Sebastopol Goose Hatching Eggs? Top Answer Update

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Sebastopol geese are a historic breed that originated in England in 1860. They were also known as Danube geese in Britain in the 19th century. The Germans may call them Lockengans or Lockengans und Struppgans, which means scruffy goose. They came to the US from south-eastern Europe around the Black Sea. They are named after the Russian city that exported them to the United States. They were admitted to the Poultry Association in 1938. A flock of geese can also be called a flock. Sebastopol geese are bred for meat and as ornamental geese or pets. The male is called gander and the female is called goose. The babies are called goslings. The goslings can swim 24 hours after hatching. A Sevastopol goose can lay 25 to 35 eggs every year. They lay large white eggs. They do not lay all year round, but in a few clutches. Ours was from February to April. Sebastopoles are good parents. The gander watches over the goose as it sits on its nest. He is very loyal and protective and keeps away all the deceased. The goose sits on its nest for 30 days. After hatching, the goslings follow the parents, eating grass and other greenery for sustenance. The goose and the gander are very devoted to their goslings. You will go one on the left and one on the right. When the goose is grazing, the gander watches over his family. He often waits for ganders and geese to sit and rest before feeding. When breeding Sebastopol geese, it is important to breed a curly with a smooth-breasted Sebastopol. If you breed a Curly Breasted with a Curly Breasted Sebastopol, you may end up with a completely straight feathered Sebastopol or have wing abnormalities.

The Sebastopols are docile and easy to keep when it comes to geese. They get loudest during the breeding and breeding season. My gander will come up and sit on my lap. He follows me around the garden and honks when he needs a pet or wants to be spoken to. He protects his gaze and me. He needs to be reminded that my children and other animals are allowed to come near me. He can be guided by gently grasping his neck and guiding him gently to his enclosure. Most of the time they are easily herded to their enclosure at night. But they seem to be waiting for us to tell them it’s bedtime. Then there’s some usual hooting, wing flapping, and then they waddle to their home.

Sevastopol geese are beautiful. They are usually white but colors can vary with striking blue eyes. The special feature is their long, curly, flowing feathers. Many people affectionately call them “Sebbies”. They were also called wedding dress geese. You can’t fly. However, they are very good watchmen and will let you know day or night if something is wrong. They are listed as an endangered breed on the Livestock Conservancy Board. They weigh between 10 and 12 pounds. And it is said that the females are darker colored than the males when they hatch. They can live up to 25 years if they live in a good, safe environment. Dogs and coyotes are their biggest predators.

Curious if the Sevastopol goose might be the right animal for your yard or home? In this guide, we’ll give you the information you need to make a decision.

The Sevastopol goose is a domesticated goose and one of the most popular breeds in this category.

They are known for their long, slender necks and webbed feet, which make them excellent swimmers.

This animal is a breed of domesticated geese originating from the city of Sebastopol. They are characterized by their long necks and slender bodies.

The geese can be used for eggs, meat or to keep the grass short on golf courses and other areas where they are raised.

Would you like to learn more about this unique species? Read on to find out if the Sevastopol goose is right for you.

History of the Sevastopol goose

The Sevastopol goose is a native breed of goose that is a descendant of the European greylag goose.

The exact story behind the origins of this bird is a bit murky. However, it is believed that the breed was developed somewhere in Central Europe along the Danube and Black Seas.

Other records suggest they originated in Crimea and were shipped from the port of Sevastopol before arriving in England.

In any case, Sebastopol was first shown as a recognized, distinct breed in England in 1860.

Shown under her current name – Sevastopol Goose – she was prized for her white, curly feathers, medium weight and bright blue eyes.

At the end of the 19th century they found him almost everywhere.

Aside from being raised for shows, Sebastopol geese were originally bred for their curly feathers, where people used them for quilting and pillow making.

In the past these animals were referred to as Danube geese, but they eventually dropped that name due to some confusion over an Irish geese breed of the same name.

They have a host of other nicknames too — for example, in Germany, Sebastopol geese are known as Strupp Guns or Lockengans, meaning “unkempt goose” or “curly goose,” both names due to this bird’s frizzy, tousled plumage.

Sebastopol geese quickly gained great popularity, not only for their appearance, but for many other qualities.

These birds have a calm temperament and don’t like to roam far—good news, as they’re relatively slow-moving and don’t like to fly.

They are good-natured, excellent foragers, and fatten up easily.

When it comes to breeding Sebastopol geese for more useful purposes, there are also many advantages. These animals make great sitters and moderate shifts.

They are good natural mothers too. They have never been used for large-scale meat or egg production and are more commonly raised for ornamental purposes.

Appearance of the Sebastopol goose

Most often, the Sevastopol goose can be recognized by its feathers curling downwards. These are mostly flightless birds.

Weighing around 10 to 12 pounds, these geese are not the largest you will find.

However, it is not their weight that affects their ability to fly, but their feathers. The rippling makes it impossible for them to breathe!

Sebastopol geese are usually white, but colors can vary. The feathers on the breed’s neck are usually smooth and sometimes grey-brown instead of white.

There are also colorcrosses that have produced buff, saddleback, and even all gray variants.

Breast feathers can be smooth or frizzy.

The birds have striking blue eyes, rounded heads, bulging eyes, arched necks, and keeled breasts.

Blue eye color is most common in the classic white Sebastopol, although some other variants produce birds with unusually brown eyes.

As previously mentioned, these geese are a medium-weight breed, with goslings weighing up to 14 pounds (and geese weighing 12 at most). Both thighs and legs are orange.

Something else worth noting about this breed of goose is that the feathers are remarkable in both their texture (the crumpled look!) and size.

They tend to be much longer than the average goose feather. Because of this, the Sebastopol goose looks like it has a lot more features than it actually has.

At first glance, a fleshy, compact bird looks larger than it really is because of these feathers.

It has a short back and a rounded, oval basket. His thighs are short and well muscled with equally short strong thighs.

Only one Sebastopol color is recognized – white. However, many breeders are working to ensure that different colored varieties are recognized.

Temperament of the Sevastopol goose

Sebastopol geese are known for being friendly and calm. They are perfect pets for families concerned about aggression issues when raising geese.

These birds are rarely hostile, tending to be on the shy side.

They are not as vocal as other breeds but can still be used as alarm animals as they will honk if something unusual is wrong!

However, they don’t broadcast nearly as far and wide as other geese breeds.

They’re accessible, easy to hold – and compelling to look at! Sebastopols also make wonderful parents, even when used as adoptive parents for other goslings.

They are prone to breeding, but occasionally suffer from fertility issues related to their plumage – something we’ll discuss in more detail below.

While all geese forage to some degree, those of Sevastopol are among the best at it.

They will enjoy pulling weeds in your garden and as they are not super heavy breeds they should not compact your soil too much.

Used for Sevastopol goose

Sebastopol geese are sometimes raised for eggs, but if you decide to do this, know that you won’t get as many eggs from your Sebastopol geese as you could get from your backyard chickens.

The average female only lays 25 to 35 eggs per year.

These are of course quite large. They’re bright white and big enough to replace three or four chicken eggs!

Sebastopol geese can be raised as reliable laying hens during the laying season between early spring and summer.

Although Sebastopol eggs are slightly smaller than those of other geese breeds, they are significantly larger than those of chickens or ducks.

Most often chosen for shows or as pets, they may also raise Sebastopol geese for meat.

They aren’t typically used commercially for this purpose, but if you decide to grow Sebastopols for meat, you should be able to process them after about six to 10 weeks.

This will help you avoid having pin feathers pulled out of the carcass as you will butcher the geese before they molt their young feathers and grow adult plumage.

Another benefit of raising Sebastopol geese for meat is that you don’t have to worry about an odd carcass side due to the lighter feather color of these birds.

It’s just a matter of aesthetics, but can result in a cleaner looking carcass when you’re ready to put it in the oven.

Lifespan of the Sevastopol goose

With proper care, Sebastopol geese can live to be two to three decades, with the average lifespan being around 25 years.

Because of this, it’s important to only breed Sebastopols if you’re up to the challenge. We’re talking about a lifetime commitment!

Sebastopol is royal and intelligent.

You may choose to keep them as a pet for a long time. But many people choose to slaughter them early in their lives when they are being raised for meat.

Reasons to love the Sebastopol goose

There are many reasons to consider rearing Sebastopol geese. For one, they are wonderful to look at.

The ruffled (usually white) feathers are attractive and unique, making Sebastopols a good choice for display purposes.

These geese are calm and friendly. They are also hardy and do well in colder climates, which is certainly not true of all geese breeds.

