Pool Season Super Algae Destroyer? Trust The Answer

frequently asked Questions

What is affecting my sanitizer’s ability to do its job?

Sun, seaweed and swimmers – just to name a few. Your Pool Season sanitizer has built-in protection from the sun’s harmful rays and the power to prevent algae and bacterial growth. Pool Season sanitizers reduce the need for acid additives and leave no messy residue. Pool Season sanitizers are simply the most convenient solution for a trouble-free pool.

Can I use less sanitizer in my pool?

Yes! Fast-acting Pool Season algaecides prevent all types of algae and reduce your sanitization needs. Your Pool Season dealer can recommend the best fit for your pool. Pool care and maintenance is easy with Pool Season algaecides.

Why do I need to make sure my pool water is properly balanced?

When your pool water is balanced, your sanitizer will be more effective and your water will be dazzling. Your family and friends will feel more comfortable and the pool surface and equipment will last longer. Improve the effectiveness of your pool system and the life of your pool with Pool Season leveling products.

Can I improve the comfort of my pool water?

Yes! From time to time, your sanitizer needs an extra boost. Pool Season’s shock products transform your pool water from dull and flat to shiny and clear while eliminating eye and skin irritation while improving water comfort. Shock your water regularly with a Pool Season oxidizer and bring back comfort to your pool water.

What else can I do to maximize my swimming experience?

A clean filter, pristine tile surfaces and the clearest water will add to your overall pool enjoyment. With Pool Season’s accessory products, you can achieve your best pool environment. Pool Season accessories are the finishing touch to quality pool maintenance. Ask your Pool Season pool attendant how to do this.

How often should I shock my pool?

It is important to regularly shock your pool every 1 – 2 weeks. Shocking the pool regularly is an important element in keeping your pool clear and clean. Swimmers and the environment add litter to the pool that needs to be cleaned up regularly to prevent problems like algae and cloudy water.

How often should I use algaecide in my pool?

Algaecides should be added to your pool water weekly. Preventing algae is key to having fun in your pool. Algaecides act as a backup to your normal sanitization program, preventing algae from starting and growing in the pool. Algaecides should be added after each shock treatment.

How often should I test my pool water? Why is it important to test my pool water?

Testing your pool 2-3 times per week is important to maintain adequate water balance and sanitizer levels and to ensure swimmer comfort. Test strips are a quick (30 second) means of testing the pool for appropriate sanitizer levels, as well as pH and total alkalinity. Proper testing also ensures that calcium levels are maintained and that metals are not present in the pool water.

Are you unsure of the correct answer to the question can I admit shock and chlorine at the same time? If the answer is yes, then surely you will have many reasons to go through this article. We will share some useful information on how to shock the pool while adding an algaecide to the water.

Can I add shock and chlorine at the same time – Can you add chlorine and stabilizer at the same time?

Whether you are landscaping your pool or renovating your old pool from vinyl to fiberglass, it is important to consider the chemicals required for maintenance. There is no doubt that adding the right amount of algaecide and shocking the pool at the same time are long tried and tested ways to get rid of that dirty and green water. This is caused by algae growth. However, is it right to do both together? Let’s find the answers.

It shouldn’t be done together

While quenching and adding algaecide is effective for getting rid of algae, they should not be done together. Because if you mix chlorine and algaecide together, both become useless. Therefore, you should shock the pool first and wait until the chlorine level drops below 5 PPM. Only then should you use algaecide to achieve the best results.

How to fight algae

Separately introduced chlorine combines with algae and kills them. However, when free chlorine combines with algae, very little of it is available to combine with bacteria and other potentially harmful contaminants. If you test the pool, you may find that it is chlorine deficient. Therefore, a good way to deal with algae is to ensure the pool is shocked and quickly ramp up the chlorine levels to 10pm or even higher.

Algae kills certainly kill algae, but they work slowly. This is because they release positively charged ions. This attacks the negatively charged algae particles. Because algaecides are not broken down in sunlight, they remain available in the water much longer.

chlorine enhancer

We should also understand that chlorine attacks the various polymer chains in algaecides and also binds to the ions as far as the metal based ones are concerned. So if you use chlorine and algaecide together, you’re wasting the latter because the pool has just been shocked with chlorine. If you want to increase the effectiveness of chlorine, you can consider adding a chlorine booster, also known as a super shock treatment. You could add sodium bromide and other ammonia compounds. These combine well with chlorine and produce amines. These kill algae and are designed for use when there are serious algae problems.

Some steps to keep in mind

Before shocking a pool you need to check the cyanuric acid and pH levels. The pH should be lowered to the range of 7.2 to 7.8. A row

close to 7.2 will be pretty good. The cyanuric acid level should be between 10 and 40 PPM. This prevents the chlorine from breaking down. Late afternoon is the best time to add chlorine as it has to work all night.

You should also vacuum out sediment and brush the sides of the pool. Use the right amount of chlorine for shock purposes.

The last word

Understanding the correct answers to the question of can I add shock and chlorine at the same time is important because it will help you ensure your pool stays algae free. You also get the best value for money for the algaecides you use regularly. Always remember that your type of pool water will also affect the amount of chlorine you use. For more information on how to shock treat your pool, our pool construction experts here at Richard’s Total Backyard Solutions can help.

Mustard Seaweed

If you notice brown or yellow algae clinging to your pool walls or bottom, it’s time to reach for that scrubbing brush again. Normal detergents often have a hard time reaching mustard algae as they tend to accumulate when water levels are low. Luckily, this type of algae is far less stubborn than black algae. A good scrubbing, vacuuming and water balance should clear it up.

It is important to note that reinfection with mustard algae is very common. These algae can survive on pool toys like floaties or noodles and even evade treatment by hiding in the pool filter. It can also live in your trusty scrub brush and undo all your hard work! Inspect and clean all your pool supplies and accessories if you notice mustard algae.

Blue-green alga

Blue or green algae are the most common type of pool algae, but they are no less difficult to clean. Green algae cling to the walls of your pool, but they can also float freely, creating a cloudy, swamp-like film over the water. You guessed it – you need the good old scrubbing brush and some borax.

