Plunger Filler Fountain Pen? The 199 New Answer

Vintage vs. modern, steel nib vs. gold nib, extra-fine vs. triple-wide, Safari vs. Al-Star: the fountain pen community has always had and always will have various “debates” about which is better. Of course, there is no right answer, but endlessly discussing the little things is part of what makes this hobby interesting and the community so much fun. (Well, 99% of the community, apart from the 1% that tends to take everything way too seriously.)

As for my personal collecting, my interests lie in two areas: materials (mainly celluloid) and filling systems. Acquiring pens made from rare and/or vintage celluloid, which have a depth and warmth that modern acrylics and synthetic resins lack, caters to my aesthetic/artistic interest in pens. On the other hand, exploring different fountain pens brings out the true pen nerd in me and is probably why I have an ever-growing, wildly diverse collection of fountain pens. When manufacturers keep experimenting with new methods of filling fountain pens, you can’t help but try them all!

Why do you need to clean your fountain pen? Why not just pour in some more ink and get on your way? Cleaning the ink delivery system is part of the normal maintenance and care of a fountain pen. It’s part of owning and using a fountain pen like walking your pet is part of owning a dog! Simply put, it must be done to keep your pen in the best possible operating condition and to prolong the life of the pen. Cleaning helps by removing dried ink and other debris from the tip that can restrict ink flow. You should also clean your pen when changing ink colors to avoid color mixing. Amazingly, the nibs of the liner can hold quite a bit of ink, and if they’re not flushed properly, that alone is likely to cause the ink colors to mix and change as you use your pen. Cleaning is also the perfect time to inspect all parts of your pen to ensure they are in good working order to prevent long-term damage and fix minor problems before they become big problems.

INKS

Before we start cleaning the old ink from your existing fountain pen or refilling your new one, let’s talk a little bit about inks first. It is important to use a good quality ink in the pen you choose. What constitutes a quality ink is something that is hotly debated in the fountain pen user world, but most writers agree that they want an ink with good flow, reasonable drying time, minimal bleeding and GREAT COLOR. There are other qualities that people debate about, but let’s just start here. The inks that become every writer’s favorite must not only meet the individual’s “preferences” but also meet the “needs” of the fountain pen and paper used. Not all pens and papers respond in the same way to a particular ink, or even to different colors of ink within the same line of ink. That being said, there are a few things to avoid when using an ink bottle! Firstly, if you open an ink bottle and it has a very BAD smell then STOP and don’t use it. Second, take a bottle that has been sitting for some time (a couple of hours at least) and turn it upside down, but DO NOT shake it. If you see sludge or a thickness of the ink at the bottom of the bottle, DO NOT use it. This ink is colored too strongly and the dye cannot fully dissolve in the water base. If you see the sludge at the bottom of the bottle, the same can happen in your fountain pen and this can cause the feed ink capillaries and slot in the nib to clog. It ends up having an effect similar to Indian ink – which should NEVER be used in a fountain pen.

CLEANING

Before you begin, remove as much ink as possible from your fountain pen’s ink filling system. The best place to do this is in the sink with cool, running tap water. Don’t put ink back into a bottle after it’s in your pen; Pushing the old ink back into the bottle can contaminate your ink as it will be pushed out through the feed by the nib. The ink carries any particles trapped in the feed capillaries or tip prongs back into the good ink bottle. If you use cartridges and the cartridge is not completely empty, you can pull it off your pen, cover it and store it upside down so nothing can contaminate the ink. After you’ve emptied your pen’s specific ink delivery system, you should now clean the ink delivery system (unless it’s a cartridge that has been removed). We like to put a glass under the faucet in the sink so we can do this without the water pounding hard on the pen and tip. When using COOL water, just put your pen in the cup while the water is running and keep topping up with clean water. For example, if you are using a piston converter, you should turn the piston knob counter-clockwise, which will push the piston down and expel any small bits of ink left over. Then turn clockwise and suck in water. Repeat the process to expel the water and repeat the process until you see no more paint flowing out of the tip of the pen. You can now rinse the liner and tip under cold, running tap water, turned on with reasonable force. Please don’t turn it up too high and risk dropping your pen! You should do this until the water is also clear. ** Please note that when cleaning a fine wooden custom pen, be careful not to get the pen body wet unless you have verified that the surface protects the wood from water. ** When the pen is clear, shake it off, then swirl it in some Indy’s Ideal Pen Flush.

You will be amazed at how much ink is left in the device. Repeat the cleaning process, drawing the Ideal Pen Flush into your ink filling system (unless you removed a cartridge – at which point you should have a converter ready for cleaning) and flush until there is NO COLOR left in the pen it runs clear.. After you have finished cleaning with the Ideal Pen Flush, you MUST repeat the cleaning process with clean, COOL water for a few minutes. Make sure you rinse your pen with water several times after using the Ideal Pen Flush, otherwise it will get excessively wet and not write as it should. Follow the directions on the Ideal Pen Flush bottle (we’ve highlighted them here) to get the most out of this great product! Dry the body of your pen and any internal parts that you may have cleaned, such as the B. the plunger converter and put the cap back on your Ideal Pen Flush. You can continue to use the Ideal Pen Flush bottle for future flushes until you can no longer see through the liquid.

