Pheasant Tail Mount Ideas? The 128 Correct Answer

We know what management protocols generally work for top quality pheasant rearing. We know the density (square feet per bird), feeding space and watering space per bird. We know what makes a good vegetation cover. We know what type of peeper we think works best, etc. etc. We know what energy and protein levels are sufficient for our birds. We have everything under control.

Our crew placed our hatch from June 5th at 6 weeks of age in well covered pens. All protocols were followed and yet the birds were “pecking” between 8 and 12 weeks. The factor we had no control over was the weather – it was steaming hot in July and August this year – exactly when our birds were most vulnerable.

We hear from people who have “broken cock tails”. We don’t have problems with broken tails. We also saw and heard saddle picking birds. We just don’t see any backpicking here. What we see is where 8+ week old dicks get their dicks picked out.

Interestingly, when pheasants pluck their tails, a new tail begins to grow. This 2nd tail is a regrowing tail. The birds in the above images have regrowing tails. The new tails have black tips (confirming that the tails are not “broken” tails). The birds with regrowing tails are typically 3 weeks to 6 weeks behind, meaning we cannot ship the birds nearly as early as we could if they had not been picked.

How do we prevent this? The best answer in this case would be that we would have given the hatch extra space on June 5th because of the heat.

Feathers are made of the same material as fingernails, a protein-like substance called keratin. It is the hardest of all animal materials. However, pests, mold and sun can still destroy feathers. But as long as you take these simple steps, your feathers should last forever, barring a chewing puppy or some other accident.

Freeze. When you first get your feathers, keep them isolated from other feathers. Place them straight into a freezer set at zero degrees Celsius or -18 degrees Celsius (colder is even better). Leave it on for at least 48 hours. Take them out for a day and then put them back in for another 48 hours. This will kill bugs.

Instead, you could soak the feathers in a mixture of half isopropyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide for half an hour, but I find freezing easier.

2. Clean. Wash with a mild soap such as dish soap. Gently rub off dirt by moving your fingers from the base to the tip of the nib, as if stroking a cat that likes to have its fur rubbed properly. Rinse with clear water. Air dry or dry with a hair dryer. If the quill is misshapen but intact, you can try placing the quill in the steam of a tea kettle and gently working it back into the perfect shape. Youtube will have a few videos about this vaping method.

3. Save. A cleaned, dry and sealed feather is the best protection against future problems like mold and insects. I usually seal my feathers in plastic bags. That’s it.

If you ever notice tiny holes or loose fluff on your feathers, isolate them from others and run the freezing process again. An extra precaution you can choose but involves chemicals is to add a small amount of flea powder to your container. This is the same drug sometimes given to dogs and cats (active ingredient is carbaryl). This will kill mites and bugs. Sometimes feathers are stored with mothballs (naphtha or paradichlorobenzene) to repel insects, but that stinks and is more toxic. People used to store feathers (and woolen stuff) in cedar boxes because the wood oils can repel insects. I don’t have a cedar chest, but if I did, it wouldn’t hurt to keep it that way, although I’d still keep the feathers sealed.