Not only that, these geese’s uniquely ruffled feathers make it difficult for them to fly. While this might be a disadvantage for some, it is an advantage for most people.

Disabled flight means less work trying to cage your geese – and less hassle with them getting onto your neighbors lawn to munch on the grass too!

What to look for in a Sevastopol goose

If you are interested in large-scale meat or egg production, then the Sevastopol goose is probably not the right choice for you.

These animals are not the most prolific in their egg and meat production.

However, they make excellent pets or show animals. However, there are a few conditions to consider here.

When raising Sebastopols for show, there are a few extra steps you need to take to ensure your animals stay in tip-top shape.

Keep your birds in clean, dry enclosures to maintain the health and appearance of their long, ruffled feathers. This can help you avoid broken or dirty feathers.

Some people give their birds unlimited access to bathing water.

While this can help flush the white plumage free of debris, some people do not recommend it as these geese’s feathers do not shed water like normal feathers.

This can cause the feathers to look unhealthy and frayed.

Instead, please place them in an enclosure with tall grass. This will help them brush themselves clean.

Just offer buckets of water for your animals to dip their heads in. This allows the body feathers to stay dry while still allowing you to maintain certain standards of cleanliness.

It is also important to limit overcrowding with these animals.

Not only can overcrowding affect the appearance of these feathers, but it can also reduce the likelihood of other health problems.

You may want to add extra protection during cold, wet and windy periods.

While Sebastopol geese are relatively cold hardy, their unique features can be a little loose fitting and don’t offer quite as much warmth as the feathers of other geese breeds.

When breeding your Sebastopol geese, you can mate one sex of one to four geese.

If you notice that fertility is poor, trim the feathers on the tail, back and around the opening.

What to look for when buying Sebastopol Goose

Buying Sebastopol geese is not unlike shopping for other geese species.

Look for animals that don’t have long, rectangular bodies. For example, find a goose with a rounded body when viewed from the side and from above.

It would help if you also avoided smooth breasts.

You should also pay attention to the suspension. Feathers on the chest should always be ruffled.

Primary and secondary wing feathers should not be stiff – instead they should be soft, long, and pliable so they curl easily.

Avoid birds with a lot of gray if you intend to use these animals for display.

A hint of gray in young birds is okay and usually goes away after the birds first molt. In adults, however, you should avoid any color except white.

If you plan on keeping these animals for meat production, know that you will end up with a well-rinsed, medium-sized carcass. Again, keep one male with two or three females for best results.

Is the Sebastopol goose right for me?

If you’re thinking about breeding a Sevastopol goose but aren’t entirely sure if this unique breed is right for your family or farm, we hope our blog has given you some insight.

We recommend doing plenty of research on the breed and consulting with experts before deciding on getting one yourself!

Consider these questions when deciding whether to raise a Sevastopol goose to make an informed decision:

1) What climate do I live in?

2) Do I have enough space for my new pet?

3) Is geese breeding legal where I live?

4) Will my neighbors agree?

5) How much time can I spend each day/weekend taking care of her?

After considering these factors and the Sebastopol goose traits listed above, you should have all the information you need to make an informed decision. Enjoy!

READ MORE: Raising geese to protect chickens

Sebastopol Goose Interesting Facts

What species of animals are Sebastopol geese?

The Sebastopol goose, also known as the Sebby, is a species of bird that belongs to the genus Greylag geese.

What class of animals do Sebastopol geese belong to?

The Sebastopol goose is part of the Aves class of the Animalia kingdom.

How many Sebastopol geese are there in the world?

The exact population size of this bird species is not known. They are critically endangered and only a few individuals remain. One of the main reasons for the population decline is meat farming and a low fertility rate.

Where do Sebastopol geese live?

The Sebastopol goose is imported from England and is found in many places including Southeastern Europe, the Black Sea and the United States.

What is the habitat of the Sevastopol goose?

In recent years, the Sevastopol goose is found mainly in domestic poultry farms. Their natural habitat is the savanna regions and grasslands. It breeds on high places and also lives in areas next to lakes and ponds. They like to live in water sources. These birds have lightly built feathers that don’t give off much warmth in cold weather. Therefore, they stay indoors or in well-protected places during the cold season.

With whom do Sebastopol geese live?

They live together in groups called gaggles. The name was given due to the loud noises they make as a group and unruly behavior within the group. The flock or group consists of a dominant male and two to three sentinels. A sentinel’s job is to look out for predators while others are feeding or breeding. The roles are swapped from time to time.

How long do Sebastopol geese live?

The lifespan of the Sebastopol geese is generally 25 years. However, they live longer, up to 30 years with proper care.

How do they reproduce?

The Sevastopol goose reproduces by laying eggs. The breeding season is between February and April. In general, a male can mate with three or four females. They lay about 25-35 eggs. The eggs are large and white. The eggs of this breed are twice the size of other duck eggs. After about a month, the eggs hatch. The adult Sebastopol geese are very good parents who take great care of the goslings. The goslings accompany the parents after hatching. They have poor breeding skills, so the fertility rate in this breed is only 45 percent. Artificial insemination is also performed in Europe. Cutting off some extra long and curly feathers on the back and providing a clean swimming area can increase fertility rates.

What is their conservation status?

The conservation status of the Sevastopol geese breed is Vulnerable according to the IUCN Red List. Their population size has declined due to high meat consumption and infertility.

Sebastopol Goose Fun Facts

What do Sebastopol geese look like?

Two variations are observed in the colors of the Sebastopol geese. They are either pure white or have light gray plumage mixed with white feathers. The white Sebastopols are the best known due to the bright blue eyes that complement other features. They have orange webbed feet. The neck is slightly curved and the beak is orange. This breed has large round heads. The grey, buff colored Sevastopol goose has brown eyes.

The feathers are soft and smooth. Based on breast feathers, they are categorized as smooth-chested Sebastopols and curly Sebastopols. They have feathers all over their bodies, wings and tails that can grow long enough to sweep the ground. Goslings have gray plumage on their neck feathers.

how cute are they

They are one of the most attractive geese breeds. They are bred specifically for ornamental and display purposes. The curly feathers and blue eyes never go unnoticed and receive many compliments.

How do they communicate?

The Sevastopol goose, also known as the Danube goose, is a very calm breed. It makes a deep oink or other soft noise. Males are slightly louder than females. The goslings let out deep croaks. Sevastopol avoids making unnecessary loud honking noises.

How big are Sevastopol geese?

Sebastopoles are medium-sized geese. They can measure 60 to 120 cm (23.6 to 50 in) and get even larger as their plumage increases.

How fast can Sebastopol geese fly?

Sebastopoles are not good fliers. Although they retain some flight characteristics, they still cannot fly often or at higher altitudes due to the presence of feathers all over their bodies. The chances of this breed taking off or flying a short distance are bleak.

How much do Sebastopol geese weigh?

Male sebastopoles are slightly heavier than females. A male’s weight is about 5.5 to 6.5 kg (12 to 14 lb) and a female’s weight is about 4.5 to 5.5 kg (10 to 12 lb). It is twice as heavy as a bean goose.

What are their male and female species names?

Like all other species, the females of the Sebastopol breed are called geese, and the males are called ganders. A group of geese is called a flock.

What would you name a baby Sebastopol goose?

Baby Sebastopol geese are called goslings.

What are you eating?

Sabastopols are omnivores. They consume grains, seeds, insects and grasses. They are hunted by many animals including stray dogs, wolves, foxes, rats, raccoons, bobcats and coyotes. Because of their bright colors and fluffy feathers, they can’t hide and are easy to spot from afar, making them a target.

Are they dangerous?

Not at all. The temperament of the Sebastopol geese is docile. This breed is very friendly. They are shy but mix well if raised from an early age. They are very rarely aggressive when they sense danger. The Sevastopol goose is very protective of goslings and can get angry if strangers are found near them.

Would they make a good pet?

Raising Sebastopol geese is not tedious work. They would be great pets. Because of their docile nature, this bird breed is considered one of the best picks in poultry farming. However, they are very expensive and may require a little maintenance. Because of the messy and curly feathers, they need to be cleaned quite often, unlike other waterfowl. These birds also require a clean swimming area for healthy egg production. Egg production in captivity can sometimes be lower.

Kidadl Note: All pets should only be purchased from a reputable source. It is recommended that you, as a potential pet owner, do your own research before committing to your pet of choice. Being a pet owner is very rewarding, but it also takes commitment, time and money. Make sure your pet choice complies with the laws of your state and/or country. They must never take animals from the wild or disturb their habitat. Please ensure that the pet you wish to purchase is not endangered or CITES listed and has not been taken from the wild for the pet trade.