CHECK

You want to make sure your tip prongs line up. The tines should not be higher or lower than the others in relation to the forage; If the tip tines aren’t aligned properly, you’re likely to feel scratchy when you write with your pen, especially in certain directions. In addition, the slit in the tip should be the same width or narrow from top to top. The wider the slot, the more ink flows, making the pen write wetter. If the slit is wider towards the tip, your ink will not flow properly and this can result in ink creep, the slit runs to the tip. If the slit narrows towards the tip, it is a line of dry ink. If you are unfamiliar with how to tune your spring and it is badly out of tune, please seek help or be prepared to replace the spring if you accidentally cause more damage by attempting to complete a repair. If using a pin with a piston converter, make sure it still has a good press fit in the back of the feed and section. A loose converter will leak and can cause damage. Replace the converter if necessary and before it stops working properly. Examine the inside of your cap and pen body with a flexible LED light. Sometimes the nib leaks into the cap and this can cause the cap to turn amber if not cleaned properly, while a leaking converter spilling ink into a pen body causes the same type of damage that ruins the beauty of the pen impaired. Also, look for problems like cracks on the body and cap of your pen, especially along the lip of the cap, on the rim of the body where the section fits (especially if it’s a press fit), and on the section itself. These types of Problems can seriously affect the function of your pen and can worsen with wear and tear if not treated properly. If you are unfamiliar with performing these repairs, consider enlisting the services of a pen repair professional. We are happy to answer questions and, if necessary, provide references to specialists for pen repairs.

ASSEMBLE & FILL

Now that everything is clean, tuned, inspected and found to be working properly, it’s time to put the pen back together. When you’re done, take a quick look at the ink you want to use. Gently turn the bottle upside down with the cap on and make sure no dyes/pigments have settled to the bottom of the jar. If so, it’s time to replace the ink. If the ink seems fine, open and examine the surface of the ink, looking for flakes, mold, or anything that doesn’t look or smell right. Replace the ink again if it is not correct. Your pen is worth far more than a bottle of contaminated ink. If using a piston filler, turn the piston knob counter-clockwise to force the air out of the converter, then dip the nib into the ink until the ink is just above the lip of the section. Once the pen is properly seated in the ink, turn the knob clockwise to draw the ink into the fill system. You will find that in some cases the converter only fills half to three quarters of the way. By repeating these steps you can work some of the air out of the converter and get a better fill. Vintage pens and different filling systems often work very differently. If you are unsure about your pen’s filling mechanism, please seek the correct information before you have your pen filled improperly and realize you are not satisfied with the results. For example, when filling a Vacumatic, you should squeeze the plunger about 10 times, pausing at the top for a few seconds before each dip. After filling your pen, remove it from the ink bottle and quickly wipe away any excess ink with a clean paper towel or a soft, lint-free cloth suitable for this application. Enjoy

Your pen should now be clean and filled with ink, ready to enjoy. With this relatively simple and quick regiment, your fountain pen should last for years and make your writing experience that much more enjoyable. Keep writing!

Since we first wrote this article, we’ve added several articles that will help you take care of your fountain pens. The one that serves you best is our Ultimate Pen Flushing Kit.

Convert a fountain pen into an eyedropper pen

Some acrylic resin fountain pens can be converted from a cartridge/converter to a dropper-filled fountain pen. For example, a pocket pen like the Kaweco Sport only takes an international ink cartridge or the piston converter Sport, which doesn’t hold a lot of ink. If the pen is converted into a pipette, the ink capacity is multiplied.

We expressly point out that not all cartridge/converter fountain pens can be converted into a pipette. How do I find a good candidate for pipette conversion? First check the inside of the pen shaft and the section threads that attach to the shaft. If there is metal that would come into contact with the ink, you cannot convert it with the eyedropper. Most likely, the metal is corroding due to constant exposure to ink. Second, you would need to test the barrel to see if it can hold water. Some pen sleeves are manufactured in separate parts. You may have a termination that is not fully waterproof. Fill the pen with water and leave it on a paper towel for a day. If you see a leak, this is a no go. To verify your own results, search your particular pen model and the words “eyedropper conversion” on Google to find out about attempts by other pen enthusiasts before you.

The key to a fountain pen’s eye drop is to use 100% silicone grease. The section threads need a small coating of this grease to create a watertight seal where the section attaches to the barrel. When writing with an eyedropper pen, be alert to drastic changes in barometric pressure or temperature, especially when the ink level falls below half of the barrel’s total volume. Such atmospheric changes can cause air in the barrel to expand and force ink out through the nib, causing ink to “belch” down the page as you write.

Other (vintage) filling systems

While the above methods are the most common filling systems you’ll find on modern fountain pens, you may come across unusual types on vintage pens, such as B. Lever, Crescent, Vacuum, Safety, Snorkel, Aerometry, Touchdown and so on. Each has its own unique design, filling instructions, pros and cons. If you are interested in vintage fountain pens, we recommend looking for them at a pen show. Speak to the retailer for more information about the pen and its filling system.

The type of filling system that suits you best is a decision that balances convenience and ink capacity. If you want a high ink capacity and don’t change colors often, then a plunger, vacuum, or eyedropper will work well for your writing habits. A writer who lives outside of his suitcase may find cartridges more convenient than carrying glass bottles of ink. If you change colors frequently and have 10-20 pens inked at a time, you might want the option of a cartridge converter so your pens don’t sit for months with a full ink bottle.

Filling a fountain pen shouldn’t be a problem. It’s one of the fun parts of owning a refillable pen that lasts for decades instead of being thrown in the trash when it’s empty. We hope the information in this article has helped you fill your fountain pen or find a filling system that suits your writing preferences. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We’re here to help.

How it works:

When the filling nozzle is inserted into an empty bottle, the sealer caps the bottle and the air in the bottle is drawn out by a vacuum pump. The vacuum in the bottle then sucks liquid into the bottle. When the bottle is full and reaches the preset level, the filling nozzle directs the product into the collection tank where the product is transferred back to the storage tank.

