is the main component of the waste produced by your shrimp.

Ammonia burns are painful and easy to see. They present as bright red-orange patches of skin and can also be observed in shrimp via your shrimp’s breathing pattern as they tend to affect the gills early on.

Your shrimp may start breathing rapidly or heavily and will likely lose its energy in addition to developing the angry flesh spots.

lack of oxygen

Fresh water carries oxygen, and fish cannot breathe without oxygen. This also applies to your shrimp.

When the water quality deteriorates, the amount of oxygen it contains decreases, making it difficult for your aquarium inhabitants to stay happy and healthy. If you don’t have a filter, this happens much faster than if you did.

Death

Unfortunately, not having a filter can result in death. It won’t happen overnight, but if your aquarium dwellers go too long without a filter, this could be a possibility.

It goes without saying that both of the things we just mentioned can be fatal if left standing for too long, which is why we’ve added this grim reality to our list today.

What type of filter is best for ghost shrimp?

There are two popular options for ghost shrimp filters: Hamburg mat filters and sponge filters. In general, sponge filters are considered second best in comparison, but they also work perfectly without a mat filter.

So what is a matte filter? Chances are you’ve never heard of it – and that’s not surprising. It is not a filter commonly found in pet stores and as such it is not as readily available as other filters such as HOB.

Mat filters provide plenty of room for beneficial bacteria to grow as they are typically two to three times the size of traditional sponge filters. They also have no moving parts that could be dangerous to your shrimp and create a very gentle flow of water that doesn’t bother.

Like sponge filters, these very large but efficient filters use an air pump to circulate water, making them relatively quiet and ideal for bedrooms or offices. They are easy to install and even easier to clean as they can be cleaned under clean running water and have no filter media to replace.

In our opinion, the Hamburg mat filter from Swiss Tropicals is one of the best on the market. These filters are sold in kits that include everything you need to get them installed and up and running. They are trusted by professionals and, on the whole, are pretty affordable.

To recap, remember that ghost shrimp absolutely need a filter. Having at least one filter per aquarium will keep your shrimp healthy and happy while minimizing the risk of osmotic shock and all that entails.

Without a filter, your shrimp are at risk of ammonia burns, lack of oxygen, and even death. Oops!

You can avoid these unnecessary risks by investing in a mat filter or a sponge filter if you can’t get your hands on the former of the two. If you go through Swiss Tropicals you should be able to find a suitable mat filter for your aquarium.

Regardless of which filter you use, one thing is for sure: using a filter is crucial.

If you enjoyed this article, be sure to check out the rest of the site! And if you have any other questions, feel free to ask them in the Q&A section!

Some of the most common questions we receive at The Shrimp Farm are:

* How are the shrimp packed?

* Will you include a hot/cold pack? Do you charge for hot/cold packs?

* Can shrimp survive that long during transit?

Below you will find the answers to these questions as well as other frequently asked questions. If you don’t see the answer to your question, send us a quick email and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible. Customer Service Email

winter shipping

We take great pride in getting your shrimp to you not only on time, but as safely as possible. So if the temperature is in a certain cold range, we always include a heat pack at no extra charge.

During the winter months we use up to two types of insulation (loose insulation and/or a styrofoam liner). This method has allowed us to send shrimp to areas in the US where overnight lows have been in the single digits. This styrofoam inner liner matches our cardboard outer liners and seals extremely well with a unique (almost airtight) seal that uses a special lap joint design….drastically reducing the effects of outside temperatures.

shipping in summer

Shrimp Farm successfully ships our aquarium shrimp in temperatures as high as 100°F. Along with cold packs, we use the same unique molded Styrofoam shipping container mentioned above. This special styrofoam box seals very well and drastically reduces the influence of outside temperatures. This method allows us to get your shrimp to their destination alive and healthy!

In the rare event that you have a DOA, simply follow our Live Arrival Guarantee instructions and we’ll be happy to take care of you.

How many shrimp can I put in my aquarium?

You can have up to 10 dwarf shrimp per 1 gallon of water. For example: A 10 gallon aquarium COULD house up to 100 dwarf shrimp. However, a good starting point might be 5 shrimp per 1 gallon of water.

What is a dwarf shrimp?

A dwarf shrimp is (in the sense of this website) a freshwater aquarium shrimp. They are mostly Caridina or Neocaridina spp.

How much tank do dwarf shrimp need?

Most dwarf shrimp do not require much space. A 5 gallon aquarium is about all that is needed as long as the tank has adequate filtration and water changes are done once a week.

What kind of filter should I use?

A sponge filter is the best filter for a shrimp-only aquarium. Another good option is a corner box filter. Most heavy duty filters will suck smaller shrimp into the filter and kill them, so they are not recommended.

How long will dwarf shrimp live?

Most dwarf shrimp live between 1.5 and 3 years. There are some very long-lived shrimp, such as the ope ula (Hawaiian red shrimp). This shrimp can live for over 20 years in captivity.

How big do dwarf shrimp get?

Most dwarf shrimp stay between 1.5 and 2.5 inches long. There are some species that grow larger and some smaller species. Many Macrobrachium species can grow very large and are not suitable for aquarium life.

How can I get my shrimp to hatch?

As long as there is both a male and a female in an aquarium with suitable water parameters, most dwarf shrimp will reproduce naturally. The female carries the eggs under her tail until they hatch. Many species hatch as smaller versions of their adult parents, and some go through many larval stages that require seawater to survive.

How can I tell a male from a female?

Most dwarf shrimp species are fairly easy to tell apart. The female is usually larger and more colorful. Species where the male is just as colorful can be identified by the fact that the female is slightly larger when fully grown and also has a broader and more rounded tail.

How do I raise the boys?

If the young shrimp is a miniature version of the adult shrimp, they don’t need any special attention. They eat the same foods as adults and have the same water requirements. If the young are in larval stages (like Amano shrimp), rearing the young is much more difficult. Read the Amano Shrimp profile to get an idea.

Do dwarf shrimp eat their young?

Most types of dwarf shrimp do not eat their young.

What do dwarf shrimp eat?

Most dwarf shrimp are omnivores. They will eat almost anything edible in the aquarium. Many of the shrimp eat the algae naturally found in aquariums. Sinking pellets and blanched (soft-boiled) vegetables are also good food for dwarf shrimp.

Can I keep fish with my dwarf shrimp?

Many fish make a quick meal out of dwarf shrimp. If the shrimp can fit in the fish’s mouth, chances are the fish will eat the shrimp. There are a few peaceful smallmouths that work well with shrimp, such as neon tetras, cardinal tetras, endlers livebearers, and smaller danios. If you plan to breed dwarf shrimp and raise the young, it is not advisable to have fish in the aquarium with the shrimp.

List of recommended fish

Will different shrimp species breed together?

Yes, most Neocaridina species breed with other Neocaridina species and many Caridina species breed with other Caridina species. Neocaridina species do not breed with Caridina species. It is not recommended to keep species that can interbreed with each other. Compatibility Chart