12 FLOWIES YOU CAN TYE FROM ROOSTER FEATHERS

OPTIONS FROM BASIC TO DECORATIVE

PERFECT COAT

STARTED

PATTERN OPTIONS

12 PHEASANT FEATHER FLY PATTERNS

EZ NYMPH

CRYSTAL SHWAPF

The Swept Hackle Wing General Purpose Fly (or SHWAPF),

PHEASANT TAIL NYMPH

Designed to imitate a mayfly nymph,

YOUTH BLOOD

A pulsating mini leech for trout and panfish

CAREY SPECIAL

A small streamer designed to imitate a dragonfly larva,

FIREFLIES

Designed to imitate a mayfly nymph,

PHEASANT ICE SOFT HACKLE

Back feathers are great for collaring

E’S PARACHUTE PT HATCHER

Designed to mimic a transitional insect like a mayfly

GARDEN SIDE CADDIS

With a tightly wrapped hackle, this surface fly

PHEASANT RETORT FUNNEL

Most locust patterns are slightly advanced, but the retort

CONEHEAD MARABOU STREAMER

Start the fly with the cone head in place

Camden Crunch

Named for a state park in southwest Minnesota

By Nick Simonson Few other birds are as highly regarded in the fly fishing community and fly keepers as the rooster pheasant. From its iridescent blue-green head and white-ringed neck to its olive-gold rump feathers and gray marabou underneath, a single rooster can keep an outdoor collector or female in a fly vise busy for a long time. Nymphs, dry ones, hoppers, streamers, simple, challenging, simple and artful – anything is possible with rooster pheasant feathers. And by late season, the feathers are mature and at their best in both color and condition. Even tail feathers, striped brown and black and trimmed in their iridescent lavender, make for great flies that will catch everything from the smartest wild rainbow trout to summertime bluegills, attacking with ruthless abandon. While these tail feathers, so commonly used in the bodies, tails and legs of various flies, are the first things that hunters and craftsmen think of, it’s the other feathers that really make the bird shine in the wild and when it goes about making fly patterns in a vise. Lower body feathers, which are naturally soft and thin, can replace lightly strung marabou in streamer patterns like those found in the tail of the ubiquitous wool beetle. Rump feathers and stained glass on the bird’s back provide a wonderfully soft hackle for collars that look great for fishing in easy offerings like the Carey Special. The shimmering maroon almond hearts on the shoulders fold beautifully into wings for caddis fly patterns, and the white and green feathers on the neck and head can create lifelike wings and parachutes in dry flies. Keeping just one pheasant fur can provide feathers for a lot to tie. The ideal coat comes from an old bird with long spurs; Its feathers are the largest and most developed of any in the game bag, but choose a bird that will not be beaten by buckshot or hounds. Fly fishing and fly tying is for everyone and everyone! Any fish that swims – and eats – can be caught on the fly, and likely on a pattern tied from pheasant feathers. The challenge of creating each pattern can, with a little practice, be mastered even by those with digital dexterity, which ranks at the end of the “all thumbs” scale! Getting started with fly fishing itself requires only a simple 5 weight rod and reel combo (which often retails for under a hundred dollars) and can handle almost anything from sunfish, crappie and trout to medium sized pike and perch; and all these fish can be caught on pheasant feather patterns. Tying your own flies is even cheaper. The basic tools required are a vise, scissors, a spool and a whip finisher. The entire set shouldn’t cost more than $50 from any online retailer and often comes with secondary paraphernalia such as hackle pliers and a hair stapler for more advanced tying techniques, and the spool secures everything along with wraps of thread before the whip finisher finishes everything with a final knot locked Having a mentor or fly tying club in the area with members willing to share their knowledge helps even more. Two-material flies, or even ones with just one, like the EZ Nymph suite (which is made entirely of pheasant tail fibers) are the best way to understand how to adjust tension on a vise and spool, secure materials on the hook shank and manipulated and given the bit of extra practice required to build thread heads and tie the bow tie with a whip end knot. Start with larger pheasant tail nymphs and wet flies and other simple streamer patterns like the woolly beetle or a marabou leech, then work to smaller or more intricate patterns later. Below are a dozen samples using materials derived from a rooster pheasant. Experiment with each one and add personal flair and other changes. Pheasant feathers combine the conservation practices that allow for great hunting and fishing. Make fly tying and fly fishing part of a highland experience celebrating the multicolored rooster pheasant. Here are 12 patterns to get you tying…then catching!HOOK: Nymph Size 10-16LINE: Black 6/0BODY: Wrapped PT (Pheasant Tail) FilamentsWING: Folded PT FilamentsThe EZ Nymph starts with a Selection of 8 pheasant tail fibers approx. 