There are two types of vacuum filling machines:

rotating;

Linear.

Application:

Container:

glass bottles,

Products:

Oil, vinegar, brine, syrup, sauce, wine, liquor, etc…

Advantages:

How to fill a fountain pen

The parts of your fountain pen

When assembled, your fountain pen consists of four parts: the cap, the nib, the barrel and the ink reservoir. Most reservoirs are either a piston converter, cartridge, or ink bladder. The converter and the ink bladder require fountain pen ink. The cartridge is a self-contained, disposable unit that is filled with ink.

remove barrel

First remove the cap. Then remove the barrel by turning it counterclockwise.

1. Filling with a fountain pen converter

Insert the fountain pen, nib first, into the inkwell until the nib is completely covered (Figure A). Turn the piston converter counterclockwise at the top. This forces the air out of the converter. Then turn the top of the piston converter clockwise to draw the ink up into the converter. While holding the nib over the ink bottle, slowly turn the plunger converter counter-clockwise until a drop of ink flows out of the tip of the nib (Figure B). Gently blot excess ink from the tip with a lint-free cloth or blotting paper.

2. Inserting a fountain pen cartridge

Remove the plunger converter by gently pulling away from the tip. Insert a fountain pen cartridge into the nib and press firmly until the cartridge seats itself. You hear a soft click. You can easily switch between bottled ink and cartridges by regularly rinsing the tip and plunger converter with cold water.

3a. Filling with a standard ink bladder

Insert the fountain pen, nib first, into the inkwell until the nib is completely covered (Figure A). Squeeze the metal rod to empty the bladder (Figure B).

Slowly release the metal rod to suck the ink into the bubble (Figure C). Remove the nib from the ink and gently blot excess ink off the nib with a lint-free cloth or blotting paper.

3b. Filled with crescent ink bubble

Rotate the locking ring to open (Figure A). Insert the fountain pen, nib first, into the inkwell until the nib is completely covered. Push in the crescent to empty the bladder (Figure B). Slowly release the crescent to suck the ink into the bubble (Figure C). Then turn the locking ring back so that the crescent cannot be depressed (Figure D). Gently blot excess ink from the tip with a lint-free cloth or blotting paper.

Remember to swap out the keg after refilling

Thread the barrel of the fountain pen onto the nib section.

Now you feel like writing.

Why clean a fountain pen?

One of the most common repair questions we get is how to fix a broken spring. We often find that the fountain pen simply needs a thorough cleaning, but customers are often nervous about doing it themselves. Hopefully, with our step-by-step cleaning guide, the job will seem less daunting.

How do you know if this is the problem? Common symptoms of a pen that needs cleaning are slow or uneven ink flow, scratching, and cracking. We would always recommend cleaning your fountain pen every 4-8 weeks, even if it is still writing well, to avoid future problems.

A step-by-step cleaning guide

Carefully remove the cartridge or converter from inside your pen. We then recommend rinsing the tip and grip area of ​​the pen with cold tap water. Please do not use solvents to clean your pen as this may cause permanent damage to the nib. If you have a built in converter, we recommend rinsing the tip by running cold water through the tip and squeezing the water out. As you would normally fill it from your ink bottle. Once you have done this, gently blow air through the tip assembly to remove all liquid from the tip. Then dry the tip and grip area with a soft cloth or paper towel. If you feel that the above steps didn’t work, either repeat the above steps or continue to the next step. If you feel that there is more dried ink in your nib that is clogging as you write, we recommend gently detaching the nib section of your pen, then placing it in a glass of clean water and letting it soak overnight. Place a sheet of paper towels at the bottom of the jar to rest the top on and allow the water level to completely cover the top. The next morning, gently rinse the tip with lukewarm water and repeat until the water runs clear. As before, gently blow into the tip assembly to remove excess water. We recommend drying the tip and grip area with a soft cloth or paper towel afterwards. You can now insert a new ink cartridge or an ink converter into the frontend.

How to store your pen

The writing tip should remain up when not in use so that the ink can drain into the converter or cartridge. While this goes against your natural instincts, it helps prevent the tip from drying out or clogging.

Putting your pen in a pen case or bag also protects the pen from scratches, keeping the finish looking like new.

When flying, store your pen with the nib upright when not in use. Ensure that either a full cartridge or converter is installed or remove the existing cartridge/converter prior to flight.

Admittedly, cleaning calligraphy nibs doesn’t take much. Simply swirl water around your tip, then wipe dry! It’s a simple concept, but there are a few important things that beginners should keep in mind. That’s why I’ve dedicated today’s article to this simple but important part of creating calligraphy.

1. Prepare your tips only when you are ready to use them

For many calligraphers, cleaning calligraphy nibs is a natural concept. Swirl them around in some water and you’re good! But there is a lot to unpack: How long do you rush? Do you submerge the whole feather in water? Do you use tap water or distilled? Is it better to use some kind of pen cleaner? Today we’re going to look at these questions and more in this guide to cleaning calligraphy nibs.

Each spring is coated with oils or waxes by the manufacturer. This protective coating helps keep a nib clean and rust-free while it’s in storage and awaiting sale. If you want to keep your tips in excellent condition, do not remove the coating until you are ready to use the tip.

2. Clean your nibs with tap water

As an aside, removing the oily coating on a nib and waiting a few weeks or months to use a nib won’t harm it. The nib just looks a little duller than brand new nibs! I like to use a potato to prepare my nibs, but there are several alternative methods you can use instead.