Just as baking soda can be a spot treatment for black algae, household borax does the same for blue and green algae. Simply use the borax to scrub off any algae clinging to your pool walls and then use the brush to remove it. Then vacuum up or scoop out the free-floating algae. You’ll have it a lot easier once the borax has stopped the algae bloom.

Eliminate all types of algae

The goal is never to have algae. Test your water regularly, keep your filter clean and in good condition, and treat your water after big pool parties. Using a floating pool skimmer and chemical dispenser like the Solar-Breeze NX2 or Solar-Breeze’s latest Ariel will remove debris from the surface of your pool before it can sink, rot and turn into food for algae. With proper pool maintenance, algae can be something you don’t need to worry about.

Frequently Asked Questions What is the difference between chlorine and shock? Do I have to use both? I think I have algae. What can I do? My pool is cloudy. How do I delete it? My water is green and doesn’t improve with Shock. How do I restore water clarity? I have white powder at the bottom of my pool. What is it? Why do I need all these chemicals? My pool is stained. how to clean it How long after adding chemicals can I swim? How often should I run my filter? When should I clean or backwash it? 1) What is the difference between chlorine and shock? Do I have to use both? Chlorine is a sanitizer and (unless using Baquacil products) is necessary to maintain a clear and healthy pool. Shock is high dose chlorine designed to shock your pool and increase chlorine levels quickly. Chlorine tabs (placed in a chlorinator, float, or skimmer basket) maintain a residual level of chlorine in the water. You must use both tabs and shock. Without tabs, the chlorine shock dissipates quickly from the water; Without a shock, the chlorine level will not become high enough to fully disinfect the water. You should aim to keep chlorine levels between 1 and 3 ppm. We recommend shocking the pool every week to two weeks; In hot weather or more frequent use, you may need to shock more frequently. When the tabs are used up, replace them. 2) I think I have algae. What can I do? Algae are usually green, but can also be mustard, black, or red. Sometimes it resembles a stain on the walls or floor; If you can brush it off, it’s algae. If you can’t brush it off, it’s probably a stain (see question 7). You can’t test for algae – if you see it in the water or feel a slime along the liner, then you have it. Add a dose of algaecide, shock your chlorine levels up, and run the filter continuously until the problem goes away. The next day you should vacuum off the dead algae and backwash your filter. Algae thrive in hot weather and in pools with little or no chlorine. Be dutiful to shock for up to two weeks each week and add a maintenance dose of algaecide every two weeks to prevent further algae growth. 3) My pool is cloudy. How do I delete it? Water clarity issues typically have one of two causes: water imbalance or filter problems. If your pool is cloudy, first check that it is properly balanced. The easiest way is to bring a water sample to Splash Pool Supply. We will analyze your water within minutes and provide you with all necessary chemicals. You can also use test strips or a test kit at home. Common causes of cloudy water are low chlorine or low alkalinity levels. When the water is balanced, you can try a clarifier or flocculant; These products coagulate the particles in your water and allow them to fall to the bottom for vacuuming. Run your filter until the water runs clear. If treating the water does not solve the problem, there may be a filter problem. Backwash your sand or DE filter; Rinse the cartridge of your cartridge filter. If you have a sand filter, make sure you change the sand every 3 to 5 years. If you have a DE filter, try rinsing the fingers or grids with a filter solution and changing the DE powder. If these spikes still don’t clear the water, you may have a metal problem (see question 4). Your best bet is to bring a water sample to the store and speak to a trained staff member. 4) My water is green and doesn’t get better from shock. How do I restore water clarity? Now that you’ve ruled out algae (see question 2), it’s time to start thinking about metals. If the water is light green, does not improve after shock, or gets worse after shock, you may have metals in your water. The most common metals here are copper and iron, especially common in well water. Chlorine oxidizes the metals, turning the water green and sometimes discoloring the walls and bottom of the pool. Bring a water sample to Splash Pool Supply and get tested for metals. If they are present in your water, we will provide you with a product to remove them. You should also refrain from further shocks until the metal problem is resolved. 5) I have white powder at the bottom of my pool. What is it? One possibility is improperly added chemicals are sitting at the bottom of your pool. Have you thought of pre-mixing the Calcium Balance in a bucket of water? Did you add the water stabilizer through the skimmer? If not, these chemicals may not have dissolved properly. However, if you have a DE filter, chances are one of the fingers or grilles in the filter canister has snapped. DE powder escapes through these tears and is blown back into the pool. Remove the lid of the tank, wash the fingers or grates and carefully inspect for cracks. You may need to replace a section of grille, a few fingers, or even the entire tank. You may also have a crack or loose screws in the filter’s faceplate. 6) Why do I need:

alkalinity balance? Alkalinity helps stabilize pH; When the alkalinity is in range, the pH will fluctuate less. Low alkalinity also leads to cloudy water. With acid rain, alkalinity decreases; It is important to add Alkalinity Balance regularly throughout the summer to maintain levels between 100 and 150 ppm. pH higher? A low pH means your pool is acidic. Acidic water can attack metal fittings, filter systems and especially heaters. The pH drops when it rains, so it’s important to add pH Up regularly to keep it between 7.2 and 7.8. A pH value that is too high or too low can also irritate the eyes. If your pH is too high, you may need to lower the pH a bit. Calcium balance? Calcium Balance softens the water. Here in Connecticut we tend to have fairly hard water so it is normal for you to need a large amount of Calcium Balance early in the season and after adding fresh water to your pool. Adequate calcium levels will protect your liner and equipment from chemical aggression. If you own an underground gunite pool, adding calcium is essential; If the water is too hard, it will strip minerals from the wall, damaging the walls and paint. Calcium is also important for the clarity of your water. water stabilizer? Water stabilizer acts as a sunscreen for your pool and helps keep chlorine in the water. Without a high enough stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level, the chlorine you add to the water will quickly be leached out by the sun. Add about 2 pounds. stabilizer per 5,000 gallons of pool water. Pour the stabilizer very slowly through your skimmer while the pump is running. Do not backwash the filter for 5 days; If you need to vacuum or backwash, do that first. The stabilizer will dissolve in your filter under pressure. Usually towards the end of July you need to add another small dose of stabilizer. Shock? Shock is liquid or granular chlorine. You should add a gallon (or pound) of shock for every 10,000 gallons of pool water every week to two weeks. In hot weather or frequent use, you may need to shock more frequently. Low chlorine levels often cause green or cloudy water. So if your water is looking a bit cloudy and you haven’t shocked in a while, adding a shock is the first step. It’s always best to shock the pool in the evenings when the sun is shining out of the water. If not, the sun will suck it out as fast as you add it. You should use chlorine tabs in conjunction with shock. The slow dissolving tabs keep a residual chlorine in the water. However, tabs alone do not provide adequate chlorination for a pool. 7) My pool is stained. how to clean it The most common cause of stains is metals in your water (see question 4). This is especially likely if you have well water or a heater. Bring a water sample to Splash Pool Supply and get tested for metals. If they are present in your water, we give you a product that removes metals and stains from swimming pools. If the discoloration is due to other causes, our Stain Out product will remove it quickly and easily. 8) How long can I swim after adding chemicals? Alkalinity Balance, pH up, pH down, Calcium Balance, Water Stabilizer, and Clarifier are all swim-safe chemicals. Wait about 20 minutes and you can swim. We suggest adding Algicide, Super Erace and Shock at night after everyone is out of the pool. The next day it is safe to swim again. 9) How often should I run my filter? When should I clean or backwash it? We recommend running the filter 8 to 10 hours a day and running it continuously when the water is not clear. Make sure the filter is running when adding chemicals. Backwash your sand filter once the pressure gauge reads 8 to 10 psi above normal (when it reaches 20 to 25 psi). Blow your DE filter as soon as the pressure gauge reads 8 to 10 psi above normal (when it reaches 20 to 25 psi). If pools are particularly dirty, you will need to flush your DE filter more often. If the water pressure back to your pool doesn’t improve, disassemble the filter, clean the fingers or screens with solution, and add fresh DE powder. Replace the cartridge of a cartridge filter when a solution no longer cleans it adequately.

How long do I have to wait before I can swim after adding pool chemicals?

After adding pH, alkalinity and clarifier

It is recommended to wait at least 20 minutes to an hour after adding water balance chemicals.

After adding calcium chloride to increase the calcium hardness

You should wait 2-4 hours (or a full filter cycle) from the time you use Calcium Chloride in your pool before swimming.

After shocking your pool

It’s safe to swim once your chlorine level is around 5ppm or after 24 hours. It’s always best to test first!

After adding hydrochloric acid

Hydrochloric acid can create a hot acidic stain in the water that may burn or irritate your skin. It is best to wait 30 minutes after adding it to your pool.

After adding algaecide

We recommend waiting at least 15 minutes before swimming after adding algaecide to your pool. It is safe to swim with most algaecides.

After adding Floc

It is not recommended to swim with flocculants in your pool as it will reduce its effectiveness. Only swim when the flakes have settled on the bottom of the pool and have been vacuumed off.

liquid chlorine

Depending on the amount you added and the size of your pool, it is generally safe to wait about 4 hours after adding liquid chlorine or until the level reaches 5 ppm or less.

You just put algaecide in your pool, can you swim now? The answer is not that simple. Algaecides are chemicals that kill algae in ponds, pools, and spas, but they can also irritate skin or cause other problems for swimmers. It is best not to go into the water until it has had time to take effect. If you decide to swim after adding algaecide, rinse your skin with fresh water when you get out of the pool.

Is it safe to swim after adding algaecide to the pool?

Yes, it’s safe to swim after adding algaecide to your pool as long as you don’t add too much at once. To safely fill the algaecide, follow the directions on the packaging and note how much to fill for a given amount of water.

Adding algaecide to the pool before it closes for the season ensures you can keep an eye on it instead of getting distracted by other things. The chemicals in algaecides take time to work. Just because you added it doesn’t mean it’s completely safe to swim right away.

Is it Safe to Swim in a Pool After Algae Has Been Eliminated?

Yes, it is safe to swim in a pool after the algae have been eliminated as long as you wait for the algaecide to work. If you’ve added algaecide and have concerns about swimming safety immediately after this process, try to occupy yourself without distraction until the algaecide is completely dissolved in the pool.

What are some of the side effects that can occur after using algaecide in the water?

Pool owners who add algaecides to their pool need to keep an eye on water balance and pH levels to avoid swimming issues. Algae are more resistant to algaecides that are added to the water too quickly, rather than adding them over time.

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Algaecides can irritate the skin, so it’s a good idea to shower thoroughly before swimming after adding algaecide to your pool. If you start to itch, rinse off immediately with fresh water and take a shower. If an item containing algaecide or an algaecide-based product comes into contact with your skin, rinse immediately with fresh water.

How long after adding algaecide can you swim?

This can take up to 24 hours.

The chemicals in algaecides take time to work. Just because you added it doesn’t mean it’s completely safe to swim right away. If you are worried about swimming safety immediately after this procedure, try to distract yourself and avoid allowing other people to get into the pool until the water becomes clearer and there is no smell of algaecide.

If you are using algaecide in your pool, make sure you read the directions on the packaging carefully before adding too much algaecide to your pool.

If you don’t do this, you can damage your running filter and equipment from coming in contact with too much chemical in the water at once. This can result in home appliances failing and your pool water becoming unsafe for swimming until it is balanced and properly treated.

Can you swim in a pool with too much algaecide?

Yes, it is possible to swim in a pool after adding algaecide to the water. However, according to a university study, you should wait at least 1 hour before entering a pool treated with chlorine or bromine, and up to four hours for an outdoor pool treated with copper-based algaecides.