Did you know…

The feathers of such breeds are loosely packed. Although fluffy, they often freeze if left lying in open grassland or savannah.

Several Sebastopol goose breeders and Sebastopol goose hatcheries are common in England.

Sebastopol goose eggs

The Sevastopol goose breeds between February and April. It can lay two to three clutches per year. The number of eggs produced per year can vary. They can lay an average of 25 to 35 eggs. Sometimes the production can be up to 40 eggs. The eggs are fairly large and white in color.

Why are they called Sebastopol geese?

The name Sebastopol was given to this breed because it was originally imported from the Russian city of Sebastopol. This breed was recognized by the American Poultry Association in 1938. In England in the 19th century they were also popularly known as Danube Geese. This name was given as they were constantly found in regions near the Dunabe River in Europe. Among Germans, this breed is known as a curling goose, which refers to the curls in the feathers.

Here at Kidadl, we’ve carefully compiled lots of fun family-friendly animal facts for everyone to discover! For more relatable content, check out these Musk Duck and Magpie Goose fact pages.

You can even keep yourself busy at home by coloring one of our free printable Sebastopol goose coloring pages.

Female ducks leave the nest to feed during the day. This is different from the behavior of nesting geese. The hen mallard that nests in the swamp behind our home makes a daily pond appearance. Her nest is well hidden in swamp reeds and weeds, her eggs are kept warm by the down she has plucked from herself. She comes out of the nest to drink, bathe, and eat the corn we scatter near the shore. In one study, blue-winged teals were out of the nest for an average of almost five hours a day. Geese, on the other hand, rarely leave their eggs unattended. They rely on food, which they build and store before laying eggs. Their nests are generally more exposed than ducks’, requiring greater vigilance. Female swans may be absent from their exposed nests as the male bird shares breeding duties.

The geese’s nests are exposed and require constant care from the bird. This Canada Goose is only stepping off her eggs to turn them.

You found an egg in the wild or saw an egg near an incubator on your farm. It’s important to find out if it’s alive with a flashlight or by candlelight because then you can take appropriate action to deal with it. If an egg rolls away from its nest in the wild or looks abandoned, be careful as it may be protected by law. For example, it is illegal to collect bald eagle eggs.

Things you need Flashlight

Toilet paper or paper towel roll

Warnings Be careful if you plan to remove eggs from the geese’s nest. Mother geese become very defensive and can cause injury. Use gloves and have a second person help you if possible.

Tips If you are not sure whether the egg is fertilized or not after candling, you can shine the light through a chicken egg from the store. If the inside of the goose egg looks the same, it is unfertilized. Any dark, solid mass indicates fertility.

Whether you want to incubate goose eggs yourself or let the gosling incubate them, it’s important to know if the egg is fertilized. Of course, if you incubate the eggs yourself, you don’t want to waste your time on unfertilized eggs. If you let the goose sit, you don’t want to leave it sitting for weeks on eggs that will never hatch. There are a few simple ways to tell if an egg is fertilized.

Let your goose sit on her eggs for a week after she lays them. If you incubate the eggs yourself, incubate them for a week.

Remove the eggs from the nest/incubator. Take a toilet paper or paper towel roll and shine a bright flashlight through it.

Place the eggs on the tube so the light shines through. A fertile egg has red blood vessels around the inside of the shell with a small dark spot in the center. This is the embryo that is beginning to form. All eggs through which the light shines directly are unfertilized and can be ejected.

Use an infrared device to look for heat spots to determine if the egg is fertilized or not.

If your geese are hatching their own goslings this year (hopefully!), you probably have some questions about the eggs and what happens to bad eggs.

Where do rotten eggs come from, what will your goose do about rotten eggs, and what should you do?

A goose may sit on bad (non-hatchable) eggs due to the frigid weather and the natural infertility of some eggs.

Unfortunately, once Goose Eggs are “bad”, there’s nothing you can do to fix them. This is all about preventive measures and making sure mistakes from last time don’t come back to catch you and your geese next year.

How much space do you need to breed geese? is an article I wrote that you might want to read if you’re thinking about raising your own goslings.

The fertility of goose eggs is 90%

90% of goose eggs are fertilized provided of course you have the right goose to goose ratio and have them all together before breeding season.

If you have the right male to female ratio, an acceptable feed ration, and you have them together for the required amount of time before mating (your couples have been together since Christmas, right?) then you should be at 90% fertility.

This means that 10% of goose eggs are not fertilized even under ideal circumstances. This is exactly where your goose starts with at least one unfertilized egg when it has a clutch of 10.

The crazy news regarding hatching goose eggs is that unless you’re really up to your game you probably won’t hit the 90% hatch, it’s more of a 40% hatch for eggs you put in lay your incubator!

Not all fertilized goose eggs hatch

Not all fertilized eggs hatch. There is a long way to go before a fertilized egg is laid and all the right things happen at the right time for the chick to hatch. When you think about it that way, reliably getting goslings from your pair is amazing!

Even eggs that look good and were laid in acceptable weather can and will have some unfertilized eggs, that’s the 90% thing.

Best Geese to Eat gives you my top picks for the best table goose.

If you’re not getting good results, consider your goose management

Nobody likes to hear it, but often problems with hatching are related to management, that is, people mess up the geese!

Now you know. If you’re not getting the results you want, as with almost all eggs that hatch, think about your management and see what you can improve.

If you find that you and your geese are far from the norm, are you missing something? Did you pair the geese too late? Did you have the right ratio of males to females? Did each goose have its own nesting site?

Also note that some breeds will be better mothers than others. If you’re not seeing the results you want, ask around to see what other people are getting with your same breed of geese if you hatch smart.

Here’s a look at some of our geese this spring. We’ll show you how we track which geese go down and which don’t.

Here is an example of a pair of my geese compared between last year and this year

For example, last spring I brought my young Sebastopol pair together about a month before nest building, oops, that was way too late! I told myself although they walk with other geese these two work as a pair so it will be fine.

No, it wasn’t. The first nest probably contained crossed eggs (it turned out!) so I took the eggs and hoped she would lay more. She didn’t. That was a mess and it was my doing.

This year they have been separated since the beginning of January and will have purebred goslings. Only two have hatched so far and the other eggs don’t look likely.

While that won’t bring me more goslings this year, it does help me assess the pair and whether I want to continue breeding. I’m not saying my management was perfect, but it was pretty good. Last year no, this year yes.

Plus the fact that the couple will be turning two instead of just being yearlings like they were last spring.

Are geese easy to breed? addresses the key needs of geese so you can see if rearing is working well for you.

Returning to the main point of this article, what becomes of the eggs that are still in the Sebastopol nest? I’ll give them a few extra days. It would be a shame to screw up because I’m impatient.

When the pair leaves the nest to roam for the day, I know they have abandoned the remaining eggs. I listen to the egg, you hear movement when the gosling is alive. Otherwise, she’s done for the year.

Group of grazing geese. Once the breeding season begins, the geese stay in pairs.

Eggs frozen in nest before nesting started

If your goose has laid her eggs in the nest and those eggs are then frozen in the nest, they will not hatch.

How could eggs freeze in the goose nest? Once she sits on it, the eggs stay nice and warm, but while she’s laying one egg a day to build the clutch, she’s still coming out of the nest and eating and drinking as usual.

When the cold snap comes, if she hasn’t finished building the nest, she won’t be on top of the nest to keep it warm.

What are you doing about it? We collect the eggs before a really cold night and put them inside, then we take them outside again the next day or when the cold weather has passed.

If you don’t want to collect the eggs, you can make sure she has enough bedding like straw to make a nice, insulated nest for the eggs. So they rely on her to construct the nest to be frost proof. That’s a maybe.

If you think your goose is in a frozen nest, you need to take a good look at the eggs. That means getting past her.

If she’s close to hatching, even a few days later, give her time and don’t disturb her.

If you play around with her now, she can get so upset that she will accidentally hurt goslings that hatched or left the nest and won’t come back if you got the dates wrong.

If the nest is new and the eggs are unattended, check the eggs. Any cracks? If so, they must go. If the eggs look good, put the nest back the way you found it and leave it alone.

If you find broken eggs and your goose is still laying, you can take out the broken eggs and hope she keeps laying to rebuild the clutch. That’s a maybe. But if the eggs are cracked, you have nothing to lose by trying.

The geese seem to know when something is shaking and will throw out bad eggs or just leave a ruined nest. In our experience, the goose won’t perish forever, it abandons the nest as soon as it knows it’s not working.