It might seem too easy to be true, but plain water does a great job of cleaning calligraphy nibs – no need to buy special pen cleaners! Simply fill a cup with tap water and hold this cup by your side while you create calligraphy. Every few minutes, when your ink flow is being impeded by the ink drying on the nib, wipe the ink in your “fake” water for about two seconds. Then quickly pat the tip dry with a cloth and continue writing.

You will find that some inks require more dipping than others. Lacquer-like inks such as Ziller or Bleed Proof White may require more frequent cleaning. Thinner inks, such as iron gall or walnut, require less cleaning. When you’re done writing, give your nib a final swish in the artificial water, then dry it off with a lint-free cloth (more on that in a moment).

3. Never get liquid inside your pen

When I teach calligraphy workshops, I always start by showing how to dip a quill in ink and then wave the quill in water. I do this before anyone has had a chance to even touch their dipstick. Otherwise, I notice that students tend to haphazardly dip the pen in water like you might with a brush. That’s why we can’t do that with dip pins: they rust. If a tip rusts in your pen, you’re going to have a lot of trouble getting it out. Worse, when you get ink in the pen it acts like glue and it’s almost impossible to pull the nib out! This becomes a problem when the spring wears out and needs to be replaced.

If you have dipped your nib in ink or water too deeply, remove the nib from the pen immediately and try your best to wipe the moisture out of the pen. If you’re working with a straight pencil, you might be able to accomplish this with a cotton swab. Slanted pencils will be trickier, and you’re probably best off just leaving the flanged tip exposed for a while to dry and hope for the best! The tip is easier to clean than the pen. Simply dip the nib in water, dry well and when the pen is dry, reinsert the nib.

4. Dry tips with a lint-free cloth

Some people use paper towels to dry their ends, but paper towels can be more of a headache than they’re worth. Stray paper towel fibers tend to get caught on the shoulders or the tip of the tip. You will often only see these fibers when you go to write, and then – surprise! – The tiny stray fibers absorb ink and follow their own ink agenda.

Don’t get me wrong: you can quickly dry your nib with a paper towel between cleanings while you write. But if you don’t want to be on high alert for unwanted fibers, use a non-fibrous cloth. Everything will work! I use an old cotton napkin.

5. Use a toothbrush to clean the calligraphy nibs between writing sessions

If you find it annoying to see ink in the crevices of your calligraphy nibs, you can try using a toothbrush to scrub the ink off between calligraphy sessions. If you really want to go into it, use some baking soda as well. The baking soda particles could cause ink to come loose from the little grooves in the nib!

To be honest, I never bother cleaning my nibs with a toothbrush because ink stains don’t affect ink flow. But if you want your calligraphy paraphernalia to look nicer for longer, this is a cleaning technique to keep in mind.

6. Accept that a used nib doesn’t look like a new nib

After preparing your new calligraphy nib for use, it will take on a matte finish. At some point you will also notice specks or small areas of dried ink on your nib. It’s important to give your feathers a thorough cleaning, but realize that it’s impossible to keep them looking new for long. If they’re starting to look a bit drab, pat yourself on the back: that means you’re putting some miles on your supplies, which is something to celebrate!

One of the reasons I love dip pen calligraphy so much is the easy cleaning process. Really, it just boils down to wiping the tip clean as best you can on a regular basis. Follow this simple advice and your tips will last longer! If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments. For more in-depth instruction on calligraphy concepts in general, check out Modern Calligraphy for Beginners online course. Thank you for reading; May your feathers stay clean and dry! Heartfelt,

Fountain Pen Filling Mechanisms

Fountain pens come in a variety of filling mechanisms

This list is roughly sorted by frequency. Most filling systems in vintage pens work by compressing a rubber ink sac that, when reinflated, absorbs ink (like the plunger of a dropper).

Cartridge The pen is filled from a disposable plastic cartridge. Something sharp at the end of the section will puncture the cartridge during insertion. When the pen is empty, discard the cartridge and insert a new one. The earliest popular cartridge filler was the Waterman CF, released in 1954 by Waterman’s French subsidiary JiF-Waterman. Sheaffer cartridge pens were made by the millions and millions in the 1960’s and are still made (in various forms) today. There are relatively few cartridge types in current production and they haven’t changed much since they were invented decades ago, so your chances of finding a cartridge to match are very good. Shown from above are International Standard (fits most European pens), International Standard Long, Parker, Sheaffer Standard, Sheaffer Slim and Cross. If a modern cartridge doesn’t fit your vintage cartridge pen, you can refill an existing vintage cartridge. Ask your local pharmacist (nice!) for needles and syringes and use them to refill the cartridge with bottled ink. Some people say to pretend to be diabetic or something, but I’ve never failed by forcefully telling the pharmacist I need the needles for pen purposes (dressing up can help with that and look respectable). In particular, Waterman CF and Esterbrook cartridges are incompatible with modern cartridges and require measures such as these.

Converter Many cartridge pens can be fitted with a device called a converter. The converter snaps into place where the cartridge goes and acts as a filling mechanism, allowing you to draw ink from a bottle. This “transforms” the cartridge filler into a bottle filler. A typical scenario is shown on the left; a Parker piston converter installed in a Parker 45 pen. The two most common types are piston (screw thing) and aerometric (compressible push rod), which function like their true vintage counterparts. Of course, you can only use one converter that fits your pen, and they’re not very interchangeable between pens that use different cartridge types. Shown here are some of the more common types of converters. From above are Waterman (International Standard), Parker Piston, Parker Sled, Parker Aerometry, Sheaffer Standard Aerometry, Sheaffer Slim Aerometry, and Cross Piston. Compared to pens with built-in filling mechanisms or the larger cartridges, converters usually have fairly small ink capacities that require frequent refills if you write a lot.