When swimming in a pool, you should always check the free chlorine and total chlorine levels. Pools used by children or pregnant women should never drop below 1ppm, for all others they should be between 2 and 4ppm.

Swimming is only safe when the chemical levels (free chlorine and bromine) provided by pool operators are high enough to keep the water clean and free of bacteria.

How long after algicide can you shock?

You should wait at least 24 hours before shocking the pool after adding algaecide. Always check your Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine readings after you deliver the shock, as they can rise very high if you do not wait long enough to deliver the shock. In this case you will need to drain some of the water (about 25%) to bring the chemical level back to normal.

How long can you stay in a pool with chlorine or algaecides?

You should not stay in a pool that has been treated with chlorine or bromine for more than 20 minutes. The ideal total time in the water per day, including showering and swimming, is 2 hours. You can always shower after entering the pool to prevent skin irritation caused by prolonged exposure to these chemicals.

Outdoor pools treated with copper-based algaecides require different safety precautions. You should never swim in it for more than 20 minutes a day as the water could irritate your eyes if you’re not careful.

You should always wear safety goggles and avoid swallowing the water.

How long does it take for the algaecide to dissolve?

It can take up to 24-48 hours for the algaecide to fully dissolve. When the process is complete, you should drain some of your water if it contains a large concentration of algaecides.

You can also drain some water if your pool smells like chemicals or is cloudy. Test the water chemistry levels and if they are too high you can vacuum debris from the bottom of the pool and fill it up with clean water.

References:

The truth about using algaecide in your pool https://www.swimuniversity.com/algaecid/

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Zodiac Australia offers pool equipment, pool care products, pool cleaners and pool maintenance supplies, including market leading brands such as Baracuda, Polaris, MagnaPool and iAquaLink.

If your pool has turned into a swampy, green mess, you should clean that water fast

Nobody wants a green pool. Cloudy water and algae growth are a big problem. But unfortunately, it’s one that almost every pool owner has to deal with at some point. For all of us who have dealt with a green pool, the goal is to get the water back to its crystal clear quality as quickly as possible.

After all, a green pool means it’s dirty. Bacteria and algae were allowed to thrive and grow. To get the water clean again, you need to determine what caused the water to become dirty and then fix the problem.

What caused the green pool water?

While the main reason your pool is green is bacterial growth, there are a few different things that may have happened that made the boom possible.

The first is improper pH balance. A healthy pool is between 7.2 and 7.6 on the pH scale. If your pool doesn’t have the right chemistry, the water will allow calcium and other minerals to build up and won’t kill the bacteria in the water. You need to check the pH of your pool when it turns green and see where you are.

The problem may not have started in the water but with the pool filter. If your filtration system stops working, it cannot remove algae. Once this happens, the water can become stagnant, causing algae, fungi or even mold to bloom quickly, leaving the water green and cloudy. If you think there is a problem with your filter, check the system and clean it with a brush and some water.

Green water can even come from the weather. Algae love warm, humid environments and sometimes the normal amount of chlorine just can’t keep up.

Make the pool water clear again

Once you have an idea of ​​what might be causing the green pool water, it’s time to clean it up. Always start by checking the water with a chemical test kit, or take a water sample to your local pool supply store.

The simplest solution – and the one you can hope for. When you have checked that the pH is normal and the filter is clear: add algaecide. Algaecides work to kill the spores in the water. If your area is prone to moisture it may be a good idea to use some during the peak summer months to limit any growth. Instructions will vary depending on which type you purchase. Always start with the minimum amount. If you still notice algae growth, slowly increase the dose until the problem is resolved.

When your water parameters drop, you need to perform a more extensive maintenance routine to balance the water chemistry and kill the bacteria and algae.

When treating your pool for algae you want the pH to be a little higher than you would normally want, at around 7.8. This kills the bacteria or algae. Depending on your levels, you will either need to lower or raise the pH.

If it’s too high, add a pH reducer. If it’s too low, add a booster. Your local pool shop can help you find the right product for your level. Before adding the product, you must turn on the pump that will circulate the water throughout the pool.

You will also need to clean and skim off any debris left in the pool and check the filter to make sure it is not clogged. Use a brush to scrub the sides and bottom to scrape away any algae that has stuck to the pool surface, then skim it off.

Once you’re done physically cleaning the pool, it’s time to shock it. With a high chlorine content, Pool Shock works to sanitize the pool and kill algae and bacteria. Since a green pool is very dirty, you will need around two to four times your normal maintenance shock. If you are unsure how much shock to use, consult your local pool professional.

If you are dealing with a lot of algae it may be necessary to shock the pool more than once. At first the water can be cloudy. As the water moves through the filter, it should clear. You need to keep an eye on the filter now. Since it works to clean the pool, it needs to be removed and cleaned regularly.

Again, use the pool brush to clean the sides of the pool and scrub the bottom. Vacuum up dead algae and dirt. Keep the filter running and keep an eye on the pool. If the algae return, you’ll need to shock the pool again.

Once the water runs clear, recheck the water chemistry and adjust the pH and alkalinity as needed.

Once the water levels are where they should be and the water is nice and clean again, you can finally enjoy the pool after all that work! Enjoy swimming!

Are you dealing with a green pool and not sure which products to choose or how to start the cleaning process? If after reading this guide you still have questions, feel free to call us and ask our team. We want to help you enjoy your pool this summer. Call 419-221-3494.

Why is my pool water green?

Here’s advice and input:

Your pool water has most likely turned green due to an algae bloom in your pool water. When you shocked the pool and added the copper algaecide, you may have oxidized the copper in the algaecide. What I would do if I were you is take a water sample (about 16 ounces) to your local pool shop and have it tested for metals.

Another possibility is that there is metal in the water that reacts with chlorine and turns green or brown. Many parts of the country have naturally high metal levels in the water, so this can be a problem any time replacement water is added to a pool. Use Natural Chemistry’s MetalFree or another chelating agent.

