Sewing Machine Cover With Handle Slot? The 127 Detailed Answer

Make your own sewing machine cover with my free sewing pattern! This easy-to-sew sewing machine cover pattern uses cotton fabric and flexible foam stabilizer to create a cover that is as beautiful as it is functional. I show you how to make 3 different bags and then you can decide how many bags you want and where you want to place them. You can even choose no pockets at all if you want the fastest possible coverage.

Whatever your style, I hope you use my free sewing machine cover pattern to customize your sewing room to fit your personality!

This blog post has been converted to an optional PDF optimized for print. Find it here. The following blog post is completely free to read, print and sew! To print, just press CTRL + P on your computer. The $2 “Optimized for Printing” PDF download is entirely optional.

2 different sizes

I also offer free sample templates in 2 different sizes.

The templates and instructions for a full-size cover fit sewing machines up to 13 inches high, 8 inches deep, and 17 inches wide.

The free large sewing machine cover templates and instructions will fit sewing machines up to 14 inches high, 9 inches deep and 21 inches wide.

The full size cover fits my Brother CS7000X and fits most full size sewing machines.

The large case fits my Bernina B770QE and Juki TL-2010Q. Be sure to compare your sewing machine to the measurements above before you begin!

I’ll show you lots of tips and tricks to make this project beginner-friendly and fun! My materials list links to the same products I’ve used so you can get the same great results.

This is the most protective cover I have made for my sewing machines. If you’d rather have the sewing machine cover open, check out this free tutorial. I hope you enjoy these two free sewing machine cover patterns!

DIY sewing machine cover pattern details

The tutorial instructs you to start by sewing a reversible “quilt sandwich” using cotton fabric and flexible batting. A walking foot is very helpful for this step.

Then you can flip some pieces (like the pockets and the handles) and show the coordinating lining fabric. If you prefer, you can leave the entire lining fabric on the inside for a more uniform look.

As previously written, this pattern includes a main zippered pocket on the front with a very easy to install zipper, a quilted pocket on one side and a mesh pocket on the other side.

By the way, the fabrics for my two sewing machine covers come from the fabric collection Curiouser and Curiouser by Tula Pink.

I love mesh bags because they stretch to hold lots of items and you can see what’s inside!

But if you’d rather skip the mesh pocket, you have enough material to make quilted pockets for both sides of the sewing machine cover.

An opening for the handle

Some of my readers asked for an opening at the top of the cover so they could reach their sewing machine handle. To me, this defeats the purpose of a sewing machine cover because dust will get in. Also, I rarely move my sewing machines and when I do I put them in a trolley which offers a lot more protection. So I didn’t put an opening at the top of one of my covers.

I do enjoy listening to my readers though, so I wrote a separate tutorial showing how to cut the opening and tie it for a neat finish. I used scraps to demonstrate this technique. Learn how to create a bound opening here.

Easy sewing machine reference pattern

To make the regular size sewing machine cover (fits sewing machines up to 13 inches high, 8 inches deep, and 17 inches wide), you will need:

1 yard of cotton fabric for the exterior

1 yard of cotton fabric for the lining (and parts you want to turn inside out to show the other side)

1/2 yard cotton fabric for binding

a 36″ x 42″ piece of flexible foam stabilizer (such as ByAnnie Soft and Stable)*

1 purse zipper, 18 inches or longer (I used Zipper by the Yard)

a 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ piece of mesh (for the mesh pocket)

9 1/2” elastic, 5/8” wide (FOE, also for the mesh pocket)

To make the Large Sewing Machine Cover (fits sewing machines up to 14 inches high, 9 inches deep, and 21 inches wide), you will need:

1 1/2 yards of cotton fabric for the exterior

1 1/2 yards of cotton fabric for the lining (and parts you want to turn inside out to show the other side)

1/2 yard cotton fabric for binding

2 rectangles of flexible foam stabilizer, each 24″ x 42″ (e.g. ByAnnie Soft and Stable)*

1 purse zipper, 22 inches or longer (I used Zipper by the Yard)

a 10″ x 10″ piece of mesh (for the mesh pocket)

10″ elastic, 5/8″ wide (FOE, also for the mesh pocket)

You will also need:

a heavy duty sewing machine needle (100/16 recommended)

a fabric marker

a walking foot (or walking foot) for your sewing machine – optional but highly recommended

an acrylic ruler, rotary cutter and cutting mat, scissors, pins, Wonderclips and matching thread

a sewing stiletto

Make a quilt sandwich (or 2 for the large cover)

If you make the cover in regular size…

Measure your pieces of main fabric and lining fabric to ensure they are 36″ x 42″ before stitching them with the flexible foam stabilizer.