Plunger The plunger mechanism is the most common mechanism in modern cartridgeless pens. Historically it seems to be much more common in Europe than in the US. German pens are usually piston fillers, including modern Pelicans and MontBlancs. Playing with the screw at the end of the pen moves a piston down. Playing it the other way will move it back up and draw ink. The ink is stored directly in the barrel. I wouldn’t attempt to fix one unless you really know what you’re doing. The work here is fairly precise.

Lever Sheaffer patented the lever-fill fountain pen in 1908 and was the first company to successfully commercialize it. Most pen manufacturers soon adopted lever-filling, where it dominated well into the post-war period. The lever filler is very easy to use. A lever on the outside presses on a springy bar on the inside. The rod compresses the rubber ink bag. When the lever is released, the ink sac inflates again, drawing ink into the pen, much like an eyedropper. Assuming the lever is intact, lever fillers are very easy to fix if you can remove the section. You’ll need to replace any crumbled ink sacs (easy enough for trained chimpanzees) and possibly a strut if the existing one is cracked or rusted. The difficult part lies in the initial disassembly.

Touchdown The touchdown filling mechanism developed by Sheaffer was first introduced in 1949. This is a bit more complex to operate than a lever filler, but touchdown pens are usually very easy to maintain. The Touchdown pen contains a flexible rubber ink pouch in a metal frame. There is a blind cap at the end of the barrel that can be unscrewed to extract a large shiny metal butt. As the piston goes down, the air pressure compresses the ink sac. When the piston reaches the end, it moves past a seal, allowing air to escape from the pen (note the tiny pinholes). When the pressure is released, the ink sack inflates again and sucks in ink. Most Touchdown parts simply bolt together, making it very easy to disassemble without tools. Replacing the ink sac is completely trivial. However, the pen relies on airtight seals to function. So if the internal o-rings are bad, they will need to be replaced as well. That’s just a little trickier.

Snorkel The snorkel (introduced in 1952) is another Sheaffer proprietary system and is perhaps the most complex inflation mechanism ever made. The principles of operation are largely the same as the touchdown, except that a long thin tube extends from the pin. Only this needle-like tube has to dip into the ink. When the pen is finished filling, turn the screws in the other direction to retract the snorkel. This eliminates the need to wipe the tip after filling the pen. The complexity of the system and its many moving parts have some serious geek value. It’s also the best pen to use as a water weapon due to the syringe-like needle.

Vacumatic This system is often seen on Parker pens from the 40’s and 50’s. A blind cap at the end unscrews to reveal a plunger-like button. Repeated squeezing turns a rubber membrane inside out and back. The pressure changes the pump ink with each push into the pen. Typically the only work required is replacement of a fouled membrane. However, many of these parkers don’t disassemble as well as we’d like and require custom tools (which are widely available). The actual mechanics aren’t too scary once you know where the parts are.

Aerometric This system was widely used by Parker in the post-war period until cartridges ate everything. Many converters work on the same principle. The aerometric system is basically a dropper attached to the inside of the pen. Unscrewing the barrel reveals an ink sac enclosed in a metal frame with an exposed pressure bar. Squeeze the pressure bar a few times to fill the ink pouch. Parker built aero pens are extremely durable (they used nylon or plastic instead of rubber for the pouch) and most are in perfect condition even after 50 years of use.

Vacuum Piston The back unscrews and is connected to a thin metal piston rod. Pull it all the way up and push it down. When the piston goes down, it creates a vacuum behind it. When it reaches the wider end of the cylinder, the vacuum is broken and ink fills behind the piston. This mechanism was used in the Onoto horses and a whole boatload of Sheaffers from the 1940’s. This design has some nasty back-pressure build-up problems behind the piston, which means you shouldn’t play with the inflation mechanism too much to have fun. I’ve never tried playing with the plunger while the pen was still full of ink, but I can’t imagine it’s healthy for the pen (liquid doesn’t compress, you know). Fixing it the right way isn’t trivial either, as there’s quite a variety of pressure seals.

Button The button filler (commonly seen on vintage Parker Duofolds) works similarly to the lever filler. A blind cap unscrews to reveal a button; Pressing the button engages the metal push bar and compresses the ink pouch.

Pipette The simplest filling mechanism is not a mechanism. Simply unscrew the section, grab an eyedropper and fill the barrel with ink directly. Screw it back together and write. Assuming the stud bolts come apart, there’s simply nothing to fix. However, most of us would not be entirely comfortable with the potentially leak-prone nature of this system

“To sit at your table on a sunny morning, with four clear hours of uninterrupted security, lots of nice white paper, and a [fountain] pen—that is true happiness.” -Winston Churchill

Taking a break from the click-clack of the keyboard to write something by hand—a thank you note, a journal entry, a page of copywork—is a uniquely pleasurable activity.

And there are a few things one can do to increase that pleasure and sense of ritual.

On the one hand, attach your writing instrument to a beautiful diary or high-quality stationery.

Another is improving your handwriting.

And then there is the use of a fountain pen.

Putting down your ballpoint pen and picking up a fountain pen is akin to switching from shaving with a cartridge razor to using a safety razor or straight razor. The nature of the tool requires more skill and attention on your part, but the experience is richer and the result sharper.

If you’ve always wanted to see what it’s like to literally get the ink flowing, this article provides an accessible introduction to the basics you need to know to get started.