3 times as long as the hook shank and knotted in the hook bend. Pass the thread behind the hook eyelet and wrap it forward to form the body. Secure them with a few turns of thread and fold them back to form the wing. Build a thread head, whip it ready. It’s an easy first fly that catches fish. HOOK: Nymph size 10-16 LINE: Black 6/0 BODY: Peacock Herl BASE: PT Fibers WING: Pleated PT Fibers, designed by the late Black Hills fly angler Al Campbell, can be modified to to suit each insect. Tie 8 pheasant tail strands at the bend so that they are about twice the length of the hook shank and then 3 strands of crystal lightning. Lead the thread in front and wrap the flash forward for the underbody. Then tie off the flash and trim off the excess. Fold the PT fibers forward to form the shell and secure with a few wraps of thread. Once they’re snapped in place, fold them back over to form the wing and make a twine head before tying them off with a whip finisher. Peacock Herlthe Pheasant Tail Nymph can do it all and is easily modified with paint, beads, Flash wingcases and more. It’s the go-to fly in a fly box and few anglers refrain from offering this pattern over any given season.HOOK: 2X Long Nymph Size 10-14LINE: Black 6/0TAILS & BODY: PT FiberRIB: Medium Copper Wire, this Jim Teeny pattern wiggles undulatingly with its three sets of bonded PT fibers. Try shaping the head with red or orange thread to make it a mini egg sucker and add an attractive color to the pattern if the fish are craving it. HOOK: 2X Long Nymph, Size 10-14 THREAD: Black 6 /0TAIL: Church Window Feather FibersBODY: Peacock Herl COLLAR: 2 coils Church Window Featherthe Carey Special can be used on crappies and bluegills in still waters when those spring insects are starting to hatch. Other materials such as nymph dubbing or twine can be substituted for the Herl.HOOK: Curved Nymph, size 10-14THREAD: 6/0, color matchedTAIL: 6 PT FibersABDOMEN: Wire Over Mylar FlashTHORAX: Ice Dubbingthe Pheasant Tail Nymph does it all and lets itself easily modify with paint, beads, flash wing cases and more. It’s the fly to have in a fly box and few anglers refrain from offering this pattern over any given season. HOOK: 2X Long Nymph, Size 10-14 THREAD: Black 6/0 HEAD: Black BeadTAIL: 8 PT fibers DUBBING: Peacock Ice DubCOLLAR: 2 coils Church Window Feather for flies with a soft hackle and can be worn all over the body or just behind the head be used. The shimmering edges give it an attractive iridescence in the water. HOOKS: Curved Dry, size 10-14 TAILS & BODY: 8 PT strands Shackle: Brown Dry Neck HacklePOSTS: Bunched white neck feathers in their most vulnerable state when clinging to the surface, this pattern designed by Norwegian flying guru Einar Bratteng combines the meatiness a nymph with the surface pull of a dry fly. Lubricate the hackle with some flotation compound and keep an eye on the white neck spring post as it drifts. HOOK: Dry Size 12-16 HACKLING: Brown hackle, rear trimmed, front leftmost WING: Painted pheasant almond heart feather jumper like the original. Brush some Hard as Nails by Sally Hansen over the almond heart feathers to ensure easy folding and durability, and color them with a black marker and use darker hackles to mimic black caddis fly species.HOOKS: Curved Dry, Size 8- 12THREAD: Brown 6/0BODY: Dry Fly Dubbing WINGS: Shoulder FeathersLEGS: Knotted PT FibersHEAD: Spun Coast Deer Hair – a flashy pheasant answer to the turkey-based Letort Hopper – is the simplest of all and incorporates two pheasant feather styles for a great pattern for late summer trout and bluegills feed on the abundant insects. Knotting PT fibers is challenging and the spun deer hair head takes some practice, but it’s definitely fun to sculpt. Make sure the fly lands with a loud “SPLAT!” on the water, just like the real thing.HOOK: 3X Long Streamer, Size 2-6THREAD: Black 3/0TAIL & BODY: Pheasant Marabou COLLAR: 2 Pheasant Tail FeathersHEAD: Medium Cone HeadTo the eye, tie a tuft of darker pheasant marabou as the tail , and continue to use lumps around the hook shank to form the body, stopping just short of the cone. Tie a pheasant trunk feather in there and wrap it twice, trimming off the excess. Repeat with a second torso feather and the collar is complete. Whip finish for a fantastic fly that catches smallies, largemouth bass and even walleye. HOOK: Collarless Jig 1/32 – 1/64 oz TAIL: Short Pheasant Marabou BODY: Medium Chenille HOE: Trimmed Neck Hackle COLLAR: 2 coils of Church Window Feather and its section of Redwood A river laden with eager Browns and a trout jig, the Camden Crunch is the the fly rod and the light tackle can double the load. Keep tails short to reduce busts and trim the hackles for that “crispy” look. Also works great on crappies! Nick Simonson is an outdoor journalist based in Bismarck, North Dakota. He was a former Pheasants Forever Volunteer of the Year (Minnesota) and hunts and fishes throughout the upper Midwest with his Lab Ole. This article originally appeared in the winter issue of Pheasants Forever Journal.