If you do the big cover…

For the large cover you need to make 2 quilted parts. Cut your main fabric and lining fabric pieces in half so you have:

2 main fabric pieces 24″ x 42″

2 pieces of lining fabric 24″ x 42″

quilting

Learn more about basting fabric with flexible foam stabilizer.

1. Smooth the main piece of fabric over the piece of flexible foam padding that is the same size. The wrong side of the cotton fabric should be against the batting. Baste the edges with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Flatten the lining fabric piece on the other side of the stabilizer (with the wrong side of the fabric against the stabilizer) and baste around the edges in the same way.

Alternatively, you can use quilt fixing spray (e.g. Spray n Bond) between each layer.

Note: This photo shows the same technique on a different project.

2. After basting the layers together, topstitch them with any quilt pattern. Straight quilting with the running foot is easy. I also like wavy lines and freely moving meanders.

Please note that if you sew the regular size cover, you only need to make one quilted piece. For the large cover you will need to make 2 quilted pieces (24″ x 42″ each).

Cut

The following pieces will be cut from your quilt sandwich. Make sure you have completed the previous step before proceeding to cut out these pieces.

If you make the cover in regular size…

Cut:

1 rectangle 17″ x 33″ (the main part of the body)

2 from the sample template (the side panels – click the link above to download the free templates)

1 rectangle 8 1/2″ x 17″ (the front zip pocket)

1 square 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ (the quilted side pocket)

2 rectangles 1 1/4″ x 8 1/2″ (the handles)

Cutting plan for the regular size cover:

If you do the big cover…

Cut:

1 rectangle 21″ x 35″ (the main part of the body)

2 from the sample template (the side panels – click the link above to download the free templates)

1 rectangle 9″ x 21″ (the front zip pocket)

1 square 9″ x 9″ (the quilted side pocket)

2 rectangles 1 1/4″ x 9″ (the handles)

Sectional drawing for the large cover:

Ideas:

If you’re looking to add a bound handle opening to your cover, do so now.

With careful cutting you will have enough material to cut 2 quilted side pockets (instead of 1 quilted side pocket and 1 mesh side pocket).

If you’re willing to skip the quilted side pockets, you’ll have enough material to make 2 large zippered pockets (one on the front and one on the back).

Use leftover quilted material to make designer zippered bags with my free video course.

Use a long basting stitch to sew all edges of the quilted pieces to “seal” the edges and prevent separation. Staple about 1/8 inch from the edge.

How to cut and join the binding strips…

The instructions below show how to cut your binding for the fewest number of connections and the most efficient use of your fabric.

1. You will need bias binding to bind the curved side edges of the cover. The remaining edges are straight, eliminating the need for bias binding.

Use the 45 degree square on your ruler to cut 3 strips, 2 1/4 inches wide, diagonally from the 1/2 yard piece of binder fabric. Place these 3 strips as far to the right side of your fabric as possible so your strips are as long as possible, while still leaving as much fabric on the wrong side as possible.

Set aside the leftover triangle of fabric in the top right corner. You can trim from this if one of your pieces isn’t long enough (see below).

Join the three binding strips at the ends with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Press open the seams.

Measure the length of the bias binding after sewing the three pieces together. If you are making the regular size envelope, you will need at least 66 inches of bias binding. If you are making the large cover, you will need at least 70 inches of bias binding. If this strip isn’t long enough, cut another 2 1/4 inch wide strip from the bias edge of the leftover triangle and attach it to your long bias strip.

Cut the long bias strip in half to get 2 pieces (each at least 33 inches long for the regular cover or at least 35 inches long for the large cover).

Fold each binding strip in half lengthwise and press. Set these pieces aside. They will later be used to bind the curved pages.

2. The rest of our binding will be a straight cut binding.

From the bottom edge of the remaining large piece of fabric, cut 2 strips that are 2 1/4 inches wide.

Join the two strips at the ends with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Press open the seams.

Measure the length of the strip after sewing the two pieces together. If you are making the regular size cover, you will need a binding of at least 53 inches. If you are making the large cover, you will need a binding of at least 62 inches. If this strip isn’t long enough, cut another 2 1/4 inch wide strip from the straight edge of the leftover triangle and attach it to your long strip.

Halve the binding strip lengthwise and press on. Put it aside. It is used to bind the bottom edge of the envelope.

3. From the remaining binder cut out:

For the regular size cover…

2 strips 2″ x 18″ to tie the zip pocket

1 strip 2″ x 9″ for the quilted side pocket

4 strips 2″ x 9″ for tying the handles

For the large format coverage…

2 strips 2″ x 22″ to tie the zip pocket

1 strip 2″ x 9 1/2″ for the quilted side pocket

4 strips 2″ x 9 1/2″ for tying the handles

Fold each binding strip in half lengthwise and press. I suggest keeping your tie strips along with the quilted pieces they will attach to to help you stay organized.