She’s sitting on an egg from last year

As crazy as it sounds, one of the reasons your goose is sitting on a rotten egg is because the rotten egg is still there from last year. This happened to us!

The geese seem to like the same few nesting spots each year, which is good. Unless they pull a “dead” egg from the previous nest when they are littered and end up in the new nest with it. Now there is a problem.

If this rotten egg breaks open, it will contaminate all of the other eggs in the nest, something they are unlikely to recover from.

Believe it or not, the growing gosling in the shell receives air exchange from the outside through the eggshell before the gosling itself can breathe.

This means the shell is permeable, which is good for air exchange, bad if there’s dirt on the outside of the eggshell. The same pores that allow air exchange also let in the contaminated dirt.

I found a rotten egg the other day. (The geese are going down as I write this.) She was out in the sheep field so had spent all winter outside (don’t know where) and still kept a good tank.

I know it didn’t lay this spring because the egg was too far away after I cracked it open. Super smelly. Sometimes the geese will lay an occasional egg outside in the grass so I figured that would be the case here, no!

Completely clean the geese nest site every year

The solution to dealing with last year’s rotten eggs is to completely clean the nesting area once the geese have hatched for spring.

You have plenty of time until the next breeding season to clean up the nest site, but it’s best to go ahead and clean it now.

Clean the nest area completely. Take out all the straw down to the bottom, including the surrounding straw for a foot or two on the outside of the nest.

In the straw next to the nest, the rotten eggs that were thrown out of the nest “hide”. These are the eggs that will screw up your hatch next year. Don’t take the risk of those eggs sticking around!

Place the straw and any nest contents, such as egg shells, on top of your compost pile. When the pile is dry, add some manure or water and give those bacteria time to work. This turns a potential problem into a great addition to your yard or garden!

I know this sounds a bit paranoid, but completely cleaning the nest and the area around the nest will save you from disappointment next year.

Because geese are so seasonal, it’s important to stack the deck in your favor from the start. A full cleaning between breeding seasons will give you a good start for a successful gosling hatch next year.

You might be thinking, “No way are these eggs going to get past my dogs, who like to eat old eggs and anything else out here trying to eat these eggs.” to.”

I would think so too, but we still find rotten goose eggs from the previous spring every year, despite the best efforts of the egg-eating wildlife and our dogs!

Clean the nests, it’s worth it.

Resources:

Egg production, incubation and sex identification of geese, NWS Department of Primary Industries, Here I obtained the 90% fertility and 40% hatchability numbers from an incubator

goose egg production

Peak egg season for geese is in spring, beginning around August or September. Chinese breeds can start laying in winter. Encourage early seasonal egg production so goslings are of marketable age and weight in time for the Christmas market.

Fertility is up to 15% higher and hatchability up to 20% higher in adult female geese than in 1-year-old geese.

Since geese usually lay in the morning, collect the eggs late in the morning to reduce the chance of egg breakage and collect the eggs at least four times a day.

Since most eggs are laid early in the morning, it is best not to allow geese access to swimming facilities until later in the morning, otherwise eggs may be lost. As previously mentioned, swimming improves geese’s general condition and helps keep them clean, which in turn helps keep the eggs clean.

Geese typically lay a clutch of 12–15 eggs and then go broody.

The early onset of egg production can be encouraged by:

Genetic Selection and Crossbreeding. Chinese breeds are better egg producers than Toulouse or Emden breeds, but their smaller bodies are a disadvantage. Crossing the Chinese breed with either Toulouse or Emden produces breeding stock with acceptable laying performance and carcasses.

. Chinese breeds are better egg producers than Toulouse or Emden breeds, but their smaller bodies are a disadvantage. Crossing the Chinese breed with either Toulouse or Emden produces breeding stock with acceptable laying performance and carcasses. Use of artificial light . As with laying hens, this leads to an early start of egg production (see Primefact 604 – Poultry lighting).

. As with laying hens, this leads to an early start of egg production (see Primefact 604 – Poultry lighting). Improved Nutrition. Place geese in brood pens as soon as they breed. If geese are allowed to breed unchecked, laying performance will be severely affected.

To reduce the incidence of egg breakage, provide nest boxes (shown at right) and encourage their use for laying. Line them with suitable nesting material, such as shavings or straw, and plan for a 50cm × 50cm nest box for every three geese in the flock. It is best to have nesting boxes in the shed and throughout the yard when using large yards.

incubation

Natural incubation produces the best percentage of hatched goslings. Using geese to hatch their own goslings is expensive and wasteful as geese do not lay while sitting on the eggs. Turkeys, chickens and muscovy ducks can be used satisfactorily to hatch goslings – best results are obtained with muscovy ducks (which are actually geese). Goose eggs can be hatched artificially, but the results are better when Muscovies are used.

Eggs should be collected at least twice (preferably four) a day, and since geese lay most eggs in the morning, the majority of eggs are collected in the morning.

Hatching eggs should be stored in a cool room at 15°C – an air-conditioned or refrigerated cupboard is ideal. Turn eggs daily (see Table 1). The longer the eggs are kept beyond 7 days, the worse the incubation results.

Choose only uncracked eggs that weigh at least 140g and no more than 200g. Clean soiled eggs by rubbing lightly with steel wool and wiping with a clean, damp cloth. Eggs must be handled and stored this way, regardless of the method of incubation.

Eggs can be disinfected by fumigation immediately after collection.

The actual hatching season of goose eggs varies slightly by breed. Some eggs from lighter breeds may begin to rupture after 28 days, while eggs from larger breeds may take 35 days. It can take up to 3 days to complete hatching.

Natural incubation

Depending on the size of the bird, 4–6 eggs can be laid under a brood hen, while a muscovy duck can sit on 6–8 eggs. Since the eggs are too large for most hens to turn themselves, turn the eggs by hand daily when the hens leave the nest to eat and drink. After 15 days, the eggs should be sprayed with lukewarm water each time they are turned.

On the 10th day, fluoroscopy can be performed, i. H. passing the eggs under a bright electric light to see the contents, and any unfertilized eggs are removed.

If one goose is to be used to hatch the eggs, 10-15 eggs can be placed under them (the number of eggs depends on the size of the eggs and the size of the goose). If geese have access to swimming, there is no need to spray the eggs with water.

artificial incubation

If the machines aren’t managed properly, goose eggs don’t hatch very well in artificial incubators. The hatch rate is often no more than 40% of the egg lay, although fertility is around 90%. This is due to poor management and because the incubators available in Australia are not made specifically for geese.

For blower machines, maintain a constant temperature of 37.5°C throughout the incubation period. The desired humidity is reached if the wet-bulb thermometer is kept at a value of 32.2 °C until the 29th day. Then raise the temperature to 34 °C for the remainder of the incubation period, using humidity trays and regulating aeration.

Incubators with slow air movement over the eggs hatch goose eggs better than those with fast air movement. Slow air movement ensures full distribution of air over all parts of the egg to maintain even and even evaporation.

Experiments in France with 2000 eggs in eighteen incubators confirmed the need to place eggs horizontally (see Table 1).

Table 1. Results of laying eggs at different angles* Egg type Hatchability Eggs laid on pointed end Eggs laid horizontally Turning angle Turning angle 90° 120° 90° 120° 180° All eggs laid 49.0% 66.6% 69.2% 69 .8% 69.2% fertilized eggs 64.0% 85.3% 86.2% 88.9% 89.4%

* Research Center Artigueres, France

In the incubator:

Best results are obtained when the eggs are completely turned at least four times a day, ie. H. by an angle of 180° (as shown in the figure on the right) and not 90° as in chicken eggs. The best hatching results are obtained when the eggs are laid horizontally.

The eggs must be evenly distributed in the incubator when the machine is not full. The temperature of the machine should be 0.2°C higher when the machine is less than 60% full.

Since goose eggs need high humidity, they should be sprayed with warm water daily. After the 15th day of incubation, the eggs should be completely immersed in 37.5°C water every other day, then daily for 1 minute during the last week of incubation. Alternatively, fine nozzles can be installed in the incubator, which spray water at a temperature of 37.5 °C when required.

In the breeder:

The eggs should be transferred to the hatcher on the 27th day of incubation unless experience shows the eggs are less than 30 days old.

Eggs should only be dipped or sprayed in water once after transfer, as previously noted.

The temperature in the brood chamber should be maintained at 37°C and the relative humidity at around 80%. After peak hatching, reduce to 36.5°C and 70% humidity.

Leave the goslings in the incubator for 2-4 hours after hatching and then transfer them to the brooders.