Algae is probably at the bottom of your pool. I had the same problem; The bottom of my pool was brown. I went to the pool shop and they told me to do the following: Raise the pH above 8 test PH. Next 1lb yellow and 1lb shock. Run filter, then brush and vacuum. Next 12 hours later, 1/2 bag of shock. Next 12 hours later 1/2 bag of shock. Test your chemicals, run the filter, brush, vacuum and you should be good to go. My pool is above ground; 4,500 gallons so talk to a pool shop.

Yellow is a shock. By the way, always read the product labels. Mixing the wrong chemicals poses health risks. Your pool water is green because your PH is out of balance and your chlorine is ineffective; As a result, your filtration system is not working properly.

Algae is certainly the cause of the green, but an imbalance in pH and/or alkalinity is why you have algae in the first place (while there is adequate chlorine). A very high or low pH greatly reduces the effectiveness of chlorine. I suggest you test and adjust your pH and alkalinity first (take a water sample to your local pool shop and have them test it if necessary). Once these are balanced, shock the water and use an algaecide. Leave the filter running 24 hours a day and vacuum the dead algae residue often – you will also need to clean the filter almost daily. Once the green begins to fade, add a blue clarifier to remove the dead algae from the water and get rid of any cloudiness.

The oxidation rate of your chlorine is affected by pH. PPM of your chlorine is just a quantity and oxidation rate is the quality of the water. To properly control a pool, you should use a pool controller that measures oxidation rate, or ORP.

The absolute solution for algae-covered pools: DRAIN, ACID WASH and REFILL.

Acid wash of an in-ground pool: Also known as drain; An acid wash becomes necessary when the pool has turned into the “black lagoon”. This can occur if the wintering process is not done properly or if the pool has been stagnant for a period of time allowing algae to take over. If you notice scaly, human-like creatures splashing around outside, it’s probably time to dump.

Our general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is that if you can see the bottom of the pool (the bottom), you can usually bring it back with chemicals, labor, and extensive filtration. However, once a pool has turned dark green or even black, algae and mold spores have lodged themselves in every porous depth of the pool surface and are difficult or impossible to remove with traditional cleaning and chlorination methods.

As a result, new mold, algae, and bacteria will continue to be created in the pool at an accelerated rate, causing the pool to turn green quickly, even though you may be vacuuming and chlorinating more. This wreaks havoc on your filter media such as sand, cartridges or DE and requires frequent media changes to remove the contaminants.

If the bottom is not visible, the cost of chemicals and labor is generally more than the acid wash fee and it takes much, much longer. In addition, extensive algal blooms permanently stain and adhere to plastered, concrete and shotcrete pools, making acid washing desirable.

At its simplest, an acid wash is the deliberate stripping away of a tiny layer of plaster or concrete, revealing fresher, undamaged and clean material underneath. Therefore, it is not advisable to make it an annual custom that will hasten the need for replastering. Most layers of plaster of paris (sometimes referred to as whitecoat or marcite) are more than 1/2 inch thick, so a couple of thorough acid washes shouldn’t hurt. Pools can also be washed with commercial bleach or pressure washed if the affected area isn’t too bad.

The cost of acid washing and draining a pool ranges from $900.00 to $1200.00 in Maryland, Virginia and DC. If your pool is filled with contaminated water and debris, the cost of draining and acid washing can range from $1600.00 to $2800.00 depending on the level of pollution and the amount of non-drainable debris that needs to be removed and disposed of by hand .

You can also opt for an acid wash, not for swamp conditions, mold, algae and bacteria, just to give a lighter, whiter finish. For mineral stains and/or scale, chlorine stains, even dirt stains…an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.

If your pool has had algae blooms for years and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just blooms very easily… changing the water and acid to wash the surfaces off with algae sticks can give you an algae-free summer and save you a bunch of lost pool time , Labor, filter media and chemicals.

Acid is a dangerous substance. The pool company’s staff is specially trained in its use and wears protective clothing and respirators during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash before pumping to a safe place. Permits may be required in many states.

If it’s a clear green, then it’s copper. Hazy green are algae. The best, safest, and cheapest way to remove the copper is to use alum. The same alum is used to make pickles; Just look down the spice island in the short bottles.

Liquid chlorine has the shortest shelf life of any of your pool chemicals, losing up to 50% or half of its effectiveness six months after first opening and up to 90% after a year. If your liquid chlorine is exposed to sunlight or extreme temperatures (like we have here in Australia) then this degradation will happen much faster.

Pro Buying and Storage Tip: Buy only enough unstabilized liquid chlorine to get you through the season and keep it in the darkest, coolest part of your storage shed. Also, make sure the lid is tightly closed after use to avoid reducing potency.

What are algae?

Algae is the general name for a large number of aquatic microorganisms capable of photosynthesis. You may be familiar with some types of algae, such as seaweed or pond sludge. The vast majority of algae live in aquatic habitats, and they are essential to the well-being of all aquatic life forms.

However, algae tends to be a nuisance in swimming pools and definitely not something you want to see swimming around you. That’s why eliminating algae is at the top of every pool owner’s list. Therefore, it is important to determine what types of algae have entered your pool and purchase the right algaecide to eliminate them.

Features to consider when buying the best pool algaecide

Aside from the type of algae you want to eradicate from your pool, there are other important factors to consider when browsing the different types of algaecides available on the market. These include durability, foaming, clarifying, stain removal and price.

algae species

Several types of algae can take refuge in swimming pools and although there are algaecides on the market that are effective against all of them, some products only work on certain types of algae, so it is important to identify them before purchasing a product.

Green Algae – This is the most common type of algae found in pools nationwide. They can often be seen swimming in the water, but sometimes they also appear on the walls of the pool. If you have green algae in the pool, the water will become less clear and you will likely notice that it has a greenish tint as well.

Yellow/mustard algae – this type of algae is much more difficult to control as it has a tendency to come back even after you’ve used products that initially make it go away. If you have yellow algae in the pool, you must act immediately.

Black Algae – This is by far the most difficult type of algae to control as its roots can extend into mortar or plaster. You can easily recognize this type of algae as it resembles tar.