Method of protecting springs

peacock tail feather

Conservation and restoration of feathers is the practice of caring for and preserving feathers or featherwork objects and requires knowledge of feather anatomy, properties, special care procedures and environmental influences. This practice can be addressed through preventive and/or interventional techniques.

anatomy [edit]

The anatomy of a contour feather

Overview [ edit ]

Feathers are made of a protein commonly found in the body of many animals known as keratin [1].

Springs have a protective function

Consists of approximately 91% protein, 8% water and 1% lipids [2]

There are two basic types of feathers: feathers (outline) and feathers (down)[2]

Structure[edit]

Although a spring is made up of many different parts, all of the parts fall into two subsections of the spring. The two main sections of the nib are the shaft and vane.[3]

wave [edit]

The shaft consists of calamus and rachis. The calamus can also be called the quill and is the hollow part of the shaft that enters the skin follicle, while the rachis is the solid part of the shaft to which the barbs are attached.[4]

wings [ edit ]

The shovel extends to either side of the rachis and is composed of interconnected barbs, barbs, and “hooks” known as hamuli. This is considered the most essential part of the spring.

Used[ edit ]

Feathers found in museum collections are often part of composite objects such as hats, fans, jewelry, and spiritual objects.[6] Their use in collection items that may need to be preserved or restored includes purposes such as:

Utilitarian

Cultural

artwork

Natural History and Taxidermy

deterioration [ edit ]

Many of the problems contained in this section can be eliminated or reduced with the proper care instructions outlined in the following Prevention and Intervention sections.

Pests in live birds[edit]

While birds are alive, they are susceptible to various pests, including lice and mites. In particular, “chewing lice” such as Mallophaga can infest a live bird, feeding on its feathers and degrading them.[3] Over 2500 species of mites are associated with birds, including those that live on plumage and in quill structures.[3] Despite the apparent threat, some recent research suggests that at least some mites may be beneficial to live birds (and their feathers) by consuming bacteria and fungi, thereby establishing a symbiotic relationship.[7] Special sprays and soaps can kill these pests, allowing the birds to regain feather growth and become healthy.

Pests in collections[ edit ]

insects [edit]

Dermestid beetle, also called carpet beetle

Because feathers are mostly made of protein (keratin), they are a target for insects. Insects that like to eat protein-based material often feed on feathers, causing serious damage including loss of feather material, burrowed or scraped surfaces, and grazing. The most common threats are carpet beetles, fur beetles, pantry beetles, and clothes moths.[8]

mushrooms [edit]

Other organisms that can contribute to feather spoilage are fungi. The high keratin content of feathers makes them susceptible to keratinophilic or keratin-loving fungi. Some of these fungi, such as Chrysosporium keratinophilum, can eventually completely consume and destroy feathers. Others such as Aspergillus and Penicillium can cause black and green discoloration.[9]

Vertebrate pests[edit]

There is also a risk from other animals, particularly rodents, which can damage objects by eating them, using them for nesting, etc. In addition, these animals can bring other insects and mites with them or attract them after death.[10]

Physical forces[ edit ]

Physical forces that contribute to deterioration include things like shock, shock, vibration, pressure, and abrasion.[11] Feathers are very vulnerable to physical forces due to their fragile structure that can be easily bent and broken, and the structural color of some feathers can be affected by abrasion.[12]

light [edit]