Cleaning the incubator

Thoroughly clean and disinfect all incubator trays and incubators when not in use. Gas incubators with formaldehyde gas produced by combining formalin with potassium permanganate (Condy crystals). Note: A respirator with an appropriate gas cartridge filter should be used in the presence of formaldehyde.

Fumigation of the incubator:

Turn off the engine. Place the required amount of potassium permanganate in an earthenware container on the bottom of the incubator and pour the required amount of formalin over it (25 g of potassium permanganate and 35 ml of formalin (40%) are enough to gas 1.0 m3 of incubator space). Run the device for at least 10 minutes at normal operating temperature and maximum humidity with the incubator door closed. To prevent operators from being overwhelmed by formaldehyde fumes, open the incubator room doors and windows to provide ventilation before opening the incubators.

Sex determination of geese

The sex of mayday goslings can be identified by examining the vent, similar to chickens. Sexing day-old chicks is best left to a qualified chicken sexer, as an inexperienced person can damage the sex organs.

With some experience, you can recognize Maya Geese by holding the legs firmly between the first and second fingers of the left hand, the neck between the third and fourth fingers and the chest away from you. Then, use your left thumb to gently press down on the belly while simultaneously pressing down on the tail with your right hand’s thumb and forefinger. Do this quickly to remove bowel contents and make examination easier.

The vent is then everted by gently pressing on the abdomen with the thumb of the left hand near the vent. Simultaneously place the index finger and thumb of the right hand close together on the opposite side of the orifice and slowly separate them with a gentle but firm pressing motion, stretching and inverting the cloaca to expose the penis if the gosling is male .

Adult birds (i.e. birds over 7 months of age) can be identified by physical examination. Identification will be easier if two people are available. One method of exposing the penis is to use one hand to push the cock towards the head and the other to apply steady downward pressure on the stomach.

The vent is then everted and the organ exposed. The spiral and white penis is just over 1 cm long in immature birds, but up to 4 cm long in adult ganders. The color of the area inside the gander’s mouth is pink and the surface is smooth.

Images of the exposed reproductive organs of an immature male, mature male, and mature female help with gender identification:

It is difficult to distinguish the sex of juvenile goslings from adult birds except by examining for the presence of the male’s penis. The characteristics listed in Table 2 can also help you distinguish the sexes:

Table 2. Characteristics of Ganter and Goose Ganter Goose A high-pitched, shrill voice

Slightly larger body

Slightly longer neck

bigger head

Button at the base of the upper beak in Chinese geese

Go outside when the herd approaches. A harsh, hoarse scream

Soft belly and wide pelvic bones in laying geese

Tag birds by gender with leg bands, mesh punches, or wing bands.

Watching geese at your local pond is a great way to connect with nature. However, wild geese are extremely secretive when it comes to laying eggs, making it more difficult for you to learn about their habits. You may be wondering when geese start laying eggs?

Female geese begin laying eggs as soon as they are sexually mature, around 2 years of age. Some geese can start laying as early as 9 months old. Geese usually lay their eggs from February to May. Most goose eggs are laid early in the morning just before sunrise. They lay eggs every other day until they have a clutch size of about 2-10 eggs.

Laying goose eggs is extremely interesting. So if you want to learn more, read on. This guide will walk you through any questions you may have.

Let’s get in.

When do geese start laying eggs?

This question can be answered in many different ways. Would you like to know the age of the goose, the season or even the time of day? We briefly answered that for you above, but let’s take a closer look.

At What Age Do Geese Lay Eggs?

Female geese must be sexually mature before they can begin laying eggs. This age is entirely dependent on the goose species.

Some species begin laying eggs as early as 9 months of age. Other species only start laying eggs when they are about 4 years old. Smaller geese species tend to lay eggs much earlier than larger breeds.

The average age at which a goose starts laying eggs is 2 years.

If a goose lays eggs too young, it will affect their ability to lay eggs in subsequent years. This is very important as geese only have about 4-5 very fertile seasons in their lifetime.

The time of year a goose is born affects its age during the breeding season. An early hatched female goose becomes sexually mature in late winter to early spring. This is the natural mating season for geese.

A goose born later in the year misses this first mating season. They then have to wait until the next year to lay eggs. That is why there is such a diversity between the age groups that geese lay their first eggs.

What time of year do geese start laying eggs?

Geese are seasonal breeders. Late winter to early summer is when they lay their eggs.

Geese do not need as much sunlight as other waterfowl like ducks to lay their eggs. They can start laying eggs without just about 10 hours of sunlight per day. Therefore, geese can lay their eggs as early as mid-February, which is still the winter season.

By laying their eggs earlier in the year, the young geese have a better chance of survival. Especially through their first winter or migration. Being even a few months older makes the goslings less vulnerable during this harsh time of year.

Geese lay their eggs well into the summer, usually by mid-May at the latest. If you stop afterwards, the goslings have time to learn to fly before the flock departs in September or October.

What time of day do geese lay eggs?

Geese usually lay their eggs in the morning. However, they can lay about 30% of their eggs at different times of the day.

Depending on the species, geese typically lay eggs about 36 to 55 hours apart. This means they are much less predictable as to when an egg will be laid. The interval between the laid eggs can be from 1.5 to 2 days.

This all adds to the secrecy that geese employ when laying their eggs. The unpredictable nature gives geese an edge over predators who cannot predict when a new egg will be in the clutch.

Hormones are the main trigger when geese lay their eggs. These determine the time between the individual laying of eggs.

The timing of the last egg affects the laying time of the next egg. That’s why geese only lay an egg every other day, with no set laying routine.

related questions

How many eggs do geese lay?

Geese usually lay around 2-10 eggs per clutch. They lay these eggs every other day depending on the time the last egg was laid. That means geese don’t lay an egg every day.

Wild geese only lay one clutch a year. Once these eggs are laid, the geese will not have another clutch.

Wild geese usually live to be 10-15 years old. Although the female reproduces only about 4-5 of those years. They will continue to produce small numbers of eggs after this time, but they will likely remain unfertilized.

Do geese lay eggs without a male?

Female geese do not need a male goose (gander) to lay eggs. Even if there is no male around, a female will lay her eggs quite normally.

The difference is that without mating with a gander, the eggs remain unfertilized. This means that the eggs will not develop into a gosling. These are left only as the yolk and white, just like you would buy at a grocery store.

Female geese still incubate an unfertilized egg. They stay on these eggs for about a month. A goose clutch can usually be a mix of fertilized and unfertilized eggs. If an egg doesn’t hatch, they will eventually abandon it.

The unfertilized eggs can often become a food source for other wildlife such as raccoons, mink, and snakes.

What are signs that a goose is ready to lay eggs?

Although geese are very secretive about their oviposition, they are showing some signs that they are about to start oviposition.

First, the females will start looking for secret places to build their nests. You want to find a place that is close to the water but also well hidden. Often they like a slightly elevated area that is well covered by tall vegetation.

Next, the goose will start collecting many different materials that they come across that can be used to build their nests. They use grasses, moss, dead plants and feathers. The male geese can also help them with this.

You may even notice that the female is beginning to lose some of her feathers. This is because the females pull out their own feathers to line their nests.

When will geese stop laying eggs?

Female geese lay eggs for about 10-15 years. On rare occasions, some may lay them even longer.

Although geese can lay eggs for so long, they are usually not of good quality. They will not be fertile enough to produce goslings well past their first 5 breeding seasons.

Older geese lay far fewer eggs than younger, fertile geese. They usually lay 2-5 eggs during the season. The older they get, the less they lay.

Fertile geese in the wild will no longer lay eggs once they have a full clutch during the breeding season. They will not produce any more eggs until next year’s breeding season.

Both wild and domestic geese are seasonal and stop laying eggs at the same time of year.

Final Thoughts

Wild geese are ready to lay their eggs when they are about 2 years old. However, some can start as early as 9 months if born early enough.

Geese are very seasonal laying hens and have a short oviposition period between February and May. If the geese are not fully grown by this time, they will not lay eggs. When fully grown, she will lay up to 10 eggs and then stop incubating.

Geese only lay one clutch per season and once these goslings hatch they will not lay any more eggs until the following year.

Female geese produce eggs for most of their lives. However, once they are past their fourth or fifth breeding season, their fertility drops drastically. Geese raise goslings much less often after this period.

Children’s Virtual Hospital: CQQA: Head Injuries

Pediatrics Frequently asked questions, quick answers

head injuries

Donna D’Alessandro, MD

Lindsay Huth, B.A.