Pink Algae – Pink algae appear in small patches and resemble fungi and are generally found in the corners, crevices and crevices of the pool.

permanent period

Each of these types of algae can be eliminated and their reappearance prevented with the help of algaecides. Some of the products we tested, such as B. the PoolRx Pool Unit #101066, our Editors’ Choice, are suitable for all types of algae, so they should be your first port of call, especially if you are unsure of the type of algae you are using. If you have or deal with more than one type in your pool or spa.

Duration of action refers to the time the product is effective after you apply it to the pool water. There’s nothing more frustrating than using a pool algaecide only to find a regrowth in the next week. Most of the products we have reviewed and included in our top guarantee 90 day protection but some of them are more efficient than others. The PoolRx Pool Unit #101066, our editors’ choice for example, has an extended term of six months.

seasonality

Since you want to protect your pool from algae all season long, look for products that will last at least three months. The same rule applies to water tanks in water rowing machines, since users usually don’t like changing water in them too often.

If you are looking for a product to apply before you close the pool for the winter, a product with a 6 month shelf life would be a good choice such as. B. the PoolRx Pool Unit #101066

stain removal

Some algae can pollute the pool, but you can easily solve this problem with the help of an algaecide that eliminates stains. Keep in mind that copper-based algaecides can foul the pools themselves, so handle with care.

Foam

Inferior algaecides tend to bring scum to the surface of the pool after use and this can be quite annoying as you don’t want to do the extra work of removing the scum along with the dead algae. You can avoid the extra hassle by choosing a product with a non-lathering formula that clears the water quickly so you don’t have to wait long before you can dip in the pool. In order to be able to completely prevent foaming, it is important to apply the product according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

clarification

Most users want their water to be crystal clear after using an algaecide. So if you’re one of them, look for a product that clarifies the water while getting rid of the algae.

Price

The price of pool algaecide depends on the quality of the product and the quantity you receive. For example, some products like the Pool Mate 1-2150-02 only come in two 1-quart bottles, so the total price you pay may be higher than other products.

Additional functions

You may want to look at additional features when purchasing pool algaecide with Pool Mate 1-2150-02. For example with a metal-free formula. If you plan to use the algaecide in a saltwater pool, look for a product specifically designed for this purpose, such as the Kem-Tek KTK-50-0006.

Tips on using pool algaecide

When using pool algaecides, it’s always a good idea to carefully review the manufacturer’s instructions. You should also make sure your pool’s circulation system is in good working order and make sure the sanitizer stays within the recommended range.

Also, to keep the pool in top condition, you should shock the pool weekly as this can eliminate the algae that the algaecide products may have missed.

Using a good brush to scrub the pool walls is a good idea if you want to keep the algae at bay, but you should also use a vacuum to remove the algae spores that settle on the pool wall and bottom be able .

You wake up one morning and your pool has gone from crystal clear to green and cloudy. Maybe someone forgot to wash their bathing suit or you lost your pool chemistry while on vacation. That happens to the best of us, don’t worry. Whatever the cause, you need to rid your pool of algae now.

No problem you might think. I’ll just get an algaecide. But before you reach for that particular pool chemical, ask yourself: is algaecide really the best way to get rid of algae? Despite the name, the answer is probably not.

What is algaecide anyway?

It may surprise you to learn that algaecides are not a silver bullet to get rid of algae in your pool. In fact, algaecide is more effective as a preventive measure than as a treatment. Don’t get us wrong – it still works as an algae treatment, just not in the way you might think.

How algaecide works

Many algaecides are based on copper – either copper sulphate or copper chelates, which are chemical compounds with a metal as the central atom. A few approved algaecides use the herbicide endothall or sodium carbonate peroxyhydrate instead.

These chemicals all disrupt the algae’s regular cellular processes, although research hasn’t really explained exactly how they accomplish this. They disrupt the energy transport or cell division of the algae, or they inhibit the synthesis of new cell proteins that are crucial for cell survival.

Basically, we know that algaecides work – to a certain extent – but the reason why they work is still unclear.

It’s important to note that if you live in an area with high metal content and have your pool filled with this water, you could risk oxidation which can foul your pool. Adding even more copper in the form of algaecides can speed up this process.

If that’s the case, look for a copper-free algaecide to protect your pool surfaces.

Our Top Picks Pool Algaeicide 60 (Copper Free) $40.99 A copper-free algaecide that helps prevent your pool from turning green. Buy Now on Amazon If you click this link and make a purchase, we will earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

You have no idea how lucky we are

Of the tens of thousands of species of algae in the world, we only deal with a handful. Sure, they’re a pain, but it’s not like we’re dealing with something crazy like “Red Tide,” which is extremely toxic to both animals and humans, or the adorably named “Rock snot” (Google it – we dare.

Algae fall into the protist classification range, which is the category biologists put things in when they have no idea what to do with them. We’re not kidding. The usual definition of protist is a eukaryote, or a cell with a nucleus that is “not a plant, animal, or fungus.”

Super helpful right?

But the lack of variety is really fortunate for us as it makes the algae we see easier to prevent, identify and treat.

The only algae you really need to worry about

The most common types of pool algae you will see and hear about are:

Green Algae: By far the most common, especially if you forget to wash your bathing suit after a swim in a lake.

By far the most common, especially if you forget to wash your bathing suit after a swim in a lake. Yellow or mustard algae: Much rarer, but a stubborn and particularly annoying uninvited bather.

Much rarer, but a persistent and particularly troublesome uninvited bather. Black Algae: The most difficult type of algae to eliminate.

Pink Algae or Pink Slime: Technically bacteria, but often confused with algae due to their slimy appearance.

Your best weapon against algae

So here is the most important thing you need to know about pool algae. Chlorine — yes, your typical sanitizer — is far more effective at killing algae than algaecide. Even if your water becomes cloudy and your walls slimy, chlorine can still kill it.

That’s because chlorine oxidizes bacteria and unicellular algae, which means they exchange electrons. It doesn’t sound like much, but this trade in tiny particles has a tremendous effect on algal cells. The oxidized cell walls rupture, leading to the loss of vital nutrients and halting both growth and replication processes.