Light can have different effects on the coloration of feathers, depending on whether the color is caused by structural properties of the feather or by natural pigmentation due to melanin, carotenoids, or psittacofulvins, with the coloration of pigmented feathers being more sensitive to light than those with structural coloration. [13] Man-made feathers are even more sensitive to light.[12] Also, the degree of fading can vary between bird species.[3] Most changes in feather coloration occur fairly quickly when initially exposed to light, and once this occurs the fading is stabilized somewhat. Exposure to UV light can also cause feathers to become brittle[12]

Wrong temperature[edit]

Lower temperatures are generally preferred.[15] As temperatures get warmer, mold/fungus growth may increase and pest feeding and breeding activities may increase.[16] Temperatures that are too warm can also help expel residual oils from taxidermy skin, which in turn can lead to feather loss.[17] A study showed that temperature can also contribute to color change in carotenoids, with the most stable temperatures for color being below freezing.[13]

Temperature fluctuations[ edit ]

In addition to the temperature itself, the cycles of expansion and contraction caused by temperature fluctuations can also contribute to deterioration, particularly of composite articles that may contain springs as an integral part. Different materials can expand and contract at different rates, causing the components to separate over time.[18]

Incorrect relative humidity and water[ edit ]

The greatest danger from high relative humidity (RH) is related to its effect on mold/fungus growth and pest activity, which is more likely when the RH is higher than 65%.[19] High relative humidity can also intensify chemical reactions, which can lead to the fading of artificial dyes, for example. Similar to temperature fluctuations, relative humidity fluctuations can cause differential stresses on composite objects where springs are attached to other materials, leading to possible damage.[12] Dew point can also be a major concern as it refers to temperature variations below the dew point that can lead to condensation on surfaces.[19] Common sources of moisture are outside air and weather, human respiration, broken pipes, mopping, and flooded areas.[15]

water [edit]

Feathers can be naturally water repellent to a certain extent unless they are damaged. However, artificially colored feathers may bleed or stain when exposed to water.[12]

Pollutants [ edit ]

Due to their structure, feathers have a large surface area that can easily absorb particles and “oily residue”.[12]

Gaseous pollutants[ edit ]

Outdoor pollutants that can cause deterioration most commonly include sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, nitrogen oxides, nitrogen dioxide, and ozone, which can react with objects or combine with other substances to produce sulfuric or nitric acid, which in turn causes damage to objects be able. 20] Gaseous pollutants can also come from indoor sources, often in the form of organic acids, peroxides, formaldehyde and ozone, and can be generated by building materials, plastics, adhesives, paints, cleaning chemicals or office equipment.[20]

Particulate pollutants[ edit ]

Particulate pollutants include substances such as dust, soot, smoke, pollen, and soil that can abrade feathers, attract pests, and chemically react with moisture.[15] The accumulation of particles on feathers also necessitates cleaning, which can put fragile feathers at risk for physical damage.[15] In addition, particles can cause the relative humidity around the feather to increase. This increase in humidity and the resulting hydration can accelerate the deterioration of the feather.[2]

theft [edit]

People use feathers in many different ways. Certain types of bird feathers are highly sought after or rare or valuable. Because of this, some feathers are at risk of being stolen. A recent example was an incident in Britain in 2009 when 299 bird specimens, some originally collected by Alfred Russel Wallace, were stolen from the Natural History Museum in Tring with the intention of selling the feathers for fly tying.[21 ]

Preventive conservation[ edit ]

Preventive conservation aims to preemptively assess how collection items may be affected by spoilage and how best to counter or slow their impact. Accurate records are an important tool for preventative conservation.[22] Having detailed records available and being able to repeat the same test method if necessary will most accurately represent any changes to the object.

Proper display and storage conditions[ edit ]

Proper care and handling of feathers is essential to the survival of the object.

