Pocket Chain For Waistcoat? The 199 New Answer

are named after a watch chain worn by Prince Albert during the Victorian era. Traditionally, this type of watch chain has a bar at one end that is used to attach the chain to a waistcoat buttonhole. The opposite end of the chain features a rotating hook for attaching the watch. The watch is then carried in a waistcoat pocket, with the chain exposed and often adorned with a decorative pendant.

How to Wear a Pocket Watch To wear a pocket watch, use a T-bar chain to attach the watch to a vest, a pants slide bar, or a stud ring for both. Formal attire allows for more complex ways to style the chain and elaborate pocket watches. Casual wear is better suited to sleek, modern chains and watches.

Like the Cubs winning the 2016 World Series, it all comes back.

The vintage-style watch market exploded when Sotheby’s sold a $24 million Patek pocket watch in 2014. Even Apple is in the pocket watch game.

Popularity aside, knowing how to wear a pocket watch is like knowing how to change a tire—every man should know it, even if you rarely do it.

By the end of this article, you will know how to rock a pocket watch anywhere, anytime.

What is a pocket watch? A short story

Pocket watches were invented in Germany in the 16th century. They evolved into the rounded shape and small size we know today in the 1670s, when England’s Charles II popularized waistcoats with small pockets.

Pocket watches then found their way from the waistcoats of aristocrats to the denim pockets of workers in the 1850s to your grandfather’s three-piece suit.

The more practical wristwatch overtook the pocket watch by World War II, but it remains a distinguished, if unique, men’s accessory today.

The Five Types of Pocket Watches

open face

The open pocket watch is just a dial without a cover, so it is the fastest and easiest to read. This makes it the path of least resistance, but also the most vulnerable.

It’s almost as handy as a watch, but don’t wear it to your next corporate rugby match.

full hunter

The full hunter pocket watch has a cover over the dial that makes it more durable. The cover opens with a button on the crown.

The Full Hunter is quintessential, and it’s the design you often see in BBC dramas.

Half Hunter

The Half Hunter is similar in design to the Full Hunter but with a window on the lid so you don’t have to open it to read the time.

double hunter

The aptly named Dual Hunter has two covers – one on the front that protects the dial and one on the back that you can also open to view the mechanical skeleton or heartbeat.

Double Half Hunter

The double half fighter combines all of the above designs: a front cover with a window and a rear cover, like the double fighter. This time, the back cover also has a window, so you can see the mechanical skeleton or heartbeat without opening it.

The double half-hunter is a full-fledged show. It’s like a music box for men (don’t let that put you off. Isn’t a camping trip just a sleepover for men?)

The four types of bag chains

Albert T Bar

One end of this chain has a T-bar that you put in a buttonhole. The other end attaches to the pocket watch, which you put in your vest pocket.

This chain is used on waistcoats, jackets and waistcoats – after all it was named after Queen Victoria’s husband.

bolt ring

One end of this chain has a stud ring that you hook onto a buttonhole of a waistcoat or waistcoat. The other end of the chain attaches to the watch, which fits in a jacket or vest pocket.

You can also attach the stud ring to a belt loop with the watch in your pocket.

Belt Bar Gliders

One end of this chain is a clip-like contraption that you slip over your belt or the top of your waistband, and the other end attaches to your watch, which fits in your pocket.

Watch Fob Chain

The watch charm is an ornament that you chain to your watch. You would then plug in the watch and leave the keychain hanging out as an accessory.

This is for style only. It does not secure the pocket watch to you. If anything, it makes it more vulnerable.

What you need to wear a pocket watch

pocket watch of your choice

Your choice of chain

The right outfit (read more!)

Ways to wear a pocket watch

With a vest

There are more ways to wear a pocket watch with a vest than there are movies in the Marvel Cinematic Universe. Some styles are only suitable for certain situations, so pay attention gentlemen.

They use either the Albert T-Bar or the Bolt Ring.

If you are right-handed, the watch fits in your left vest pocket. Left, put it in your right pocket. This frees your dominant hand, just like a wristwatch.

Place the fastening end of the chain in the buttonhole of your choice, except for the bottom buttonhole, which is often left open.

Remember:

The higher you place the clasp, the more the chain appears and the more meaningful it becomes. The more the chain is visible, the more important it is that it matches your jacket buttons when it comes to metal statement buttons.

The most common is attached to the bottom buttons. That was originally considered more of a gentleman, but that’s not as relevant today.

The double Albert style

With the double Albert, you need to place the T-bar clasp in the middle of the chain, not at the end.

Instead of letting the chain links dangle from the buttonhole to just one side of the vest, the chain dangles on both sides like a W.

Attach your watch to one end and place it in the pocket of your non-dominant hand side. Attach another object, perhaps your keys or a money clip, to the other end and slip it into the pocket on the side of your dominant hand.

The double Albert stands out as a statement look. Conventional wisdom has it that it’s only suitable for formal occasions, but I think it’s also suitable for fashionable events.

Avoid double for work cocktails, but consider it for cocktail attire situations that encourage creativity (e.g. gallery openings or hip bars). Just make sure it’s your only statement piece; Keep the rest of the outfit muted and avoid flashy patterns so you don’t end up looking too costumed.

The double Albert is a symmetrical look, so only wear it with symmetrical vests. I’m talking about thoughtful breaking of the rules, but if you’re wearing a double Albert on an asymmetric vest, you might as well tie a pocket watch around your head.

Using a watch fob

Watch pendants are most often paired with waistcoats or smart waistcoats.

Hanging the watch pendant from the buttonhole is called a drop.

With a single Albert, you can demi-drop and hang the fob in the center of the chain draped over the side of your vest.

Best pocket watch to wear with a vest

The highly versatile Gotham Double Cover pocket watch style pairs well with most vest looks.

The slimmer a pocket watch is, the more formal it tends to be. However, if you’re looking for a pocket watch that’s minimalist enough to work with casual vests but classy enough to work with dressy vests, the Gotham is for you.

Without vest

There are two acceptable ways to carry your pocket watch without a vest: in your pants pocket or in the front pocket of your jacket or blazer.

If you carry your pocket watch in your pocket, you can use a stud ring, belt slider, or attach it to a watch fob and hang it from your pocket.

To clip a pocket watch to a jacket or blazer, slip the watch into your breast pocket and clip the clasp behind the lapels to the lapel pin.

If you’re wearing a casual sports coat (let’s say you’re at a hockey game, but it’s a special occasion so you and the boys have a boxing suit), I recommend going with the Bolt Ring instead of the sleek Albert T-Bar.

The same applies to informal work events.

If you combine the watch chain on the lapel with a bright pocket square, it will end up looking too much like the rabbit from Alice in Wonderland. You can go from comic bunny to FDR with a simple, muted suit and simple pocket square.

Best pocket watch to wear without a vest

The noble Stührling Reserve Vintage has a subtle color palette that is balanced by a complicated mechanism. Without a vest, your outfit has fewer moving parts and can take on that pop of complexity.

The Stuhrling goes well with either a simple watch fob hanging from your jeans pocket or a high quality chain hanging from your jacket lapel.

With evening wear

A tuxedo or classic solid color suit is a simple blank canvas to have fun with a pocket watch.

This is the time to go crazy with all those double Alberts, double half Hunters and extravagant watch fobs that we tiptoe around in other contexts.

The Albert T-Bar is your quarterback when it comes to formal wear. A silver or stainless steel chain is more modern, while a gold chain is considered more classic.

Thinner pocket watches are more suitable for evening events, as the breast pockets of waistcoats and jackets are rather small. Artistic pocket watches are also invited to this party.

Feel free to go the subtle route if the excessive stuff isn’t for you. Just remember that formal wear is the most appropriate context to channel your inner Downton Abbey.

Best pocket watch to wear with formal wear

The Audemars Piguet is the Amal Clooney of pocket watches.

It’s more than just a strikingly beautiful face; It’s one of the smartest pocket watch designs out there. It’s elegant, but it’s also gorgeous, so it might not be for you if you don’t like attracting attention.

With casual wear

Since people associate pocket watches with old-world sophistication, there are some rules for wearing a pocket watch casually.

The most important thing is: stick to modern or simple models.