Peer Review Status: Internally reviewed

Creation date: October 2001

Date of last revision: April 2002

Frequently asked questions, quick answers

What are head injuries?

Head injuries can be either external injuries or internal injuries.

External injuries usually affect the scalp.

Internal injuries can occur to the skull, to blood vessels within the skull, or to the brain.

Internal injuries are generally more serious than external injuries.

What Causes Head Injuries?

Children can be injured if they fall and hit their head or hit their head on something.

Children can sustain head injuries while playing sports.

Other accidents (e.g. car accidents) can cause head injuries.

What are the symptoms of a head injury?

External injuries When children fall, they usually sustain external head injuries. These injuries can startle both the parent and the child, but they are usually not serious.

The scalp has many blood vessels. Even small cuts on the head can bleed profusely.

If your child hits their head, it may swell in one spot.

It can take days or weeks for this bump on the head or “goose egg” to go away.

A bigger bump doesn’t always mean a more serious injury. Big bumps can be minor and small bumps can be serious.

Internal Injuries Older children are more likely to be involved in activities that could result in an internal head injury

Call an ambulance if your child shows signs of internal injury:

Loss of consciousness, child is not alert or awake.

Breathing is not normal.

serious wound.

Severe fracture (damage to bone or skull).

Bleeding from the eyes, nose, ears or mouth.

language is not normal.

Changes in vision or pupils are not equal.

Feeling weak, dizzy or unable to move.

Neck hurts or is stiff.

seizure.

vomiting, wet pants, or loss of bowel control.

How are head injuries treated?

External injuries are usually not serious and can probably be treated at home. If signs of internal injury (see list above) appear, call a doctor or ambulance immediately. While waiting for help, do the following:

External injuries Put an ice pack or instant cold pack on the injured area for 10-15 minutes. Always wrap the ice in a washcloth or sock. Applying ice directly to bare skin can cause frostbite.

Monitor the child closely for 24 hours. If she shows signs of internal injury (see list above), call the doctor right away.

If your child is upset, they may vomit right after the injury. Vomiting once is okay. If she vomits more than once, call your doctor.

If your child naps or falls asleep shortly after an injury, check every few minutes. Notice changes in breathing, changes in the color of their face, or twitching of their arms and legs. Let the child sleep if everything is normal.

If the child doesn’t look normal, wake them up a little. let her sit up She should be a little upset and want to go back to sleep.

If your child is not upset or unresponsive, wake them up fully. If you cannot wake her up, call your doctor or an ambulance immediately. Internal injuries

CALL YOUR DOCTOR OR AN AMBULANCE IMMEDIATELY. If your child is unconscious. Don’t move the child. Moving them could cause further injury. Do not move the child unless it is in an unsafe place.

If there is a possibility of a neck or back injury, keep your head still. Place your hands on the sides of her head to hold it in place.

If she vomits, tilt your whole body to one side and keep your head in line with your body.

If she’s not breathing, give mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. If your child is conscious, keep them calm and still. Do not move them if there is a possibility of neck injury. If this happens, place your hands on the sides of her head to hold it in place.

If she vomits, tilt your whole body to one side and keep your head in line with your body.

If she has a seizure, keep her mouth clear.

If you think the skull may be fractured, apply some pressure to the wound. Don’t press too hard.

If swelling occurs, press an ice pack or cold pack against her head with firm pressure.

If it bleeds, put a clean bandage around your head.

Do not clean the wound or remove any object that is in the wound. This could lead to more bleeding.

How can head injuries be prevented?

Throughout the day, children sustain minor injuries, even if you are careful.

Make your child’s play areas as safe as possible, but be aware that minor injuries can still occur.

When should I call the doctor?

Call the doctor if your child has a head injury or if your child is younger than 2 years old.

Call the doctor if you think your child has an internal head injury.

Call the doctor immediately if your child loses consciousness, even for a short time.

Call the doctor if the person with the head injury used drugs or alcohol.

Call the doctor if you suspect the child was abused.

quick answers

Head injuries can be either external injuries or internal injuries.

Children can sustain head injuries when they fall, hit their heads, or play sports.

Your child may get a bump on their head if they fall. Bumps are usually not serious. If you think your child has an internal head injury, call an ambulance.

Minor head injuries can be treated at home. Serious injuries require immediate medical attention.

Throughout the day, children sustain minor injuries, even if you are careful.

Call the doctor if you think your child has an internal head injury.

references

The Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia. Superficial injuries to the face and head. 1996-2001 (cited September 6, 2001). Available at: URL: http://WWW.CHOP.EDU/cgi-bin/consumer/your_child/condition_section_index.jsp?id==8408&printable=1

Dowshen, S M. D. Head injuries. children’s health. April 1998 (cited September 6, 2001). Available at: URL: http://www.kidshealth.org/PageManager.jsp?dn=Kidshealth&lic=1&ps=107&cat_id=article_set=21651

NASD. First aid for head injuries. University of Maine: Cooperative Extension. (cited September 6, 2001). Available at: URL: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/nasd/doc3/me97008.html

A goose will only sit on her eggs when she is ready to hatch them. Young geese in their first year often start brooding but give up before eggs can hatch. Two-year-old geese are generally much more reliable mothers. Because of this, your goose may not be sitting on its eggs.

Do geese leave their eggs unattended?

Yes, brood geese leave their eggs so they can eat, drink and bathe. It’s normal behavior for them to do this for up to an hour a day.

It is really very important that your brood goose leaves its nest for its own well-being. Also, when she bathes, she brings moisture back into the nest on her feathers, creating the right level of moisture needed for the eggs to hatch properly.

Sometimes young geese brooding for the first time refuse to leave their nest. This is very dangerous for the goose, since without food and drink it can die in the nest.

If you have a goose that refuses to leave its nest, you have to force it every day. You may have to pick them up and make sure their feet don’t break the eggs. Older geese are usually much better at getting out of the nest each day than younger ones.

When examining your goose and her eggs, try to feel her weight and make sure she isn’t getting too thin. If absolutely necessary, you can finish the eggs in an incubator or under a brooding Muscovy duck.

How do you get a goose to sit on eggs?

You can’t force a goose to sit on eggs, but you can encourage it by providing a really inviting nesting site. Give her a good deep bed of shavings in a quiet and sheltered spot.

A large brood house (nest box) built just for brood work is the best option. It’s essentially a goose house for one. Geese like to feel safe when incubating eggs, so avoid letting the goose look outside the nest box.

By replacing all of the eggs your goose lays with replica ones (I use blown goose eggs filled with plaster of paris), you can fool her into thinking she has a full clutch. When she starts hatching, simply replace the “fake” eggs with some of the real ones you’ve collected.

How long does a goose sit on eggs before they hatch?

The normal incubation period for a goose varies between 28 and 35 days. Even if you use an incubator the time can still vary greatly, but in my own experience most hatch around the 32nd day.

When the eggs begin to hatch, it may take 2 or 3 days for all of the goslings to fully emerge from their shells. While they hatch, the mother goose will chat with her babies and keep them safe and warm under her for a few more days.

Eventually the goslings will come out to see the world and after a while the goose will leave the nest and any unhatched eggs. The goose then brings its young to food and water.

It is common for the gander to take responsibility for the brood as well, and often the mother goose will leave her goslings in its sole care.

This video shows some of the signs that a goose is about to nest so you know what to look out for.

How many eggs does a goose lay before sitting on them?

There is no set number of eggs that the goose will lay before it begins perching, but generally it’s around 6 to 10.

I’ve seen a goose try to sit on much larger numbers than this, but the problem is that some of the eggs are probably already dead and the eggs are getting cold on the outside, so you’ll gradually have more and more viable eggs to lose .

For this reason, it is better to limit the number of eggs to a maximum of 10.

Once your goose starts sitting on her eggs, it’s a good idea to deworm her. That’s because worms can grab a goose when it’s down. It will also help protect the goslings when they are born as gizzard worms can kill them.

Another problem with brooding geese is that when one is brooding, another is often brooding too. Sometimes they try to incubate the same nest, which will be a disaster, so make sure a second brood goose is removed and kept away from the first.

How to hatch goose eggs

Goose eggs can be hatched naturally with a brood goose or with an incubator. Musk ducks are also good at hatching goose eggs and are very reliable babysitters and mothers.

After laying, a goose egg can remain viable for about 7 to 10 days. After this time, the chances of successfully hatching the egg decrease significantly with each passing day.

To hatch goose eggs using an incubator, you need to make sure it’s set up correctly:

1. Temperature

The temperature of your incubator for hatching goose eggs needs to be around 99.5°F. Unlike other poultry, where the temperature may need to be changed at different times during incubation, goose eggs do not, and a constant temperature can be maintained.