Make the quilted side pocket

1. Lay the square side bag piece on your workspace with the lining side up (or the side you want to be the inside of the bag). Place the appropriate binding strip (2″ x 9″ or 2″ x 9 1/2″) on top with the raw edges aligned with the top edge of the bag. Use Wonderclips to keep the layers in place.

Pin the binding along the top edge with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

2. Turn the binding to the other side of the pocket. Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Cut off the excess binding ends.

3. Place the quilted bag on one of the side panels, lining up the bottom edges. Use pins or clips to secure the bag.

Staple around the sides and bottom edges 1/8 inch from the edge.

Make the big zip bag

For this step you will need the large rectangular pocket piece, the two matching tie strips and the zipper. If using a zipper by the yard, place your slider on the zipper and cut a piece of zipper 1 inch wider than the pocket piece. Sew over the ends of the zipper to prevent the zipper puller from accidentally detaching.

1. Lay the large bag piece on your workspace with the lining side up (or the side you want to be the inside of the bag). Place a matching (2″ x 18″ or 2″ x 22″) binding strip on top, with the raw edges aligned with the top edge of the bag. Use Wonderclips to keep the layers in place.

Sew the binding to the top edge with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Flip the binding to the other side of the pocket. Topstitch close to the folded edge.

2. Pin or clip the remaining tie strip (which is the same length as the zipper) against the left side of the zipper, with the raw edges aligned with the top edge of the zipper.

Attach a zipper foot to your sewing machine. Sew the tie strip to the wrong side of the zipper, leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Fold the binding to the right side of the zipper. Topstitch close to the folded edge.

3. Place the zipper (with the bound top edge) on your work surface. Place the long bag on top and center it on the zipper (which is 1 inch wider than the bag to give you some slack).

Align the bound edge of the bag so that it is the same distance from the zipper teeth as the binding at the top edge of the zipper.

Use lots of pins to pin the pocket piece to the zipper.

4. Stitch along the top edge of the binding on the bag and attach the bag to the zipper.

5. Place the large main body piece. on your workspace vertically (right side up). Place the zippered pocket piece on top and align the bottom edge of the pocket with one of the short ends of the body piece.

Use pins or staples to join the cut edges together. Then use lots of pins to secure the bound edge of the zipper to the body part.

6. Stitch along the top edge of the zipper tie to secure it to the body piece.

Then baste around the 3 raw edges of the bag to join all the layers 1/8 inch from the edge.

Cut off the ends of the zipper with the body part as well. Sew across the ends of the zipper again (1/8 inch from the ends) to prevent the zipper puller from coming loose.

Make and attach the mesh bag

The mesh pocket is optional (like all pockets). Because cutting mesh can be slippery, mesh pieces are 1 inch larger than required. You will cut away the extra after the bag is attached.

1. Wrap the folded elastic (FOE) around the top edge of the square piece of mesh. Fasten it with Wonderclips.

Sew along the edge of the folded elastic, stretching the elastic very slightly as you sew.

Tip: If you can, move your sewing machine needle to the right so the elastic is over one of the feed dogs and moves smoothly as you sew.

Watch on YouTube how I demonstrate how to sew a fold over an elastic to a mesh bag on YouTube.

2. Place the mesh pocket over the bottom portion of the remaining side panel. Allow the extra mesh to overlap the pocket as needed. Secure with Wonderclips or pins.

Sew the sides and bottom edge of the mesh pocket to the side panel, sewing 1/8 inch from the edges of the panel.

Cut the extra mesh and elastic along the edges of the side panel as well.

Do the side handles

1. Use the four remaining tie strips to tie the long edges on both grips. Follow the same tying technique as for the bag parts.

2. Tuck or attach the handles to the side panels 2 1/2 inches below the top edge. Pin the sides of the handles 1/8 inch from the raw edges.

Sew the sewing machine cover together

1. Use the fabric marker to mark the center of each side panel at the top.

2. Fold the main body piece together with the short ends to help you find the center. Mark the center of the body part on both (long) sides.

3. Pin or clip a wrong-sided side panel to the body:

First, align the center mark on the side panel with a center mark on the long edge of the body piece. Pin or clip the mids together.

Then pin or clip the corners of the side panel to the corners of the body part.

Place pins or staples along the straight edges.

Use scissors to make 1/4 inch snips in the straight edge of the body part where it needs to curve around the side panel. These cuts should be 1/4″ – 1/2″ apart.

Use as many Wonderclips or pins as needed to hold the corner in place.