For purely casual looks, I recommend leaving the pocket watch in your pocket. You can wear the watch in a vest or sport coat for smart casual outfits, just avoid the Albert T-Bar and fancy pocket watches.

Heavier chains and leather straps look sturdier and pair well with jeans. If you’re going for casual but premium, the leather adds an aesthetic akin to a simple leather messenger bag.

Opt for smaller, subtle watch charms when dressing casually. Avoid watch fobs completely if you wear your pocket watch in a vest or jacket.

Some men wear charms that show allegiances or memberships, like wearing a class ring or a sports team phone case. This is perfectly acceptable for casual looks.

Finally, you can wear a more embellished watch and pocket watch as a “fashion casual” look. This is the equivalent of your lady dressing casually but carrying a Chanel bag.

However, be careful if you try this! Stick to an extremely simple outfit from head to toe.

Best pocket watch to wear with casual wear

With its sleek gun-tone case and large and bold numbers on a black dial, the Gotham Railroad is sure to pair with casual outfits.

Importantly, it features a quality spring ring clasp, meaning it stays snug and secure in your bag.

Be bold, never regular

Whether you inherited an heirloom from your grandfather or have a keen interest in exploring the pocket watch as an accessory, it’s important that you know at least the basics of how to wear one.

Maybe one day they will become a style must-have. Maybe your son or son-to-be wants one and he needs guidance.

It’s a classic male skill, so it’s a must. Did you find this tutorial helpful? Then share this article and follow us on Instagram for more style tips!

frequently asked Questions

What button does a pocket watch go to? The button can be attached to any buttonhole of a waistcoat or waistcoat except for the bottom button. The higher you choose the button, the more of the chain becomes visible and the more of a statement piece it becomes. How to wear a pocket watch casually? The easiest way to wear a pocket watch casually is in your pocket with a simple watch charm, belt slider, or stud ring with a heavy, sturdy chain. Modern styles look more casual than vintage styles. Can you wear a pocket watch without a vest? Yes, there are two options: you can put the pocket watch in your pocket and clip it to your pants with a belt slider or stud ring, or you can clip it to your jacket or blazer by slipping it into your breast pocket and clip it behind the lapel on the lapel pin. Does Rolex make pocket watches? No, Rolex stopped making pocket watches in the 1970s and they were never known for it. The company played a major role in replacing pocket watches with wristwatches. Are pocket watches still trendy? They are less common than wristwatches, but gained popularity in the 2010s. They are not trendy, but are still considered a unique statement piece for style enthusiasts.

The Albert style pocket watch chain (also known as the “single Albert” chain), like the Double Albert, is named after Prince Albert (1819-1861), husband of Britain’s Queen Victoria. In addition to the chain that attaches to the watch, the Albert style has an additional section of chain that serves as a “tear drop” to attach another item such as a pendant, pendant, or locket. This drop can be connected at different points along the main chain and vary in length depending on the chain style. Although they come in a variety of lengths, the chains are meant to be worn draped, not pulled.

Note: Although the watches are shown half out of the case in the photos below, this is only to show how the chain is attached to the watch. Pocket watches should be worn fully pocketed, ideally in a velvet or thin leather pouch for protection. [Click on any of the following photos for an enlarged view]

Spring rings: The spring ring is the simplest way to attach the pocket watch chain to the wearer’s garment. It is a more modern form of connection than the T-Bar and has a wide range of uses. Larger rings can be attached to a buttonhole (on a vest or shirt), can be clipped around the belt loop of a pair of jeans or pants, or can be used to attach the chain to itself after it has been looped around the wearer’s belt . Some of the larger spring rings feature a “chain guard,” a protrusion that prevents the ring from rotating in the buttonhole or is used to keep different attachments on the ring separate. Smaller rings, typically found on lighter chains, can be fastened around the thread behind a button. This method of attachment emulates a T-bar style of gauge with the added security provided by the spring ring clasp.

T-strap: The T-strap, passed through a buttonhole, is the earliest form of connection between the pocket watch chain and the wearer’s waistcoat or shirt; It predated the spring ring and various clips used later. Fancy or embellished t-bars are typically worn inside out (to reveal and display the t-bars, as shown below); Standard T-bars are usually worn inside out (so they are not visible).

Lobster Clasps & Belt Clips: The lobster clasp is a very modern form of chain connection for pocket watches, having been introduced long after the T-bar, spring ring and other belt clips. This type of clip is most commonly used to attach the chain to a belt loop as shown in the first photo. Belt clips are also used to attach pocket watch chains. The second photo here shows a “press-fit” clip introduced in the mid-20th century; This will suspend the chain similar to finding a lobster claw.

Pocket watch chains have also found use among women; In the 1990s, more ladies began wearing Albert (and double Albert) style chains as necklaces, using pendants, lockets, and other jewelry attached to the “tears” as pendants. The chain fastens around the wearer’s neck by connecting the rotating clasp (usually used to attach a watch or key ring) to another section of the chain. Generally, chains worn this way should be at least 15 inches long for a short choker style and 16 inches or longer for a looser necklace. Watches worn as pendants for this style should be small and are usually worn both for decoration and to keep time.

Usage for Ladies (Spring Rings & T-Bars): The first photo below shows a locket at the end of the chain and a small pocket knife attached to the chain’s spring ring. The second photo below shows a medallion on the drop and the T-Bar as part of the jewelry.

The Shelby family has taken over our screens and our closets thanks to the hit TV show Peaky Blinders. We’ve been addicted to this gritty British drama since it first released in 2013, and we’re not ashamed to admit we’re a bit plagued by Tommy Shelby’s wardrobe envy.

Getting the Peaky Blinders look isn’t just about donning a three-piece suit and flat cap and perfecting your best Brummie accent, it’s about the little details that make Shelby & Co such formidable forces. In every episode we’ve been mesmerized by the series’ accessories, from the effortlessly stylish pocket squares to Alfie Solomon’s iconic top hat, but we’re particularly keen on the glittery chains we’ve spotted slipping out of the pockets of the Shelby men…

In this blog we will look at Peaky Blinders inspired fashion, how to get the look and how to top it off with one of our pocket watches.

Right guys, on behalf of the Peaky Blinders… let’s get to work.

The suit

You won’t get away with just any old suit for a Peaky Blinders-inspired look. You need to look for a vintage-inspired fabric like herringbone tweed that evokes the classic Shelby look. A three-piece suit with matching waistcoat (for that all-important pocket watch) should be paired with a white shirt with a soft, rounded collar. Also known as the “club collar,” this softer edge adds a vintage twist to your look while staying modern with a slim fit. Pants should be slightly cropped to show off your footwear (more on that later…) and slim fit.

The shoes

Shoes are an important part of the Peaky Blinder style, and a pair of chunky-soled work boots is a great choice. Though you might not trudge through factories and cobbled streets, the boots create an authentic look framed by your shorts. If you’re going to a more formal occasion, a pair of flat black brogues will work just as well.

The accessories

No self-respecting Peaky Blinder can be seen without the iconic flat cap. This adds that extra bit of heritage to your look and will look great whether you’re going all peaky or just want to add a touch of style to your wardrobe. A long coat adds a touch of elegant drama to your attire, look for muted tones that complement rather than overpower your suit. For the finishing touch, you can incorporate elements like suspenders, bow ties, and pocket squares into your ensemble.

The pocket watch

Whether you’re more Tommy, Arthur, Michael or John, one thing is certain – no Peaky Blinder is seen at a formal event without their trusty pocket watch. The lightning bolt of the T-Bar chain adds that extra bit of power and confidence to the Peaky Blinders look and we’ve handpicked a selection of our pocket watches that embody this era perfectly.

Peaky Blinder pocket watches

The attention to detail on this beautiful Greenwich pocket watch leads us to believe it’s the right fit for Tommy Shelby. The chrome plated case has a viewing window on the front and a heartbeat window on the back, giving it that vintage feel that would pair perfectly with a smart suit.

Keep it sleek, simple and classic with this chrome plated hunter pocket watch. Part of the Jean Pierre collection, this watch features black Roman numerals and a date window, perfectly blending vintage style and modern advancement – just like the Shelby family.

Many of the Peaky Blinders can be seen with a gold chain on their waistcoat and this Limit exclusive gold plated Volljäger watch is a fantastic choice. The white dial has Roman numerals, bold baton markers and comes with a matching gold T-bar sling chain.