2. Moisture

Humidity for hatching geese eggs is quite specific – the first 27 days the humidity needs to be between 50-55%. Then increase the humidity to 75% for the rest of the time.

To maintain proper humidity levels, remove the eggs each day and mist them with a mist of warm water before returning them to the incubator. This also mimics the natural way a mother leaves her nest each day.

Some people submerge the eggs in water heated to 99.5°F for a minute every other day beginning on day 15 of incubation and then daily for the last week until just before hatching.

3. Prepare your incubator

Each incubator has its own specific setup process. You usually have to set it at the right temperature for 24 to 48 hours before you put the eggs in it. This allows the temperature and humidity to stabilize.

If you store your eggs before placing them in the incubator, it’s best to keep them in a cool place between 59°F and 60°F. They must be kept in a horizontal position and turned daily.

Select the best eggs by making sure they are uncracked and a good weight, between 5 and 7 ounces. Dirty eggs can be cleaned with a damp cloth, this is important as dirt can cause disease and prevent candling.

4. Placement in the incubator

French studies have shown that goose eggs are best laid on their sides horizontally rather than on the fat ends like eggs from other poultry.

5. Turn

Turning goose eggs is a little different than other poultry. They must rotate a full 180° four times a day. To remember how around they were, you should mark each egg.

Usually, one side of the egg is marked with an X and the other with an O. That way you can better keep track of which direction to put them.

This is useful when turning eggs by hand or using an automatic egg turner.

6. Fluoroscopy

To check if the eggs are developing and to make sure they still contain a live embryo, you can x-ray them.

Because of their thick shells, it can be harder to see what’s going on inside than with chicken eggs. Be patient and make sure to candle her slowly to make sure you haven’t missed a fertile egg.

Eggs should be candling after the first 7 to 10 days of incubation. Prior fluoroscopy makes it too difficult to detect the presence of an embryo.

You can further screen them through their development. Be sure to discard any that do not develop or form a halo that indicates embryo death.

7. Hatching

Don’t dip or spray your eggs after day 26. Now the wait begins. As the eggs begin to throb, you’ll see the tip of the gosling’s beak begin to puncture the shell.

You can now only slightly reduce both humidity and temperature, which encourages hatching. It can take up to three days for the goslings to fully hatch.

After hatching, leave the goslings in the hatcher for a few hours before hatching.

8. brooding

Find a suitable place to nest your goslings. It should be closed, easy to clean, easy to keep warm, draught-free but well ventilated.

To start, you need to keep them warm with either a heat lamp or a heat pad. Gradually reduce the temperature from 30°C to 22°C over a period of about five weeks.

If the weather is warm and sunny you can take them outside for long periods provided they can be safely kept from around two weeks of age.

Goose eggs are more difficult to hatch than other poultry. It is normal to have a much lower hatch rate. Don’t be put off by this, however, as hatching goslings can be rewarding.

Conclusion

It is not uncommon for a goose to go broody. Young geese often start sitting on their eggs and then give up or don’t get off at all and lose weight.

Therefore, if you want to hatch a couple of goslings, it is better to leave the work to a two-year-old goose or a willing Muscovy duck.

Geese only sit on their eggs when they are incubating, and that cannot be forced.

It is better not to leave real eggs in a nest to encourage broodiness, but to use fake eggs. It is also important for success that the goose has a nice, quiet and safe place to hatch.

If you found this article useful, you may also like others in our Goose series. Here’s one about geese hissing, or this one about cooking goose eggs.

Hatching eggs in a home incubator is one of the most addictive parts of the backyard farming hobby. There are few things more satisfying than watching new life sprout from the eggs you’ve painstakingly incubated for weeks. One of my favorite fowl species that I hatch and raise myself are geese. Geese are good meat birds, growing quickly and providing plenty of meat, and they’re also easy to care for. In this article we will talk about how to hatch goose eggs in an incubator at home.

Incubating Goose Eggs – The Basics

If you want to have good success hatching your goose eggs, you need to master the basics before anything else. So, let’s talk about the basics of incubating goose eggs:

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Incubation period: 28-35 days depending on the breed

28-35 days depending on breed Incubator temperature: 37.5°C (99.5°F)

37.5°C (99.5°F) Incubator Humidity: 55% or 84.5°F when using a wet-bulb thermometer

55% or 84.5°F if using a wet-bulb thermometer Turn eggs: 4 times a day

X-ray eggs 4 times a day: days 7 and 14

Day 7 and 14 lockdown date: Day 27

Day 27 lockdown temperature: 37.2°C (99°F)

37.2°C (99°F) Lockdown Humidity: 75% or 91.7°F when using a wet-bulb thermometer

Hatching goose eggs is an exercise in patience. Your goslings hatch after about 28 days. Some breeds take up to 35 days. Sometimes they can pop out earlier, sometimes later. It all depends on the egg! You will find that some clutches hatch at about the same time and others hatch days apart.

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Their eggs must be incubated continuously at 37.5°C (99.5°F) for up to 4 days before hatching. During the last 4 days of incubation, humidity is increased and temperature slightly decreased.

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Candling your goose eggs on day 7 of incubation and again on day 14 is an important part of the process. It helps you determine whether or not your eggs are viable and allows you to discard non-viable eggs before they become a health hazard. More on goose egg candling later in this article.

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How to hatch goose eggs

I’ve hatched dozens of eggs in my life. There is some advice online that is spot on and some that is not. Be careful reading forums where people are discussing egg hatching tips. It really boils down to making sure your fundamentals are rock solid and being patient – letting nature take its course. In this section of the article, we’ll go over everything (and I mean everything!) you need to know about successfully incubating goose eggs.

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The anatomy of an egg

Nature knows how to hatch an egg. By providing an egg’s basic needs, warmth and moisture, it will likely eventually hatch. However, knowing the anatomy of a goose egg is important to achieve a good hatch rate. The three parts of the egg that you should be very familiar with are the shell, yolk, and air sac. Below is a picture of the anatomy of an egg:

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You need to pay special attention to the quality of the shell, the air space at the fat end of the egg, and the yolk floating inside the egg.

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Selection of high quality goose eggs for hatching

How to choose a quality goose egg for hatching? Where to get fertile goose eggs Choosing the right eggs to hatch is the first and probably the most important step in hatching eggs. Goose eggs are not typically sold in markets, but it is advisable that you do not attempt to hatch supermarket eggs – they are unlikely to hatch. Instead, look for a local, trusted fertilized egg seller. Find a farm where you can see how the flock of geese are raised for eggs. This ensures that you get what you pay for and that the birds are treated well.

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You can also buy fertilized goose eggs online. Many hatcheries will be happy to ship you eggs, but that comes at a cost. Shipped eggs are expensive, can arrive damaged, and have a reduced hatchability due to trauma sustained during shipping. Goose eggs are also not the most common type of fertile eggs made available online.

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Once you have your eggs in hand, examine each egg carefully. Be sure to wash your hands before and after handling the eggs each time. You can darken a room and X-ray your eggs by shining a flashlight inside the egg. This will reveal cracks or bumps in the egg.

Never attempt to hatch an egg that is cracked, dirty, too big, too small, misshapen, has a double yolk, or is in any way unusual. Also note that eggs with a defective air cell should not be incubated. These eggs are unlikely to be viable and unlikely to hatch. More on identifying defective eggs later in this article.

Also pay attention to the approximate age of the eggs. 7 days after a goose egg is laid, it begins to lose fertility rapidly. It is important that your eggs are placed in the incubator within a week of being laid. After 2-3 weeks, most of your eggs are no longer viable.

Let your eggs settle

Once you’ve collected your eggs, whether from your local post office or a local farm, you should give your eggs at least 12 hours, but ideally closer to 24 hours, to set. Place them in the carton with the fat side of the egg facing up. This allows the air cell at the fat end of the egg to settle in place before hatching.

Your eggs should have enough time to reach room temperature. Putting colder eggs in an incubator can breed bacteria as the egg heats up. Always start incubating an egg at room temperature.

How to clean an incubator

An incubator that has been contaminated with a pathogen can quickly end any developing embryos in the eggs you set. You must properly clean and disinfect your incubator before laying eggs, even if it is a new incubator. This is my incubator cleaning log – so far it hasn’t misled me.