4. Sew the side piece to the body piece with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Go slowly and remove the clips or pins as you approach them.

Use the sewing stylet to pin the edges together, especially around the curves.

Repeat these steps to attach the remaining side panel in the same manner.

Tie the curved edges

The two binding strips cut at an angle were saved for binding the curved side edges. You will use them now.

1. Pin or clip a folded and pressed bias cut strip around the side edge with the cut edges aligned. You should have some extra bias tape left over.

2. Sew the bias strip to the side of the cover using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. You may need to adjust it when you remove the clips so it sews smoothly to the cover.

3. Fold the binding over and against the main body of the cover. Topstitch close to the crease. Cut off the extra bias tape.

Repeat to bind the other curved side edge with the remaining bias cut strip that was folded and pressed.

Tie the bottom edge

Tip: Before you sew the binding to the bottom edge, use a hammer to make it easier to sew over the previously bound seams. Just hit them 4-5 times. Believe me, it works!

I found it easiest when I folded the seams flat without letting them fold to one side or the other. Then the new binding didn’t have to go over a huge bump (just a small bump!) around the bottom edge.

1. Release about 4 inches of binding and begin to sew the binding at the bottom edge of the cover on the inside (lining). I thought it best to start sewing the binding at the back edge.

You can turn the cover inside out before sewing the binding to the bottom edge, but I didn’t find it necessary.

Sew the binding all the way around until you are about 8-10 inches from where you started sewing. Remove the cover from your sewing machine.

2. Bring the ends of the tie together and fold them back. Fold the folds where the tie ends meet.

Cut away the extra binding 1/4 inch behind each folded crease.

3. Gather the ends of the binding and sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

4. Press the seam open with your finger. Fold the binding as before and finish sewing along the inside edge of the cover.

5. Turn the binding over to the front (right side) of the cover. Topstitch close to the crease.

Fall in love with your new sewing machine cover!

I would love to see the beautiful sewing machine covers you make using my free pattern! Please post a photo on Instagram and tag me @sewcanshe so I can take a look!

xoxo,

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Hello,

Welcome to Crafty Sewing Sew. A craft and sewing blog by Helen Harrison.

I started this blog to share what I’ve learned and learned about sewing, machines and everything in between.

I started my passion for sewing and crafts when I was a little girl and progressed to a degree in historical and performance costume.

Now I spend my time finding the best machines, gadgets, and new projects to try.

You may not have specifically thought of building an air-conditioned sewing machine, but even indoors there are things you can do to keep your machine in tip-top condition.

A sewing machine is just that… a machine. It contains internal components that can rust, crack, and shrink/expand due to changes in temperature and humidity. Just like your fabrics and other softgoods materials should be protected from moisture and UV rays. Therefore, your sewing machine should be carefully stored to protect it from elements that can damage its mechanisms over time.

sewing machine service

The question we get asked more than any other about sewing machine maintenance is, “How often should I have my machine serviced?” That’s not as easy an answer as you might think. Of course we would be happy if everyone would bring their sewing machine to us for service every six months (for a fee, of course!), but that is simply not the case. How often you need service depends on a number of factors:

How often do you use your sewing machine?

Simply put, if you use your machine frequently (several times a week), lint will build up, the lubricants used to keep your machine running smoothly, and wear out the parts of your machine that may need replacing. In that case, it’s probably a good idea to have your machine serviced once a year.

If you use your machine infrequently (with breaks of months or years between uses) you run the risk of the lubricants congealing and the machine seizing. Next time you plan to use the machine, it might not be a bad idea to have it serviced.

What do you use your machine for?

If you use your machine for patchwork quilting or sewing heavy fabrics; Your machine may need more frequent maintenance due to lint buildup and possible voltage and timing issues.

Do you ever service your machine – if you’re someone who keeps your machine clean, changes your needle frequently, lubricates it when needed, and keeps it in a warm, dry place, you can wait longer between services. Be careful though, keeping your machine clean doesn’t mean it doesn’t need maintenance at all. Good service goes beyond cleaning the machine, read our post on what to expect from a sewing machine service here.

How old is your machine?

The older your machine is, the more maintenance it may need. This may sound obvious, but it’s true. Older machines need more lubrication to run well, they have parts that wear out with time and use. I have had direct experience with a number of specific models that wear out faster than others and I see many of them with serious problems that regular maintenance would have helped.

Listen to your machine

This is probably the most important point of all. Learn how your sewing machine sounds and how it handles. If it starts to sound “clunky” or squeaky, if the hand wheel feels tighter when you turn it, if you’re having trouble with your tension – it’s time for a service. If you intend not to use the machine for a long time – have it serviced, it will make it easier when you use the machine again.