Explore our full range of pocket watches and create your own Peaky Blinders inspired look with our selection of vintage and contemporary designs. We also have a selection of pocket watch chains and cases perfect for keeping your watch safe and sound.

Make sure to share your Peaky Blinder style with us on Facebook!

Watch made to be carried in a pocket

This article is about the wearable watch. For the album by Dave Grohl, see Pocketwatch (album)

“Watch Chain” redirects here. For the succulent, see Crassula muscosa

Savonette with cathedral hands and luminous dial by Thos. Russell & Son (probably in the 1920s)

Gold pocket watch with Savonnet and watch chain

Watches, supposedly called Nuremberg Eggs, worn on chains around the neck. B. created by pocket watches, allegedly so called, worn on chains around the neck. Example by Peter Henlein, 1510, Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nuremberg.

X-ray video of a pocket stopwatch with clearly visible mechanics of the watch. The video was recorded at 10 X-ray frames per second.

A pocket watch (or pocket watch) is a watch intended to be carried in a pocket, as opposed to a wristwatch, which attaches to the wrist.

They were the most common type of watch from their development in the 16th century until wristwatches became popular after World War I, in which a transitional design, trench watches, were used by the military. Pocket watches generally have an attached chain that allows them to be attached to a vest, lapel, or belt loop and to prevent them from falling off. Watches were also attached to a short leather strap or pendant when a long chain would have been cumbersome or likely to snag on things. This keychain could also offer a protective flap over the face and crystal. Women’s watches were usually of this form, with a watch fob that was decorative rather than protective. Chains were often embellished with a silver or enamel pendant, often bearing the crest of a club or society, also known by association as a fob. Supposedly practical gadgets such as a watch winding key, a Vesta case or a cigar cutter also appeared on watch chains, albeit mostly in an exaggeratedly ornate style. Also common are fasteners designed to be slipped through a buttonhole and worn inside a jacket or waistcoat, this style being commonly associated with and named for train attendants.

An early reference to the pocket watch is found in a letter in November 1462 from the Italian watchmaker Bartholomäus Manfredi to the Marchese di Mantova Federico Gonzaga, where he offers him a ‘pocket watch’ better than that of the Duke of Modena. Spring clocks appeared in Italy and Germany towards the end of the 15th century. Peter Henlein, a master locksmith from Nuremberg, regularly produced pocket watches from 1526 onwards. After that, pocket watch manufacturing spread to the rest of Europe during the 16th century. Early clocks only had an hour hand, the minute hand appeared in the late 17th century.[1][2]

history [edit]

Antique pocket watch movement with worm gear from the 17th century

A French pocket watch from the 1920s

The first worn timepieces made in 16th-century Europe were a transitional size between clocks and wristwatches. These “watches” were attached to clothing or worn around the neck on a chain. They were heavy, drum-shaped brass cylinders, several inches in diameter, engraved and decorated. They only had an hour hand. The dial was not covered with glass, but usually had a hinged brass cover, often decoratively pierced with gratings to allow the time to be read without opening. Clockwork was made of iron or steel and held together with conical pins and wedges until after 1550 screws were used. Many of the movements included striking or alarm mechanisms. The shape later evolved into a rounded shape; these were later called Nuremberg eggs. Even later in the century there was a trend towards unusually shaped clocks, and clocks in the shape of books, animals, fruits, stars, flowers, insects, crosses and even skulls (skull clocks) were produced.

Styles changed in the 17th century and men began carrying watches in pockets rather than as pendants (the women’s watch remained a pendant into the 20th century).[4] This is said to have happened in 1675 when Charles II of England introduced West.[6] To fit in pockets, their shape evolved into the typical pocket watch shape, rounded and flattened with no sharp edges. From around 1610 glass was used to cover the dial. Watch fobs began to be used, the name of which comes from the German word fuppe, a small bag. The watch was wound and also adjusted by opening the caseback and inserting a key into a square shaft and turning.

High resolution image of a silver hallmarked movement with precise surface finishing

Wooden pocket watch XIX-XX. Russian postage stamp, 2010

Watches were luxury items up until the second half of the 18th century; As an indication of how highly valued they were, 18th-century English newspapers often carried advertisements offering rewards of between one and five guineas only for information that might lead to the recovery of stolen watches. [citation needed] By the late 1700s, however, clocks (although still largely hand-made) were becoming more common; Special cheap clocks were made for sale to seafarers, with crude but colorful paintings of maritime scenes on the dials.

Up until the 1720s, almost all movements were based on the verge escapement, which had been developed for large public clocks in the 14th century. This type of escapement involved a high level of friction and did not contain any jewelry to protect the contact surfaces from wear. As a result, a verge clock could rarely achieve a high standard of accuracy. (Surviving examples [citation needed] mostly run very fast, often gaining an hour a day or more.) The first widespread improvement was the cylinder escapement, developed by the Abbé de Hautefeuille in the early 18th century and applied by the English manufacturer George Graham . Then, towards the end of the 18th century, the anchor escapement (invented by Thomas Mudge in 1755) was made in limited editions by a handful of makers including Josiah Emery (a Swiss based in London) and Abraham-Louis Breguet. This would allow a household clock to keep time to one minute per day. Lever clocks became common after about 1820, and this type is still used in most mechanical clocks today.

In 1857, the American Watch Company of Waltham, Massachusetts introduced the Waltham Model 57, the first model with interchangeable parts. This reduces manufacturing and repair costs. Most Model 57 pocket watches were in coin silver (“One Nine Fine”), a 90% pure silver alloy commonly used in dollar coins, slightly less pure than British (92.5%) sterling silver, both of which avoided the higher purity other types of silver to make circulation coins and other silver commodities more durable under heavy use.

Watch manufacture was streamlined; the Japy family of Schaffhausen, Switzerland, was at the forefront, and soon after, the newborn American watchmaking industry developed many new machines, allowing the American Watch Company (later known as Waltham) to produce more than 50,000 reliable timepieces by 1865 each year. This development ousted the Swiss from their dominant position at the cheaper end of the market, forcing them to improve the quality of their products and instead establish themselves as leaders in precision and accuracy.

Railroad use in the United States[edit]

The rise of the railroad in the latter half of the 19th century led to the widespread use of pocket watches. A famous train wreck on the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway in Kipton, Ohio, occurred on April 19, 1891, when one of the engineers’ clocks stopped for four minutes. Railroad officials hired Webb C. Ball as their chief time inspector to establish standards of precision and a reliable clock testing system for railroad chronometers. This led to the introduction of strict standards for pocket watches used on the railways in 1893. These railroad quality pocket watches, as they were colloquially known, had to meet the General Railroad Timepiece Standards adopted by nearly all railroads in 1893. Some of these standards are:

…open, size 16 or 18, have at least 17 jewels, are set to at least five positions, keep time accurate to within 30 seconds per week, set to temperatures from 34°F (1°C) to 100°F (38 °C), have a double roller, steel escape wheel, anchor set, regulator, winding stem at 12 o’clock and have bold black Arabic numerals on a white dial with black hands.

Types of pocket watches [ edit ]

There are two main types of pocket watch, the hunter pocket watch and the open face pocket watch.

Open clocks[ edit ]

c. 1876 ​​Lepine pocket watch by Polish watchmaker Franciszek Czapek

In an open face or Lépine [8] watch, the case lacks a metal cover to protect the crystal. It is typical of an open face watch that the fob is at 12 o’clock and the second hand dial is at 6 o’clock. Occasionally a movement intended for a hunting case (with winding stem at 3 o’clock and sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock) will have an open case. Such a watch is known as a “Sidewinder”. Alternatively, such a movement can be equipped with a so-called conversion dial, which shifts the winding stem to 12 o’clock and the small seconds to 3 o’clock. After 1908, clocks registered for railway service had to be boxed in open cases with the winding stem at 12:00.

Hunter Case Watches [ edit ]

A hunter pocket watch is a case with a circular metal lid or cover with spring hinges that encloses the dial and glass, protecting them from dust, scratches, and other damage or debris. The name originated in England, where “fox hunters found it convenient to be able to open their watch and read the time with one hand while holding the bridle of their ‘hunter’ (horse) with the other hand”.[9] Due to its resemblance to a round bar of soap, it is also known as “Savonnette”, after the French word for soap (savon).