A Brief History of Fountain Pens

While the earliest records of a fountain pen-like pen date back to the 10th century, fountain pens as we know them today didn’t exist until the late 19th century. In 1884, an American named Lewis Waterman patented the first practical model after a sales contract was allegedly ruined by a leaking precursor. Before Waterman’s version, fountain pens were plagued by spilled ink and blotches, and were unreliable and inconvenient.

The main problem with early fountain pens was airflow – there wasn’t enough. Fountain pens work by controlling the speed at which ink flows through the pen. When the pen is held at an upright angle, gravity pulls ink from the reservoir downward and flows in a controlled manner through the feed and to the nib. If air is not introduced into the reservoir to replace the used ink, a vacuum will build, stopping the flow.

Waterman solved this airflow problem by cutting a series of three cracks in the pen’s feeder. This created a capillary-like mechanism that worked by drawing ink into these small channels while simultaneously allowing air to come back across the cracks and into the reservoir. The modern fountain pen was born.

Although Waterman’s innovation made fountain pens far more effective and convenient for writing, filling the pen remained a messy and tedious affair. You had to unscrew part of the barrel and use a pipette to fill the reservoir drop by drop. Around the turn of the 20th century, companies began introducing self-filling reservoirs, which allowed users to insert the nib into the inkwell and fill the reservoir by pulling a lever or turning the barrel.

Despite the introduction of the ballpoint pen in the early 1900s, fountain pens maintained their dominance as a popular writing implement through the mid-century. It wasn’t until the 1960s, as the reliability of the ballpoint pen increased and its price fell, that fountain pen sales in the United States began their long and steady decline. While they are still widely used by students in private schools in England and the rest of Europe, in America the fountain pen is seen more as a collector’s item, a status symbol, or the focal point of a twee’s hobby. However, thanks to the internet’s ability to connect enthusiasts, the fountain pen has enjoyed something of a resurgence in the United States. Today there are countless forums and blogs dedicated to the advantages of this classic writing instrument.

Why write with a fountain pen

Think you might want to tease from your ballpoint pen? Here are a few reasons to try fountain pens:

It feels better Since you don’t have to press down as hard when writing as with a ballpoint pen, writing with the fountain pen version is much easier to handle. It allows longer writing without fatigue. It’s easier to get into the flow when you’re using something that actually flows.

It’s better for the environment. With a ballpoint pen, throw it in the trash once you’ve used all the ink. While you can buy disposable fountain pens, most fountain pens are not meant to be thrown away. When you run out of ink, simply refill the reservoir and you’re back in business.

More economical in the long run. I don’t even want to think about how much money I’ve thrown away or lost in the form of half-used pens. Because of their disposable nature, I’m pretty careless with them. If I lose one, well, I can buy a whole new pack of these.

There’s something about a fountain pen that inspires you to care. This certainly has something to do with the steep price of some models. But the fountain pen’s storied tradition offers an aura of timelessness and durability that encourages the owner to preserve it; it can even become a family heirloom.

The result is that aside from the initial investment in the pen, the only recurring expenses are to buy more ink every now and then. As a result, you save money in the long run with a fountain pen compared to a ballpoint pen.

This makes the cursive handwriting look better. In addition to reducing fatigue, the light touch and fluid hand movements required by a fountain pen make your handwriting look better.

You feel like a gentleman. I’ll admit it – one of the charms of writing with a fountain pen is that it just makes you feel great. There is something about writing with the same tool used by Teddy Roosevelt and Winston Churchill that makes one feel like a true gentleman and scholar.

The anatomy of a fountain pen

The design of the fountain pen is refined and simple. It consists of three main parts: the spring, the lining and the filling system.

sharpen

The nib is the metal tip of the fountain pen that touches the paper. Early fountain pen nibs were made of gold due to the element’s flexibility and resistance to corrosion. However, most modern nibs are made from stainless steel or gold alloys for their strength and durability.

When a nib is pure gold, it is usually plated with a durable metal such as iridium or a metal from the platinum family. Steel nibs already have a hard tip, so it is not necessary to equip them with another metal.

There is a small slit running down the center of the nib that helps bring the ink down the nib by the capillary action mentioned above. You will also find a “vent hole” drilled in the tip of the tip to help bring air back into the container to prevent a vacuum from forming. The vent hole also serves a structural purpose by acting as a stress relief point that helps prevent the tip from cracking with the repeated flexing that occurs during use.

Tips come in a variety of shapes and qualities. The three basic shapes are round, obtuse and italic. Round is the most common shape and makes for a fairly even looking line on paper. Stub and italic nibs are typically used in calligraphy.

Peak grades denote the size of the peak. There are five basic grades: extra fine (XF), fine (F), medium (M), broad (B) and double broad (BB). The most common nib sizes are fine and extra fine.

feeds

The feed is the piece of black plastic (or ebonite for antique pens) that encases the underside of the nib. It may not look like it, but the feed is the most important part of a fountain pen. It provides the path for ink to travel from the reservoir to the nib and for air to fill the reservoir.