So as long as you maintain your pool chemistry — that means 3 parts per million (ppm) for chlorine, 3ppm to 5ppm for bromine, or 30ppm to 50ppm for biguanide, in addition to balanced pH levels — you shouldn’t need algae growth fear.

Shock the Monkey – or in this case the pool

If your pool becomes infected from an outside source, shocking your water between intense scrubbing like it’s your full-time job usually fixes the problem. Algaecides can help speed up this process, but ridding your pool of algae isn’t strictly necessary.

Unless, of course, it is chlorine-resistant algae such as mustard or black algae. This is one of the few instances where you may need to consider using an algaecide. But even then, it should be used in addition to chlorine or other disinfectants, not in their place.

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Prevention is always easier than treatment

Regularly checking and maintaining your pool chemistry is the best way to prevent algae from taking root in your pool. The second best prevention method is to reduce the likelihood of outside contaminants entering your pool water.

That means if you’ve recently been to the ocean, natural lakes, or natural rivers, be sure to toss your swimsuits in the washing machine for a deep clean.

And if you have brought your usual pool toys, these must also be sanitized before putting them back in the pool. This means using a bleach solution or a bleach-based cleaner to ensure algae doesn’t get into your pool.

If you live near a natural body of water that you swim in regularly, there’s no harm in using algaecides in your pool as an extra precaution. If it’s a particularly sunny day — algae love sunlight — adding a preventive dose in the morning can reduce the risk of an algal bloom. Some manufacturers of algaecides put prevention instructions first on their packaging, as this could be an effective use of the product.

Pool protection out of season

One time you really want to add algaecide to your pool is when you close it. Your pool is likely to sit covered and unused for months, and this dark, humid environment is just perfect for algae to take root while you’re not looking.

Whether you’re closing an in-ground pool or winterizing your above-ground pool, make sure algaecide is on your list of essential closing materials.

Our Top Picks Pool Algaeicide 60 (Copper Free) $40.99 A copper-free algaecide that helps prevent your pool from turning green. Buy Now on Amazon If you click this link and make a purchase, we will earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Don’t bother unless you absolutely have to

Algae does exist, but you don’t usually need an algaecide to get rid of it. Keeping your water chemistry clean and balanced will stave off growth in most cases, while pool shock superchlorination can treat smaller and common pests. In fact, algaecides usually require a shock treatment prior to application anyway.

Our Top Pick Calcium Hypochlorite Pool Shock (Cal Hypo-Shock) This fast-acting, fast-dissolving pool shock from DryTec kills bacteria, fights algae and destroys organic debris in pools. It comes in easy-to-use 1 pound bags.

Consume the entire contents of the opened sachet. If granules settle to the bottom of the pool, use a brush to spread them out. Add this product in the correct dosage in the evening hours with the filter pump running. Buy Now on Amazon Buy on InTheSwim.com If you click this link and make a purchase, we will earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

So unless you’re dealing with mustard algae or black algae, leave the algaecide on the shelf and get ready to shock the hell out of your pool. But when it comes to regular old green pool algae, chlorine is your best bet to kill them.

Have fun swimming!

Matt Giovanisci is the founder of Swim University® and has been in the pool and spa industry since 1995. Since then, his mission has been to make pool and hot tub maintenance easy for everyone. And every year he helps more people with water chemistry, cleaning and troubleshooting.

Pool Algae Killer Quick Answers:

Algal blooms are an inevitable part of pool ownership. Maybe you had a rainstorm or a big pool party that messed up your pool chemistry. Or maybe you’ve slacked off on your pool maintenance a little. In any case, your pool may not be a comfortable place right now. As well as being unsightly, algae can be associated with a variety of problems including water bugs, irritants and infections, and damage to your pool’s finish.

In such situations, you can assume that algaecides are the best option for treating your pool water, but this is not always the case. In this article we will discuss the facts about algaecide, when to add algaecide to pool maintenance and everything you need to know to use it safely.

What is algaecide?

Algaecides can help you clean up cloudy green pool water like this one.

Algaecide, to put it simply, is a pool chemical that can kill or prevent algae from growing in your pool. In general, it works by disrupting some vital life processes in algae – possibly stopping photosynthesis or causing algal cell walls to burst. Algae killers work best with chlorine sanitizers to keep your pool water clean.

Choosing the right algaecide is crucial. The best pool algaecide may be different for everyone. This depends on your pool type, budget and current needs.

Copper-based algaecides are the most common, but if you’ve experienced metal stains in the past, or if you have a Baquacil pool, you might want to look at other alternatives. Many copper-based products tend to be insoluble in water with a pH above 7.

Polyquat or Quat algaecides are good alternatives that are also designed to inhibit pool algae growth. They are considered safer to use than copper-based algaecides. These algaecides do not stain, but quat algaecides can cause foaming which, if used improperly, can damage your filter. There is also the question of the effectiveness of Quat-Algizid. Polyquat will slow algae growth but will not completely prevent algae growth in your pool water.

When should I add algaecide to my pool?

Algae kills the algae and mold that infest your pool water, but it is best used as an anti-algae agent. While it doesn’t change the pH of your pool water, it does prevent algae growth and works with your chlorine sanitizer to keep these levels in balance.

Algaecide should be used after each shock treatment so it can better assist your chlorine as it works its magic. Make sure you shock your pool first, and when your pool’s chlorine levels return to normal, add the correct amount of algaecide in several spots around your pool while your pump is running. This helps the algaecide circulate. It’s important to know that using pool shock and algaecide together can cause bad chemical reactions if you don’t take the necessary precautions. Your chlorine levels will not normalize after shocking your pool anyway, so we recommend waiting at least 24 hours to add algaecide.

When adding algaecide to your pool, be sure to use the right amount. The number of gallons your pool holds will determine the correct dosage. Use our handy pool calculator for desktop, iOS and Android mobile apps to find the right amount to add and measure your pH after adding algaecide. Too much algaecide can cause foaming that can damage your filter. In some cases, too much algaecide can also cause eye and skin irritation.