Most antique and classic hunter watches have the cover hinges at the 9 o’clock position and the stem, crown and bail of the watch at the 3 o’clock position. Modern hunter pocket watches typically have the hinges for the cover at 6 o’clock and the stem, crown and shackle at 12 o’clock, as in open-face watches. In both types of watch cases, the seconds hand dial was always at the 6 o’clock position. A hunter pocket watch with spring ring chain is shown at the top of this page.

An intermediate type, known as a half-hunter (or semi-hunter), is a case style in which the outer lid has a glass panel or hole in the center that reveals the hands. The hours are marked on the outer lid itself, often in blue enamel; With this type of case, you can read the time without opening the lid.

Types of watch movements[edit]

Key wind, key set movements[ edit ]

The very first pocket watches, from their creation in the 16th century to the third quarter of the 19th century, had key winding and key movements. A clock key was necessary to wind the clock and set the time. This was usually done by opening the case back and slipping the key onto the winding stem (which was fitted above the watch’s winding wheel to wind the mainspring), or slipping the key onto the setting stem, which connected to the minute-wheel and turned the hands . Some watches of this period had the setting pin on the face of the watch, requiring the removal of the glass and bezel to set the time. Watch keys are the origin of the class key, common paraphernalia for American high school and college degrees.

Many key-wound movements use a fusee to improve isochronism. The fusee is a specially cut conical pulley attached to the barrel with a fine chain. When the spring is fully wound (and its torque is at its highest), the entire length of the chain is wrapped around the worm and the force of the mainspring is applied to the smallest diameter section of the worm’s cone. As the spring relaxes and its torque decreases, the chain winds back onto the mainspring barrel and pulls on a progressively larger diameter section of the fusee. This provides a more consistent torque on the movement, resulting in a more consistent balance amplitude and better isochronism. A fusee is a practical necessity in watches with a verge escapement, and can also offer significant advantages in a lever escapement and other high-precision types of escapements (Hamilton’s WWII-era Model 21 Chronometer used a fusee in combination with a click escapement).

Keywind watches are also commonly seen with conventional barrel barrels and other types of spring barrels, particularly in American watchmaking.

Stem Wind, Stem Set Movements[edit]

The C. The Omega pocket watch from 1950 has a verge-wound movement with verge set.

Movement from a 1914 Hamilton 992 Railroad pocket watch

Invented by Adrien Philippe in 1842 and commercialized by Patek Philippe & Co. in the 1850s, the verge-wind and verge-set movement eliminated the watch key required to operate any pocket watch up to that point. The first crown-wound and crown-wound pocket watches were sold during the Great Exhibition in London in 1851, and the first owners of this new type of watch were Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Verge-wind and verge-set movements are the most common type of movement found in both vintage and modern pocket watches.

The general transition to the use of verge-wound, verge-set clocks occurred at about the same time as the end of manufacture and use of the snail clock. The safety chain driven timing has been replaced with a better quality spring steel mainspring (commonly known as a “going barrel”), allowing for a smoother power delivery to the escape mechanism. The balance wheel and balance spring provide a separate function: to regulate the timing (or escape) of the movement. [citation required] [11]

winch, lever sets [ edit ]

Compulsory for all railway watches after about 1908, this type of pocket watch was adjusted by opening the glass and bezel and pulling out the adjustment lever (most hunter cases have levers that are accessible without removing the glass or bezel), which was generally found at either the 10 or 2 o’clock position on open face watches and at 5 o’clock on hunting case watches. Once the lever was pulled out, the crown could be rotated to set the time. The lever was then pushed back in and the glass and bezel were closed back over the dial. This method of setting the time in pocket watches was favored by American and Canadian railroads because lever-set watches make accidental time changes impossible. After 1908, new clocks entering service on American railroads generally required lever adjustment.

Stem wind, pin set moves[edit]

Similar to lever movements, these pocket watches had a small pin or button next to the watch stem that had to be pressed before turning the crown to set the time and releasing the pin when the correct time was set. This style of watch is sometimes referred to as a “nail set” because the adjustment button must be pressed with a fingernail.

Custom movements[edit]

Waltham Model 1899 pocket watch movement

Pocket watch movements are occasionally engraved with the word “Adjusted” or “Adjusted to n positions”. That means the watch has been set to show the time in a variety of positions and conditions. There are eight possible customizations:

dial in

Dial down

trailer on

trailer below

trailer left

trailer on the right

Temperature (from 34 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit)

Isochronism (the watch’s ability to keep time regardless of the tension of the mainspring)

Positional adjustments are achieved by carefully balancing (ensuring even weight distribution) the balance-spring system, as well as carefully controlling the shape and polishing of the balance-pivots. All of this works to balance the effect of gravity on the watch in different positions. Positional adjustments are achieved through careful adjustment of each of these factors, provided by repeated trials on a timing machine. Thus, adjusting a watch to its position requires many man-hours, increasing the cost of the watch. Mid-range watches were commonly set to 3 positions (dial up, dial down, pendant up), while high-end watches were commonly set to 5 positions (dial up, dial down, stem up, stem left, stem right) or even all 6 positions have been adjusted. Railway clocks had to be set to 5 positions after 1908. Before that time, 3 positions was the general requirement.

Early clocks used a solid steel balance wheel. As the temperature increased, the fixed balance wheel enlarged, changing the moment of inertia and altering the watch’s time setting. In addition, the spiral spring would lengthen and reduce its spring constant. This problem was initially solved by using the balance scale. The compensation balance consisted of a steel ring placed between a brass ring. These rings were then split in two places. The balance wheel would, in theory at least, actually shrink when heated to compensate for the elongation of the hairspring. By carefully adjusting the placement of the balance wheel screws (brass or gold screws in the rim of the balance wheel), a watch could be set to keep time consistent in both hot (100°F) and cold (32°C) temperatures. Unfortunately, a watch set this way would run slowly at temperatures between these two. The problem was completely solved by using special alloys for the balance wheel and hairspring, which were practically immune to thermal expansion. Such an alloy is used in Hamilton’s 992E and 992B.

Isochronism was occasionally improved through the use of a stopping mechanism, a system designed to allow the mainspring to operate only within its middle (most consistent) range. The most common method of achieving isochronism is to use the Breguet hairspring, which places part of the outermost turn of the hairspring in a different plane than the rest of the nib. This allows the spiral to “breathe” more evenly and symmetrically. There are two types of overcoiling – gradual overcoiling and Z-bending. The gradual overcoming is achieved by imposing on the spiral two gradual turns that form the rise to the second level over half the circumference; and the Z-bend does this by imposing two kinks at complementary 45 degree angles, thereby achieving a rise to the second level in about three spring section heights. The second method is performed for aesthetic reasons and is much more difficult to perform. Due to the difficulty of forming an override, modern clocks often use a slightly less effective “dogleg” that uses a series of sharp (in-plane) bends to place part of the outermost coil out of the way of the rest of the spring.

Decline in popularity[edit] [12] An example of the decline and resurgence of the pocket watch. A ‘Hebdomas’ 8-day pocket watch, circa 1920, Musée d’Horlogerie of Le Locle, Switzerland. Patented in 1889, discontinued for a few years and reintroduced in 1968, it’s still in production. An example of the decline and resurgence of the pocket watch.

Colibri pocket watch made in the mid 1990’s. The case back has an additional hinged lid that folds out to allow the watch to stand upright on a table.

Pocket watches are unusual these days and have been replaced by wristwatches and smartphones. However, until the early 20th century, the pocket watch remained prevalent among men, while the wristwatch was considered feminine and unmasculine. In men’s fashion, pocket watches gave way to wristwatches around the time of World War I, when officers in the field began to appreciate that a watch worn on the wrist was more accessible than one kept in a pocket.[13] A watch with a transitional design, combining features of pocket watches and modern wristwatches, was called a “trench watch” or “bracelet”. The more accurate pocket watches continued to be widely used on the railroad, even as their popularity waned elsewhere.