If you have used your incubator before, make sure that any shell fragments or other materials left over from previous hatches have been removed from the incubator. These small parts of the egg mass can harbor and grow bacteria. Remove all detachable components like water pans and eggshells and clean them with soap, water and a sponge. After cleaning, you can further disinfect these components by soaking them in warm water with mild bleach. Do not use chemical cleaning agents. Wipe down all components and let them dry. Now clean the bottom of the incubator by soaking it in a solution of 25% bleach and warm water. Wipe it with a soft cloth, especially when using a heater. Clean it gently but avoid getting it wet. A slightly damp cloth or brush is the ideal way to clean the heating unit.

After cleaning, leave it in a sheltered place for 12-24 hours. The incubator should be dry and smell clean before laying eggs. If it has an unpleasant smell, clean it again using the protocol above.

Setting up your incubator

Once your incubator has been sanitized, it’s time to set it up. Never start your incubator and set eggs immediately. It’s not like baking a frozen pizza in an unheated oven! You want to make sure all the basics of hatching a goose egg are spot on. Do not skimp here – it can lead to dead embryos. If your temperature is above a few degrees, your eggs will die and you will have a sad time. If it is too low, it can negatively affect development. If humidity levels are incorrect, you may have chicks that fail to develop or hatch properly. Sad times all around.

48 hours before you start incubating your goose eggs, set up the incubator and allow all key readings to stabilize. You should see the temperature and humidity stabilize for at least 12 hours before laying any eggs. As a reminder, you want these two metrics to be perfect:

Incubator temperature: 37.5°C (99.5°F)

37.5°C (99.5°F) Incubator Humidity: 55% or 84.5°F when using a wet-bulb thermometer

For the first few hours, you may notice that the indoor temperature and humidity fluctuate somewhat. That is normal. If you consistently see an incorrect reading for more than an hour, adjust your incubator to give the correct reading. Once you are sure your incubator is stable and ready for eggs, go ahead and set them up.

Turn your goose eggs

In the wild, a mother bird perched on her eggs is constantly busy twisting and turning her eggs. When incubating goose eggs or other poultry eggs, this process must be simulated by turning the eggs manually or using an automatic egg turner. Automatic egg turners are especially nice because you don’t run the risk of contaminating the inside of the incubator or the eggs themselves by touching them, and you don’t run the risk of affecting the internal temperature and humidity.

If you don’t have an automatic egg turner, it’s not the end of the world. You can turn your eggs by hand. Always wash your hands before touching your eggs! The oils and dirt on your hands can clog the pores in the shell or contaminate the eggs with bacteria. Both scenarios can kill an embryo.

If you rotate them manually, before inserting them, take a soft pencil and place an X on one side of the egg and an O on the opposite side of the egg. This will ensure that each egg has been completely turned. You will continue your daily egg turning until 4 days before hatching.

X-ray goose eggs

Candling the eggs you’ve incubated is hands down my favorite part of the process. To candling an egg, darken a room and then shine a flashlight into the large end of the egg. You can cut a hole in cardboard to focus the light, or buy an egg light.

If you X-rayed your eggs daily, which I don’t recommend, you would see a red disc on the yolk followed by veins slowly branching outward. On the 7th day of incubation you will see a network of veins around the yolk and a small red dot in the center of the whole. You may be able to see a very dark spot, which is the bird’s developing eye. You may see movement. If the egg appears alive, congratulations! Go ahead and put it back in the incubator. Below is an image of what a live egg should look like:

You can clearly see the network of veins, the embryo in the center, and even its eye. At this stage you can see the embryo rocking back and forth. But there are signs that your egg is not viable:

Of course, no development at all

Some early development but veins are decayed and no new development

A large red ring with no visible veins or embryos

Cloudy, discolored eggs

Dead eggs should be discarded immediately. If you are not sure, mark the egg with a question mark and set it a few more days. Candle again on day 14, but only this egg.

Avoid over candles. It’s so nice to see the babies developing, but the more you handle the eggs, the more likely you are to drop them or infect them with a deadly pathogen.

Monitoring of water loss during incubation

Just before lockdown, the last 4 days of incubation, I screen the eggs again to look for problems. Dead embryos should be removed. I also look at water loss during incubation. Your goose eggs lose about 14% of the liquid in the egg during development. The air cell at the fat end of the egg should grow slightly during the incubation process. If it still seems small, your humidity level might be too high. If it is very large, it may be too low. Check your hygrometer for an updated humidity reading.

Blocking the incubator

We have referred to lockdown a number of times in this article. Lockdown is the term for the last 4 days of incubation. During lockdown, remove the eggs from the egg turner and set them aside, slightly reduce the temperature of the incubator, increase the relative humidity, and leave your eggs alone. During this time, the embryo growing inside puts itself in a hatching position and jumps out. Fast facts on the lockdown:

Lockout date: Day 24

Day 24 lockdown temperature: 37.2°C (99°F)

37.2°C (99°F) Lockdown Humidity: 65% or 88°F when using a wet-bulb thermometer

Again, you don’t need to change your incubator temperature for lockdown. Once your ban has been initiated, all you have to do is wait.

During these last few days of incubation, your chicks will be pipping internally. During this process, your chick enters the egg’s air cell and begins to breathe. 2 days before your chicks hatch, they will likely chirp outwards, where they will break open the outside of the shell and begin breathing outside air.

During this time, the chick begins to absorb the remaining yolk in the egg into its body. Chicks can survive on this yolk for a day or two after hatching, then they begin to eat and drink.

The general rule of thumb is that once you see a pit in the shell, which may look like a crack or bump, your chick should hatch within a day or two. As it prepares to hatch from the egg, it slowly rotates, breaking the eggshell in a process called unzipping. This is the final phase of hatching. Once they have started to open themselves, hatching is imminent. This part can be tricky for excited chick breeders. It can be slow but don’t bother.

Note: If you get impatient and try to help a chick hatch, you could accidentally kill it. If the yolk isn’t fully absorbed and you pull the chick out of the shell, it radically increases the chances that they won’t survive.

The period of time from pip to zip can vary quite a bit. In my experience, once you see an outer core, the chick fully hatches within 24 hours. The eggs may not hatch all at once. Or they could. It really depends on a number of factors that are almost impossible to account for. I’ve had hatches where every single egg hatched at exactly the same time and some where the chicks hatched a few days late. You just have to be patient.

The most important thing is to be patient and not mess with the eggs. Hatching eggs can be exhausting when you are emotionally invested. Some eggs do not burst and hatch. Some will pip internally but will not pip externally. Some are externally piped but never unpacked. Some will unzip but will not be able to push themselves out of their shells. Some hatch completely and then die.

If you think a chick is having trouble hatching, do not intervene. It sounds callous, but if a chick can’t hatch on its own, it means it wasn’t strong enough to do so. Some goslings are also slow-moving panties. Intervening too early can kill them. Let nature take its course.

If you help a chick that cannot hatch on its own, its offspring may also tend to have difficulty hatching. This is something to consider if you intend to continue breeding this line of geese.

How long do goose eggs take to hatch?

The time it takes for a goose egg to hatch is generally around 28 to 35 days, depending on the breed. There can be a good amount of variation, with some eggs hatching earlier or later than others.

Incubate goose eggs naturally

Incubating goose eggs naturally is also a viable option for you if you have a female willing to sit. Domesticated fowl in general can thrive on natural incubation, and geese are no exception. Still, geese are generally pretty reliable egg sitters. So if you have a hen ready and you want goslings, let her do it! Your goose will lay 8-12 eggs and then begin to perch. She won’t start sitting on the eggs until she’s laid her full clutch, so be sure to keep those eggs safe. Once she has started sitting on the eggs, the chicks hatch after about 28 days. You don’t have to do anything to help, although it may be a kindness to provide a source of food and water close to the goose’s nesting site.

Common problems when hatching goose eggs

If you’ve been through the process of hatching goose eggs and haven’t gotten many goslings – or any – at all, I understand that it can be a difficult experience. You’ve probably been incubating your eggs for about a month and have little to show for it. Now let’s fix bugs. What are the most common causes of poor hatch rates?

Set old eggs

Low fertility eggs

Wrong turning

Improper handling

Uneven incubator temperature

Uneven incubator humidity

Nutritional deficiencies in the breeding animals (remember when I suggested meeting the birds?)

Contaminated incubator

We hope this guide on how to incubate goose eggs will help you hatch successfully!

Other incubation guides:

The key to successful hatching is to provide an even heat throughout the egg. In an emergency, it may be necessary to give heat to an egg without an incubator. There are five methods to take orphaned eggs in the 21 days from fertilization to hatching. Caring for an orphaned egg can be tedious and time-consuming, but the beautiful chick that arrives is worth all the hard work.