Ever since Waterman patented his feed design in 1884, pen manufacturers have strived to develop better and more efficient feeds. In 1941, the Parker Company introduced one of the most notable improvements, adding a “collector” to the feed. In modern fountain pens, the collector is a visible series of grooves or ridges just below the nib. The collector serves as a second reservoir, providing the nib with a good supply of ink while preventing too much ink from spilling out at once.

reservoir or filling systems

The reservoir is the cavity inside the pen that holds the ink. This part has seen the most innovation over the course of the development of the pen. We could devote an entire article to the different types of reservoirs and filling systems you can find on antique fountain pens, but for the purposes of this article we’ll stick with the most common ones you’ll find on modern models:

Cartridge. This is the most common type of reservoir in fountain pens today. A cartridge is a small, sealed, disposable plastic tube that contains the fountain pen’s ink. When a cartridge is empty, simply remove the old cartridge and insert a new one. The main benefit of cartridge reservoirs is convenience. The downside is that you often have to rely on the correct cartridge made for your particular pen. Consequently, your choice of ink will be more limited. Added to this is the cost factor. While cartridges aren’t all that expensive, refilling your pen yourself can save you money in the long run.

Converter. If you don’t like the idea of ​​having to buy new cartridges every time you run out of ink, consider buying a cartridge converter for your fountain pen. A cartridge converter looks a lot like a cartridge and fits most cartridge pens, but it has a filling mechanism that allows you to refill ink when it runs out. The upside is that you can open up to a variety of inks, the downside is convenience; While it’s not difficult to fill your cartridge converter, it’s certainly more of a hassle than simply throwing out an old cartridge and putting in a new one. How to fill a cartridge converter.

Pistons. This filling system relies on a screw mechanism that pulls a piston up the barrel, sucking ink through the tip and into the reservoir. It’s basically a built-in converter. The only downside (if you can call it a downside) to a pen with a piston-loading mechanism is that you can never use cartridges with it. You have to refill it manually each time. How to fill a plunger pen.

The best fountain pens for beginners

If you want to try fountain pens but aren’t ready to shell out $100 for a fancy pen, here are three models to try:

Pilot Uni fountain pen. These are disposable, so you won’t get the “true” fountain pen experience with them. But at $8 for a three-pack, it’s a great way to try fountain pens without a lot of investment. The major downside I’ve found is that the ink feathers on most types of paper, making my handwriting less legible at times.

Lamy Safari. After checking out several fountain pen forums and polling the aficionados among my Twitter followers, it became clear that the Lamy Safari is undoubtedly the most recommended fountain pen for beginners. Priced at ~$20, it’s a great reusable/refillable fountain pen for the man just starting out.

Pilot Metropolitan. Just behind the chorus of recommendations for the Lamy Safari was the Pilot Metropolitan. It’s a sharp looking pen that writes well and only costs $15.

How to write with a fountain pen

Post your cap (or not). Attaching your cap means you put the cap on the end of your pen as you write. The stylus tends to feel more balanced in your hand once you’ve posted it. Of course, some people prefer to write with their cap off. Experiment and find what works for you.

Hold it at the right angle. The pen should form a 40 to 55 degree angle with your writing surface. A fountain pen’s “sweet spot” is usually in this area because the ink flows more easily at these angles. The exception is a ballpoint pen with a round tip; In this case, you want the tip of the tip to point straight up, not twisted to one side.

Use less pressure. You don’t have to press down for the ink to flow like you do with a ballpoint pen. In fact, too much pressure can prevent the ink from flowing properly or damage the nib. Keep your strokes light.

use your arm Most people are “finger typists,” meaning they just move their fingers to write. Writing with your finger tends to put too much pressure on the pen, which rotates it and in turn causes ink flow problems. Instead, focus on using your shoulder and arm more when writing. It will feel weird at first, but this style of writing keeps your tip steady and helps take the pressure off of it.

How to care for your fountain pen

Keep the cap on when the pen is not in use. This prevents the ink from drying on your nib and protects the nib from damage. If you leave your pen unlocked and find that the ink has dried up, you will need to remove the dried ink that is blocking the flow. Soaking the feather in water can often be sufficient. If that doesn’t work, consider flushing your pen completely – repeatedly filling and emptying it with cold water.

Don’t let others borrow your pen. As you use your pen, the tip adapts to your writing style. Lending it to someone else for a long time and applying their own style to it can throw the nib out of balance. If they just need to sign something, let them borrow it; it’s a gentlemanly gesture. If they need to write an essay, lend them a cheap pen.

Flush your pen regularly. It is recommended to flush your fountain pen once a month. It ensures proper ink flow by removing debris in the tip or in the feed. Here’s how you do it.

In addition to rinsing, you may consider soaking your nib in a cup of cold water overnight to remove stubborn ink deposits.

become a fountain pen

This post just scratched the surface of the fountain pen world (see what I did there?). We didn’t even delve into antique fountain pens. Hopefully a true fountain pen fan will be willing to write this article for us. (Nudge, nudge.) If you’re interested in learning more about fountain pens, I highly recommend checking out the following resources:

Richardspens.com. This is THE source for fountain pens on the web. I’ve spent hours reading the in-depth articles he has on every aspect of fountain pens. This site is a must for anyone who wants to learn more about them.

The fountain pen network. A forum for fountain pens. The people there are super helpful with beginners, so if you have a question, ask. They also have lists of groups, meetings, and events dedicated to the fountain pen (yes, I just used fountain pens as a verb), as well as a marketplace where you can buy or trade new fountain pens.

fountain pen. A smaller, more dense forum than the Fountain Pen Network. Ask questions or buy or sell your antique fountain pens.

Fountain pen geeks. Another fountain pen forum.

Tags: writing

We’ve all seen them before and many of us enjoy them on a daily basis, but the question we get asked the most is how do you use a fountain pen in the first place?

With so many different options on the market today, it can be overwhelming if you’re a budding pen enthusiast looking to get your hands a little inky. Where would I even start?

Well, the first step to taking the plunge is to determine what blending mode your pen is using.