The widespread use of pocket watches in a professional setting finally ended around 1943. [citation needed] The British military’s Royal Navy distributed to their sailors Waltham pocket watches, which were nine-jewel movements with black dials and radium-coated numerals are to be visible in the dark in anticipation of the eventual D-Day invasion. [citation required]

For a few years in the late 1970’s and 1980’s men’s three piece suits returned to fashion and this led to a small resurgence in pocket watches as some men actually used the vest pocket for its original purpose. Some watch companies continue to make pocket watches. Since waistcoats are long out of fashion as part of formal business attire (in the US), the only place available to carry a watch is in a pants pocket. The recent advent of cellular phones and other devices worn on the waist has reduced the desirability of carrying an additional item in the same location, particularly since such handheld devices typically have a timekeeping function themselves.

In some countries, a gold-cased pocket watch is traditionally given to an employee upon retirement.[14]

The pocket watch has regained popularity in the steampunk subcultural movement, which encompasses the arts and fashions of the Victorian era when pocket watches were almost ubiquitous.[15]

The most complicated pocket watches[ edit ]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

Bibliography[edit]

Milham, Willis I (1945), Time and Timepieces, New York: MacMillan, ISBN 0-7808-0008-7 .

Imagine finally not having to listen to church bells to know what time it is. Excitement must have been the feeling when the first pocket watch was pulled out of the pocket. The whole village in silent awe… and then a mad rush to the local store to get one.

The pocket watch – or the world’s first wearable tech game changer – was first invented in 1510 by Peter Henlein in Germany. The pocket watch shape we know and love was refined in the 17th century with the introduction of West (thanks, Charles II). This round, flat shape could be easily slipped into a pocket and was free of sharp edges that would damage fabric.

The term pocket watch was also coined during this time. Fob comes from the Low German dialect word “fuppe” for a small bag. Today, fob refers to the pocket that a watch slips into, the chain or band that attaches to a pocket watch, or the actual watch that hangs from the chain.

For most pocket watch connoisseurs, watch fob refers to the chain or band attached to a pocket watch and is usually shorter than a watch chain.

Whether you call it a watch pendant or a pocket watch, the story is the same. When World War I began, the wristwatch took over and the pocket watch got stuck in the pockets of history. That is… until chic dressers like you decided to give them a try.

Pocket watches are a special, timeless accessory that is perfect for many occasions and makes the ideal meaningful gift. But how do you wear a pocket watch? Wearing pocket watches is a kind of lost art and many people today wear them in impromptu ways, some even wearing them around their necks like a charm or pendant. Now we are not saying that this way of wearing a pocket watch is wrong because pocket watches are personal things meant to express the individual. But here are 6 traditional ways to wear a pocket watch.

Essentially, everything revolves around the different ways of wearing a pocket watch around Prince Albert and the different ways of wearing his pocket watch. Since then, a few other additional styles have evolved. For this reason the different styles are referred to as “Albert” and in general the term “Alberts” refers to a traditional Albert pocket watch chain.

1. Double Albert

The Double Albert is perhaps the most well-known and traditional way to wear a pocket watch. The pocket watch is placed in a pocket and the chain is passed through the adjacent vest pocket, across the vest pocket and into the opposite pocket. Typically weighted by a key fob or simply attached to the bag with a clasp or even weighted simply by the T-bar at the end of the chain.

2. Double Albert with a drop

The Double Albert with Drop is just like the standard Double Albert but with the addition of a drop. This “drop” is basically a pendant or keychain popularized by Prince Albert and typically comes in the form of a coin. Here the fob attaches to the specially constructed extra chain that falls off the vest button.

3. Fob Drops

The Fob Drop from simply fob is a very simple and elegant way to wear the pocket watch. You simply attach a coin or charm shaped charm to match your suit and/or pocket watch to the end of a plain pocket watch chain. Then simply slip your pocket watch into your vest pocket and leave a small piece of the chain and pendant hanging outside the pocket.

4. Single Albert

The Single Albert is perhaps the most common way to wear a pocket watch today. It doesn’t require a fob or keychain (which many see as overkill) and is easy to achieve. Simply attach the end of the pocket watch chain to the adjacent waistcoat button, buckle the waistcoat and slip your pocket watch into your pocket. job done!

5. Single Albert with drops

The Single Albert with Drop combines the simplicity of the Single Albert and the sophistication of the “Drop”. This look can be achieved with a special plain Albert chain that has an extra piece of chain after the T-bar. Or it can also be achieved with a standard chain by simply wrapping the chain around the center of the waistcoat button. Close the vest and then attach the pendant to the end of the chain. The pocket watch is of course in the pocket.

6. Single Albert with half drop

Last but not least the single Albert with half a drop. “Half drop” here means that the fob hangs halfway over the single Albert chain. This can be accomplished in two ways depending on the clasp on the key fob. Either by threading the chain through the pendant first and then attaching it like a single Albert. Or if the clasp allows but just clip it onto the key fob after setting up a single Albert chain.

Of course, no pocket watch look is complete without a three-piece suit to match the occasion. Although pocket watches can be worn casually with jeans, we highly recommend a tweed suit for that traditional look. For a wide range of British tweed suiting, we recommend our friends over at Abitto.

That’s it! These are the six ways you can wear a pocket watch. There may be other possibilities that are not known to us. If so, please contact us and let us know. We hope you found this article useful, if so please share it on social media using the share links on the page.

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While there’s no denying that a pocket watch looks great paired with a three-piece suit, it’s probably fair to say that most of the style’s appeal lies in its vintage mystique.

Pocket watches, which peaked in popularity in the 19th century, evoke the romance of the Victorian era – known for its great inventions and revolutionary changes.

Back then, whether rich or poor, a pocket watch was a treasured family heirloom; proudly passed down from generation to generation, with all the priceless sentimental value.

Single or double Albert?

Pocket watches are usually worn with what is called an Albert chain. Named after Prince Albert, it’s a simple metal chain with a T-bar at one end that fastens through a buttonhole.

Fans of Tommy Shelby, played by Cillian Murphy, might be convinced to follow his example and go for the single Albert – attaching your pocket watch to a single chain and carrying your watch in the left pocket of your vest.

See how we designed this beautiful rose gold-tone Tissot Lepine mechanical pocket watch.

Imagine finally not having to listen to church bells to know what time it is. Excitement must have been the feeling when the first pocket watch was pulled out of the pocket. The whole village in silent awe… and then a mad rush to the local store to get one.

The pocket watch – or the world’s first wearable tech game changer – was first invented in 1510 by Peter Henlein in Germany. The pocket watch shape we know and love was refined in the 17th century with the introduction of West (thanks, Charles II). This round, flat shape could be easily slipped into a pocket and was free of sharp edges that would damage fabric.

The term pocket watch was also coined during this time. Fob comes from the Low German dialect word “fuppe” for a small bag. Today, fob refers to the pocket that a watch slips into, the chain or band that attaches to a pocket watch, or the actual watch that hangs from the chain.

For most pocket watch connoisseurs, watch fob refers to the chain or band attached to a pocket watch and is usually shorter than a watch chain.

Whether you call it a watch pendant or a pocket watch, the story is the same. When World War I began, the wristwatch took over and the pocket watch got stuck in the pockets of history. That is… until chic dressers like you decided to give them a try.

Personal armor made of metal links

zirah bagtar. Armor of this type was introduced to India under the Mughals. Riveted chain and plate jacket. Armor of this type was introduced to India under the Mughals.

Chain mail (properly called mail or maille, but usually incorrectly referred to as chainmail or mail)[1] is a type of armor consisting of small metal rings linked together in a pattern to form a web. It was generally established between the 3rd century B.C. Used militarily in Europe and later in Asia and North Africa in the 16th century AD. A cloak of this armor is often referred to as chain mail and sometimes as a byrnie.

history [edit]

shield.[2] The Vachères warrior, 1st century BC B.C., A statue depicting a romanized Gallic warrior wearing chain mail and a Celtic torc around his neck, wearing a Celtic style

Thorakites) in chain mail and with a Thureos shield Fresco of an ancient Macedonian soldier () in chain mail and with a shield

The earliest examples of surviving mail were found in the Carpathian Basin at a burial in Horný Jatov, Slovakia, from the 3rd century BC. and found in a chief’s burial in Ciumești, Romania. Its invention is generally attributed to the Celts,[6] but there are examples of Etruscan model mail dating at least as far as the 4th century BC. come from.[7][8][9] Mail may have been inspired by much earlier scale armor. The mail spread to North Africa, West Africa, the Middle East, Central Asia, India, Tibet, Southeast Asia and Japan.