Storage materials [ edit ]

Alkaline storage or display building materials are not favorable for feathers because they cause chemical spoilage of items made from animal products. Acid-free, pH-neutral or unbuffered materials such as boxes or handkerchiefs are better suited for storing and displaying feathers.[23]

Air conditioning (temperature and relative humidity) [ edit ]

The complex structures of organic materials in general make them susceptible to degradation from extremes and fluctuations in relative humidity and temperature.[24] Temperature and relative humidity can be monitored with a climate control system or managed on a smaller scale using silica gel packs in storage or display areas. Cotton and acid-free fabrics are moisture-buffering materials that can be used in storage solutions.[25]

Pest control [edit]

The organic composition of feathers makes them a food source for mold, insects, rodents, and other museum pests.[26] Implementing an integrated pest management program can help identify current or potential pest problems. If active pests are suspected, penwork can be stored in two layers of well-sealed polythene bags, marked with the date.[27]

Exposure [ edit ]

Exposure to light can cause “color shift and/or embrittlement in organic materials”.[28] Since the structural color is based on the physical structure of the feather and not on the pigmentation, these feathers are less likely to be affected in terms of coloration by exposure to light. Feathers colored by pigmentation are most prone to fading or discoloration while on display and therefore require stricter lighting regulations. UV filtering in storage and display areas is one way to control light exposure.[30]

Protection from physical forces[edit]

Feathers come in all shapes and sizes and can be very delicate. This makes them susceptible to crushing or deformation if improperly stored with and/or near a heavier object.[31]

Protection from pollutants[edit]

Because feathers are made of fibrous materials, they can easily absorb airborne pollutants. The structure of feathers, with their tiny spiny branches, makes dust a problem for feathers. Dust covers can be used to prevent dust from accumulating on the object while it is being stored or displayed.[25]

fire protection [edit]

Feathers are flammable, especially when dry and/or brittle. For fire safety and prevention, eliminating the threat of fire hazards is often the preferred method of control.[32]

Proper handling[edit]

protective clothing[edit]

When handling feathers, wearing nitrile gloves protects the feathers from skin oils as well as the skin from harmful contaminants that may be on the feather.[30] Eye and lung protection may also be required.

support [edit]

A suitable support system is necessary for the storage and display of penwork. Materials that can work well in this regard are Tyvek and Ethafoam, which can be carved and shaped to fit unique objects.[30]

Dangers[ edit ]

Due to the particularly high risk of spoilage from pests, many feathered objects and specimens have historically been treated with a variety of substances intended as pest control agents. These substances, including hazardous chemicals such as mercuric chloride, benzene, arsenic, strychnine, and even dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane (DDT), among others, have been used in various mixtures and applied to objects in collections in both liquid and powdered forms.[33]

Residues from previous applications of hazardous insecticides may be present even if not visible; Therefore, gloves, respirators, eye protection, and other protective clothing can be used to avoid exposure.[12] During handling, feathers can be placed on a cloth or Tyvek sheet to prevent the spread of pesticide residues around the environment or workplace, and the use of a HEPA-filtered vacuum cleaner can prevent the spread of airborne pesticide residue particles[30 ]

When pesticide residues are discovered, certain legal obligations may exist, such as: B. NAGPRA in the US, which requires the institution to inform the recipients of the items of the presence of the hazardous substances.

Interventional preservation[edit]

cleaning [edit]

Removing dirt and organic matter from feathers is an important step in the conservation process. Here are some of the ways feathers are typically cleaned by restorers:

Dry cleaning[edit]

Using a small vacuum with a HEPA filter allows conservators to remove dust and other particles not embedded on the feather. This method cannot be used by restorers when dealing with fragile feathers due to the likelihood of damage.[34] Flat sable brushes can also be used to remove light dust or dirt from feathered items. In addition, microfiber towels are very effective at removing and trapping dust. Latex-free cosmetic sponges can also be used as a chemical cleaning tool for contour feathers.[27]

solvent [edit]

Certain mild soap solvents are typically used to clean feathers and are used primarily on feathers that have not been dyed or painted to prevent color bleeding. One such solvent, isopropyl alcohol, is usually diluted to make it less caustic to the sample. Isopropyl alcohol is also a quick-drying solution that won’t leave the feathers wet for long periods of time. Diluting ethanol with water is an effective way to clean dye-free natural feathers. Gentle soaps and solvents are also often used on live specimens when approved by a veterinarian or zoologist.[34]

Spring basket from the Warkworth Museum

Structural treatments[ edit ]

A live specimen can sometimes lose some of its vital flight feathers, and there are ways to repair them to restore the bird’s flight. Springs from another source are placed in the hollow part of the spring and secured with small splints. In the bird world this process is called imping. A procedure like this allows a bird to continue flying until the old quill falls out and a new feather takes its place during molting.[35]