Determining your pen’s filling mechanism

Of course, if you’re looking at a fountain pen and don’t know where to start, the easiest way is to ask the sales representative what filling mechanism your pen uses.

But if you’re shy like me and don’t feel like asking, you can tinker around and find out for yourself very easily.

First, place one hand on the barrel and the other hand on the grip area, just above the tip. Twist gently to see if the piece comes loose.

If these two parts don’t separate, it probably means your pen has a built-in filling mechanism. If they twist apart, go ahead and take the pin apart. Make sure no entrails fall out when you do this.

Once inside you may not see anything at all! This is a sign that your pen uses either cartridges or a piston converter.

It may also come with a piston converter already installed, meaning you can use ink from a bottle. The other, less common option we’ve seen is called a squeeze converter. Check out the images below to see which option you see when you unscrew your pen.

Once you’ve determined which method your pen uses, simply click on the links below and jump straight to finding out how to fill your pen:

Built-in filling mechanism

piston filler

These are a bit complicated to manufacture, which is why they are typically seen on more valuable fountain pens such as Montblancs or Montegrappas.

They include internal mechanisms that can suck ink directly into the pen, typically by turning the plunger knob on the back or bottom of the pen. To start, unscrew the piston completely. If it breaks, you have twisted too far! Just kidding, this definitely shouldn’t happen – it’s recommended to stop at the resistance point.

Then simply insert the tip into an ink bottle and twist the plunger in the opposite direction. This draws the precious liquid gold into the internal reservoir by retracting the plunger which also seals it against leakage. You can now wear this white shirt with confidence!

After you’ve filled your pen, you may want to blot it on a cloth to remove the excess ink from the nib, unless you’re happy to get a little messy. Now it’s time to write!

vacuum filler

Used by brands such as Visconti on their top of the range Homo Sapiens and Opera models.

They’re very complex to make, but freakin’ fun to use! First unscrew the knob at the end of the pen completely. You will feel the knob is loose once it is fully unwound.

It might be a little tight, but now you can pull the knob towards you. This pulls the piston up the shaft, creating a negative pressure environment in the chamber of the pen.

Insert the tip into an ink bottle and now push the button all the way back in. It is important to wait 5-10 seconds for the chamber to fill completely with ink.

Then you can twist the knob back into place, and your fancy new pen is ready to manifest your visions!

Crescent Fountain Pen

Used on some Conklin pens. It consists of a crescent-shaped piece of metal that needs to be pushed into the barrel.

It’s a little awkward at first, but super easy once you figure it out. There is usually a piece of plastic that goes under the crescent.

You can turn this piece around until the opening lines up with the crescent, which allows it to be pushed down the barrel. This part prevents you from accidentally discharging ink into your pocket.

When pressed down, the ink sac inside the pen collapses. Then simply insert the nib into your favorite ink bottle, release the crescent shaped piece and the pen will fill with ink.

The crescent moon can also serve as a roll stopper for the crooked desk in your office!

cartridges and converters

cartridge filled

When your pen is filled with a cartridge, you have the easiest task of all!

Simply unscrew the grip from the pen barrel. If you look into the grip area, there is a small piece that sticks out.

The job of this part is to pierce the cartridge to allow the ink to go straight into the pen’s feed, allowing for quick and easy writing.

The main disadvantage of cartridges is that many manufacturers use proprietary cartridges that don’t work with all pens, so your choice of ink colors is pretty limited.

You can get around this on most pens by installing a converter!

Ah, the freedom… now you can use any potion you want!

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Piston converter filled

The quickest and easiest way to use bottled ink, a converter-filled fountain pen has the same installation technique as a cartridge-filled pen.

You must first slide the converter into the grip. Then you should turn the top of the converter so that the internal piston reaches the bottom.

Insert the converter into an ink bottle and turn the plunger back up. Then attach the barrel back to the pin and you’re good to go!

Now you can use black ink, blue ink, pink ink, yellow ink, blood, windex, whatever you want! (just kidding, please don’t use Windex)

Squeeze converter filled

If your pen is already equipped with a squeeze converter, simply press the button on the side, insert the tip into an ink bottle and release the button.

You should release the button slowly to suck the maximum amount of ink into the converter.

Cartridges vs Converters

So why should I choose a cartridge over a converter? There are a couple of reasons. Some converters require long stems that you must twist to move the piston inward.

This means it only contains enough ink to fill the bottom of the unit. With a cartridge, the entire unit is filled with ink, which means you sometimes have twice as much ink in one cartridge as in a converter. If you’re a nerd like me, you’ll probably want a converter, even if it has less ink. Hey, this way you can swap ink colors more often!

Built-in vs. hand-installed mechanisms

Some fountain pen lovers prefer built-in mechanisms because they hold such a large amount of ink. That means you don’t have to keep refilling your pen if you’re a heavy writer. The downside is that these pens tend to be a bit more expensive and they don’t work with ink cartridges, so you’ll have to spend the Starbucks money on ink bottles.

Here are some of our favorite pens of all fill types!

1. Piston filler:

Montblanc 149 – An all-time classic, the Montblanc 149 is a must-have for any serious collector.

– Montegrappa Monte grappa – good enough to be named twice, so that’s good enough for me.

Aurora Optima – noble, elegant ballpoint pen with a little Italian flair.

2. Vacuum filler:

3. Crescent Filler:

– Conklin Mark Twain – well, it’s the only one we know.

4. Cartridge/converter filler:

LAMY Safari or Al-Star – a reliable workhorse for daily use at a reasonable price.

Visconti Breeze – beautiful Italian designs and available in brilliant bright colours.