Herodotus wrote that the ancient Persians wore scale mail, but chain mail is also specifically mentioned in the Avesta, the ancient scripture of the Persian religion of Zoroastrianism, established in the 5th century BC. by the prophet Zoroaster.[12]

Mail is also used in the 21st century as a component of stab-resistant body armour, cut-resistant gloves for butchers and woodworkers, shark-resistant wetsuits to ward off shark bites, and a number of other applications.

Etymology[ edit ]

The origins of the word mail are not fully known. One theory holds that it originally derives from the Latin word macula, meaning spot or opacity (as in macula of the retina). Another theory relates the word to Old French maillier, meaning “to hammer” (related to the modern English word malleable).[13] In modern French, maille refers to a loop or stitch.[14] The Arabic words “burnus”, برنوس, a burnous; a hooded cloak, also a chasuble (worn by Coptic priests) and “barnaza”, برنز, to bronze, suggest an Arab influence for the Carolingian armor known as “byrnie” (see below).

The earliest evidence of the word mail is in Old French and Anglo-Norman: maille, maile, or male, or other variants that became mailye, maille, maile, male, or meile in Middle English.[15]

In early medieval Europe, “byrn(ie)” was the equivalent of a “tank”.

The modern usage of terms for mail armor is highly contested in popular and, to a lesser extent, academic culture. Medieval sources referred to armor of this type simply as mail; Chain mail, however, has become a commonly used, though incorrect [citation needed] neologism, coined no later than 1786, appearing in Francis Grose’s A Treatise on Ancient Armor and Weapons, and made public in Sir Walter Scott’s novel The Fortunes no later than 1822 of Nigel.[16][17] Since then, the word chainmail has been commonly, albeit incorrectly, applied to other types of armor, e.g. B. on plate armor (first confirmed in 1786 in Grose’s treatise). The more correct term is plate armor.

Civilizations that used mail invented specific terms for each item of clothing made from it. The common terms for European chain armor come from French: spats are called chausses, a hood is chain hood and mittens are mitons. A chain collar hanging from a helmet is a chamomile or chain mail. A chain mail shirt is a hauberk if it is knee length and a hauberk if it is mid-thigh length. A layer (or layers) of mail between layers of fabric is called a jazerant.

A waist-length cloak was called a byrnie in Medieval Europe, although the exact construction of a byrnie is unclear, including whether it was made of chain mail or other types of armor. Bennet, Bradbury, DeVries, Dickie, and Jestice [18] state that the byrnie was the Carolingian soldier’s “most prized piece of armor” and point out that:

There is some dispute among historians as to what exactly constituted Carolingian Byrnie. Relying… only on artistic and some literary sources because of the lack of archaeological examples, some believe it was a heavy leather jacket with metal scales sewn onto it. It was also quite long, reaching below the hips and covering most of the arms. Other historians claim instead that the Carolingian byrnie was nothing more than mail, but longer and perhaps heavier than traditional early medieval mail. Without more specific evidence, this dispute will continue.

In Europe[edit]

Mail armor and equipment of a Polish medium cavalryman from the second half of the 17th century

The use of mail as armor on the battlefield was common during the Iron Age and the Middle Ages, and became less common throughout the 16th and 17th centuries as plate armor and more advanced firearms were developed. It is believed that the Roman Republic first encountered post-battles against the Gauls at Cisalpine Gaul, present-day northern Italy.[19] The Roman army adopted the technology for their troops in the form of the Lorica Hamata, which was used as the primary form of armor during the Imperial period.

Panel from the Bayeux Tapestry depicting Norman and Anglo-Saxon soldiers in chain mail. Note the scene where mail is stripped from the dead below.

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, much of the infrastructure needed to manufacture plate armor dwindled. Eventually the word “Panzerpost” became synonymous with armor.[20][21][22][23] It was usually an extremely valuable commodity as it was expensive and time consuming to produce and could mean the difference between life and death in a battle. Mail from dead combatants was often looted and used by the new owner or sold for a lucrative price. As time went on and infrastructure improved, more soldiers used it. The oldest surviving chain mail is said to have belonged to Duke Leopold III. worn by Austria, who died in the Battle of Sempach in 1386.[24] With the advent of cavalry lance charge, slam warfare, and powerful crossbows, mail eventually came to be used as secondary armor for the mounted nobility.

By the 14th century, articulated plate armor was commonly used to complement mail. Eventually the mail was largely replaced by plates as it offered better protection against windlass crossbows, bludgeoning weapons and lance charges while retaining most of the mail’s mobility. However, it was still used by many soldiers along with brigandines and padded jacks. These three types of armor made up the bulk of the equipment used by soldiers, with mail being the most expensive. It was sometimes more expensive than plate armor.[25] In technologically less advanced areas such as Eastern Europe, the mail usually lasted longer, but was used throughout Europe up until the 16th century.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, mail was used as the material for bulletproof vests, most notably by the Wilkinson Sword Company. The results were unsatisfactory; The Wilkinson mail shirt worn by the Khedive of Egypt’s “Iron Men” regiment was made from split rings, which proved too brittle and the rings shattered when struck by bullets, aggravating the injury. The riveted mail armor worn by the opposing Sudanese madhists did not have the same problem, but also proved relatively useless against the firearms used by British forces at the Battle of Omdurman.[31] During World War I, Wilkinson Sword switched from the Post to a slatted design, which was the progenitor of the flak jacket.

Also during World War I, a chain hem designed by Captain Cruise of the British Infantry was added to helmets to protect the face. This proved unpopular with soldiers, although it has been shown to defend against a 100 g (3 ounce) shrapnel round fired at a distance of 91 m (100 yards) chips) used in the vehicle.

In Asia[edit]

Tibetan warrior in armor reinforced with additional mirror plate

Mail armor was introduced to the Middle East and Asia by the Romans and was adopted by the Sassanid Persians from the 3rd century AD, where it complemented the scale and lamellar armor already in use. Mail was also commonly used as horse armor for cataphracts and heavy cavalry, as well as armor for the soldiers themselves. Asian mail could be as heavy as the European variety and sometimes had prayer symbols stamped on the rings as a sign of their craftsmanship and divine protection.[33]

Mail armor is mentioned in the Qur’an as a gift from Allah to David:

21:80 It was We who taught him how to make mail for your benefit, to protect you from mutual violence: will you then be thankful? (Translation by Yusuf Ali)

From the Abbasid Caliphate, the post office in Central Asia was quickly taken over by Timur (Tamerlane) and the Sogdians, as well as the Indian Sultanate of Delhi. Chain mail was introduced by the Turks in the late 12th century and was widely used by the Turks and the Mughal and Suri armies where it eventually became the armor of choice in India, and it was often integrated with plate protection (mail and plate armor). Mail and plate armor were widely used in India up until the Battle of Plassey by the Nawabs of Bengal and the subsequent British conquest of the subcontinent.

China [ edit ]

Mail was introduced to China when his allies in Central Asia paid tribute to the Tang Emperor in 718 by giving him a coat of “link armour”, believed to be mail. China first encountered armor in 384 when its allies in the nation of Kuchi arrived wearing “chain-like armor”. Once in China, mail was imported but not widely used. Due to its flexibility, comfort, and rarity, it was the armor worn by senior guards and those who could afford the exotic import (to show off their social status) rather than base armor, more commonly used brigandine-, scale- and lamella types. However, it was one of the few military products that China imported from foreigners. The mail spread to Korea a little later, where it was imported as armor for imperial guards and generals.

Japan [ edit ]

Japanese (samurai) chain armor or kusari gusoku from the Edo period

In Japan, post is called kusari, which means chain. When the word kusari is used in connection with an armored item, it usually means that armor makes up the bulk of the armor composition.[34] An example of this would be kusari gusoku which means chain armor. Kusari jackets, hoods, gloves, vests, shin guards, shoulder guards, thigh guards and other armored garments were made, even Kusari tabi socks.

Kusari has been used in samurai armor since at least the time of the Mongol invasion (1270s), but especially since the Nambokucho period (1336–1392). The Japanese used many different weaving methods, including a 4-in-1 square pattern (so gusari), a 6-in-1 hexagonal pattern (hana gusari), and a 4-in-1 European pattern (nanban gusari). [36] Japan Post’s rings were much smaller than their European counterparts; They would be used in patches, to join panels together and to drape vulnerable areas like the armpits.