Mounted birds and feathers are repaired using several simple methods. Tattered or untidy feathers can be restored to shape with mist, warm cotton compresses, or light steam.[36] In the case of springs that fall out of a holder or are broken in two pieces, the pieces are reattached with some glue or attached to a rail to restore the structure of the spring. Extreme care is always taken to ensure that the adhesive does not catch on the barbs. In some cases, a glue made from wheat starch paste is used to reattach feathers to the skin or to each other.[37]

Resources[edit]

There are many different sources both online and in person to learn more about feather conservation. Both the AIC wiki[38] and the AIC wiki for feathers are jumping-off points into conservation topics, including the care of feathers. Many museums and conservation organizations also offer feather conservation courses.

Further Reading[edit]

Demoute, Jean Frances. Sources, properties and uses of natural materials. Amsterdam; Boston; London: Elsevier/Architectural Press, 2006.

Pearlstein, Ellen J. The Preservation of Penwork from Central and South America / Edited by Ellen Pearlstein. 2017. Print.

Wright, Margot M. and Conservators of Ethnographic Artifacts. The Conservation of Fur, Feather and Skin: Seminar Organized by the Conservators of Ethnographic Artefacts at the Museum of London on December 11, 2000 / Edited by Margot M. Wright. London: Archetype, 2002. Print. CEA Ser. ; #3

Pheasant Tail Nymph – the best you can get in an all season fly

Tuesday September 8, 2015 | Administrator

Of all the fly fishing flies out there, the Pheasant Tail Nymph (PTN) is the best indicator of actual trout food as the season progresses. The original pattern, tied by English river keeper Frank Sawyer, uses the butt ends belonging to the pheasant to develop a wing box. A practical variant is the bow tie tied as a gold pearl head. Frank did not aim to show the pheasant tail nymph’s legs as he had observed nymphs tuck them inwards when swimming. He developed the pheasant tail nymph to be used on the River Avon in Wiltshire, southern England. it suddenly became world famous. Frank’s book “Nymphs and Trout”, first published in 1958, describes the method of tying and angling the pheasant tail nymph. The key theme of his fly fishing flies is simplicity. Frank Sawyer is also legendary for the Sawyer Killer Bug, which is tied with legendary Chadwick’s 477 wool, originally used to darn socks!

The Pheasant Tail is without a doubt the best imitation mayfly nymph ever designed, once you examine the natural active darter nymph you can understand why. For example, just search for the photo of a Blue Winged Olive nymph and you’ll find that she fits her profile and color perfectly. The nymph is said to sink rapidly while being presented upstream to a trout feeding below the surface. It works really efficiently in the moving water of limestone streams and then in the still water of reservoirs. It is one of the most popular fish fly fishing flies. Various species of mayflies appear throughout the year and the nymph stage is the easiest for trout to find. Mayfly nymphs are adaptable as they can live in fast, turbulent water or in slow or still water environments. If you mix the gravel in a stream or lake and look at riverbed rocks you’ll find the nymphs, but it’s a simple matter of adjusting the fly size to get a convincing equality. The mayfly nymph on a river or lake bed will try to hide and it can be difficult for fish not to get anything like the mature nymphs that rise to the surface to emerge into the adult dun fly.

If you see fish darting back and forth under the water, they are simply snatching up ascending mature nymphs, possibly flying, as the current simply sweeps them by. You don’t need a heavily weighted artificial fly fishing fly to recreate these soaring nymphs. Due to its smooth contour, the pheasant tail nymph penetrates directly into the water surface and sinks quickly. Lifting it gently in front of or to the side of a fish to mimic the upward motion of the actual natural nymph rising to the surface can trigger a ‘take’. To confirm the effectiveness of this pattern, Gary Borger wrote in the book Nymphs that when he received Frank Sawyer’s book for his birthday, he tied some pheasant tail nymphs for use on a spring creek in Montana. On his first encounter with this fly, he caught 27 fish in a 100-foot stream in just two hours, each weighing between 1 and 3.5 pounds!