In addition to adding algaecide after shocking your pool, you should add algaecide to your pool water when you close for the year. Dark, wet weather is prime time for algae growth, and you don’t want any surprises when you open it up again.

These kids love a clean pool to swim in!

Types of pool algae

There are different types of pool algae that can affect your pool water. Each of these problems is associated with a number of issues, and treatments may vary.

Black Algae: This type of algae usually appears in pool water when someone, after swimming in a natural body of water such as a lake, pond, ocean or river, does not wash their swimwear before getting into your pool

Green Algae: This type of algae is the most common and is usually the reason you notice green pool water. These algae are due to a lack of proper sanitation and filtration, which can result in high pH levels.

Yellow Algae (aka Mustard Algae): This type of algae is most common in southern climates, but is a rare algae problem in your swimming pool. It’s a different form of green algae, but it’s chlorine resistant.

Can Algae Kill Other Problems With My Pool Water?

Whitewater mold and pink slime are not algae, but rather a fungus and bacteria that can cause similar damage to your pool. Pink mucus can also be dangerous, causing pneumonia, urinary tract infections, and lower respiratory tract infections. Algaecides can be very effective in killing the white water mold that has settled on the surface of your pool water and the pink slime that has settled on your pool walls and floor. Whether you have a chlorine or biguanide pool, using algaecides will greatly improve the appearance and health of your pool.

White Water Mold

1. Clean your filter

Before adding algaecide to your pool, you should backwash your pool and force any debris out of your filter so it works best when circulating. Visit our website to learn more about backwashing a pool.

2. Balance your water

The pH of your water should be between 7.4 and 7.6. Use our pool calculator to easily track and measure your pool levels.

3. Shock the pool or add oxidizers

Depending on whether you have a chlorine or biguanide pool, you can shock the pool or add oxidizers at this point. If you are shocking the pool to treat whitewater mold, regular shock treatment is not enough. Quadruple the shock to three to four pounds per 10,000 gallons. This should bring the chlorine level up to 5 parts per million (ppm). You can’t use regular shock in a biguanide pool, so adding an oxidizer is your best option. In this case, add three to four gallons of oxidizer for every 10,000 gallons of water in your pool.

4. Brush the pool

After adding shock or oxidizer to your pool, use a brush to clean the walls and bottom of your pool. You should also do the same with your skimmer, jets and behind ladders and any shady areas where algae can grow.

5. Run the pump

Your pool water may look worse at this point, but you’re halfway there. Run your pump overnight or for 24 hours if possible to remove any debris from your pool water.

6. Brush the pool again

It’s tempting to think your pool water is clean at this point, but you’ve definitely missed a few spots. We recommend brushing your pool again and letting any algae settle to the bottom of your pool.

7. Vacuum the pool

Vacuum the pool slowly to ensure you pick up all algae and debris. If your pool is still cloudy after the debris has settled, you may need to add a clarifier or flocculant to your pool water. Visit our website to learn more about pool clarifier vs pool flocculant.

8. Clean the filter again

At this point, backwash your pool filter again and run the pump to ensure all algae has been removed.

9. Test and balance the water

Test your water again with our pool calculator to make sure the water level is balanced.

At this point you can enjoy your pool again. Monitor your pool for a few days to see if mold is returning and run your pump regularly. After five to seven days, you can add algaecides to complete the cleaning process. Algaecides work with the chlorine or oxidizer to kill the whitewater mold and prevent it from returning.

Pink slime

Removing pink slime from your pool surface is a similar process to whitewater mold and algaecide is also a necessary part of this treatment.

1. Clean your filter

2. Balance the pH of your water

3. Turn off the pump

You will soon be adding chemicals to your pool water and do not want to circulate those chemicals just yet.

4. Brush the pool

5. Add algaecide

Pink slime isn’t technically algae, so make sure you buy an algaecide that specifically treats pink slime, or pink bacteria. If you have a biguanide pool, you can’t use the pink slime or regular algaecide you would use on chlorinated water in your pool. Use the biguanide algaecide on your pool, measuring 16 ounces per 10,000 gallons of water.

6. Shock the pool or add an oxidizer

Again, regular shock or oxidizer treatment will not work to remove pink slime. Consider quadrupling the shock amount for a chlorine pool and the oxidizer amount for a biguanide pool.

7. Increase the sanitizer level from 30ppm to 50ppm to kill the pink bacteria in a biguanide pool

At this point, if you have a biguanide pool, make sure you bring the sanitizer level up to 50ppm to kill pink bacteria.

8. Let your pool rest

Leave your pump off and let the algaecide work overnight.

9. Vacuum the pool

10. Check the sanitizer level again if you have a biguanide pool

11. Clean the filter again

12. Run the pump

13. Test the water every day and maintain chlorine at 5ppm and sanitizer at 50ppm

14. Balance your water

Is algaecide safe for my pool and can I swim in it afterwards?

The greatest dangers from algaecides can be to your pool itself if not used properly. Copper algaecide can stain your pool walls, and quatalgicide can foam and damage your filter if used incorrectly, but when it comes to your family’s safety there is very little to worry about when used correctly. Aside from reducing the effectiveness of the algaecide if you or your family start swimming earlier than 30 minutes to an hour after application, there are no known health problems.

The number of algaecides available and whether it’s even the best option for your pool can overwhelm anyone. In the end, however, you can rest assured that whatever your choice, algaecide is safe for your family. Now that you’ve learned more about algaecides and their use case, we hope you’re feeling less confused and ready to get to work on your pool maintenance. If you would like to learn about additional pool chemicals used to balance your pool chemistry, check out our pool owner’s guide to muriatic acid.

Sources:

https://www.hunker.com/12000352/can-you-swim-with-algaecide

http://www.poolseason.com/faqs/

The benefits of algaecides for your pool

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/polyquat-algaecides-mode-of-action.46432/

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/effects-algaecides-pools-94091.html