Riveted kusari were known and used in Japan. On page 58 of the book Japanese Arms & Armor: Introduction by H. Russell Robinson there is a picture of Japanese riveted kusari[37] and this quote from the translated reference of Sakakibara Kozan’s [ja] 1800 book The Manufacture of Armor and Helme im 16th Century Japan, shows that the Japanese not only knew and used riveted Kusari, but also manufactured them.

… Karakuri namban (riveted namban), with strong links, each closed by a rivet. Its invention is credited to Fukushima Dembei Kunitaka, a student of Hojo Awa no Kami Ujifusa, but it is also said to be directly derived from foreign models. It is heavy because the links are tinned (biakuro-nagashi) and they are also sharp-edged because they are stamped from sheet iron[38]

Butted or split (twisted) links made up the majority of kusari links used by the Japanese. The links were either butted together, meaning the ends touched and were not riveted, or the kusari was constructed with links where the wire was twisted or twisted two or more times. These split links are similar to the modern split ring commonly used on key fobs. The rings were painted black to prevent rust and were always sewn onto a cloth or leather backing. The kusari was sometimes completely hidden between layers of cloth.[40]

Kusari gusoku or chain armor was widely used as a standalone defense during the Edo period from 1603 to 1868. According to George Cameron Stone

Occasionally, full suits of chainmail kusari gusoku were worn, sometimes under ordinary clothing[41]

Ian Bottomley, in his book Arms and Armor of the Samurai: The History of Weaponry in Ancient Japan[42] shows an image of kusari armor and mentions kusari katabira (chain jackets) with detachable arms worn by samurai police officers during the Edo- time were worn . The end of the samurai era in the 1860s, along with the 1876 ban on carrying swords in public, marked the end of any practical use of chain and other armor in Japan. Japan turned to a conscript army and uniforms replaced armor.[43]

Efficacy [ edit ]

Posthauberk from the Bayeux Museum

Mail armor provided an effective defense against slashing blows from edged weapons and some forms of penetration from many thrusting and thrusting weapons. In fact, a study conducted at the Royal Armories in Leeds concluded that “it is almost impossible to penetrate with a conventional medieval weapon”. In general, armor’s resistance to weapons is determined by four factors: joint type (riveted, butt, or welded), material used (iron versus bronze or steel), weave density (tighter weave requires a thinner weapon to outperform), and ring Thickness (generally in the range of 18 to 14 gauge (1.02-1.63 mm diameter) wire in most examples). If a warrior could afford it, chain mail offered a significant advantage when combined with competent combat techniques.

Unless the mail was riveted, a thrust from most edged weapons could penetrate it. However, when armor was riveted, only a strong, well-placed thrust from certain spears or thin or specialized armored swords like the estoc could penetrate, and a polaxe or halberd strike could pierce the armor. Powerful projectile weapons such as more powerful autobows, recurve bows, and crossbows could also penetrate riveted mail. Some evidence suggests that during armored combat the intention was actually to bypass rather than penetrate the armor – according to a study of skeletons found in Visby, Sweden, most skeletons had wounds on less well protected ones legs up.[48] Although chain mail was formidable protection, chain mail worn under plate armor over time (as well as chain mail in its own right) could be penetrated by another knight’s conventional weapons due to advances in technology.

The post’s flexibility meant that a blow often injured the wearer,[49] potentially resulting in severe bruising or fractures, and it was a poor defense against head injury. Chain-clad warriors typically wore separate rigid helmets over their chainmail hoods to protect the head. Likewise, blunt weapons such as clubs and warhammers could injure the wielder with their impact without penetrating armor; Soft armor, such as a gambeson, was usually worn under the mail. Medieval surgeons were well able to set and dress broken bones caused by blunt weapons.[50] However, with a lack of understanding of hygiene, cuts that could become infected were a much bigger problem.[50] Thus, mail armor proved to be adequate protection in most situations.[51][52]

manufacture [edit]

A 1698 manuscript showing the manufacture of mail

Several patterns for connecting the rings have been known since ancient times, the most common being the 4-to-1 pattern (where each ring is connected to four others). In Europe, the 4-to-1 pattern was completely dominant. Postal was also common in East Asia, mainly Japan, with several more patterns being used and a whole nomenclature developing around them.

Historically, in Europe, since pre-Roman times, the rings that make up chain mail have been riveted to reduce the likelihood of the rings bursting when subjected to a thrust attack or hit by an arrow.

Up until the 14th century, European mail consisted of alternating rows of round rivet rings and solid rings. Sometime in the 14th century, European mail manufacturers began to switch from round rivets to wedge-shaped rivets, but continued to use alternating rows of solid rings. Eventually, European mail manufacturers stopped using fixed rings, and almost all European mail pieces were made only from wedge-riveted rings, with no fixed rings. Both were commonly made from wrought iron, but some later pieces were made from heat-treated steel. Wire for the riveted rings was formed by one of two methods. One was to hammer wrought iron into slabs and cut or slit the slabs. These thin pieces were then repeatedly drawn through a die until the desired diameter was achieved. Water wheel driven draw mills are depicted in several historical manuscripts. Another method was to simply forge an iron billet into a bar and then draw it into wire. The solid links would have been made by stamping from sheet metal. Guild marks were often stamped on the rings to show their provenance and craftsmanship. Forge welding has also been used to create solid joints, but few possible examples are known; the only well-documented example from Europe is that of the 7th-century coppergate helmet’s camail.[54] Outside Europe this practice was more common, e.g. B. “Theta” links from India. Very few examples of historical chain mail have been found, and it is generally accepted that chain mail was never widely used historically, except in Japan, where chain mail (kusari) was commonly made from links of chain.[39] Butted link mail was also used by the Moros of the Philippines in their mail and plate armor.

Modern uses[edit]

Practical applications[edit]

Neptunian Shark Suit

Mail is used as protective clothing for butchers against meat packing equipment. Workers are allowed to carry mail weighing up to 3.6 kg under their white coats.[55] Butchers also commonly wear a single gauntlet to protect themselves from self-inflicted injuries when slicing meat, as do many oyster shellers.

Divers sometimes use mail to protect themselves from shark bites, as do animal control officers for protection from the animals they handle. In 1980, marine biologist Jeremiah Sullivan patented his design for full-coverage, shark-resistant Neptunic chain mail suits that he had developed for close encounters with sharks. Shark expert and underwater filmmaker Valerie Taylor was one of the first to develop and test shark suits while diving with sharks in 1979.[58]

Post is commonly used in industrial settings as spall protection and splash protection in metal fabrication shops.

Electrical applications for the post include RF leakage current testing and being worn as a Faraday cage suit by Tesla coil enthusiasts and high voltage electricians.

Stab proof vests[ edit ]

Traditional textile-based ballistic vests are designed to stop soft-nosed bullets but offer little protection from knife attacks. Knife-resistant armor was developed to defend against knife attacks; Some of these use layers of metal plates, chains, and metal wires.[61]

Historical reenactment[ edit ]

Roman soldier AD 175 from a northern province (re-enactment).

Many historical reenactment groups, particularly those with an ancient or medieval focus, often use chainmail as both practical armor and costumes. Post is especially popular with groups using steel weapons. A modern mail shirt made of 1.5 mm diameter wire and 10 mm inner diameter rings weighs about 10 kg and contains 15,000-45,000 rings.

One of the downsides to Post is the uneven weight distribution; the load falls mainly on the shoulders. Weight can be better distributed by wearing a belt over mail, which provides another point of support.[62]

Mail worn today for reenactment and recreational purposes can be made in a variety of styles and materials. Today, most leisure mail pieces are made of galvanized or stainless links. This is historically inaccurate, but much cheaper to purchase and especially to maintain than historically accurate reproductions. Post can also be made of titanium, aluminum, bronze or copper. Riveted mail offers significantly better protection and historical accuracy than mail constructed with butt links. The Japanese post (kusari) is one of the few historically accurate examples of post constructed with such butt joints.[39]

Decorative uses[edit]

Major’s shoulder chains

Mail, a bracelet with the Roundmaille weave A modern example of using a bracelet with the

Post remained in use as a decorative and possibly high-ranking symbol with military overtones long after its practical usefulness had passed. It was often used for the epaulettes of military uniforms. It is still used in this form by some British Army regiments.

Mail finds application in sculpture and jewelry, especially when made of precious metals or brightly anodized metals. Postal artwork includes headwear, decorative wall hangings, ornaments, chess sets, macrame and jewellery. Hundreds of patterns (commonly referred to as “weaves”) have been invented for these non-traditional uses.[63]

Large-limbed mail is occasionally used as fetish clothing material, with the large limbs intended to reveal – in part – the body beneath.

In the movie[edit]

Some films use knitting cord sprayed with metallic paint instead of post to reduce costs (an example is Monty Python and the Holy Grail, which was filmed on a very small budget). Films more devoted to costume accuracy often use ABS plastic rings to reduce cost and weight. Such ABS armor platings were made alongside many metal platings for the film trilogy The Lord of the Rings. The metal jackets are rarely used due to their weight, except for close-up shots where the appearance of ABS rings can be seen. A large scale example of the ABS armor used in The Lord of the Rings can be seen in the entrance of the Royal Armories Museum in Leeds in the form of a large curtain bearing the museum’s logo. It was acquired by the makers of the film’s armor, Weta Workshop, when the museum was hosting a display of WETA armor from their films. For the film Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Tina Turner reportedly wore real mail and complained about how heavy it was. Game of Thrones uses mail, particularly during the Red Wedding scene.

Gallery [ edit ]

Edo period 1800 Japanese (samurai) mail socks or kusari tabi butted rings.

Edo period Japanese chainmail jacket, butted rings kusari katabira.

Edo period Japanese (samurai) chain gauntlets, kusari han kote, butted rings.

A rare example of Japanese riveted mail, round riveted rings.

Examples of Edo period Japanese (Samurai) Post-Kusari.

Close up of Mughal riveted mail and plate coat of zirah bagtar, 17th century, alternating rows of solid rings and round riveted rings.

Close up detail of Mughal riveted mail cap kulah zirah, 17th century, alternating rows of round riveted rings and solid rings.

Mughal riveted mail and plate coat Zirah Bagtar, 17th century, Alternating rows of round riveted rings and solid rings.

Mughal riveted mail hood Kulah Zirah. 17th century, alternating rows of round rivet rings and solid rings.

“David Refuses the Unaccustomed Armor” (detail of fol. 28r of the 13th-century Morgan Bible). The picture shows a method of removing a chain mail.

Indian theta-link carapace (bar-link carapace), alternating rows of solid theta rings and round riveted rings, 17th century.

Ottoman riveted chain mail, alternating rows of round riveted links and solid links, 16th century.

European wedge-riveted mail showing both sides of the rings, 16th-17th centuries.

Man with mail today.

See also[edit]

Chain based armor[ edit ]

Armor supplementary to post[edit]

Usually worn under mail if thin, or over mail if thick:

Gambeson (aka quilted armor or padded jack)

Can be worn over chain armor:

Other:

The INSIDER summary:

When wearing a suit, always leave the bottom button undone for vests and jackets.

The tradition dates back to King Edward VII in the early 1900s.

He unbuttoned the hem of his vest because it was too big.

He unbuttoned the hem of his jacket to pay homage to the riding jacket, which was replaced by the suit.

There’s one basic rule when it comes to buttoning a blazer: “Sometimes, always, never” – if you have a three-button blazer, sometimes button the top, always the middle, and never the bottom.

On a two-button suit, you should always button the top button and never the second.

Regardless of what type of suit you wear, the bottom button should never be buttoned.

A similar rule applies to a vest: always leave the bottom button undone.

It’s fashion gospel for men (women are generally allowed to button the bottom button). Men’s suit designers often cut the fabric so that suit jackets and waistcoats look more flattering when unbuttoned at the bottom.

But it’s also an odd fashion rule – why have a button if you’re not going to use it? Where does this tradition come from?

The answer goes back to a very fat king: King Edward VII.

The story of King Edward VII (who reigned 1901-1910) is often dismissed as a myth – but it is absolutely true.

As fashion blogs and fashion magazines will tell you, there is a story that when King Edward VII was the Prince of Wales and suits became fashionable, his waistcoat became too bulky for him so he stopped buttoning the bottom button so that it could better suited .

Out of respect for him, the British court – and eventually everyone else in England and the British colonies – stopped buttoning their bottom buttons.

Edward VII, right, with Prince George, left, in 1901. The lower part of Edward’s waistcoat is open. Wikimedia Commons

The ‘Edwardian theory’, as GQ UK fashion director Robert Johnson calls it, isn’t always taken seriously. It sounds too silly to be true. But historians of British fashion hold it as fact, albeit a bit muddled over the years.

The truth is that Edward VII started the trend of unbuttoning the bottom button on waistcoats as well as the bottom button on suit jackets, but for two very different reasons.

Suit jackets are unbuttoned at the bottom because they have replaced riding jackets.

The story of the “Edwardian theory” is told by Sir Hardy Amies, an English fashion designer who was Queen Elizabeth II’s official tailor for almost four decades – from her accession to the throne in 1952 until his retirement in 1989.

His fashion house is on Savile Row, a London spot famous for its tailored men’s suits, so Sir Amies knows a thing or two about suits and court fashion.

The Duke of Roxburghe at Buckingham Palace in 1910, after the death of King Edward VII. The bottom of his suit is unbuttoned. W.G. Phillips/Phillips/Getty Images

In a 1992 lecture he gave to the Royal Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce, he traced the history of “The Englishman’s Suit” from 1670 to the present day. Today’s single-breasted suit was first introduced in 1906 and was known as the “lounge suit”.

It had three buttons, but was still a little different from today’s suit – it was intended more for casual wear and was cut loosely so it looked best when the wearer was holding a horse’s bridle. As Amies noted, it was “of great importance” to “control the drape and the position of the button at the waist.”

The “lounge suit” therefore began to replace traditional riding coats. The third buttons of riding coats sat below the waist, so they had to be unbuttoned in order for the jacket to drape properly while on horseback.

Edward VII decided that the top button should also be undone because, according to Amies, it “looked ordinary”, leaving only the middle button to secure the coat.

Leo knows what he’s doing. Jerod Harris/Getty Images for National Geographic Channel

As the lounge suit jacket caught on as everyday fashion, Edward VII left the bottom button undone to pay homage to the style of riding coat they were replacing.

Waistcoats are unbuttoned at the bottom because Edward was fat.

Edward VII had a “legendary” appetite, according to the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography.

“He ate a full meal of breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner (usually twelve courses), and supper,” says the dictionary. “He drank moderately but usually smoked twelve giant cigars and twenty cigarettes a day.”

Sir Hardy Amies, Queen Elizabeth II’s dresser, on his 90th birthday in 1999. He wore a perfect suit. Dylan Martinez/Reuters

Edward was also legendary for his attention to menswear. In a discussion after Amies’ presentation, a member of the society asked Amies about vests and why the bottom buttons of vests (like jackets) should be left undone. Amies said tradition is also attributed to Edward.

“Edward VII always left his bottom button undone because he was fat,” Amies replied. “He found it more comfortable and everyone imitated it.

The trend, according to the Oxford Dictionary, “was followed in Britain and the Empire, but not on the Continent or in the US.” But nowadays, unbuttoning the bottom of the waistcoat is the norm.

Suit jackets today usually have two buttons.

Three button jackets are fairly common, but over the last 40 years there has been a trend towards two button jackets in suits. On some of the trendiest suits, like the J.Crew Ludlow, you only see two buttons. In this case, following Edward’s advice, leave the bottom button undone but button the top one.

For Amies, however, the ideal suit was in the 1980s, when three buttons were still in vogue.

“The more I look at the three-button suit – properly buttoned up at the waist, top button undone with a carefree air, bottom button undone, a homage to the curves of the riding coat – the more pleasing to the eye I find it to be,” he remarked. “His proportions are right.”

But instead of all that – here he was, the wealthy husband of an unfaithful wife, a retired valet who liked to eat and drink and, while unbuttoning his waistcoat, ranted a little at the government, a member of the Moscow English Club and a universal favorite in Moscow society.